Latest / National Geographic Magazine Vol. 08 - 05. May 1897 / National Geographic Magazine Vol 08 - 05 May 1897 - National Geographic Society
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- 0:00Speaker 1: Section one of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eighth, May
- 0:06Speaker 1: eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
- 0:11Speaker 1: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
- 0:14Speaker 1: to volunteer, please visit liprivox dot org. Recording by Avayi
- 0:20Speaker 1: in December two thousand seventeen, the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight,
- 0:27Speaker 1: number five, May eighteen ninety seven. A winter voyage through
- 0:33Speaker 1: the Straits of Magellan by the late Admiral R. W.
- 0:37Speaker 1: Mead U S. Navy, some twenty six years ago. I
- 0:43Speaker 1: received peremptory orders to assume command of the Narragansett and
- 0:48Speaker 1: sail forthwith to the Pacific Station. We left Sandy Hook
- 0:52Speaker 1: on the first plast of a Norwester, which followed on
- 0:55Speaker 1: the heels of a march Equinoctial, being the first steamer
- 0:59Speaker 1: of the Navy to leave the port of New York
- 1:02Speaker 1: with stun sails set, a low and a loft, and
- 1:05Speaker 1: no steam up. Whether it was this tribute to Boreas
- 1:10Speaker 1: that brought us good fortune, I do not know. But
- 1:13Speaker 1: we made a famous run to the line where Neptune,
- 1:16Speaker 1: having come on board and duly shaved and ducked several
- 1:20Speaker 1: score green horns our luck for the time deserted us,
- 1:24Speaker 1: and for the next two or three weeks the ship
- 1:26Speaker 1: fanned along with light airs and tedious calms, until the
- 1:30Speaker 1: fortieth day out saw us safely in the beautiful harbor
- 1:34Speaker 1: of Firio de Janeiro, tinkering away at a wretched old
- 1:37Speaker 1: pair of engines which had broken down when we tried
- 1:41Speaker 1: to use them to steam into harbor. Resuming our crews,
- 1:46Speaker 1: we were favored by a sea as smooth as glass
- 1:49Speaker 1: and with the most charming weather imaginable. But there is
- 1:53Speaker 1: a cry of land hoe from a loft, and what
- 1:57Speaker 1: we see proves to be Mount Wood, a military peak
- 2:00Speaker 1: of moderate elevation on the coast of Patagonia, and in
- 2:05Speaker 1: the vicinity of the very port San Jolyan, where Magellan
- 2:08Speaker 1: wintered his ships, about two hundred miles north of the Straits.
- 2:13Speaker 1: As we approached the land, it seems a pleasanter looking
- 2:16Speaker 1: coast than many I have seen, and though no doubt
- 2:20Speaker 1: we see it under most favorable circumstances of wind and weather.
- 2:25Speaker 1: I inclined to the belief that a popular idea in
- 2:27Speaker 1: regard to the dreariness and forbidding character of the shores
- 2:31Speaker 1: of Patagonia is a delusion which the commerce of the
- 2:34Speaker 1: future will dispel. The day after we made Mount Wood,
- 2:39Speaker 1: the weather became thick and the wind's qually, and, not
- 2:43Speaker 1: being able to see the land, we ran by the lead.
- 2:47Speaker 1: When near Cape Virgins, by our reckoning, the barometer commenced
- 2:51Speaker 1: to rise. Now arise in the glass in this latitude
- 2:56Speaker 1: fifty degrees south, the barometer having previously stood low. Oh
- 3:00Speaker 1: is an almost certain indication of a change of wind,
- 3:03Speaker 1: if not bad weather. So all hands were called to
- 3:07Speaker 1: reef topsails. Scarcely had the second reef been taken in
- 3:12Speaker 1: when the wind shifted in a moment from the north
- 3:15Speaker 1: landward north northeast to west southwest and blue in furious gusts.
- 3:21Speaker 1: The horizon suddenly cleared, the mists were dispelled, the air
- 3:25Speaker 1: became cold and raw, and by the rays of the
- 3:28Speaker 1: setting sun it was now three o'clock of a June day,
- 3:32Speaker 1: we saw in the distance Cape Virgins, with its abrupt
- 3:35Speaker 1: cliff like shore, sixteen miles dead to windward of us.
- 3:40Speaker 1: Thus far we had made the voyage from New York
- 3:43Speaker 1: entirely under sail, ships of war, not being expected to
- 3:46Speaker 1: steam unless necessary, we managed, with the aid of fore
- 3:51Speaker 1: and aft canvas, to crawl slowly to windward, and, there
- 3:56Speaker 1: being a bright full moon, crossed the great Sarmiento Bank
- 4:00Speaker 1: mouth of Cape Virgins, where the rise of the tide
- 4:03Speaker 1: is forty three feet, and by eleven o'clock that night
- 4:06Speaker 1: was safely at anchor in the straits, some four miles
- 4:10Speaker 1: west of Magellan's landfall. To make our voyage intelligible, it
- 4:16Speaker 1: will here be necessary to describe the general character of
- 4:19Speaker 1: the strait. It is safe to say that there is
- 4:22Speaker 1: no other part of the world where as a rule,
- 4:26Speaker 1: the weather is so tempestuous and dangerous as it is
- 4:29Speaker 1: of Cape Horn. There old Ocean exerts his full sovereignty,
- 4:34Speaker 1: and the winds and the waves are almost ceaselessly raging
- 4:38Speaker 1: and surging in wild tumult against the bleak forbidding iron
- 4:42Speaker 1: bound coast. The climate of Cape Horn is the most
- 4:46Speaker 1: stretched on Earth. Fierce storms of rain, hail and snow
- 4:51Speaker 1: drift in from the Atlantic, an Arctic and Pacific oceans
- 4:55Speaker 1: in everlasting succession, broken only by the furious Willie wars
- 4:59Speaker 1: or or Cape Horn squalls. The real difficulties of the
- 5:04Speaker 1: voyage commence at Cape Forward, the southern extremity of our continent,
- 5:09Speaker 1: which is one hundred seventy miles from Cape Virgins. Here
- 5:14Speaker 1: the weather undergoes an entire change, and no matter how
- 5:17Speaker 1: pleasant it has been before, the mariner may expect to
- 5:21Speaker 1: don his southwester the moment he doubles this precipitous headland
- 5:26Speaker 1: worthy of terminating so grand a continent. For steamers and
- 5:31Speaker 1: smart sailing schooners, the voyage through is merely one of
- 5:34Speaker 1: ordinary care and prudence. But for square rigged sailing craft
- 5:39Speaker 1: the difficulties are almost insuperable. Yet one large sailing ship,
- 5:44Speaker 1: the frigate Fisgaard, went through in the astonishing time of
- 5:48Speaker 1: seventeen days from Cape Virgins to Cape Pillar. The distance
- 5:54Speaker 1: by the usual route is three hundred fifteen nautical miles,
- 5:59Speaker 1: and to reverse this from the eastward, every course between west,
- 6:03Speaker 1: northwest and south southeast must at one time or other
- 6:07Speaker 1: be steered. And as the wind is persistently west or
- 6:11Speaker 1: southwest or always dead ahead, the difficulties to the sailing
- 6:16Speaker 1: ship are readily seen. Moreover, the character of the strait
- 6:20Speaker 1: changes materially as the voyager goes west. For to the
- 6:24Speaker 1: eastward of Cape Froward, as a rule, the weather is better,
- 6:28Speaker 1: the sunshines brighter, anchorages are more convenient, and the dangers
- 6:33Speaker 1: of navigation fewer in number. The strait may be geographically
- 6:39Speaker 1: divided as follows. One from Cape Virgins to Elizabeth Island,
- 6:44Speaker 1: the termination of the second narrows ninety five miles, where
- 6:48Speaker 1: the tides are very strong, the rise and fall extraordinary
- 6:52Speaker 1: forty three feet, the land comparatively low and entirely destitute
- 6:57Speaker 1: of timber. The weather generally good, and anchorage is safe
- 7:02Speaker 1: and convenient. Two from Elizabeth Island, where trees first make
- 7:08Speaker 1: their appearance and the land commences to rise, to Cape
- 7:11Speaker 1: Froward eighty miles. Here anchorages are frequent and safe, timber
- 7:17Speaker 1: is plentiful, the tides are weak, not exceeding five feet,
- 7:22Speaker 1: and the weather is comparatively pleasant. Three from Cape Froward
- 7:27Speaker 1: to Cape Cord fifty miles, with anchorages few and far between.
- 7:32Speaker 1: Currents strong and in places dangerous, where they almost constantly
- 7:37Speaker 1: tempestuous mountains of great height and bare of vegetation, their
- 7:42Speaker 1: peaks covered with snow or ice, natives savage and dangerous,
- 7:46Speaker 1: and voyaging even in steamers attended with risk. Lastly, from
- 7:52Speaker 1: Cape Cord to the Pacific ninety miles, where there are
- 7:56Speaker 1: few anchorages, and some of these as port Mercy dangerous
- 8:00Speaker 1: in the extreme. There is very little tide. The weather
- 8:04Speaker 1: is stormy nearly all the year, and the high mountains
- 8:07Speaker 1: are covered with eternal snow. The land aptly named by
- 8:11Speaker 1: Sir John Narborough ye Land of Desolation. When daylight came
- 8:18Speaker 1: on the morning after our arrival, we found ourselves anchored
- 8:22Speaker 1: off a long, low split of shingle, called by the
- 8:25Speaker 1: English navigator's Dungeness, from some fancied resemblance to the headland
- 8:30Speaker 1: of that name in the English Channel. To the eastward
- 8:34Speaker 1: was Cape Virgins, not unlike the Chalk Cliffs of England.
- 8:39Speaker 1: To the westward Loomed Cape Possession, a bold, dark looking headland,
- 8:43Speaker 1: while to the south, dimly visible in the gray of
- 8:46Speaker 1: the morning, was Macgallan's Land of Fire, a low indented
- 8:51Speaker 1: coast just rising above the distant horizon. The straits are
- 8:55Speaker 1: sixteen miles wide at this point. Following the usual rule
- 8:59Speaker 1: of the man dinner in these parts, we had prepared
- 9:02Speaker 1: beforehand our tables for tides, sunrise and sunset. The light
- 9:06Speaker 1: yards and top gallant masts were struck all stun sails
- 9:10Speaker 1: and booms sent on deck, and everything made snug aloft
- 9:14Speaker 1: for steaming against the strong westerly winds we expected to encounter.
- 9:20Speaker 1: But our apprehensions of bad weather proved groundless. The southwester
- 9:25Speaker 1: had died out, and the day broke calm and comparatively clear.
- 9:30Speaker 1: The sun shone out of a leaden hued sky, with
- 9:33Speaker 1: just warmth enough to be pleasant, and weighing our anchor
- 9:37Speaker 1: with a favorable flood tide, we were soon passing the
- 9:40Speaker 1: land at the rate of thirteen knots an hour, though
- 9:43Speaker 1: the engineer would have gone wild if anyone had suggested
- 9:46Speaker 1: to him the possibility of the Narrogansett's engines driving her
- 9:50Speaker 1: over eight knots. The rise and fall of the tide
- 9:54Speaker 1: in this part of the strait is very great. It
- 9:57Speaker 1: is no less than forty three feet, and the singular
- 10:00Speaker 1: circumstance attends the changes of the tidal stream. The flood,
- 10:05Speaker 1: which runs with great velocity to the westward, commences about
- 10:09Speaker 1: three hours before it is low water by the beach,
- 10:12Speaker 1: and so here we were rapidly going west with the
- 10:15Speaker 1: flood tide, while apparently the water was everywhere ebbing by
- 10:19Speaker 1: the shore. Another feature in the tides east of Cape
- 10:23Speaker 1: Forward is that the time of high water grows later
- 10:27Speaker 1: as the ship proceeds to the westward, so that it
- 10:30Speaker 1: is possible in a fast steamer starting from Cape Virgins
- 10:34Speaker 1: with a favorable flood to reach the Chilian settlement at
- 10:37Speaker 1: Sandy Point one hundred ten miles in a daylight run
- 10:41Speaker 1: in June, which corresponds to our December. As we pass
- 10:48Speaker 1: Cape Possession, the wind draws in fresh gusts from the
- 10:51Speaker 1: northward and westward, and we set the fore and aft sails,
- 10:55Speaker 1: which increases the vessel's speed to fourteen knots. We rapidly
- 11:00Speaker 1: approach the first narrows, for the low cliff like shores
- 11:04Speaker 1: on each side are now plainly visible, and all hands
- 11:08Speaker 1: are on deck to witness the terrible tide race we
- 11:11Speaker 1: have heard so much about. By ten o'clock we are
- 11:14Speaker 1: fairly in the narrow pass, which is a perfectly straight
- 11:18Speaker 1: reach of perpendicular wall like shore nine miles long by
- 11:22Speaker 1: two miles broad, with very deep water, precipitous beach at
- 11:27Speaker 1: low tide, and a straight rapid current of eight knots
- 11:31Speaker 1: an hour. We are fairly flying along the land and
- 11:35Speaker 1: by noon, have made over sixty nautical miles since we started.
- 11:40Speaker 1: We are clear of the narrows dimly visible astern and
- 11:44Speaker 1: skirting the southern shore of Philip Bay. By two o'clock
- 11:49Speaker 1: we are nearly up with the second narrows. But now
- 11:52Speaker 1: the flant tide is done, and it would be the
- 11:54Speaker 1: merest folly to attempt to force the Narrogansett through against
- 11:58Speaker 1: the ebb. So we give up all hope of reaching
- 12:00Speaker 1: Sandy Point this evening, and steam slowly in for the
- 12:04Speaker 1: anchorage under Gregory's summit. On the cliff abreast of the ship,
- 12:10Speaker 1: we observe a native camp and see some animals grazing
- 12:14Speaker 1: on the downs. Soon there are other signs of life,
- 12:18Speaker 1: and a dozen Indians come sweeping along on horseback. They
- 12:22Speaker 1: are splendidly mounted and seem a fine athletic race. Now
- 12:27Speaker 1: they are on the edge of the bluff making signals
- 12:29Speaker 1: to us, but it is too late to communicate with
- 12:32Speaker 1: the shore. And moreover, the character of ye native hereabouts
- 12:38Speaker 1: is open to suspicion, though to do the Indians simple justice.
- 12:42Speaker 1: They have been rendered hostile to all white men by
- 12:45Speaker 1: two centuries of brutality at the hands of the Spaniards
- 12:49Speaker 1: and their descendants. As a people, these Patagonians are less
- 12:54Speaker 1: savage and intractable than the Fuegians or natives of the
- 12:57Speaker 1: southern and western shores. There are, in truth some very
- 13:02Speaker 1: striking differences between these two races, and it may be
- 13:05Speaker 1: well to allude to them here. In the first place,
- 13:09Speaker 1: the term Patagonian, unless explained, is apt to mislead, for
- 13:14Speaker 1: the whole of the continent south of the parallel of
- 13:17Speaker 1: forty degrees is known as Patagonia and is geographically divided
- 13:22Speaker 1: by the mountains into Eastern and Western Patagonia, inhabited, as
- 13:26Speaker 1: far as we know, by two very different races, though
- 13:30Speaker 1: doctor Darwin, in his narrative of the Beagle's Voyage in
- 13:33Speaker 1: eighteen thirty one, declares his conviction that they are the
- 13:37Speaker 1: same race, and that the present difference is caused by environment.
- 13:42Speaker 1: This is probable, as food, climate and environment are doubtless
- 13:47Speaker 1: responsible for most racial differences. But strictly speaking, the Patagonians
- 13:53Speaker 1: are the natives of Eastern Patagonia. For the inhabitants of
- 13:57Speaker 1: the islands along the Smyth Channel north of Magalan Straits
- 14:01Speaker 1: and western Patagonia as far as the Gulf of Penas
- 14:05Speaker 1: are of the same family as the natives of Tierra
- 14:08Speaker 1: del Fuego and are invariably designated as Fuegians. The Patagonians
- 14:14Speaker 1: then inhabit the northern side of the straight east of
- 14:17Speaker 1: Cape Froward and the chain of mountains known as the
- 14:20Speaker 1: Southern Andes, and are probably of the same family as
- 14:24Speaker 1: the Araucanians, so justly celebrated for their prowest in their
- 14:29Speaker 1: encounters with the steel clad warriors of Spain in the
- 14:32Speaker 1: sixteenth century. Of these Patagonians, one explorer who passed some
- 14:38Speaker 1: time with them, says quote, they are very tall, finely formed,
- 14:44Speaker 1: and athletic, with jet black eyes, black coarse hair, thick lips,
- 14:49Speaker 1: and the skin of reddish brown color. They often paint
- 14:53Speaker 1: themselves in a hideous manner and then grease themselves all over.
- 14:58Speaker 1: They approve the early fashions, Garden of Eden, and so on,
- 15:02Speaker 1: with occasionally a mantle of skin thrown over their shoulders.
- 15:06Speaker 1: They worship a God of good and a God of evil,
- 15:09Speaker 1: and all that happens is considered as directly sent by
- 15:12Speaker 1: one or the other of these deities. They do not
- 15:16Speaker 1: believe in the final salvation of the wicked. They are
- 15:19Speaker 1: averse to Christianity, uncontrollable in a state of anger, and
- 15:24Speaker 1: passionately fond of strong drink. Their favorite food is horseflesh
- 15:29Speaker 1: and the blood of animals, and though they have cooking utensils,
- 15:32Speaker 1: they prefer to eat their meat raw. They subsist by
- 15:36Speaker 1: hunting the guanaco An animal never seen in Patagonia to
- 15:40Speaker 1: the westward of Cape Froward, but very numerous on the
- 15:44Speaker 1: plains of eastern Patagonia. These people live either in camp
- 15:48Speaker 1: or on horseback, and do not seem to be fishermen,
- 15:52Speaker 1: at least they are not known to have canoes, their
- 15:55Speaker 1: bows and arrows. Betoken that they live by hunting, as
- 15:59Speaker 1: their arrow heads are both poisoned and unpoisoned, and it
- 16:03Speaker 1: is not at all likely they would waste the latter
- 16:05Speaker 1: on their enemies. Even so, late as eighteen seventy one
- 16:09Speaker 1: it was said they possessed few firearms. They are a bold,
- 16:14Speaker 1: warlike and fearless race, possessing certain magnanimous traits, and in
- 16:19Speaker 1: this they differ widely from the natives of the southern
- 16:22Speaker 1: and western shores of Magallan Straits end quote the same
- 16:29Speaker 1: explorers as of the Fuegians. Quote They are an ugly,
- 16:33Speaker 1: savage race who in hard times become cannibals, and their
- 16:37Speaker 1: most splendid feasts are characterized by dirt, filth, and misery.
- 16:42Speaker 1: Christianity seems to have had no power among them. End quote.
- 16:51Speaker 1: Everyone who has voyaged in these waters regards the Fuegians
- 16:54Speaker 1: as treacherous and dangerous. They are short in stature and
- 16:58Speaker 1: of a dirty copper color, their only clothing, even in
- 17:02Speaker 1: the coldest weather, being a seal skin or deer skin,
- 17:06Speaker 1: worn with the hair outward, and this solitary garment vermin included,
- 17:11Speaker 1: they will readily exchange for a little biscuit or tobacco.
- 17:15Speaker 1: Darwin admits their cannibalism, which he excuses on the plea
- 17:19Speaker 1: of necessity. When pressed by hunger, they kill first their
- 17:24Speaker 1: old women and then their dogs, because said one of them, doggie,
- 17:29Speaker 1: he catch otter, old woman, she no catchy otter. But
- 17:34Speaker 1: usually they live by fishing and what they can gather
- 17:37Speaker 1: from the rocks, as for instance, snails and mussels, but
- 17:41Speaker 1: they will eagerly devour putrid seal's flesh and the most
- 17:44Speaker 1: disgusting offal. They live in huts constructed in a very
- 17:49Speaker 1: primitive way of the branches of trees, and have no
- 17:52Speaker 1: articles of traffic except their weapons and implements, which are
- 17:56Speaker 1: sometimes bought as curiosities. Thievish, cunning and greedy, and great
- 18:02Speaker 1: caution is requisite in dealing with them. Attempts have been
- 18:06Speaker 1: made by English missionaries to lessen their barbarism, but with
- 18:10Speaker 1: no success, a fact which is the more singular as
- 18:14Speaker 1: even the Fiji islanders have been rendered subject to the
- 18:17Speaker 1: civilizing influences of Christianity. Captain Mayne, who recently resurveyed these
- 18:25Speaker 1: waters in h B M Ship Nassau, states that these
- 18:30Speaker 1: people pass most of their time in canoes and make
- 18:33Speaker 1: voyages from the Straits to the Gulf of penyas a
- 18:36Speaker 1: distance of many miles. Though usually but few canoes are
- 18:41Speaker 1: seen passing through. It is extraordinary how rapidly a hundred
- 18:45Speaker 1: or more will gather together if they can see an
- 18:47Speaker 1: opportunity for attacking boats, small vessels or a wreck. How
- 18:53Speaker 1: the rendezvous is known is a mystery, says Captain Mayne.
- 18:57Speaker 1: But fires are seen smoking all along the coat four miles,
- 19:01Speaker 1: and out of every creek a canoe will be seen
- 19:04Speaker 1: shooting towards the rallying point. But there is no romance
- 19:07Speaker 1: whatever about their appearance. For instead of the graceful shape
- 19:11Speaker 1: of the Indian canoe, these miserable craft are simply planks
- 19:16Speaker 1: tied together with thongs or fibers of trees, without the
- 19:19Speaker 1: slightest regard to foreign and instead of being urged along
- 19:23Speaker 1: by paddles, they are rowed by oars rudely made of
- 19:26Speaker 1: pieces of board tied to the end of a short pole.
- 19:31Speaker 1: On the bottom of the boat, in the middle is
- 19:33Speaker 1: a small fire, and on each side of it are
- 19:36Speaker 1: crouched six or eight men, women, or children, according to
- 19:40Speaker 1: the size of the craft. These are generally, as we
- 19:44Speaker 1: have said, almost entirely naked, the women appearing to care
- 19:48Speaker 1: less about clothing than the men. A very striking difference
- 19:53Speaker 1: between these people and the Patagonians was noticed by Captain
- 19:57Speaker 1: Fitzroy in eighteen thirty and subsequently by Captain Mayne in
- 20:02Speaker 1: eighteen sixty seven. This is that while the Patagonian will
- 20:06Speaker 1: generally drink all the rum he can get, and is
- 20:09Speaker 1: always more or less drunk when near a settlement, the
- 20:13Speaker 1: Fuegian cannot be persuaded to drink at all, and if
- 20:17Speaker 1: he is enticed into tasting strong liquor of any kind
- 20:20Speaker 1: will always put it away with a wry face. In fact,
- 20:25Speaker 1: this is the solitary redeeming trait in these savages, who
- 20:29Speaker 1: are indeed to be dreaded, for they have frequently attacked
- 20:32Speaker 1: and overcome the crews of passing vessels. The next morning
- 20:39Speaker 1: we were on the way with the first of the flood,
- 20:42Speaker 1: and steamed a round Cape Gregory into the second narrows
- 20:46Speaker 1: up to Elizabeth Island. The scenery was as tame and
- 20:50Speaker 1: uninteresting as possible, but now for the first time we
- 20:54Speaker 1: caught sight of the distant mountains to the southward, with
- 20:57Speaker 1: their snowy peaks and glaciers, passing the island. We described
- 21:02Speaker 1: the clearing above the settlement at Punta Arenas, and soon
- 21:06Speaker 1: after the village was in full view, showing to much
- 21:09Speaker 1: advantage its white houses and fences dotting the hillsides. It
- 21:14Speaker 1: is now a colony of Chile, originally founded as a
- 21:18Speaker 1: penal settlement in eighteen forty nine, when the government removed
- 21:22Speaker 1: its post from Port Famine, twenty eight miles to the southward.
- 21:26Speaker 1: A dreadful tragedy took place in eighteen fifty one, the
- 21:30Speaker 1: convicts rising above the garrison, seizing several vessels and murdering
- 21:34Speaker 1: the governor and his subordinates with circumstances of atrocious cruelty,
- 21:39Speaker 1: since which time the practice of sending felons there has
- 21:42Speaker 1: been abandoned. The village consists of about one hundred houses,
- 21:47Speaker 1: built upon ground which slopes gradually back from the water.
- 21:52Speaker 1: The governor was very enthusiastic about the success of the colony,
- 21:56Speaker 1: and showed some gold nuggets found in the little stream
- 21:59Speaker 1: east of the village. The attractions of Sandy Point were
- 22:02Speaker 1: insufficient to detain us long, and on the next evening
- 22:06Speaker 1: we left by moonlight, steaming slowly for that magnificent headland,
- 22:11Speaker 1: Cape Froward. The morning sun shone bright and beautiful over
- 22:17Speaker 1: the lofty, snow capped hills, while in the valleys, which
- 22:20Speaker 1: were entirely free from snow, a flood of golden light
- 22:23Speaker 1: upon the dark green foliage of the forest rendered the
- 22:27Speaker 1: landscape very charming. The shore, after passing Cape's sun easy
- 22:32Speaker 1: draw dotted with numerous little bays, in one of which
- 22:36Speaker 1: known as Jack Harbor. The celebrated Bougainville in seventeen sixty
- 22:41Speaker 1: four moored his ships and cut timber for the French
- 22:44Speaker 1: colony on the Maloi, now the Falkland Islands. The cove,
- 22:49Speaker 1: which is hardly larger than an ordinary wet dog, is
- 22:52Speaker 1: a romantic looking nook sheltered completely, and to add to
- 22:57Speaker 1: his beauty, a sparkling mountain rivulet tusumbles noisily into the
- 23:01Speaker 1: sea at its head. At noon, we had reached our
- 23:06Speaker 1: extreme southern limit and where off cape forward. Though up
- 23:10Speaker 1: to this time the weather had been beautifully clear and pleasant,
- 23:14Speaker 1: the moment we rounded this magnificent terminus of our continent
- 23:18Speaker 1: we felt a change. The bright sky gave place to
- 23:22Speaker 1: an overcast, leaden hued one, The air grew colder, and
- 23:26Speaker 1: for the first time since entering the Strait, we felt
- 23:29Speaker 1: the willy war. These winds are peculiar to this region,
- 23:34Speaker 1: the name being corrupted from the term world's avas of
- 23:38Speaker 1: the old navigators and seal hunters. They are rotary squalls
- 23:43Speaker 1: which blow at times with indescribable fury, seeming apparently to
- 23:48Speaker 1: come from every point of the compass. There is one
- 23:51Speaker 1: peculiarity about these squalls which seems to have escaped notice hitherto.
- 23:57Speaker 1: This is the singularly mournful whistlings, like the sighing of
- 24:01Speaker 1: an Aeolian harp, which invariably precedes and follows them. Cape Froward,
- 24:08Speaker 1: fifty three degrees fifty four minutes south seventy one degrees
- 24:13Speaker 1: eighteen minutes west is the southern extremity of the continent
- 24:17Speaker 1: of America. It is one of the grandest headlands in
- 24:21Speaker 1: the world. And I say this after a lengthened experience
- 24:24Speaker 1: at sea. Let those who have seen the sea face
- 24:28Speaker 1: of Gibraltar imagine a thousand feet added to the rock,
- 24:32Speaker 1: and they will have an idea of the grandeur of
- 24:35Speaker 1: Cape Froward. But we are now on the home stretch
- 24:38Speaker 1: for San Francisco. As the ship doubles the pitch of
- 24:41Speaker 1: the cape and edges closer and closer to the eastern
- 24:45Speaker 1: shore to avoid the fury of the west wind, of
- 24:48Speaker 1: the force of which the white caps and heavy sea
- 24:51Speaker 1: in the middle of Froward reach give indications. It was
- 24:57Speaker 1: quite dark when the ship reached Fortescue Bay and anchored.
- 25:02Speaker 1: This is the most secure anchorage in the strait and
- 25:04Speaker 1: may eventually become the principal shopping point of mail steamers.
- 25:09Speaker 1: There is an outer and an inner harbor, the latter
- 25:13Speaker 1: known as Port Gallant, being accessible for ordinary steam vessels.
- 25:18Speaker 1: The view from the anchorage is very fine. There are
- 25:21Speaker 1: several prettily wooded islets separating Fortescue Bay from Port Gallant,
- 25:27Speaker 1: while Mount Cross, covered with snow, rises gradually to a
- 25:31Speaker 1: height of three thousand feet and completely overlooks the anchorage.
- 25:37Speaker 1: A few weeks before our arrival off Port Gallant, it
- 25:41Speaker 1: had been the scene of a tragical occurrence, the captain
- 25:45Speaker 1: and three men of an English vessel, the Propontis, having
- 25:48Speaker 1: been murdered by the Fuegians while obtaining water. On our arrival,
- 25:54Speaker 1: the Fuegians had apparently deserted that part of the strait.
- 25:58Speaker 1: The governor had evidently seemed it impossible to apprehend the
- 26:01Speaker 1: wretches concerned in these frightful murders. The fate of these
- 26:06Speaker 1: unfortunate men should be a warning to small merchant vessels.
- 26:12Speaker 1: The next day was mostly consumed in making the run
- 26:15Speaker 1: from Port Gallant to Borgia Bay, the wind being adverse
- 26:19Speaker 1: and the tide strongly against us, but the beautiful scenery
- 26:23Speaker 1: compensated for the tediousness of the trip. It was by
- 26:27Speaker 1: far the finest that we had yet seen. The serrated
- 26:31Speaker 1: ranges of mountains on Cordoba peninsula, covered with snow, and
- 26:35Speaker 1: glaciers sparkling in the sunlight are very grand. The character
- 26:40Speaker 1: of the strait seems to change entirely when a breast
- 26:43Speaker 1: of Jerome Channel, at the entrance to which Cordoba Peninsula
- 26:47Speaker 1: apparently blocks up the strait, which now assumes all the
- 26:50Speaker 1: grandeur and beauty of an alpine lake. The ship anchored
- 26:55Speaker 1: in the deep waters of Byron's Island Bay, under the
- 26:58Speaker 1: shadows of Borgiama Mountain, towering grandly three thousand feet above
- 27:03Speaker 1: our heads. A landing party soon woke the echoes of
- 27:07Speaker 1: the mountain with the sharp crack of the rifle, the
- 27:10Speaker 1: sound reverberating in prolonged echoes. The scenery on the mountain
- 27:15Speaker 1: side is very picturesque, but the ascent is made under difficulties.
- 27:20Speaker 1: The deep bay is thoroughly sheltered, and to add to
- 27:24Speaker 1: its beauty, three sparkling rivulets fall into it at different points.
- 27:29Speaker 1: A peculiar feature of the place, which is a favorite
- 27:32Speaker 1: post office, is the great number of boards nailed to
- 27:36Speaker 1: the trees, which serve as a rough lock of the
- 27:39Speaker 1: numerous vessels that in the last fifty years have touched here.
- 27:43Speaker 1: A very conspicuous one drew our attention. It read US
- 27:47Speaker 1: Sloop of War Decatur, December eleventh, eighteen fifty four. All Well.
- 27:54Speaker 1: This ship had then been eighty days in the strait,
- 27:57Speaker 1: and was finally towed through by the Uni States steamer
- 28:01Speaker 1: Massachusetts Captain R. W. Mead, father of the writer, Before
- 28:07Speaker 1: leaving the Narragansett's board. Five days in the straits, all
- 28:12Speaker 1: Well was nailed above the decaturs. The trees at Borgier
- 28:18Speaker 1: Bay differ from those at some other points, being of
- 28:21Speaker 1: great girth and gnarled and stunted in their growth. As
- 28:25Speaker 1: soon as the moon was up, the ship steamed westward
- 28:28Speaker 1: past the bold cliff of El Morion the Helmet, and
- 28:32Speaker 1: was at last fairly pointed for the great long reach
- 28:35Speaker 1: to the Pacific. The lights and shadows reflected by the
- 28:40Speaker 1: moon upon the dark waters of the Strait here almost unfathomable.
- 28:45Speaker 1: The dark spots under the overhanging cliffs of the lofty
- 28:48Speaker 1: mountains at the flood of silver moonlight beyond, rendered the
- 28:52Speaker 1: scene one of surpassing beauty. The night was calm and quiet,
- 28:57Speaker 1: the stars overhead shone with the picture huliar brilliancy of
- 29:01Speaker 1: the high latitude, and everything promised for a quick run
- 29:04Speaker 1: to the Pacific. At ten next morning, we had passed
- 29:09Speaker 1: Glacier Bay and the chill, dreary coast between it and
- 29:12Speaker 1: the Spanish Gulf with the unpronounceable name Saltegua, when a
- 29:17Speaker 1: change in the weather became apparent at two o'clock in
- 29:22Speaker 1: the afternoon. The Pacific Ocean was only thirty five miles off,
- 29:26Speaker 1: but the long swell we now encountered and the stormy
- 29:29Speaker 1: appearance of the weather compelled us to choose between a
- 29:32Speaker 1: port of refuge or a stormy night in the open street.
- 29:37Speaker 1: Portchuruka on Desolation Island seemed the best harbor, and the
- 29:42Speaker 1: ship bore up for the narrow entrance, there being no
- 29:46Speaker 1: bridge on the narrogansit. The captain took his place on
- 29:49Speaker 1: the fauxhall as pilot. The navigating lieutenant held the chart,
- 29:54Speaker 1: and an old sailor had a tarpaulin over it to
- 29:57Speaker 1: keep it from getting wet. Cav hands were in the
- 30:01Speaker 1: chains and at the engine room bell and all hands
- 30:04Speaker 1: were called to bring ship to anchor. The steamer was
- 30:08Speaker 1: heading for two small rocky islets about fifty yards apart,
- 30:12Speaker 1: dimly visible through the sleet and mist. Of a driving squall.
- 30:17Speaker 1: The surf broke furiously all along the rocky shore. Slow down,
- 30:22Speaker 1: says the captain from his lookout on the foxel and
- 30:25Speaker 1: slow it is no soundings. In truth, none could be
- 30:30Speaker 1: found here with two hundred fathoms of line. In a
- 30:34Speaker 1: few minutes a narrow channel is descried, leading apparently into
- 30:38Speaker 1: the very bowels of the mountain, which towers thousands of
- 30:42Speaker 1: feet above us port from the foxhil port it is Sir,
- 30:48Speaker 1: from the quartermaster at the wheel, and the ship's head
- 30:51Speaker 1: flies to starboard, obedient to the helm. All hands are
- 30:56Speaker 1: at their stations, both anchors ready at the sidellans fore
- 31:00Speaker 1: and aft is profound. We enter the passage, and the
- 31:04Speaker 1: helm is alternately hard up and hard down as we
- 31:07Speaker 1: thread our way through the narrow pass scarce two hundred
- 31:11Speaker 1: yards wide, bordered by rocks and islets, upon which the
- 31:15Speaker 1: sea roars and surges dismally. Now we emerge into an
- 31:19Speaker 1: inland sea, which, in the thick weather seems almost illimitable.
- 31:24Speaker 1: The shore is being perpendicular walls of rock two and
- 31:28Speaker 1: three thousand feet in height. The vessel turns short round
- 31:32Speaker 1: to port and shoots a hedge toward a little cove
- 31:35Speaker 1: under the shadow of an immense mountain. By the mark
- 31:39Speaker 1: seventeen comes from the chains and the anchor is let.
- 31:43Speaker 1: Go Hauses are run from the ship to one of
- 31:47Speaker 1: the few stunted trees to keep the vessel clear of
- 31:50Speaker 1: the rocks, and the Narragansett is safely sheltered for the night.
- 31:56Speaker 1: Sir John Narborough spoke soberly and truly when he named
- 32:00Speaker 1: this sty isle of desolation. Nothing can be more grandly
- 32:04Speaker 1: or profoundly desolate than the scenery in the neighborhood of
- 32:08Speaker 1: old Field Anchorage Port t Ruka. The term port is
- 32:13Speaker 1: an entire misnomer, for beyond two small coves where anchorage
- 32:17Speaker 1: may be obtained in from fifteen to forty fathoms of water,
- 32:21Speaker 1: there is no bottom to be found with less than
- 32:24Speaker 1: fifty or one hundred fathoms of line. In many places
- 32:28Speaker 1: there are no soundings at all. The deep inlets of
- 32:32Speaker 1: this inland sea are bordered by awful precipices, broken by
- 32:36Speaker 1: frightful chasms and ravines. There are a few stunted trees
- 32:41Speaker 1: along the beach, but on the mountain side not even
- 32:44Speaker 1: the usual moss or lichen, nothing but bare slate colored,
- 32:49Speaker 1: savage looking rocks covered with ice and snow. The place
- 32:54Speaker 1: is fully sheltered, and all that night the ship lay
- 32:57Speaker 1: profoundly quiet, nor to breath of air stirring, though the
- 33:01Speaker 1: roar of the sea and the whistling of the furious
- 33:04Speaker 1: west wind outside could be distinctly heard. A party left
- 33:08Speaker 1: the ship before dark to explore the head of the
- 33:11Speaker 1: little cove. They found some signs of vegetation in the
- 33:15Speaker 1: gully at the base of the cliff under which the
- 33:18Speaker 1: ship was moored, and one of the explorers collected a
- 33:21Speaker 1: bouquet of Fuegian flowers. The sailors, however, looking rather toward
- 33:26Speaker 1: the practical than the beautiful, found a bed of fine muscles,
- 33:30Speaker 1: upon which we all regaled ourselves that evening. The next morning,
- 33:37Speaker 1: the weather, though overcast with rain squalls at intervals, was
- 33:41Speaker 1: sufficiently favorable to admit of an attempt to leave. Some
- 33:45Speaker 1: of the officers seemed dubious of the narraganset's ability to
- 33:49Speaker 1: clear the strait, but the captain concluded to take the chances,
- 33:53Speaker 1: and at noon Cape Pillar was in sight on the
- 33:56Speaker 1: port bow. With a full head of steam and the
- 34:01Speaker 1: fore and aft canvas, the ship made good way, and
- 34:04Speaker 1: at two o'clock passed out of the strait and steered
- 34:07Speaker 1: directly west for an offing. But both the wind and
- 34:11Speaker 1: sea were now rapidly rising. At dark it was blowing
- 34:15Speaker 1: a furious gale from the west southwest, with one of
- 34:19Speaker 1: the most tremendous rolling seas. I ever saw no chance
- 34:23Speaker 1: to run back or find an anchorage in such weather
- 34:26Speaker 1: as this. At times the squalls of wind, sleet and
- 34:30Speaker 1: rain were so thick that we could not see a
- 34:32Speaker 1: ship's length. There was nothing to do now but to
- 34:36Speaker 1: claw off shore under every inch of storm canvas the
- 34:39Speaker 1: vessel could carry, and trusted to the engines to help
- 34:43Speaker 1: us to gain an offing. At eight o'clock that night,
- 34:47Speaker 1: the hatches fore and aft were securely battened down, and
- 34:51Speaker 1: the lee rail of the ship was under water as
- 34:53Speaker 1: she struggled under sail and steam against the storm and sea.
- 34:58Speaker 1: Dimly visible astern through the furious, driving squalls was Cape Pillar,
- 35:03Speaker 1: eight miles distant on the lee beam, where the black
- 35:07Speaker 1: rocks of Los Apostoles, the ship drifting slowly southward in
- 35:11Speaker 1: dangerous proximity to them. The wind veered constantly from point
- 35:16Speaker 1: to point, and the squalls came with blinding and terrific force.
- 35:21Speaker 1: But everything held well, and the providence which watches over
- 35:25Speaker 1: poor Jack, sent us a slant of wind which enabled
- 35:28Speaker 1: us to make an offing during that dark, dismal and
- 35:31Speaker 1: anxious night. For eight long days and nights, this state
- 35:37Speaker 1: of things continued, the ship vainly struggling to get to
- 35:40Speaker 1: the westward, the squalls of sleet and snow never continuing
- 35:44Speaker 1: long enough from southwest to enable the vessel to get
- 35:47Speaker 1: north at all. On the eighth day, the vessel was
- 35:51Speaker 1: nearly as far south as the parallel of Cape Horn,
- 35:54Speaker 1: with a fair prospect of being driven round the cape. Altogether,
- 35:59Speaker 1: there were but a few tu tons of coal left,
- 36:01Speaker 1: and the ship was still one thousand, two hundred miles
- 36:04Speaker 1: from Valparaiso. Affairs looked blue. Many of the men were
- 36:09Speaker 1: worn out, exhausted by cold and fatigue. Several of the
- 36:13Speaker 1: officers were in the same condition. But all ill fortune,
- 36:18Speaker 1: as all good fortune, must at some period, come to
- 36:21Speaker 1: an end, And so it happened that the next day
- 36:25Speaker 1: the wind shifted to the south, and with strong and
- 36:28Speaker 1: favoring gales, the old ship went rapidly north under a
- 36:31Speaker 1: press of canvas, and in ten days was safely anchored
- 36:35Speaker 1: in the harbor of Valparaiso, and so ended the Narragansett's
- 36:41Speaker 1: Winter Voyage through the Straits of Magellan. End of Section one.
- 36:54Speaker 2: Section two of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight May eighteen,
- 36:59Speaker 2: nine twenty seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
- 37:04Speaker 2: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
- 37:08Speaker 2: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B.
- 37:15Speaker 2: Admiral R. W. Mead U s N. When the principal
- 37:20Speaker 2: contents of this number of the National Geographic Magazine were
- 37:24Speaker 2: sent to the printer, there was no indication that the
- 37:27Speaker 2: gallant and accomplished author of the article A Winter Voyage
- 37:31Speaker 2: through the Straits of Magellan, would have completed the long
- 37:35Speaker 2: and eventful voyage of life before his stirring narrative of
- 37:39Speaker 2: one of the most interesting portions of his famous crews
- 37:43Speaker 2: in the Narragansett could be placed in the hands of
- 37:46Speaker 2: our readers. On the first of May, however, he succumbed
- 37:50Speaker 2: to the effects of a surgical operation from which he
- 37:53Speaker 2: had been supposed by his friends to have permanently rallied.
- 37:57Speaker 2: It is impossible on the eve of going to press
- 38:00Speaker 2: to present more than the briefest outline of Admiral Mede's
- 38:04Speaker 2: distinguished career, or to render adequate tribute to his memory.
- 38:09Speaker 2: It must suffice to remind our readers of his brilliant
- 38:12Speaker 2: career at college, of his becoming navigating Officer of the
- 38:16Speaker 2: Cumberland before he was nineteen years of age, of his
- 38:20Speaker 2: command of a naval division engaged with the enemy before
- 38:25Speaker 2: he was twenty five. Of the dauntless courage, good judgment,
- 38:29Speaker 2: and unfailing skill that won for him time and again,
- 38:33Speaker 2: the commendations of his superior officers, of his historic crews
- 38:38Speaker 2: of sixty thousand miles mainly under canvas in the Narragansett,
- 38:43Speaker 2: of his success as a professor of seamanship and naval tactics,
- 38:47Speaker 2: of his numerous contributions to periodical literature, and of his
- 38:52Speaker 2: ever welcome appearances before the National Geographic Society, of which
- 38:57Speaker 2: he was an active member. The accompanying the article contains
- 39:01Speaker 2: an illusion which we cannot regard as without significance to
- 39:05Speaker 2: the providence which watches over poor Jack himself. Handsome, courageous,
- 39:11Speaker 2: true hearted, and patriotic, we can say of Admiral Mead
- 39:15Speaker 2: in the words of Dibden's Grand Old Sea Song. His
- 39:19Speaker 2: form was of the manliest beauty. His heart was kind
- 39:23Speaker 2: and soft, faithful. Below he did his duty, and now
- 39:27Speaker 2: he's gone aloft j h.
- 39:33Speaker 3: End of Section two, Section three of the National Geographic Magazine,
- 39:43Speaker 3: Volume eight May eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording.
- 39:48Speaker 3: All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more
- 39:51Speaker 3: information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording
- 39:56Speaker 3: by Marianne Spiegel Rica by Signor Ricardo Villefranca, Council General
- 40:03Speaker 3: of the Republic of Costa Rica at San Jose, Guatemala.
- 40:09Speaker 3: It is impossible to give, within the space allotted to me,
- 40:12Speaker 3: a complete idea of Costa Rica, or to describe explicitly
- 40:16Speaker 3: its varied resources in industries. I can but dwell briefly
- 40:20Speaker 3: on the more important features of the land, the characteristics
- 40:23Speaker 3: of the people, and the natural resources of the country.
- 40:27Speaker 3: The peculiarly favorable situation of Costa Rica might well be
- 40:31Speaker 3: the envy of all nations, for it lies between the
- 40:34Speaker 3: continents of the New World and between the Earth's greatest seas.
- 40:38Speaker 3: It enjoys a temperate climate with the advantages of a
- 40:41Speaker 3: tropical sun. It is one of the smallest of small nations,
- 40:46Speaker 3: a true gem of American republics. Its people are peaceful
- 40:50Speaker 3: and law abiding. Its republican form of government copied from
- 40:54Speaker 3: the United States, is very popular. Its climate is moderate,
- 40:59Speaker 3: without extremes of heat or cold, and is remarkably healthful.
- 41:03Speaker 3: The dreaded fevers are found only along the swampy coastal fringe,
- 41:07Speaker 3: and other low lying land of which there is little.
- 41:10Speaker 3: In Costa Rica against visionary dangers, we have a land
- 41:14Speaker 3: of prolonged spring and autumnal splendor, a soil upon which
- 41:19Speaker 3: the flowers smile with a perennial bloom. Costa Rica is
- 41:24Speaker 3: feeble for want of sufficient population, but she possesses a
- 41:27Speaker 3: rich store of undeveloped resources in her widely disseminated minerals
- 41:32Speaker 3: and the endless productions of her fertile soil. Her forests
- 41:36Speaker 3: are in a calculable natural wealth. Throughout the country, the
- 41:40Speaker 3: land is thickly covered with gigantic trees, among the finest
- 41:43Speaker 3: in the world, and all are of a rare quality,
- 41:47Speaker 3: such as mahogany, cedar, rosewood, Lignum vitae, and a number
- 41:53Speaker 3: of dye woods. Such as annatto and indigo. Little attention
- 41:58Speaker 3: has been given to the forest wealth along the sea shore,
- 42:01Speaker 3: where transportation is easy, Some woods have been marketed, but
- 42:05Speaker 3: in the interior the trees stand as they did a
- 42:08Speaker 3: hundred years ago. In the Metina Valley, the Matina Banana
- 42:12Speaker 3: Company is working an extensive plantation and paying large dividends.
- 42:17Speaker 3: The extent of this industry cannot be appreciated except at
- 42:20Speaker 3: the shipping stations. Hundreds of cars are loaded every day,
- 42:24Speaker 3: and the number of boats loaded with bananas far surpasses
- 42:27Speaker 3: those carrying any other freight. The harvest never ends from
- 42:33Speaker 3: January to December. There is a continuous cutting and marketing.
- 42:37Speaker 3: One sees at the same time the budding blossoms, the
- 42:40Speaker 3: young fruit, and the fully developed bananas. Those who have
- 42:44Speaker 3: seen cotton plants elsewhere, rarely attaining the height of a man,
- 42:48Speaker 3: are ill prepared to see cotton trees growing to a
- 42:50Speaker 3: height of twelve feet with numberless branches which are tipped
- 42:54Speaker 3: by the snowy down. There is nothing that more clearly
- 42:58Speaker 3: proves the fertility of Costa Rican soil. The bread fruit
- 43:02Speaker 3: tree is also a wonder to northern visitors. The tree
- 43:05Speaker 3: is tall and massive, its branches are innumerable, its leaves large,
- 43:10Speaker 3: resembling fig leaves, and the characteristic bread fruit, of a
- 43:14Speaker 3: greenish yellow color, is the size and shape of a cantalope.
- 43:18Speaker 3: The fruit, fried, boiled and baked, very much like potatoes,
- 43:23Speaker 3: forms one of the stable foods of the working people.
- 43:27Speaker 3: The Costa Rica, Nicaraguan and Panama Canals are such important
- 43:31Speaker 3: projects that the nations of the Earth must sooner or
- 43:34Speaker 3: later complete them. Costa Rica occupying almost entirely the territory
- 43:38Speaker 3: between the two proposed canals, will ere long reap the
- 43:42Speaker 3: benefit of such an unparalleled position. The Nicaraguan Canal will
- 43:47Speaker 3: be the final event which shall make Costa Rica the
- 43:50Speaker 3: true gem of American republics. Only a few years ago,
- 43:54Speaker 3: a few shanties mark the present site of Lemon, which
- 43:57Speaker 3: today is one of the most important cities by the
- 44:00Speaker 3: Caribbean breezes, where tropical trees in the distance overshadow the
- 44:05Speaker 3: most elaborate buildings, which are as a rule low. The
- 44:09Speaker 3: regular streets are well kept and the churches neat and
- 44:12Speaker 3: well attended. In Central American cities, great prominence is given
- 44:16Speaker 3: to churches, but at Lemand they are not as elegant
- 44:20Speaker 3: as in more typical cities. Here foreigners are numerous, and
- 44:24Speaker 3: the native population is neither wealthy nor important. But the
- 44:27Speaker 3: places of worship and many of the buildings are of
- 44:30Speaker 3: foreign design and foreign material. Lemont has a distinctive appearance,
- 44:35Speaker 3: not unlike southern settlements in the United States. English is
- 44:39Speaker 3: the prevailing language, and English speaking people conduct most of
- 44:42Speaker 3: the business. Nearly one third of the population of the
- 44:46Speaker 3: country is in the province of San Jose, a broad
- 44:50Speaker 3: expanse containing the main coffee plantations at short distances from
- 44:54Speaker 3: the principal cities where the owners generally live. The wealthiest,
- 44:59Speaker 3: most prosperous, and most conservative of the towns are Heredia
- 45:03Speaker 3: and Alajuela, which are connected with the capital by a railroad.
- 45:08Speaker 3: What we shall say about San Jose applies more or
- 45:10Speaker 3: less to all Costa Rican cities. In this magnificent neighborhood,
- 45:14Speaker 3: the country is studded with fruitful plantations. Here the true
- 45:18Speaker 3: population of Costa Rica dwells, since here are found these hardy,
- 45:22Speaker 3: simple toilers who wrest from the earth its agricultural products,
- 45:26Speaker 3: the true wealth of the soil. An air of ease
- 45:29Speaker 3: combined with antique simplicity characterizes the majority of these villages.
- 45:34Speaker 3: The city of San Jose at once gives the impression
- 45:37Speaker 3: of thrift, not unlike the cities of the United States.
- 45:40Speaker 3: The traveler sees two story houses, wide sidewalks, and electric lights.
- 45:46Speaker 3: In the center of Walkers Park has recently been placed
- 45:48Speaker 3: a handsome monument to commemorate the defeat of the filibuster Walker.
- 45:53Speaker 3: Educational facilities are excellent. There are high schools, a school
- 45:58Speaker 3: of law, several colleges, public libraries, et cetera. It is
- 46:02Speaker 3: safe to say that the number of teachers in Costa
- 46:04Speaker 3: Rica far exceeds the number of soldiers. The well kept hotels,
- 46:08Speaker 3: like most private residences, are built around a beautiful courtyard,
- 46:12Speaker 3: from which every room in the house receives moist cool
- 46:15Speaker 3: air charged with natural perfumes of carefully cultivated flowers. Costa
- 46:21Speaker 3: Ricans mingle, work and play in the most delightful way
- 46:24Speaker 3: in the city's Amusement is often considered more important than business,
- 46:28Speaker 3: and means of recreation are abundant. San Jose has a
- 46:31Speaker 3: modern theater not equalled in Central America. The Roman Catholic
- 46:36Speaker 3: churches in San Jose, Heredia and Alroerra are excellent indications
- 46:41Speaker 3: of the wealth of the country. These churches, and particularly
- 46:45Speaker 3: the Cathedral of San Jose, are of a design and
- 46:48Speaker 3: finish that are rarely surpassed in Spanish America. The people
- 46:52Speaker 3: may at times go barefoot and hungry, but the priests
- 46:55Speaker 3: never lack enthusiastic support. The home of the Costa Rican
- 47:00Speaker 3: is the true pivot of life and the center of
- 47:02Speaker 3: all pleasure. The houses are built around the ever present courtyard,
- 47:06Speaker 3: a garden spot which is carefully cultivated. In it one
- 47:11Speaker 3: finds flowering plants in full bloom throughout the year, and
- 47:15Speaker 3: from it every room of the house has a never
- 47:17Speaker 3: ceasing current of air charged with a delightful odor. Everybody
- 47:22Speaker 3: in Costa Rica who has money in some ambition is
- 47:24Speaker 3: either directly or indirectly interested in farms. The gentlemen farmers
- 47:29Speaker 3: are the rulers of the land. Coffee farming is the
- 47:32Speaker 3: primary industry since Costa Rican coffee has become famous and
- 47:36Speaker 3: commands very high prices. Almost anywhere within a radius of
- 47:40Speaker 3: fifty miles one can find coffee farms, either in their
- 47:44Speaker 3: infancy or in full development, with shade trees to protect
- 47:47Speaker 3: the young plants. Coffee plants in bloom are among the
- 47:51Speaker 3: most beautiful sites in nature. Three years after the planting
- 47:55Speaker 3: of the young coffee bush, it bears its first fruit.
- 47:58Speaker 3: The crop increases until the eighth After that, for fifteen years,
- 48:02Speaker 3: the crops are more or less Even in the first
- 48:05Speaker 3: weeks of December. The berry is of a bright red color,
- 48:08Speaker 3: which indicates that the coffee is fully ripe. Every man,
- 48:12Speaker 3: woman and child is pressed into the service of picking coffee,
- 48:15Speaker 3: and with a basket swung from the waist, picks from
- 48:18Speaker 3: sunrise to sunset. This operation is a delicate one and
- 48:23Speaker 3: is watched very closely to prevent the leaves from being broken.
- 48:26Speaker 3: As the next crop starts from the angle formed by
- 48:29Speaker 3: the leaf and branch. The fresh coffee is transported by
- 48:33Speaker 3: ox carts, passes through a machine that breaks the outer skin,
- 48:37Speaker 3: and is then placed for twenty four hours in water
- 48:40Speaker 3: until the syrup like substance that has adhered to the
- 48:42Speaker 3: grains is washed away. After it has been washed, the
- 48:46Speaker 3: coffee is spread out on a cemented court in smooth beds.
- 48:50Speaker 3: Here it remains during the sunshine, but at night and
- 48:53Speaker 3: during cloudy days it is gathered into heaps and covered
- 48:56Speaker 3: with canvas. The process of spreading and gathering together is
- 49:00Speaker 3: continued until the coffee is thoroughly dry. During this operation,
- 49:04Speaker 3: no planter neglects to place sentinels around the coffee court,
- 49:08Speaker 3: since coffee, even in Costa Rica, is worth forty cents
- 49:11Speaker 3: a pound, and a single individual might carry away several
- 49:14Speaker 3: hundred dollars worth of it in a few hours. When dry,
- 49:18Speaker 3: the coffee is sacked and transported to the factory, where
- 49:21Speaker 3: an elaborate process by modern machinery prepares it for the market.
- 49:25Speaker 3: The final work is the separation of the black, small,
- 49:28Speaker 3: and imperfect berries and classifying them. They are called first, second, third,
- 49:33Speaker 3: and fourth classes, and the well known caercolillo or peaberry.
- 49:38Speaker 3: This is done by a machine having a long center
- 49:41Speaker 3: cylinder with openings of various sizes that correspond with the
- 49:44Speaker 3: different classes of coffee. From this machine, the berries are
- 49:48Speaker 3: transferred to large tables where girls pick out by hand
- 49:51Speaker 3: any impurities not removed by the machines. The coffee is
- 49:55Speaker 3: then sacked and marked, each bag weighing one hundred and
- 49:58Speaker 3: thirty two pounds. Now that the coffee is ready for
- 50:01Speaker 3: export and marked Hamburg, Liverpool, et cetera, a question naturally arises,
- 50:07Speaker 3: is there any marked New York, New Orleans? Or Baltimore.
- 50:11Speaker 3: I have to answer with deep regret that very little
- 50:13Speaker 3: is marked that way, the bulk of the crop being
- 50:15Speaker 3: bought by European firms who send their agents several months
- 50:19Speaker 3: in advance of harvest time, either to buy outright or
- 50:22Speaker 3: to furnish funds with liberal conditions to farmers who agree
- 50:25Speaker 3: to consign their crops. American merchants make very little effort
- 50:29Speaker 3: to secure the products of Costa Rica or to furnish
- 50:31Speaker 3: its markets with the manufactured articles which are produced in
- 50:34Speaker 3: the United States. Time does not permit me to speak
- 50:38Speaker 3: of other agricultural productions. Costa Rica is capable of producing
- 50:42Speaker 3: not only coffee, bananas, cocoa, and sugar cane, but northern
- 50:46Speaker 3: fruits and vegetables. There we find peaches, apples, quinces, strawberries
- 50:52Speaker 3: and grapes, as well as tomatoes, cabbages, potatoes, corn wheat
- 50:56Speaker 3: and other cereals. Costa Rica heretofore has not used enough
- 51:00Speaker 3: meat for home consumption. But this is not because cattle
- 51:03Speaker 3: will not thrive there. It is because few intelligent attempts
- 51:06Speaker 3: have been made. There is abundance of water, a perpetual verdure,
- 51:11Speaker 3: and no winter necessitating feeding the cattle of every kind
- 51:14Speaker 3: and variety thrive beautifully, and that without any attention or care.
- 51:19Speaker 3: Although stock farming is new and people are ill prepared
- 51:21Speaker 3: to raise cattle, yet the results are excellent. Even sheep,
- 51:25Speaker 3: the last animal in the world that one would expect
- 51:27Speaker 3: to do well under a tropical sun, thrive and multiply
- 51:31Speaker 3: with remarkable success. Not far from these farms are several
- 51:35Speaker 3: peculiar natural springs. The most popular and interesting thermal springs
- 51:39Speaker 3: today are those of Agua Caliente, which are frequented by
- 51:43Speaker 3: the wealthy citizens of Costa Rica and by foreign visitors.
- 51:47Speaker 3: These springs, like most natural waters, are said to be
- 51:50Speaker 3: good for nearly all human ailments, but it is certain
- 51:53Speaker 3: that they cure rheumatism and skin diseases. One finds among
- 51:57Speaker 3: them waters hot enough to boil an egg and of
- 51:59Speaker 3: a strong sulfurous odour, while on the other hand, there
- 52:02Speaker 3: are others extremely cold. One of the unique primitive structures
- 52:08Speaker 3: of the country, which portrays the characteristic ingenuity of early settlers,
- 52:12Speaker 3: is the bridge made of bioco, a native vine like
- 52:16Speaker 3: growth noted for its great strength to be noticed hanging
- 52:19Speaker 3: from large trees. This strange substance is made into a
- 52:23Speaker 3: rope which is hung from convenient trees near the banks
- 52:26Speaker 3: of the river. The peculiar sensation experienced while crossing is
- 52:30Speaker 3: far from a feeling of safety. With every step, the
- 52:33Speaker 3: dry woody ropes crack, and the bridge moves not only
- 52:37Speaker 3: up and down, but sideways, forward and backward. Entering the
- 52:41Speaker 3: Indian reservation of Talamanca, fine views greet the eye of
- 52:45Speaker 3: the traveler. Here are the farmhouses of half breeds. There
- 52:49Speaker 3: colossal coconut trees with large leaves of which the roofs
- 52:53Speaker 3: and sides of huts are made. The true Indian house
- 52:56Speaker 3: is built on the beehive plan, and its framework of
- 53:00Speaker 3: vine rope is thatched by palm and coconut leaves. Its
- 53:04Speaker 3: external appearance is artistic, and the people are comfortable within.
- 53:08Speaker 3: The Indians are completely isolated from civilization, are peaceful and
- 53:12Speaker 3: never give the government trouble. The men are usually well built,
- 53:16Speaker 3: and the women are patient and gentle. They are very
- 53:18Speaker 3: thinly clad, as the climate is such that clothing is
- 53:22Speaker 3: the least of their wants and is worn only with
- 53:24Speaker 3: an idea of adornment. Most clothing is of the local cotton,
- 53:29Speaker 3: colored by home dye roots, and certain kinds of shells.
- 53:33Speaker 3: Their beds are placed on platforms well up under the roof.
- 53:36Speaker 3: The floor is the naked earth. Hammocks are strung about,
- 53:40Speaker 3: always occupied, for Costa Rican Indians are not fond of work.
- 53:44Speaker 3: The most interesting character in Talamanca is Antonio Sandano, the
- 53:49Speaker 3: king to whom the government accords the absolute sovereignty of
- 53:52Speaker 3: the Talamanca Indians. The rainfall of Costa Rica is somewhat
- 53:56Speaker 3: greater than that of the United States. There is a
- 53:59Speaker 3: dry season and a wet season every year, but the
- 54:02Speaker 3: rains are never constant, nor are they ever entirely absent. Indeed,
- 54:07Speaker 3: the atmospheric moisture is reliable, and droughts never affect plants.
- 54:13Speaker 3: It is well to become acquainted with a fact that
- 54:15Speaker 3: seems rather curious in reference to rain. It is the
- 54:18Speaker 3: one that attracts the attention of foreigners, who, in visiting
- 54:21Speaker 3: Central America expect to see rain pouring down constantly. The
- 54:25Speaker 3: rain begins at about two o'clock in the afternoon, continuing
- 54:28Speaker 3: from a half hour to three hours. But what rain.
- 54:31Speaker 3: It seems as though the dikes of the Heavenly Reservoirs
- 54:34Speaker 3: have been torn asunder. Another peculiarity still when it rains
- 54:38Speaker 3: on the eastern slope, it is clear on the western,
- 54:41Speaker 3: and vice versa. To visit the successful mining camps in
- 54:46Speaker 3: Costa Rica, one has to ride over rough roads, crossing
- 54:49Speaker 3: bridgeless rivers, and traversing thick forests where mahogany, cedar, rubber,
- 54:54Speaker 3: and other tropical trees cover the earth and screen the skies.
- 54:59Speaker 3: The journey is long and at times tiresome, but to
- 55:02Speaker 3: see gold at the end of the journey, mingling with
- 55:05Speaker 3: the best of Mother Earth, more than repays for the
- 55:08Speaker 3: discomfort of travel. Here is a rain of incomparable mineral richness.
- 55:13Speaker 3: But up to the present the mines have been worked
- 55:15Speaker 3: in the most primitive way, necessitating great labor and expense.
- 55:19Speaker 3: With the importation of new labor saving machines and improved
- 55:22Speaker 3: mining methods, there's no doubt that we shall soon see
- 55:25Speaker 3: golden streams flowing from the depths of Costa Rica. Throughout
- 55:29Speaker 3: the Republic, transportation is largely conducted by caravans with ox
- 55:33Speaker 3: teams as the motive power. These carts are heavy, primitive
- 55:38Speaker 3: vehicles made by the peasants, the wheels being solid circular
- 55:41Speaker 3: discs cut from the stems of large oak trees. The
- 55:45Speaker 3: oxen are always objects of regard, as their drivers and
- 55:48Speaker 3: owners have an almost supernatural love for them and often
- 55:51Speaker 3: prize them more than they do their own wives. The
- 55:55Speaker 3: railroad from San Jose to the Pacific coast is partially
- 55:58Speaker 3: completed and passes through a fertile, agricultural country in several towns,
- 56:02Speaker 3: among them Ala Rouela, with its extensive market. At al Huela,
- 56:07Speaker 3: we leave behind us the train and reach Esparta, twelve
- 56:11Speaker 3: miles away from Punterinas by mules. From Esparta, one of
- 56:15Speaker 3: the oldest towns in Costa Rica, we again take the
- 56:18Speaker 3: train to Pontarinas. This is the principal seaport of the
- 56:23Speaker 3: Pacific and is connected by steamer with San Francisco. It
- 56:27Speaker 3: must be plain that Costa Rica offers industrious immigrants exceptional advantages.
- 56:32Speaker 3: Men who can begin life on a plantation or in
- 56:35Speaker 3: one of the many industries with a few hundred dollars,
- 56:38Speaker 3: can in a few years accumulate a reasonable property, secure
- 56:41Speaker 3: a permanent home in a regions or passed nowhere in
- 56:43Speaker 3: the world for healthfulness, and lay the foundation for an
- 56:46Speaker 3: estate which is certain to increase rapidly in value. Costa
- 56:50Speaker 3: Rica is indeed a land of promise to all interested
- 56:53Speaker 3: in securing for themselves a future prosperity. It is a
- 56:57Speaker 3: land upon which greater nations will air be casting their
- 57:01Speaker 3: ambitious eyes.
- 57:04Speaker 4: End of section three, Section four of the National Geographic Magazine,
- 57:13Speaker 4: Volume eighth, May eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording.
- 57:18Speaker 4: All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more
- 57:22Speaker 4: information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Applied
- 57:27Speaker 4: Physiography in South Carolina by L. C. Glen. An interesting
- 57:32Speaker 4: physiographic change is now going on in much of the
- 57:35Speaker 4: Piedmont section of South Carolina and other cotton growing states,
- 57:39Speaker 4: the consequences of which are becoming grave to the owners
- 57:42Speaker 4: of the soil, and are threatening soon to result, hunless
- 57:45Speaker 4: checked by a proper observance of physiographic laws, in the
- 57:48Speaker 4: destruction of much of the most fertile land of the region,
- 57:51Speaker 4: a destruction already wrought in many cases. The change referred
- 57:55Speaker 4: to is the exceedingly rapid aggradation by the streams as
- 57:59Speaker 4: a result of a system of farming that has recently
- 58:01Speaker 4: come into vogue in that region. This Piedmont section is
- 58:05Speaker 4: an old peneplain that has been uplifted and is now
- 58:08Speaker 4: well dissected by the many streams that have cut their
- 58:10Speaker 4: way down into the plateau from fifty to one hundred
- 58:13Speaker 4: and fifty or more feet below the general level. In
- 58:16Speaker 4: some places rapids and falls still occur, but for the
- 58:19Speaker 4: most part the streams are at grade and rapid down
- 58:22Speaker 4: cutting has ceased, while lateral swinging has widened the valleys
- 58:25Speaker 4: and bordered the banks with large tracts of rich alluvial
- 58:28Speaker 4: bottom land. On these bottoms, chiefly, the corn of the
- 58:32Speaker 4: country has heretofore been raised, while the hillsides and inter
- 58:35Speaker 4: stream upland are devoted to the culture of cotton. Before
- 58:39Speaker 4: the first settlement of the country, the forest clad slopes
- 58:42Speaker 4: furnished waste to the streams very slowly, and they were
- 58:45Speaker 4: able to erode for themselves deep channels and keep their
- 58:48Speaker 4: valley floors well drained. Although the country has been settled
- 58:52Speaker 4: over a hundred years, the system of farming common before
- 58:55Speaker 4: the war did not so materially increase the amount of
- 58:58Speaker 4: waste furnished to the streams from the hill slopes as
- 59:00Speaker 4: to overload them and endanger the fertility of the bottoms.
- 59:04Speaker 4: When a field became too poor for profitable cultivation. It
- 59:08Speaker 4: was turned out to grow up in old field sedge,
- 59:10Speaker 4: and fresh land was cleared. In this way, either much
- 59:13Speaker 4: of each stream basin was in original forest or vegetation
- 59:17Speaker 4: covered old fields, both of which fed the rainfall to
- 59:20Speaker 4: the streams slowly and furnished only a moderate amount of waste.
- 59:24Speaker 4: Since the war, the use of commercial fertilizers has become
- 59:27Speaker 4: general in this region. By their application, these worn out
- 59:30Speaker 4: old fields have again become capable of producing paining crops
- 59:35Speaker 4: and have been plowed and planted in cotton. The successful
- 59:38Speaker 4: growing of this crop requires such clean culture that, in
- 59:41Speaker 4: the almost total neglect of crop rotation, the soil is
- 59:45Speaker 4: soon deprived of nearly all its vegetable matter, while the
- 59:47Speaker 4: cotton plant furnishes far too few root fibers to hold
- 59:51Speaker 4: the soil together and prevent it from washing down into
- 59:53Speaker 4: the valleys. When to this is added the fact that
- 59:57Speaker 4: terrace plowing is almost unknown, it is readily seen that
- 1:00:00Speaker 4: the rain falling on these slopes rapidly gathers into hillside
- 1:00:03Speaker 4: gullies and quickly finds its way down to the effluent stream,
- 1:00:07Speaker 4: carrying with it an immense amount of detritus. The stream
- 1:00:11Speaker 4: is now overloaded and does the only thing possible under
- 1:00:14Speaker 4: the circumstances. It drops the portion of its load that
- 1:00:17Speaker 4: it is unable to carry. Thus, the channel that of
- 1:00:20Speaker 4: old was often five to ten feet deep, is soon
- 1:00:23Speaker 4: filled until it is scarcely more than twice on many
- 1:00:25Speaker 4: inches in depth. With every rain, the stream now overflows
- 1:00:29Speaker 4: its banks, covers the rich floodplain soil with barren sand,
- 1:00:33Speaker 4: and spreads desolation over almost its entire area. In the
- 1:00:37Speaker 4: case of small streams, the waste has been showered down
- 1:00:39Speaker 4: from the valley sides during heavy rains in such quantities
- 1:00:42Speaker 4: as in many instances, to completely fill the stream's channel
- 1:00:46Speaker 4: and leave it to wander as an outcast, hither and
- 1:00:48Speaker 4: thither over the surface which it formerly drained and rendered fertile,
- 1:00:52Speaker 4: but on which now it aids in producing marshes and malaria,
- 1:00:56Speaker 4: in just retribution, as it were, for its owner's neglect
- 1:00:59Speaker 4: of HSIIT geographic laws. It might be well to note
- 1:01:02Speaker 4: more fully the regular cycle of change through which the
- 1:01:05Speaker 4: flood plane passes before assuming the completely wasted state. As
- 1:01:09Speaker 4: the stream bed begins agrading, overflows become easier and hence
- 1:01:13Speaker 4: more frequent. The mouths of the artificial drainage. Ditches leading
- 1:01:17Speaker 4: from the flood plain into the stream channel soon silt up,
- 1:01:20Speaker 4: the drainage becomes poor, and as a consequence, the land
- 1:01:24Speaker 4: is longer after overflows in becoming sufficiently dry for cultivation.
- 1:01:29Speaker 4: As the aggravation gradually raises the stream surface. Nearer the
- 1:01:32Speaker 4: surface of the flood plain see seed prime seed double prime,
- 1:01:37Speaker 4: the water level in the land on either side of
- 1:01:39Speaker 4: the stream rises pari passu nearer the land's surface b
- 1:01:43Speaker 4: b prime be double prime, and thus constantly decreases the
- 1:01:47Speaker 4: distance through which capillary attraction must act in raising water
- 1:01:51Speaker 4: to the plant roots, and hence makes the land wetter
- 1:01:53Speaker 4: and wetter, until finally the culture of corn must be abandoned,
- 1:01:57Speaker 4: though now too wet for cultivation, and may yet for
- 1:02:00Speaker 4: a short time furnish a rather poor meadow. Since comparatively
- 1:02:04Speaker 4: little of the rich alluvial surface has yet been covered
- 1:02:07Speaker 4: by the sand, most of which has been disposed of
- 1:02:10Speaker 4: in filling the stream channel, it is as though the
- 1:02:12Speaker 4: stream realized its inability to directly attack the surface at first,
- 1:02:16Speaker 4: and so turned its attention to preparations for a more
- 1:02:19Speaker 4: effective attack a little later. By filling its channel with
- 1:02:22Speaker 4: sand and thus placing itself in a position to rapidly
- 1:02:25Speaker 4: complete the work of destruction when it has once actively begun.
- 1:02:29Speaker 4: When it has built up its bed almost even with
- 1:02:31Speaker 4: the floodplain's surface level, this work of preparation ends, and
- 1:02:35Speaker 4: the work of direct destruction begins. Every overflow now cuts
- 1:02:40Speaker 4: channels that lead away from the main stream and spread
- 1:02:43Speaker 4: sand far and wide over the plain, burying the fertile soil.
- 1:02:47Speaker 4: As the depth of the sand increases, the floodplain becomes
- 1:02:50Speaker 4: more barren, until it is finally a waste of sand,
- 1:02:53Speaker 4: thinly overgrown with nettles and other sand loving plants, While
- 1:02:57Speaker 4: willows fringe the branching channels of the wandering stream, And
- 1:03:00Speaker 4: here and there along the margins of the wasted plain,
- 1:03:02Speaker 4: and in other chance low places, water collects and forms
- 1:03:06Speaker 4: marshes that are soon overgrown with reeds and brushes. The
- 1:03:09Speaker 4: cycle of destruction is now complete. Thus, in some sections
- 1:03:13Speaker 4: much of the formerly fertile bottom land has already been
- 1:03:16Speaker 4: abandoned as worthless. Much more can scarcely be cultivated profitably,
- 1:03:21Speaker 4: while but little is so favorably situated as to escape
- 1:03:24Speaker 4: entirely the ruinous effect of the continual clean cultivation of
- 1:03:28Speaker 4: the hill slopes. The remedy for this destruction is so
- 1:03:31Speaker 4: simple and self evident to the student as hardly to
- 1:03:34Speaker 4: require statement. The cotton crop must be rotated with some
- 1:03:38Speaker 4: crop that will furnish an abundance of rude fibers to
- 1:03:41Speaker 4: hold the soil together and prevent it from washing, and
- 1:03:44Speaker 4: the hill slopes must be terrace plowed. If this is done,
- 1:03:47Speaker 4: the degradation of the hill fields and the aggradation on
- 1:03:50Speaker 4: the bottom fields will be checked. If this is not done,
- 1:03:53Speaker 4: all the most fertile land will soon become but barren wastes.
- 1:03:57Speaker 4: Mention may be made of a lake of aggradation of
- 1:04:00Speaker 4: the Red River Louisiana family to be found in the
- 1:04:03Speaker 4: northwestern part of Fairfield County, South Carolina, since it is
- 1:04:07Speaker 4: due to the same general cause. From a broad open
- 1:04:10Speaker 4: valley there runs back into the upland a broadside valley
- 1:04:14Speaker 4: that contained a weak stream draining but a small area.
- 1:04:17Speaker 4: When the master stream began a grading, it set a
- 1:04:19Speaker 4: pace with which the side stream could not keep up.
- 1:04:22Speaker 4: Its mouth was sealed up, and it was forced to
- 1:04:25Speaker 4: lake itself before gaining an exit, thus covering to a
- 1:04:28Speaker 4: depth of eight or ten feet a considerable area that
- 1:04:31Speaker 4: before the war had been planted in corn and of
- 1:04:35Speaker 4: section four, Section five of the National Geographic Magazine, volume
- 1:04:45Speaker 4: eighth May eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording.
- 1:04:50Speaker 4: All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more
- 1:04:53Speaker 4: information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Shaikh said,
- 1:05:00Speaker 4: by Ernest de Sasseville, the Souciette the geography of this
- 1:05:05Speaker 4: city has just published a fine map of Africa. On
- 1:05:08Speaker 4: looking over it, I noticed that, Shaikh said, on the
- 1:05:11Speaker 4: south coast of Arabia was given as French territory. This
- 1:05:14Speaker 4: surprised me, as Philip's map of the Nile Valley gives
- 1:05:17Speaker 4: it as an English possession, making Aiden the center of
- 1:05:20Speaker 4: a large territory extending to and including. Sheikh said, on
- 1:05:25Speaker 4: consulting a German map, I found it given neither as
- 1:05:28Speaker 4: English nor French, but as part of the province of
- 1:05:30Speaker 4: the Yemen and therefore Turkish. I then called on Monsieur Goothio,
- 1:05:35Speaker 4: general secretary of the Commercial Geographic Society, who informed me
- 1:05:39Speaker 4: that it was positively French territory, although wrongfully occupied by
- 1:05:43Speaker 4: a Turkish garrison. Monsieur Gosthio, having suggested certain authentic sources
- 1:05:48Speaker 4: of information. I proceeded to make further investigations, and in
- 1:05:51Speaker 4: view of the growing interest in Eastern affairs, I ventured
- 1:05:54Speaker 4: to submit the result to the readers of the National
- 1:05:56Speaker 4: Geographic Magazine. The territory of Babel Mandeb was well known
- 1:06:00Speaker 4: in antiquity. On its southern side was the important port
- 1:06:04Speaker 4: of Ocolis. The fall of the Roman power in Egypt
- 1:06:07Speaker 4: and the Red Sea brought also that of Ocolis, whose
- 1:06:10Speaker 4: rooms are still visible, and trade with India went by
- 1:06:13Speaker 4: way of the Persian Gulf. When under the Sultan Selim
- 1:06:17Speaker 4: the First the Red Sea regained its importance, it was
- 1:06:20Speaker 4: Aiden that was selected as the chief port. Since the
- 1:06:23Speaker 4: downfall of the Caliphate, the territory of Babel Mandeb has
- 1:06:27Speaker 4: been left to govern itself. It is inhabited by the
- 1:06:30Speaker 4: tribe of the acem Ed Dourin, who have always held
- 1:06:33Speaker 4: their independence against the Turks. This independence was indirectly recognized
- 1:06:37Speaker 4: both by Turkey and by England. It was of the
- 1:06:40Speaker 4: Shaik of the acem Ed Dourain that the Governor of
- 1:06:43Speaker 4: Eden asked permission to dig wells on the territory of
- 1:06:46Speaker 4: Babel Mandeb to obtain water for the garrison of Perim,
- 1:06:49Speaker 4: a Turkish vessel having been wrecked on the Arabian coast
- 1:06:52Speaker 4: south of Moka. It was to this same shake that
- 1:06:55Speaker 4: her owner applied for help. In eighteen sixty three, an
- 1:06:58Speaker 4: English vessel was wrecked on the coast of Babel Mandeb
- 1:07:01Speaker 4: and looted by the natives. The English governor of Aiden
- 1:07:04Speaker 4: applied to the Kaimakam of Moca her redress, but the
- 1:07:08Speaker 4: Kaimakam said he could do nothing as the Turkish authority
- 1:07:11Speaker 4: did not extend south of Moca. In October eighteen sixty eight,
- 1:07:15Speaker 4: the firm of Raban dan Basin of Marseilles entered into
- 1:07:19Speaker 4: negotiations with the Sheik of the acem Ed Durin Ali
- 1:07:22Speaker 4: Tabat and purchased from him a part of the territory
- 1:07:25Speaker 4: of Babel Mandeb, including the Bay of Sheikh said at
- 1:07:28Speaker 4: about four hundred thousand acres of land adjoining Naturally, England
- 1:07:32Speaker 4: did not like to see France take possession of so
- 1:07:34Speaker 4: important a strategic point, but not wishing to openly oppose France,
- 1:07:38Speaker 4: she is said to have stirred up Turkey to claim
- 1:07:41Speaker 4: it as included in her dominion. Accordingly, a small Turkish
- 1:07:45Speaker 4: garrison landed in Turks Bay to take possession of Sheikh Said,
- 1:07:48Speaker 4: but warned by the French consul at Aden. The French
- 1:07:50Speaker 4: ship brewer was immediately despatched to protect the small colony
- 1:07:54Speaker 4: of Sheikh Said. Early in eighteen seventy, the firm of
- 1:07:57Speaker 4: Raban dan Basen erected a two story bill Seldingham began
- 1:08:00Speaker 4: to lay in coal supplies. A few weeks later, the
- 1:08:03Speaker 4: Franco Prussian War broke out and England, having declared her neutrality,
- 1:08:08Speaker 4: refused to allow French ships to call at Aden. The
- 1:08:11Speaker 4: French government then officially took possession of Shakesaid by making
- 1:08:15Speaker 4: it a coaling station and a refuge for French warships.
- 1:08:19Speaker 4: After the Treaty of Frankfurt, Shaksaid was abandoned. Raband and
- 1:08:23Speaker 4: Basin continued to occupy it for some time, but finally
- 1:08:26Speaker 4: withdrew after launching a declaration as to their rights and
- 1:08:29Speaker 4: ownership with the Turkish authorities. In eighteen eighty four, the
- 1:08:33Speaker 4: French press again took up the subject and the government
- 1:08:36Speaker 4: sent out some surveyors and engineers, who found the place
- 1:08:39Speaker 4: occupied by a Turkish garrison. In eighteen eighty five, the
- 1:08:42Speaker 4: Turkish government officially announced its occupation by a notice published
- 1:08:46Speaker 4: in a newspaper of Sana, the capital of Yemen. It
- 1:08:49Speaker 4: is very evident that the occupation, I mean a thorough
- 1:08:52Speaker 4: military occupation of Shaksaid would be of the highest importance
- 1:08:55Speaker 4: to France in view of the enormous development of her
- 1:08:58Speaker 4: colonial empire, and especial of England's continued occupation of Egypt.
- 1:09:03Speaker 4: The way to the Indian Ocean and the Far East
- 1:09:05Speaker 4: has become almost as important to France as it is
- 1:09:07Speaker 4: to England, and it is hardly fair that one nation
- 1:09:10Speaker 4: should possess all the keys to the gates of the
- 1:09:12Speaker 4: famous waterway to the exclusion of all other nations. France's
- 1:09:16Speaker 4: present occupation of the territory of Hoboc on the west
- 1:09:19Speaker 4: side of the Straits of Babel Mandeb with the port
- 1:09:22Speaker 4: of Djibouti is very good as a commercial position, but
- 1:09:25Speaker 4: as a strategic point it can only acquire importance by
- 1:09:28Speaker 4: the addition of Shaksaied on the east side. This incident
- 1:09:32Speaker 4: of Shaksaied furnishes an example of inaccurate map making by
- 1:09:36Speaker 4: men who are apparently more zealous and patriotic than learned
- 1:09:39Speaker 4: and accurate. Whatever may be said of the claims of
- 1:09:42Speaker 4: France to the territory in question. It does not appear
- 1:09:44Speaker 4: that England has ever had the shadow of a claim
- 1:09:47Speaker 4: to it, and mister Philip ought to know that the
- 1:09:49Speaker 4: use of a brush and some color to make a
- 1:09:51Speaker 4: territory appear to be either English, French or Turkish according
- 1:09:55Speaker 4: to one's patriotic ambitions does not make it so. Geographer's
- 1:09:59Speaker 4: odds to stick to official facts and not mislead by
- 1:10:03Speaker 4: marking on the maps on official and inaccurate boundaries. Ernest Disassoville, Paris,
- 1:10:09Speaker 4: April twelfth, eighteen ninety seven.
- 1:10:18Speaker 2: Section six of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight May
- 1:10:23Speaker 2: eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
- 1:10:28Speaker 2: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
- 1:10:31Speaker 2: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B.
- 1:10:38Speaker 2: Geographic Literature Bulletin of the Department of Labor, number nine,
- 1:10:43Speaker 2: edited by Carol D. Wright, Commissioner or In W. Weaver,
- 1:10:47Speaker 2: Chief Clerk, Pages one hundred nine to two hundred thirty six.
- 1:10:51Speaker 2: Rand mcnallyan Companies road Maps and Cycling Guide to Westchester County,
- 1:10:56Speaker 2: New York, Chicago and New York Ran mcnallyan cum Company.
- 1:11:00Speaker 2: Fifty cents Magnetic Declination in the United States, by Henry Gannett,
- 1:11:06Speaker 2: from the seventeenth Annual Report of the US Geological Survey, Washington,
- 1:11:11Speaker 2: eighteen ninety six, pages two hundred three to four hundred
- 1:11:15Speaker 2: forty with map and diagrams. Statistical Abstract of the United
- 1:11:20Speaker 2: States eighteen ninety six. Nineteenth Number, prepared by the Bureau
- 1:11:25Speaker 2: of Statistics under the direction of the Secretary of the Treasury,
- 1:11:29Speaker 2: pages Roman numeral twelve plus four hundred Washington, eighteen ninety seven.
- 1:11:35Speaker 2: The Foreign Commerce and Navigation of the United States for
- 1:11:39Speaker 2: the year ending June thirtieth, eighteen ninety six, prepared in
- 1:11:43Speaker 2: the Bureau of Statistics, U S. Treasury Department, Worthington, c. Ford,
- 1:11:48Speaker 2: Chief of Bureau, Volume one, pages one through Roman numeral
- 1:11:54Speaker 2: one hundred forty seven plus one through seven hundred sixty.
- 1:11:59Speaker 2: Volume five two, pages seven hundred sixty one through fourteen
- 1:12:03Speaker 2: hundred thirty two. It is rarely that the bi monthly
- 1:12:07Speaker 2: bulletin of the Department of Labor fails to present some
- 1:12:10Speaker 2: useful contribution to the literature of economic geography. Two articles
- 1:12:16Speaker 2: in the March number are worthy of note. In this connection,
- 1:12:19Speaker 2: the Padrone System and the Padrone Banks by John Corn
- 1:12:24Speaker 2: and the Dutch Society for General Welfare by Professor J.
- 1:12:28Speaker 2: Howard Gore, pH d. Of the Columbian University. Nothing could
- 1:12:33Speaker 2: better illustrate the extraordinary popularity of cycling than the publication
- 1:12:38Speaker 2: for the express use of Wheelman of the Attractive Handbook
- 1:12:42Speaker 2: and large Scale road Maps of Westchester County, New York,
- 1:12:46Speaker 2: recently issued by Rand McNally and Company. While the easy
- 1:12:50Speaker 2: accessibility to an immense population of the interesting and delightful
- 1:12:54Speaker 2: region described will no doubt fully justify the publishers in
- 1:12:59Speaker 2: their venture, the publication is none the less a notable
- 1:13:02Speaker 2: one and worthy of high commendation. Henry Garnett, whose versatility
- 1:13:07Speaker 2: of mind as a geographer, statistician, and diligent investigator in
- 1:13:12Speaker 2: many other lines of scientific inquiry is continually enriching our
- 1:13:17Speaker 2: technical literature, has compiled for the Annual Report of the
- 1:13:21Speaker 2: Geological Survey, an elaborate series of tables and diagrams relative
- 1:13:26Speaker 2: to the variations of the compass. While the chief aim
- 1:13:30Speaker 2: of the author has been to show the approximate declination
- 1:13:34Speaker 2: for the year nineteen hundred at twenty two thousand different
- 1:13:37Speaker 2: points in the United States. He gives us an interesting
- 1:13:41Speaker 2: historical review of the secular variation, and briefly notices the
- 1:13:45Speaker 2: various other changes to which the magnetic declination is subject.
- 1:13:51Speaker 2: The high standard of excellence that has characterized the publications
- 1:13:55Speaker 2: of the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department under
- 1:13:59Speaker 2: mister Worthington's ford is fully maintained in the Report on
- 1:14:03Speaker 2: the Foreign Commerce and Navigation of the United States for
- 1:14:07Speaker 2: the fiscal year eighteen ninety five to ninety six, and
- 1:14:11Speaker 2: in the new number of the Statistical Abstract. The latter
- 1:14:15Speaker 2: is more comprehensive and correspondingly more valuable than ever before.
- 1:14:20Speaker 2: In a country whose official statistical publications are as voluminous
- 1:14:24Speaker 2: as those of the United States, such an abstract is indispensable,
- 1:14:29Speaker 2: and the provision made by Congress for its publication should
- 1:14:33Speaker 2: be such as to admit of a careful analysis of
- 1:14:36Speaker 2: such statistical data as may, from time to time become available,
- 1:14:41Speaker 2: and of an absolutely accurate presentation of them in a
- 1:14:45Speaker 2: summarized form. J. H. End of Section six, Section seven
- 1:14:58Speaker 2: of the National Geograph Magazine, Volume eight, May eighteen ninety seven.
- 1:15:04Speaker 2: This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in
- 1:15:08Speaker 2: the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please
- 1:15:12Speaker 2: visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B. Geographic Serials.
- 1:15:19Speaker 2: The Journal of the Royal Colonial Institute for April contains
- 1:15:24Speaker 2: a valuable paper on the dairy industry in the Colonies
- 1:15:28Speaker 2: by mister Samuel Lowe. The Scottish Geographical Magazine for April
- 1:15:33Speaker 2: contains an excellent physical and political description of Ceylon by
- 1:15:37Speaker 2: mister L. B. Clarence and an historical article treating of
- 1:15:43Speaker 2: the British in South America by Colonel Howard Vincent. The
- 1:15:47Speaker 2: Geographical Journal for April contains several articles of interest, including
- 1:15:53Speaker 2: the first crossing of Spitzbergen by Sir W. Martin Conway,
- 1:15:58Speaker 2: two years travel in Yugahunda an Joro and on the
- 1:16:02Speaker 2: Upper Nile by Lieutenant C. F. S. Vandeleur, the Southern
- 1:16:07Speaker 2: border lands of Afghanistan by Captain A. H. McMahon, the
- 1:16:12Speaker 2: Perso Balloch Boundary by Colonel Holditch, and the River Oder.
- 1:16:17Speaker 2: The last article of the volume is by Professor A. W.
- 1:16:21Speaker 2: Andrews on the teaching of geography in relation to history.
- 1:16:26Speaker 2: This article has a special interest to members of the
- 1:16:29Speaker 2: National Geographic Society, inasmuch as is in line with the
- 1:16:34Speaker 2: course of afternoon lectures recently completed. The Journal of the
- 1:16:38Speaker 2: Manchester Geographical Society January through March opens with an article
- 1:16:44Speaker 2: entitled the Mendi Country and some of the Customs and
- 1:16:48Speaker 2: Characteristics of its people, by Reverend William Vivian. This is
- 1:16:53Speaker 2: a little known region between Sierra Leone and Liberia. Sir W.
- 1:16:58Speaker 2: Maxwell contributes an article on the results of the Ashanti
- 1:17:02Speaker 2: expedition in eighteen ninety five ninety six, which is supplemented
- 1:17:06Speaker 2: by a description of the Niger River and territories by
- 1:17:10Speaker 2: Major Hampton Jackson. The work of the House Association is
- 1:17:15Speaker 2: summarized by Reverend W. Robinson in a paper read at
- 1:17:19Speaker 2: the Liverpool meeting of the British Association and published here.
- 1:17:24Speaker 2: The botany and zoology of Uganda and other parts of
- 1:17:28Speaker 2: Equatorial Africa are the subject of papers by Reverend F. C. Smith,
- 1:17:33Speaker 2: and the number concludes with an excellent article on Queensland
- 1:17:37Speaker 2: by General Sir Henry W. Normand. The Transactions of the
- 1:17:41Speaker 2: Liverpool Geographical Society for the year eighteen ninety six include
- 1:17:47Speaker 2: several interesting and valuable papers. The first entitled Railways in
- 1:17:52Speaker 2: Africa by Major Darwin describes not only the existing lines
- 1:17:56Speaker 2: of railway, but the lines of water communication and the
- 1:18:00Speaker 2: railway routes needed in the future. Miss M. H. Kingsley
- 1:18:04Speaker 2: writes on the ascent of Cameroon's Peak and travels in
- 1:18:09Speaker 2: French Congo, the Narrative of an Interesting Journey. Mister gray
- 1:18:14Speaker 2: Hill writes the narrative of a Journey to Petra, and
- 1:18:18Speaker 2: mister W. A. L. Fletcher of a Journey toward Lassa.
- 1:18:22Speaker 2: Mister J. C Ernest Parkes gives a short description of
- 1:18:27Speaker 2: the man eating people of the Imperi, and mister James
- 1:18:30Speaker 2: Irvine furnishes a description of the Kingdom of Benin, written
- 1:18:35Speaker 2: about the year sixteen thirty and abridged from the folio
- 1:18:39Speaker 2: edition of John Ogilby published in sixteen seventy. The volume
- 1:18:44Speaker 2: closes with the summary of the scientific results of doctor
- 1:18:48Speaker 2: Nansen's North Polar Expedition by Professor Mohn. The April Bulletin
- 1:18:54Speaker 2: of the American Geographical Society is an exceptionally interesting numbers.
- 1:19:00Speaker 2: Mister Cosmos Mendelef writes on the influence of geographic environment,
- 1:19:05Speaker 2: discussing its application to the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico
- 1:19:09Speaker 2: and Arizona. Doctor George M. Dawson summarizes in two and
- 1:19:14Speaker 2: one half pages the geographical work in Canada in the
- 1:19:18Speaker 2: year eighteen ninety six. Professor R. S. Tarr continues his
- 1:19:23Speaker 2: series of papers on the physical geography of New York State.
- 1:19:28Speaker 2: Mister James Douglas furnishes an historical article entitled the Consolidation
- 1:19:33Speaker 2: of the Iroquois Confederacy, and mister Francis C. Nicholas contributes
- 1:19:38Speaker 2: a paper upon the economic importance of geological and physical
- 1:19:43Speaker 2: conditions in Tropical America. The Washington Letter of mister F. H.
- 1:19:48Speaker 2: Newell contains an admirable summary of the situation regarding forest reserves.
- 1:19:54Speaker 2: The record of geographical progress is exceptionally full, and this
- 1:19:59Speaker 2: with map and book notices closes the number. Among the
- 1:20:04Speaker 2: recent publications in the JOHNS. Hopkins University Studies is one
- 1:20:08Speaker 2: entitled The Street Railway System of Philadelphia, Its History and
- 1:20:13Speaker 2: Present Condition, by doctor Frederick W. S. Spears. The street
- 1:20:18Speaker 2: railway system in that city commenced in eighteen fifty eight
- 1:20:22Speaker 2: when the first line was opened. The history of the
- 1:20:25Speaker 2: development of the system was probably very similar to that
- 1:20:29Speaker 2: of other American cities. Extensions being sought by railway companies
- 1:20:34Speaker 2: and promoters, and strenuously opposed by the majority of the
- 1:20:38Speaker 2: people living upon the threatened streets. In eighteen seventy six,
- 1:20:43Speaker 2: the system had grown until it comprised two hundred eighty
- 1:20:46Speaker 2: nine miles, operated by seventeen separate companies, which were associated
- 1:20:51Speaker 2: in a pool under the control of a board of
- 1:20:54Speaker 2: railway presidents. In eighteen eighty the current began to set
- 1:20:58Speaker 2: strongly toward Monopo, and the movement went on until in
- 1:21:02Speaker 2: eighteen ninety five all the mileage of the city, amounting
- 1:21:06Speaker 2: to four hundred thirty miles, was in the hands of
- 1:21:09Speaker 2: four companies, and in eighteen ninety six the Union Traction Company,
- 1:21:14Speaker 2: a new company formed for the purpose, obtained control of
- 1:21:18Speaker 2: all the lines of Philadelphia, with the exception of one
- 1:21:21Speaker 2: short line twenty four miles in length, the Hestonville, Mantua
- 1:21:26Speaker 2: and Fairmount Road. Besides giving a history of the lines,
- 1:21:30Speaker 2: the paper treats in extenso of the financial aspect of
- 1:21:34Speaker 2: the system, the price of franchise privileges, the principal item
- 1:21:39Speaker 2: of which is the paving of the streets, estimated by
- 1:21:42Speaker 2: the Bureau of Highways at nine million dollars. It contains
- 1:21:46Speaker 2: a chapter on the public control of the railway system
- 1:21:50Speaker 2: and upon municipal ownership and corporate influence in the city government.
- 1:21:55Speaker 2: The relations of the railways to their employees is treated
- 1:21:59Speaker 2: in a separate chapter HG end of Section seven, Section
- 1:22:12Speaker 2: eight of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight May eighteen
- 1:22:17Speaker 2: ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings
- 1:22:22Speaker 2: are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer,
- 1:22:26Speaker 2: please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B. MISCELLANEA.
- 1:22:32Speaker 2: The Map of the United States, published by the General
- 1:22:35Speaker 2: Land Office in eighteen ninety six, represented in broad lines
- 1:22:40Speaker 2: the original territory of the United States and the several
- 1:22:44Speaker 2: accessions made to it by purchase or otherwise. Among the
- 1:22:48Speaker 2: mistakes perpetuated by this map is that of representing Oregon
- 1:22:53Speaker 2: i e. The present states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and
- 1:22:58Speaker 2: part of Montana a portion of the Louisiana Purchase. This
- 1:23:02Speaker 2: mistake is taken as a text by Colonel James O.
- 1:23:06Speaker 2: Broadhead for a critical review entitled the Louisiana Purchase Extent
- 1:23:11Speaker 2: of Territory Acquired by the Purchase, published by the Missouri
- 1:23:16Speaker 2: Historical Society Colonel Broadhead shows most conclusively that Louisiana extended
- 1:23:22Speaker 2: on the northwest only to the limits of the Mississippi
- 1:23:26Speaker 2: Drainage basin. The conclusion is not a new one, but
- 1:23:30Speaker 2: we are obliged to Colonel Broadhead for many new items
- 1:23:33Speaker 2: of evidence. If anything were needed to settle the matter
- 1:23:37Speaker 2: beyond peradventure, the proofs which he brings forward should be conclusive. HG.
- 1:23:45Speaker 2: End of Section eight, end of the National Geographic Magazine,
- 1:23:50Speaker 2: Volume eight, May eighteen ninety seven.