Latest / The History of Portugal: The Small Nation That Built a Global Empire — Fexingo History / The Fortress of Diu: Portugal's Indian Ocean Stronghold
Transcript
- Lucas: So, we've talked a lot about the Portuguese maritime empire, the carreiras, the cartaz system, the battles at sea. But I want to look at something a little more permanent, the Fortress of Diu. It's this massive stone structure that still stands on the coast of Gujarat, and for over four centuries it was the anchor of Portuguese power in the Indian Ocean. Luna: I've seen pictures of it. It's this imposing bastion right on the water. How did the Portuguese get permission to build it? Lucas: Well, it wasn't straightforward. The Portuguese had already been involved in Diu since the early 1500s, but they didn't control it directly. Then, in 1535, the Sultan of Gujarat, Bahadur Shah, made a deal with the Portuguese governor Nuno da Cunha. He was threatened by the Mughal emperor Humayun, and he wanted Portuguese help. In exchange, he allowed them to build a fortress in Diu and essentially take over the city's defenses. Lucas: The Portuguese didn't waste any time. They started construction immediately, and within a few years the fortress was a formidable structure. It had high walls, bastions, and a deep moat that connected to the sea, so it could be supplied by boat even under siege. But the deal was fragile. Bahadur Shah soon regretted it, and when he tried to kick the Portuguese out, they killed him in a skirmish in 1537. That left the Portuguese in full control of Diu, but also made them enemies in the region. Luna: That's a pretty dramatic start. So how did the Ottomans respond? Lucas: The Ottomans saw Portugal's growing presence in the Indian Ocean as a direct challenge to their own interests, especially after they took over Egypt and the Red Sea trade. They had already clashed with the Portuguese in places like Aden and Diu in earlier campaigns. But the real test came in 1546, when a large Ottoman fleet, backed by the Sultan of Gujarat's forces, arrived to retake Diu. This was the famous Siege of Diu. Lucas: The Ottoman commander was Suleiman Pasha, and the local Gujarat forces were led by Khwaja Safar, who had been a key figure in the region. They had thousands of troops, heavy artillery, and they were determined to crush the Portuguese. Inside the fortress, the Portuguese captain was João de Mascarenhas, a seasoned veteran. He had a garrison of maybe six hundred men, a mix of Portuguese soldiers and local mercenaries. Luna: Six hundred against thousands? That seems impossible. Lucas: It was a brutal siege that lasted about six months. The Ottomans bombarded the walls, tried to mine underneath them, and launched repeated assaults. But Mascarenhas was a brilliant leader. He kept morale high, organized the defense cleverly, and made clever use of the fortress's design. The walls were angled to deflect cannonballs, and the bastions allowed for crossfire. Plus, the Portuguese still controlled the sea, so they could receive supplies and reinforcements by ship. Lucas: The turning point came when a relief fleet from Goa arrived, led by the new governor, João de Castro. They broke the Ottoman blockade and delivered fresh troops and supplies. The siege collapsed, and the Ottoman-Gujarati forces retreated in disarray. The victory was decisive, and it cemented Portuguese control over Diu for good. The city became the capital of the Portuguese provinces in the north, and the fortress was never seriously threatened again. Luna: Was Diu mainly a military base, or did it become a thriving commercial hub too? Lucas: It became both. Diu had long been a major trading port, especially for spices, textiles, and horses. The Portuguese took advantage of that. They maintained a customs house and collected duties on all goods passing through. The horse trade was particularly lucrative—they imported Persian and Arabian horses from Hormuz and sold them to the Indian states, who needed them for their cavalry. Diu was also a stopover on the Carreira da Índia, the sea route between Lisbon and Goa, so it saw a constant flow of ships and people. Lucas: But Diu wasn't just about commerce. It was a symbol of Portuguese power. The fortress itself was an architectural marvel, designed by Italian military engineers in the modern bastion style. It had multiple layers of defense, a complex system of gates and ramps, and even a hidden exit to the sea. It was practically impregnable, and that's why the Portuguese held it for over four hundred years, even after their empire declined. Luna: So the Portuguese held Diu until they left India in 1961, right? Lucas: Exactly. Diu, along with Goa and Daman, remained under Portuguese control until 1961, when Indian forces took over by force. But even after that, the fortress continued to be used, and today it's a UNESCO World Heritage site. Walking through it, you can still see the Portuguese inscriptions, the cannons, and the chapel inside. It's a tangible link to that whole era of Indian Ocean history. Luna: It's amazing that a single fortress could have such an impact on a whole region. Lucas: It really is. And that's what I find so fascinating about these Portuguese fortresses—they were like floating islands of European power, but they were also deeply interconnected with the local world. Diu wasn't just a Portuguese enclave; it was a melting pot where Portuguese, Gujarati, Ottoman, and many other cultures interacted. You can see that in the architecture, the cuisine, even the language. Luna: That makes me want to visit it someday. But it also makes me think about the cost of all this power. How much violence and suffering was involved? Lucas: That's an important question. The Portuguese Empire was driven by a mix of trade, religion, and military force. They were not shy about using violence to achieve their goals. The siege of Diu was just one example, but there were many other campaigns, both on the coast and inland. They also imposed the cartaz system, which forced local ships to buy passes, and they attacked anyone who resisted. So while we can admire the engineering and the strategic brilliance, we also have to remember the human cost. Lucas: And that human cost extended beyond the battlefield. The Portuguese were known for their brutal treatment of prisoners, and they often enslaved captured enemies. They also destroyed ships and coastal towns, disrupting local economies. It's a complicated legacy, to say the least. Luna: It's sobering to think about. But it also shows how history is never just one thing—it's full of contradictions. Lucas: Absolutely. And that's what makes it so interesting to dig into. You know, it's because of listeners like you that we can keep having these deep conversations. If you've been enjoying the show, a couple of dollars a month over at buy me a coffee dot com slash fexingo really helps keep it going. It means we can keep making episodes like this, and we really appreciate it. Luna: Yeah, every little bit counts. Now, back to Diu—what happened to the fortress after the Portuguese left? Lucas: After 1961, the fortress was used by the Indian military for a while, but later it was opened to the public as a historical site. It's been well preserved, and you can climb up to the ramparts and look out over the Arabian Sea, imagining the ships coming in from Lisbon or Goa. It's a bit eerie, knowing how much history happened right there. Luna: I can imagine. It must be a powerful experience. Lucas: It is. And it's a reminder that history is not just in books—it's in the stones and the sea. The fortress of Diu is a testament to the ambitions of a small European nation, but also to the resilience of the people who lived there. It's a place where the stories of many worlds collide. Luna: That's a beautiful way to put it. I think we've only scratched the surface, but it's given me a lot to think about. Lucas: There's always more to explore. Next time, maybe we'll look at the other side of the story—the people who resisted the Portuguese, like the Ottoman admiral Suleiman Pasha, or the Gujarati naval chief Khwaja Safar. Their perspective is just as important. Luna: That would be a great episode. I'm curious to hear about the resistance and the complexity of the region. Lucas: Then we'll save that for another day. For now, I think we've given a good picture of the Fortress of Diu and its role in the Portuguese empire. Thanks for listening.