Latest / New Worlder / Episode #111: Garima Arora
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_02: This is the New Order Podcast and I am one of your hosts, Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_02: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:08SPEAKER_02: Today we are speaking with Garima Arara,
- 0:11SPEAKER_02: the India-born chef of the two Michelin star restaurant Gha in Bangkok,
- 0:16SPEAKER_02: Thailand.
- 0:17SPEAKER_02: She is the only female Indian chef with two Michelin stars.
- 0:22Garima has been working tirelessly to awaken the transformative
- 0:27potential of Indian
- 0:28SPEAKER_02: cuisine both in India and abroad for many years.
- 0:32SPEAKER_02: She developed a non-profit called Food Forward India that documents,
- 0:36SPEAKER_02: discovers,
- 0:37SPEAKER_02: and catalogs the diversity and complexity of Indian food
- 0:41SPEAKER_02: and the culture surrounding it.
- 0:42SPEAKER_02: She is also a judge on MasterChef India,
- 0:45SPEAKER_02: one of the most wide-reaching culinary television shows on Earth.
- 0:50SPEAKER_02: In our conversation, we speak
- 0:53of how the perception of Indian food has changed since she
- 0:57opened the restaurant.
- 0:59SPEAKER_02: I spent two months in the country when I was 25.
- 1:01SPEAKER_02: This was 20 years ago.
- 1:03SPEAKER_02: I was traveling on third-class trains everywhere,
- 1:05SPEAKER_02: going from the Himalayas in the north to Goa and Hampi in the south,
- 1:10SPEAKER_02: and the border with Pakistan in the west to Varanasi in the east.
- 1:13SPEAKER_02: Aside of being one of the most impactful periods of my life,
- 1:17SPEAKER_02: I tasted so many things that were new to me,
- 1:20SPEAKER_02: and I haven't seen them since.
- 1:22SPEAKER_02: Indian food,
- 1:23the cuisine of this massive landscape with hundreds of
- 1:26ecosystems and more people
- 1:28SPEAKER_02: than any other country on the planet,
- 1:30was for many years reduced to a handful of curries and breads
- 1:34outside of the
- 1:35SPEAKER_02: country.
- 1:35SPEAKER_02: It's so vast and rich, but has been bottled up within India for so long.
- 1:40SPEAKER_02: But suddenly that's starting to change.
- 1:43SPEAKER_02: It's starting to spread.
- 1:44SPEAKER_02: This is a very big moment for Indian food outside of India.
- 1:48SPEAKER_02: Tresen Studio in Dubai was just awarded three Michelin stars.
- 1:52Sema in New York was named the best restaurant in the city by
- 1:55the New York Times
- 1:56SPEAKER_02: just the other day.
- 1:58SPEAKER_02: And within India,
- 1:59SPEAKER_02: there was a lot going on too,
- 2:00SPEAKER_02: not just with fine dining restaurants,
- 2:02SPEAKER_02: but at the street level.
- 2:03SPEAKER_02: There's this energy there that is growing by the day.
- 2:06SPEAKER_02: This is a cuisine,
- 2:07SPEAKER_02: sorry,
- 2:08SPEAKER_02: not a cuisine,
- 2:08SPEAKER_02: but thousands of them that have been overlooked for far too long.
- 2:13Side of trying to juggle parenting with chef life and her
- 2:17career as a journalist,
- 2:18SPEAKER_02: Garima talks about her work at Gha.
- 2:21She tells us about the historic Thai house that was moved in
- 2:24pieces to Bangkok and
- 2:25reassembled with the help of a modern architecture firm to
- 2:29create the setting of
- 2:30SPEAKER_02: the restaurant.
- 2:31She tells us how she cooks the Thai fruit durian on a tandoor
- 2:36oven as her main
- 2:37SPEAKER_02: course,
- 2:37SPEAKER_02: which sounds like the most delicious thing ever.
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- 4:05SPEAKER_02: Hi, Garima.
- 4:05SPEAKER_02: How are you?
- 4:07SPEAKER_01: I'm great.
- 4:08SPEAKER_01: Doing really well.
- 4:09SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
- 4:09SPEAKER_01: How about you?
- 4:11SPEAKER_02: Great.
- 4:13SPEAKER_02: You just had a baby, right?
- 4:16SPEAKER_01: Very recently.
- 4:17SPEAKER_01: Yes, I did.
- 4:19SPEAKER_01: I don't normally look like this.
- 4:21SPEAKER_01: I look better rested.
- 4:24SPEAKER_01: Yes, my daughter, she is now three months old.
- 4:27SPEAKER_02: Three months, okay.
- 4:28SPEAKER_02: Now, how is having two now?
- 4:31SPEAKER_02: Is it hard to juggle?
- 4:33SPEAKER_02: Harder than you expected?
- 4:35SPEAKER_01: Definitely.
- 4:37SPEAKER_02: I have two as well.
- 4:39SPEAKER_02: The second one, just having that on top of another young child is like
- 4:45It like,
- 4:46it's so much harder just because you're trying to manage both
- 4:49of them.
- 4:50SPEAKER_02: Well, now they're older.
- 4:51SPEAKER_02: They're 10 and seven.
- 4:52SPEAKER_01: Tell me it gets better.
- 4:55SPEAKER_02: It does.
- 4:55SPEAKER_02: It does.
- 4:56SPEAKER_02: Like now they're so independent.
- 4:59SPEAKER_02: Like it's, it's amazing.
- 5:00SPEAKER_02: Like how little I need to do.
- 5:02SPEAKER_02: I still need to do a lot obviously because they're kids,
- 5:05SPEAKER_02: but like they can make themselves dinner if they want to,
- 5:08SPEAKER_02: they can,
- 5:09SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 5:10SPEAKER_02: get up and shower by themselves and get dressed and clean their rooms and
- 5:16SPEAKER_02: But it does take a few years to get to that point,
- 5:19SPEAKER_02: and it seems like it's never going to end,
- 5:21SPEAKER_02: and you're just pulling your hair out all the time,
- 5:23SPEAKER_02: and you're just so fucking tired all the time for years that you're like,
- 5:29SPEAKER_02: how could this ever change?
- 5:31SPEAKER_02: But then it's like they grow up so fast.
- 5:33SPEAKER_02: And Juliana, you have one that's moving to New York now.
- 5:36SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 5:37SPEAKER_02: I don't even know how that feels.
- 5:39You guys are making me feel that it's easy to have just one and
- 5:43that it's in college.
- 5:47SPEAKER_00: He's about to finish college.
- 5:48SPEAKER_00: He has one year left.
- 5:51SPEAKER_00: Yeah, but it looks so easy in comparison with what you were saying.
- 5:55SPEAKER_00: I probably forgot part of it,
- 5:57SPEAKER_00: but I have heard that it's...
- 5:58SPEAKER_02: Two is just so much...
- 5:59SPEAKER_02: It just becomes so much harder,
- 6:00SPEAKER_02: but then at some point,
- 6:04SPEAKER_02: the two kids connect.
- 6:05SPEAKER_02: that it balances out in a way that I think makes it extra helpful.
- 6:10SPEAKER_00: How old is your other kid, Karima?
- 6:14SPEAKER_01: My older one is two.
- 6:17SPEAKER_01: Yeah, so I'm literally living the two under two.
- 6:22SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and it's a different kind of beast as I'm figuring out.
- 6:26SPEAKER_02: You make it through.
- 6:27It's like,
- 6:28it's almost like opening a restaurant,
- 6:30you know,
- 6:30it's just like,
- 6:31I'm sure like.
- 6:31SPEAKER_02: No, it's not.
- 6:32SPEAKER_01: It's much more organized opening a restaurant.
- 6:35SPEAKER_01: I compare it so many times.
- 6:37SPEAKER_01: I feel like, you know, you can be prepped.
- 6:38SPEAKER_01: You can have your misoplast.
- 6:40SPEAKER_01: You can label all your containers.
- 6:41SPEAKER_01: You can, you know, you have everything ready.
- 6:43SPEAKER_01: And suddenly you realize you've been prepping the wrong cuisine.
- 6:47SPEAKER_01: It's no longer in India.
- 6:48SPEAKER_01: It's just you've been prepping for the.
- 6:50SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 6:50SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 6:51SPEAKER_01: So.
- 6:53SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 6:53SPEAKER_01: you think you're opening an Indian restaurant,
- 6:54SPEAKER_01: but no,
- 6:55SPEAKER_01: all your diners are expecting Italian.
- 6:56SPEAKER_01: So what now?
- 6:59SPEAKER_01: So it's one of those things.
- 7:02SPEAKER_01: Well, congratulations.
- 7:04SPEAKER_02: Yeah, congratulations.
- 7:04SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 7:05SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 7:06SPEAKER_02: All right.
- 7:06SPEAKER_02: So let's talk about something else.
- 7:09SPEAKER_02: This just tires me thinking about raising children.
- 7:11SPEAKER_01: Talk about your older babies.
- 7:14SPEAKER_02: Anyway, Indian food is having a moment right now, right?
- 7:17SPEAKER_02: Why is that?
- 7:19SPEAKER_01: Definitely.
- 7:20SPEAKER_01: I think it's about time, isn't it?
- 7:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 7:24SPEAKER_01: I think a lot of things are contributing to that.
- 7:28SPEAKER_01: For once, I think Indian chefs are now kind of championing.
- 7:34I wouldn't say real Indian food,
- 7:35but diverse Indian food,
- 7:38regional Indian food.
- 7:40SPEAKER_01: You know, India is full of micro cuisines, I feel.
- 7:45SPEAKER_01: vast geographical region.
- 7:47SPEAKER_01: Every little part has its own history, own story to tell.
- 7:52And I think Indian cooks are now going beyond the curries and
- 7:57the naans and
- 7:58showcasing what's actually possible with Indian cuisine and
- 8:02Indian cooking.
- 8:02SPEAKER_01: So yeah, I think that's also kind of helping things along.
- 8:07SPEAKER_02: How did it become so reduced?
- 8:09SPEAKER_02: Is that just, you know, colonialism?
- 8:12SPEAKER_02: It was just like exported?
- 8:13SPEAKER_01: Definitely.
- 8:14SPEAKER_02: Yeah, that's it?
- 8:15SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 8:16SPEAKER_01: I think the curry house itself is such an alien word or term to us.
- 8:19SPEAKER_01: The word curry is such an alien term to us.
- 8:22SPEAKER_01: It doesn't exist in our cooking.
- 8:23SPEAKER_01: It doesn't exist in the way we eat.
- 8:26SPEAKER_01: But yeah, I think for the longest time, we've been exporting
- 8:30this version of Indian cuisine that is seen from the eyes of an
- 8:37outsider or has
- 8:38SPEAKER_01: been experienced from the palate of an outsider.
- 8:41SPEAKER_01: And we played along because, you know,
- 8:46SPEAKER_01: when Indian cooks went outside of the country,
- 8:49wanted to cook and had to cook something that they knew people
- 8:52would enjoy,
- 8:53SPEAKER_01: was something that people understood before,
- 8:55SPEAKER_01: and then that is what it was.
- 8:57SPEAKER_01: Yeah, as time goes on, that changes.
- 9:01The need to play to that crowd or that version of Indian food,
- 9:10yeah,
- 9:10that diminishes.
- 9:11SPEAKER_01: So that makes a difference for sure.
- 9:15SPEAKER_02: What more needs to happen?
- 9:17SPEAKER_02: Like, how more can you change that?
- 9:18SPEAKER_02: Because there's still this expectation by a lot of the world,
- 9:24SPEAKER_02: and this isn't just with Indian food,
- 9:25SPEAKER_02: that it should be inexpensive.
- 9:28SPEAKER_02: You know, it should be cheap.
- 9:29SPEAKER_02: It should be just these, just rice with, you know, curry.
- 9:34SPEAKER_02: How do you break out of that?
- 9:37SPEAKER_01: I think it's changed a lot.
- 9:38SPEAKER_01: When we opened Gaa eight years ago, it was very different.
- 9:40Honestly,
- 9:41we had diners come in expecting curry and naan,
- 9:43and obviously we never served that.
- 9:44SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we had a lot of unhappy diners eight years, nine years ago.
- 9:49But I find that chefs opening restaurants now don't kind of
- 9:54have to deal with that.
- 9:55SPEAKER_01: People have already come to expect...
- 9:59SPEAKER_01: a version of Indian cuisine, which is not that.
- 10:02I think they come to restaurants like ours and maybe probably
- 10:07feel underwhelmed if
- 10:09SPEAKER_01: you serve them a curry or naan or a version of that even,
- 10:12SPEAKER_01: right?
- 10:14This is a change I have seen in my diners over the last eight
- 10:17years since we opened GASO.
- 10:20Yeah,
- 10:20I think the change is quite naturally happening and it's taking
- 10:25its own course.
- 10:27I think what needs to happen is probably a little bit more of a
- 10:31push from the
- 10:37SPEAKER_01: beholders of Indian cuisine and the gatekeepers of Indian cuisine,
- 10:42SPEAKER_01: bureaucratic change,
- 10:43SPEAKER_01: political will,
- 10:44SPEAKER_01: all of that kind of plays in.
- 10:47SPEAKER_01: Yeah, so it's about time.
- 10:48SPEAKER_01: I think as India grows,
- 10:50SPEAKER_01: as an economy grows,
- 10:53SPEAKER_01: as a nation comes into its own,
- 10:57SPEAKER_01: cuisine will also find its place.
- 11:00SPEAKER_02: For female chefs, do they get the recognition they deserve in India?
- 11:06SPEAKER_01: I mean, define a female chef.
- 11:09SPEAKER_01: Is it my mom who's cooking in her home kitchen?
- 11:13SPEAKER_02: All kinds, I guess.
- 11:15SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 11:16SPEAKER_02: Like every level from the Michelin slash show.
- 11:19SPEAKER_02: You think they get the recognition they deserve?
- 11:22SPEAKER_01: I've always felt that,
- 11:23SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 11:23SPEAKER_01: there's never been a conspiracy to keep women out of commercial kitchens.
- 11:27That's just that's not how I have had experienced this industry
- 11:32at all ever.
- 11:33SPEAKER_01: It's it's a tough place to be.
- 11:35SPEAKER_01: It's a physically very demanding job.
- 11:39SPEAKER_01: It's it's ridiculous hours is the sacrifices that it takes from a woman.
- 11:44SPEAKER_01: It's very different from the ask from a man.
- 11:48SPEAKER_01: And I find that more so now that I have two kids.
- 11:51SPEAKER_01: I mean, I can go on from 9 a.m.
- 11:55SPEAKER_01: to 12 a.m.
- 11:55SPEAKER_01: in my restaurant if I wanted to, but I can't.
- 11:59SPEAKER_01: And that means, yes, I have to say no to work.
- 12:01SPEAKER_01: I have to say no to some opportunities.
- 12:03I have to prioritize because my kids need me and I can only do
- 12:07that as a mother.
- 12:09SPEAKER_01: And only a mother can do that for their kids.
- 12:12SPEAKER_01: So yes,
- 12:12SPEAKER_01: of course,
- 12:13SPEAKER_01: it's not an easy profession for women to be in,
- 12:16SPEAKER_01: but that's the nature of the job.
- 12:21SPEAKER_01: Again, the ask is changing.
- 12:24SPEAKER_01: For the longest time, it's been sort of a blue-collar
- 12:27SPEAKER_01: job.
- 12:28SPEAKER_01: It's changing.
- 12:29It's kind of attracting more Harvard graduates and it's
- 12:33becoming a white collar job.
- 12:34It's probably more intellectual now to be a chef than it was 10
- 12:39years ago.
- 12:39SPEAKER_01: I think that helps.
- 12:41SPEAKER_01: That helps to see more women in the profession.
- 12:46It gives a woman a chance to balance both personal and
- 12:48professional life because
- 12:50it's not fair to ask that of a woman to kind of have to
- 12:53sacrifice everything just
- 12:55SPEAKER_01: for work.
- 12:57SPEAKER_01: and also the other way around.
- 12:59SPEAKER_00: You were a journalist before, right?
- 13:03SPEAKER_00: How was that transition and what made you to decide to go for this?
- 13:09SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I started to be a journalist.
- 13:10SPEAKER_01: I went to a media school.
- 13:12SPEAKER_01: I studied mass media, studied journalism.
- 13:15SPEAKER_01: I worked in a newspaper for all of eight months.
- 13:19SPEAKER_01: I wasn't very good at it.
- 13:23SPEAKER_01: Cooking was always kind of the back of my mind.
- 13:27I thought once I went in my Pulitzer,
- 13:29I'll go open a restaurant somewhere.
- 13:32SPEAKER_01: But yeah, I think I realized very soon that if I wanted to be a chef,
- 13:37SPEAKER_01: It's a young person's game.
- 13:39SPEAKER_01: It's a physically demanding job.
- 13:41SPEAKER_01: And if I wanted to do that, now would be the time.
- 13:43SPEAKER_01: And this was in, it was barely 20, 21.
- 13:46SPEAKER_01: So yeah, that's when I decided to make that switch and jump.
- 13:51SPEAKER_02: What were you reporting on?
- 13:53SPEAKER_01: Business.
- 13:55SPEAKER_01: So I was on the business beat.
- 13:56SPEAKER_01: I was, I mean, it was my first job.
- 14:00SPEAKER_01: I did an internship in a news channel, which I think still runs in India.
- 14:05SPEAKER_01: I worked at Indian Express,
- 14:06SPEAKER_01: a very reputable newspaper,
- 14:09SPEAKER_01: and then I was covering the business speed.
- 14:13It still seems like communication is a very important part of
- 14:17how you cook and how you see food.
- 14:18SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 14:20SPEAKER_02: do you think of that a lot,
- 14:21SPEAKER_02: how you apply what you learned in journalism to running your restaurant?
- 14:27SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 14:28SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 14:28SPEAKER_01: the basic tenets of journalism,
- 14:30SPEAKER_01: the when,
- 14:31SPEAKER_01: where,
- 14:31SPEAKER_01: what,
- 14:31SPEAKER_01: why,
- 14:32SPEAKER_01: and how,
- 14:33SPEAKER_01: I think I kind of do apply that to my cooking as well.
- 14:35SPEAKER_01: It helps me think through a recipe.
- 14:37SPEAKER_01: It helps me think through a new dish, say, we were putting on a menu.
- 14:44We kind of have to be able to answer why this dish,
- 14:47why this moment in the menu.
- 14:50uh how do we put it together who's going to be eating it the
- 14:53all these questions i
- 14:54think when you ask these questions and you kind of get uh and
- 14:57you're able to answer
- 14:58them those dishes kind of land better i've never thought of it
- 15:02like that but
- 15:02especially like a tasting menu like i wish more chefs would
- 15:07think of it like that
- 15:08you know or because so many times there's just something that's
- 15:12totally out of
- 15:12place it doesn't need to be there they haven't thought the
- 15:15story through the
- 15:17SPEAKER_02: concept
- 15:18SPEAKER_02: And it does fall flat.
- 15:20SPEAKER_02: And even if it tastes delicious,
- 15:23SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 15:25SPEAKER_02: it's just it doesn't always,
- 15:27SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 15:27SPEAKER_02: it disrupts the flow of information that's coming.
- 15:30SPEAKER_02: And sometimes the tasting menu,
- 15:32SPEAKER_02: I think,
- 15:33SPEAKER_02: is as much flow of information as it is flow of flavors.
- 15:38SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's like reading through an article, right?
- 15:40You have a headline,
- 15:41you have a subheading,
- 15:42you have an introduction,
- 15:43you have the main body.
- 15:45And then you wrap it up with,
- 15:49well,
- 15:49in this case,
- 15:50something sweet,
- 15:50right?
- 15:52So if you have these clickbait articles these days where it
- 15:56draws you in and then
- 15:57you read through it and it's so frustrating at the end of it
- 15:59and you're like,
- 16:00SPEAKER_01: why?
- 16:00SPEAKER_01: Why did I have to go through that?
- 16:03SPEAKER_01: Sometimes tasting menus can be like that.
- 16:05SPEAKER_02: Totally, totally.
- 16:08SPEAKER_02: Clickbait tasting menus, absolutely.
- 16:10SPEAKER_01: That's very from here.
- 16:11SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 16:13SPEAKER_02: So you, you stopped journalism.
- 16:16SPEAKER_02: You said, I want to cook.
- 16:18SPEAKER_02: What was your first step?
- 16:20SPEAKER_01: was breaking it to my parents.
- 16:22SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 16:24SPEAKER_01: you have to understand,
- 16:25SPEAKER_01: growing up in the 90s in India,
- 16:27SPEAKER_01: a girl is...
- 16:28SPEAKER_01: I'm blessed with really sort of visionary or forward-thinking parents.
- 16:35SPEAKER_01: I'm extremely lucky.
- 16:37SPEAKER_01: Not every girl gets that or has that.
- 16:43SPEAKER_01: It was first telling my parents that this is what I wanted to do.
- 16:47SPEAKER_01: I wanted to go and study.
- 16:50SPEAKER_01: cooking of all the things.
- 16:51My father had always told me that I may not be able to give you
- 16:56a lot of money in
- 16:58SPEAKER_01: your lifetime,
- 16:58SPEAKER_01: but one thing I will always pay for is your education.
- 17:01SPEAKER_01: So whatever you want to study,
- 17:02SPEAKER_01: whenever you want to study,
- 17:03SPEAKER_01: you come and tell me,
- 17:04SPEAKER_01: and I'll pay for that.
- 17:05SPEAKER_01: And he expected me to do an MBA.
- 17:09That's what Indian kids normally do,
- 17:12maybe a post-grad in journalism,
- 17:14a doctorate or something.
- 17:16SPEAKER_01: And I went up to him and said I wanted to be a cook.
- 17:20SPEAKER_01: And he was really happy.
- 17:22SPEAKER_01: He loves to eat.
- 17:24SPEAKER_01: He loves to eat.
- 17:25And I get my joy of cooking from him because I saw him cooking
- 17:30a lot growing up.
- 17:31SPEAKER_01: And we spent a lot of time in the kitchen together.
- 17:32SPEAKER_01: So yeah, so he was very happy.
- 17:36SPEAKER_01: He didn't think I'd probably
- 17:38you know,
- 17:38do everything that I did after and actually make a career out
- 17:41of it.
- 17:42He just thought that,
- 17:43you know,
- 17:43I'd come back and cook really good meals for him.
- 17:46SPEAKER_01: I do still cook for him,
- 17:49SPEAKER_01: but yeah,
- 17:50SPEAKER_01: he never expected me to go down this road because it was unheard of,
- 17:57SPEAKER_01: unheard of for male chefs and completely unheard of for,
- 18:03SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 18:04young Indian girl kind of wanting to do this and leaving the
- 18:07country to kind of
- 18:09SPEAKER_01: chase after all these dreams and these restaurants and this kind of,
- 18:13SPEAKER_01: live this kind of life.
- 18:15SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 18:17SPEAKER_01: My mom's first question was, when would I get married?
- 18:20SPEAKER_01: I was all of 20.
- 18:20SPEAKER_01: But that's an Asian mom for you.
- 18:24SPEAKER_01: They look out, that's important to them.
- 18:27SPEAKER_02: The idea to go abroad, you studied in France, right?
- 18:31SPEAKER_02: In Paris?
- 18:33SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 18:34SPEAKER_02: So the idea was right away, cook at a very high level.
- 18:38SPEAKER_02: It wasn't just go open a restaurant.
- 18:39SPEAKER_02: It was go learn at a very high level.
- 18:44SPEAKER_02: Were you exposed to that growing up?
- 18:47SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we're competitive.
- 18:49SPEAKER_01: Not this kind of cooking.
- 18:50I think we're competitive when it comes to,
- 18:53we take education very seriously in India,
- 18:56right?
- 18:57Especially,
- 18:57I mean,
- 19:00things obviously are changing now and professions are changing.
- 19:02SPEAKER_01: But growing up, opportunities were limited.
- 19:07SPEAKER_01: Professions were limited.
- 19:08SPEAKER_01: Choices were limited.
- 19:09SPEAKER_01: You either grew up to be a doctor,
- 19:10SPEAKER_01: engineer,
- 19:11SPEAKER_01: one of those professions,
- 19:12SPEAKER_01: one of those high-paying professions.
- 19:15SPEAKER_01: So and every time you would go down that road,
- 19:19you would want to get the best education because that would
- 19:21promise the best
- 19:23SPEAKER_01: future.
- 19:23So I think this is something which is inculcated in Indian kids
- 19:26from a very young
- 19:27SPEAKER_01: age where you are hyper competitive and you seek out the best education,
- 19:31SPEAKER_01: the best opportunities.
- 19:32SPEAKER_01: So for me,
- 19:33SPEAKER_01: I think it was but natural that,
- 19:34SPEAKER_01: okay,
- 19:34SPEAKER_01: if I had to do this,
- 19:35SPEAKER_01: I would want to work at the best restaurants.
- 19:37SPEAKER_01: I want to stay in the best school.
- 19:39SPEAKER_01: I want to do it the best way possible.
- 19:43Although I never fit into that competitive scheme of things
- 19:46back home growing up,
- 19:47SPEAKER_01: I was more of,
- 19:49SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 19:49SPEAKER_01: I did my own thing.
- 19:50SPEAKER_01: I never fell in line with those, as far as that system was concerned.
- 19:55But I think part of it kind of rubbed off and made me chase my
- 20:00dreams harder.
- 20:01SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 20:02SPEAKER_02: All right.
- 20:03SPEAKER_02: So you go to France,
- 20:04SPEAKER_02: you go,
- 20:05SPEAKER_02: where did,
- 20:06SPEAKER_02: and you start working at,
- 20:08SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 20:09SPEAKER_02: high level restaurants,
- 20:10SPEAKER_02: you worked at Noma for,
- 20:11SPEAKER_02: for how long?
- 20:13SPEAKER_01: Uh, two years.
- 20:14SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 20:15SPEAKER_02: And what was that experience like for you?
- 20:18SPEAKER_01: That was,
- 20:19SPEAKER_01: I think that's the best investment I've made in,
- 20:21SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 20:21SPEAKER_01: in,
- 20:22SPEAKER_01: in,
- 20:22SPEAKER_01: in my life for my career in my,
- 20:24SPEAKER_01: for me,
- 20:26SPEAKER_01: I,
- 20:26SPEAKER_01: I went there as an intern.
- 20:28SPEAKER_01: An unpaid intern,
- 20:29I know they don't do that anymore because they received a lot
- 20:32of backlash for it,
- 20:33but I would trade my time 100 times over for the experience I
- 20:37got there for
- 20:37SPEAKER_01: nothing.
- 20:39SPEAKER_01: And it taught me a lot.
- 20:42SPEAKER_01: It taught me not just how to cook.
- 20:46SPEAKER_01: You don't walk away from a restaurant like Norma with the recipes.
- 20:49SPEAKER_01: That does not work.
- 20:50SPEAKER_01: You walk away with a mindset, a way of thinking.
- 20:53SPEAKER_01: And it changed me.
- 20:56SPEAKER_01: Well,
- 20:56SPEAKER_01: not only as a cook,
- 20:57SPEAKER_01: as a person,
- 20:57SPEAKER_01: it taught me to think about where I came from,
- 21:02SPEAKER_01: my cuisine,
- 21:06SPEAKER_01: how would I take,
- 21:07SPEAKER_01: what would I do with Indian cooking?
- 21:08SPEAKER_01: I think it taught me all of that.
- 21:10So you're at Noma for a couple of years,
- 21:12then you moved to Thailand to work with Gagan.
- 21:16SPEAKER_02: You went straight from Noma?
- 21:18SPEAKER_01: That's correct.
- 21:19So I think Gagan at that point was opening a restaurant in
- 21:22India and he was looking
- 21:23SPEAKER_01: for a head chef.
- 21:24SPEAKER_01: And I wanted to move back
- 21:26SPEAKER_01: to be close to my then boyfriend, now husband.
- 21:30SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 21:30SPEAKER_01: I moved to Thailand to spend a couple of months in his kitchen here,
- 21:34SPEAKER_01: in Gagan's kitchen here,
- 21:35SPEAKER_01: and the restaurant in India never happened.
- 21:40SPEAKER_01: One thing led to another,
- 21:41SPEAKER_01: and I met investors in Bangkok,
- 21:43SPEAKER_01: and they offered to do a restaurant with me,
- 21:48SPEAKER_01: and that's how Gagan was born.
- 21:50You're cooking Indian food in Bangkok with Gagan,
- 21:53and then cooking Indian food in Bangkok
- 21:55SPEAKER_02: with your own restaurant.
- 21:57So how did you,
- 21:58did you think,
- 21:59like,
- 21:59I have to make this very different from Gagan?
- 22:03SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 22:04SPEAKER_01: to be honest,
- 22:04I only worked at Gagan's restaurant for three or four months
- 22:07while GAA was being
- 22:08SPEAKER_01: built up.
- 22:09SPEAKER_01: So,
- 22:10SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 22:10SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 22:11SPEAKER_01: I,
- 22:11SPEAKER_01: I didn't have much to contribute to his,
- 22:13SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 22:13SPEAKER_01: his restaurant and probably didn't take much away either,
- 22:16SPEAKER_01: but,
- 22:16SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 22:18SPEAKER_01: Yeah, just to clarify, he was an investor in Ga earlier.
- 22:23SPEAKER_01: Him and the other investors, again, I think they all broke apart.
- 22:29SPEAKER_01: And when they did, I moved away and opened Ga by myself.
- 22:32SPEAKER_01: So we were together.
- 22:33SPEAKER_01: I think this was during COVID when everybody decided to part ways.
- 22:37SPEAKER_01: So, yeah, I didn't spend a lot of time at Ga Ga, to be honest.
- 22:42SPEAKER_02: But still, like, just thinking, you're in Bangkok.
- 22:46SPEAKER_02: How many...
- 22:48SPEAKER_02: high-level fine-dining Indian restaurants, could there be?
- 22:52Like,
- 22:52did you think in your head,
- 22:53like,
- 22:54I have to make this very different from what he's doing?
- 22:58SPEAKER_01: I mean, yes and no.
- 22:58SPEAKER_01: I think our approach to food is very different.
- 23:01SPEAKER_01: I don't know whether you've eaten at his restaurant or...
- 23:04SPEAKER_02: I haven't been to his restaurant,
- 23:05SPEAKER_02: but I've had his,
- 23:06SPEAKER_02: like,
- 23:07SPEAKER_02: he did a pop-up in New York,
- 23:08SPEAKER_02: like a dinner.
- 23:10SPEAKER_01: I think our approach is very different.
- 23:15It's the same way to,
- 23:16I guess,
- 23:19two Spanish chefs look at Spanish cuisine very differently.
- 23:22There's a very big difference between,
- 23:24say,
- 23:25what they do at Echabari versus what they do at
- 23:30SPEAKER_01: you know, at Elbuli, for example.
- 23:32SPEAKER_01: They're very different.
- 23:34SPEAKER_02: I get that.
- 23:34But it's like you're both in Bangkok at a time when there isn't
- 23:38a lot of fine
- 23:39SPEAKER_02: dining Indian places.
- 23:41SPEAKER_01: Sure.
- 23:41SPEAKER_02: Around the world at all.
- 23:43SPEAKER_02: It's not maybe India, but, you know, it's a very niche category.
- 23:47SPEAKER_02: And suddenly there are two.
- 23:49SPEAKER_02: I don't know.
- 23:50SPEAKER_02: Maybe there are others.
- 23:51SPEAKER_02: Maybe I don't know that much about them.
- 23:52SPEAKER_01: But now there are quite a few.
- 23:54SPEAKER_01: And like I said,
- 23:55SPEAKER_01: this is very recent that,
- 23:58SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 23:59it's much easier for chefs today to showcase modern Indian
- 24:03restaurant than it was
- 24:04SPEAKER_01: probably eight,
- 24:04SPEAKER_01: 10 years ago,
- 24:05SPEAKER_01: definitely.
- 24:08SPEAKER_01: I think if I understand your question correctly,
- 24:14It's how multifaceted Indian cuisine is,
- 24:18and there's so much to showcase.
- 24:20It didn't really ever occur to me or bother me that we might be
- 24:25telling the same story.
- 24:28SPEAKER_02: Yeah, that makes total sense.
- 24:31SPEAKER_00: And what is your story?
- 24:32SPEAKER_00: How will you summarize your story or your approach to it?
- 24:39SPEAKER_01: I wish I had a clear answer for that.
- 24:41SPEAKER_01: I think I'm still kind of trying to articulate what we do at GA.
- 24:47SPEAKER_01: But I think in this moment,
- 24:51SPEAKER_01: the best way to put it is,
- 24:53SPEAKER_01: it's telling,
- 24:56SPEAKER_01: it's putting forth Indian food,
- 24:58SPEAKER_01: how I enjoy it,
- 24:59SPEAKER_01: how I see it,
- 25:00SPEAKER_01: how it makes sense to me in the 21st century,
- 25:03SPEAKER_01: to the modern diner.
- 25:07drawing context from memories,
- 25:11from flavors,
- 25:13from moments,
- 25:15you know,
- 25:15growing up.
- 25:15SPEAKER_01: I think it's telling that story.
- 25:18SPEAKER_02: Tell me about this building that the restaurant is in.
- 25:22SPEAKER_02: Like, that sounds incredible.
- 25:24SPEAKER_01: So beautiful.
- 25:25SPEAKER_01: It is.
- 25:26SPEAKER_01: It is.
- 25:26SPEAKER_01: So it was during COVID when we were looking for a new home for Ga,
- 25:30SPEAKER_01: and we came across this empty plot of land.
- 25:33SPEAKER_01: And I was just curious what's coming up here, right?
- 25:36SPEAKER_01: I was just driving past, literally.
- 25:38SPEAKER_01: That's just how we found the space.
- 25:42SPEAKER_01: We started speaking to the landlord,
- 25:44SPEAKER_01: and he just mentioned that,
- 25:45SPEAKER_01: oh,
- 25:46SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 25:46SPEAKER_01: if you want to open a restaurant here,
- 25:47SPEAKER_01: you're good.
- 25:47SPEAKER_01: And we're like, okay, we could construct something here.
- 25:50SPEAKER_01: And he just happened to say that I have a house in Ayutthaya.
- 25:53SPEAKER_01: If you want me to bring it over, I can.
- 25:55SPEAKER_01: So what do you mean bring a house over?
- 25:58SPEAKER_01: So we went and saw the space.
- 25:59SPEAKER_01: We went and saw the house.
- 26:00SPEAKER_01: Thai house is unbuilt in foundation.
- 26:03SPEAKER_01: They're built on stilts.
- 26:04So they can literally be unpacked like Legos and then put in
- 26:08the back of a truck,
- 26:09SPEAKER_01: brought over to Bangkok and put back up again.
- 26:13SPEAKER_01: And I just fell in love with the house.
- 26:16SPEAKER_01: I think it had so much history.
- 26:17SPEAKER_01: It's almost, it's all of 80, 85 years old now
- 26:21And when we saw that,
- 26:23I thought,
- 26:24you know,
- 26:25it's steeped in so much history.
- 26:27SPEAKER_01: It has such a story to tell.
- 26:28SPEAKER_01: It's so old.
- 26:29SPEAKER_01: So much has happened within these worlds.
- 26:32SPEAKER_01: What if we try to tell a modern story in here?
- 26:34I think that would kind of extend our food philosophy into the
- 26:39dining room as well.
- 26:41SPEAKER_01: So on the outside, it looks like an old Thai house.
- 26:44SPEAKER_01: And when you walk in, it's very modern.
- 26:47SPEAKER_01: It's very minimalist.
- 26:48SPEAKER_01: It's very different.
- 26:50SPEAKER_01: And I think that it says a lot about the dining experience as well.
- 26:55SPEAKER_01: But it's all steeped in Indian history, in culture, in context.
- 26:59SPEAKER_01: But it's presented in a way which is modern and
- 27:02SPEAKER_02: Can you do much to the house?
- 27:03I'm sure there's historic preservation laws or something
- 27:10because it looks like a
- 27:14SPEAKER_02: museum piece from what I can tell.
- 27:19SPEAKER_01: There are limitations to what we can do.
- 27:21SPEAKER_01: We can't change the general structure, the layout, the space.
- 27:24SPEAKER_01: We need to preserve the wood.
- 27:27SPEAKER_01: We can't change the wood without the
- 27:32SPEAKER_01: So there are carpenters,
- 27:33SPEAKER_01: or there are a few companies,
- 27:35SPEAKER_01: I'm calling them companies,
- 27:36but these are generational sort of skilled workers who work on
- 27:40preserving Thai
- 27:41SPEAKER_01: houses.
- 27:42SPEAKER_01: There are a few of them around,
- 27:43and you kind of have to work with them to make any changes
- 27:46within the house or
- 27:47SPEAKER_01: outside.
- 27:48SPEAKER_01: So they have to kind of okay it.
- 27:51We were able to have the inside painted as long as we promised
- 27:55that it could be
- 27:57SPEAKER_01: shaved off,
- 27:57SPEAKER_01: but the outside,
- 27:58SPEAKER_01: no,
- 27:58SPEAKER_01: we couldn't change it at all.
- 28:01So it's the owner of the house together with the artisans to
- 28:03kind of decide what
- 28:04SPEAKER_01: you can or cannot do to the house.
- 28:06SPEAKER_02: Was it hard to lay out like dining rooms and kitchens?
- 28:09SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's very, it is restrictive, yeah.
- 28:15SPEAKER_01: So the lower floor is obviously bricks and mortar and concrete,
- 28:19SPEAKER_01: but it mirrors the space upstairs,
- 28:22SPEAKER_01: which is the Thai house.
- 28:25SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, we had to kind of work around it.
- 28:28SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 28:29SPEAKER_01: it's a weird L-shape building,
- 28:32SPEAKER_01: and you wonder,
- 28:32SPEAKER_01: like,
- 28:32SPEAKER_01: you have so much free space,
- 28:33SPEAKER_01: why don't you use that?
- 28:35Well,
- 28:35we're restricted with what we can do with the space,
- 28:38or change it or modify it.
- 28:41SPEAKER_00: What about the ingredients?
- 28:43SPEAKER_00: Do you import some?
- 28:45SPEAKER_00: Do you get some there?
- 28:46SPEAKER_00: What is the logistics for you?
- 28:49SPEAKER_01: I think what 90% of our ingredients are from Thailand.
- 28:53SPEAKER_01: And this to me is very important.
- 28:54SPEAKER_01: I think this is the where of the story, right?
- 28:57I always say if Gaa wasn't,
- 28:58say,
- 28:59another part of the world,
- 29:00it would taste very different.
- 29:02SPEAKER_01: I mean, it would taste Indian, but the menu would be very different.
- 29:05SPEAKER_01: We wouldn't be doing this menu.
- 29:07And this is a testament to what is possible with applying
- 29:10Indian techniques to
- 29:11SPEAKER_01: ingredients available in one geographic region.
- 29:14SPEAKER_01: So it's Indian techniques applied to ingredients found within Thailand.
- 29:17SPEAKER_01: The result is something different and unique, which is Indian at heart.
- 29:24SPEAKER_01: And say if this was in the Philippines or in Tokyo or in Japan or,
- 29:27SPEAKER_01: I don't know,
- 29:29SPEAKER_01: in Korea or anywhere else in Asia,
- 29:32SPEAKER_01: I think the menu would look very different and feel very different.
- 29:35SPEAKER_01: But if you were to eat it, I'm sure it would be Indian.
- 29:39SPEAKER_01: You would taste India there.
- 29:41SPEAKER_02: What are the ingredients that need to be imported?
- 29:44SPEAKER_01: Some spices.
- 29:47Thailand has very limited dry spices because Indian cuisine
- 29:52uses a lot of dry
- 29:53SPEAKER_01: spices,
- 29:53SPEAKER_01: but Thailand uses a lot of fresh spices.
- 29:55SPEAKER_01: So a lot of our spices are coming from back home.
- 29:58We also tried to highlight some interesting ingredients that
- 30:00are in season back
- 30:01SPEAKER_01: home,
- 30:02SPEAKER_01: which diners do not try to get,
- 30:04SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 30:05SPEAKER_01: do not get to try in Bangkok when we had mangoes,
- 30:09SPEAKER_01: Alfonso mangoes,
- 30:09SPEAKER_01: if you've ever heard of them.
- 30:12SPEAKER_01: sweetest, most delicious mangoes ever.
- 30:14SPEAKER_01: And they're in season for like all of four weeks.
- 30:16SPEAKER_01: So we tried to get them in and kind of, you know, showcase that.
- 30:20SPEAKER_01: So yeah, some ingredients like that, yeah, we do try to bring them in.
- 30:23SPEAKER_02: Are there Thai ingredients you fall in love with?
- 30:26SPEAKER_01: Our main course is a durian.
- 30:28SPEAKER_01: Do you know what a durian is?
- 30:30SPEAKER_02: Yeah, there is no durian in India, right?
- 30:33SPEAKER_01: Yes,
- 30:33SPEAKER_01: there is,
- 30:34SPEAKER_01: but not,
- 30:35SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 30:35SPEAKER_01: just maybe,
- 30:36SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 30:36SPEAKER_01: a small village somewhere kind of using it in their cooking.
- 30:39SPEAKER_01: It's not a mainstream ingredient by any means,
- 30:42SPEAKER_01: or, you know, a favorite ingredient or a soda.
- 30:47SPEAKER_01: So, yeah, we do a tandoori durin.
- 30:49We take the durin,
- 30:50we stick it in the tandoor,
- 30:51we cook it,
- 30:52and we serve it as a main course.
- 30:54SPEAKER_01: So our main course forever has been vegetarian.
- 30:57Again,
- 30:57that's to showcase what's possible with Indian cooking and,
- 31:00you know,
- 31:01vegetarian food.
- 31:04SPEAKER_01: Yeah, that was a very polarizing move when I put that on.
- 31:08SPEAKER_01: Everybody was like, oh, you know, you're going to,
- 31:10SPEAKER_01: You're going to regret this.
- 31:12Nobody's going to ever want to eat main course,
- 31:14you know,
- 31:14durian as a main course.
- 31:15SPEAKER_01: It's just not going to fly.
- 31:16And I think I was adamant that I really wanted to try it out
- 31:20and people come back asking for it.
- 31:22SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 31:23SPEAKER_02: So let's, let's talk about this course more.
- 31:24SPEAKER_02: So it's Dorian cooked.
- 31:27SPEAKER_02: I don't know exactly.
- 31:28SPEAKER_02: I don't know too much about Tandoor ovens, but is it high heat, low heat?
- 31:32SPEAKER_01: High heat.
- 31:33SPEAKER_02: High heat.
- 31:34SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 31:34SPEAKER_02: So how long?
- 31:35SPEAKER_01: It depends, right?
- 31:37So the way that the tandoor works is during the day when you're
- 31:40using it during
- 31:40SPEAKER_01: service,
- 31:41SPEAKER_01: it's high heat.
- 31:42SPEAKER_01: And end of service,
- 31:44you have a lot of residual heat where you can leave things to
- 31:47kind of slow cook.
- 31:49SPEAKER_01: And we do that as well.
- 31:51SPEAKER_01: So we sometimes dry ingredients in there.
- 31:53SPEAKER_01: We dry, you know, herbs in there to get a little bit of smoky taste.
- 32:01SPEAKER_01: We cook stuff on top, slow cook things on top off the tandoor overnight.
- 32:05SPEAKER_01: But the durian in particular is obviously cooked in high heat.
- 32:10We take the meat of the durian out and season it and put it
- 32:16back into the tandoor
- 32:17SPEAKER_01: in its shell and then let it cook through on the charcoal.
- 32:23that's served with a lot of condiments and breads and stuff
- 32:25like that so it all
- 32:28comes together like a sharing course the main course which is
- 32:34what Indian food is
- 32:35like in a lot of chutneys and pickles and condiments and kind
- 32:37of make your own bite
- 32:38and every bite tastes different some bites can be a little bit
- 32:41spicier because you
- 32:42add a little bit more spice sometimes some bites are crispier
- 32:45because that's a
- 32:45SPEAKER_01: texture that you can add yeah I'm really fond of that course
- 32:50SPEAKER_02: So does it feel like meaty?
- 32:53SPEAKER_01: It is, yeah.
- 32:54SPEAKER_01: It's meaty.
- 32:55SPEAKER_01: It's cheesy, meaty.
- 32:58SPEAKER_01: It changes a lot in texture and flavor when you cook it like that.
- 33:01SPEAKER_02: Do they cook durian in Thailand at all, ever?
- 33:06SPEAKER_01: Traditionally, probably not.
- 33:08SPEAKER_01: But now, yeah.
- 33:11SPEAKER_01: I think I saw somebody doing Hawaiian pizza with pineapple,
- 33:14SPEAKER_01: but you know,
- 33:16SPEAKER_01: I will call it a chengma pizza.
- 33:17SPEAKER_02: I'm sure an Italian's head exploded somewhere.
- 33:22SPEAKER_00: How do you explain all this to your staff?
- 33:26SPEAKER_00: How do you explain the essence of it apart from trying flavors and
- 33:33How do you translate what you want to from an experience you
- 33:37only had when you were a kid?
- 33:38SPEAKER_00: Because I'm guessing not all your stuff is coming from India.
- 33:44SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I think this is actually easier than you think.
- 33:47SPEAKER_01: There is a lot of things in common between India and Thailand.
- 33:52SPEAKER_01: Cuisine is a very small part, language.
- 33:57Mythology,
- 33:58religion,
- 33:59God,
- 34:00there's so much in common between the two countries.
- 34:02SPEAKER_01: And we harp on that.
- 34:08We harp on things that make us similar instead of what makes us
- 34:12different from each other.
- 34:14And I feel our front of house staff,
- 34:19the staff in the dining room responds really well to that.
- 34:21SPEAKER_01: So there's always a connection that you can find.
- 34:24SPEAKER_01: It's, for example, the beetle leaf.
- 34:27SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 34:27SPEAKER_01: We in India always have it sweet as a dessert,
- 34:30SPEAKER_01: as almost like a digestive at the end of the meal.
- 34:32SPEAKER_01: But it's always used savory in Thai cuisine.
- 34:35SPEAKER_01: But this is a comparison which is very easy to explain to someone.
- 34:39SPEAKER_01: You know how you do it savory.
- 34:40SPEAKER_01: We do it sweet.
- 34:41SPEAKER_01: Oh, of course, you understand it.
- 34:43SPEAKER_01: And immediately they're able to tell that story on the table.
- 34:46And so I think finding similarities helps better to tell the
- 34:51story than harping on
- 34:53SPEAKER_01: the things that makes us different.
- 34:56And is there something about the ways of eating it that you
- 34:59want to keep from the
- 35:01SPEAKER_00: Indian food waste?
- 35:04SPEAKER_00: And that's something you have to explain as well?
- 35:07SPEAKER_00: Or is your own take on it and it doesn't need much translation?
- 35:13SPEAKER_00: This is not only the flavors, right?
- 35:15SPEAKER_00: And the times, but also all the cultural stuff around it.
- 35:23SPEAKER_00: I don't know how much of that
- 35:25you face when you're creating that,
- 35:27or it doesn't...
- 35:29You mean the way to eat a ingredient?
- 35:32SPEAKER_00: Yeah,
- 35:32SPEAKER_00: because,
- 35:33SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 35:33SPEAKER_00: the fact that you're doing,
- 35:35SPEAKER_00: obviously,
- 35:37SPEAKER_00: your own creation on a base of what you learned and saw and remember,
- 35:43SPEAKER_00: and it's still going on.
- 35:46SPEAKER_00: But all the cultural things around it that are not tangible,
- 35:49SPEAKER_00: I'm sure that influence what you do.
- 35:53SPEAKER_00: Do you...
- 35:55find yourself having to consciously talk about that or it's
- 36:01something that you just
- 36:02SPEAKER_00: keep personal and then the staff don't address that.
- 36:06SPEAKER_00: I'm curious about the intangibles of it.
- 36:09SPEAKER_01: I think we definitely tell the story.
- 36:12SPEAKER_01: The why is very important.
- 36:13Because it's very easy to then fall in the trap of the cuisine
- 36:17being understood as fusion.
- 36:18SPEAKER_01: And that's a word that I hate.
- 36:20SPEAKER_01: And it's not that.
- 36:21The kind of effort we put in,
- 36:23it couldn't be further away from it being,
- 36:26say,
- 36:26fusion.
- 36:27SPEAKER_01: Suddenly you see Julian on the menu in an Indian restaurant.
- 36:31SPEAKER_01: It's very easy to call it that.
- 36:35SPEAKER_01: That's where it comes on the team in the dining room to...
- 36:42SPEAKER_01: to be able to communicate that cultural reference very, very clearly.
- 36:47SPEAKER_01: So yes, those stories may be personal to me.
- 36:51SPEAKER_01: Most of the time,
- 36:52we are able to find a bridge where they understand it and can
- 36:55communicate that to
- 36:56SPEAKER_01: the guest.
- 36:58SPEAKER_01: Sometimes it's,
- 36:59SPEAKER_01: okay,
- 36:59SPEAKER_01: you just have to,
- 37:00SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 37:01SPEAKER_01: just learn it and,
- 37:02SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 37:02just repeat it on the table so people understand that there is
- 37:05a cultural reference
- 37:05SPEAKER_01: to this.
- 37:07SPEAKER_01: Sometimes...
- 37:10SPEAKER_01: Tasting the food also helps.
- 37:11We make sure our team is constantly tasting while they're
- 37:16tasting the stories
- 37:16SPEAKER_01: being,
- 37:17SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 37:18SPEAKER_01: I tell them the story that helps.
- 37:20SPEAKER_01: So yeah, there's some parts of the menu are easier than others too.
- 37:26SPEAKER_02: Is there a limit of how much you can explain to the diners?
- 37:30SPEAKER_01: Definitely.
- 37:31SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 37:32SPEAKER_02: It's like so many times they zone out if you,
- 37:36SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 37:37SPEAKER_02: if you talk too much and,
- 37:38SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 37:39SPEAKER_02: even if this is some
- 37:40SPEAKER_02: Yeah, something complicated.
- 37:42SPEAKER_02: And then they get bored and then the food gets cold or whatever.
- 37:45SPEAKER_02: But I think the easiest way is just to taste it and it tastes good.
- 37:50SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 37:51SPEAKER_01: Yeah, absolutely.
- 37:53SPEAKER_01: Your food has to taste good, right?
- 37:54SPEAKER_01: That's the basic.
- 37:55SPEAKER_01: That's that's like the starting point.
- 37:58You can't over intellectualize every single dish and every
- 38:00single dish can't be
- 38:01SPEAKER_01: because my grandmother did it this way.
- 38:03SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah.
- 38:05SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 38:05SPEAKER_01: me as a diner,
- 38:06SPEAKER_01: when I go out,
- 38:08SPEAKER_01: maybe I'm a little bit jaded because I come from the industry.
- 38:11SPEAKER_01: But, you know, after a while, you just want to enjoy good food.
- 38:15SPEAKER_01: That's the point of going out.
- 38:16SPEAKER_01: You don't want to be talked down to.
- 38:18SPEAKER_01: You don't want to listen to these stories.
- 38:20SPEAKER_01: It's...
- 38:23SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it can be too much sometimes.
- 38:25SPEAKER_01: But then there are guests who really want to hear that story.
- 38:29SPEAKER_01: They enjoy it.
- 38:31SPEAKER_01: And I think that is where good hospitality or good service comes in.
- 38:35SPEAKER_01: Knowing your diners,
- 38:36SPEAKER_01: understanding what they want,
- 38:38SPEAKER_01: when they want to be left alone,
- 38:39SPEAKER_01: when they're actually interested in wanting to know more.
- 38:42SPEAKER_01: That is why we encourage chefs to go on tables as much as possible.
- 38:45I think chefs are able to pick up on this much better than
- 38:49sometimes than service.
- 38:51SPEAKER_01: So you have a different eye on the table.
- 38:54SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 38:55SPEAKER_01: somebody asks a question,
- 38:56SPEAKER_01: a small little question,
- 38:57SPEAKER_01: we immediately know,
- 38:57SPEAKER_01: okay,
- 38:57SPEAKER_01: this is the kind of table that,
- 38:58SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 38:59SPEAKER_01: wants to know this detail and I'm sure we are able to.
- 39:03SPEAKER_01: So all sort of diners out there.
- 39:04SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, but I'm in the same way.
- 39:06There's a point where you've like eaten at so many restaurants
- 39:09around the world.
- 39:11had so many amazing things and then you get a little exhausted
- 39:14sometimes of it you
- 39:16know like especially if you go on a trip for five days and
- 39:19you're eating tasting
- 39:20menus every day because you're in you know bass country or
- 39:23paris or something and
- 39:25then at some point you're just like okay i've eaten so much i
- 39:28just yeah i just want
- 39:29to have a glass of wine and you know a nice piece of bread with
- 39:33or whatever and you
- 39:35SPEAKER_02: know just chill out and not think so much yep
- 39:39SPEAKER_01: No, and I totally agree with you.
- 39:42SPEAKER_01: And if it's up to me,
- 39:43we try to keep communication minimal on the table and let the
- 39:46food do the talking.
- 39:47SPEAKER_01: And I learned this at,
- 39:50I went on one of these trips where we were eating continuously
- 39:52over five days,
- 39:53SPEAKER_01: one restaurant after the other.
- 39:54SPEAKER_01: And by the time of the fifth day, I was just so done.
- 39:58SPEAKER_01: But we went to this restaurant where the food was just so good.
- 40:02It kind of,
- 40:03you know,
- 40:04restarted our appetite and we wanted to eat more and more.
- 40:06SPEAKER_01: And that's when I understand, that's when I understood that,
- 40:10SPEAKER_01: Nobody, food has to taste good.
- 40:13SPEAKER_01: It has to taste good and people will eat it and enjoy and understand it.
- 40:18SPEAKER_01: That's what we try.
- 40:18SPEAKER_01: I agree with you there.
- 40:19SPEAKER_00: And being so busy,
- 40:21SPEAKER_00: obviously,
- 40:22SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 40:22SPEAKER_00: trying to make this work in an excellent way and your kids now.
- 40:28how do you keep the conversation going with other chefs around
- 40:33the world and just
- 40:34SPEAKER_00: the industry or things that can influence your work in an active way?
- 40:39SPEAKER_00: Because at Noma, you have access to all that, right?
- 40:43SPEAKER_00: And probably in other jobs you have.
- 40:46SPEAKER_00: But right now,
- 40:47SPEAKER_00: because you have to be so focused,
- 40:49SPEAKER_00: do you find yourself being isolated and disconnected from that?
- 40:54SPEAKER_00: How do you balance that?
- 40:57SPEAKER_01: No, absolutely.
- 40:58SPEAKER_01: It can be lonely sometimes.
- 41:02SPEAKER_01: Motherhood is not easy.
- 41:04SPEAKER_01: It's a full-time job.
- 41:06SPEAKER_01: And mom guilt is a real thing.
- 41:07I was never the kind of person who would have bought into that,
- 41:10but I understand now.
- 41:14SPEAKER_01: So yeah,
- 41:14it's difficult to be in touch with everybody and kind of be at
- 41:18the right place at
- 41:19SPEAKER_01: the right time when you have two little ones who depend on you.
- 41:24SPEAKER_01: So one thing is for sure, it helps you prioritize things better.
- 41:29SPEAKER_01: You learn to say no to things.
- 41:31You learn to say yes to the things that truly matter and
- 41:35actually add value to your
- 41:36SPEAKER_01: business,
- 41:37SPEAKER_01: to your life.
- 41:38SPEAKER_01: So in that way, yes, it's a more grounding experience.
- 41:41SPEAKER_01: But to answer your question, yeah,
- 41:44SPEAKER_01: It can be isolating.
- 41:47This part of being a female chef,
- 41:48I totally agree,
- 41:49because your priorities are very different.
- 41:51And the time that you're able to devote to your profession
- 41:55drastically reduces once
- 41:57SPEAKER_01: you start a family.
- 41:58SPEAKER_01: It's our face.
- 42:01yes it is it is i'm not regretting it at all i'm enjoying it i
- 42:04think you have to
- 42:05learn to enjoy every part of life every phase of life with uh
- 42:09with grace with uh
- 42:12with uh you know with happiness with with a smile and it all
- 42:17works out gratitude
- 42:18yeah yeah exactly gratitude is a big part of it as well and
- 42:23thailand's such a happy
- 42:25SPEAKER_02: place
- 42:26SPEAKER_02: I don't know.
- 42:27SPEAKER_02: I just remember being there when I was like 22.
- 42:29SPEAKER_02: That was the only time I was there.
- 42:31SPEAKER_02: And just such a beautiful and lovely and just friendly place.
- 42:36SPEAKER_02: Is it still beautiful and friendly?
- 42:39SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it is.
- 42:41SPEAKER_01: It is.
- 42:42SPEAKER_01: I think that's generally the nature of the people here.
- 42:44SPEAKER_01: So yeah, it is.
- 42:45SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
- 42:47SPEAKER_01: That hasn't changed.
- 42:48SPEAKER_01: There's a lot more malls around, a lot more traffic.
- 42:51SPEAKER_01: But other than that, no, that remains the same.
- 42:53SPEAKER_02: No, but it's like I see photos of it now and it looks...
- 42:56so massive like the buildings and it totally wasn't like that
- 43:0120 years ago yeah but
- 43:03i mean that's kind of every city major city in the world i
- 43:06guess is okay and
- 43:08SPEAKER_00: talking about connection with india garima do you
- 43:12SPEAKER_00: You started this nonprofit some years ago,
- 43:15SPEAKER_00: but I'm wondering if it's still active or it's on pause now?
- 43:19SPEAKER_01: It's on pause currently.
- 43:21I think it was during COVID that we had to take a pause because
- 43:25the initiative was
- 43:27almost nomadic in nature where it required for us to travel to
- 43:31different parts of
- 43:31SPEAKER_01: the country.
- 43:32SPEAKER_01: And it was almost for three years that I wasn't able to leave Thailand.
- 43:37SPEAKER_01: And it's a shame.
- 43:39SPEAKER_01: We started off really well with our first trip in Telangana.
- 43:44That's the eastern part of the country,
- 43:46a big state in the eastern part of the country.
- 43:49SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 43:50But I think once I have more bandwidth,
- 43:54that is something I really want to get back to.
- 43:56SPEAKER_02: But you opened a restaurant in India, right?
- 44:00SPEAKER_01: That's correct.
- 44:01SPEAKER_01: A Thai restaurant.
- 44:02SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 44:02SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 44:05We opened in Delhi in December and we opening another one in
- 44:09Mumbai next month.
- 44:11SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 44:12SPEAKER_02: So this is casual, right?
- 44:14SPEAKER_01: It's a casual restaurant.
- 44:15SPEAKER_01: It's a casual Thai restaurant.
- 44:17SPEAKER_01: Uh,
- 44:19SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 44:19SPEAKER_01: it's,
- 44:20SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 44:20SPEAKER_01: it's taking flavors of Thailand that I've enjoyed,
- 44:23SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 44:23SPEAKER_01: in the past so many years and,
- 44:25SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 44:25SPEAKER_01: kind of taking it back home.
- 44:27SPEAKER_01: It's headed by one of my sous chefs who's Indian.
- 44:31SPEAKER_01: He was the first intern at GA and kind of made his way up the chain.
- 44:35SPEAKER_01: And yeah, now he's heading it back in India.
- 44:39SPEAKER_01: I think it's as much as I enjoy GA and I love doing what I do here,
- 44:43I think it's also the next generation of chefs from my kitchen
- 44:48kind of now finding
- 44:49their own way or doing their own thing and we're supporting
- 44:52that in the best way I
- 44:52SPEAKER_01: can.
- 44:53SPEAKER_02: It seems like there's a lot of opportunity for a
- 44:55SPEAKER_02: Indian chefs around the world now.
- 44:58SPEAKER_02: There's a high demand for trained Indian chefs.
- 45:03I just remember this moment,
- 45:04and I mostly cover Latin America,
- 45:06and there was this moment when
- 45:09Peruvian chefs,
- 45:10they were being exported around the world like it was a product
- 45:15almost.
- 45:16If you worked at a handful of restaurants and you could do some
- 45:20basic things,
- 45:21it's like the world was open to you just because there was such
- 45:26a demand for
- 45:28SPEAKER_02: for their work and their knowledge.
- 45:30SPEAKER_02: And,
- 45:30SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 45:31SPEAKER_02: like just in New York right now,
- 45:33the number of Indian restaurants that are just doing so well
- 45:37and just branching out
- 45:39SPEAKER_02: in so many different directions is like unreal.
- 45:42SPEAKER_02: Like the scene is incredible right now.
- 45:44And yeah,
- 45:46I'm sure everyone that's worked with you is,
- 45:49you know,
- 45:50has amazing opportunities.
- 45:52SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we try.
- 45:54SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I mean, it's coming of age, isn't it, for Indian cuisine?
- 45:59It's the moment,
- 46:01it's Indian cuisine's moment,
- 46:02like I said,
- 46:04it's coming up in a big way.
- 46:07SPEAKER_01: Indian chefs are, of course, they're highly skilled.
- 46:11SPEAKER_01: I mean, I'm definitely not one of them.
- 46:13There are chefs who've worked all their life making these
- 46:17intricate,
- 46:18beautiful desserts.
- 46:20SPEAKER_01: And, yeah...
- 46:25SPEAKER_01: Nobody can take those hours away from them.
- 46:27It's actually over years of training that they're able to
- 46:32produce such delicate
- 46:33SPEAKER_01: pastries and desserts.
- 46:35SPEAKER_01: Same thing with a tandoor chef.
- 46:37You really have to be very skilled and very experienced to kind
- 46:39of be able to control that.
- 46:40SPEAKER_01: So a lot of skill, a lot of experience.
- 46:42SPEAKER_01: And yeah, Indian food is tasty, it's delicious.
- 46:48SPEAKER_01: That makes it very popular as well.
- 46:51SPEAKER_01: And yeah, Indian chefs are hardworking.
- 46:53I think there's a thirst and a need for Indian chefs to prove
- 46:57themselves in their cuisine.
- 46:58SPEAKER_01: And that makes them more popular, top choice for employment.
- 47:04SPEAKER_02: How has MasterChef impacted you?
- 47:08SPEAKER_02: Are you still a judge?
- 47:10SPEAKER_01: Not this season, I wasn't, because I just had my baby girl.
- 47:14SPEAKER_01: But yeah, otherwise, yes.
- 47:20SPEAKER_01: I have better appreciation for makeup.
- 47:28It was a very different experience for me,
- 47:29something I've never done before.
- 47:30SPEAKER_01: I would have never done this if this was before COVID.
- 47:34I was so happy within the four walls of my restaurant and
- 47:40continually cooking every
- 47:41SPEAKER_01: day,
- 47:41SPEAKER_01: happy behind the stove.
- 47:42SPEAKER_01: That's where I belonged, I felt, and that's what I always wanted to do.
- 47:45SPEAKER_01: But,
- 47:46SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 47:47SPEAKER_01: after being closed for so many,
- 47:49SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 47:49SPEAKER_01: for two,
- 47:50SPEAKER_01: two and a half years,
- 47:50SPEAKER_01: open and close and open and close again for the restaurant,
- 47:53SPEAKER_01: I wanted to try something new.
- 47:54SPEAKER_01: I just wanted to see what else is possible with cooking.
- 47:56And,
- 47:56you know,
- 47:57a restaurant seemed a very unstable place for me in that
- 48:02moment.
- 48:02SPEAKER_01: So I was like, oh, maybe there's more to explore here.
- 48:04SPEAKER_01: And that's why I, on a whim, did MasterChef.
- 48:09SPEAKER_01: I learned a lot.
- 48:10SPEAKER_01: I think watching creativity manifest itself in another field,
- 48:15SPEAKER_01: that was always interesting to see as a chef.
- 48:19I was more interested in what was going on behind the camera
- 48:22than what was going on
- 48:23SPEAKER_01: in front of it.
- 48:24It's incredible to see so much talent come together to produce
- 48:29a show that we turn
- 48:31SPEAKER_01: on TV and we just kind of take it for granted.
- 48:33SPEAKER_01: I think that was very interesting.
- 48:36SPEAKER_01: But on the other side of the food side of things,
- 48:39SPEAKER_01: the contestants that I came across and I met there,
- 48:42SPEAKER_01: they were chefs or home cooks from small regions of India,
- 48:47SPEAKER_01: little parts of India.
- 48:49And they had so much pride in their cuisine and they were so
- 48:52excited to showcase what they...
- 48:54SPEAKER_01: had to offer,
- 48:55SPEAKER_01: what they grew up eating,
- 48:56SPEAKER_01: what is by no stretch of imagination mainstream even back home.
- 49:00SPEAKER_01: I think that was that pride and that was really great to see.
- 49:06SPEAKER_02: That's cool.
- 49:07SPEAKER_02: Has it changed your relationship with India?
- 49:10Like in the sense that,
- 49:12you know,
- 49:12now suddenly when you're home,
- 49:14everyone recognizes you.
- 49:16SPEAKER_01: Oh, yeah, that happens.
- 49:20SPEAKER_01: Yeah, that happens.
- 49:20SPEAKER_01: I can imagine.
- 49:21SPEAKER_01: That definitely happens.
- 49:23SPEAKER_01: I can never get used to that.
- 49:25SPEAKER_01: But yeah, that is.
- 49:26SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 49:26SPEAKER_02: I just imagine it's massive, like MasterChef India, just the reach of it.
- 49:30SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 49:31SPEAKER_01: Just the sheer numbers.
- 49:32I mean,
- 49:32yeah,
- 49:33you're talking about point three,
- 49:35one point four billion people.
- 49:36SPEAKER_01: So it's it reaches a big, big, big audience.
- 49:41SPEAKER_01: I mean, I can't walk out.
- 49:42SPEAKER_01: I definitely can't be seen in my pajamas outside of my home.
- 49:46SPEAKER_01: You know what I mean?
- 49:48SPEAKER_01: I can't do that anymore.
- 49:49SPEAKER_01: But no, there are all positives and negatives to everything.
- 49:55SPEAKER_01: And I think the kind of voice this platform has given me,
- 49:59SPEAKER_01: I think that's...
- 50:00SPEAKER_01: I'm ever so grateful for that.
- 50:03SPEAKER_02: So what's next?
- 50:04SPEAKER_02: Any projects on the horizon that we should know about?
- 50:08SPEAKER_01: I mean, very...
- 50:10SPEAKER_01: Right away, we're opening a restaurant in Mumbai.
- 50:14The second outlet of the Thai restaurant opens in Mumbai next
- 50:18month,
- 50:18Bank.
- 50:19SPEAKER_01: It's called Bank.
- 50:21SPEAKER_01: I think that's something that's happening.
- 50:24I'm trying to get more than four hours of sleep in a night,
- 50:28trying to reach the six-hour mark.
- 50:30SPEAKER_01: That's high on the agenda.
- 50:34uh i think yeah i'm going to take this year to kind of learn to
- 50:37balance uh these
- 50:38two aspects of life a little bit better and hopefully we are
- 50:42back at it uh next
- 50:44year uh you know stronger and better well thank you so much for
- 50:48for talking to us
- 50:49it was it was a real pleasure getting to know you and the
- 50:52restaurant looks amazing
- 50:53i can't wait to one day you know come and visit it'd be so nice
- 50:58to have you with
- 50:58SPEAKER_01: any plans for bangkok
- 51:02SPEAKER_02: I would love to.
- 51:02SPEAKER_02: It's just so far for me, honestly.
- 51:06SPEAKER_02: I love Asia so much.
- 51:09SPEAKER_02: I've only been there a few times, but it's so far.
- 51:15SPEAKER_02: Even though I'm used to traveling eight hours all the time,
- 51:18SPEAKER_02: but a full day of planes and time zones.
- 51:24SPEAKER_02: When I go, I need to make it worth it.
- 51:26SPEAKER_01: I mean, you haven't been here in a long time, it seems like it, right?
- 51:29SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 51:30SPEAKER_01: So, I mean, there's a lot going on here.
- 51:33SPEAKER_01: I'm sure you don't have to try too hard to make it a successful trip.
- 51:37SPEAKER_01: No, I know.
- 51:39It's like the scale of Asia,
- 51:40you know,
- 51:43is like I spent two months in India.
- 51:45SPEAKER_02: you know, 20 years ago.
- 51:47SPEAKER_02: And I still feel like I only scratched.
- 51:49SPEAKER_01: What happened to you 20 years ago?
- 51:51SPEAKER_01: This seems like a very exciting time in your life.
- 51:53SPEAKER_01: I need to know.
- 51:54SPEAKER_02: I was just, I was young.
- 51:55SPEAKER_02: I was a freelance writer and just, you know, traveling the world.
- 51:58SPEAKER_02: And I just kind of went everywhere.
- 52:00SPEAKER_02: And then, yeah, and it was fun.
- 52:04And,
- 52:04but I don't have that freedom anymore to,
- 52:07you know,
- 52:08to just disappear for two months.
- 52:11SPEAKER_01: I can understand that, but.
- 52:14SPEAKER_01: Hey, whenever you do decide to.
- 52:15SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 52:17SPEAKER_01: And that's for you as well, Juliana.
- 52:18SPEAKER_01: Whenever you guys do decide to be in this part of the world,
- 52:20SPEAKER_01: please,
- 52:21SPEAKER_01: I insist that you look us up.
- 52:22SPEAKER_01: Let me know.
- 52:23SPEAKER_01: I would love to have you both over.
- 52:25SPEAKER_01: I think instead of just talking about this.
- 52:28SPEAKER_00: Oh, I know.
- 52:29SPEAKER_01: It would be nice to feed you.
- 52:30SPEAKER_01: I can listen to that.
- 52:31SPEAKER_01: I'm going to go search videos for it.
- 52:32SPEAKER_01: I'm sure there's something.
- 52:33SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 52:34SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 52:42perfect uh garima thank you so much a real pleasure thank you
- 52:45thank you both thank
- 52:46you and yeah take care have a good day ahead thank you everyone
- 52:49for listening that
- 52:50was garima aurora from the restaurant ga in bangkok thailand
- 52:56check her out if
- 52:57you're ever there look for her on master chef india and keep
- 53:04your dreams open for
- 53:07SPEAKER_02: tandoor durian i'm gonna dream about it tonight and um
- 53:12SPEAKER_02: If you haven't subscribed to the newsletter, please check us out.
- 53:14SPEAKER_02: Go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
- 53:19And a thank you to my friend Pat Buzzer for providing the music
- 53:22to the show.
- 53:23SPEAKER_02: That's it.
- 53:24SPEAKER_02: See you everyone later.