Latest / Around the Clock in Europe : A Travel Sequence / National Geographic Magazine Vol. 08 - 04. April 1897-National Geographic Society

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National Geographic Magazine Vol. 08 - 04. April 1897-National Geographic Society · Around the Clock in Europe : A Travel Sequence

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  Speaker 1: Section one of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eighth, April
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  Speaker 1: eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
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  Speaker 1: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
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  Speaker 1: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. A Summer voyage
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  Speaker 1: to the Arctic by G. R. Putnam, United States Coast
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  Speaker 1: and Geodetic Society. Among the scientific parties that assembled at Sydney,
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  Speaker 1: Cape Breton in July last for the purpose of paying
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  Speaker 1: a brief visit to the Arctic under the leadership of
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  Speaker 1: Lieutenant Robert E. Peery U s N, was one organized
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  Speaker 1: by Professor A. E. Burton of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
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  Speaker 1: Of this party, I became a member having been granted
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  Speaker 1: leave of absence by the Superintendent of the Coast and
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  Speaker 1: Geodetic Survey, with the use of the necessary instruments to
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  Speaker 1: carry on magnetic and pendulum observations. The destination of our
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  Speaker 1: party was Umannac Fiord, in the northern part of Danish
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  Speaker 1: Greenland and several hundred miles within the Arctic Circle. This fiord,
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  Speaker 1: although of considerable interest, has seldom been visited by exploring expeditions.
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  Speaker 1: It is one of the largest on the Greenland coast
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  Speaker 1: and contains some of the finest mountain scenery. Being the
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  Speaker 1: outlet of a group of glaciers of unusual magnitude, It
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  Speaker 1: is also the home of the most prosperous of the
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  Speaker 1: Greenland Eskimo communities. Our voyage was but a summer trip
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  Speaker 1: to moderate latitudes, devoid of the conventional Arctic hardships, and
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  Speaker 1: yet such a trip to Greenland has the peculiar advantage
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  Speaker 1: that many of the most striking of Arctic phenomena are
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  Speaker 1: either actually encountered or are easily accessible. We sailed from
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  Speaker 1: Sydney on July sixteenth on the steamer Hope, under the
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  Speaker 1: command of Captain John Bartlett, an experienced Arctic navigator. The
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  Speaker 1: Hope is one of the best of the Newfoundland's seiling
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  Speaker 1: and whaling fleet, which is composed of strongly built ships,
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  Speaker 1: heavily timbered and sheathed for work in the ice, and
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  Speaker 1: manned by hardy Newfoundland sailors. Our course lay north along
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  Speaker 1: the east coast of Cape Breton and the west coast
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  Speaker 1: of Newfoundland, and then through the Straits of Belle Isle,
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  Speaker 1: where on the third day out we saw the first icebergs.
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  Speaker 1: From this time on, for over two months, these Arctic
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  Speaker 1: wanderers formed a part of every scene. At first, they
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  Speaker 1: were a constant source of interest because of their enormous bulk,
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  Speaker 1: their varied outlines, and their beautiful coloring, changing from a
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  Speaker 1: marble white to a sky blue or a delicate pink
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  Speaker 1: with an emerald green just below the surface of the water.
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  Speaker 1: We amused ourselves by idealizing them turreted castles, vast amphitheaters,
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  Speaker 1: triumphal arches, obelisks, ships and animals being all represented in
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  Speaker 1: the magnificent procession of bergs which we passed, some which
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  Speaker 1: I measured had a height of one hundred and sixty
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  Speaker 1: feet above the water and a length of eight hundred feet.
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  Speaker 1: Soon after leaving the Straits, we begun to encounter flow ice,
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  Speaker 1: through which we continued to steam for about seven hundred
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  Speaker 1: miles along the Labrador coast, which we closely followed. This
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  Speaker 1: was a great stream of ice brought south by the
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  Speaker 1: Labrador Current, and consisted of pans from a few feet
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  Speaker 1: to several hundred feet in diameter, but generally so separated
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  Speaker 1: that the steamer could push her way through without difficulty.
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  Speaker 1: In places, however, the effect of the wind had been
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  Speaker 1: to drive the pans close together, and then our progress
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  Speaker 1: was extremely slow, and indeed sometimes the ship was entirely
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  Speaker 1: stopped until a change in wind or tide caused the
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  Speaker 1: ice to loosen to break through barriers across our way.
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  Speaker 1: It was sometimes necessary to back the ship and then
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  Speaker 1: go ahead at full speed, using the prow as a ram.
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  Speaker 1: The sensation of a ship striking and pushing these ice
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  Speaker 1: pans was a little startling at first, but we soon
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  Speaker 1: saw what the vessel could stand, so that only an
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  Speaker 1: unusual bump that would rattle the dishes on the table
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  Speaker 1: and perhaps throw us off our feet would cause remark.
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  Speaker 1: It took us a long time, however, to become used
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  Speaker 1: to the grinding of the ice against the sides of
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  Speaker 1: the vessel as we lay in our bunks at night.
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  Speaker 1: While in this ice, we had some extremely beautiful effects
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  Speaker 1: of the mirage. One day, when steaming along with only
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  Speaker 1: loose cakes about us, we appeared to be surrounded by
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  Speaker 1: a perpendicular ice wall, apparently cutting off all hope of progress.
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  Speaker 1: But as we proceeded, this phantom ice wall, ever, kept
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  Speaker 1: at the same distance from us. Near sunset, the coloring
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  Speaker 1: on this mirage made an especially beautiful sight. We sometimes
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  Speaker 1: saw three and even four perfect images of distant icebergs
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  Speaker 1: and islands, one suspended above another. Some of these effects
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  Speaker 1: were fantastic, beyond description, frequently changing even while we were
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  Speaker 1: gazing on them. Although the ice impeded the progress of
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  Speaker 1: the ship, it proved a blessing in disguise to those
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  Speaker 1: who were not good sailors, as it had the effect
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  Speaker 1: of destroying the ocean'swell. Thousands of New Foundlanders gathered on
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  Speaker 1: the Labrador coast each summer to fish. Many of their
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  Speaker 1: vessels we saw, and at Turnavik, one of their little settlements,
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  Speaker 1: we stopped a few hours. It was while in the
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  Speaker 1: ice off Cape Chudleigh that we first saw polar bears
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  Speaker 1: in their native habitat. A large white bear and two
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  Speaker 1: cubs were one day seen running over the pans, not
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  Speaker 1: far distant from the ship, and their curiosity caused them
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  Speaker 1: to come nearer and gaze at us. They were nearly
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  Speaker 1: the color of the ice, and running nimbly over the
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  Speaker 1: pans or swimming rapidly across the water spaces were a
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  Speaker 1: pretty sight. A number of rifles were brought out and
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  Speaker 1: the large bear was killed after a desperate effort to escape.
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  Speaker 1: A long chase followed for the cubs, the injunction being
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  Speaker 1: to take them alive. They were followed by boats and
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  Speaker 1: on foot over the ice, and finally were taken. The
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  Speaker 1: one captured first was left in charge of one of
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  Speaker 1: the Cornell party to hold until the return of the boat.
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  Speaker 1: As the cub, although but a few weeks old, would
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  Speaker 1: not have been a pleasant companion for one man on
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  Speaker 1: a small ice cake, our comrade, holding to the line
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  Speaker 1: about the bear's neck, kept him in the water and
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  Speaker 1: at a safe distance with a boat hook, and the
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  Speaker 1: struggles of the bear to get on the ice and
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  Speaker 1: of the man to keep him off, furnished considerable amusements
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  Speaker 1: to those members of the party who remained on the ship.
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  Speaker 1: The cubs were finally caged on the deck of the Hope,
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  Speaker 1: and remained our companions during the remainder of the voyage,
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  Speaker 1: growing greatly in size, but not the least in affection,
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  Speaker 1: either for their captors or for each other. They may
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  Speaker 1: now be seen at the National Zoological Park in Washington.
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  Speaker 1: The scenery along the Labrador Coast became more striking as
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  Speaker 1: we proceeded northward. It is mostly a rocky, bleak looking shore,
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  Speaker 1: treeless and barren, indented with deep bays and fringed with islands.
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  Speaker 1: In the southern portion, the topography is low and its
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  Speaker 1: rounded outlines gave every indication of the smoothing effect of
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  Speaker 1: glacial action. Just south of Cape Judley, however, the mountains
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  Speaker 1: fringing the shore attain a height of six thousand feet
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  Speaker 1: and in many cases have sharp, rugged outlines. Passing into
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  Speaker 1: Hudson Street, the hoop was soon clear of the ice.
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  Speaker 1: After steaming over two hundred miles along the north shore,
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  Speaker 1: we reached ash Inlet on July twenty fourth. Here and
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  Speaker 1: on the mainland opposite, two days were spent in exploration
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  Speaker 1: and investigation. At ash Inlet, there was located, some ten
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  Speaker 1: years ago, one of a number of meteorological stations established
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  Speaker 1: by the Canadian government for the study of the Hudson
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  Speaker 1: Bay and Straight climate in connection with the practicability of
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  Speaker 1: regular navigation in this region. A portion of the frame
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  Speaker 1: house was found standing, and it was the only sign
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  Speaker 1: of human habitation, with the exception of a few traces
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  Speaker 1: of Eskimo encampments. A more bleak and desolate looking region,
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  Speaker 1: it would be difficult to imagine where the rock was
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  Speaker 1: not bare. The scanty vegetation was not over a few
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  Speaker 1: inches high. In this vicinity. One of the ship's anchors
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  Speaker 1: was lost, the chain being parted by a moving pan
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  Speaker 1: of ice, and a whale boat was injured by a
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  Speaker 1: southeasterly gale driving it on the rocks. There is a
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  Speaker 1: tremendous tidal action in Hudson Strait, the rise and fall
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  Speaker 1: at ash Inlet being some thirty feet On this account,
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  Speaker 1: the strait does not freeze solid in winter, but becomes
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  Speaker 1: filled with an enormous ice pack, which moves back and
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  Speaker 1: forth and forms an impenetrable barrier to navigation the greater
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  Speaker 1: part of the year. On the way out of Hudson Strait,
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  Speaker 1: we had our first good view of the Eskimo, although
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  Speaker 1: we had seen a few of the race at Turnavik
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  Speaker 1: in Labrador. Our first warning of their approach was a
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  Speaker 1: peculiar shrill call, which travels over the water long distances.
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  Speaker 1: It was some minutes before the initiated could discern the
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  Speaker 1: distant specks on the water, which we were told were
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  Speaker 1: the Eskimo men in their kayaks. They rapidly approached and
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  Speaker 1: were taken on board boats, and all the kayakers were
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  Speaker 1: soon followed by an umiak or large skin boat, filled
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  Speaker 1: with the remainder of the settlement, including women, children and dogs,
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  Speaker 1: as well as nearly all their earthly possessions. Although their
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  Speaker 1: wealth seemed very meager, they appeared to be among the
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  Speaker 1: happiest of peoples. Their round, fat faces simply beamed with
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  Speaker 1: good nature. They were very anxious to trade, the objects
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  Speaker 1: most highly prized being plugs of tobacco, knives, guns, and
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  Speaker 1: copper coins. The last mentioned they took in preference to silver,
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  Speaker 1: their only use for either, apparently being to sow on
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  Speaker 1: to the women's blouses as ornaments. They were dressed in furs,
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  Speaker 1: the men and women much alike, except that the women's
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  Speaker 1: blouses had a long tail behind and a large hood
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  Speaker 1: or sack on the back in which the baby was carried.
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  Speaker 1: Their peculiar appetite was shown off by the relish with
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  Speaker 1: which they drank the contents of some cans of bare oil,
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  Speaker 1: which the boys had been saving to grease their shoes with.
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  Speaker 1: After passing out of Hudson Strait, an attempt was made
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  Speaker 1: to enter Cumberland's Sound, but the entrance was completely blocked
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  Speaker 1: with ice, and our course was shaped for Greenland. In
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  Speaker 1: crossing Davis Strait. We also crossed the Arctic Circle. This
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  Speaker 1: event was celebrated by the firing of cannon and the
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  Speaker 1: hoisting of flags. Neptune came aboard in the person of
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  Speaker 1: one of the sailors who attempted to shave the initiated
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  Speaker 1: using a ladder of engine grease and a ship's scraping
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  Speaker 1: iron for a razor. Our first view of the Greenland
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  Speaker 1: coast was obtained near midnight on August first, the high
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  Speaker 1: ice capped mountains in the vicinity of Halstenburg, forming a
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  Speaker 1: beautiful scene in the Arctic twilight. The following day we
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  Speaker 1: landed at Godhaven, the capital of the Danish Inspectorate of
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  Speaker 1: North Greenland, and we were cordially received by the government officials.
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  Speaker 1: The interior of the island of Disco, on which Godhaven
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  Speaker 1: is situated is the elevated plateau, averaging three or four
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  Speaker 1: thousand feet in height and covered with an ice cap.
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  Speaker 1: The passage through the remarkable channel east of Disco, called
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  Speaker 1: the Vigat, was a continual panel rama of fine scenery.
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  Speaker 1: High mountains rose directly from the water on either side,
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  Speaker 1: with glaciers coming down between them, and glimpses of the
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  Speaker 1: interior ice cap, presenting themselves at intervals. The Vaigat itself
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  Speaker 1: was so filled with enormous bergs that the ship had
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  Speaker 1: to wind its course among them. Entering Umanak Fiord on
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  Speaker 1: the night of August fourth, a most beautiful Arctic midnight
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  Speaker 1: scene was spread out before us. The sun dipped only
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  Speaker 1: about two degrees below the horizon at midnight, so that
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  Speaker 1: after about an hour of glowing sunset, there was bright
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  Speaker 1: sunshine again. Lying along the northern border of the fiord,
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  Speaker 1: where the highest mountains in this part of Greenland sharp
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  Speaker 1: cragged peaks of over six thousand feet. To the eastward
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  Speaker 1: were groups of mountainous islands, and between them could be
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  Speaker 1: seen the smooth white swell of the great interior ice
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  Speaker 1: cap of Greenland. To the south were the mountains, glaciers
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  Speaker 1: and green foothills of Nusowak Peninsula, and to the west
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  Speaker 1: stretched the open water of Baffin Bay, while all around
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  Speaker 1: were the stately icebergs proceeding from the great Glaciers at
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  Speaker 1: the head of the fiord. The Hope left our party
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  Speaker 1: at Umanak, the principal settlement of the district, which was
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  Speaker 1: to be our headquarters for several weeks. And where the
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  Speaker 1: vessel was again to return for us after its trip
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  Speaker 1: further north. The village is situated on an island, which,
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  Speaker 1: though only about three miles in length, has in its
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  Speaker 1: center a mountain nearly four thousand feet in height, a
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  Speaker 1: most remarkable shaft of rock from which the name Umanac,
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  Speaker 1: being the Eskimo for heart shaped, is derived. The village
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  Speaker 1: consists of about one hundred and fifty Eskimos and three
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  Speaker 1: Danish families. We found these Danish officials and their families
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  Speaker 1: most intelligent and hospitable people. They are almost entirely cut
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  Speaker 1: off from the rest of the world, only receiving news
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  Speaker 1: from Europe two or three times during the short summer.
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  Speaker 1: During ten months, they are completely isolated, and for two
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  Speaker 1: months they do not see the sun. In the management
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  Speaker 1: of their possessions in Greenland and of the native races,
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  Speaker 1: the d have followed a plan unique in the world's history.
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  Speaker 1: Between Cape Farewell and Upernivik, said to be the most
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  Speaker 1: northern civilized settlement in the world, there live about ten
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  Speaker 1: thousand Eskimos scattered in villages along the coast. They are
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  Speaker 1: divided into twelve districts, of which Umanak is commercially the
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  Speaker 1: most important. In each district there are usually a governor,
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  Speaker 1: an assistant governor having charge of commercial affairs, and a
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  Speaker 1: Lutheran pastor in care of religious and educational matters. But
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  Speaker 1: beyond these and a few minor officials in charge of
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  Speaker 1: sub settlements. No Danes or other foreigners are allowed to
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  Speaker 1: settle in Greenland. The whole is under the direction of
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  Speaker 1: the Royal Greenland Board of Trade, a government bureau in Copenhagen,
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  Speaker 1: which has a monopoly of the trade in Greenland. Supplies
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  Speaker 1: are sent out annually in nine ships which bring back
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  Speaker 1: the products of the region to Denmark. European goods are
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  Speaker 1: furnished to the eskimos at but a slight advance over
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  Speaker 1: cost price, and they are paid amands fixed in advances
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  Speaker 1: once in five years for the furze, oil, ivory, et cetera,
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  Speaker 1: which they bring in. Although their trade along this coast
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  Speaker 1: is prohibited and vessels are not allowed to even enter
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  Speaker 1: the Greenland ports except by special permission or in distress.
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  Speaker 1: The idea has been to protect the natives in their
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  Speaker 1: rights and pursuits, as well as in their morals. The
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  Speaker 1: arrangement is not a profitable one to the Danish government,
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  Speaker 1: the loss on the Greenland trade during recent years being
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  Speaker 1: said to have been as much as one hundred thousand
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  Speaker 1: dollars annually. Almost every village is provided with a church
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  Speaker 1: and a school, and a language taught is not the Danish,
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  Speaker 1: but not spoken by the natives themselves. The great majority
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  Speaker 1: of the Eskimos can read and write, and are nominally,
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  Speaker 1: if not actually Christianized. Such a policy could hardly have
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  Speaker 1: been carried out in any region less isolated than Greenland.
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  Speaker 1: Whether or not their contact with civilization has been beneficial
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  Speaker 1: to the Greenlanders, it is probable that the continuance of
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  Speaker 1: the Danish system is their only salvation, for if the
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  Speaker 1: Danes were to withdraw the wealth of this region in
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  Speaker 1: fisheries and hunting, would soon attract a population that would
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  Speaker 1: so far interfere with the life and pursuits of the
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  Speaker 1: Eskimos as to cause their early extinction. Those Greenland Eskimos,
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  Speaker 1: although they have been in contact with civilization for two
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  Speaker 1: hundred fifty years and are largely intermixed with foreign blood,
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  Speaker 1: have retained many of their original modes of life. The
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  Speaker 1: more pure blooded are an intelligent looking people, with smooth
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  Speaker 1: round features and frank open countenances. They are short in
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  Speaker 1: stature and have straight black hair. They ordinarily live in
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  Speaker 1: flat roofed houses built of rocks and turf, often containing
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  Speaker 1: but a single room with a sleeping bench at one
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  Speaker 1: end and a long, low entrance for keeping out the
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  Speaker 1: cold in winter. In summer they often live in tents,
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  Speaker 1: moving from place to place. They hunt the seal, walrus, narwhale, reindeer, bear,
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  Speaker 1: and smaller game birds and fish with which the region
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  Speaker 1: is stocked. By far, the most important of these to
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  Speaker 1: them is the hair seal, called by them puis, many
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  Speaker 1: varieties of which are found on this coast. The skin
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  Speaker 1: is used for clothing, boat covering and tents, the blubber
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  Speaker 1: for fuel and illuminating oil, and the flesh for food.
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  Speaker 1: The highest ambition of a young Eskimo is to become
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  Speaker 1: a successful seal catcher. For this pursuit, they have developed
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  Speaker 1: some of the most ingenious appliances ever invented by a
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  Speaker 1: primitive people. In the summer, they use the kayak, a
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  Speaker 1: skin boat, which is a model of ingenuity, lightness, and gracefulness.
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  Speaker 1: With these small frail boats, sometimes not over eighteen inches wide,
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  Speaker 1: they do not hesitate to go out into open water
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  Speaker 1: and to attack large animals such as the seal or walruss.
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  Speaker 1: The more expert can perform remarkable feats, the most astonishing
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  Speaker 1: of which is for the kayaker to turn completely over
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  Speaker 1: boat and all and write himself again without getting out
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  Speaker 1: of the kayak and without getting a drop of water
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  Speaker 1: into it. He wears a waterproofed shirt tied closely about
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  Speaker 1: the small opening in the deck in which he sits,
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  Speaker 1: and rides himself with a dexterous use of his double
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  Speaker 1: bladed paddle. In addition to the rifle which is now
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  Speaker 1: generally used, his main weapon is a harpoon having a
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  Speaker 1: detachable point which remains in the seal after it is struck.
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  Speaker 1: Attached to this point by a long line is an
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  Speaker 1: air bag which floats on the surface and enables the
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  Speaker 1: kayaker to follow the seal in its struggles. In winter,
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  Speaker 1: the Northern Green Lantern depends on his dogs and sledge
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  Speaker 1: for transportation. The Eskimo dogs are his only domestic animals,
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  Speaker 1: and every village is filled with them. On smooth ice,
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  Speaker 1: great distances can be traversed on a single day, speeds
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  Speaker 1: of sixteen miles an hour being attained in umanak Fiord.
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  Speaker 1: The sledging lasts more than half the year, the season
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  Speaker 1: in eighteen ninety six not ending until July. The Eskimos
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  Speaker 1: are a childlike, gentle race. They are honest and remarkably
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  Speaker 1: free from brawls and disputes. Jails and constables are entirely
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  Speaker 1: lacking in Danish Greenland. The very simple local affairs are
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  Speaker 1: regulated by district councils, composed of the leading natives and
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  Speaker 1: the Danish officials, who meet twice a year. The language
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  Speaker 1: is most peculiar and difficult for a stranger to master.
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  Speaker 1: It is composed almost entirely of nouns and verbs, and
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  Speaker 1: by suffixes and affixes to these the other parts of
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  Speaker 1: speech are formed. It is possible to express the meaning
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  Speaker 1: of a long English sentence in a single word, but
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  Speaker 1: some of these are forty letters in length. The investigations
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  Speaker 1: of Rink have shown that the more familiar words are
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  Speaker 1: common to all the Eskimo peoples, thus proving their common origin.
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  Speaker 1: He estimates that there are about thirty thousand Eskimos, of
• 18:42
  Speaker 1: whom one third live in Danish Greenland, one third in Alaska,
• 18:45
  Speaker 1: and the remaining in northeastern Siberia. The northern portions of
• 18:49
  Speaker 1: North America and a few in Greenland beyond the Danish dominions.
• 18:54
  Speaker 1: From Umanac, several trips were made in small boats to
• 18:57
  Speaker 1: the great glaciers at the head of the Fiord. The
• 18:59
  Speaker 1: largest of these is Carajak. The face of this glacier
• 19:03
  Speaker 1: from which the bergs break off into salt water, has
• 19:07
  Speaker 1: a width of about four miles, a height above the
• 19:09
  Speaker 1: water of over two hundred and fifty feet, and in
• 19:12
  Speaker 1: the center moved with a velocity of from twenty to
• 19:15
  Speaker 1: thirty five feet per day. A single iceberg breaking off
• 19:19
  Speaker 1: from this glacier has been estimated to contain twenty four
• 19:22
  Speaker 1: million cubic yards of ice. At the price usually paid
• 19:26
  Speaker 1: for ice for domestic purposes in the United States, the
• 19:29
  Speaker 1: ice in such a berg as this would be worse
• 19:31
  Speaker 1: over one hundred million dollars. At another glacier, Hitivtliarsuk, we
• 19:36
  Speaker 1: saw a great mass three hundred feet long break from
• 19:39
  Speaker 1: the face, the crashing and hundering noise that resulted the
• 19:43
  Speaker 1: surging of the burg until it found its equilibrium in
• 19:46
  Speaker 1: the water, and the dashing of the waves on the
• 19:48
  Speaker 1: beach with spray in places one hundred feet high or
• 19:51
  Speaker 1: more made an impressive scene. In the narrower fiords, the
• 19:55
  Speaker 1: calving of a large berg will sometimes cause a tidal
• 19:59
  Speaker 1: swell that will rise the water twenty feet. The surface
• 20:02
  Speaker 1: of a glacier near its front is usually a mass
• 20:05
  Speaker 1: of jagged pinnacles with deep crevices between. Looking up the
• 20:09
  Speaker 1: slope of the Great Ice River, the surface becomes smoother,
• 20:12
  Speaker 1: and finally, back on the distant horizon one sees the
• 20:15
  Speaker 1: apparently smooth white plain of the ice cap. A climb
• 20:20
  Speaker 1: to the summit of a three thousand foot mountain near
• 20:22
  Speaker 1: the Ittievedliarsuk Glacier give us some idea of this great
• 20:26
  Speaker 1: ice cap and the glacial work along its edge. As
• 20:30
  Speaker 1: far as the eye could reach to the north, south,
• 20:32
  Speaker 1: and east extended this smooth white field of ice, sloping
• 20:36
  Speaker 1: up from the sea coast, and with the horizon line
• 20:39
  Speaker 1: as level as that of the ocean. At regular intervals
• 20:43
  Speaker 1: along its edge could be seen the crevicing at the
• 20:45
  Speaker 1: heads of the glaciers, which were themselves cut off from
• 20:48
  Speaker 1: view by the intervening mountains At our feet. The course
• 20:52
  Speaker 1: of the Ice River was spread out before us, winding
• 20:55
  Speaker 1: through the mountain valleys and around the nunattacks or peaks
• 20:58
  Speaker 1: projecting through the ice, from each of which drew out
• 21:01
  Speaker 1: a long moraine of rock debris. The interior ice sheet
• 21:05
  Speaker 1: covers the whole of Greenland, with the exception of a
• 21:08
  Speaker 1: narrow fringe along the coast. It rises to elevations of
• 21:11
  Speaker 1: from eight thousand to ten thousand feet in the center,
• 21:15
  Speaker 1: and the enormous pressure of the accumulating snow presses out
• 21:18
  Speaker 1: the glaciers through every opening in the bordering mountains. That
• 21:22
  Speaker 1: this ice sheet was once more extensive than it is
• 21:25
  Speaker 1: now is proved by the rounded outlines and glacial scratches
• 21:28
  Speaker 1: found on nearly all the coastal mountains. On the other hand,
• 21:32
  Speaker 1: the climate of Greenland must at one time have been
• 21:35
  Speaker 1: very much warmer. In the vicinity of Umanac Fiord, coal
• 21:39
  Speaker 1: deposits are found and fossils of such semi tropical trees
• 21:42
  Speaker 1: as the fig and magnolia. Notwithstanding the nearness of the
• 21:46
  Speaker 1: ice cap, the present climate of Greenland is much milder
• 21:49
  Speaker 1: than that of the opposite side of Davis Strait in
• 21:53
  Speaker 1: the Fiords. The summer climate is moderate and pleasant. We
• 21:56
  Speaker 1: found light winter clothing comfortable, but nothing more was needed.
• 22:00
  Speaker 1: Wherever there is soil. There is an abundance of wild
• 22:03
  Speaker 1: flowers and grasses, but we found no trees. A curious
• 22:07
  Speaker 1: meteorological fact is that the foam wind, which blows directly
• 22:11
  Speaker 1: off the ice cap always brings the warmest weather, the
• 22:15
  Speaker 1: usual explanation being that this heating of the wind is
• 22:18
  Speaker 1: due to its sudden descent from the elevated interior to
• 22:21
  Speaker 1: the low coast. The Hope called for us at Umanak
• 22:25
  Speaker 1: on September ninth, and our homeward voyage followed much the
• 22:28
  Speaker 1: same course as our outward one. The only severe storm
• 22:32
  Speaker 1: we encountered was in crossing Davis Street off Cape Mercy.
• 22:35
  Speaker 1: The Hope was caught in an ice pack, in which
• 22:38
  Speaker 1: she was held for three days. With the change of wind,
• 22:41
  Speaker 1: the ice lootened and the ship was slowly extricated, reaching
• 22:45
  Speaker 1: open water in Cumberland Sound. Two days were spent in
• 22:49
  Speaker 1: the vicinity of black Lead Island. This is a Scotch
• 22:52
  Speaker 1: whaling station and the settlement consists of three or four
• 22:55
  Speaker 1: Europeans and a large number of eskilos. The system obtaining
• 23:00
  Speaker 1: here is a sort of feudal one without government control.
• 23:03
  Speaker 1: The natives work for the management, in return for which
• 23:06
  Speaker 1: they received European supplies, no money being used. From this point,
• 23:11
  Speaker 1: two passengers were brought back to America, one an English
• 23:14
  Speaker 1: missionary who had been working among the Esquimos, and the
• 23:17
  Speaker 1: other at Dane, who had charge of an American whaling
• 23:20
  Speaker 1: station further south. The latter brought with him the whalebone
• 23:24
  Speaker 1: taken from a single whale, the whalebone weighing something over
• 23:28
  Speaker 1: a ton and being valued at more than ten thousand dollars.
• 23:32
  Speaker 1: Both of these men, who had spent years in this bleak,
• 23:35
  Speaker 1: cold country, expressed regret at leaving it and the hope
• 23:38
  Speaker 1: of returning soon. The voyage from Cumberland Sound was without incident,
• 23:44
  Speaker 1: save some beautiful or auroral displays at night, and we
• 23:47
  Speaker 1: landed at Sydney on September twenty sixth. All the forty
• 23:50
  Speaker 1: gate persons constituting the passengers and crew returning well and
• 23:54
  Speaker 1: without accident. Some investigations in two lines of terrestrial physics
• 23:59
  Speaker 1: were carried out by the writer in connection with the
• 24:01
  Speaker 1: work of Professor Barton's party. At each of the stopping places,
• 24:05
  Speaker 1: where time permitted, magnetic observations were made determining the deviation
• 24:10
  Speaker 1: of the compass needle from true north. The dip of
• 24:12
  Speaker 1: the dipping needle and the forests of the Earth's magnetism.
• 24:16
  Speaker 1: Two of the stations were near enough to the magnetic
• 24:19
  Speaker 1: north pole of the Earth to cause the dipping needle
• 24:21
  Speaker 1: to stand within six degrees of the vertical. The Greenland
• 24:25
  Speaker 1: stations were so well to the east of the magnetic
• 24:27
  Speaker 1: pole that the compass needle pointed more nearly west than north.
• 24:32
  Speaker 1: The horizontal magnetic force and these regions is very weak
• 24:35
  Speaker 1: on account of the great dip, so that magnetic disturbances
• 24:38
  Speaker 1: caused considerable changes in the needle, a change of over
• 24:42
  Speaker 1: four degrees being noted in a single day at one point.
• 24:46
  Speaker 1: For the same reason, the ship's compasses were irregular. A
• 24:49
  Speaker 1: comparison of these results with early magnetic observations made in
• 24:53
  Speaker 1: these regions clearly indicates the direction of change at present
• 24:56
  Speaker 1: going on at all the stations. From Halifax, Novasco to Umannac, Greenland.
• 25:02
  Speaker 1: The westerly declination, the dip, and the total magnetic force
• 25:06
  Speaker 1: are all diminishing at several points. Also, pendulum observations for
• 25:10
  Speaker 1: the measurement of the force of gravity were made. This
• 25:13
  Speaker 1: force increases from the equator to the poles, and following
• 25:16
  Speaker 1: the theorem of the French mathematician Claren the amounts of
• 25:19
  Speaker 1: flattening at the poles of the Earth may be computed
• 25:22
  Speaker 1: by comparing the force of gravity at different latitudes. By
• 25:26
  Speaker 1: a well known law, the time of oscillation of a
• 25:29
  Speaker 1: pendulum will be proportional to the square root of the
• 25:32
  Speaker 1: force of gravity, so that by comparing the time of
• 25:35
  Speaker 1: oscillation of the same pendulum at different places, the relation
• 25:39
  Speaker 1: of the force of gravity may be obtained. Comparatively few
• 25:43
  Speaker 1: such observations have been made in high latitudes, where they
• 25:46
  Speaker 1: have great weight in the problem of the figure of
• 25:49
  Speaker 1: the Earth.
• 25:51
  Speaker 2: End of section one, section two of the National Geographic Magazine,
• 26:01
  Speaker 2: Volume eight, April eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording.
• 26:06
  Speaker 2: All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more
• 26:09
  Speaker 2: information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. A
• 26:13
  Speaker 2: recording by Mariannspiegel. Area and drainage basin of Lake Superior
• 26:20
  Speaker 2: by doctor Mark W. Harrington, President of the University of
• 26:24
  Speaker 2: the State of Washington. Lake Superior is the largest and
• 26:30
  Speaker 2: one of the deepest, not only of the great lakes
• 26:32
  Speaker 2: of the Saint Lawrence Basin, but of all the bodies
• 26:34
  Speaker 2: of fresh water on the earth, and it possesses some
• 26:37
  Speaker 2: other remarkable characteristics of its own. Yet, though it has
• 26:41
  Speaker 2: been so long known that it was roughly mapped two
• 26:43
  Speaker 2: hundred and fifty years ago under its present name, and
• 26:46
  Speaker 2: charted several times with fair accuracy in details for the
• 26:50
  Speaker 2: time before the end of the seventeenth century, and though
• 26:52
  Speaker 2: it was charted with minute accuracy by the United States
• 26:55
  Speaker 2: engineers thirty years ago, there has even yet been but
• 26:59
  Speaker 2: little discussion of its more interesting and peculiar features. This
• 27:03
  Speaker 2: is all the more remarkable because its extraordinary wealth in
• 27:06
  Speaker 2: minerals and fish has been recognized from the beginning and
• 27:10
  Speaker 2: has for half a century formed an important item of
• 27:13
  Speaker 2: our national wealth and commerce, and more recent developments have
• 27:16
  Speaker 2: shown agricultural possibilities which are by no means contemptible. It
• 27:21
  Speaker 2: is the purpose of this paper to call attention to
• 27:23
  Speaker 2: some of the peculiar and noteworthy features of the lake,
• 27:26
  Speaker 2: more especially those which relate to its climate and weather,
• 27:30
  Speaker 2: and have a bearing on its commerce and agriculture. The
• 27:34
  Speaker 2: statistics of Lake Superior as to coastline in area vary
• 27:39
  Speaker 2: so much in geographic publications that I have had new
• 27:43
  Speaker 2: measurements made with a planimiter by mister R. F. De
• 27:48
  Speaker 2: Grain of the Weather Bureau, the coastline being carefully meandered.
• 27:53
  Speaker 2: The following are the results. Coastline on the American side
• 27:57
  Speaker 2: eight hundred and eighty miles, on the can Eightian side
• 28:01
  Speaker 2: nine hundred and ninety two miles. Total coastline one thousand,
• 28:04
  Speaker 2: eight hundred and seventy two miles areas of Lake Superior,
• 28:10
  Speaker 2: total including all bays and islands thirty two thousand, one
• 28:14
  Speaker 2: hundred and sixty six square miles deduct islands, Isle Royal
• 28:19
  Speaker 2: two hundred twenty three square miles, Saint Ignacy one hundred
• 28:23
  Speaker 2: and twelve square miles, Missipicoton eighty three square miles, Simpson
• 28:29
  Speaker 2: thirty six square miles, Grand twenty six square miles, Pie
• 28:33
  Speaker 2: twenty two square miles, Slate fourteen square miles, Copper twelve
• 28:38
  Speaker 2: square miles, Apostle Islands eighty two square miles. Total six
• 28:45
  Speaker 2: hundred and sixty square miles. Total water surface thirty one thousand,
• 28:50
  Speaker 2: five hundred and six square miles. It is customary on
• 28:54
  Speaker 2: the lake to look on certain nearly enclosed bays as
• 28:56
  Speaker 2: distinct from the lake, deducting these Whitefish Bay three hundred
• 29:01
  Speaker 2: and fifty three square miles, Nippekem Bay three hundred and
• 29:06
  Speaker 2: ten square miles, Black Bay two hundred and thirteen square miles,
• 29:10
  Speaker 2: Thunder Bay one hundred and sixty five square miles. Total
• 29:14
  Speaker 2: area of bays one thousand, forty one square miles, resulting
• 29:19
  Speaker 2: open lake water surface three thousand, four hundred and sixty
• 29:22
  Speaker 2: five square miles. Of the thirty two thousand, one hundred
• 29:28
  Speaker 2: and sixty six square miles of the total surface of
• 29:30
  Speaker 2: the lake, there are on the American side twenty three thousand,
• 29:33
  Speaker 2: three hundred and fifty nine square miles and on the
• 29:35
  Speaker 2: Canadian side eight thousand, eight hundred and seven square miles.
• 29:40
  Speaker 2: The boundary line across the lake between the Dominion and
• 29:42
  Speaker 2: the United States is two hundred and eighty nine miles long.
• 29:46
  Speaker 2: With a surface area of thirty two thousand, one hundred
• 29:48
  Speaker 2: and sixty six square miles, Lake Superior is the largest
• 29:51
  Speaker 2: lake in the world. Next comes probably Victoria Nayanza or
• 29:57
  Speaker 2: Ukerewe in Equatorial Africa, with an estimate area of twenty
• 30:01
  Speaker 2: five to thirty thousand square miles. Lake Superior is a
• 30:04
  Speaker 2: half larger than Lake Michigan twenty two thousand square miles
• 30:08
  Speaker 2: or Lake Huron twenty four thousand square miles and nearly
• 30:12
  Speaker 2: twice as large as Lake Erie ten thousand square miles
• 30:15
  Speaker 2: and Lake Ontario seven thousand square miles combined. The combined
• 30:19
  Speaker 2: area of the Great Lakes of the Saint Lawrence, as
• 30:22
  Speaker 2: given by Schmeermerhorn, is ninety five thousand, two hundred and
• 30:26
  Speaker 2: seventy five square miles, and a third of this is
• 30:28
  Speaker 2: formed by Lake Superior. Of the islands, the largest and
• 30:33
  Speaker 2: most remarkable is the one to which the early Jesuit
• 30:36
  Speaker 2: visitors gave the name Isle Royale or Regal Island. As
• 30:41
  Speaker 2: seen from the north shore, it appeared to the natives
• 30:43
  Speaker 2: like a sleeping manitou lying prone, but for some reason
• 30:47
  Speaker 2: unknown they chose to consider it an evil spirit and
• 30:50
  Speaker 2: called it Wendigo. The natives never ventured on the island,
• 30:54
  Speaker 2: and I was told in the summer of eighteen ninety
• 30:56
  Speaker 2: four that they are still very loath to do so.
• 30:59
  Speaker 2: Judging by the amount of money which has been expended
• 31:02
  Speaker 2: on it within the last half century, with no adequate return.
• 31:05
  Speaker 2: It has proved a hoodoo island to the whites. Also,
• 31:09
  Speaker 2: copper indications abound, and so also do the deserted shafts
• 31:13
  Speaker 2: and drifts where somebody has tried following a vane or
• 31:16
  Speaker 2: reaching it from one side. Probably a million and a
• 31:20
  Speaker 2: half or two million dollars have been expended in mining
• 31:23
  Speaker 2: on Isle Royal with inappreciable return. The cloresto lights or
• 31:29
  Speaker 2: greenstones of Isle Royale have probably given and may continue
• 31:33
  Speaker 2: to give more income than the copper. The island consists
• 31:36
  Speaker 2: of a series of ridges running parallel to its length,
• 31:39
  Speaker 2: reaching at times a height of four hundred five hundred
• 31:41
  Speaker 2: feet above the lake, generally smoothed and rounded on top,
• 31:45
  Speaker 2: terminating to the northeast. In the most interesting illustration of
• 31:48
  Speaker 2: Fiord structures to be found on the continent, fingers shaped
• 31:52
  Speaker 2: alternations of slender bays and equally slender peninsulas, the latter
• 31:57
  Speaker 2: extending or breaking up into parallel lines of i. Is
• 31:59
  Speaker 2: Land Afford a complex of land and water, the former
• 32:03
  Speaker 2: steep and rocky, but generally covered with a dense growth
• 32:06
  Speaker 2: of dark green spruce and fir trees, the latter very deep,
• 32:10
  Speaker 2: very blue, and very clear, the whole very picturesque in
• 32:14
  Speaker 2: bright weather, but extremely confusing when the weather is smoky
• 32:16
  Speaker 2: or foggy. The population of the island is generally small
• 32:21
  Speaker 2: and never permanent. It belongs to Michigan and brings the
• 32:24
  Speaker 2: western point of this state, only twelve miles from the
• 32:27
  Speaker 2: eastern point of Minnesota. It was at one time a
• 32:31
  Speaker 2: county by itself, but there were not enough permanent residents
• 32:33
  Speaker 2: to fill the offices, and it was attached to hotan
• 32:36
  Speaker 2: county of the mainland. It has no post office. There
• 32:40
  Speaker 2: is abundant water, the soil is excellent, though small in quantity,
• 32:44
  Speaker 2: and the usual vegetables and cereals can be raised. The
• 32:47
  Speaker 2: native animals on the island included nothing larger than the
• 32:50
  Speaker 2: lynx or wildcat, until a few years ago, when a
• 32:53
  Speaker 2: small drove of cariboo came over on the ice from
• 32:56
  Speaker 2: the north shore. The passage between Al Royal and the
• 33:00
  Speaker 2: north shore, though only twelve to eighteen miles broad, has
• 33:03
  Speaker 2: so deep water and so strong currents that it does
• 33:06
  Speaker 2: not long remain frozen, and the cariboos still remain on
• 33:09
  Speaker 2: the island, where not being hunted, they had become in
• 33:13
  Speaker 2: eighteen ninety four a drove of a score or more,
• 33:16
  Speaker 2: and were quite tame. They are said to be sometimes
• 33:20
  Speaker 2: found standing and looking with longing eyes toward the north shore,
• 33:23
  Speaker 2: as if anxious to return to their fellows with the
• 33:26
  Speaker 2: expanse of the continent before them. The very deep soundings
• 33:30
  Speaker 2: which can be made on all sides of Isle Royal
• 33:32
  Speaker 2: and almost off its banks, and the form and surface
• 33:36
  Speaker 2: of the island show that it is an isolated and
• 33:38
  Speaker 2: nearly submerged mountain ridge, rising from one thousand to fifteen
• 33:42
  Speaker 2: hundred feet from the bottom of the lake. It is
• 33:45
  Speaker 2: the only island of this sort in the Great Lakes,
• 33:48
  Speaker 2: and for its parallel we must look to the isolated
• 33:50
  Speaker 2: and volcanic islands of the Great Oceans. The island next
• 33:55
  Speaker 2: in size is Saint Ignace, or with Anglo Saxon Love
• 33:59
  Speaker 2: of Brevity, simply Ignace. It is one of the series
• 34:03
  Speaker 2: of islands which close the three Great Bays, Thunder, Black
• 34:07
  Speaker 2: and Nipagon of the extreme north of the lake. With
• 34:10
  Speaker 2: the projecting ends of the two peninsulas between these bays,
• 34:13
  Speaker 2: they form a remarkable series of escarpments extending from Pigeon
• 34:17
  Speaker 2: River on the west nearly to Slate Islands on the east,
• 34:21
  Speaker 2: all belonging to Ontario. Beginning at the west, the first
• 34:25
  Speaker 2: great island and the stopper to Thunder Bay is Pie Island,
• 34:29
  Speaker 2: so named for its resemblance to a British pie, a
• 34:32
  Speaker 2: structure which has a much greater altitude than its American namesake.
• 34:36
  Speaker 2: This island has an area of twenty two square miles
• 34:39
  Speaker 2: and consists of two tabled hills or mountains, separated by
• 34:43
  Speaker 2: a large space so low as to make the tables
• 34:45
  Speaker 2: appear to be separate islands. The western or smaller table,
• 34:50
  Speaker 2: is eight hundred and fifty feet above sea level. Its
• 34:53
  Speaker 2: escarpments are very abrupt on all sides, and the top
• 34:56
  Speaker 2: is nearly inaccessible. On it, however, is a large pond
• 35:00
  Speaker 2: or small lake without outlet but stocked with brook trout.
• 35:04
  Speaker 2: The other table, the Pie Proper, is much larger, but
• 35:08
  Speaker 2: only seven hundred feet high and relatively inaccessible. Next, going eastward,
• 35:13
  Speaker 2: is Thunder Cape, the extreme point of the peninsula between
• 35:16
  Speaker 2: Thunder Bay and Black Bay. Precipitous and rising directly from
• 35:19
  Speaker 2: the lake to an elevation of twelve hundred fifty feet
• 35:22
  Speaker 2: from the surface. It is the highest point immediately on
• 35:26
  Speaker 2: Lake Superior, and is of tabular form. The precipitous sides
• 35:30
  Speaker 2: are carved into curious forms, especially on the west side,
• 35:34
  Speaker 2: and are bare of trees. The assumed daily thunder about
• 35:37
  Speaker 2: this point in summer is the alleged origin of the
• 35:40
  Speaker 2: name of the cape, as well as of the bay
• 35:42
  Speaker 2: over which it stands sentinel. The stopper for Black Bay
• 35:46
  Speaker 2: is Edward Island six square miles, and Nippigham Bay is
• 35:50
  Speaker 2: closed by Saint Ignace, Simpson or Samson and Copper Islands
• 35:54
  Speaker 2: in their order from west to east. These islands are
• 35:59
  Speaker 2: very similar in general care characteristics, and a description of
• 36:01
  Speaker 2: Saint Ignace will apply to all. It is of a
• 36:05
  Speaker 2: general quadrangular form, and is separated from the Peninsula to
• 36:09
  Speaker 2: the west and Simpson to the east by narrow rivers
• 36:12
  Speaker 2: or fiord like straits, only a mile or so broad,
• 36:15
  Speaker 2: though many miles long, and several to many fathoms deep.
• 36:19
  Speaker 2: Like the preceding, it is of basaltic character, but the
• 36:22
  Speaker 2: tabular formation so abundantly represented around Thunder Bay is here
• 36:27
  Speaker 2: modified by lower altitudes and by rounded hills which replace
• 36:31
  Speaker 2: the flat surface. On Saint Ignace Island, the highest hill
• 36:34
  Speaker 2: attains an elevation of about eight hundred and fifty feet.
• 36:38
  Speaker 2: On Lake Superior, there is but one archipelago proper, that is,
• 36:43
  Speaker 2: a cluster of islands in which no one greatly surpasses
• 36:45
  Speaker 2: all the others. This is the archipelago of the Apostle Islands,
• 36:50
  Speaker 2: or more briefly, the Apostles, so called by the early
• 36:53
  Speaker 2: Jesuit fathers because there were twelve principal islands. The individual islands, however,
• 36:59
  Speaker 2: have received anything being bought Apostolic names, being in order
• 37:02
  Speaker 2: of size, Madeline twenty three square miles, Stockton sixteen square miles,
• 37:08
  Speaker 2: Outer twelve, Oak eight Sand, four Bear, Basswood and Michigan
• 37:15
  Speaker 2: each three square miles, Rocky, Otter, Manitou, and Cat each
• 37:21
  Speaker 2: two square miles. Then comes the thirteenth Apostle, or Devil's Island,
• 37:26
  Speaker 2: then the South and North twins. The total area of
• 37:29
  Speaker 2: the archipelago is eighty two square miles. The larger of
• 37:33
  Speaker 2: these islands are somewhat hilly and are covered with spruce
• 37:35
  Speaker 2: trees of some size. The smaller are sandy and level.
• 37:40
  Speaker 2: They were settled early in the history of the colonization
• 37:42
  Speaker 2: of the lake, but the population has since dwindled until
• 37:45
  Speaker 2: it is almost nil. There is no post office on
• 37:48
  Speaker 2: the islands. The drainage basin of Lake Superior is relatively small.
• 37:54
  Speaker 2: Its outlines have not been so definitely mapped that it
• 37:57
  Speaker 2: can be measured with the same accuracy as that of
• 37:59
  Speaker 2: the lake surface, but the total area may be put
• 38:02
  Speaker 2: at eighty two thousand, eight hundred square miles. Of this,
• 38:05
  Speaker 2: the area of the lake itself makes thirty nine percent,
• 38:08
  Speaker 2: and of the land thirty nine percent is Canadian and
• 38:11
  Speaker 2: twenty two percent American. The margin of the watershed is
• 38:14
  Speaker 2: low in all directions, and it is in general ill defined.
• 38:18
  Speaker 2: Along it, Throughout almost its entire length, are found innumerable
• 38:22
  Speaker 2: small bodies of water, isolated and without drainage, except at
• 38:26
  Speaker 2: seasons of high water, showing that this watershed is indefinite.
• 38:31
  Speaker 2: The lowest points of the watershed are on the southeast,
• 38:34
  Speaker 2: near the Saint Mary's River, where it reaches but a
• 38:36
  Speaker 2: few score feet above the lake. It gradually rises toward
• 38:40
  Speaker 2: the west, and at a point about fifty miles southeast
• 38:43
  Speaker 2: of Marquette first reaches an altitude of four hundred feet
• 38:45
  Speaker 2: above the lake surface. South of koena point it reaches
• 38:50
  Speaker 2: nine hundred or one thousand feet, and continues at this
• 38:53
  Speaker 2: elevation to the mountains of northeast Minnesota, with so slight
• 38:57
  Speaker 2: fall in either direction that it forms a distinct area
• 39:00
  Speaker 2: of independent lakes, generally small in size but extremely numerous,
• 39:04
  Speaker 2: both in northern Wisconsin and northern Minnesota. The separation of
• 39:09
  Speaker 2: the waters of the Saint Louis and the Mississippi, where
• 39:11
  Speaker 2: they come closest together, is but a few feet. The
• 39:15
  Speaker 2: highest known point of the watershed is in the Mesabi
• 39:19
  Speaker 2: Mountains in northeastern Minnesota, where it reaches fifteen hundred feet
• 39:23
  Speaker 2: above the lake, and isolated points are higher. To the
• 39:27
  Speaker 2: north of the lake, the watershed is more distant from
• 39:29
  Speaker 2: the lake and not so well known. The topographic features
• 39:33
  Speaker 2: on the south side are low, rolling and well rounded.
• 39:37
  Speaker 2: On the northwest, they are sharper, but still preserve the
• 39:39
  Speaker 2: ordinary mountain form, though sharply serrated. This is especially true
• 39:44
  Speaker 2: of the regular indentations of the Sawtooth Mountains, which follow
• 39:48
  Speaker 2: the northwest shore of the lake and in some places
• 39:51
  Speaker 2: form the watershed. As soon as the Canadian border is
• 39:55
  Speaker 2: passed in the west, the escarpment structure becomes marked. That is,
• 39:59
  Speaker 2: an elevator plateau relatively flat. Through this, the streams have
• 40:04
  Speaker 2: cut down five hundred or even one thousand feet, forming
• 40:07
  Speaker 2: a broad level valley or narrow ravine, but leaving generally
• 40:11
  Speaker 2: nearly vertical walls. This structure is very characteristic of the
• 40:15
  Speaker 2: thunder Bay region. And extends eastward to the Nipigon Valley,
• 40:19
  Speaker 2: but farther eastward it appears to run out until to
• 40:22
  Speaker 2: the east of Lake Superior. The basin is similar in
• 40:24
  Speaker 2: topography and vegetation to that about the River Saint Mary.
• 40:29
  Speaker 2: The drainage area on the south shore is narrow, often
• 40:32
  Speaker 2: not more than twenty miles wide, and seldom more than
• 40:34
  Speaker 2: twice that. The tributaries to the lake are here very
• 40:38
  Speaker 2: numerous but small. There are about four score that are
• 40:42
  Speaker 2: twenty miles or more long, but few of them exceed
• 40:44
  Speaker 2: fifty miles. They usually descend rapidly from their source to
• 40:48
  Speaker 2: the lake. In some cases, as in that of the
• 40:51
  Speaker 2: streams of the pictured rocks, they have a considerable fall
• 40:55
  Speaker 2: at or near the shore, and the streams that enter
• 40:57
  Speaker 2: at the same level as the lake are usually barred
• 41:00
  Speaker 2: by the combination action of their sediment and the waves.
• 41:04
  Speaker 2: The longest stream on the south shore is the Ontonagan,
• 41:07
  Speaker 2: which enters at Ontonagan and has a length of one
• 41:10
  Speaker 2: hundred miles with a basin of two hundred and fifty
• 41:12
  Speaker 2: square miles. At the extreme western angle of the lakes
• 41:16
  Speaker 2: enters the Saint Louis River, considered the mother stream of
• 41:19
  Speaker 2: the lake and the source of the Saint Lawrence. It
• 41:22
  Speaker 2: is two hundred miles long and has a basin containing
• 41:24
  Speaker 2: four thousand, three hundred and seventy square miles. The basin
• 41:27
  Speaker 2: adjoins the remarkable Lacustrin region of Rainy Lake, from which
• 41:32
  Speaker 2: it is separated towards the east by the Iron or
• 41:35
  Speaker 2: Massabi Range. Elsewhere, its separation from this region, and in
• 41:39
  Speaker 2: the west and south from the basin of the Upper Mississippi,
• 41:42
  Speaker 2: is low and ill defined, characterized by the presence of lakes, ponds,
• 41:46
  Speaker 2: and swamps. Its source is in Otter Lake, thirty miles
• 41:50
  Speaker 2: from the northwest shore of Lake Superior and one thousand,
• 41:54
  Speaker 2: six hundred and fifty feet above sea level or one
• 41:56
  Speaker 2: thousand fifty feet above the lake surface. It flows southwest
• 42:00
  Speaker 2: until about twenty five miles from the Mississippi River, when
• 42:03
  Speaker 2: it turns sharply southeast soon descends nearly all its one
• 42:07
  Speaker 2: thousand fifty feet a fall and enters Lake Superior through
• 42:10
  Speaker 2: a long estuary. Its minimum flow of water is nil,
• 42:14
  Speaker 2: for it is sometimes frozen solid. Its average contribution to
• 42:18
  Speaker 2: the lake is estimated by green Leaf at one thousand,
• 42:22
  Speaker 2: two hundred and forty two cubic feet per second, but
• 42:25
  Speaker 2: it is probably considerably larger. The rapids are at the Dales,
• 42:30
  Speaker 2: below the mouth of its tributary, the Cloquette, and but
• 42:34
  Speaker 2: a few miles above Duluth. The presence of a considerable
• 42:37
  Speaker 2: stream with a large fall within a short distance of
• 42:40
  Speaker 2: two such prosperous towns as Superior and Duluth has suggested
• 42:44
  Speaker 2: to enterprising engineers the scheme of damming the Saint Louis
• 42:48
  Speaker 2: above the Dales and bringing its waters to these cities
• 42:52
  Speaker 2: under a head of six hundred and fifty feet as
• 42:54
  Speaker 2: an enormous source of cheap power. X Representative M R.
• 42:59
  Speaker 2: Ball of that congressional district makes the following report on
• 43:03
  Speaker 2: this plan. The company has discovered that by putting a
• 43:07
  Speaker 2: dam just above Cloquette, it can make a reservoir which
• 43:11
  Speaker 2: will not only be the largest in the world, but
• 43:13
  Speaker 2: will lie entirely within the bluffs of the natural streams.
• 43:16
  Speaker 2: That from the level to which the river will be
• 43:18
  Speaker 2: raised by the proposed dam, water can be taken in
• 43:21
  Speaker 2: a straight line through a canal or pipe only twelve
• 43:24
  Speaker 2: miles long to the bluffs back of Duluth, at an
• 43:27
  Speaker 2: elevation of six hundred and fifty feet above Lake Superior,
• 43:31
  Speaker 2: and that by the storage in this great reservoir of
• 43:34
  Speaker 2: the flood waters which now go to waste, a supply
• 43:37
  Speaker 2: of water will be available for use under that head,
• 43:39
  Speaker 2: which will create the greatest water power in the world.
• 43:44
  Speaker 2: One curious difficulty is found in the fact that if
• 43:47
  Speaker 2: the dam is made too high, the reservoir will empty
• 43:49
  Speaker 2: into the Mississippi River and thus contribute to the water
• 43:52
  Speaker 2: power of Minneapolis instead of to that of Duluth. Reference
• 43:56
  Speaker 2: has been made to the estuary at the mouth of
• 43:58
  Speaker 2: the Saint Louis. This has so many features of interest
• 44:02
  Speaker 2: that it deserves a fuller treatment than space will here permit.
• 44:06
  Speaker 2: Suffice it to say that Lake Superior has been robbed
• 44:09
  Speaker 2: of the extremity of her horn by the combined action
• 44:12
  Speaker 2: of the water and the river and the waves of
• 44:15
  Speaker 2: the lake. Formerly the lake extended up to Fondilac, so
• 44:19
  Speaker 2: named because the fact of the termination of the lake
• 44:22
  Speaker 2: here was recognized when the settlement was first established. From
• 44:27
  Speaker 2: here to Duluth is eight miles and to Superior City
• 44:30
  Speaker 2: seven miles. From Duluth to Superior is five miles. The
• 44:34
  Speaker 2: triangle thus enclosed by the sides of seven eight and
• 44:37
  Speaker 2: five miles is the area of which the lake has
• 44:40
  Speaker 2: been robbed. All this has been done within times geologically recent,
• 44:44
  Speaker 2: but before settlements were made, and the later stages of
• 44:47
  Speaker 2: the operation are still in progress. Lake Superior has not
• 44:51
  Speaker 2: submitted tamely to this highway robbery. She has resisted it continually,
• 44:55
  Speaker 2: and at several points the topography shows that her resistance
• 44:58
  Speaker 2: was successful in staying for a time time the progress
• 45:01
  Speaker 2: of the encroachment. The operation is this. Along the line
• 45:07
  Speaker 2: where the motion of the current is stayed by the
• 45:08
  Speaker 2: contact with the lake water, a sand bar is formed
• 45:11
  Speaker 2: and the waves soon developed this into a bar rising
• 45:14
  Speaker 2: above the surface, stretching in an easy curve from one
• 45:17
  Speaker 2: side of the bay to the other, thus making an
• 45:19
  Speaker 2: inner bay separate from the lake. The sediment of the
• 45:22
  Speaker 2: river then proceeds to fill up this bay until it
• 45:25
  Speaker 2: is dry land, with possibly a little lake or two
• 45:28
  Speaker 2: left behind. When this is completed, the current is again
• 45:31
  Speaker 2: directed into the lake, another sand bar is formed. The
• 45:35
  Speaker 2: whole process is repeated, and the river has encroached another step.
• 45:39
  Speaker 2: Three such steps are easily recognized by the topography, and
• 45:42
  Speaker 2: the fourth is made probable. The fourth is the earliest
• 45:46
  Speaker 2: and the remnant is found in Spirit Lake. The next
• 45:49
  Speaker 2: in order of time is represented by Grassy Point, the
• 45:52
  Speaker 2: next by Rice's Point, and the last by Minnesota Point.
• 45:58
  Speaker 2: It will be interesting to go into detail for the last,
• 46:00
  Speaker 2: now in progress of development. The bar in this case
• 46:04
  Speaker 2: is called Minnesota Point. It is about five miles long,
• 46:08
  Speaker 2: is from two hundred to twelve hundred feet wide, and
• 46:10
  Speaker 2: sweeps in a free curve from the Minnesota to the
• 46:12
  Speaker 2: Wisconsin shore. It is interrupted for the passage of the river.
• 46:16
  Speaker 2: Close to the Wisconsin shore, its average height is twelve
• 46:20
  Speaker 2: to fifteen feet, but toward the Wisconsin side, the wind
• 46:22
  Speaker 2: has built up a pyramid of from twenty to twenty
• 46:25
  Speaker 2: five feet above the surface of the water. It is
• 46:28
  Speaker 2: made of sand and gravel, is covered with small trees
• 46:31
  Speaker 2: and brush, and is a favorite picnic ground for the
• 46:34
  Speaker 2: citizens of Duluth. Behind it is Superior Bay, about five
• 46:38
  Speaker 2: miles long and one mile wide, and this is the
• 46:41
  Speaker 2: bay which the river is now filling up. To keep
• 46:44
  Speaker 2: it available for commerce requires the constant efforts of the engineers.
• 46:48
  Speaker 2: In order to make accessible to commerce the several interior
• 46:51
  Speaker 2: bays of Duluth, a canal three hundred feet wide was
• 46:54
  Speaker 2: cut through Minnesota point. At the Duluth end, the port
• 46:58
  Speaker 2: of Superior is entered by the natural outlet, the passage
• 47:01
  Speaker 2: maintained by the river. When the canal was cut by Duluth.
• 47:05
  Speaker 2: In order that this city might not obtain too great
• 47:08
  Speaker 2: an advantage over its rival, Superior had a dike erected
• 47:11
  Speaker 2: across Superior Bay on the Duluth side of the mouth
• 47:14
  Speaker 2: of the river. It was expected that the river would
• 47:17
  Speaker 2: not waste its energies on the interests of Duluth, but
• 47:20
  Speaker 2: proceed to scour out the channel for Superior. With that
• 47:24
  Speaker 2: freakiness so characteristic of rivers, perhaps the occasion of our
• 47:28
  Speaker 2: personifying them as she, the stream did what was unexpected
• 47:33
  Speaker 2: and proceeded to fill up the Superior channel. Shortly thereafter,
• 47:37
  Speaker 2: the dike disappeared on a dark night by the aid
• 47:39
  Speaker 2: of explosives. The northwest shore from the Saint Louis to
• 47:44
  Speaker 2: Thunder Bay is very abrupt and rocky, backed for almost
• 47:48
  Speaker 2: half its length by the sawtooth or Devil's Tracks mountains.
• 47:52
  Speaker 2: Along this coast, a distance of two hundred miles, there
• 47:55
  Speaker 2: are only a dozen streams that deserve any better name
• 47:58
  Speaker 2: than creek. These drain a strip along the coast only
• 48:02
  Speaker 2: a few miles wide, while behind them comes the basin
• 48:05
  Speaker 2: of the Saint Louis or that of the Rainy Lake District.
• 48:09
  Speaker 2: These streams are all so small that the heavy surf
• 48:12
  Speaker 2: of the coast succeeds in damming their mouths with lofty beaches,
• 48:15
  Speaker 2: through which the water seeps into Thunder Bay enters the
• 48:20
  Speaker 2: beautiful cheminist Aquia. One hundred fifty miles long, with a
• 48:24
  Speaker 2: basin of seven hundred and fifty square miles, It is
• 48:27
  Speaker 2: a picturesque stream, well known to the French voyageire, for
• 48:31
  Speaker 2: whom it was the usual route from Lake Superior to
• 48:34
  Speaker 2: Winnipeg in the good old times of the undisputed Sway
• 48:37
  Speaker 2: of the fur companies. In its lower course about Fort William,
• 48:41
  Speaker 2: its deep brown waters flow lazily through a broad, flat
• 48:44
  Speaker 2: low delta, which is still growing, and which is bounded
• 48:48
  Speaker 2: by distinct escarpments of flat topped mountains. Higher up, it
• 48:53
  Speaker 2: has numerous rapids, and few streams along which it was
• 48:56
  Speaker 2: the fate of the hardy voyagere to Labor are marked
• 48:59
  Speaker 2: by more numerous portages. The sources are in Lac Teille
• 49:04
  Speaker 2: and Muskeg Lake, from the latter of which it passes
• 49:08
  Speaker 2: as the unpretentious Dog River until Dog Lake is reached.
• 49:12
  Speaker 2: It is only below this lake that it receives the
• 49:14
  Speaker 2: harmonious name of Cheministaquia, meaning that which goes far around
• 49:21
  Speaker 2: at the head of Nippegan Bay and at the extreme
• 49:24
  Speaker 2: northernmost point of Lake Superior, enters the Nipegan River, for
• 49:28
  Speaker 2: which the claim is sometimes seriously made that it is
• 49:31
  Speaker 2: the mother stream of the Saint Lawrence system. The claim
• 49:34
  Speaker 2: is based on the fact that this stream is the
• 49:36
  Speaker 2: outlet of Nippegin Lake, just as the Saint Mary's is
• 49:40
  Speaker 2: of Lake Superior, and that the Great Lakes consists not
• 49:44
  Speaker 2: of five or of six when Saint Clair is included,
• 49:47
  Speaker 2: but of seven, and Nippegan is the seventh and most distant.
• 49:51
  Speaker 2: Nippegan Lake is about forty miles north of Lake Superior
• 49:54
  Speaker 2: and is eight hundred and fifty feet above sea level.
• 49:58
  Speaker 2: Nippegin River, about fifty miles long, has therefore a fall
• 50:01
  Speaker 2: of two hundred and fifty feet. It is a picturesque stream,
• 50:05
  Speaker 2: full of rapids and full of fish. The bay stream
• 50:08
  Speaker 2: and lake which bear the name of Nippegen meeting dirty water,
• 50:12
  Speaker 2: are said to furnish the best fishing in the Lake
• 50:14
  Speaker 2: Superior basin. Lake Nipegan is oval in form, about sixty
• 50:18
  Speaker 2: miles long north and south and fifty miles broad, with
• 50:21
  Speaker 2: a surface area of twenty nine hundred square miles. Its
• 50:25
  Speaker 2: coasts are very much indented, and it contains several hundred
• 50:28
  Speaker 2: islands and islets. The greatest depth so far reported is
• 50:32
  Speaker 2: five hundred and forty feet, which would bring its bottom
• 50:35
  Speaker 2: below that of Lake Erie and only three hundred and
• 50:37
  Speaker 2: ten feet above sea level. The erosion at the outlet
• 50:41
  Speaker 2: is strong, and the fall is reported to be wearing
• 50:44
  Speaker 2: away at the rate of ten feet per century, in
• 50:47
  Speaker 2: which case Lake Nipegen will at no very distant day
• 50:50
  Speaker 2: dwindle two more modest proportions. The lake occupies a small
• 50:54
  Speaker 2: drainage basin, the land area of which hardly surpasses the
• 50:58
  Speaker 2: water area. Its principal fet is on Balika River, which
• 51:03
  Speaker 2: rises in Summit Lake forty or fifty miles to the
• 51:05
  Speaker 2: north of Lake Nippegin. This lake is said to lie
• 51:09
  Speaker 2: on the height of land or watershed between Hudson Bay
• 51:13
  Speaker 2: and the Saint Lawrence Basin, and its waters are reputed
• 51:16
  Speaker 2: to flow both ways, part into Nippegen and part by
• 51:19
  Speaker 2: way of the Albany River into James Bay. There are
• 51:23
  Speaker 2: several other streams on the north shore which are one
• 51:26
  Speaker 2: hundred miles or more long, namely the Pick, the White,
• 51:30
  Speaker 2: and the Magpie. While the Missipiqatin does not fall far
• 51:33
  Speaker 2: below this length. The last mentioned was well known to
• 51:37
  Speaker 2: the voyage are as it was a part of the
• 51:39
  Speaker 2: regular route from Lake Superior to James Bay. At its
• 51:42
  Speaker 2: mouth was the Missipiqatin House, which with Fort William on
• 51:46
  Speaker 2: Thunder Bay, formed trading centers on the north shore a
• 51:49
  Speaker 2: century or more ago, when the Western States were an
• 51:52
  Speaker 2: almost unbroken wilderness. Indeed, the north shore of Lake Superior
• 51:57
  Speaker 2: echoed to the busy hum of a considerable commerce a
• 52:00
  Speaker 2: century before the Sawshore began to attract attention. The history
• 52:04
  Speaker 2: of these two old stations of the Hudson's Bay Company
• 52:07
  Speaker 2: goes back to a time so distant that Agassiz's visit
• 52:11
  Speaker 2: to Lake Superior in eighteen forty eight is a relatively
• 52:14
  Speaker 2: recent event.
• 52:17
  Speaker 3: And of Section two, Section three of the National Geographic Magazine,
• 52:28
  Speaker 3: Volume eighth, April eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording.
• 52:34
  Speaker 3: All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more
• 52:38
  Speaker 3: information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording
• 52:43
  Speaker 3: by Abay in November twenty seventeen. The Siberian Transcontinental Railroad
• 52:51
  Speaker 3: by General A. W. Greeley, Chief Signal Officer, United States Army,
• 52:59
  Speaker 3: recent from the East point to the early completion of
• 53:02
  Speaker 3: the Great Siberian Railroad, which will be the next strong
• 53:06
  Speaker 3: link to bind indissolubly together the commercial interests of the world.
• 53:11
  Speaker 3: It therefore seems an opportune moment to present to the
• 53:14
  Speaker 3: readers of the National Geographic Magazine a resume of the
• 53:18
  Speaker 3: advices lately forwarded to the Department of State by our
• 53:22
  Speaker 3: consular officials, Messrs Carroll, Monnigan and Stefan. The Russian budget
• 53:29
  Speaker 3: for eighteen ninety seven assigns sixty five million rubles to
• 53:33
  Speaker 3: the continuation of the Trans Siberian Railway, and its operating
• 53:37
  Speaker 3: will be an event scarcely less important than the completion
• 53:41
  Speaker 3: of the Suez Canal. Five thousand miles of steel rails
• 53:45
  Speaker 3: have been laid already at a cost of three hundred
• 53:48
  Speaker 3: fifty million rubles, and in eighteen ninety eight trains are
• 53:52
  Speaker 3: to run to the Armor River. Passengers, post parcels and
• 53:57
  Speaker 3: freight will be pushed on by fast steamer to Chaborovka
• 54:01
  Speaker 3: and thence over the South Russian section of the Siberian
• 54:04
  Speaker 3: Road to Vladivostok, making the distance from London to the
• 54:08
  Speaker 3: Japan Sea in seventeen and a half days. After the
• 54:13
  Speaker 3: first few years, when high rates of speed across Siberia
• 54:17
  Speaker 3: are attainable, the trip will be made in nine days.
• 54:22
  Speaker 3: Travelers to and from the East will prefer to make
• 54:25
  Speaker 3: the journey in eleven days overland to making it as
• 54:28
  Speaker 3: now overseas in thirty days. Tickets from Warsaw to Vladivostok
• 54:34
  Speaker 3: are to cost only one hundred twenty rubles. First class
• 54:39
  Speaker 3: from London to Warsaw costs now one hundred fifty marks
• 54:43
  Speaker 3: thirty five dollars seventy cents. The ticket from London to
• 54:47
  Speaker 3: Vladivostock is to cost about five hundred marks one hundred
• 54:51
  Speaker 3: nineteen dollars. First class. Second class is to cost considerably less.
• 54:57
  Speaker 3: A ticket to Japan today via Brindisi and Suez costs
• 55:02
  Speaker 3: one thousand, eight hundred marks four hundred twenty eight dollars.
• 55:08
  Speaker 3: That the world is so soon to enjoy transatlantic travel
• 55:11
  Speaker 3: is due to the energetic and successful negotiations of Russian
• 55:15
  Speaker 3: diplomats with the Chinese government. At the beginning of the work,
• 55:19
  Speaker 3: the trans Baikal and Armor Section was planned to extend
• 55:23
  Speaker 3: from Chita through Threttensk to Prokovskaya, thence along the River
• 55:29
  Speaker 3: Armour to Kabarovsk to join the Yusuri Railroad running south
• 55:34
  Speaker 3: to Vladivostok. The construction of this line involved such technical
• 55:39
  Speaker 3: difficulties as would greatly increase the cost of the undertaking.
• 55:44
  Speaker 3: On investigation, it was found that building through Manchuria would
• 55:48
  Speaker 3: not only cheapen and shorten the construction of the road,
• 55:51
  Speaker 3: but would present other advantages. Negotiations were begun and the
• 55:56
  Speaker 3: Chinese government granted a concession the east. Then Chinese Railway
• 56:01
  Speaker 3: Company was formed to construct and to operate the railway.
• 56:05
  Speaker 3: The articles of Association were sanctioned by the Tsar and
• 56:09
  Speaker 3: an Imperial ordinance was issued in December eighteen ninety six.
• 56:15
  Speaker 3: The association, organized under the Convention of August twenty seven,
• 56:19
  Speaker 3: eighteen ninety six, by the Chinese government with the Russou
• 56:23
  Speaker 3: Chinese Government Bank, is to construct and operate a railroad
• 56:27
  Speaker 3: from the western frontier of the province of Halong Chang
• 56:31
  Speaker 3: to the eastern frontier of Kirin, which is to connect
• 56:35
  Speaker 3: with the Trans Siberian Railway. The company may, with the
• 56:39
  Speaker 3: permission of the Chinese government, engage in coal and other mining,
• 56:44
  Speaker 3: industrial and commercial enterprises in China. The Russau Chinese Bank
• 56:50
  Speaker 3: takes upon itself the duty of organizing this company, which
• 56:54
  Speaker 3: acquires the rights and duties granted by the above mentioned convention.
• 56:59
  Speaker 3: Sh be held only by Russian and Chinese subjects, and
• 57:03
  Speaker 3: the company will own the Chinese Eastern Railway during eighty
• 57:07
  Speaker 3: years after the opening of the whole line. The Russian
• 57:12
  Speaker 3: government guarantees the resources of the company to the extent
• 57:15
  Speaker 3: of making obligatory the payment of shares. The company takes
• 57:20
  Speaker 3: upon itself on the part of the Russian government the
• 57:22
  Speaker 3: following obligations. One, the Chinese Eastern Railway must be always
• 57:29
  Speaker 3: kept in full order to satisfy all the requirements in
• 57:32
  Speaker 3: relation to safety, convenience and movement of passengers and frets. Two,
• 57:39
  Speaker 3: the traffic on the Chinese Eastern Railway to be kept
• 57:42
  Speaker 3: up in conformity with the traffic on the connecting Russian railroads. Three,
• 57:47
  Speaker 3: all trains of the Russian Trans Baikal and Usuri Railroads
• 57:51
  Speaker 3: are to be met and forwarded without delay. Four, the
• 57:56
  Speaker 3: company must transmit with speed not less than that used
• 58:00
  Speaker 3: on the Siberian Railway all passenger and freight trains in
• 58:04
  Speaker 3: direct communication. Five. The company binds itself to construct along
• 58:11
  Speaker 3: its road a telegraph line connecting with the telegraph lines
• 58:15
  Speaker 3: of the Russian railroads, and to promptly receive and send
• 58:18
  Speaker 3: through dispatches to and from Russia and China. Six. If
• 58:25
  Speaker 3: its technical arrangements shall not insure uninterrupted traffic of passengers
• 58:29
  Speaker 3: and freights, then, as the Russian Railways require, the Chinese
• 58:34
  Speaker 3: Eastern Railway must take suitable measures to improve its technical arrangements.
• 58:39
  Speaker 3: In case of misunderstandings, the Chinese Eastern Railway agrees to
• 58:44
  Speaker 3: submit to the decision of the Russian Minister of Finance.
• 58:48
  Speaker 3: If the means of the Chinese Eastern Railway shall not
• 58:51
  Speaker 3: be sufficient to carry out the necessary improvements, the road
• 58:54
  Speaker 3: can apply for pecuniary assistance to the Russian Minister of Finance. Seven.
• 59:02
  Speaker 3: Maximum passenger, freight and telegraph tariffs shall be established by
• 59:06
  Speaker 3: agreement between the company and the Russian government, which cannot
• 59:10
  Speaker 3: be raised during the whole period of the concession without
• 59:14
  Speaker 3: the consent of the Russian government. Eight Russian mail packages
• 59:19
  Speaker 3: and officials accompanying the same are to be carried free
• 59:23
  Speaker 3: of charge. For this purpose, the company assigns to each
• 59:27
  Speaker 3: passenger train a part of one car. The Russian Post
• 59:31
  Speaker 3: Office Department may furnish postcars constructed at its own expense,
• 59:36
  Speaker 3: but the repairing, keeping and switching of them must be
• 59:39
  Speaker 3: done by the railway company free of charge. After the
• 59:43
  Speaker 3: eighty years concession has expired, the road will pass free
• 59:47
  Speaker 3: to the Chinese government. A sale of the railway does
• 59:51
  Speaker 3: not in any way change the obligations. The following rights
• 59:57
  Speaker 3: are given by the Chinese government to the railroad company
• 1:00:01
  Speaker 3: on the passenger Baggage and merchandise in transit from one
• 1:00:05
  Speaker 3: Russian station to another are exempt from all Chinese customs, duties,
• 1:00:10
  Speaker 3: interior taxes and revenues. S two. The tariffs for passengers, freights, telegraphs,
• 1:00:18
  Speaker 3: et cetera, are to be free from all Chinese dues
• 1:00:21
  Speaker 3: and taxes. SE three. Merchandise imported and exported to and
• 1:00:27
  Speaker 3: from China and Russia will pay one third less than
• 1:00:31
  Speaker 3: the regular export and import Chinese duty paid at Chinese
• 1:00:36
  Speaker 3: sea custom houses. SE four. Goods imported by rail for
• 1:00:41
  Speaker 3: the interior shall pay transit duty to the amount of
• 1:00:45
  Speaker 3: one half of the import duty and are free from
• 1:00:48
  Speaker 3: additional duties. The company is at liberty to buy its
• 1:00:54
  Speaker 3: construction materials wherever it sees fit, and materials not purchased
• 1:00:58
  Speaker 3: in Russia will be free from Russian customs duties. The
• 1:01:02
  Speaker 3: stock capital is fixed at five million paper rubles two million,
• 1:01:07
  Speaker 3: five hundred seventy thousand dollars and is divided into one
• 1:01:11
  Speaker 3: thousand shares issued at par The Russian government does not
• 1:01:16
  Speaker 3: guarantee these shares. Bonds will be issued in proportion to
• 1:01:21
  Speaker 3: requirements subject to the approval of the Russian Minister of Finance.
• 1:01:26
  Speaker 3: The income and liquidation of these bonds will be guaranteed
• 1:01:29
  Speaker 3: by the Russian government. The company is to begin work
• 1:01:34
  Speaker 3: in August eighteen ninety seven, and the line is to
• 1:01:37
  Speaker 3: be completed in six years. The new line will begin
• 1:01:41
  Speaker 3: at on on the trans Baikal Railroad, cross the frontier
• 1:01:45
  Speaker 3: near Staro zurukhit Run in Manchuria, towards the towns of Chikikar, Titikar,
• 1:01:53
  Speaker 3: kulan Chen and nin Tu and connect with the Nilosk
• 1:01:58
  Speaker 3: station of the South Usuri Ri rail Road. The total
• 1:02:01
  Speaker 3: length of the Manchuria railway will be one thousand, nine
• 1:02:05
  Speaker 3: hundred twenty versts one thousand, two hundred seventy three miles,
• 1:02:09
  Speaker 3: of which one thousand, four hundred twenty five vasts nine
• 1:02:13
  Speaker 3: hundred forty five miles will be in Chinese territory. According
• 1:02:19
  Speaker 3: to the original survey of the Siberian Line, the course
• 1:02:22
  Speaker 3: through Manchuria will shorten the Siberian railroad five hundred fourteen
• 1:02:27
  Speaker 3: versts three hundred forty one miles. The Manchuria line traverses
• 1:02:32
  Speaker 3: a country of better climate and more productive soil. The
• 1:02:36
  Speaker 3: fruitful valley of the Sungari supplies the Armur region with bread,
• 1:02:41
  Speaker 3: and northern Manchuria possesses natural wealth to some extent already
• 1:02:45
  Speaker 3: worked in a recent number of Yabuchifernationial Ukonomi un statistic,
• 1:02:53
  Speaker 3: there appeared an article by doctor Ballot concerning the importance
• 1:02:57
  Speaker 3: of the husbandry of Siberia. He arrives at the conclusion
• 1:03:01
  Speaker 3: that a Siberian railway will at first only open up
• 1:03:05
  Speaker 3: the country for the export of the more valuable classes
• 1:03:08
  Speaker 3: of goods and facilitate wholesale immigration. It will be of
• 1:03:13
  Speaker 3: enormous importance as a transit route for goods of high
• 1:03:16
  Speaker 3: value from China and Japan, and also for passenger traffic
• 1:03:20
  Speaker 3: from and to these countries. But it will be serviceable
• 1:03:23
  Speaker 3: to the development of grain export only in a very
• 1:03:27
  Speaker 3: limited degree. Careful estimates of production and freights convince him
• 1:03:32
  Speaker 3: that an increased input of grain cannot be expected so
• 1:03:36
  Speaker 3: long as low prices rule. It would be necessary for
• 1:03:39
  Speaker 3: the Siberian peasant to export at a lower price than
• 1:03:43
  Speaker 3: has hitherto been paid for his grain in the home markets.
• 1:03:47
  Speaker 3: Should prices rise, materially, profitable cultivation of wheat in Middle
• 1:03:51
  Speaker 3: Siberia would become a possibility, and this would probably bring
• 1:03:55
  Speaker 3: about an important increase in exports. End of section three.
• 1:04:07
  Speaker 4: Section four of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight, April
• 1:04:12
  Speaker 4: eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 1:04:17
  Speaker 4: recordings are in the public domain. For more information or
• 1:04:21
  Speaker 4: to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B.
• 1:04:27
  Speaker 4: Geographic Literature Glaciers of North America. A reading lesson for
• 1:04:34
  Speaker 4: students of geography and Geology by Israel C. Russell, Professor
• 1:04:39
  Speaker 4: of Geology in the University of Michigan. Page's Roman Numeral
• 1:04:44
  Speaker 4: ten plus two hundred ten, with maps and illustrations, Boston,
• 1:04:49
  Speaker 4: Gin and Company, eighteen ninety seven a dollar ninety. Professor
• 1:04:55
  Speaker 4: Russell's preferatory to the reader is a stalwart message strang
• 1:05:00
  Speaker 4: Range as it may appear, He says, in the face
• 1:05:02
  Speaker 4: of the overshadowing popular interest that centers in the glaciers
• 1:05:06
  Speaker 4: of the Alps, North America offers more favorable conditions for
• 1:05:11
  Speaker 4: the study of existing glaciers and of the records of
• 1:05:14
  Speaker 4: ancient ice sheets than any other continent. For in North America,
• 1:05:18
  Speaker 4: the three great types of glacier Alpine, Piedmont, and continental
• 1:05:24
  Speaker 4: are magnificently exemplified, while the glaciers of other continents, save
• 1:05:29
  Speaker 4: little known Antarctica, are limited to the poor little Alpine type.
• 1:05:35
  Speaker 4: The type specimen of the Piedmont glacier is the Malaspina
• 1:05:39
  Speaker 4: ice Sheet of Alaska, while the type for the vast
• 1:05:42
  Speaker 4: continental glaciers of the ice Age is found in Greenland.
• 1:05:46
  Speaker 4: The magnificence of the field for glacial study in North
• 1:05:49
  Speaker 4: America has only been appreciated within recent years, and is
• 1:05:54
  Speaker 4: still unrecognized outside of a limited circle of special students.
• 1:05:59
  Speaker 4: The recognition must extend under this forcible presentation A student
• 1:06:05
  Speaker 4: of the European Alps and the Southern Alps of New Zealand,
• 1:06:09
  Speaker 4: both famed for glaciers, the explorer of several glaciers of
• 1:06:12
  Speaker 4: the High Sierra, the discoverer of Malaspina Glacier, and the
• 1:06:17
  Speaker 4: sole student of the ice fields high on the slopes
• 1:06:20
  Speaker 4: of Mount Saint Elias. An experienced investigator of the glacial
• 1:06:24
  Speaker 4: deposits and glacial history of United States from Atlantic to Pacific,
• 1:06:30
  Speaker 4: Professor Russell is well qualified to prepare a reading lesson
• 1:06:34
  Speaker 4: on glaciers, and his experience crops out between the lines
• 1:06:38
  Speaker 4: on every page. Perhaps half of his admirable pictures are
• 1:06:43
  Speaker 4: from photographs of his own making. And although the pronoun
• 1:06:46
  Speaker 4: in the first person seldom appears, a third or a
• 1:06:50
  Speaker 4: half of the descriptive paragraphs, and these make up most
• 1:06:54
  Speaker 4: of the book, represent personal work. Thus the chapters have
• 1:06:58
  Speaker 4: an attractive air of freshness and realness. This strong personal element,
• 1:07:03
  Speaker 4: which gives the treatise its greatest value, has apparently affected
• 1:07:07
  Speaker 4: the arrangement of contents, giving the work the form of
• 1:07:11
  Speaker 4: a narrative rather than the symmetry of a monograph. The
• 1:07:16
  Speaker 4: first chapter is an introduction in which definitions and general
• 1:07:20
  Speaker 4: features are set forth. After enumerting the leading characteristics of glaciers,
• 1:07:26
  Speaker 4: the author proceeds thus to answer the question what is
• 1:07:30
  Speaker 4: a glacier. As a provisional definition, it may be said
• 1:07:34
  Speaker 4: that a glacier is an ice body originating from the
• 1:07:37
  Speaker 4: consolidation of snow in regions where secular accumulation exceeds melting
• 1:07:44
  Speaker 4: and evaporation i e. Above the snow line, and flowing
• 1:07:49
  Speaker 4: to regions where waste exceeds supply i e. Below the
• 1:07:53
  Speaker 4: snow line. Page sixteen. He then describes glacial abrasion, smoothed
• 1:07:59
  Speaker 4: and stride in surfaces not produced by glaciers, special features
• 1:08:04
  Speaker 4: of glaciated surfaces, glacial deposits, glacial sediments, and changes in
• 1:08:10
  Speaker 4: topography produced by glaciers, all with less repetition and treatment
• 1:08:15
  Speaker 4: than in titles. The second chapter relates to the general
• 1:08:19
  Speaker 4: distribution of the glaciers of North America, and then follow
• 1:08:23
  Speaker 4: five chapters devoted respectively to the glaciers of the Sierra Nevada,
• 1:08:28
  Speaker 4: the glaciers of Northern California and the Cascade Mountains, the
• 1:08:32
  Speaker 4: glaciers of Canada, the glaciers of Alaska, and the glaciers
• 1:08:36
  Speaker 4: in the Greenland region. These chapters, containing more than half
• 1:08:40
  Speaker 4: the volume and most of the value of the book.
• 1:08:44
  Speaker 4: There is a chapter on the climatic changes indicated by
• 1:08:47
  Speaker 4: the glaciers of the Ice Age, and another on the
• 1:08:50
  Speaker 4: movement of glaciers, while the tenth and last chapter is
• 1:08:54
  Speaker 4: a suggestive and attractive discussion of the life history of
• 1:08:58
  Speaker 4: a glacier, in which the suse, extended observations and reflections of
• 1:09:03
  Speaker 4: the author are summarized. The strong points of the work
• 1:09:07
  Speaker 4: are its vividness and trustworthiness. The arrangement might have been improved,
• 1:09:12
  Speaker 4: a few trifling errors in the orthography of names might
• 1:09:15
  Speaker 4: have been corrected, and the general scientific discussion might have
• 1:09:19
  Speaker 4: been strengthened. But teachers and others are to be congratulated
• 1:09:23
  Speaker 4: on having at last, and for the first a thoroughly
• 1:09:27
  Speaker 4: reliable popular account of the glaciers of North America. W
• 1:09:33
  Speaker 4: j M. A Treatise on Rocks, rock weathering and Soils
• 1:09:38
  Speaker 4: by George P. Merrill, Curator of Geology in the National Museum,
• 1:09:42
  Speaker 4: et cetera. Page's Roman numeral twenty plus four hundred eleven
• 1:09:47
  Speaker 4: with numerous illustrations, New York, The McMillan Company, eighteen ninety seven,
• 1:09:53
  Speaker 4: four dollars net. During the present generation, a score of
• 1:09:58
  Speaker 4: students in this and other countries have turned attention to
• 1:10:02
  Speaker 4: the soil, And while it may be questioned whether they
• 1:10:05
  Speaker 4: have yet succeeded in organizing a science of the soil,
• 1:10:09
  Speaker 4: it may be affirmed that they have made substantial contributions
• 1:10:13
  Speaker 4: towards such as science. Hitherto, most of the publications pertaining
• 1:10:18
  Speaker 4: to the subject have been technical or at least special,
• 1:10:22
  Speaker 4: and confined to official documents. But now comes Professor Merrill,
• 1:10:27
  Speaker 4: already favorably known through professorial work and general writing, with
• 1:10:32
  Speaker 4: a popular work on soils, adapted to both class work
• 1:10:37
  Speaker 4: and general reading. His apology for the publication, it is
• 1:10:41
  Speaker 4: believed that no apology is necessary, even in the stay
• 1:10:45
  Speaker 4: of many books for bringing out the present work emphasizes
• 1:10:49
  Speaker 4: the importance of the subject. Human life in the ancillary
• 1:10:54
  Speaker 4: animal and vegetal life of the land depends on the soil.
• 1:10:59
  Speaker 4: The fullness of the earth, Earth is its wealth in soil,
• 1:11:02
  Speaker 4: and the worthiest science, albeit in very infancy. Yet is
• 1:11:06
  Speaker 4: that pertaining to this richest of all natural resources. Every student,
• 1:11:11
  Speaker 4: every teacher, every citizen, every statesman ought to welcome such
• 1:11:15
  Speaker 4: a contribution to human progress as this useful treatise. The
• 1:11:20
  Speaker 4: work is arranged in five parts, each divided into several
• 1:11:24
  Speaker 4: chapter lots. In the first part, rocks are discussed as
• 1:11:28
  Speaker 4: to their constituents, their physical and chemical properties, and their
• 1:11:33
  Speaker 4: modes of occurrence, and in the second they are classified
• 1:11:36
  Speaker 4: as one igneous, two aqueous, three aeolian, and four metamorphic. Thus,
• 1:11:43
  Speaker 4: this part of the work deals with rock making and
• 1:11:46
  Speaker 4: sets forth the laws involved in the development of the
• 1:11:49
  Speaker 4: fundamental constituents of the external Earth. The next two parts
• 1:11:54
  Speaker 4: are devoted respectively to the weathering of rocks and to
• 1:11:57
  Speaker 4: the transportation and redisposed uzition of rock debris, and in
• 1:12:02
  Speaker 4: them the unmaking and remaking of rocks are admirably though
• 1:12:06
  Speaker 4: briefly expounded. Part five, in which the originality of the
• 1:12:11
  Speaker 4: work is concentrated, is entitled the regolith. Under this new term,
• 1:12:16
  Speaker 4: derived from Greek words for blanket and stone, the unconsolidated
• 1:12:21
  Speaker 4: material mantling the hard rocks is discussed in detail. The
• 1:12:26
  Speaker 4: warrant for introducing a new word for the soils, subsoils,
• 1:12:30
  Speaker 4: and other superficial materials of the Earth arises in daily need.
• 1:12:35
  Speaker 4: Several terms have already been employed soil, earth, et cetera.
• 1:12:39
  Speaker 4: In general, drift, deluvium, alluvium, et cetera for transported material,
• 1:12:46
  Speaker 4: and residua terra rosa, grouse, geest saprodite, et cetera for
• 1:12:53
  Speaker 4: the products of rock decay among laymen and scholars, but
• 1:12:57
  Speaker 4: none has thus far proved satisfactory. Maural suggestion is better
• 1:13:02
  Speaker 4: than any that has gone before, but it remains to
• 1:13:05
  Speaker 4: be seen whether his term will survive or fall into
• 1:13:08
  Speaker 4: the ever yawning grave of death. Suetude. The author proceeds
• 1:13:13
  Speaker 4: to classify the regolith as one sedentary and two transported.
• 1:13:18
  Speaker 4: The former is subclassed as A residual deposits and B
• 1:13:23
  Speaker 4: cumulose deposits, while the latter is divided into A colluvial deposits,
• 1:13:29
  Speaker 4: B alluvial deposits, C aolian deposits, and D glacial deposits.
• 1:13:35
  Speaker 4: In addition, the soil proper is described as a product
• 1:13:39
  Speaker 4: rather than a deposit with respect to chemical composition, mineral constitution,
• 1:13:45
  Speaker 4: and physical condition, as well as with respect to weight, color,
• 1:13:51
  Speaker 4: end age. The great complexity of the soil is adequately recognized,
• 1:13:57
  Speaker 4: and the multifarious interactions between the chemical, physical, and vital
• 1:14:02
  Speaker 4: by which the soil is produced and modified are set
• 1:14:06
  Speaker 4: forth appreciatively in treatment as in subject, Professor Merrill's work
• 1:14:12
  Speaker 4: is notable. It is strictly up to date, embracing the
• 1:14:15
  Speaker 4: results of the latest researches and duly recognizing the work
• 1:14:19
  Speaker 4: of contemporary investigators. Also, it is made admirable mechanically by
• 1:14:25
  Speaker 4: clear topography, good paper, excellent illustrations, many of them photo
• 1:14:31
  Speaker 4: mechanical reproductions, and a full index. WJM end of section four,
• 1:14:46
  Speaker 4: Section five of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight, April
• 1:14:51
  Speaker 4: eighteen ninety seven. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox
• 1:14:55
  Speaker 4: recordings are in the public domain. From more information or
• 1:14:59
  Speaker 4: to volunteers, please visit LibriVox dot org. Recording by Betty B.
• 1:15:05
  Speaker 4: Geographic Serials. The Geographical Journal for March opens with the
• 1:15:11
  Speaker 4: minutes of the Nansen meeting in London. Messrs Munroe and
• 1:15:15
  Speaker 4: Anthony continue the narrative of their explorations. In Magia, Doctor
• 1:15:20
  Speaker 4: Dawson summarizes the progress of the geographical work of the
• 1:15:25
  Speaker 4: Geological Survey of Canada for the past year. Mister Vaughan
• 1:15:29
  Speaker 4: Cornish furnishes an exhaustive article on the formation of sand dunes,
• 1:15:35
  Speaker 4: and Professor Leo Rhinish an article on Egypt and Abyssinia.
• 1:15:41
  Speaker 4: The Scottish Geographical magazine for March opens with an article
• 1:15:45
  Speaker 4: entitled Cape Jubi by mister Fred s Zaytun, which contains
• 1:15:50
  Speaker 4: a quite full description of the northwestern part of the Sahara.
• 1:15:55
  Speaker 4: Mister John Murray has an article on the Balfour Shoal,
• 1:15:59
  Speaker 4: a submarine formation in the Coral Sea in the southwestern Pacific.
• 1:16:04
  Speaker 4: This is accompanied by a chart and profile showing temperatures
• 1:16:08
  Speaker 4: of the sea water. The Nansen expedition receives further notice
• 1:16:12
  Speaker 4: in the form of a review of doctor Nansen's book.
• 1:16:16
  Speaker 4: The Royal Colonial Institute of London is an organization for
• 1:16:20
  Speaker 4: the increase and diffusion of knowledge relating to Great Britain
• 1:16:25
  Speaker 4: and her dependencies. Its purpose, as stated in its bylaws,
• 1:16:29
  Speaker 4: is to provide a place of meeting for all gentlemen
• 1:16:33
  Speaker 4: connected with the Colonies and British India and others taking
• 1:16:36
  Speaker 4: an interest in Colonial and Indian affairs. To establish a
• 1:16:41
  Speaker 4: reading room and library in which recent and authentic intelligence
• 1:16:45
  Speaker 4: upon Colonial and Indian subjects may be constantly available, and
• 1:16:50
  Speaker 4: a museum for the collection an exhibition of colonial and
• 1:16:54
  Speaker 4: Indian productions, to facilitate interchange of experiences among persons representing
• 1:17:01
  Speaker 4: all the dependencies of Great Britain, to afford opportunity for
• 1:17:05
  Speaker 4: the reading of papers and for holding discussions upon colonial
• 1:17:09
  Speaker 4: and Indian subjects generally, and to undertake scientific, literary and
• 1:17:14
  Speaker 4: statistical investigations in connection with the British Empire. The Institute
• 1:17:20
  Speaker 4: publishes a journal which has already reached its twenty eighth volume,
• 1:17:24
  Speaker 4: the first four numbers of which have been issued. The
• 1:17:27
  Speaker 4: character of its work may perhaps be illustrated by an
• 1:17:31
  Speaker 4: enumeration of the principal papers contained in these recent numbers
• 1:17:36
  Speaker 4: of the journal. Part one contains inter British Trade by
• 1:17:40
  Speaker 4: mister John Lowells and the Colony of Victoria some of
• 1:17:44
  Speaker 4: its Industries by E. Jerome Dyer. Part two contains an
• 1:17:49
  Speaker 4: article by Sir Henry H. Johnston entitled England's Work in
• 1:17:53
  Speaker 4: Central Africa, in which the recent progress of civilization in
• 1:17:58
  Speaker 4: Great Britain's share of that continent is admirably summarized. Mister
• 1:18:04
  Speaker 4: e Berney Young has an article entitled The Colonial Producer.
• 1:18:09
  Speaker 4: Part three contains an article by Sir Sidney Shippard on
• 1:18:12
  Speaker 4: the administration of justice in South Africa, and one entitled
• 1:18:17
  Speaker 4: Cyprus and its Possibilities by Charles Christian. Part four pictures
• 1:18:22
  Speaker 4: the economic condition of Australia at the present time, under
• 1:18:26
  Speaker 4: the title Studies in Australia in eighteen ninety six by
• 1:18:31
  Speaker 4: the Honorable T. A. Brassey h g end of Section five,
• 1:18:39
  Speaker 4: end of the National Geographic Magazine, Volume eight, April eighteen
• 1:18:44
  Speaker 4: ninety seven.