Latest / How To Protect The Ocean / What the Sustainable Seafood Label Can't See
Transcript
- 0:00You bought the fish with the green check mark.
- 0:02Now, investigators check the supply chains behind hundreds of seafood
- 0:06companies making the claims like that, like that they are being sustainable.
- 0:09That's what they wanna hear.
- 0:11More than half had a documented problem somewhere upstream.
- 0:15That's the problem.
- 0:17That's the problem that we're seeing, Now, we've talked about three days
- 0:21following the feed, we've talked about what the farm fish are eating.
- 0:25We're talking about how the fish meal is taking away fish from specific coastal
- 0:30areas like, in countries in West Africa.
- 0:33And yesterday we talked about, how that fish is being moved around, how all the
- 0:37boats and all the things that go on on the boats, how it's actually being caught.
- 0:40Now, today we're gonna focus on the label on the package and what
- 0:44you can do to make sure that you are eating sustainable seafood.
- 0:48I think that's, like, the biggest thing right now when you buy certified seafood,
- 0:53Cause you did the responsible thing, You used the tools that you had, and
- 0:56you wanna say, like, clearly, " I wanna make sure that this is sustainable."
- 1:01But the question today is what those labels cover and where they stop.
- 1:05Not that they mean to not cover certain things, but there are certain things
- 1:08that we are discovering each and every day where we're like, "Oh, yeah, that
- 1:13doesn't actually work right now because of whatever we've discovered this week
- 1:16on 'The Outlaw Ocean Project.'" Now, I've recommended seafood labels and
- 1:20guides for years, and I still do, I wanna make sure you're using them with
- 1:23your eyes open, though, and that's what today's all about, and so I want
- 1:27you guys to kind of understand that.
- 1:29Now, investigators have looked at more than 559 seafood companies
- 1:34making strong sustainability claims.
- 1:36More than half had a documented crime or concern somewhere in their supply chains.
- 1:41Now, they may not have known about it.
- 1:42It may have been hidden from them, but now with this Outlaw Ocean Project
- 1:47investigation that's coming to light, we now know where the problems are.
- 1:52At least 80 fish meal plants and boats they investigated
- 1:56held Marine Trust certification.
- 1:59So it's, like, a specific certification that is supposed
- 2:01to be, like, sustainability.
- 2:03Virtually all of them had crimes or concerns linked to their supply chains.
- 2:06Now, since 2020, at least nine US false advertising lawsuits have targeted
- 2:11seafood sustainability companies with more than $2 million in settlements.
- 2:15Now let's look at what this supply chain looks like.
- 2:18You go from the boat, the fish meal plant, the feed mill, fish
- 2:22farm, processor, importer, and then the store, and then you.
- 2:26Most of the audits in these programs focus on the farm, sometimes the processor, but
- 2:31spot checks are often announced ahead of time, so it's not really a spot check,
- 2:35and it's not really, like, a surprise.
- 2:37So auditors rarely interview crews at sea in their own language with the
- 2:41captain out of earshot, because if the captain's there and they're being
- 2:44held against their will or there's some kind of fishery slave stuff going
- 2:47on and the captain's, like, right there, they're not gonna say anything.
- 2:50They're just gonna be like, "Yeah, this is what happens."
- 2:52Even though they can probably be rescued and probably be helped.
- 2:54they're scared.
- 2:55They don't have their passport, they don't have access to their families,
- 2:58they've been abused emotionally, mentally, physically, and they could die.
- 3:02So they're not gonna share any kind of information with authorities if they're
- 3:06near any kind of authority on the boat, like a captain or something like that.
- 3:10let's talk about what this, like, gap in the supply chain is really about.
- 3:15Western Sahara is a territory on the Atlantic coast of North Africa, so
- 3:19Morocco has controlled most of it since 1970s, and European courts have ruled
- 3:24more than once that it's legally separate from Morocco, and that trade deals with
- 3:28Morocco don't cover it without consent of the Sahrawi people who live there.
- 3:34Now Western Sahara has at least 14 fish meal plants, and according to The Outlaw
- 3:38Ocean Project, their owners often label the product as Moroccan before it ships.
- 3:43They kinda hide it.
- 3:44So one of those plants, run by a company called Delta Ocean in the city
- 3:48of Laâyoune, supplies fish meal to a Turkish company called Kilyos Deniz.
- 3:53I don't know if I'm pronouncing that properly, makes fish
- 3:55feed and runs sea bass farms.
- 3:57Those farms have held Aquaculture Stewardship Council certification
- 4:01since 2019, and according to the report by DeSmog, they supply three of
- 4:05Britain's biggest supermarket chains.
- 4:07Now, when reporters from The Outlaw Ocean Project asked, one of those supermarkets,
- 4:11Sainsbury's, said its supplier had given written assurances that its sea bass
- 4:16feed didn't come from the company's name, so, like, Delta Ocean and Kilyos Deniz,
- 4:21and those companies did not respond for comments by the Outlaw Ocean Project.
- 4:24So the farm can meet the standard while the feed's origins, rest
- 4:28on paperwork, That's pretty much the gap that we're seeing here.
- 4:32And Seafood Watch says openly that its ratings cover environmental impact
- 4:35and that the labor risk sits in a separate tool built for businesses.
- 4:40So Marine Trust says it's a standard setter whose rules are grounded in
- 4:44science, but critics point out that it's governed largely by members of the
- 4:47fishmeal industry's own trade group.
- 4:49Bit of a conflict of interest, especially if they're not transparent.
- 4:52Both things can be true.
- 4:54Like, you can still have, a certification.
- 4:56You still think everything's going well, but there's still a gap.
- 4:59Now remember Gunjur in The Gambia that I talked about a couple of episodes ago?
- 5:03Remember it was that lagoon, that turned red in 2017 and again in 2025?
- 5:07The plant next to it is called Golden Lead.
- 5:10According to trade records compiled by the Outlaw Ocean Project, Golden Lead
- 5:14sent at least 10 shipments of fish meal between 2022 and 2023 to a shrimp
- 5:18feed mill in Vietnam called Grobest.
- 5:21That mill holds a certification from the Aquaculture Stewardship Council.
- 5:25Now, Grobest sells shrimp feed to hatcheries and farms in Vietnam.
- 5:29Those farms supply some of the country's biggest shrimp exporters,
- 5:33including one called Minh Phu.
- 5:35And Minh Phu has shipped shrimp to Canadian importers whose
- 5:39brands sit in the freezer aisles at Sobeys and Walmart Canada.
- 5:42None of those companies responded to the investigators' questions,
- 5:45which is kind of interesting.
- 5:46The records show a link between these companies.
- 5:49They don't prove any particular bag of shrimp contains fish meal
- 5:52from that plant, and nothing suggests that the grocers knew.
- 5:55That's exactly the point though, of all this, Nobody in the chain
- 5:58has asked to look all the way back.
- 6:00Now the chain is public, so everyone can ask, and that's important.
- 6:05Now Tuesday, we looked at farm fish that eat wild fish.
- 6:08Wednesday, those fish were somebody's dinner.
- 6:10And Thursday, the boats are pretty hard to see that catch this fish meal.
- 6:14Now today, the label can't see them either, but you can.
- 6:17In October 2023, a multi-year investigation reported by The New Yorker
- 6:22and The Outlaw Ocean Project documented that Uighur workers had been moved
- 6:26from western China to work in a seafood processing plants on China's east coast
- 6:31under a government labor transfer program.
- 6:33Now, seafood from some of those plants were reaching buyers
- 6:36in North America and Europe.
- 6:38So the investigators published trade records showing which
- 6:41companies were connected.
- 6:42Within a day, Highliner Foods, Canada's biggest seafood companies, announced it
- 6:46had cut ties with the suppliers named.
- 6:49The US groceries chain, Albertsons, had already pulled the affected
- 6:53products from their shelves.
- 6:54Lund's Fisheries in New Jersey had cut ties as well.
- 6:57And the following year, the Aquaculture Stewardship Council
- 7:00closed its office in China.
- 7:02Once the buyers could see the chain, it moved in a day.
- 7:06So once you can see that supply chain, you can act.
- 7:09And those companies acted, like I gotta give credit to the companies,
- 7:11they acted fast once they had evidence, And that's the whole lesson.
- 7:15Visibility changes the behavior.
- 7:18So the call to action for you today is find your grocery store chain's annual
- 7:22forced labor supply chain report.
- 7:24In Canada, search the chain's name plus the S2011 report.
- 7:28Since 2024, the law requires large companies to publish
- 7:30one every year by May 1st.
- 7:32In the UK, look for the company's modern slavery statement.
- 7:35Check whether it mentions seafood and especially seafood feed.
- 7:39If it doesn't, send the store one line asking, "Why are you not doing
- 7:43this?" In the US, ask customer service whether the store's seafood
- 7:46supply policy covers fish feed.
- 7:49These are all CTAs that are really easy to do, These are all
- 7:51calls to action that you can do.
- 7:52It doesn't take much.
- 7:53All you have to do is send one email.
- 7:55It's really not that difficult.
- 7:57And the more of you that send those emails, the more answers we get, the
- 8:00more that these companies realize that people are looking out for this
- 8:03kind of stuff, and we don't wanna have seafood, whether it's farmed or whether
- 8:07it's wild, that are not sustainable and that are using forced labor, or
- 8:11they're using bad practices in fish feed plants, we need to make sure that
- 8:15we know every aspect, and transparency is the key, just like in science.
- 8:19So look, we talked four episodes on the food that feeds our fish, Some farmed
- 8:24seafood takes from the wild ocean, and some, like mussels and oysters, it
- 8:27gives it back because it filter feeds.
- 8:30Those wild fish feed real people, like the ones that are caught for the fish meal.
- 8:35And the communities like Abeny are fighting for them and winning.
- 8:38Like, that's the thing, it's changing.
- 8:40But the fight still needs to happen, not only in Africa, but also in
- 8:44Canada, in the US, in the UK, in Australia, wherever there's farmed
- 8:49fish and wherever that's sold.
- 8:51The boats are getting easier to see every single year, and the label
- 8:55is one tool that we can use to make sure that this is sustainable.
- 8:59And your questions are another tool.
- 9:01Ask those questions to those companies.
- 9:03Put their feet to the fire to make sure that they understand that, "Look,
- 9:06yeah, I wanna buy from you, but I wanna make sure you're doing this properly."
- 9:09And think about, like, this a compliance manager at a grocery store, the head
- 9:12office reading an email from a customer.
- 9:14"Does your seafood policy cover fish feed?" Then a second email,
- 9:17and then 100, Next year's report, it'll have a new paragraph.
- 9:21Trust me, it'll happen.
- 9:23In 2023, it took the companies one day to act once they could see.
- 9:28Help them see.
- 9:29Help them understand.
- 9:31That's it for this week's episodes, and today's episode, of course.
- 9:34we did all about Fish Feed.
- 9:35I wanna thank, Maya Martin from the Outlaw Ocean Project for coming on
- 9:40the show on Monday, helping us with all this stuff, and then being able
- 9:43to research it on their websites.
- 9:45I'll put the links to the websites, that they, provided.
- 9:47So much information, a five-year-long investigative report, that really
- 9:51revealed a lot, a lot of scary stuff, but a lot of stuff that needed to
- 9:54happen to get out into the open so that we can see what was happening.
- 9:59and I think that's important.
- 10:00and I'm glad that we were able to do it.
- 10:02I'm glad I was able to present it to you.
- 10:03Obviously, not glad, that's happening, but it's something that we can work to stop.
- 10:06And I wanna thank you so much for listening, and I'd
- 10:09love to hear your comments.
- 10:10This is the start of a conversation.
- 10:11I'd love for you to continue and have that conversation with me.
- 10:14And I wanna thank you so much for listening to this week's episode, to
- 10:17this episode, this week's episodes, and of course, the podcast in general.
- 10:20Don't forget to hit that follow button to make sure that you are following along
- 10:24and you don't miss each and every episode.
- 10:26Next week, we're gonna be talking about MPAs and marine protected areas and
- 10:29education and why it's so important, with an MPA expert and an education expert.
- 10:34And she's amazing.
- 10:35you're gonna be able to meet her, Judy Mann Lang, and she's awesome, and I
- 10:38can't wait for you to hear from her.
- 10:40And so I thank ya.
- 10:41So just don't forget to follow the podcast.
- 10:43And thank you so much for joining me on today's episode of the How
- 10:45to Protect the Ocean podcast.
- 10:46I'm your host, Andrew Lewin.
- 10:47Have a great day.
- 10:48We'll talk to you next time, and happy conservation.