Latest / Stuff Mom Never Told You / Female Firsts: Lena Richard
Transcript
- 0:05Speaker 1: Hey, this is Annie and Samantha and welcome to Steffan
- 0:07Speaker 1: never told you production by hurried to you, and it
- 0:18Speaker 1: is time for another edition of Female First, which means
- 0:22Speaker 1: we are once again joined by the adventurous, the amazing Eves.
- 0:27Speaker 2: Welcome Eaves.
- 0:28Speaker 3: Hello, thank you for the welcome.
- 0:30Speaker 2: Thank you for being here. Listeners.
- 0:33Speaker 1: If you hear some cicadas, Eves, every time you joined us,
- 0:37Speaker 1: Eves where you have to ask where are you?
- 0:39Speaker 2: And you're it looks like you're.
- 0:41Speaker 1: In the wilderness. You're wearing a dinosaur shirt. I'm loving
- 0:44Speaker 1: all of this, Thank you very much. I was in
- 0:48Speaker 1: a dinosaur mood today. So some days the dinosaur mood
- 0:54Speaker 1: just strikes and you must wear your dinosaur apparel.
- 0:59Speaker 2: Yes, So how have you been, Eves? Anything of note?
- 1:04Speaker 4: Is there?
- 1:04Speaker 3: Has there ever been anything of No? I'm not sure. Oh, okay.
- 1:07Speaker 4: So I went to a craft club recently, and that
- 1:13Speaker 4: was new for me because I think, as I've talked
- 1:15Speaker 4: to y'all about before, and I have also maybe talked
- 1:18Speaker 4: about on the show before, I have gotten back into
- 1:21Speaker 4: my art making and my crafting through sewing and bookmaking.
- 1:25Speaker 4: So going to a craft club was new for me
- 1:28Speaker 4: because I'm not used to crafting and community, but it was.
- 1:32Speaker 4: But I am used to art making and community, and
- 1:34Speaker 4: I love that. I had just never been to a
- 1:37Speaker 4: craft specific club. So I went with a new friend
- 1:41Speaker 4: and that was really fun. I got to know the
- 1:45Speaker 4: new friend, and I got to meet some other people there,
- 1:48Speaker 4: and it was just I was a little like I
- 1:52Speaker 4: was a little socially anxious beforehand, and then I got.
- 1:55Speaker 3: There and everybody was so nice.
- 1:58Speaker 4: It was super chill, you know, people working on all
- 2:02Speaker 4: different sorts of things there. So yeah, I guess that's
- 2:06Speaker 4: something something recent in my life that may be a
- 2:09Speaker 4: little interesting to everyone.
- 2:11Speaker 5: Actually it's very fitting because I was just telling Annie
- 2:14Speaker 5: that we're about to have a future episode about making
- 2:17Speaker 5: friends as adults, and I have been curious about the
- 2:22Speaker 5: craft clubs because I've seen them at libraries like knitting days,
- 2:26Speaker 5: and I love this idea. So I feel like I
- 2:29Speaker 5: need to pick your brain. We need maybe we need
- 2:30Speaker 5: to have you back on talk about experiences about that,
- 2:33Speaker 5: because I think that's the whole conversation we want to
- 2:36Speaker 5: have about this new way of making friendships after COVID.
- 2:41Speaker 5: But I love that, and I need more reports because
- 2:45Speaker 5: I think I need someone to prep me if I
- 2:47Speaker 5: actually ever try to do something like this.
- 2:49Speaker 3: Okay, I can do what I can.
- 2:51Speaker 4: That was my first time going, but I'm sure if
- 2:53Speaker 4: I get the opportunity to and the timing is right
- 2:56Speaker 4: since I'm all over the place sometimes and I can
- 2:58Speaker 4: get back to it, then then I would love to
- 3:00Speaker 4: do that. But I also have definitely been thinking about
- 3:03Speaker 4: making friends post COVID, and I have been making a
- 3:06Speaker 4: lot of them and in ways that feel genuine and
- 3:10Speaker 4: natural and not forced at all, and it's always been
- 3:14Speaker 4: so super smooth. Like I went to an event with
- 3:16Speaker 4: a new friend this past weekend as well, and it
- 3:19Speaker 4: was another art thing. So art things definitely can connect
- 3:22Speaker 4: help connect the people. They're so so broad and so varied,
- 3:27Speaker 4: and it's nice.
- 3:27Speaker 3: Because you have something else to focus on with the person.
- 3:30Speaker 4: So if if like the person isn't doesn't really it's
- 3:34Speaker 4: maybe a little it's it's a little awkward because y'all
- 3:37Speaker 4: don't really know each other. Well, then you have something
- 3:40Speaker 4: else to focus on too, But then there's still room
- 3:42Speaker 4: around the event to have a singular conversation.
- 3:46Speaker 3: So yeah, it's a very interesting topic.
- 3:49Speaker 5: Yeah, you're definitely gotten my wills going because again, you
- 3:53Speaker 5: are also the extrovert.
- 3:55Speaker 6: I feel like.
- 3:58Speaker 7: We've talked about previously when I was like, Hi, you
- 4:02Speaker 7: genuinely do so good, so well when it comes to
- 4:07Speaker 7: being in crowds and being around people, like your calm
- 4:11Speaker 7: looks like confidence, but not in an ego way.
- 4:14Speaker 5: That it's the most impressive thing I've ever seen in
- 4:17Speaker 5: a person. That I still think about this conversation that
- 4:20Speaker 5: we've had when we've gone out in public, and I'm
- 4:22Speaker 5: just like clinging to you for moral support because it's
- 4:26Speaker 5: a whole different take. And I love how you interact
- 4:29Speaker 5: with people and that you are genuine in all of
- 4:31Speaker 5: your interactions. It seems so we're gonna have to have
- 4:35Speaker 5: I'm just gonna pick your brain in an episode.
- 4:38Speaker 3: Okay, I'm here for it. Just let me know when
- 4:39Speaker 3: to come back. You know I'm here.
- 4:43Speaker 1: I love how so often we're like we do this
- 4:45Speaker 1: with a lot of guests, but especially Ease, We're like,
- 4:47Speaker 1: can you help us?
- 4:48Speaker 2: Yeah, you're stressed, we need your meditation.
- 4:52Speaker 5: Anyway, I have become that person to us.
- 4:58Speaker 2: Well, I'm curious kind of thinking about things that bring
- 5:01Speaker 2: people together. Are you a cook, Eaves, do you like
- 5:07Speaker 2: to cook?
- 5:09Speaker 3: No?
- 5:09Speaker 4: Panic ensued when you said, are you a cook? I
- 5:12Speaker 4: started a panic immediately because I'm not a cook. I
- 5:15Speaker 4: think Samantha. I know Samantha's a great cook. I like
- 5:20Speaker 4: I have I had any of your food, Annie, I
- 5:23Speaker 4: don't know if I have.
- 5:25Speaker 3: But yeah, I can cook, right, But I'm not a cook.
- 5:31Speaker 4: Like I can make certain things well, I know really
- 5:35Speaker 4: well how to put different seasonings together, like just naturally
- 5:40Speaker 4: I can.
- 5:41Speaker 3: So I have certain skills.
- 5:42Speaker 4: That come naturally, like I know how to cook for
- 5:45Speaker 4: myself or my family, but I'm not the cook. Like
- 5:48Speaker 4: nobody would come to me and be like, Eves, you
- 5:51Speaker 4: got to make this thing for this party or this pot,
- 5:53Speaker 4: look like you need to make this, you need to
- 5:55Speaker 4: make that. And I am also a recipe person, and
- 5:59Speaker 4: I feel like although I can throw things together, oftentimes
- 6:04Speaker 4: I'm working off of a recipe and I know what goes.
- 6:07Speaker 4: I can add lib off of a recipe, but usually
- 6:09Speaker 4: I have some sort of foundational building block that is
- 6:12Speaker 4: like somebody else's, and then I might be able to
- 6:15Speaker 4: tinker with that.
- 6:15Speaker 3: A little bit.
- 6:16Speaker 4: So yeah, like come to my house and I will
- 6:19Speaker 4: cook for you and you'll really enjoy the meal. But
- 6:21Speaker 4: I wouldn't like I'm not gonna be the I'm not
- 6:26Speaker 4: gonna be the person who is Like if I continue
- 6:30Speaker 4: to have a family line, like all my recipes are
- 6:32Speaker 4: gonna get passed down, Like I don't look, I don't
- 6:36Speaker 4: know who's gonna be responsible for that because it's not
- 6:39Speaker 4: gonna be me.
- 6:40Speaker 3: But but I do enjoy eating.
- 6:45Speaker 5: Okay, Yeah, I need to put a stand because you
- 6:47Speaker 5: try to say that I was a good cook.
- 6:49Speaker 6: That's exactly how I cook as well.
- 6:50Speaker 5: I literally take a recipe and I'm even more stringent
- 6:54Speaker 5: and like the first time I do it, I will
- 6:56Speaker 5: do everything by the book, and then after I hate it,
- 7:00Speaker 5: then I will modify how I wanted to go. So
- 7:04Speaker 5: you because you have been present when I have cooked things,
- 7:08Speaker 5: but I would never say I was a cook. I
- 7:10Speaker 5: also don't get asked to do things and everything is
- 7:12Speaker 5: like oh like stress and half of it is probably
- 7:16Speaker 5: pre bought, Like this is the way I do things.
- 7:19Speaker 5: I do both because I did host a lunar New
- 7:22Speaker 5: Year's event in which yes Eves came.
- 7:26Speaker 6: It was definitely trial and error.
- 7:28Speaker 5: So I don't want that to be confused because I'm
- 7:30Speaker 5: like I tried because I wanted to have friends here,
- 7:33Speaker 5: but I'm not a cook cook. My partner is actually
- 7:37Speaker 5: really great at improv in cooking on the fly. Like
- 7:41Speaker 5: I it makes me anxious and I hate it. Like
- 7:44Speaker 5: after I eat it, I love it. But like if
- 7:45Speaker 5: I give him a recipe or like, this is what
- 7:47Speaker 5: I want and then he starts doing his own thing,
- 7:49Speaker 5: I kind of freak out a little bit because I'm.
- 7:51Speaker 6: Like, that's not what I wanted. But he does a
- 7:53Speaker 6: good job, so I can't say much.
- 7:55Speaker 5: But yeah, like I'm the same way too, because I'm like, no,
- 7:58Speaker 5: this is the thing, this is what I found on
- 7:59Speaker 5: a box, this is what I found online, and I
- 8:02Speaker 5: am going to use this as my basics and I'm
- 8:04Speaker 5: going to follow it to a t.
- 8:06Speaker 6: And I will say, any I don't think I've ever
- 8:08Speaker 6: Have you ever cooked for me? I don't know if
- 8:10Speaker 6: you I've ever eaten your food.
- 8:13Speaker 2: I don't think I have.
- 8:14Speaker 1: And it's in part because I cook a lot. You
- 8:18Speaker 1: cook a lot and your partner cooks a lot. And Okay,
- 8:24Speaker 1: a part of the issue is I think I'm actually
- 8:26Speaker 1: really good cook and I love cooking. You both didn't
- 8:31Speaker 1: meet me in the time when I was baking all
- 8:34Speaker 1: the time, and I bring baked.
- 8:35Speaker 2: Goods all the time. It was just awesome. They were
- 8:39Speaker 2: very well reviewed.
- 8:41Speaker 1: But I got kind of like typecast for a couple
- 8:43Speaker 1: of things and it annoyed me.
- 8:45Speaker 2: But then I moved out of that phase.
- 8:47Speaker 1: But I love cooking, but I kind of have my
- 8:52Speaker 1: things that I stick to. I have a small kitchen,
- 8:55Speaker 1: so I can't do if like, if you're gonna ask
- 8:57Speaker 1: me to get out the food processor, I'm probably not
- 9:00Speaker 1: going to get out the food processor. And I also
- 9:04Speaker 1: i'm kind of I don't have the array of spices
- 9:11Speaker 1: that you and your partner do, Samantha, so I can't.
- 9:14Speaker 1: And that's because I'm a single person who lives alone,
- 9:18Speaker 1: and I just don't like having a lot of stuff
- 9:20Speaker 1: that I might use only once or not that often.
- 9:23Speaker 1: And I'm also like concerned about time, and so there
- 9:29Speaker 1: are things that I like make once and I like,
- 9:31Speaker 1: like one time I'd made this amazing turkey. It was
- 9:35Speaker 1: so good, I'll never do it again, probably because it
- 9:38Speaker 1: took so much time.
- 9:41Speaker 2: So I know I can do it. It's there.
- 9:44Speaker 1: But most of the time I kind of make simple
- 9:47Speaker 1: things that are very easy. So the reason you haven't
- 9:50Speaker 1: had a lot of my cooking is that I feel
- 9:51Speaker 1: like your partner has these ideas and I just don't
- 9:55Speaker 1: have the like nice ingredients.
- 9:58Speaker 2: Like I can make you something pretty simple. It will
- 10:00Speaker 2: be good, but it's not gonna be near as good as.
- 10:02Speaker 1: What you have.
- 10:03Speaker 5: I would still be down for it, and I know
- 10:16Speaker 5: any you're gonna transition to this, but I'm so excited.
- 10:19Speaker 5: I just have to put this in here about the
- 10:21Speaker 5: person you brought because I just recently went to New
- 10:25Speaker 5: New Orleans and the one thing if anybody goes traveling
- 10:30Speaker 5: to New Orleans, I love the city and the only
- 10:34Speaker 5: not the onlyeston. There's so many reasons, but one of
- 10:35Speaker 5: the main focuses for me is to get as much
- 10:39Speaker 5: New Orleans cuisine as possible. Like I don't want to drink,
- 10:43Speaker 5: I don't want to do anything else but find the
- 10:45Speaker 5: best food there. So I'm really pumped about this conversation.
- 10:51Speaker 1: Yes, me too, So let's get into it. Who did
- 10:54Speaker 1: you bring for us to talk about today, Eves?
- 10:56Speaker 4: So today we're talking about Lena Richard, which is why
- 11:00Speaker 4: Samantha is mentioning New Orleans. She was the first black
- 11:04Speaker 4: woman to publish a New Orleans Creo cuisine cookbook and
- 11:08Speaker 4: the first black American to host a cooking show. So
- 11:12Speaker 4: her story is super exciting and we'll probably make you hungry.
- 11:19Speaker 4: So actually, y'all pause the episode, get a snack if
- 11:23Speaker 4: you're not snacking, and then come back and then turn
- 11:28Speaker 4: the episode back on, and then you'll be far more
- 11:32Speaker 4: prepared for what's to come, because you may get hungry
- 11:35Speaker 4: during this episode. Okay, So we'll start at the beginning
- 11:39Speaker 4: of Lena's life. She was born in New Roads, Louisiana,
- 11:43Speaker 4: on September eleventh, eighteen ninety two. Her parents were Jean
- 11:47Speaker 4: Pierre Paul and Francois Laurent, and her father was a farmer.
- 11:53Speaker 4: Her mother cooked for Nugent Viron. I may be mispronouncing
- 11:57Speaker 4: the name, but he was a manufacturer and his wife's
- 12:00Speaker 4: name was Alice, and they had children, and Lena's family
- 12:06Speaker 4: was Catholic and she had nine siblings. Eventually, their family
- 12:12Speaker 4: moved from New Roads to New Orleans, Louisiana, and Lina
- 12:17Speaker 4: would start helping her mother cook after school, and so Alice,
- 12:23Speaker 4: the wife of Nugent Varren, the family that they were
- 12:28Speaker 4: cooking for. Alice noticed Lina's cooking skills, and so when
- 12:34Speaker 4: Alice graduated from high school, their family hired Lena as
- 12:39Speaker 4: a full time cook, and Lina would start by making
- 12:43Speaker 4: lunch for them, and then she started doing more dinners
- 12:48Speaker 4: and events, and Alice ended up sending Lena to a
- 12:55Speaker 4: cooking school in New Orleans.
- 12:58Speaker 3: And then MS Farmer School of Cookery in Boston.
- 13:02Speaker 4: That was a school that was founded in nineteen o
- 13:05Speaker 4: two and at the time, Lena was the only black
- 13:08Speaker 4: woman in the program. And here's a quote from Lena
- 13:11Speaker 4: that she later said in a newspaper interview. When I
- 13:15Speaker 4: got way up there, I found out in a hurry,
- 13:18Speaker 4: they can't teach me much more than I know. I
- 13:20Speaker 4: learned things about new desserts and salads, But when it
- 13:24Speaker 4: comes to cooking meats, stews, soups, sauces and such dishes,
- 13:28Speaker 4: we Southern cooks have Northern cooks beat by a mile.
- 13:32Speaker 4: That's not big talk, that's honest truth. That's the end
- 13:36Speaker 4: of the quote. When I was rereading that quote just now,
- 13:38Speaker 4: I was like, Wow, she's starting North South beef in
- 13:41Speaker 4: his quote, because I don't know if she was prompted
- 13:47Speaker 4: to say, do you think Southern is better than Northern?
- 13:52Speaker 3: But it's just it's really funny.
- 13:53Speaker 5: When it comes to food, people get really defensive and territorial,
- 13:58Speaker 5: and like a lot of pride comes out, like for
- 14:01Speaker 5: the fact that I've seen not only in the like
- 14:03Speaker 5: North South thing, I've also seen like the beef between
- 14:06Speaker 5: when it comes to barbecue, like statewide like people are
- 14:10Speaker 5: And she definitely threw down the gauntlet with that statement.
- 14:14Speaker 4: Mm hmm, and fair to also like there are fair
- 14:18Speaker 4: arguments for why some regional variations of things are better
- 14:22Speaker 4: than others.
- 14:23Speaker 3: I've had my own complaints in traveling so.
- 14:29Speaker 2: And I feel like.
- 14:32Speaker 5: Get with the love, like I will specifically go to
- 14:35Speaker 5: New Orleans dreaming about specific foods and that can only
- 14:39Speaker 5: be done well in New Orleans. And even though I'm
- 14:41Speaker 5: not from there, I have opinions about Bignet's and where
- 14:44Speaker 5: you need to go even though I don't, like I'm
- 14:47Speaker 5: not from there. So again, yet I think she has
- 14:50Speaker 5: the right to say to say those things.
- 14:53Speaker 4: For sure, And also like it was, it's also nice
- 14:55Speaker 4: to hear in that quote her acknowledging that, like her
- 14:59Speaker 4: actual experience of cooking is just as valuable as the
- 15:03Speaker 4: information that she was getting from her school studies. Like
- 15:06Speaker 4: I appreciated that she acknowledged that, especially because she was
- 15:11Speaker 4: in a setting where she was like the only black woman,
- 15:14Speaker 4: but she she wasn't. We're oftentimes the community around her
- 15:17Speaker 4: around cooking, around culinary arts could denegrate black people or
- 15:22Speaker 4: say that it was a skill that we just had
- 15:24Speaker 4: in Nately, it was just part of being black, was
- 15:26Speaker 4: to like be a good cook. So it could you know,
- 15:30Speaker 4: she didn't. She didn't clearly wasn't discouraged by that. I'm
- 15:34Speaker 4: not exactly sure how much of that she faced interpersonally,
- 15:38Speaker 4: but that definitely was the vibe of the day, that
- 15:42Speaker 4: was the culture of the day.
- 15:43Speaker 3: So that was definitely nice to see.
- 15:46Speaker 4: And I like how she said, that's not big talk,
- 15:48Speaker 4: like I'm just spinning facts here.
- 15:50Speaker 3: Okay, so.
- 15:54Speaker 4: Here's a quote, and I guess, Annie, you'll tell me
- 15:56Speaker 4: if I'm saying this dish name wrong. It's French. But
- 16:00Speaker 4: so here's another quote from Lena. I cooked a couple
- 16:04Speaker 4: of my dishes, like creole gumbo and my chicken voloven,
- 16:07Speaker 4: and they go crazy almost trying to copy down what
- 16:10Speaker 4: I say. I think maybe I'm pretty good, so someday
- 16:14Speaker 4: I'd write it down myself. As you can see, she's
- 16:18Speaker 4: already thinking about documenting and recording her recipes. So this
- 16:26Speaker 4: inspiration started to happen while she was in school. After
- 16:31Speaker 4: she finished studying at the school, she went back to
- 16:33Speaker 4: New Orleans and she kept working for the family that
- 16:36Speaker 4: she was working for before. But then she was starting
- 16:39Speaker 4: to become more known as a great cook in the
- 16:42Speaker 4: city and she ended up starting a catering business where
- 16:46Speaker 4: she mostly serves like high profile, high society white residents.
- 16:52Speaker 4: And in nineteen fourteen she married a man named Percival Richard,
- 16:57Speaker 4: and seven years later they had their only child. And
- 17:02Speaker 4: by the time Lena was twenty eight, she had left
- 17:05Speaker 4: working for the family and she started running a shop
- 17:09Speaker 4: out of her home. It was called the Sweet Shop,
- 17:11Speaker 4: and in it she sold sandwiches, red beans and rice,
- 17:15Speaker 4: and watermelon salad. This is just one of many entrepreneurial
- 17:20Speaker 4: adventures that she would have.
- 17:22Speaker 3: In her lifetime.
- 17:24Speaker 4: Also, according to census records, Lena might have worked as
- 17:28Speaker 4: a home instructor at a black public school in New Orleans.
- 17:32Speaker 4: But Alice, the person who really believed in Lina's cooking abilities,
- 17:39Speaker 4: ended up dying in nineteen thirty one, but Lena did
- 17:42Speaker 4: stay in touch with that family and she continue her cooking.
- 17:48Speaker 4: So in nineteen thirty one, Lena also became the head
- 17:51Speaker 4: chef of the Orleans Club, which was a social club
- 17:54Speaker 4: that was mostly white women, and when she was there,
- 17:57Speaker 4: Lena made food for luncheons and through that work she
- 18:01Speaker 4: started getting more opportunities for catering work. In nineteen thirty six,
- 18:07Speaker 4: Lena started hosting cooking demonstrations for all black audiences, and
- 18:15Speaker 4: in nineteen thirty seven she left her position at the
- 18:17Speaker 4: Orleans Club and that same year she opened the Lena M.
- 18:21Speaker 4: Richard Catering School, another one of her entrepreneurial ventures. It
- 18:26Speaker 4: was the first cooking school ran by a black woman
- 18:29Speaker 4: in New Orleans, and it was the first school that
- 18:32Speaker 4: was made specifically for the instruction of Black people, first
- 18:35Speaker 4: cooking school that was made specifically for the instruction of
- 18:38Speaker 4: black people. And Lina said this quote, My purpose in
- 18:42Speaker 4: opening a cooking school was to teach men and women
- 18:44Speaker 4: the art of food preparation and serving in order that
- 18:48Speaker 4: they would become capable of preparing and serving food for
- 18:51Speaker 4: any occasion, and also that they might be in a
- 18:54Speaker 4: position to demand higher wages.
- 18:58Speaker 3: So she clearly.
- 18:59Speaker 4: Had an i on what was available to black people,
- 19:05Speaker 4: how she could help with the knowledge that she had
- 19:08Speaker 4: and the resources that she had to bring other people
- 19:11Speaker 4: up along with her. So I know, you know, I
- 19:15Speaker 4: mentioned earlier how a lot of the people that she
- 19:17Speaker 4: was cooking for were these like wealthier, more upper class
- 19:22Speaker 4: white folks, but she definitely also had an eye on
- 19:26Speaker 4: like how other black people, other black cooks were getting
- 19:29Speaker 4: opportunities to So Lena continued doing her demonstration for audiences
- 19:35Speaker 4: of all kinds of races. And back to what we
- 19:39Speaker 4: spoke about a little earlier. When she was at Fannie Farmer,
- 19:42Speaker 4: that cooking school, she was dreaming about writing a cookbook,
- 19:46Speaker 4: and so at this time in the nineteen thirties, her
- 19:50Speaker 4: daughter Marie helped her prepare her cookbook. It took them
- 19:53Speaker 4: a couple of years. Lena would tell the recipes and
- 19:58Speaker 4: the cooking tips to Marie. Marie would write them down
- 20:01Speaker 4: and give them to a typist, and Lena held cooking
- 20:05Speaker 4: demos so that she could pay the printer to create
- 20:07Speaker 4: the book. And in nineteen thirty nine, Lena was able
- 20:10Speaker 4: to send her book, Lena Richards's Cookbook because make no
- 20:13Speaker 4: mistake about whose it was, to the printer, and she
- 20:18Speaker 4: went on a book tour and food writers like Clementine
- 20:21Speaker 4: Paddleford and James Beard gave the book positive reviews. People
- 20:25Speaker 4: across the country were interested in Lina's work and recipes,
- 20:29Speaker 4: and she wanted to promote the cookbook in the Northeast,
- 20:34Speaker 4: the place she had. Oh yeah, she had talked a
- 20:37Speaker 4: little less about earlier. So she took a quote suitcase
- 20:40Speaker 4: bulging with ten pounds of dried shrimp, pure cane syrup
- 20:44Speaker 4: Louisiana shelled pecans or pecans, as my grandma would say,
- 20:48Speaker 4: an old fashioned brown sugar. So she was like, I'm
- 20:52Speaker 4: going to come prepare. I don't know what they have
- 20:54Speaker 4: up there, but I'm going to make sure I have
- 20:55Speaker 4: what I need to show these people what I'm about
- 20:59Speaker 4: in my cooking. When she was up there, she met
- 21:01Speaker 4: food journalist Clementine Paddleford, who had a column at the
- 21:05Speaker 4: New York Herald Tribune, and she cooked a scalefish for Clementine.
- 21:10Speaker 4: There's a description of what scalefish is if you want
- 21:12Speaker 4: to go look it up. Clementin wrote an article that
- 21:15Speaker 4: was called cook from New Orleans shows Northerners tricks of trade. So, yeah,
- 21:22Speaker 4: the North South thing was happening a lot clearly, And
- 21:25Speaker 4: Lena sold seven hundred copies that were priced at two
- 21:29Speaker 4: dollars each in one month. The next year, in nineteen forty,
- 21:34Speaker 4: Lena got a contract to publish her cookbook as the
- 21:38Speaker 4: New Orleans Cookbook. It had an introduction in this version
- 21:43Speaker 4: by the writer Gwen Bristow, who was a white writer,
- 21:47Speaker 4: and it didn't have the picture that it had of
- 21:49Speaker 4: her in the book that she published privately that had
- 21:52Speaker 4: a picture of her in it.
- 21:53Speaker 3: This one didn't have a picture of her in it anymore.
- 21:58Speaker 4: So it was kind of like, you know, it was
- 22:00Speaker 4: it was clearly being sanitized a little bit, like her
- 22:03Speaker 4: name was taken off of the book. So it was
- 22:06Speaker 4: less emphasis on Lena the cook, like I'm the one
- 22:10Speaker 4: who gathered these recipes. I'm the one who went to school.
- 22:13Speaker 4: I'm the one who's been, you know, research, doing all
- 22:16Speaker 4: this research and making sure to document it.
- 22:18Speaker 3: I'm the one who's the cook.
- 22:19Speaker 4: There was less emphasis on that and more just like, Okay,
- 22:22Speaker 4: this is creole cuisine, this is New Orleans cuisine, and
- 22:25Speaker 4: this is what's being showcased in this book, and the
- 22:28Speaker 4: author is kind of secondary. But that said, it was
- 22:32Speaker 4: still a major publisher that published her book, and it
- 22:36Speaker 4: was sweet that Lena dedicated the book to Alice. She
- 22:41Speaker 4: said in the dedication Missus Nugent b Verian, whose kindness,
- 22:46Speaker 4: advice and assistance has made this book possible. So it's
- 22:50Speaker 4: clear how much Alice is uplifting of her work and
- 22:55Speaker 4: encouraging of her to go further in her cooking career
- 22:59Speaker 4: left an imprint on her, so much that she decided
- 23:02Speaker 4: to put an in print. So the book included traditional
- 23:06Speaker 4: recipes and some of Lena's own recipes, and Lena, unlike
- 23:13Speaker 4: a lot of other people who were publishing books about
- 23:17Speaker 4: recipes from the region, Lena acknowledged the black cooks who
- 23:20Speaker 4: inspired her and New Orleans cuisine in general. And for
- 23:27Speaker 4: a short time after the book was published, Lena went
- 23:30Speaker 4: to Garrison, New York. She did a one month cooking
- 23:34Speaker 4: trial at the Bird and Bottle Inn, and then she
- 23:37Speaker 4: got the position of head chef there after that one
- 23:39Speaker 4: month trial because later on there was one of the
- 23:41Speaker 4: proprietors who was like, she did a lot for us
- 23:44Speaker 4: in a short amount of time, so she was well
- 23:48Speaker 4: regarded there, and there she was known for her shrimp
- 23:51Speaker 4: suit Louisiana, which was a shrimp and vegetable bisk that
- 23:55Speaker 4: had bade Tabasco peppers in it, and in nineteen forty
- 23:59Speaker 4: one she went back to New Orleans and she opened
- 24:03Speaker 4: Lena's Eatery, and Lena's likely closed down sometime during World
- 24:08Speaker 4: War Two, but a couple of years later, in nineteen
- 24:11Speaker 4: forty three, Elizabeth Reynolds, who was the manager of this
- 24:14Speaker 4: place called the Travis House in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, hired
- 24:19Speaker 4: Lena to be the head chef and Lina stayed there
- 24:22Speaker 4: for about two years, and the Colonial Williamsburg Corporate Archives
- 24:27Speaker 4: does have two notebooks of diner's reviews at Travis House,
- 24:31Speaker 4: and one of the reviews, for instance, said Lena is
- 24:34Speaker 4: the queen of oyster Rena. And if you go through
- 24:38Speaker 4: and read some of the other notes that the diners
- 24:42Speaker 4: left about her oyster specifically because our oysters were the
- 24:45Speaker 4: hit thing there. If you go and read some of
- 24:49Speaker 4: those notes, they're like, it does really make our seem
- 24:52Speaker 4: like a celebrity.
- 24:52Speaker 3: And it's clear, even though the notes.
- 24:55Speaker 4: Are about the food, that Lena herself made an impact
- 25:00Speaker 4: them because they were like, dear Lena, your oysters. One
- 25:05Speaker 4: of them said something along the lines of those were
- 25:08Speaker 4: the best oysters I've ever had, Nay, like the best
- 25:12Speaker 4: meal I've ever had, So, you know, they knew that
- 25:16Speaker 4: Lina was doing the work, and they noted that they
- 25:21Speaker 4: appreciated the cooking. But still Lena left Williamsburg and went
- 25:26Speaker 4: back to New Orleans. Eventually she restarted her catering business
- 25:30Speaker 4: with her daughter Marie, and by nineteen forty six she
- 25:33Speaker 4: had started a business selling package dinners and pints, courts
- 25:37Speaker 4: and five and ten gallon containers and those were shipped
- 25:40Speaker 4: across the country and even down to Panama, which was
- 25:44Speaker 4: pretty impressive because there weren't you know, at the time,
- 25:48Speaker 4: TV dinners and frozen dinners weren't really like super huge.
- 25:51Speaker 4: Yet this business that she was doing was a partnership
- 25:54Speaker 4: with Borderline Fine Foods, and Lena would sell things like
- 25:58Speaker 4: shrimp creole turtle soup and yeah that she continued to
- 26:04Speaker 4: do that business too, and in nineteen forty nine she
- 26:07Speaker 4: opened Lena Richard's Gumbo House, where she served like fifty
- 26:11Speaker 4: four gallons of gumbo every week, and she served other
- 26:13Speaker 4: things as well, but the diners at her restaurant were
- 26:17Speaker 4: of all races. Her was the family business, so her
- 26:21Speaker 4: son in law, her husband, and her daughter were involved
- 26:24Speaker 4: in running the Gumbo House and oftentimes they would it
- 26:29Speaker 4: would get full after Sunday Mass because diners would go
- 26:32Speaker 4: to Sunday Mass and they would go there. But all
- 26:36Speaker 4: of her success led her to get her own cooking show,
- 26:38Speaker 4: which is pretty cool. It was called Lena Richards New
- 26:41Speaker 4: Orleans Cookbook, so that aired on Tuesdays and Thursdays on
- 26:46Speaker 4: I think it was like a one year old TV
- 26:48Speaker 4: station WDSUTV in New Orleans. It was sponsored by Wholesome
- 26:52Speaker 4: Bread and it featured a dish every day, and this
- 26:57Speaker 4: made her the first black woman to have her own
- 26:59Speaker 4: TV show, her own cooking show, and most of her
- 27:02Speaker 4: viewers were like middle and upper class women. But you
- 27:05Speaker 4: have to also remember that at the time, TV sets
- 27:07Speaker 4: were also just getting more popular, and this was a
- 27:10Speaker 4: time of exponential growth. So in February of nineteen forty nine,
- 27:14Speaker 4: there were about three thousand TV sets in New Orleans,
- 27:17Speaker 4: and then the next year there were around like eighteen
- 27:20Speaker 4: thousand TV sets of New Orleans. So TV itself was
- 27:23Speaker 4: just getting popular. So it's really cool to know that
- 27:26Speaker 4: Lena had a cooking show on at the time, and
- 27:28Speaker 4: the network knew that they wanted a cooking show, and
- 27:30Speaker 4: they came to her for it. Unfortunately, the footage of
- 27:34Speaker 4: her television show is lost. I really would love to
- 27:36Speaker 4: see it. There are a couple of pictures, but yeah,
- 27:40Speaker 4: there you can't watch all of the episodes, unfortunately. But
- 27:45Speaker 4: her TV show and her frozen food business were doing well.
- 27:49Speaker 4: But unfortunately, on November twenty sixth, nineteen fifty, Lena was
- 27:56Speaker 4: at her restaurant.
- 27:57Speaker 3: There was a.
- 27:58Speaker 4: Patron who had flown in from la and wanted to
- 28:03Speaker 4: order every item on the menus.
- 28:04Speaker 3: It was a very hard work day.
- 28:06Speaker 4: Lena cooked everything and at the end of the day,
- 28:11Speaker 4: super late, she was like, I don't really feel well.
- 28:13Speaker 4: She went back home and the next morning she died
- 28:17Speaker 4: of a heart attack in her home. She was fifty
- 28:19Speaker 4: eight years old, and the family did keep the Gumbo
- 28:23Speaker 4: house open until nineteen fifty eight. And of course lots
- 28:27Speaker 4: of black cooks of New Orleans cuisine you know, came
- 28:31Speaker 4: in her wake, and so she definitely left left a
- 28:34Speaker 4: mark on everybody. But her legacy in itself is definitely
- 28:37Speaker 4: really pretty inspirational, interesting, and yeah, she did a lot
- 28:44Speaker 4: of different things in her time. So I'm happy, happy
- 28:47Speaker 4: that I could share her story today. Yes, and thanks
- 28:50Speaker 4: as always for sharing it.
- 29:02Speaker 2: Both of us.
- 29:03Speaker 1: Samantha and I were very excited about this one, and
- 29:08Speaker 1: it is.
- 29:08Speaker 2: She was so entrepreneurial.
- 29:10Speaker 1: She was doing so much stuff, and she was doing
- 29:12Speaker 1: it early, like frozen food before the nineteen fifties. She
- 29:18Speaker 1: was ahead the TV A show. She was like ahead
- 29:23Speaker 1: of the game. I love that she was recognizing the
- 29:27Speaker 1: work that she had done, but also the work that
- 29:29Speaker 1: other black cooks had done, like making sure. She just
- 29:33Speaker 1: sounds like and you can see it in quotes from her,
- 29:36Speaker 1: but about her that other food writers have done. She
- 29:40Speaker 1: sounds like a person who I mean, we saw it
- 29:42Speaker 1: immediately with her, these Northern cooks.
- 29:47Speaker 2: She had opinions, she knew her worth, she knew what
- 29:50Speaker 2: the work was. And I love it. I think it's fantastic.
- 29:54Speaker 5: It is I love everything when it comes to like
- 29:56Speaker 5: the depth of history that New Orleans has anyway, and
- 30:00Speaker 5: then of course there's the dark history, but like she
- 30:02Speaker 5: persevered in such a way that really established what a
- 30:06Speaker 5: Southern cuisine is and we know it is like the
- 30:09Speaker 5: basis of black community and black women in general, and
- 30:13Speaker 5: being able to create this amazing dish in a culture
- 30:17Speaker 5: that's so different that it's not the South, you know,
- 30:21Speaker 5: like Creole and gumbo and such is not a Southern dish.
- 30:25Speaker 5: It is a New Orleans dish like it is Louisiana specific,
- 30:29Speaker 5: and it's such a like an amazing array of like
- 30:34Speaker 5: technique that you don't think about, and but when it
- 30:37Speaker 5: comes down to it, like it's hard and it's almost
- 30:41Speaker 5: if you are not either you're really good at it
- 30:43Speaker 5: or you're not. It's one of those things, it seems.
- 30:46Speaker 5: And I didn't have to look in because I love
- 30:48Speaker 5: like when we went to New Orleans recently, I had
- 30:51Speaker 5: to go to Dookie Chase because it's been around since
- 30:53Speaker 5: nineteen forty one and the cooking, you know, like this
- 30:56Speaker 5: is creole, this is what I want. And I was
- 30:59Speaker 5: trying to say there was a there Apparently isn't, but
- 31:01Speaker 5: they did kind of overlap. I wonder if there's any
- 31:04Speaker 5: rivalry that they don't talk about or something.
- 31:07Speaker 3: I'm not sure about that because.
- 31:10Speaker 5: The cat she came, I think Dookie Chase, like I said, started,
- 31:13Speaker 5: I want to say, nineteen forty one, nineteen forty five
- 31:15Speaker 5: or something, So I don't know how big I got
- 31:18Speaker 5: the restaurant itself, or how big Lea Chase was at
- 31:21Speaker 5: that point in time.
- 31:22Speaker 6: So she was younger.
- 31:23Speaker 5: I think she was like twenty something at that point,
- 31:25Speaker 5: so there may not been any overlap.
- 31:27Speaker 6: But I don't think New Orleans is that big.
- 31:30Speaker 4: Yeah, but also considering like how friendly and like hospitable
- 31:35Speaker 4: New Orleans folks from New Orleans are, I'm not sure
- 31:38Speaker 4: if it would have been like you know, it's all
- 31:40Speaker 4: family and it's all love versus any sort of sort
- 31:43Speaker 4: of rivalry. Yeah, I don't know, But I am wondering though, Samantha,
- 31:47Speaker 4: because you do like New Orleans cuisine so much. What
- 31:50Speaker 4: food you enjoy from New Orleans cuisine that you would
- 31:53Speaker 4: have wanted to taste Lena if Lena made it.
- 31:56Speaker 5: Oh oh, Like, there's no doubt I would want all
- 31:59Speaker 5: of it. The oysters, which I am a huge fan
- 32:02Speaker 5: of oysters. It sounds like something that I needed to taste.
- 32:05Speaker 5: But of course the gumbo, because I feel like in
- 32:07Speaker 5: every type of cuisine there's a base, like you start
- 32:10Speaker 5: with something because you know there's a comparison, you know
- 32:14Speaker 5: what I mean, and so like to me, I would
- 32:16Speaker 5: want either that because I feel like if she had
- 32:18Speaker 5: the Gumbo house, she obviously is a queen of gumbo,
- 32:22Speaker 5: like she knows what she's doing there you know, as
- 32:24Speaker 5: well as the fact that, like if people are bragging
- 32:26Speaker 5: that her oysters, it's the best mill of their life.
- 32:29Speaker 5: So it'd be a toss up between those two. But yeah,
- 32:31Speaker 5: I find what I'm in New Orleans, I definitely have
- 32:33Speaker 5: to have at least a good gumbo, some type of
- 32:38Speaker 5: fish dish like it probably like you know, a catfish
- 32:40Speaker 5: dish of swords and and a poor boy.
- 32:44Speaker 6: Those are the things I have to happen on there.
- 32:50Speaker 2: Sounds fair.
- 32:51Speaker 1: You were right, You've hope listeners got a snack before
- 32:54Speaker 1: this need it. Luckily, I'm going to a restaurant with
- 32:59Speaker 1: my that has gumbo, so maybe I can get some there.
- 33:03Speaker 1: I do say, yes, my mom loves gumbo as well,
- 33:08Speaker 1: so it'll be fantastic. Going back to what you were
- 33:12Speaker 1: talking about, Samantha, doctor Jessica B. Harris, who's big in
- 33:17Speaker 1: the food world, is a big food historian and writer
- 33:19Speaker 1: who has some quotes that you can find about Lena Richard.
- 33:24Speaker 1: She's kind of famous for saying the South is north
- 33:28Speaker 1: of here about New Orleans.
- 33:30Speaker 2: So it is a very specific cuisine.
- 33:34Speaker 1: It is a very distinct thing, and I'm sure, like
- 33:40Speaker 1: I can only imagine when she's packing her bags to
- 33:42Speaker 1: go to the north and all.
- 33:44Speaker 2: That make these dishes.
- 33:46Speaker 1: If you've never had something like that, it is I'm
- 33:49Speaker 1: almost jealous that you like that first time.
- 33:52Speaker 3: Yeah, it is life changing.
- 33:54Speaker 5: Like I think about my first encounters in New Orleans
- 33:58Speaker 5: and I'm like, I need this again. Like you think
- 34:01Speaker 5: I'm kidding, Like people would say, oh, because you know,
- 34:03Speaker 5: New Orleans also has become.
- 34:05Speaker 6: It is not become.
- 34:06Speaker 5: Has always been a jazz town, like a little more
- 34:08Speaker 5: lively and fun and like festive, and people go to
- 34:11Speaker 5: drink and such. I'm like, I don't care about any
- 34:13Speaker 5: of the alcohol. Give me all the food. I don't
- 34:16Speaker 5: have stomach room for drinks. I just need the food.
- 34:21Speaker 3: Fear true.
- 34:23Speaker 1: I mean The Simpsons has an entire episode that many
- 34:26Speaker 1: people have fulls about that, So I don't think you're alone.
- 34:33Speaker 1: This was also really timely because we were talking recently
- 34:35Speaker 1: about PBS and cooking shows on PBS. Not that that
- 34:41Speaker 1: was what was happening here, but like that. I don't
- 34:44Speaker 1: think people realize now that we can.
- 34:46Speaker 2: Just go online.
- 34:47Speaker 1: Yes, but how important that was that you would have
- 34:50Speaker 1: somebody who could kind of be with you and talk
- 34:53Speaker 1: to you and talk you through things.
- 34:55Speaker 2: It's a very early form of a.
- 34:58Speaker 1: Parasocial relationship for lot of people, right, and I think
- 35:02Speaker 1: that that was It's something we shouldn't forget in this conversation,
- 35:07Speaker 1: is that was probably really powerful for a lot of
- 35:09Speaker 1: people to have that.
- 35:11Speaker 4: Yes, and I do remember coming across one, at least
- 35:14Speaker 4: one quote from someone who reminisced about watching the show,
- 35:18Speaker 4: so even who actually watched it during the time. And
- 35:20Speaker 4: so we don't have it anymore recorded because it was
- 35:22Speaker 4: live and documentations archiving was different back then, and so unfortunately.
- 35:27Speaker 3: That is lost.
- 35:28Speaker 4: But like you can still hear a little bit about
- 35:30Speaker 4: or read a little bit about the experience that people
- 35:33Speaker 4: had watching it and what they what they learned from it,
- 35:35Speaker 4: and what they got from it. So at least there's that,
- 35:39Speaker 4: you know, that kind of secondary secondary source there to
- 35:42Speaker 4: learn a little bit more about about Lina's cooking.
- 35:46Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, it's a dummer, it's lass, but I think
- 35:50Speaker 1: that at least some of that is preserved.
- 35:55Speaker 5: Her books still out. I just feel like this is
- 35:57Speaker 5: a challenge each of us. Maybe we should all do
- 35:59Speaker 5: a dish and come and talk about it.
- 36:00Speaker 3: Oh my goodness, Oh wow, that.
- 36:03Speaker 6: Was I wonder if some of those ingredients are available though.
- 36:07Speaker 1: Yeah, I love I actually like enjoy reading cookbooks.
- 36:10Speaker 2: Yes, I'd be so into it.
- 36:12Speaker 3: I'm going to pick the thing that requires the least preparation.
- 36:15Speaker 3: Just so y'all know, if there's a salad.
- 36:22Speaker 2: But a salad, it could be.
- 36:25Speaker 3: Very true. You got there's a salad somewhere.
- 36:32Speaker 8: I don't think so, rightbs, Oh my gosh, Okay, well
- 36:43Speaker 8: maybe we'll revisit that in the future, but for now,
- 36:47Speaker 8: thank you so much.
- 36:48Speaker 1: As always Eve's it's always a delight. Where can the
- 36:51Speaker 1: good listeners find you?
- 36:53Speaker 4: Y'all can find me by going straight to my website,
- 36:56Speaker 4: which is Eve's Jeffcoat dot com.
- 36:58Speaker 3: I will spell that.
- 36:59Speaker 4: That is y V S j E F F Coat
- 37:04Speaker 4: dot com. You can sign up for my newsletter there.
- 37:07Speaker 4: You can also go to my instagram that is at
- 37:11Speaker 4: not Apologizing, and then you can go to all of
- 37:15Speaker 4: the other episodes of Sminty in which we're talking about
- 37:19Speaker 4: female first other women in history who were pioneering and
- 37:23Speaker 4: had super cool accomplishments. You can learn about their histories.
- 37:28Speaker 1: Yes, so listeners, please go do that if you haven't
- 37:30Speaker 1: done it already, can't wait till next time. Yves in
- 37:34Speaker 1: the meantime, if you would like to contact us, you can.
- 37:37Speaker 1: You can email us at Hello Stuff Onnever Told You
- 37:39Speaker 1: dot com you can find us someflu skuy at mom
- 37:41Speaker 1: Stuff podcast or on Instagram and TikTok at stuff I
- 37:44Speaker 1: Never Told You for us on YouTube. We have a
- 37:46Speaker 1: new place for merch You can go to Cotton Bureau
- 37:48Speaker 1: and just search us out find us there. And we
- 37:52Speaker 1: have a book can get wherever you get your books.
- 37:54Speaker 1: Thanks as always to a super producer Christina or executive
- 37:56Speaker 1: producer My andercontributor Joey. Thank you and thanks to you
- 37:59Speaker 1: for listening step in the re Told Us production by
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