Latest / The Science of Skin / Skin Science Breakthroughs: Vitamin C Serums, Scalp Health, SPF 100 & the Future of Anti-Aging Skincare — Live from AAD 2024

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Skin Science Breakthroughs: Vitamin C Serums, Scalp Health, SPF 100 & the Future of Anti-Aging Skincare — Live from AAD 2024 · The Science of Skin

• 0:00
  SPEAKER_00: This episode is sponsored by Neutrogena.
• 0:02
  SPEAKER_00: For over 90 years, Neutrogena has advanced skin health for all skin types.
• 0:07
  SPEAKER_00: Our secret formulation expertise that blends scientifically proven ingredients with innovative technology.
• 0:13
  SPEAKER_00: Maximum efficacy with unparalleled aesthetics.
• 0:16
  SPEAKER_00: That's beauty to a science.
• 0:26
  SPEAKER_01: Hi, I'm Dr.
• 0:27
  SPEAKER_01: Patty Ferris, and I'm joined today by my co-host, Dr.
• 0:30
  SPEAKER_01: Ted Lane, for this episode of the Science of Skin Podcast.
• 0:34
  SPEAKER_01: Welcome.
• 0:35
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 0:35
  SPEAKER_01: We are super excited.
• 0:37
  SPEAKER_01: We're here coming live from the American Academy of Dermatology.
• 0:40
  SPEAKER_01: We're in Denver, where it's 80 degrees.
• 0:42
  SPEAKER_01: I'm not sure about that.
• 0:44
  SPEAKER_01: But we are really excited about this episode.
• 0:47
  SPEAKER_01: It's sponsored by Neutrogen, and we're going to talk about a subject that Ted and I are both very enthusiastic about, and that is innovations in skincare.
• 0:55
  SPEAKER_01: And of course, these innovations are going to be innovations coming from Neutrogena.
• 0:59
  SPEAKER_01: And in case you've underestimated the science behind these ingredients and it behind these formulations, you will be impressed.
• 1:06
  SPEAKER_01: There's so much information here.
• 1:08
  SPEAKER_01: We had to get notes.
• 1:09
  SPEAKER_02: Well, it's day four of the academy.
• 1:11
  SPEAKER_02: And uh I am remembering.
• 1:14
  SPEAKER_02: It's so true.
• 1:15
  SPEAKER_02: All right.
• 1:16
  SPEAKER_02: Well, let's jump into it, Patty.
• 1:17
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, the first product we're going to talk about.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_02: Love this.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_02: I knew you'd love this.
• 1:21
  SPEAKER_02: This is the Neutrogena Collagen Bank.
• 1:24
  SPEAKER_02: Well, we know about Collagen Bank, right?
• 1:26
  SPEAKER_02: But this is the 15% vitamin C serum.
• 1:29
  SPEAKER_01: If you were going to make a line extender for most fabulous line, which is collagen bank, it would be this product.
• 1:34
  SPEAKER_01: Now I'm going to tell everybody what it is.
• 1:36
  SPEAKER_01: This is 15% Loscorbic acid.
• 1:39
  SPEAKER_01: I am a huge fan of Luscorbic acid.
• 1:42
  SPEAKER_01: Loscorbic acid is the active form of vitamin C in the cell.
• 1:46
  SPEAKER_01: It is a water-soluble vitamin.
• 1:48
  SPEAKER_01: And this, in my opinion, is the only form of vitamin C, personal opinion, of course.
• 1:53
  SPEAKER_01: It also has 2% polyhydroxy acid, gluconolactone, which is an amazing ingredient, exfoliates, hydrates, incredible ingredient.
• 2:02
  SPEAKER_01: And then we also have the microdipeptide, another one of my very favorites.
• 2:06
  SPEAKER_01: This is a small peptide that can penetrate the stratum pornium, goes nicely into the skin.
• 2:11
  SPEAKER_01: It's an anti-inflammatory peptide, as well as boosts five different extracellular matrix components: collagen, hyaluronic acid.
• 2:20
  SPEAKER_01: Can we get them all?
• 2:20
  SPEAKER_01: Decorin, fibronectin.
• 2:23
  SPEAKER_01: And there's another one.
• 2:24
  SPEAKER_01: There's another one.
• 2:26
  SPEAKER_01: It's in the notes, which is there.
• 2:27
  SPEAKER_01: We're going to have to find it, and we will.
• 2:29
  SPEAKER_01: But this is an incredible ingredient.
• 2:30
  SPEAKER_01: So three ingredients in this vitamin C serum.
• 2:33
  SPEAKER_01: And I know Ted loves this product too.
• 2:34
  SPEAKER_02: Well, I do.
• 2:35
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we just need to realize how difficult it is to formulate with pure L-ascorbic acid.
• 2:42
  SPEAKER_02: As you mentioned, it's hydrophilic and it is a fickle girl, right?
• 2:47
  SPEAKER_02: You can't formulate it with many other ingredients.
• 2:49
  SPEAKER_01: No, and I call it it's fussy molecule.
• 2:51
  SPEAKER_02: Fussy must be very fussy.
• 2:53
  SPEAKER_02: I love it.
• 2:53
  SPEAKER_02: Very fussy.
• 2:54
  SPEAKER_02: So she's fussy.
• 2:55
  SPEAKER_02: And with that, we were able to, well, not I I wish I could take credit for it.
• 3:00
  SPEAKER_02: Neutrogeno was able to formulate it, as we just talked about, with the 2% polyhydroxy acid.
• 3:05
  SPEAKER_02: If you think about it, it's a bit of an exfoliator, as Dr.
• 3:08
  SPEAKER_02: Farish just said.
• 3:09
  SPEAKER_02: And so it allows, in my view, maybe we're getting a little bit better better penetration because of that.
• 3:14
  SPEAKER_02: And then the diacebel peptide is such a great ingredient that is kind of coursing through the collagen bank uh regimen.
• 3:23
  SPEAKER_02: And the fact that it does so much with just such a small peptide, small peptides in dermatology are having a moment.
• 3:30
  SPEAKER_02: And so this one at 200 plus kilodol, it's so small that we know that it penetrates.
• 3:37
  SPEAKER_02: So I really think that this formulation is an advancement in vitamin C technology.
• 3:43
  SPEAKER_01: Agree.
• 3:44
  SPEAKER_01: Agree 100%.
• 3:45
  SPEAKER_01: I think we should call out the microdipeptide because this was an innovation from this Neutrogen 18 for which they won an award.
• 3:53
  SPEAKER_01: And they have been gotten lots of accolades on this.
• 3:56
  SPEAKER_01: It's very unusual to get a truly novel molecule in the cosmaceutical industry, as you know.
• 4:01
  SPEAKER_01: And so that's why I'm so high on this one.
• 4:03
  SPEAKER_01: It's an incredible ingredient.
• 4:05
  SPEAKER_02: Well, and Patty, they've shown that only not only does it do what the, you know, increases the glycosamid glycans and the collagen, and it does everything that the diacyl peptide we know should do.
• 4:15
  SPEAKER_02: But the vitamin C is so important because it does help lighten and brighten the skin, for example.
• 4:21
  SPEAKER_02: And so if you have uh an acne patient, if you have postacne marks, or if you just have some sunspots, for example, or photodamage, this is a great product.
• 4:31
  SPEAKER_02: So the collagen bank regimen is really meant for those younger patients.
• 4:34
  SPEAKER_02: I I think maybe 18 to 30 plus years of age, where we're trying to bank their gollageton, you know, we're trying to give them ingredients which really helps preserve what their skin has made before we start seeing a lot of the aging process.
• 4:49
  SPEAKER_02: That's where the diacetal peptide comes in.
• 4:51
  SPEAKER_02: And absolutely these antioxidants, such as that 15% aloscorbic acid, is so important.
• 4:57
  SPEAKER_02: It is a foundational ingredient for any regimen.
• 4:59
  SPEAKER_01: It is.
• 4:59
  SPEAKER_01: And I also love the fact that in this demographics, the pre-aging group, they're using a little extra vitamin C to give them some more sun protection.
• 5:08
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 5:08
  SPEAKER_01: So I love that.
• 5:09
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 5:09
  SPEAKER_01: I love that about this.
• 5:10
  SPEAKER_01: It's a great product.
• 5:12
  SPEAKER_01: One of our huge favorites in this slide.
• 5:14
  SPEAKER_02: You know, the other thing about the vitamin C is when we this age group tends to get acne, right?
• 5:19
  SPEAKER_02: And and one of the maybe triggers of acne, we're still not sure, is lipid peroxidation, which is uh what happens when you have reactive oxygen species interacting with the lipids of your barrier, uh, they become inflammatory.
• 5:32
  SPEAKER_02: And so the way that we can quell that or quench that is with antioxidants, such as the 15% vitamin C in this product.
• 5:41
  SPEAKER_02: So if you are someone who maybe has some early photodamage, or if you have patients who have early photodamage and have a bit of acne, which so many of our adult patients do, this is a great formulation to consider.
• 5:52
  SPEAKER_02: It's got the polyhydroxy acid for exfoliation, it's got the 15% vitamin C.
• 5:57
  SPEAKER_02: Those work, in my view, synergistically for an acne patient.
• 6:00
  SPEAKER_02: But then you've also got the acetyl dipeptide for the anti-aging benefits.
• 6:04
  SPEAKER_01: And the anti-inflammatory.
• 6:05
  SPEAKER_02: And the anti-inflammatory.
• 6:07
  SPEAKER_02: We tend to not talk about that.
• 6:08
  SPEAKER_01: I know.
• 6:08
  SPEAKER_01: It was really initially looked at as an anti-inflammatory.
• 6:12
  SPEAKER_01: So, and then the data's incredible.
• 6:14
  SPEAKER_01: So that's win-win on that one.
• 6:20
  SPEAKER_00: Healthy skin isn't magic, it's science.
• 6:22
  SPEAKER_00: At Neutrogena, we've spent over 90 years perfecting formulations with proven ingredients and cutting-edge innovation.
• 6:29
  SPEAKER_00: The result?
• 6:30
  SPEAKER_00: Skin that looks and feels its best.
• 6:32
  SPEAKER_00: Neutrogena.
• 6:34
  SPEAKER_00: Beauty to a science.
• 6:40
  SPEAKER_01: Let's talk about the second product.
• 6:42
  SPEAKER_01: Okay.
• 6:43
  SPEAKER_01: Let's talk about the huge hair display and area in this booth.
• 6:48
  SPEAKER_01: What a cool area for them to be going into.
• 6:52
  SPEAKER_01: And in this particular product, their serum, they have micro dye peptide.
• 6:57
  SPEAKER_02: Amazing.
• 6:57
  SPEAKER_02: And we know from data that that the 5% topical monoxyl works just about as well as 2.5 milligrams of oral monoxidals.
• 7:06
  SPEAKER_01: Without the downside, without growing hair all over your face.
• 7:09
  SPEAKER_02: Uh-huh.
• 7:09
  SPEAKER_02: Or some of the cardiac side effects.
• 7:11
  SPEAKER_02: So I I've actually turned a lot to topical monoxidal for some of my patients, especially female patients who don't want the unwanted air rogue like you talked about.
• 7:20
  SPEAKER_02: And we know that the fork, of course, it's Neutrogeno, right?
• 7:23
  SPEAKER_02: So we know the formulation is going to be elegant.
• 7:26
  SPEAKER_02: It's not going to cause too much itching or any kind of contact sensitization.
• 7:30
  SPEAKER_02: So that that rogue formulation from Neutrogena makes a lot of sense.
• 7:35
  SPEAKER_02: And now we are surrounding that with scalp health.
• 7:38
  SPEAKER_01: Right now.
• 7:38
  SPEAKER_01: And you know, hair serums are having a moment.
• 7:40
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 7:41
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, everybody's using a hair serum.
• 7:44
  SPEAKER_01: But again, nobody has a hair serum with a cell dipeptide 31 amide or microdipeptide in it.
• 7:50
  SPEAKER_01: So there's some clinical studies coming on this product.
• 7:53
  SPEAKER_01: This is a brand new launch.
• 7:55
  SPEAKER_01: Um trying to think, and you know, because it's a small micropeptide, it does penetrate deeply.
• 8:00
  SPEAKER_01: So it should get down into the level of the follicle.
• 8:03
  SPEAKER_01: It's also, I tried it out here.
• 8:04
  SPEAKER_01: It's very non-greasy.
• 8:06
  SPEAKER_01: Like I like hair serums that leave a residue on the hair.
• 8:09
  SPEAKER_01: This one is really nicely formulated, no surprise, because they've got an incredible formulation team.
• 8:15
  SPEAKER_01: So it shouldn't clog the pores or the hair follicles.
• 8:19
  SPEAKER_01: And I think, you know, stay tuned on what the clinical studies will show.
• 8:22
  SPEAKER_02: I agree.
• 8:23
  SPEAKER_02: If we look at the ingredients for this formulation, they're really interesting.
• 8:26
  SPEAKER_02: Okay, so panthanol, which we know is kind of a skin protectant barrier repair.
• 8:31
  SPEAKER_02: We've got niacinamide, your gentle giant.
• 8:33
  SPEAKER_02: Love that, love that antioxidant helps to repair the barrier as well.
• 8:37
  SPEAKER_02: Anti-inflammatory, fever few, fever few, and caffeine.
• 8:40
  SPEAKER_02: We've got a couple of antioxidants in here.
• 8:42
  SPEAKER_02: Caffeine is probably an ingredient that should be used more in skin care, quite frankly.
• 8:47
  SPEAKER_02: It's such a great antioxidant.
• 8:49
  SPEAKER_02: And then the fever.
• 8:54
  SPEAKER_01: All of those great for mitigating any kind of irritation.
• 8:57
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, so we're really trying to decrease scalp inflammation here.
• 9:00
  SPEAKER_02: We've got arginine, which is part of the natural moisturizing factor.
• 9:04
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's a free amino acid, helps to retain water in the scalp.
• 9:08
  SPEAKER_02: And so, gosh, now that I look through the glycerin is a humectant as well.
• 9:13
  SPEAKER_02: Uh, there's a lot in here, which makes a ton of sense to help support the skin barrier of the scalp.
• 9:20
  SPEAKER_02: I think we're in the era now, Patty, of the skinification of the scalp.
• 9:23
  SPEAKER_01: Yes, and we have had lectures at our meeting on the skinification of the scalp.
• 9:27
  SPEAKER_01: And we need to treat the scalp as tenderly as we treat the facial skin.
• 9:31
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 9:32
  SPEAKER_01: And that's what I think we're learning.
• 9:33
  SPEAKER_01: And what you put on your hair and on your scalp also affects the skin.
• 9:37
  SPEAKER_01: And we've seen a lot of patients who develop problems from using the wrong hair care products as well.
• 9:43
  SPEAKER_02: There is so much attention being made, being paid, excuse me, to hair loss, right?
• 9:48
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I get so many young men coming into the practice who see one hair falling out of their head and they think they're going bald because much like Botox has done to facial lines, where you know, people of a certain age and a certain income bracket may not be able to tolerate any facial lines anymore.
• 10:06
  SPEAKER_02: Socially, it's just not acceptable to have facial lines.
• 10:09
  SPEAKER_02: Now, for these young men, it's not socially acceptable to lose hair.
• 10:13
  SPEAKER_02: And so they are so proactive about making sure that they maintain their hair density and their hairline that we're seeing young men turn to both topical monoxils such as aerogain products or systemics really early just to prevent hair loss.
• 10:30
  SPEAKER_02: And so when we start doing that and they start using all these different shampoos and these products, they go a little overboard.
• 10:34
  SPEAKER_02: They go a little overboard.
• 10:35
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 10:36
  SPEAKER_02: So we need products like this for them, which help to support the scalp health, have ingredients that make a ton of self sense to do so with that acetyl dipeptide in there to support health as well.
• 10:49
  SPEAKER_02: I I love this.
• 10:50
  SPEAKER_02: This is great.
• 10:50
  SPEAKER_01: And it's it's a great combination with the rogue.
• 10:54
  SPEAKER_01: Okay, okay, here we go.
• 10:56
  SPEAKER_01: Number three, what do we have?
• 10:57
  SPEAKER_01: Oh yeah.
• 10:58
  SPEAKER_01: This is this is sort of interesting.
• 11:00
  SPEAKER_01: So really high SPF, SPF 100.
• 11:03
  SPEAKER_01: This is part of the ultra-shear line.
• 11:06
  SPEAKER_01: Has of course the new Helioplex in it, but also antioxidants.
• 11:10
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 11:10
  SPEAKER_01: And you and I are have been talking about this for so long.
• 11:13
  SPEAKER_01: You can blotten ultraviolet light great with most sunscreens, but you've got to protect the skin.
• 11:19
  SPEAKER_01: We now understand the importance of the ultraviolet, the spectrum that goes beyond the ultraviolet light.
• 11:26
  SPEAKER_01: The visible light spectrum, blue light, of course, and even infrared.
• 11:30
  SPEAKER_01: And that's where your antioxidants come out.
• 11:33
  SPEAKER_02: You know, this high-energy visible light and long UVA has just not really been paid much attention to.
• 11:41
  SPEAKER_02: But we know that it exacerbates pigmentation, melasma, for example.
• 11:45
  SPEAKER_01: Especially in patients with darker skin.
• 11:47
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 11:47
  SPEAKER_02: It is so important.
• 11:48
  SPEAKER_02: And I love the fact that you mentioned infrared light because photobiomodulation is also having a moment here, which is the red light masks.
• 11:57
  SPEAKER_02: But Dr.
• 11:58
  SPEAKER_02: Drelos just talked about this in our session yesterday.
• 12:01
  SPEAKER_02: Red light masks also emit infrared light, and then that can be uh damaging to collagen.
• 12:08
  SPEAKER_02: And so and trigger things like melasma.
• 12:11
  SPEAKER_02: And trigger things like melasma.
• 12:13
  SPEAKER_02: So it's important to really consider how we can protect the skin.
• 12:16
  SPEAKER_02: And of course, we know from other data that these very high SPF uh products help protect against sunburns.
• 12:23
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, we know that SPF 30 blocks 98% of the rays, but as we go up, and remember, most people don't even put enough on to get that.
• 12:32
  SPEAKER_01: That's where the high SPF comes in.
• 12:34
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 12:34
  SPEAKER_02: And so that's why these high SPF products make a ton of sense.
• 12:38
  SPEAKER_02: And then let's talk about the antioxidant blend, Patty.
• 12:41
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 12:42
  SPEAKER_02: So we've got fever few.
• 12:43
  SPEAKER_02: We just spoke about fever few in the scalp products.
• 12:45
  SPEAKER_02: So fever few we're seeing kind of interspersed amongst uh different lines of neutrogena.
• 12:51
  SPEAKER_02: It must be an antioxidant they feel has uh really great benefits, and it's also mixed with vitamin E.
• 12:58
  SPEAKER_02: Vitamin E is super important, right?
• 13:00
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, absolutely.
• 13:01
  SPEAKER_02: Um talks about the lipid protein.
• 13:03
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, greatly insoluble antioxidants, uh, and one that we need to add to the skin, right?
• 13:10
  SPEAKER_02: It's not endogenously made or anything like that.
• 13:12
  SPEAKER_02: So we need to add that to the skin.
• 13:13
  SPEAKER_02: So, really, I love this blocks 99% of UVB rays, helps protect against free radical formation with these beautiful antioxidants and from high energy visible light.
• 13:25
  SPEAKER_02: And again, really important for us to start considering protecting our skin against HEV.
• 13:32
  SPEAKER_02: Let's see, what else can we talk about with the helio?
• 13:35
  SPEAKER_01: But then you know, when they've just got some really nice absorbance uh data here that shows that that long wavelength UVA and the HEP is adequately absorbed by the sun's room.
• 13:47
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, so it's great.
• 13:48
  SPEAKER_02: And and these antioxidant blends make a lot of sense.
• 13:51
  SPEAKER_02: Now, we're going to hopefully get soon a new filter which also targets long UVA called BMT.
• 13:58
  SPEAKER_02: But until that happens, we need these kinds of products which have the antioxidant blends, which have the high SBS to protect our skin against not only UVB.
• 14:08
  SPEAKER_02: And remember, SVF is only a factor that shows the protection against UVB.
• 14:13
  SPEAKER_02: Okay, we need it to say broad spectrum.
• 14:15
  SPEAKER_02: We need the antioxidant blend because we know UVA, high energy visible light, is responsible for not only photodamage, but also skin cancer formation.
• 14:24
  SPEAKER_01: Absolutely.
• 14:25
  SPEAKER_01: So yeah, this is a great sunscreen.
• 14:28
  SPEAKER_02: An important part of the regimen, really, I think for the derms out there, uh, for anyone listening that's responsible for patient skin care, really focus on products like this, which are beautifully formulated, have ingredients that work together to help protect the skin.
• 14:42
  SPEAKER_02: This can be part of an acne line or rosacea line.
• 14:45
  SPEAKER_02: This can be part of a lot of different regimen that you uh recommend to your patients.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_02: So just something to consider.
• 14:51
  SPEAKER_02: And then, of course, as we look back, that collagen baked vitamin C, I think is just super.
• 14:56
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, all these products are great.
• 14:58
  SPEAKER_01: So we want to thank you, Trogenia, for sponsoring this episode.
• 15:00
  SPEAKER_01: Thank all our listeners for listening again.
• 15:03
  SPEAKER_01: And we are super excited for this year's Science of Skin Summit.
• 15:07
  SPEAKER_01: It'll be in Austin in September.
• 15:09
  SPEAKER_01: What is our day?
• 15:10
  SPEAKER_01: The 17th to the 20th.
• 15:11
  SPEAKER_01: We keep changing, making it longer.
• 15:13
  SPEAKER_01: We have so much to present, we can't even get it done in three days.
• 15:16
  SPEAKER_01: That's right.
• 15:16
  SPEAKER_01: It's getting crazy.
• 15:18
  SPEAKER_01: Everybody have a great weekend.
• 15:20
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you.
• 15:25
  SPEAKER_00: 90 years of expertise and innovation.
• 15:28
  SPEAKER_00: Neutrogena brings you skincare powered by science, delivering results you can trust and beautiful aesthetics you can feel.
• 15:35
  SPEAKER_00: That's Neutrogena Beauty to a science.