Latest / The History of Germany: Kingdoms, War, and Rebuilding Europe — Fexingo History / The Cologne Cathedral: 632 Years of Faith and Ambition
Transcript
- Lucas: So we've covered quite a bit of German history from different angles — medieval communities, the Hanseatic League, even the Limes. But I realized we haven't really touched on one of the most iconic structures in all of Germany: the Cologne Cathedral, the Kölner Dom. Luna: Oh, the one that took like six hundred years to build, right? Lucas: Exactly. 632 years, from 1248 to 1880. And it's not just a long construction story — it's a story about ambition, relics, national identity, and even survival through war. The cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage site now, but its history is anything but static. Lucas: Let's start at the beginning. In 1164, Rainald von Dassel, the Archbishop of Cologne, brought the relics of the Three Kings from Milan to Cologne. They were supposedly discovered in the fourth century by Empress Helena and taken to Constantinople, then to Milan, and finally to Cologne. That single act turned Cologne into a major pilgrimage destination. Luna: So the cathedral was built to house those relics? Lucas: Partly. There was an older cathedral, but in 1248, Archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden decided to replace it with a grand Gothic structure that could compete with the French cathedrals — Amiens, Chartres, Reims. The foundation stone was laid on August 15, 1248. The design followed the French Rayonnant Gothic style, with a plan that included a double-aisled nave, a choir, and a ring of chapels. Lucas: The first master builder was Gerhard von Rile, a German architect who had studied in France. Under him and his successors, the choir was completed by 1322. That choir is actually the oldest part of the cathedral, and it's stunning — stained glass windows, carved choir stalls, and the Shrine of the Three Kings, a magnificent gold sarcophagus made by Nicholas of Verdun. Luna: But then construction slowed down, right? I've heard about the famous crane. Lucas: Yes. By the mid-15th century, the south tower had reached a height where a wooden crane was installed to hoist stones. But the project gradually lost momentum — partly because of the Black Death, partly because of shifting priorities. By 1560, construction effectively stopped. The crane became a permanent fixture on the skyline, and the cathedral remained unfinished for almost three centuries. Lucas: During the Reformation and the Thirty Years' War, the cathedral suffered some damage and neglect. There were even plans to tear it down or sell its stones. But it survived, and in the 18th century, the interior was renovated in Baroque style. Still, the giant crane on the south tower was a visible reminder of the incomplete work. Luna: What finally got it finished? Lucas: The Romantic movement in the 19th century. Intellectuals and artists rediscovered medieval art and architecture. Figures like August Reichensperger and Sulpiz Boisserée campaigned for the cathedral's completion. In 1842, King Frederick William IV of Prussia laid a new foundation stone, and the central dombau verein — the Central Cathedral Building Society — was founded to raise funds. They actually used the original medieval plans, which had been rediscovered. Lucas: Work resumed in earnest. The architect Ernst Friedrich Zwirner and later Richard Voigtel oversaw the completion. The towers were finally finished in 1880, reaching 157 meters. The celebration on August 14, 1880, was a huge national event — it coincided with the early years of the German Empire, and the cathedral became a symbol of German unity and identity. Luna: Wait, so the final design was based on the original medieval plans? That's incredible — they kept them that long. Lucas: They did. And it's a big part of why the cathedral feels so cohesive. It's genuinely Gothic, not a 19th-century pastiche. The spires, the flying buttresses, the vast interior — it all follows the original vision. Lucas: Speaking of endurance, the cathedral survived World War II remarkably well. Cologne was heavily bombed — 262 air raids destroyed about 90% of the city center. But the cathedral, while hit by 14 bombs and damaged, remained standing. Some say it's because the pilots used it as a navigation landmark. Others say it was a deliberate decision by the Allies to spare it. Either way, it stood as a symbol of resilience. Luna: I've seen photos of the cathedral surrounded by rubble. It's haunting. Lucas: It is. And the postwar restoration was a huge effort. By 1956, the cathedral was reopened, but repairs continue to this day. The Dombaumeister, the cathedral master builder, oversees a permanent workshop. They're constantly cleaning, restoring stone, and replacing damaged elements. It's a living building. Luna: It really is. And now it's one of the most visited landmarks in Germany — millions of tourists every year. Lucas: And that brings its own challenges. The local government has to balance tourism, preservation, and the fact that it's still an active Catholic cathedral. There are debates about crowd control, the impact of souvenir shops, even the lighting of the facade at night. But it's also a source of pride and revenue for the city. Lucas: You know, speaking of ongoing support — in a way, the cathedral's story is a testament to what sustained effort can achieve. That's something we really appreciate with this show. A couple of dollars a month from listeners genuinely keeps these episodes going. If you've gotten something out of our conversations about Europe and its history, you can find us at buy me a coffee dot com slash fexingo. Luna: Yeah, it's a small thing that makes a real difference for independent history podcasts like this. Lucas: Absolutely. And back to the cathedral — another fascinating chapter is its role in the 2005 World Youth Day, when Pope Benedict XVI visited. That event alone brought over a million participants to Cologne. The cathedral was the spiritual center of it all. Lucas: There's also a darker side: in 1975, the cathedral was the target of a failed bombing attempt by the Red Army Faction. They planted a bomb in the choir, but it was discovered and defused. It's a reminder that even sacred spaces aren't immune to political violence. Luna: I didn't know about that. So the cathedral has seen a lot over the centuries. Lucas: It has. From medieval pilgrims to Napoleon's troops — who used it as a stable and a hay store — to the Nazi era, when the cathedral was left alone but the regime arrested some of its priests. After the war, it became a symbol of reconciliation. In 1948, a service of reconciliation was held there between French and German Catholics. Lucas: One more detail I love: the cathedral's Great Bell, the Petersglocke, is the largest free-swinging bell in the world. It weighs 24 tons and was cast in 1923. It's called 'D'r dicke Pitter' in Kölsch dialect — 'Fat Peter'. It only rings on major holidays and special occasions. Luna: That's a heavy bell. Literally. Lucas: Exactly. And the cathedral's stained glass is also remarkable. The oldest windows date from the 13th century, but one of the most modern is the 'Bayernfenster' — the Bavaria Window — installed in 2007. It was designed by the German artist Gerhard Richter, and it's made of 11,500 pixel-like squares of colored glass. It's a striking contrast to the medieval windows. Luna: So it's not frozen in time — it keeps evolving. Lucas: Exactly. That's what makes it such a fascinating subject. It's a living monument that connects the medieval world to the present day. If you ever get to Cologne, standing inside that vast space, looking up at the ribbed vaults, you really feel the weight of history. Lucas: And I think that's a good place to leave it. Next time we might look at another cathedral or maybe a completely different thread in German history. There's always more to uncover.