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13 - Mohawk Valley by W. Max Reid · Mohawk Valley

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  Speaker 1: Chapter twelve of the Mohawk Valley. This LibriVox recording is
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  Speaker 1: in the public domain. Recording by Roger Molin. The Mohawk Valley,
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  Speaker 1: Its Legends and its History by W. Max Reid, Chapter twelve, Johnstown,
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  Speaker 1: New York. Travelers on the New York Central Railroad probably
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  Speaker 1: are familiar with a small village called Fonda, situated on
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  Speaker 1: the Mohawk River, about forty miles from Albany, at the
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  Speaker 1: mouth of the Cayadutta Creek. If their destination is Johnstown,
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  Speaker 1: they will change cars at this place and take passage
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  Speaker 1: on the FJ and g R R or an electric car.
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  Speaker 1: If you stroll up the main street of Fonda, a
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  Speaker 1: few rods west of the station, you will come to
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  Speaker 1: a stream flowing from the north and bearing an Indian name, Cayadutta.
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  Speaker 1: A century and a half a half ago, the banks
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  Speaker 1: of this stream were in all their primitive beauty and wildness,
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  Speaker 1: and in earlier times had been chosen by the Agniers
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  Speaker 1: Mohawks for the sites of two of their villages, one
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  Speaker 1: on the high ground, forming its western bank and bearing
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  Speaker 1: the name of Cahaniaga, the other about three miles to
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  Speaker 1: the north. Lately, discovered and yet unnamed. If you wander
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  Speaker 1: still farther up this creek, you will find a succession
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  Speaker 1: of rapids, now marked with mill sites, and in a
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  Speaker 1: bowl shaped valley four miles from the Mohawk River, a
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  Speaker 1: flourishing village named in seventeen seventy Johnstown. This section was
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  Speaker 1: originally included in the Kingsboro Patent, as it was called,
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  Speaker 1: granted to Errant Stephens and others June twenty third, seventeen
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  Speaker 1: fifty three, and comprised twenty thousand acres of land. This
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  Speaker 1: land came in to possession of Sir William Johnson, but
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  Speaker 1: at what date I have been unable to find any record.
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  Speaker 1: Probably he was one of the others mentioned in the patent,
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  Speaker 1: as we know that he had leased or sold land
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  Speaker 1: to over a hundred families who had settled in that
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  Speaker 1: locality before he built Johnson Hall in seventeen sixty three.
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  Speaker 1: Previous to the granting of the Kingsborough Patent, William Johnson
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  Speaker 1: was in possession of a few thousand acres along the
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  Speaker 1: north bank of the Mohawk west of Amsterdam, but the
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  Speaker 1: notorious Caiadoroscerius patent shut him off on the east and
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  Speaker 1: the Butler and Cognawaga patents on the west and north,
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  Speaker 1: obliging him to take up lands north of them in
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  Speaker 1: order to secure a large tract. The Kingsland Grant of
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  Speaker 1: land was given to Sir William by the Crown after
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  Speaker 1: he was made baronet and subsequent to the Battle of
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  Speaker 1: Lake George in seventeen fifty five. Among those to whom
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  Speaker 1: he leased land with the supposed purpose of establishing a
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  Speaker 1: baronial estate were doctor William Adams, Gilbert Tice, innkeeper, Peter
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  Speaker 1: Young Miller, William Phillips wagon maker, James Davis Hatter, Peter
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  Speaker 1: Yost Tanner, Adrian Van Sickler, Major John Littell, and Zephaniah Bachelor.
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  Speaker 1: He named the place Johnstown, built a court house, jail, church, taverns,
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  Speaker 1: and numerous dwellings for his tenants. It would seem as
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  Speaker 1: though his baronial mansion, as Johnson Hall is sometimes called,
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  Speaker 1: must have been considered a temporary structure, being constructed of wood,
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  Speaker 1: although after nearly a century and a half it is
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  Speaker 1: in an excellent state of preservation. Because his other and
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  Speaker 1: older home, Fort Johnson, and the home of his daughter
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  Speaker 1: guy Park, both on the Mohawk, were well built of stone,
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  Speaker 1: with interiors much better finished than Johnson Hall. The twenty
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  Speaker 1: fifth of March eighteen ninety eight was a typical spring day,
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  Speaker 1: although the weather was not such as we are in
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  Speaker 1: the habit of having in the Mohawk Valley in that
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  Speaker 1: windy month. However, it was pleasant enough to induce me
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  Speaker 1: to take a trip to Johnson Hall, Johnstown. Perhaps I
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  Speaker 1: was in a mood to dream of the past, and
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  Speaker 1: on that account the route to the old historic village
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  Speaker 1: seemed to be void of all modern improvements, and I
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  Speaker 1: was being transported through forests and lonely settlements. In passing
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  Speaker 1: Guy Park, I saw the rough stone walls of the
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  Speaker 1: original building, surrounded by forests and rude instruments of husbandry.
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  Speaker 1: Fort Johnson impressed me with its antiquity without any stretch
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  Speaker 1: of imagination. A short distance above the mind record, the
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  Speaker 1: palisaded Fort Hunter, with the stone walls of Queen Anne's
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  Speaker 1: Chapel in its center, and I could see the group
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  Speaker 1: of dirty Indians crowding its wall and accepting a religion
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  Speaker 1: they knew nothing and cared nothing about. Looking across the
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  Speaker 1: Skahari and over the hills to the west, I see
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  Speaker 1: the form of Father Jogue with his long black robe
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  Speaker 1: tied around the waist, with a rope and his rosary
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  Speaker 1: hanging at his side, shrinking from warrior and squaw, as
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  Speaker 1: though expecting some new cruelty or indignity. A little farther
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  Speaker 1: to the west, on the north side, I see the
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  Speaker 1: new village of Kanyega Kannawaga, with its defensive palisades swarming
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  Speaker 1: with warriors defending their homes against hundreds of savage Mohegans,
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  Speaker 1: with the great Massachusetts e chem Chikatabut at their head.
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  Speaker 1: And in the midst of the Mohawks, I see the
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  Speaker 1: form of Takaquita and the Jesuit father de Lamberville. Leaving Fonda,
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  Speaker 1: I am recalled to the nineteenth century by asking a
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  Speaker 1: trainman if our train passed the old Indian side of Conyega,
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  Speaker 1: and he answered that he had never heard of it.
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  Speaker 1: I put the same question to the conductor, and he
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  Speaker 1: said he did not know. Upon arriving at Johnstown, I
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  Speaker 1: stepped up to a man with a badge on his
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  Speaker 1: cap and said, can you tell me what road to
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  Speaker 1: take to get to Johnson Hall? Johnson Hall, He replied,
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  Speaker 1: I never heard of it. I mean, said I The
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  Speaker 1: old family mansion of Sir William Johnson, the place where
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  Speaker 1: he formerly lived. Oh, said he, you mean Sir William
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  Speaker 1: Johnson's hotel. It is right, But I was around the
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  Speaker 1: corner interviewing someone else by that time and did not
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  Speaker 1: hear what direction to take to reach the site William
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  Speaker 1: Johnson Hotel. After receiving some intelligent instruction from a man
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  Speaker 1: in a blue uniform, I started on my quest for
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  Speaker 1: Johnson Hall, which is situated about one mile northwest of
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  Speaker 1: the railroad depot. A bridge spans the Cayadutta Creek a
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  Speaker 1: short distance from the railroad, the waters of which were
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  Speaker 1: running red, as if in commemoration of the blood of
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  Speaker 1: patriots shed by Sir John Johnson, Brandt and Butler in
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  Speaker 1: their frequent raids on the settlements in the valley of
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  Speaker 1: the Mohawk. Passing by the numerous handsome cottages that line
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  Speaker 1: both sides of the street, I approached a fork in
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  Speaker 1: the road and on a tree observed a board which,
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  Speaker 1: at a distance I supposed to contain the necessary direction
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  Speaker 1: to reach Johnson Hall. Approaching nearer, the information I received
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  Speaker 1: was this stove wood a dollar seventy five per cord,
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  Speaker 1: not obtaining the information desired. I took the road to
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  Speaker 1: the right and soon saw the building in the distance.
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  Speaker 1: Although the sun was shining brightly and the atmosphere gave
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  Speaker 1: evidence that spring was here, the bare trees and dreary
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  Speaker 1: aspect of fields made gray with the frosts of winter,
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  Speaker 1: and the occasional patches of dirty white snow on the
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  Speaker 1: hill slopes reminded me of the winter of our discontent,
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  Speaker 1: from which we were just emerging. In the distance to
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  Speaker 1: the right, the Cayadutta winds its slow length along to
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  Speaker 1: turn the wheels in the distant village and near its
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  Speaker 1: left bank, partly hidden by stately oaks and maples, with
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  Speaker 1: lilac and evergreen trees scattered. Here and there stands the
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  Speaker 1: historic mansion Johnson Hall, modernized by coupola bay windows, ornamental porch,
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  Speaker 1: and roof of variegated slate. I must confess to a
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  Speaker 1: feeling of disappointment. Although the view from the standpoint of
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  Speaker 1: the nineteenth century is very pretty. Passing up a broad
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  Speaker 1: walk about two hundred feet long from the entrance to
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  Speaker 1: this small park lined with large maples, we reach the building.
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  Speaker 1: It is true that each maple has been pierced with
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  Speaker 1: a patent spile, from which drop by drop, the colorless
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  Speaker 1: sap is flowing into small tin pails. But when I
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  Speaker 1: raise my eyes and see the old stone fort to
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  Speaker 1: the left and back of the building, I recall the
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  Speaker 1: object of my errand and realize that I am at
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  Speaker 1: one of the homes of Sir William Johnson. The house
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  Speaker 1: and adjoining land belong to missus John E. Wells, and
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  Speaker 1: the occupants are very courteous to strangers who call to
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  Speaker 1: see the house. The present main entrance was formerly the
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  Speaker 1: rear of the house and faces nearly southward east. Entering,
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  Speaker 1: I am ushered at once into a broad hall that
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  Speaker 1: extends the full depth of the house, at the end
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  Speaker 1: of which is a broad stairway with spacious landings that
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  Speaker 1: leads to a similar large hall. Above. To the left
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  Speaker 1: of the hall as you enter, is a large room
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  Speaker 1: about eighteen by thirty eight feet, with an ornamental wood
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  Speaker 1: cornice extending around the room, the side walls having paneled
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  Speaker 1: wainscoating about four feet high. The hall is about fifteen
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  Speaker 1: feet wide and thirty eight feet deep, and to the
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  Speaker 1: right are two rooms about eighteen feet square, whose ceilings
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  Speaker 1: are also adorned with handsome wood cornice. Above the space
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  Speaker 1: is divided into four rooms and a wide hall to
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  Speaker 1: correspond to the hall below. All of these rooms are
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  Speaker 1: finished with paneled wainscoating and shallow windows without weights. The
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  Speaker 1: rooms in the second story is pointed out as the
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  Speaker 1: council room of Sir William, and another as the place
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  Speaker 1: where Saint Patrick Masonic Lodge was organized and its meetings
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  Speaker 1: held for a number of years. The basement is said
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  Speaker 1: to have been used as a stable, but is now
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  Speaker 1: fitted up with kitchen, dining room, etc. The building is
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  Speaker 1: two stories high and built of wood, the clapboards being
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  Speaker 1: so arranged as to represent blocks of stone. At present,
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  Speaker 1: the interior has the appearance of a house of the
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  Speaker 1: present day, with its paneled work grained to represent oak,
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  Speaker 1: and the handsome belongings of a well to do family
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  Speaker 1: of refined taste. But it would take quite a stretch
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  Speaker 1: of imagination to people it again. With Molly Brandt and
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  Speaker 1: her half caste children and her brother Joseph Brandt in
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  Speaker 1: full war paint and feathers passing down from the council
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  Speaker 1: room above, were at night for the defacement of the
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  Speaker 1: mahogany banister and rail at every step taken by the
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  Speaker 1: chief down the stairs that he was never again to ascend.
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  Speaker 1: Whether it was done in anger or not, we do
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  Speaker 1: not know, but the marks left by the hatchet seemed
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  Speaker 1: to have been the work of a mischievous boy rather
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  Speaker 1: than a savage. Outside, and a little in advance of
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  Speaker 1: the original front stands one of the two small forts
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  Speaker 1: that formerly stood on each side of the building. It
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  Speaker 1: is said that the two forts were connected with the
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  Speaker 1: basement of the building by an underground passage, all evidence
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  Speaker 1: of which has been destroyed, except the opening from the basement,
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  Speaker 1: which has been closed with masonry. Johnstown may well feel
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  Speaker 1: proud of Johnson Hall, Saint John's Church, the courthouse and jail,
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  Speaker 1: and the associations connected with Sir William Johnson, But the
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  Speaker 1: old stone buildings erected by him on the banks of
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  Speaker 1: the Mohawk twenty years earlier, Fort Johnson and Guy Park
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  Speaker 1: bear an impress of antiquity that the latter buildings do
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  Speaker 1: not possess. Saint John's Episcopal Church is the third edifice
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  Speaker 1: of that name built in the village. It is said
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  Speaker 1: that the first church edifice was erected in seventeen sixty
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  Speaker 1: and was located on the ground now known as the
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  Speaker 1: Old Colonial Graveyard on Green Street, the spot being marked
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  Speaker 1: by a cross erected October fifteenth, eighteen ninety seven to
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  Speaker 1: indicate the location of the first church, at which time
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  Speaker 1: appropriate services were held at Saint John's Church and at
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  Speaker 1: the old Graveyard. This undoubtedly is the spot where the
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  Speaker 1: early missionaries officiated, dividing their time between Queen Anne's Chapel
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  Speaker 1: at Fort Hunter and the old Church at Johnstown. The
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  Speaker 1: next church building was probably erected in seventeen seventy one
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  Speaker 1: or seventeen seventy two. It occupied part of the lot
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  Speaker 1: on which the present church now stands, with its side
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  Speaker 1: to Market Street and with the front facing northward. In
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  Speaker 1: erecting this church, Sir William gave a two acre lot
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  Speaker 1: on which it stood, and also a glebe of forty
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  Speaker 1: acres on the southeast side of the village. The fight
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  Speaker 1: for this glebe between the Episcopalians and the Presbyterians after
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  Speaker 1: the war is very interesting reading, but we have not
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  Speaker 1: space to record it at the present time. It seems
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  Speaker 1: that Sir William had never legally conveyed the title to
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  Speaker 1: the property, which after his death reverted to his son,
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  Speaker 1: Sir John Johnson, and after the confiscation of the estate,
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  Speaker 1: the Presbyterians occupied both church and Glebe. The Episcopalians obtained
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  Speaker 1: possession of the church years after, but the Presbyterian's claim
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  Speaker 1: to the Glebe was confirmed by the legislature. Saint John's
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  Speaker 1: Church was destroyed by fire in eighteen thirty six. Under
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  Speaker 1: the chancel was found the tomb of Sir William. In rebuilding,
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  Speaker 1: the church's location on the lot was changed the front
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  Speaker 1: facing the east. This change left the tomb outside the
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  Speaker 1: walls of the church and its location was lost until
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  Speaker 1: discovered in eighteen sixty two by the Reverend Mister Kellogg,
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  Speaker 1: then rector of Saint John's. The vault was found in
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  Speaker 1: good condition, except that a few bricks of the roof
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  Speaker 1: had fallen. A plain gold ring bearing the date of
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  Speaker 1: June seventeen thirty nine sixteen was found in the vault,
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  Speaker 1: also the bullet which Sir William received in the Battle
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  Speaker 1: of Lake George. The ring is the posts will belonged
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  Speaker 1: to Katharine Wisenberg, his wife, and worn by him after
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  Speaker 1: her death. Portions of the skeleton remaining were sealed in
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  Speaker 1: a granite sarcophagus and restored to the tomb with appropriate
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  Speaker 1: ceremonies conducted by Right Reverend Bishop Potter of the State
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  Speaker 1: of New York June seventh, eighteen sixty two. The grave
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  Speaker 1: may yet be seen in front of Saint John's, south
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  Speaker 1: of the entrance. On a subsequent visit to this ancient village,
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  Speaker 1: many other places of interest were pointed out to the writer,
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  Speaker 1: including the courthouse on North William Street and the jail
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  Speaker 1: on the corner of South Perry and Montgomery Streets, both
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  Speaker 1: built by Sir William Johnson in seventeen seventy two. The courthouse,
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  Speaker 1: although nearly one hundred and thirty years old, is still
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  Speaker 1: well preserved and attractive in appearance. The brick of which
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  Speaker 1: it is constructed was brought from England and transferred to
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  Speaker 1: a sloop at New York for voyage up the Hudson
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  Speaker 1: to Albany. From thence they were carried by wagons to Johnstown.
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  Speaker 1: In the octagonal tower which surmounts the courthouse is a
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  Speaker 1: substitute for a bell in the shape of a triangle
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  Speaker 1: made from a large iron bar, which is struck with
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  Speaker 1: a hammer by the caretaker whenever the court is called together.
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  Speaker 1: The jail is of stone with walls four feet thick,
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  Speaker 1: and is located on a slight eminence sloping gently to
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  Speaker 1: the south, north and west. On the lawn are cannon
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  Speaker 1: and pyramids of shot and shell, leaving the spectator a
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  Speaker 1: little in doubt of the character of the old, well
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  Speaker 1: kept building, flanked by modern structures for the sheriff's offices.
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  Speaker 1: The jail was begun at the same time with the courthouse,
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  Speaker 1: the legislature appropriating sixteen hundred pounds for their completion in
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  Speaker 1: seventeen seventy four. Of the jail, it is said, under
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  Speaker 1: the date of October twenty sixth, seventeen seventy five, the
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  Speaker 1: Try and County Revolutionary Committee inquired of Sir John Johnson
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  Speaker 1: whether he pretended a prerogative to the courthouse in jail,
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  Speaker 1: and would hinder or interrupt the Committee to make use
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  Speaker 1: of the same public houses to our want and service
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  Speaker 1: in the common cause. Sir John in reply, claimed the
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  Speaker 1: buildings as his property until he had been refunded seven
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  Speaker 1: hundred pounds which Sir William had advanced toward their construction.
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  Speaker 1: The Committee, at the same time, respecting the claim, fitted
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  Speaker 1: up a private house as a prison and sent some
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  Speaker 1: convicts to Albany and Hartford for safe keeping. Congress, however,
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  Speaker 1: was informed that Sir William had conveyed the buildings to
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  Speaker 1: the county, and the jail was used as a fort
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  Speaker 1: by the patriots during the Revolution, being fortified with palisades
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  Speaker 1: and blockhouses. Of the early taverns of Johnstown, the most
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  Speaker 1: noted were the Gilbert Tices Inn formerly on William Street,
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  Speaker 1: the Black Horse Tavern on the corner of William and
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  Speaker 1: Montgomery Streets now known as the Young Love Homestead, and
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  Speaker 1: Union Hall at the junction of East Maine and East
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  Speaker 1: State Streets, or as it was called in earlier years,
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  Speaker 1: in the angle of the Tribes Hill and Fondas Bush Roads.
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  Speaker 1: They were frontier inns and were at times scenes of
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  Speaker 1: lawlness and brawls between hunters and trappers and the Indians
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  Speaker 1: and half breeds who frequented them to exchange their stocks
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  Speaker 1: of firs and drink deep in the proceeds. Shortly after
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  Speaker 1: the war, Gilbert Tice is in on William Street was
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  Speaker 1: kept by a Frenchman named Jean Baptiste de Fonclair, who
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  Speaker 1: was a very popular landlord, notwithstanding his excitability. It was
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  Speaker 1: in this building that Nick Stoner met the murderer of
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  Speaker 1: his father, the story of which meeting is told by J. R.
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  Speaker 1: Simms and others. One day after the war, a party
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  Speaker 1: of six or seven Canadian Indians who had come to
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  Speaker 1: the little settlement to exchange furs for fire water, were
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  Speaker 1: gathered in and about the kitchen and bar room, awaiting
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  Speaker 1: the meal that was being prepared for them by the
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  Speaker 1: landlord's family. In the kitchen were three Indians drinking from
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  Speaker 1: bottles of whiskey that were on the table. Standing near
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  Speaker 1: the huge open fireplace where the meal was being cooked.
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  Speaker 1: On the hearth was a large platter of fried pork
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  Speaker 1: swimming in hot gravy, and dishes of vegetables ready for
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  Speaker 1: the meal. Major Stoner, in search of a friend, entered
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  Speaker 1: the kitchen, and, being slightly under the influence of liquor,
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  Speaker 1: he soon became involved in a quarrel with one of
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  Speaker 1: the half drunken Redskins. Major Stoner's father, having been killed
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  Speaker 1: and scalped by an Indian, the sight of a dusky
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  Speaker 1: savage was always enough to arouse murderous passion in his breast,
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  Speaker 1: and he instantly grappled the Indian and threw him on
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  Speaker 1: the table, which overturned and landed his antagonist on the
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  Speaker 1: floor amid the debris of broken bottles, crockery, and part
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  Speaker 1: of the prepared feast, springing to his feet while the
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  Speaker 1: room resounded with war cries and oaths of the combatants.
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  Speaker 1: The Indian leaped over the table and grappled Stoner again,
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  Speaker 1: But as in the former tackle, the white man proved
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  Speaker 1: the most skillful, and the Indian was soon at the
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  Speaker 1: mercy of his wiry, maddened antagonists, who, in attempting to
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  Speaker 1: throw him in the open fireplace, only succeeded in landing
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  Speaker 1: his half naked body in the great trencher of sizzling fat,
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  Speaker 1: burning his back in a fearful manner. While the fracas
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  Speaker 1: in the kitchen was going on, a stalwart, half naked warrior,
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  Speaker 1: aroused by hearing the name of Nick Stona repeated, was dancing,
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  Speaker 1: or rather shuffling around the barroom, flourishing a scalping knife,
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  Speaker 1: on the handle of which were numerous notches, and boasting
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  Speaker 1: in a monotonous tone of the bloody deeds recorded on
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  Speaker 1: the handle. Nine marks indicated the number of scalps of
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  Speaker 1: white men killed during the war. Nick Stoner in a
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  Speaker 1: frenzy of rage, left the kitchen after throwing the Indian
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  Speaker 1: into the fire, passed through a hall on his way
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  Speaker 1: into the front part of the inn, and almost stumbled
• 23:00
  Speaker 1: over an Indian called Captain John, lying there in a
• 23:04
  Speaker 1: beastly state of intoxication. Noticing an ear ring in the
• 23:09
  Speaker 1: man's ear, he placed one foot in the man's neck, and,
• 23:13
  Speaker 1: grasping the jewel, tore the flesh apart and dropped the
• 23:17
  Speaker 1: jewel on the floor. Unconscious of the injury done him,
• 23:22
  Speaker 1: the Indian turned over with a grunt, and Stoner passed
• 23:26
  Speaker 1: into the barroom just in time to see the painted
• 23:29
  Speaker 1: red devil flourishing his scalping knife with yells and gesticulations.
• 23:35
  Speaker 1: And hear him say, as he pointed to a notch
• 23:38
  Speaker 1: deeper than the others, and this is the scalp of
• 23:41
  Speaker 1: old Stoner. Crazed with liquor and stung to madness by
• 23:46
  Speaker 1: the thought of being in the presence of his father's murderer,
• 23:50
  Speaker 1: he sprang to the fireplace, seized an old fashioned rot
• 23:54
  Speaker 1: and iron, and with the exclamation, you, red devil, you
• 23:59
  Speaker 1: will never scall up another one, he hurled it red
• 24:03
  Speaker 1: hot as it was at the head of the Indian,
• 24:06
  Speaker 1: striking him squarely on the neck and laying him apparently lifeless,
• 24:11
  Speaker 1: on the floor, while his own hand was burned to
• 24:14
  Speaker 1: a blister with the top of the andiron. At once,
• 24:18
  Speaker 1: bedlam seemed to let loose, and fears were entertained of
• 24:22
  Speaker 1: other serious consequences, but the friends of stone A succeeded
• 24:27
  Speaker 1: in getting him to leave the house, while others induced
• 24:30
  Speaker 1: the savages to leave town, bearing their burned comrades with them.
• 24:38
  Speaker 1: End of Chapter twelve. Recording by Roger Moline