Shows / The Power Company Climbing Podcast
The Power Company Climbing Podcast
A Climber’s Podcast | In-depth conversations with climbers, coaches, and experts about how to become better climbers.
Episodes
The Power Company Climbing PodcastEXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastTAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastBUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastBOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastREWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into…
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EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red…
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EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastFOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastHubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his…
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Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud…
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Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
The year is 1991. No woman has ever climbed 5.14. One French superstar says that no woman ever will. But Lynn Hill didn’t listen... And years later, Katie…
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TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time. Taped Tips is presented by Power Company…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastINTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastREWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastWHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
You know what highpointing is, and definitely redpointing, but what about lowpointing? And for those of you who know what we’re talking about, do you actually…
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REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
Five years ago this week, Ravioli Biceps walked into the gym, did his usual detailed warmup, and then set his camera up pointed at the Moonboard. It had only…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastTAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
There’s more information out there than ever. When I first started Power Company Climbing, there were very few training blogs, no training podcasts for…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? What if it IS a kneebar boulder? Is it good for training? We're conflicted. And how does Chris Sharma feel…
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TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
Training is training is training. You’ve done your homework, you know how to periodize a training plan, you understand set and rep schemes and RPE and…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
For most climbers, a 100-foot ground fall would be the end of their lives, or at the very least, the end of their climbing careers. Not so for Craig DeMartino…
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The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
In this episode, which comes to us from The Struggle Climbing Show podcast, Kris sat down with host Ryan Devlin to talk tactics. Kris took a look at episodes…
The Power Company Climbing PodcastREMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
As climbers, we fail a lot. And yet, we don’t even like to hear the word. Our ability to return to unsent projects time after time, season after season, along…
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REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
Today we REWIND to this classic episode with living-legend and climbing pioneer Paul Piana himself, 35 years after he and Todd Skinner completed their historic…
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BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift
Whether you are a pro climber, small business owner, coach, writer, filmmaker or any other entrepreneur in the climbing industry, Taylor Swift has something to…
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WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni
Looking to spend your summer sport climbing on gently overhanging crimps on beautiful limestone cliffs? Look no further than Ten Sleep, a picturesque canyon…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training
We begin this REWIND episode a little differently, with a call to Jonathan Siegrist while he was recently in Catalunya, Spain, to find out if he knew why we're…
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Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers
When it comes to skincare in the climbing world, Rhino Skin Solutions is the one name you need to know. They’ve got a complete line of products to help you…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)
In an ideal world, grades would be objective and we’d have some universal formula for how they’re decided. But we don't live in an ideal world. In this bonus…
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Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)
In this, the second of two episodes with seasoned big wall climber Josie McKee, she and Kris sit down to discuss how her recent trip to Yosemite turned out –…
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Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)
Josie McKee has been climbing for more than 20 years, racking up speed records, FA’s, and a huge wealth of experience and knowledge in that time. She’s been up…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training
13 years ago this month, British climbing legend Stevie Haston climbed 14d, for the second time that year, at the youthful age of 52. Even more impressive is…
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BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)
It's all the rage. Watching Will Bosi and Aiden Roberts work on the Burden of Dreams replica is fun, but is it valuable for the rest of us? This episode is the…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)
Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how. It’s one of the hardest to cultivate components of high…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands
McKenzie Long started climbing like many of us did, indoors, in a midwestern climbing gym, far from the vast landscapes and towering rock formations of the…
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BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay
With the seemingly endless amount of information available online these days, and the newest training trends popping up in reel after reel on our feeds, it can…
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WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch
Looking for a sport climbing destination where you can climb comfortably from mid-Spring through mid-Fall? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high…
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REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing
Nearly 15 years ago, with the FA of her route Meltdown, Beth Rodden gave us one of the hardest crack lines in Yosemite – if not the world – helping to solidify…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West
If you already spend 4 or 5 days a week climbing for your job as a setter, is it a good idea – or even just a feasible one – to take on a training program? How…
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Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership
Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator. She’s been…
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REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership
In January 2015, 7 years ago this week, I, along with countless others including many non-climbers, was glued to a saga happening on the side of El Cap. Tommy…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
REMIX | PROCESS (featuring Alex Megos, Sam Elias, Arno Ilgner and Trevor Ragan)
“It's all about the process.” Sure, the journey is important, but so is the destination. It's not all about the journey. It’s about mapping out the journey…
- The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Nominations for Most Inspiring Ascents and What’s New for 2023
Nominate the most inspiring ascents of 2022 at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ascent Support the podcast and get bonus episodes at…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Surviving the Modern Mega Climbing Gym
Kris and Nate sit down to discuss some of the perks and pitfalls of climbing in today’s modern mega gyms, and give some tips on how to deal with them. They’ll…
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BUILT OUTDOORS | Amy Skinner and Joan Chase of Wild Iris Mountain Sports
Today we're listening to the first episode of Built Outdoors, a new show Kris is hosting, with Amy Skinner and Joan Chase from the iconic gear shop, Wild Iris…
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Caitlin Holmes | Body Composition for Climbers
Certified Nutrition Specialist and co-host of The Average Climber Podcast, Caitlin Holmes, sits down with Kris to discuss body composition, which is often…
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Steven Jeffery | Climbing in the Disinformation Age
Back in September, at the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery, about how climbing has…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
Kris and fellow Power Company coach, Taylor Fragomeni, sit down and discuss how you can make the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing easier on yourself…
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Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
In today’s episode, Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing. They talk about Roy’s newest holds from Trango, the Khans and the…
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Eric Hörst | Growing Older, Stronger, Better
In today’s episode, Kris sits down to catch up with fellow climbing coach, Eric Hörst. They chat about how some big life shifts – Eric’s retirement, the…
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BREAKING BETA | Can We Measure Energy System Contribution to Climbing?
In this episode, from our other podcast, Breaking Beta, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing…