Latest / Scalpel and Skin / Is Medical-Grade Skincare Worth It? Vitamin C, Retinol & What Actually Works | EP 11

Transcript

Is Medical-Grade Skincare Worth It? Vitamin C, Retinol & What Actually Works | EP 11 · Scalpel and Skin

• 0:00
  SPEAKER_02: You're 12 years old, you aren't fully developed yet, and you don't need a retinol.
• 0:05
  SPEAKER_01: If you follow a recipe from a Martha Stewart cookbook and you make one of her cakes, just because you add the same ingredients as her does not mean that you baked the same cake.
• 0:16
  SPEAKER_02: The skincare trend that I wish would completely go away is Salmon's firm favorites.
• 0:22
  SPEAKER_02: If you ever hear us say that we are now offering microneedling at Skin Lab, we have been taken over by scrolls.
• 0:52
  SPEAKER_01: And I am extra excited because I have my very good friend, esthetician at Skin Lab, co-hosting with me again today, Melissa Janowski.
• 1:04
  SPEAKER_01: Welcome back.
• 1:06
  SPEAKER_02: It's because everyone likes me better than Dr.
• 1:10
  SPEAKER_01: Yes.
• 1:10
  SPEAKER_01: So Dr.
• 1:11
  SPEAKER_01: Labrasca, damn him for having to be in the OR.
• 1:16
  SPEAKER_02: I know why.
• 1:17
  SPEAKER_02: He acts like he's a really good idea.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_01: He acts like he's a plastic surgeon or something.
• 1:22
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 1:23
  SPEAKER_01: Damn him.
• 1:23
  SPEAKER_01: What a poser.
• 1:24
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, which actually is a job.
• 1:26
  SPEAKER_01: Such a poser.
• 1:28
  SPEAKER_01: But this is a perfect episode to have you co-hosting with me because today we are talking about your love language, medical grade skincare.
• 1:37
  SPEAKER_01: This is your love language.
• 1:39
  SPEAKER_01: My love language is lasers.
• 1:41
  SPEAKER_01: Well, that's also my love language.
• 1:43
  SPEAKER_01: You kind of love that too.
• 1:44
  SPEAKER_01: You have like a you have a lover's trope with medical grade skincare and lasers.
• 1:49
  SPEAKER_01: You do.
• 1:50
  SPEAKER_01: It's a lover's trope.
• 1:51
  SPEAKER_01: It's why choose.
• 1:52
  SPEAKER_01: It's yeah.
• 1:54
  SPEAKER_01: Why choose?
• 1:55
  SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
• 1:56
  SPEAKER_01: So let's talk about it because a lot of people don't really understand what medical grade skincare is.
• 2:05
  SPEAKER_01: And there are a lot of people on social media, um, even some dermatologists on social media, you know, they probably work for Cetophil, but they are talking about.
• 2:19
  SPEAKER_01: But they're, you know, they're saying that medical grade skincare is a marketing term, which to some extent, yes, it's not a regulated term.
• 2:27
  SPEAKER_02: It's not a marketing term.
• 2:28
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's an industry term.
• 2:30
  SPEAKER_02: Like it's not an FDA-approved term.
• 2:34
  SPEAKER_02: It's an industry term with a reason.
• 2:38
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 2:38
  SPEAKER_02: So what does it what does it mean?
• 2:40
  SPEAKER_02: So a medical grade skincare is essentially, like I said, it is skincare that is backed by science, knowledge, research, clinical study.
• 2:54
  SPEAKER_02: You find it most often in a medical practice such as plastic surgery, dermatology, cosmetic, med spa, and it is recommended to you by a professional.
• 3:08
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, I think that is a perfect explanation of what medical grade skincare is.
• 3:15
  SPEAKER_01: So you go to Sephora and they have they have products there, they have vitamin C.
• 3:24
  SPEAKER_01: How, for instance, is that vitamin C different from what you might get that is quote unquote medical grade?
• 3:32
  SPEAKER_01: What's what's the difference?
• 3:33
  SPEAKER_02: It's going to be source, percentage, quality.
• 3:37
  SPEAKER_01: Those are the big ones.
• 3:39
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 3:40
  SPEAKER_01: And and for me, I think for for a lot of the products that we carry, we we only recommend products that have clinical studies.
• 3:50
  SPEAKER_01: I think that's that's so important.
• 3:52
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 3:52
  SPEAKER_02: And I wanna, I'm glad that you actually, you actually said clinical studies.
• 4:00
  SPEAKER_02: Here's the difference.
• 4:01
  SPEAKER_02: You can say that this product has a clinical study, but we also want to know that it's clinically proven.
• 4:09
  SPEAKER_02: And in medical grade skincare, the ones we carry, we only carry the products that have been clinically studied, but clinically proven to work.
• 4:20
  SPEAKER_02: We've seen the results, we've read the science.
• 4:22
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 4:23
  SPEAKER_02: That's the difference.
• 4:24
  SPEAKER_01: That's the difference.
• 4:25
  SPEAKER_01: We're talking about formulations and ingredients and percentages and delivery systems.
• 4:34
  SPEAKER_01: It is not as simple as having a cocktail of a few active ingredients.
• 4:40
  SPEAKER_02: You know, a lot of what you see in the stores is, you know, you're gonna see first ingredient's gonna be water.
• 4:46
  SPEAKER_02: Um, the second or third ingredient's gonna be glycerin, um, maybe some diamethicone as you go down the list.
• 4:54
  SPEAKER_02: Your vitamin C, if we're specifically talking vitamin C, so diamethicone obviously wouldn't be in that.
• 4:59
  SPEAKER_02: Actually, some vitamin C probably is in some of them, yeah.
• 5:03
  SPEAKER_02: It there is in one, but it's a medical grade one.
• 5:05
  SPEAKER_02: But same, same difference.
• 5:07
  SPEAKER_02: When you look at that ingredient list, your vitamin C is so far at the bottom.
• 5:12
  SPEAKER_02: It's fighting for its life at the bottom.
• 5:14
  SPEAKER_02: It's fighting for its life, and it's because that specific product, because it's not necessarily backed by science or you know, available in a prof medical professional's office, it's because there's they're only allowed to put so much of a percentage of an active ingredient in something.
• 5:36
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 5:37
  SPEAKER_01: What I always say is, you know, the so for instance, skin suiticals, they're Cepherolic.
• 5:44
  SPEAKER_01: It's it's a product that we both know and love.
• 5:48
  SPEAKER_01: We recommend it to all of our patients.
• 5:51
  SPEAKER_01: And there's a there are a lot of reasons.
• 5:54
  SPEAKER_01: One being it's the most well-studied vitamin C antioxidant on the market.
• 6:01
  SPEAKER_01: It is published in medical studies, not only for efficacy, but also for safety alongside procedures.
• 6:09
  SPEAKER_01: And their their patent ran out.
• 6:11
  SPEAKER_01: So they had a patent for 15 years.
• 6:13
  SPEAKER_01: The patent ran out last year.
• 6:14
  SPEAKER_01: So now what we're starting to see is all of these C E ferolic dupes coming out.
• 6:19
  SPEAKER_01: Dupes are coming from Joe's and Target.
• 6:22
  SPEAKER_01: And what I would say to that is if you if you follow a recipe from a Martha Stewart cookbook and you make one of her cakes, just because you add the same ingredients as her does not mean that you baked the same cake.
• 6:38
  SPEAKER_04: Exactly.
• 6:39
  SPEAKER_01: And that is is where these products are are vastly different.
• 6:45
  SPEAKER_01: I can't afford medical grade skincare.
• 6:47
  SPEAKER_01: What I mean, I it's it's really expensive, Melissa.
• 6:51
  SPEAKER_01: What what should I what should I do?
• 6:53
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, am I better off just not using anything?
• 6:56
  SPEAKER_02: No, you're absolutely not just using anything.
• 6:59
  SPEAKER_02: Medical grade skincare, the price tag can be high, but guess what?
• 7:03
  SPEAKER_02: The price tag on all of these products these days is high.
• 7:07
  SPEAKER_02: So what I would say to you is, what are what is our goal right now?
• 7:11
  SPEAKER_02: Like what is the number one issue that you want to target to see improvement?
• 7:16
  SPEAKER_02: Because guess what?
• 7:18
  SPEAKER_02: I can get you a good cleanser, a good junk store cleanser.
• 7:21
  SPEAKER_02: What I would say is, you know, invest the money on one or two of the really good medical grade products that are going to give you that desired result.
• 7:32
  SPEAKER_02: And then I will help you build around that with other items.
• 7:38
  SPEAKER_01: Yes.
• 7:39
  SPEAKER_01: So if you so if I'm on a budget and say I'm just I I just want to start working on anti-aging and I can only afford a couple of products.
• 7:50
  SPEAKER_01: My budget, my budget's like 300 bucks, and I kind of want to be able to spend that maybe just once a quarter.
• 7:57
  SPEAKER_01: What what should I get?
• 7:58
  SPEAKER_01: What should I invest in?
• 8:00
  SPEAKER_01: Um, vitamin C and retinol.
• 8:03
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 8:03
  SPEAKER_01: Okay.
• 8:04
  SPEAKER_01: So let's let's talk about those because those are those are two of our favorite products.
• 8:09
  SPEAKER_01: Those are two of our favorite products.
• 8:11
  SPEAKER_01: Why do we why do we love vitamin C so much?
• 8:14
  SPEAKER_02: What does it do?
• 8:15
  SPEAKER_02: Don't we?
• 8:16
  SPEAKER_02: So vitamin C is antioxidant, it's protecting your skin from free radicals.
• 8:21
  SPEAKER_02: It's a tyranase inhibitor, which means it is working to suppress that melanin.
• 8:27
  SPEAKER_02: So, right there off the bat, if you are somebody that struggles with hyperpigmentation, you're worrying about aging, you factor that vitamin C in, she's coming up as that blockade.
• 8:40
  SPEAKER_02: Add her in with a physical sunscreen, you know, you want something titanium or zinc-based, you have a great defense system in place.
• 8:51
  SPEAKER_02: So that's why vitamin C is queen.
• 8:54
  SPEAKER_02: Because she's going to protect anti-age benefits, she's going to be great for nourishing your skin and protecting your barrier.
• 9:01
  SPEAKER_02: That's why we love her.
• 9:03
  SPEAKER_01: Why do we love retinol?
• 9:05
  SPEAKER_02: Listen, retinol is the ultimate tried and true, tested, improved, anti-aging.
• 9:15
  SPEAKER_02: 100%.
• 9:16
  SPEAKER_02: 100%.
• 9:17
  SPEAKER_01: Nothing builds collagen like a retinol or retinoid.
• 9:21
  SPEAKER_02: No, nothing.
• 9:22
  SPEAKER_02: Um, but here's where we're gonna go back to the medical grade.
• 9:28
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, let's talk about this.
• 9:30
  SPEAKER_01: Contrast patient because one of the one of our girlfriends listening, I don't know who, I don't know her name.
• 9:38
  SPEAKER_01: Jennifer, Rachel, some someone out there is saying, I'm gonna use my oil of Olay retinol.
• 9:45
  SPEAKER_01: That's exactly what that was to be.
• 9:47
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I'm gonna use my oil of Olay retinol.
• 9:50
  SPEAKER_01: Why can't I just use that?
• 9:51
  SPEAKER_01: It's half the price.
• 9:52
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, my head.
• 9:54
  SPEAKER_02: Um, you're regenerated.
• 9:58
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, exactly.
• 9:59
  SPEAKER_02: Okay, so again, this is where we're getting into ingredient percentages types of ingredient value.
• 10:10
  SPEAKER_02: Okay, to purchase a good retinol, how do I want to phrase this?
• 10:19
  SPEAKER_02: You can purchase regenerist, you can purchase a retinol at Target or Walgreens, but in order to once again be sold in that method, non-prescription, the amount of it is so small and so buried under all of these different layers that by the time it reaches your actual, it's not getting your dermis.
• 10:45
  SPEAKER_02: Let's just put it that way.
• 10:46
  SPEAKER_01: It's not getting into the middle layer.
• 10:48
  SPEAKER_02: It's probably not even penetrating the corneum or the spinosum, even like sorry, nerd.
• 10:56
  SPEAKER_01: You just you just wanted to say spinosum.
• 10:58
  SPEAKER_02: I really just wanted to say spinosum.
• 11:01
  SPEAKER_02: So it's not getting where it needs to go.
• 11:04
  SPEAKER_02: Where if you purchase a medical grade retinol, we already know it is prescription grade, it is prescription level.
• 11:14
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and that's the big difference is the amount, the delivery, the delivery system.
• 11:21
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, the delivery system.
• 11:23
  SPEAKER_01: It's going to take it where it needs to go.
• 11:26
  SPEAKER_02: It's going to go exactly.
• 11:27
  SPEAKER_02: That vehicle is going to drive it exactly where it needs to go.
• 11:31
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I get it.
• 11:32
  SPEAKER_02: Our mothers, our grandmothers, our great-grandmothers have used oil of Olay.
• 11:36
  SPEAKER_02: I get it.
• 11:37
  SPEAKER_01: They didn't have pharmaceuticals, they didn't have ZO and they didn't have the access or the knowledge of what this stuff could do.
• 11:51
  SPEAKER_02: Also, the chemicals that we have in our products now weren't in those products either.
• 11:59
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 12:00
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 12:00
  SPEAKER_02: So the the makeup is different.
• 12:02
  SPEAKER_02: Totally.
• 12:03
  SPEAKER_02: It's totally different, which is one of the reasons why, and I'm gonna go off on my Sephora tangent now, and I'm really, really sorry.
• 12:10
  SPEAKER_01: Sorry.
• 12:12
  SPEAKER_01: Um Hey, I love a tangent.
• 12:14
  SPEAKER_01: Let's let let's hear it.
• 12:15
  SPEAKER_01: Let's hear your Sephora tangent.
• 12:17
  SPEAKER_02: So I am the mother of a 13-year-old girl, Lily, who is my twin in every sense of the word, which is why I'm probably going to go to an early grave because she has my mouth.
• 12:29
  SPEAKER_02: You have a teenager.
• 12:31
  SPEAKER_02: I have a teenager, but she is obsessed with skincare.
• 12:35
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know where it comes from.
• 12:36
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know how that happened.
• 12:39
  SPEAKER_02: I have no idea.
• 12:41
  SPEAKER_02: Um, but to her credit, you know, we were back to school shopping and she wanted to go to Sephora for makeup.
• 12:47
  SPEAKER_02: And we walk in the door, and of course, the lady's like, 13-year-old jackpot.
• 12:51
  SPEAKER_02: Like, oh, totally.
• 12:53
  SPEAKER_02: How can I help you?
• 12:54
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 12:55
  SPEAKER_02: And she looked right at her and she goes, I'm not one of those Sephora kids.
• 13:01
  SPEAKER_01: She's like, just freaking show me where the mascara is.
• 13:04
  SPEAKER_01: I'm not sure.
• 13:05
  SPEAKER_02: Like literally, she was like, I'm here for rare beauty mascara.
• 13:08
  SPEAKER_01: Don't talk to me.
• 13:11
  SPEAKER_01: She is your daughter.
• 13:12
  SPEAKER_02: She is my daughter.
• 13:14
  SPEAKER_02: But and and and this is why I'm I'm going off on this tangent, is because yes, Sephora's target audience truly right now are teen girls.
• 13:22
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 13:22
  SPEAKER_02: And it's working.
• 13:23
  SPEAKER_02: Team girls.
• 13:24
  SPEAKER_02: It's working family.
• 13:27
  SPEAKER_02: Like it's out of control.
• 13:31
  SPEAKER_02: And these girls are coming in and they're buying whatever product their favorite influencer or celebrity was just using in their get ready with me.
• 13:40
  SPEAKER_02: And they're like, well, this is gonna make me look like her.
• 13:44
  SPEAKER_02: It's not because you're 12 years old, you aren't fully developed yet, and you don't need a retinol.
• 13:52
  SPEAKER_02: What you're doing is destroying your skin barrier and actually aging yourself.
• 13:58
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, please, guys, moms out there.
• 14:02
  SPEAKER_01: Your teenager does not need an anti-aging product.
• 14:07
  SPEAKER_01: For the love of God.
• 14:08
  SPEAKER_01: If they have acne, please treat their acne by all means, but they do not need an anti-aging product.
• 14:16
  SPEAKER_01: They need sunscreen and they need their acne treated.
• 14:19
  SPEAKER_01: They do not need anything else.
• 14:21
  SPEAKER_02: Elementary kids, a cleanser and a sunscreen.
• 14:24
  SPEAKER_02: I know people will be like, a sunscreen?
• 14:26
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 14:27
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 14:27
  SPEAKER_02: Your elementary kid needs a facial daily sunscreen.
• 14:31
  SPEAKER_02: You start protecting them early.
• 14:33
  SPEAKER_02: That's gonna build a habit.
• 14:34
  SPEAKER_02: When you go to middle school, gentle cleanser, this is where acne is popping up.
• 14:39
  SPEAKER_02: That's when you bring them into a professional for the proper acne treatment.
• 14:44
  SPEAKER_02: I am not saying you can't buy an over-the-counter, like I'm a fan of the ordinary.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_02: I love it.
• 14:52
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I know you you like a lot of their a lot of products.
• 14:54
  SPEAKER_02: I like a lot of their product.
• 14:56
  SPEAKER_02: Uh the percentages again aren't to our level, but you know, Lily has acne.
• 15:04
  SPEAKER_02: She has hormonal acne.
• 15:05
  SPEAKER_02: They have a salicylic mask.
• 15:07
  SPEAKER_02: I've gotten it for her.
• 15:08
  SPEAKER_02: She'll put it on maybe once or twice a week.
• 15:12
  SPEAKER_02: Uh-huh.
• 15:12
  SPEAKER_02: It's a it's a it's a healthy, it's a safe amount of salicylic acid for her skin, but that's because I know what I'm doing.
• 15:20
  SPEAKER_02: But for acne treatments, you know, get them on the right kind of topical or medication, you know, and then when you get to high school, that's when you want to throw in that vitamin C.
• 15:31
  SPEAKER_02: That's it.
• 15:32
  SPEAKER_02: They do not your teenager does not need a 12-step skincare routine that Haley Bieber put together.
• 15:41
  SPEAKER_01: Um seriously, and by the way, sidebar, why is everyone smoking again?
• 15:48
  SPEAKER_01: All like Hailey Bieber has a skincare line and she's puffing cigarettes on the side of the street.
• 15:55
  SPEAKER_01: They all do.
• 15:56
  SPEAKER_01: It's like it's the Hollywood diet.
• 15:59
  SPEAKER_02: That's never changed.
• 16:00
  SPEAKER_01: No, this is wild to me.
• 16:03
  SPEAKER_02: But the fact that they're that we're connecting, like, you know, hey, I have this skincare line.
• 16:07
  SPEAKER_02: I'm gene smoking.
• 16:09
  SPEAKER_02: Like, right.
• 16:10
  SPEAKER_01: This it's it is wild.
• 16:12
  SPEAKER_01: Listen, Taylor Swift would never smoke a cigarette.
• 16:15
  SPEAKER_01: I'm just saying.
• 16:17
  SPEAKER_01: No, she doesn't smoke.
• 16:18
  SPEAKER_02: It would be wild.
• 16:19
  SPEAKER_02: No, I swear, I think, I think that there is like a picture of her.
• 16:23
  SPEAKER_02: It might not be a cigarette.
• 16:24
  SPEAKER_02: It might be a side.
• 16:25
  SPEAKER_01: It's AI.
• 16:26
  SPEAKER_01: It's AI.
• 16:27
  SPEAKER_01: Just let me believe that.
• 16:28
  SPEAKER_01: Just let me believe that.
• 16:29
  SPEAKER_01: So, say someone has invested in good skincare and we we love all the products that they're using.
• 16:37
  SPEAKER_01: They're using really potent clinically proven ingredients.
• 16:41
  SPEAKER_01: Can that replace in-office procedures?
• 16:44
  SPEAKER_01: Can it replace lasers, microneedling?
• 16:46
  SPEAKER_01: What do you what are your thoughts?
• 16:48
  SPEAKER_02: It absolutely cannot replace those things.
• 16:51
  SPEAKER_02: Listen, when we look at clinical studies, yes, the clinical studies that we follow and trust are the ones where a patient's been followed for 12 weeks using a general cleanser, the product that's being tested in a sunscreen.
• 17:10
  SPEAKER_02: So we are seeing true result.
• 17:14
  SPEAKER_02: However, skincare is love it, it's amazing.
• 17:19
  SPEAKER_02: I will live and I will die by it, but it's not going to lift your skin.
• 17:25
  SPEAKER_02: It's not going to tighten your skin.
• 17:28
  SPEAKER_02: It's not going to revolumize your skin.
• 17:32
  SPEAKER_02: It's going to support what you do in the office.
• 17:39
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, absolutely.
• 17:41
  SPEAKER_01: You'll get better results.
• 17:42
  SPEAKER_01: Better results.
• 17:44
  SPEAKER_01: You might need fewer procedures, especially if you're on, you know, if you're getting, for instance, a laser for pigmentation and you're on a good pigment inhibitor and a good retinoid or retinol, you very well could shave off one or two laser treatments.
• 17:59
  SPEAKER_02: Which is one of the main reasons why if I'm seeing somebody new, or let's say somebody wants to kind of revamp, I go straight to the skincare and I will put them on the skincare that we need to address their concern.
• 18:16
  SPEAKER_02: And I won't touch them with a device for at least four to six weeks because I want that skincare.
• 18:25
  SPEAKER_02: I want those ingredients to start working in the skin so they respond better to what we're doing.
• 18:33
  SPEAKER_02: And that's where you're gonna see they might knock off a treatment or two.
• 18:37
  SPEAKER_01: And that's how we maintain.
• 18:39
  SPEAKER_01: They need to maintain their results after they've invested in a laser package.
• 18:44
  SPEAKER_01: You've got to do the work at home.
• 18:46
  SPEAKER_01: It's like you, it's like you go to the dentist twice a year and get your teeth cleaned.
• 18:52
  SPEAKER_01: You don't not brush your teeth in between.
• 18:54
  SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
• 18:55
  SPEAKER_02: It's like getting a car and not buying the warranty and driving off the lot and getting in an accident.
• 19:01
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 19:03
  SPEAKER_01: And another thing I think worth noting too is that we we work with patients, a lot of patients, um, with um higher Fitzpatrick skin types, meaning patients of of color, skin of color.
• 19:18
  SPEAKER_01: And those patients are higher risk for pigmentation changes after energy-based devices, chemical peels, lasers, microneedling, those sorts of things.
• 19:29
  SPEAKER_01: So they have to be pre-treated.
• 19:32
  SPEAKER_01: They have to be pre-treated.
• 19:34
  SPEAKER_01: If their skin is not prepped, they're at higher risk for complications.
• 19:38
  SPEAKER_02: 100%.
• 19:40
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's it's showing up to class, getting your lesson, doing the homework, and taking the test.
• 19:47
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 19:48
  SPEAKER_02: That's essentially what it is.
• 19:51
  SPEAKER_02: You know, your your homework is starting that skincare.
• 19:54
  SPEAKER_02: That's your study process.
• 19:55
  SPEAKER_02: The test is when you sit down for the procedure.
• 19:58
  SPEAKER_02: So pre-treating the skin before anything is so important.
• 20:04
  SPEAKER_01: Let's do a rapid fire.
• 20:06
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, okay.
• 20:07
  SPEAKER_01: Okay.
• 20:08
  SPEAKER_01: Rapid fire.
• 20:08
  SPEAKER_01: Ready?
• 20:09
  SPEAKER_01: I'm gonna say the I'm gonna say the product, and you're just gonna say worth it or skip it.
• 20:17
  SPEAKER_01: Ready?
• 20:17
  SPEAKER_01: Okay, hold on.
• 20:18
  SPEAKER_01: I might have to burp.
• 20:21
  SPEAKER_01: Please leave that in there.
• 20:23
  SPEAKER_04: Okay.
• 20:24
  SPEAKER_01: Okay, ready?
• 20:25
  SPEAKER_01: Did you burp?
• 20:26
  SPEAKER_01: Okay.
• 20:26
  SPEAKER_01: Now I'm suppressing it.
• 20:28
  SPEAKER_01: Vitamin C.
• 20:28
  SPEAKER_01: It's worth it.
• 20:30
  SPEAKER_01: Hyaluronic acid.
• 20:31
  SPEAKER_01: It's worth it.
• 20:32
  SPEAKER_01: Pimple patches.
• 20:33
  SPEAKER_01: Not worth it.
• 20:34
  SPEAKER_01: Sorry, Lily.
• 20:35
  SPEAKER_01: Poor strips.
• 20:36
  SPEAKER_01: Not worth it.
• 20:37
  SPEAKER_01: Peptides.
• 20:38
  SPEAKER_01: Worth it.
• 20:39
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, we love a peptide.
• 20:41
  SPEAKER_01: Double cleansing.
• 20:42
  SPEAKER_01: Worth it to the grave.
• 20:44
  SPEAKER_01: Seriously.
• 20:45
  SPEAKER_01: You guys, when I started double cleansing, I was horrified.
• 20:52
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, it's disgusting.
• 20:54
  SPEAKER_01: What by what wasn't coming off my skin before I learned the art of double cleansing?
• 20:59
  SPEAKER_01: It's disgusting.
• 21:00
  SPEAKER_01: It's terrifying.
• 21:03
  SPEAKER_01: At night, I mean, makeup just gets ground into your pores.
• 21:07
  SPEAKER_01: You have got to double cleanse.
• 21:09
  SPEAKER_01: So what do you do to double cleanse?
• 21:12
  SPEAKER_01: Like what products do you use?
• 21:13
  SPEAKER_01: Because there's a lot of different ways to do it.
• 21:15
  SPEAKER_01: There are I even tell patients, you know, you love your micellar water.
• 21:19
  SPEAKER_01: Fine.
• 21:20
  SPEAKER_01: Use your micellar water to take your makeup off, then cleanse.
• 21:25
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 21:26
  SPEAKER_02: So I personally use um Zio Balancing Cleansing Emotion.
• 21:31
  SPEAKER_02: So the first step.
• 21:33
  SPEAKER_02: I want something emollient that's gonna break it down.
• 21:37
  SPEAKER_02: Break down what's on my skin, break it up, bring it, like you said, bring it back to the surface and just kind of get it there.
• 21:45
  SPEAKER_02: And then I'm gonna wipe that off, and then I'll go in with my cleanser.
• 21:49
  SPEAKER_02: Depending, it's the flavor of the week.
• 21:51
  SPEAKER_02: It's whatever cleanser I feel like using.
• 21:54
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I have many, but that is always my nighttime routine is the balancing cleanser.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: Cleansing emulsion my cleanser, a great another great one would be um the like the Epicutus oil cleanser, any kind of like oil-based cleanser is is really good to use.
• 22:13
  SPEAKER_02: Like you said, it'll just emulsify that makeup.
• 22:16
  SPEAKER_02: You can see it's you just want something to emulsify.
• 22:20
  SPEAKER_02: Um I'm not gonna lie, I've even seen people, I haven't done it, but they'll use like cereb moisturizer to wipe their makeup off, and then they'll cleanse it.
• 22:32
  SPEAKER_02: It seems effective.
• 22:33
  SPEAKER_02: I need to look into it.
• 22:34
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I need to look into it.
• 22:37
  SPEAKER_02: But yeah, double cleanse, worth it.
• 22:40
  SPEAKER_02: Sheet masks.
• 22:41
  SPEAKER_02: Not worth it unless I know you love a sheet mask.
• 22:45
  SPEAKER_01: I knew it was gonna kill you to say not worth it.
• 22:47
  SPEAKER_02: The sheet masks that you get with panda faces and ignoses, not worth it.
• 22:56
  SPEAKER_01: They throw it into your into your uh bag at Sephora your birthday gift, yeah.
• 23:02
  SPEAKER_02: I actually Lily's friend just gave her a bunch of them and I threw them all away.
• 23:06
  SPEAKER_02: It's like you're not putting that shit on your face.
• 23:09
  SPEAKER_02: Good biocellulose mask.
• 23:12
  SPEAKER_02: My favorite mask would be the Epicutus lipid mask.
• 23:19
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, totally.
• 23:20
  SPEAKER_02: I love that mask.
• 23:22
  SPEAKER_02: It is so if a mask does anything, it's that.
• 23:26
  SPEAKER_02: Um in a sheet mask form.
• 23:30
  SPEAKER_02: Biocellulose is also really good to just chill the skin out.
• 23:35
  SPEAKER_02: Um but no, if you have a watermelon scent zebra butt mask on your face, it's not gonna do anything for you, so please don't go away.
• 23:46
  SPEAKER_01: It's like the it's like the bath and body works version of a sheet mask.
• 23:51
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, yeah, no, it's not even it's like the Dollar Tree version of a bath and body works.
• 23:57
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, those the those aren't doing anything.
• 23:59
  SPEAKER_01: I put they're probably gonna hurt more than they'll help.
• 24:03
  SPEAKER_01: Oh, they do they they're loaded with fragrance, so much inflammation, yeah, so many breakouts.
• 24:10
  SPEAKER_01: Just skip it.
• 24:11
  SPEAKER_01: All right, how about eye cream, a separate eye cream?
• 24:15
  SPEAKER_02: Truthfully, not worth it.
• 24:17
  SPEAKER_02: I know.
• 24:17
  SPEAKER_01: I don't think if you're gonna invest it hurts to say it, but it's true.
• 24:21
  SPEAKER_01: You probably I mean, that's that's a luxury item.
• 24:24
  SPEAKER_02: If you want to do it, go for it.
• 24:26
  SPEAKER_02: It's not needed because all of your products can go up here, including retinol, guys.
• 24:35
  SPEAKER_02: Including retinol.
• 24:36
  SPEAKER_02: Like, do you want to do it every night?
• 24:38
  SPEAKER_02: Probably not, but yeah, your retinol can go up here, and guess what's gonna do that work?
• 24:44
  SPEAKER_02: The retinol, not a thick cream, right?
• 24:47
  SPEAKER_02: There most eye creams are just really good hydrators.
• 24:51
  SPEAKER_02: What I do tell people, because I don't use an eye cream, I put aquifure under my eyes at night.
• 24:57
  SPEAKER_01: Oh, yeah.
• 24:58
  SPEAKER_01: When I think you know how sometimes it gets a little, at least for me, I get a little dry in this area, like in the tear trough, especially in the winter time.
• 25:07
  SPEAKER_01: I'll throw a little aquafore on at night, and my makeup goes on so much smoother the next day.
• 25:13
  SPEAKER_02: I put aquifore under my eyes the nights that I don't put my retinol up under my eyes.
• 25:19
  SPEAKER_02: And I get so many compliments.
• 25:21
  SPEAKER_02: And Aquafort for lips too.
• 25:23
  SPEAKER_02: We love it.
• 25:23
  SPEAKER_02: Yep.
• 25:24
  SPEAKER_02: Um, what I love to do is going down the road here, um, skin suiticals HA intensifier serum, which is amazing.
• 25:34
  SPEAKER_02: I'll put that on my lips every night, and then I'll put the aquifer over top of it, and I wake up looking like I had a little lip mask.
• 25:43
  SPEAKER_02: A little lip mask.
• 25:44
  SPEAKER_02: It's just really rejuvenating and it really brings that moisture back to your lips.
• 25:49
  SPEAKER_02: Yes.
• 25:50
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 25:50
  SPEAKER_02: And it tastes like wine.
• 25:51
  SPEAKER_01: It's so good.
• 25:53
  SPEAKER_02: I only you only say that because I told you.
• 25:55
  SPEAKER_01: I know you admitted that I and I can't putting it on and licking it off.
• 25:59
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, now now every time I put it on, I'm like, oh yeah.
• 26:03
  SPEAKER_01: Uh-huh.
• 26:03
  SPEAKER_01: Little little cabernet.
• 26:05
  SPEAKER_01: It tastes like wine.
• 26:08
  SPEAKER_01: All right.
• 26:09
  SPEAKER_01: A couple more.
• 26:10
  SPEAKER_01: Couple more.
• 26:11
  SPEAKER_01: One skincare product people spend too much money on.
• 26:16
  SPEAKER_01: What are we what are we spending too much money on?
• 26:18
  SPEAKER_01: I've got one.
• 26:19
  SPEAKER_01: Collagen creams.
• 26:20
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, we're talking like stupid products.
• 26:23
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, like like let's not spend money, period.
• 26:27
  SPEAKER_01: I wouldn't, if a collagen cream costs one dollar, I wouldn't buy it.
• 26:31
  SPEAKER_02: No.
• 26:32
  SPEAKER_01: Collagen is too large of a protein to penetrate topically.
• 26:36
  SPEAKER_02: I would say any type of high-end moisturizer.
• 26:43
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, yeah, that's a good one.
• 26:44
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 26:45
  SPEAKER_02: Moisture is moisture.
• 26:46
  SPEAKER_02: Moisture's moisture.
• 26:48
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, these Parisian 24 karat La Mer.
• 26:53
  SPEAKER_02: That's the one I was trying to think.
• 26:54
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 26:55
  SPEAKER_02: La Mer.
• 26:56
  SPEAKER_01: Um it's like$400.
• 26:59
  SPEAKER_01: It's it's it's stupid.
• 27:01
  SPEAKER_01: It's stupid expensive.
• 27:03
  SPEAKER_01: And it's moisturizer, guys.
• 27:05
  SPEAKER_01: It does nothing.
• 27:06
  SPEAKER_01: We're not, we're not doing that.
• 27:08
  SPEAKER_01: We're not doing that.
• 27:08
  SPEAKER_01: If you're gonna go budget, you can go budget with a moisturizer, go budget with a cleanser.
• 27:13
  SPEAKER_02: With a cleanser, go with a mineral budget with a sunscreen.
• 27:17
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, a mineral SBF.
• 27:19
  SPEAKER_01: Perfect.
• 27:19
  SPEAKER_01: So that so that's a good next question.
• 27:22
  SPEAKER_01: So, what's one skincare trend you wish would disappear?
• 27:25
  SPEAKER_01: What do you want to go away?
• 27:26
  SPEAKER_01: I know what you want to go away.
• 27:28
  SPEAKER_01: I can't say it anymore.
• 27:30
  SPEAKER_01: You can go ahead.
• 27:31
  SPEAKER_01: What what there was a there was an ingredient that you that you used to not like, but now there's some different formulations and we're kind of liking it.
• 27:41
  SPEAKER_01: What do we like?
• 27:41
  SPEAKER_01: What are we thinking?
• 27:43
  SPEAKER_02: The skincare trend that I wish would completely go away is salmon sperm facials.
• 27:50
  SPEAKER_02: Using it, you know, getting that rubbed on your face as the one ingredient, or you know, pushed into your skin as a glide or a driver for microneedling.
• 28:01
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, we're not doing that.
• 28:02
  SPEAKER_01: We're not doing that.
• 28:04
  SPEAKER_01: We don't like it, we don't like the trend.
• 28:06
  SPEAKER_01: However, the technology is getting better.
• 28:09
  SPEAKER_02: The technology is getting better.
• 28:10
  SPEAKER_02: And this is why I'm not completely changing my position on it.
• 28:15
  SPEAKER_02: I I do not feel that as a standalone rubbed into your skin during a procedure that it's gonna do anything.
• 28:23
  SPEAKER_02: But if you can show me clinically proven results of we'll use the professional term of PDRN, which is sandwiches, um being integrated with other vehicles um that will provide results.
• 28:46
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I'll talk to you about it.
• 28:49
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 28:50
  SPEAKER_02: Because there are studies, but it's the marriage.
• 28:53
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, yes, absolutely.
• 28:59
  SPEAKER_01: So you know, when it first came on the market, it was very new a couple of years ago.
• 29:05
  SPEAKER_01: Everyone was very excited about it.
• 29:06
  SPEAKER_01: It was the it was the trend, it was a buzz, right?
• 29:10
  SPEAKER_01: There were there were hardly any studies.
• 29:12
  SPEAKER_01: Now we're kind of getting some actual real clinical studies.
• 29:16
  SPEAKER_01: So we're coming around to it.
• 29:18
  SPEAKER_02: Jumping to it because Kim Kardashian got it done.
• 29:21
  SPEAKER_02: And that I need, you know, you and I will always say, show me the white papers.
• 29:29
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, absolutely.
• 29:30
  SPEAKER_02: Show me the journals.
• 29:31
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, totally.
• 29:32
  SPEAKER_02: The publications.
• 29:33
  SPEAKER_02: I want to see all the science, the studies before we consider anything.
• 29:38
  SPEAKER_02: Yep.
• 29:39
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and we are seeing, we are seeing some good studies, but it's not it on its own.
• 29:46
  SPEAKER_01: No, we're not we will not be microneedling it uh into the skin.
• 29:51
  SPEAKER_01: We just so that's I mean, that was really good.
• 29:54
  SPEAKER_01: That was a good thank you so much for a good recap of medical grade skincare.
• 30:01
  SPEAKER_01: I think, I think you did a really good job of explaining to everyone why it's important, what the benefits of it are, why we would choose certain things over Sephora versus spending money on something.
• 30:17
  SPEAKER_01: So thank you so much for that.
• 30:19
  SPEAKER_01: And I can't wait to have you back.
• 30:22
  SPEAKER_01: And once once Dr.
• 30:24
  SPEAKER_01: Labrasca's out of surgery, I'm going to tell him that he has been replaced.
• 30:29
  SPEAKER_01: We have scalpel and skin has a new has a new co-host, and and he can just stay in the OR.
• 30:36
  SPEAKER_02: The people have spoken.
• 30:37
  SPEAKER_01: The people let's give the people what they want.
• 30:39
  SPEAKER_01: They want they want more more Melissa.
• 30:42
  SPEAKER_02: And I might, I mean, if the three of us got on here together, the internet might implode.
• 30:47
  SPEAKER_01: So that we have to do it sometime.
• 30:50
  SPEAKER_01: We have to come up with a topic.
• 30:52
  SPEAKER_01: Everybody keep listening.
• 30:54
  SPEAKER_01: Because it's coming.
• 30:55
  SPEAKER_01: It's coming.
• 30:56
  SPEAKER_01: We work together, we're best friends.
• 30:59
  SPEAKER_01: Somehow we still like each other.
• 31:01
  SPEAKER_01: Filling in for Dr.
• 31:02
  SPEAKER_01: Labrasca.
• 31:03
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you so much, Melissa.
• 31:05
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 31:07
  SPEAKER_00: That's it for today's episode of Scalpel and Skin.
• 31:09
  SPEAKER_00: Follow the show wherever you listen and come find us on social media.
• 31:12
  SPEAKER_00: Send us the treatments, trends, or questions you want us to break down next.
• 31:16
  SPEAKER_00: This is Scalpel and Skin.
• 31:18
  SPEAKER_00: Let's go.