Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Chef Harold Villarosa: Filipino Cuisine, High-Efficiency Kitchens, and Culinary Insights | Chef's PSA Podcast Ep. 128
Transcript
- 0:00Hello chefs, this is Chef's PSA podcast.
- 0:02I'm your host Andre Natera. On today's episode, we have
- 0:05Harold Villarosa. Harold's a legendary chef based
- 0:07out of Austin, TX from New York. He's working some incredible
- 0:10restaurants including Per SE and Noma right now.
- 0:13He just recently opened OCO in Austin, TX.
- 0:16I tried it. I think the food is phenomenal.
- 0:18In this episode we get to talk about Filipino cuisine, working
- 0:22in some of the best restaurants in the world, what some of his
- 0:24standards are in the kitchen, and advice that you would give
- 0:27to any chef that wants to step into the high end world of
- 0:29cooking. Don't miss this one.
- 0:30Stay tuned. This episode of Chef's PSA is
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- 1:19Congratulations man. I appreciate it.
- 1:21Thank you so much. Yeah.
- 1:22So, so for people that don't know, you just opened up OCO.
- 1:25That's right in Austin, TX. Tell, tell for people that are
- 1:28listening, tell them about it. Oco is, is our take on Filipino
- 1:32food with a Texas prism. Yeah.
- 1:33So we're using a lot of Texas products, but we're flavoring
- 1:36and with some of the food and no flavor profiles.
- 1:38Yeah. And it's it's right here on
- 1:40downtown EE 6 on the east side. Used to be asking then it's
- 1:47right on the corner. So beautiful space and we're
- 1:50super excited for it. Has been a great feedback so
- 1:52far. How do you, when you're doing
- 1:54the R&D process because obviously you, you have this
- 1:57classical training, I don't want to say classical, but you know,
- 1:59you, you haven't necessarily done this type of restaurant
- 2:02before now in Austin, even though we had a couple of
- 2:05Filipino restaurants, we haven't had anything on this scale.
- 2:08So how do you bring your technique and your training the
- 2:12Filipino cuisine? I mean, I think it really just
- 2:14comes down to you knowing who you are.
- 2:17I think that's where that's where it just comes down to.
- 2:20The voice that we're speaking through right now is an
- 2:22experience between Paul and I, Paul Keys, one of the principal
- 2:26owners of the restaurant. And so I think, you know, being
- 2:29able to been working with Filipino pro food profiles for
- 2:33the last six years and kind of diving into my own Filipino
- 2:36American upbringing and kind of bringing to that the forefront,
- 2:41you know, the techniques that I've learned and then really
- 2:43understanding what works with Filipino food and kind of what
- 2:46people really like to eat with Filipino food.
- 2:49That's really it. And then also a lot of failure.
- 2:52The R&D part is super hard. You know, it's a lot of trial
- 2:57and error. A lot of stuff gets burnt, a lot
- 2:59of stuff gets too sour, too sweet.
- 3:02You know, you got to find this medium always.
- 3:06But then also, sometimes it just doesn't work, you know, like
- 3:09some food that we really wanted to do didn't make the cut
- 3:12because it was too, it was too Filipino in that sense, you know
- 3:16what I mean? Yeah, What?
- 3:16What do you mean by that? Too Filipino?
- 3:17Like for people that don't understand, what are some of the
- 3:19predominant flavors in the Philippines that would be
- 3:21shocking to the kind of the Austin palate?
- 3:24Yeah, That would have to stick with the funk.
- 3:27What the fuck? The most Southeast Asia, rest
- 3:30Southeast Asia cultures have this funk.
- 3:31Yeah, right. It's mainly fermented fish.
- 3:35And we have a dish that has it. It's called Buglong.
- 3:39In my country. But Paul and I decided that the
- 3:41Baguan need to taste like something that we can eat.
- 3:44You know, we couldn't be too strong.
- 3:47It makes the dishes kind of you need to have that palate already
- 3:51to be able to understand why we use that funk that way.
- 3:55So we decided to create our own funk in a sense.
- 3:59So we have, you know, some dehydrated squid, baby baby baby
- 4:04squid, baby shrimp, some anato seed, our GSG, which is our base
- 4:11garlic, ginger, shallots, and then a lot over not the oil that
- 4:15not the oil is made out of chicken fat.
- 4:17And so we have a lot of these like nuances and they kind of
- 4:20didn't damper it, but it increased the flavor of what
- 4:22we're looking for when you create a dish like that or a
- 4:25condom in like that. And it's been super popular with
- 4:28the Filipinos coming in. I mean, do you want to take some
- 4:31home, analyze it? You want to do they're like, why
- 4:33does it taste like this? And it's been very interesting
- 4:36to see the Filipinos grab onto it and want more of it because
- 4:40you can literally eat it now. It's like, it's like one of
- 4:42those things where before the belong that comes in a, in a
- 4:45glass can, a glass container or the fermented differently.
- 4:48It's too salty, too sour or any of that sort.
- 4:52This condiment that we make is fresh.
- 4:54So it's, it's, it's, you can have the umami flavor profiles
- 4:57in it and we still have the texture you're looking for and
- 5:00that dish and then the saltiness that you need.
- 5:02Just dab a little bit here and there, it makes the dishes go
- 5:05well. So for people that don't know,
- 5:07if you were going to have a traditional Filipino meal,
- 5:10Filipino meal at home, what does that look like?
- 5:12Like what's on the table? You invite friends, families
- 5:14over what's being served, so. Rice, rice always.
- 5:19And then also just depends on the weather where you at.
- 5:22If you're in California, you're definitely going to hit you with
- 5:26lumpy up and sit some broth like a synagogue, which is like a
- 5:31sour broth with salmon head and shrimp.
- 5:35And then they'll hit you with the big pork belly or lecho and
- 5:41koala situation. And then the dessert is another
- 5:44section. You know what I'm saying?
- 5:45Like for four people that would be the meal.
- 5:49So it'll be like we'll be a pancit synagon pork belly dish
- 5:55and like maybe a big ass bowl of big, big bowl of rice.
- 6:00Yeah, I'll talk about maybe a quarts worth, yeah.
- 6:03I mean, I ate, I ate at the restaurant last week and I, I
- 6:07thought everything was great and I, and I feel like a lot of what
- 6:10you just talked about I saw on my table.
- 6:12That's right. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 6:14We want to have the, we want to have the same, the same
- 6:17algorithm that that people recognize.
- 6:21But sometimes, you know, we want to make it with smaller portions
- 6:24or we want to we want to UMP the sourness a little bit or up the
- 6:27sweetness a little bit and add a little spice, because I feel
- 6:30like a little bit of food has doesn't have that layer of ice
- 6:33to it. You know, it's very sweet, very
- 6:37sour and very umami filled with with soy and and mushroom
- 6:41powder. You know, those are the things
- 6:43that we use all the time. So Paul and I decide to add a
- 6:45little bit of Thai chilies or habanero into the mix and then
- 6:49they care created a new, I guess a new look of the food.
- 6:53Yeah. Well, I mean, I guess that kind
- 6:55of makes sense for this market, right?
- 6:57People are people do lean a little bit spicy in Texas
- 7:01especially. Do you see Filipino cuisine kind
- 7:04of making an emergence right now?
- 7:06Do you see other chefs that that you're looking at as well say,
- 7:09OK, there's there's, there's more people that are interested
- 7:11in bringing this flavor? Out.
- 7:12I mean, for for the past 20 years, Filipinos in the kitchen,
- 7:16I've always been either lime cooks or number twos, never been
- 7:20in the front, you know what I mean?
- 7:21And I feel like we're having this moment now where Filipinos
- 7:26are being able to speak their voice and be able to express
- 7:30themselves through the culture and be able to say, this is what
- 7:34I stand on now instead of like standing on French food or
- 7:37standing on Italian food or standing on Japanese food, you
- 7:40know what I mean? And I think we're finding our
- 7:43way now to, to express ourselves.
- 7:45And Filipino chefs are super talented.
- 7:47You know, like I've met so many Filipino chefs that work for,
- 7:50you know, TKRG and Danielle's and New York and all this stuff
- 7:54and never had an opportunity to really like cook our food, you
- 7:58know. So with the emergence of, you
- 8:00know, Kasama being a missus star now in Chicago and those guys
- 8:04coming out of Greg Atkins Kitchen and you know, like
- 8:07Francis Ang and Abaco in San Francisco, you know, Moussang in
- 8:12Seattle with with Mel and you know, Kaya in Orlando with my my
- 8:17friend Lordafer and Paulo at Haraya and DC.
- 8:22And then in New York, there's this, you know, a plethora of
- 8:25restaurants now Calle to nax to all types of restaurants that
- 8:29opening up. So I think we're having this
- 8:31moment that any Filipino restaurant can either go tutto,
- 8:37Tutto, which was just like a place with heat lamps and like
- 8:40you just scooping and go into a container that's also good, or
- 8:44you can go right into mid levels.
- 8:47Where we're at? Where it's like a little bit of,
- 8:50you know, fine dining aspects to it, but you can still feel like
- 8:53it's casual or you can go super fine down and like custom and
- 8:56get a much less start. And also there's this like
- 8:59window that we can fit now, and I think we can do all three
- 9:03whichever way we want to do it, you know what I mean?
- 9:05Yeah, because open up a restaurant is really fresh on
- 9:08your mind right now. You know when you open about
- 9:10two. Weeks ago.
- 9:11Two weeks ago. I don't know.
- 9:13Today is October 8th that we're recording.
- 9:17One of the things that we talked about in this podcast a lot is
- 9:20hopefully that people could learn something in takeaways so
- 9:22they could not make the same mistakes that we've made.
- 9:24So what are some of the things that people should look out for
- 9:28when they're opening up a restaurant?
- 9:30Like we we always think about writing a menu and we always
- 9:33think about making sure the food tastes good, but what are some
- 9:34of the other things that people don't think about?
- 9:37Man, after, at the end of the day that comes down the capital,
- 9:40you know, and the capital part is the most important part.
- 9:43Anytime you think that you're going to spend this much,
- 9:46multiply that by 30%, you know what I'm saying?
- 9:49It's not always what it is. This you excavating the bottom
- 9:53part of the building and you find some Mesopotamian rock that
- 9:58the, the, the museum has to come in and excavate.
- 10:01Like stuff like that happens all the time.
- 10:03You know what I mean? Like the pipe burst, like what
- 10:06are you going to do with that? Like the, the, the oven doesn't
- 10:09fit and the space that you allotted for it, it doesn't
- 10:12match with the, the hood system. Like, you know, like any of
- 10:16these things happen all the time and I think some restaurant
- 10:20owners and some and some people that's going into the restaurant
- 10:23business don't want to open a restaurant, think that it's cut
- 10:26and dry like other businesses. There's so much nuances that go
- 10:30into it that you have to be aware of.
- 10:32And I think giving yourself a runway to protect yourself
- 10:36capital wise, it's the smartest thing to do, you know what I
- 10:39mean? And like being able to have that
- 10:42cushion will give you the right to be able to be more creative,
- 10:46but also open would open the restaurant and not give the
- 10:50staff owners all the way to the dishwasher any of that stress
- 10:55and all it's it's it's I've opened nine restaurants in my
- 10:59career now. This one was top four in a sense
- 11:02of like not hurting as much, you know what I'm saying?
- 11:06But I've been to some openings where, you know, the the
- 11:11construction, the GCS, the middle service is, is drilling
- 11:15something on the wall. You know what I mean?
- 11:16Like or there there something broke in the back and collapsed
- 11:21the whole shelving unit or some crazy thing and or the
- 11:25dishwasher just blew up. And you know, like always.
- 11:29So I think if you're going to get into the restaurant business
- 11:32and you want to open a restaurant, whatever your
- 11:34performer number is, you're going to multiply that by 30%
- 11:38just to give yourself a cushion and then you won't be so
- 11:41stressful, you know what I'm saying?
- 11:42You won't be so stressed. What about building a team?
- 11:44When, when you're opening up this restaurant, how do you, how
- 11:46do you go about picking, you know, your sous chefs, your line
- 11:49cooks and everything else Make sure that you, you're
- 11:51successful. Yeah, I mean you, I'm, I'm new
- 11:54to this market, right. So in New York, I don't really
- 12:00hire sous chefs until the day we open or, or the week, the week
- 12:05before we open, because I rather see what talent I have in house
- 12:11and build that person up. You know, because my system is
- 12:14super old school. I run it.
- 12:16I run a super old school. You know, I, I, I cross train
- 12:21everybody in the station. I also require that I rather
- 12:28have a small team than a large team, so everybody can feel what
- 12:33it's like to work in that kind of space because I feel like it
- 12:35makes me stronger that you can work in that kind of kind of
- 12:40like close unit. And it also creates the bond
- 12:44that, you know, it's like, it's like being in the military,
- 12:47right? Like, you know, naval seals are
- 12:49small units and then they go into these, into the situations
- 12:53and small packs and they create this bond and it's unbreakable,
- 12:57right? And one of my and one of my
- 12:59mantra in the kitchen is the line never breaks.
- 13:02It don't matter how hard the front of the house is pushing.
- 13:04We as a team never break, you know, so I always kind of really
- 13:11push it to a limit to my team. And I want them to feel that
- 13:15that that top tier pressure and then move and then wean off when
- 13:20you start like opening and like doing all these things.
- 13:22So they know what that feels like.
- 13:26And when they get there, they know how to act.
- 13:27But at the same time, we only work in a space where we're
- 13:31comfortable and then we're, we're good, you know what I
- 13:34mean? So I always want them to feel
- 13:35what those, those, those, those extremes are because I want them
- 13:39to know what the, what the boxes they're going to play in.
- 13:42And then when I hire a sous chef or even we left the sous chef up
- 13:46from the, from the squad. That's the best way for me
- 13:49because that sous chef already went through the battles with
- 13:52those guys and they know that they can trust him to to have to
- 13:57to protect them and have to have their back.
- 13:59Also because at the end of the day, what I learned when I was
- 14:02young, the hardest transition was from being a lie cooked to a
- 14:05sous chef. That was the hardest transition.
- 14:08Why? I think having the trust of the
- 14:11guys on the line and them knowing that you're going to be
- 14:13a supervisor and then you have to like really get into the mix.
- 14:18You either got to be better than them and cooking or any of those
- 14:22sort, or you're showing them something new, right?
- 14:25So I feel like I always like to hire from within the group and
- 14:31it's like choosing A-Team captain on basketball team,
- 14:33right? This guy's the captain now, and
- 14:36they know why he's a captain because he scores the most
- 14:39points. He works the hardest, He shows
- 14:41up before you, he leaves before you.
- 14:44His station is the cleanest, he's pick up times are faster
- 14:47than you. Like, all these type of things.
- 14:49They already know that is the reason why he's getting lifted.
- 14:52And I usually ask the team to vote for that guy to be bought
- 14:56up to be a sous chef. But that's the way I like to
- 14:59kind of run my teams in and then have them be in the mix,
- 15:02especially when we're opening, have them be in the mix together
- 15:06and then choose the choose the leader and then he leaves the
- 15:10pack and I just I'm, I'm just, I'm just in the back.
- 15:12So when you're stress testing like in a mock service or
- 15:16whatever, you, you push them, do you, do you scale up the cover?
- 15:20So like I'm just making this up like 6080. 100 no, I I open it,
- 15:23I RIP the band in just let them crash.
- 15:25Yeah, yeah, yeah. So they so they find all the
- 15:28pressure points. Exactly.
- 15:29And then we we have that conversation after yeah.
- 15:31I'm like, how can you make your station better in this sense?
- 15:34You're moving too much. Yeah, you should you should only
- 15:36be spinning on your station. You're moving too much.
- 15:39You're going out of your station too much.
- 15:40Why is that? Oh, chef ran out of space that
- 15:43are that a bunch of big kits and make kit up kit up your station
- 15:47boom or chef Boom, get up there station boom, boom, boom, you
- 15:49know, and all this stuff. So I like to RIP it open.
- 15:52When we did our friends and family, we did 80 covers each
- 15:57dish except for the large format items was under 9 minutes.
- 16:01These boys were pumping. You know, we built this.
- 16:04We built the menu for speed, obviously, but I told them a
- 16:07couple a couple tricks of like, you know, the rest of the
- 16:10kitchen. I'm telling you the truth.
- 16:12It's a New York kitchen. That's, that's bottom line, the
- 16:15size, the way the line is formatted, how many guys are on
- 16:18that line? How many dishwasher we like.
- 16:20This is a, this is a New York setup.
- 16:22You know what I'm saying? So I already knew that that one
- 16:25guy that's in the fry station, he only has a 4x4 situation.
- 16:29No, no wasted space, no waste. He has nowhere to go.
- 16:33He has nowhere to go. So he has to go upside or on top
- 16:36of stuff like he used to find a way to control the the his own
- 16:40station. And you know, my main thing is
- 16:43really maintaining cleanliness, you know what I'm saying?
- 16:46So every hour and a half, the dishwashers come down, do a deep
- 16:51sweep and mop real quick. And so the guys on the line feel
- 16:54always that their stations create.
- 16:56So whenever they see the dishwashers come down, they
- 16:58start cleaning the pianos, you know what I'm saying?
- 17:01Doing all the stuff, wiping the station down.
- 17:04And so it's, it's, it's, it's, it's like my own little nuances
- 17:07that I've that I've created for myself when I was a cook.
- 17:10And this is my, this is, this is my reflection of how I was when
- 17:13I was a cook. You know what I mean, working in
- 17:16a small New York kitchen. So yeah, we will, you know, I
- 17:20think OCO right now hasn't really been tested in a sense of
- 17:25like what this feels like for opening the reservations.
- 17:30The most we've done is 175. I think we can do 250, right?
- 17:35Just like five turns at the restaurant.
- 17:39I'm sorry. That's like four turns at the
- 17:40restaurant and I think we can bang it out.
- 17:44But you know, we're still, we're still, we're still there.
- 17:47So when, when you open up the, I mean, in my express, I'm sure
- 17:51you probably experience this too.
- 17:52We usually when you open up a restaurant, you have a lot of
- 17:54attrition. So you start with this team and
- 17:56then little they, they didn't make it, they're gone.
- 17:59You got to replace them. No, I didn't have that.
- 18:00I didn't have that opportunity. I wanted to yeah.
- 18:05That's what I'll talk to the owners about.
- 18:06But the owners like Naha, this is this is how much you got
- 18:09this, this is what you got. You don't get anything to trim.
- 18:12This is this is this is this is it.
- 18:13You either going to go in there trim and like ready to go or
- 18:17you're not. You're not going to be ready.
- 18:19So how do you handle like? So what is trim Four or five?
- 18:22Cooks on the line 44 cooks on the line 2 dishwashers, 2 prep
- 18:26Guys, what if you lose? One like how quickly because
- 18:28Austin, sometimes it's kind of tough to to, to flip people.
- 18:31But how, how do you make sure that OK, if you're going in lean
- 18:37and you, you don't have the opportunity to lose people
- 18:39because it gets, you know, it gets too hard for them.
- 18:41Whatever. How do you how do you make sure
- 18:43that they're that they're taking care of?
- 18:45In the beginning, we have this conversation when we first meet.
- 18:47You know, there's only two rules in the kitchen and my kitchen. 1
- 18:51is you come on time and then two, you work hard between the
- 18:54times. I don't really care what happens
- 18:56outside of this place. I don't care what's going on at
- 18:59your house. I don't care none of that.
- 19:01You leave that stuff up when you enter this place and you clock
- 19:04in, leave all that stuff at home.
- 19:06This is a safe place. This is a place where you can be
- 19:09whoever you want to be. And all I ask for you is to work
- 19:12hard between the times that you're here.
- 19:14Other than that, we're good. Nobody drinks on my spot, nobody
- 19:19does drugs. This is, we're straightforward
- 19:22going in, work as hard as we can, then go home.
- 19:25Then we're punching out and once they understand that this is the
- 19:29this these are the only two rules and that we not all the
- 19:32people that I interview, you know, some people are Divas and
- 19:35they want to, you know, do some other stuff they're.
- 19:38All Divas. Shit, they're all Divas.
- 19:40So, you know, we went through that through the interview
- 19:42process, you know, and mostly, mostly most of my guys are are
- 19:46to tell you the truth or are the people that I came up with in
- 19:49the kitchen, they're all Guatemalan guys, you know, or
- 19:51Mexican guys, you know, like this is the type of kitchen I
- 19:54have right now. These guys are hard nosed,
- 19:56hardcore, like don't ask for nothing, but all they want is
- 20:01like a soda at the end of the night.
- 20:02Like, you know what I mean? Like these guys come in, clean
- 20:05the station, taste everything. Like we have the down to a pat
- 20:08like to a system, you know? So let let me ask you this.
- 20:11We were talking about Filipino food earlier and, and it has a
- 20:14certain funk to it. But you're saying in your
- 20:16kitchen, you have a lot of people that are Guatemala and,
- 20:19and, and maybe don't know that funk.
- 20:21They don't recognize that flavor.
- 20:22How do you train them to because to them they're, they're just,
- 20:25they don't, they don't know like it tastes good, but is it right
- 20:28or wrong? How do you train them on the?
- 20:29Palate we, we, we talk about the cultural connections.
- 20:33Yeah, we always talk about what does, what does this look like
- 20:36on their side? So let's say, you know, they
- 20:40don't even know they, they didn't know.
- 20:42I talked to them last week. There was a there's a trade
- 20:45between the Philippines and Mexico for over 250 years called
- 20:48the Mexican galleon trade, right.
- 20:51And we got chocolate from Mexico.
- 20:53We gave them agave and coconut milk.
- 20:56And like, we're literally cousins in this sense, right?
- 21:00So any of the dishes that we, we do, I try to tell them, oh, this
- 21:04is like a ceviche, but this is like a por Coco sauce, a Verde
- 21:09or this is like tamales or this is like boom, boom, boom, like
- 21:13any of those things. So there's a connection there.
- 21:15So they're always saying, oh, studi needs more salt, doesn't
- 21:18need more sugar, doesn't need more fish sauce.
- 21:21They're always constantly asking these questions.
- 21:24And I do a tasting every 4:30 with all the sauces.
- 21:28They come up with a spoon to you.
- 21:29Yeah, bring me with all the spoons, you know, and I taste
- 21:32every station, stuff like that. So that's where the learning
- 21:36process is, you know what I mean?
- 21:37Yeah, when you're teaching someone to taste, like, how do
- 21:41you how do you explain to them? Do you explain to them like
- 21:43salt, heat, acid? Or do you just say no, no,
- 21:45you're tasting? Do you get more granular?
- 21:47No, no, no, I'll. Give, I'll give them the
- 21:48overarching thing. I'll give them that space to,
- 21:51to, to kind of get the flavors to, to where they needed to go.
- 21:55Then I tasted the back end and I tell them over.
- 21:57This is great, you know, because at the end of the day, sometimes
- 22:00some of the products, the temperature that might be in the
- 22:02space would be a little different.
- 22:03Something might be out for two hours like it always changes,
- 22:07you know. But the main thing we try to do
- 22:09is all the green sauces that we have, this fresh stays in the
- 22:12box. Does it stay out?
- 22:13You know, so those things always stay fresh and all the sauces
- 22:16are always done two days. We fit the sauces every two
- 22:19days. What it?
- 22:20What is the creative? Process look like for you like
- 22:22like. I know a lot of chefs like
- 22:24myself for example, I need headphones, classical music,
- 22:27green tea and quiet Some Some people like cookbooks everywhere
- 22:31with a habs, other people it's like a bunch of people in a room
- 22:34and were writing shit on the whiteboard.
- 22:36What is your creative process look like?
- 22:37Cookbooks. Cookbooks I'm.
- 22:39A big cookbook head. Yeah.
- 22:40Cookbooks all over the table. Moleskin notebook.
- 22:44Silence Alone. Alone.
- 22:47Yeah, that's how I get down. And I think I got that way when
- 22:50I used to work the Food Network back in 2010, the other library.
- 22:55And that's all I got to know about, you know, shows like Greg
- 22:57Akits, Thomas Keller and all that kind of stuff.
- 23:00And so, yeah, I, I love cookbooks.
- 23:02I think visually I'm, I'm good with kind of like the plating
- 23:06and, and kind of the nuances of dishes.
- 23:09Yeah. And also, you know, YouTube
- 23:11University is great, you know what I'm saying?
- 23:12And we use that a lot. I, I want to ask you cuz I know
- 23:16you, you didn't mention you work at the Food Network.
- 23:18We've also worked in some great restaurants per SE.
- 23:21Noma, arguably two of the greatest restaurants you know in
- 23:25the world. Batard.
- 23:29For someone that's. Never worked in that type of
- 23:31kitchen because I'm, I'm at one point you were the guy that
- 23:34didn't ever work in those kitchens who went into those
- 23:36kitchens. I'm sure there was a learning
- 23:37curve for someone that's never been in those kitchens.
- 23:42How would you prepare to go into something like that?
- 23:44If you've never been in that environment?
- 23:46What are the things that you should look out for?
- 23:48I think. First and foremost, you should
- 23:49work in their intention. Yeah, yeah.
- 23:52You shouldn't go in there thinking that, you know, it's
- 23:55going to be a, a breeze walk in a park.
- 23:58You know what I mean? Like, these are, these kitchens
- 24:02are where they're at because of a certain level of intensity #1
- 24:06and then a #2 there's a certain level of standard that you need
- 24:09to follow. And you need to get into the
- 24:11kool-aid fast. You know, don't wait for the
- 24:13kool-aid to get to you six months in or whatever.
- 24:16You need to drink the Kool-aid ASAP.
- 24:18Yeah. What?
- 24:18What? What do you?
- 24:19Mean. What do you mean I mean?
- 24:20So, and, and per SE they have, it's called, it's like a code of
- 24:28conduct. Every month there's a, there's a
- 24:30word that we have to be following every month like, you
- 24:34know, humbleness or gratefulness or any of those things.
- 24:38Like you literally have to know those terms.
- 24:40And you know, you need to know why we have those terms for this
- 24:43month because the chefs will ask you then, have you been grateful
- 24:47today? Have you been like, have you,
- 24:49have you been, have you shaking shake out with the team?
- 24:52Have you wash the apron? Have you, you know, like, you
- 24:56know, like, have you shaved today?
- 24:58Like, you know, like you need to get into the system ASAP.
- 25:02You need to know what the system is.
- 25:03And if you had to come early, you need to come early.
- 25:06If your station is not ready when the time the shop needs you
- 25:08to get done, it's not going to be it's not going to be worth
- 25:11it. You know like I was a call me
- 25:13for like 3 months and I was in charge of cornets right?
- 25:17And I hate making the fucking them freaking cornets you you
- 25:20still like. Yeah, I hate making those
- 25:22cornets. They're the worst.
- 25:24And then the add these these pipes that were screaming hot
- 25:27that we had to like put the cornets in, you know what I
- 25:29mean? And so I don't have time.
- 25:32Like there's no space to work. You need a ton of space.
- 25:36And so my clock in was six O clock.
- 25:40I was there at 3:30 every morning. 330I was there with the
- 25:44bakers. I will turn on all the lights
- 25:46have to give everybody a new salt.
- 25:48You black pepper peppercorn in their pepper mill.
- 25:51So, So what you're? Saying is important.
- 25:52I I want you to so you're you're the low comedy coming.
- 25:56Yes. You fill everyone's salt.
- 25:58You fill everyone's pepper mills.
- 25:59Make sure that one's seafolds when seafolds when they come in
- 26:02everyone's set, yes. Why was that important?
- 26:04So and then we'll get back to that.
- 26:05But I I think that's I I like that.
- 26:08Yeah, I like the comedy. Comes in and fills up everyone's
- 26:10salt pepper. Well, first of all, it was my
- 26:11job. Yeah, that's perfect.
- 26:14They asked. Me to do it was my job, but it
- 26:17was it was all the comedy's job. We were to make sure that all of
- 26:19the guys that came in for chef to parties will be set up on
- 26:23their station. So deli daily containers with
- 26:25lids, like the whole 9. But I was there.
- 26:28That was the first one. So I was like, you know what,
- 26:30Instead of everybody's scrambling, trying to do this
- 26:33mediocre thing, I'll take 20 minutes and I'll do the whole,
- 26:36I'll do the whole restaurant. Yeah.
- 26:37So you know, I will grab all my butter, all of my flour, all the
- 26:42stuff I need for the cornets. And then another container of
- 26:46all the stuff went into full the the stations went and I was just
- 26:49hit the whole thing. And then I would start working
- 26:52on the cornets, turn the lights on.
- 26:54The other thing too, is just a great feeling to be in a three
- 26:56star restaurant by yourself at one station making cornets and
- 27:02and and and and just seeing everybody's face when they see
- 27:05you making cornet. So like this time and and you
- 27:08know, people talk about it. You want to talk about you, you
- 27:10know, Harold's menace is like 430, like making cornets, like,
- 27:13you know what I mean? Like, and and also I got bumped
- 27:18up, bumped up fast to go to be a chef to party because I was
- 27:21doing these extra things, you know, but yeah, so I think going
- 27:27into a, a three star, two star, one star, you need to have
- 27:31intention. You need to make sure you know
- 27:33what you're going in there for. And and don't come in there
- 27:37thinking that you're going to learn everything.
- 27:38You need to be specific of what you want to do because I suggest
- 27:41you only stay at those pots for a year.
- 27:44You know, don't stay more than that or you're going to lose
- 27:47your mind. You know what I'm saying?
- 27:49One year maximum. Be intentional.
- 27:52You know, I'm going to learn how to butcher this way.
- 27:54I'm going to make, you know, for GUA torchions and all this kind
- 27:58of stuff. This is what I'm going to learn
- 27:59at this spot, the next spot. I'm going to learn how to, you
- 28:03know, run, run on trumpet by myself, you know, and stuff like
- 28:07that. Like I will go into these places
- 28:09where intentions of, of a plan of what I'm trying to learn now,
- 28:13a place like Noma, you know, I got in, you know, through asking
- 28:17Rene, Rene Rizeppi at a, at a conference around everybody, if
- 28:20I could start. And I saw that video and he said
- 28:22he can't say no and that that's all I got in.
- 28:24And so it was like, you know, sometimes you get, you get like,
- 28:28you get like somebody writes a letter for you or your chef
- 28:32sends you whatever. That's how I got in, you know,
- 28:34so my, my, my situation with Noma is a little different.
- 28:37More is, is more of a fairy tale thing for me because that was
- 28:40such a, an amazing. I, I never knew that that that
- 28:44could happen, you know what I mean?
- 28:45And when I met Chevronet and when I was in Noma, he, I've
- 28:51never seen a chef that really talked about what he was doing.
- 28:55Like when he was doing that conference was telling us all
- 28:58these things. I'm like, ah, that's PS man,
- 28:59this guy talking about he's there before everybody,
- 29:01whatever. No, but I, when I was there, he
- 29:03was, he was there making breakfast for everybody.
- 29:06And like we would have these sessions as a staggers where he
- 29:10would be breaking on like like a rabbit calls a hair and they
- 29:13would be breaking a whole hair. Tells us about the you know, how
- 29:16to, how to kill a duck. And you know the old school way
- 29:19of like he's been hanging it and letting it separate from his
- 29:23body the whole 9 right. My time, I know my own was super
- 29:28romantic because we got, I got a chance to leave New York and be
- 29:31in Europe #1 then #2 Renee Rizeppe and the team really took
- 29:37a chance on me as a kid from the Bronx.
- 29:40And I was the only guy from the Bronx.
- 29:41Hi, Everybody else was Allen Ducasse or whatever, right?
- 29:45And you had. Worked at per SE before.
- 29:46No, this is after. This is I was a Noma still.
- 29:49This Noma was 2000. 2011 per SE was 2015 and I opened Batard 20.
- 29:56Yeah, 2013, yeah. And so I haven't really worked
- 30:01in Michel star restaurant back then, but working in Europe and
- 30:05that Michel * restaurant, like I romanticize it to this day.
- 30:09You know, every time I go back, see the boys, see the chef, you
- 30:13know, it's always been love. So for me, my time at Normal was
- 30:16different. But if I had to go back and like
- 30:19really like spend those three months again, I wouldn't, I
- 30:23would be more focused on intention, you know, and like,
- 30:25what would I try to learn here in normal?
- 30:27What kind of techniques do I need to learn?
- 30:30You know, at that time they were on top of the world, right?
- 30:32It was #1 Restaurant in the World cookbook just came out.
- 30:36All those bad, bad ass chefs were there, you know, like Matt
- 30:39Orlando was the the chef's cuisine.
- 30:42Tom Halpin was still there. Like all these guys, you know,
- 30:46like, so you know, I've done a day.
- 30:49It was like a rock star group, you know, and, and it was such
- 30:53an amazing time. But if I had to go back, I would
- 30:55just, you know, be more intentional.
- 30:57But at the same time, I wouldn't.
- 30:59I don't regret all my time. And I mean, so if you had a
- 31:02young kid. Coming up to you and saying,
- 31:03hey, I've never worked in a, in a, in a, in a three star before.
- 31:07And I just, I just got accepted and you're going to sit him down
- 31:10and say, hey, sit down, sit down.
- 31:13Let me tell you some what, what, what are the couple of things
- 31:15like 3 or 4 things that you say don't, don't, don't, don't,
- 31:18right, I think. The first thing is don't be
- 31:20late. Don't be late, don't be late.
- 31:22I think #2 also is, like I said, be intentional.
- 31:27You know what you're going in there for, don't think that it's
- 31:30going to be easy or any of that sort #3.
- 31:34I think, I think that just be mindful of the space awareness
- 31:40and all. I think these, these two star
- 31:42kitchens are so bait and so massive and so many walk in so
- 31:46many, you know what I mean? All these brand new gadgets, all
- 31:49this stuff. But to be an amazing chef, an
- 31:52amazing cook, I think you need to understand that you need just
- 31:54as much space to, to, to, to make things happen, you know,
- 31:59and I think if your special awareness is good, you can place
- 32:02yourself between a table of 15 people and you wouldn't, you
- 32:05wouldn't even know you're there, you know what I mean?
- 32:07And then I think the last thing is, is, is to build
- 32:11relationships not only with your supervisors, but the guys next
- 32:16to you and the, the woman next to you, you know, 'cause you
- 32:19never know who they're going to become after they leave that
- 32:22place. But also you're, you're engraved
- 32:25with that family forever. You know, TKRG will always have
- 32:31a special place on my heart, even though it was such a hard
- 32:33place to work at. But the people that I came out
- 32:36with, the people that are still part of the family and all this
- 32:39type of stuff, people don't even cook anymore.
- 32:43We're still, we still had those moments together, you know what
- 32:46I mean? And I think that's, that's the
- 32:48one thing I really enjoy about the restaurant business is, is,
- 32:51is those moments and, and being with people that enjoy the same
- 32:55things you enjoy and sharing those moments together.
- 32:57You know what I mean? While we're on the subject.
- 32:59Of young cooks that are coming up, a lot of people, a lot of
- 33:03people ask me like, hey, someone actually asked me this on my Q&A
- 33:06the other day. They said why are all the young
- 33:09cooks not good anymore? I don't know if I necessarily
- 33:11agree with it. I think I think the expectation
- 33:15is different. I think, I think it's more
- 33:17transparent in the industry now, so people kind of know what it
- 33:19is. But if, if, if you were just
- 33:22advising young cooks in the kitchen, like, hey, you want to,
- 33:24they want to become great chefs, they're just starting out,
- 33:26regardless of what type of kitchen they're going into.
- 33:28What advice would you give a young cook that you wish you
- 33:31had? Sure.
- 33:33I think the one advice, and I think I've been giving this
- 33:35advice for a long time now, is get yourself a passport, get a
- 33:40passport and get up out of here. Yeah, yeah, I would get up out
- 33:43of here. I would take a knife roll with
- 33:46five of my favorite knives and I will go overseas, Asia, Europe,
- 33:53try to spend 6 months and just travel and just cook and just
- 33:57cook bro. You got to find why you're
- 34:01cooking and I think that's the only way you can really find it.
- 34:05You can't find it in these these hard nosed kitchens in New York
- 34:08or San Francisco or Austin, TX. Like that's not it.
- 34:13I think people are forgetting why people cook.
- 34:16You know why we do this for a living?
- 34:18This is a craft at the end of the day.
- 34:20So blue collar work, you know? So you need to find why you like
- 34:26it and you need to be consistent as it, you know, like times,
- 34:30colors to the best, right? Like you can have all the
- 34:33passion you want, you're up and down every day, but if you're
- 34:35not consistent when you come in, it's not worth it.
- 34:39So I suggest a young cook, you know, don't go to culinary
- 34:43school #1 and you'll get yourself in debt, right #2 go,
- 34:48go travel the world, you know, work at a restaurant for like a
- 34:51year and save money. You know, 6 grand, you'll be 6
- 34:55grand at least. Buy yourself A1 way ticket out
- 34:58and then buy yourself A1 way ticket back in.
- 35:00And I will just travel between the lines and on.
- 35:04As AUS citizen, you get a month at any, any, at any, at any
- 35:09country for free. You don't have to buy a visa,
- 35:12you know what I'm saying? Every country a month, boom, you
- 35:15know, and you can just walk into a kitchen like yo, you need
- 35:17hands and you learn and you learn through that and you learn
- 35:21also through traveling is empathy, which is number one in
- 35:24the kitchen. You know, you need to know how
- 35:27people are going through their lives.
- 35:29You can't, you know, I, I was such a hard guy coming out of
- 35:32these kitchens when I was younger, when I first got my
- 35:35first chef job. Such a such a bad, such a bad
- 35:39way to go about it. What I learned from those guys,
- 35:42I was trying to be with the teams that I was with and, you
- 35:47know, bad people walk out on me and, you know, quit and like
- 35:51never really understood it. And I was like, why they do
- 35:55that? And at a per SE, they can say
- 35:56whatever they want to be when nobody walks out, you know what
- 35:59I'm saying? Like, and so I realized that
- 36:02it's not like that. That's not the real world, you
- 36:04know. So traveling helps me help me
- 36:07with my empathy, but also help me to understand my management
- 36:11style and also like what kind of kitchens I want to run, you
- 36:13know? And so that's what my suggestion
- 36:15is travel, travel, travel, travel, eat, eat, eat.
- 36:20And you know, and then you'll find your voice and then you'll
- 36:22be able to, you know, really create a space where people feel
- 36:26safe too, to find their voice. And that's the most important
- 36:28part, so. How do you how do you recognize
- 36:32young talent in the kitchen, Number one?
- 36:34And then right now you were talking about how when you came
- 36:36out, maybe you you had a little bit of harshness, little bit of
- 36:40a rough edge and you softened it.
- 36:42What is your approach now to dealer with cooks in the
- 36:45kitchen? Yeah.
- 36:48I think what I try to do is, is, is be more of AI, treat it like
- 36:52a a football team, you know? I treat it like a football team.
- 36:56You know, you got to earn, you got to earn your spot here
- 36:58first. You know, you nothing is really
- 37:00given to you, you know. So when we open OCO, I ran it
- 37:04like a training camp, you know, OK, everybody, uniform boom.
- 37:09This is the uniform standards boom, boom, boom, boom, boom,
- 37:13boom. There's the knife standards
- 37:14boom, boom, boom, boom, boom. There's the station standards
- 37:17boom, boom. So we went through the whole
- 37:19thing of how when everything is how you cut the labels, this is
- 37:22how we rotate, this is how we do FIFO, and this is how you clean
- 37:26your station there. As we went through the whole
- 37:28thing and then I noticed this, I noticed guys when they're
- 37:33cleaning, how they work a station, how they fold their
- 37:36towels and how they change their bane in the water, how they
- 37:40change their bane and how to change the water in their
- 37:42positive water. Like all these things I'm
- 37:44noticing. And then I categorized them in
- 37:46my head. And then we have a conversation.
- 37:50This is how much I'm going to pay you and this is what my
- 37:52expectations are. And three months, if you don't
- 37:55meet those expectations, you either can go or you stay with
- 37:59the same pay. So you make a choice, you know
- 38:03what I mean? So they understand those
- 38:04standards. So the great thing about that is
- 38:07you being super transparent with them and then also you giving
- 38:10them benchmarks to meet, you know, three other guys that I'm
- 38:14working with now, we have a special relationship on the side
- 38:18where I'm keeping notes on what they want to learn and what they
- 38:21want to work on while they're with me.
- 38:23And they all agree to stay for a year.
- 38:26And so every three weeks now the third week is a check, check in
- 38:31Mark and we'll see where they're at.
- 38:33And then I might add more work on top of their work that
- 38:35they're doing, doing regularly to increase the productivity for
- 38:40my side. But also at the same time to
- 38:42make sure that we're checking out the list that they that they
- 38:44wanted to learn what they worked with me.
- 38:45So you you said. Something earlier that I I geek
- 38:47out on. So my whole chef's PSA is like
- 38:49attention to detail and things like that.
- 38:51So you talked about uniform standards, the knives, the towel
- 38:55and the way they cut the tape, how long, etcetera.
- 38:57What are those standards in your?
- 38:58I'm just curious because I, I, I geek out all that stuff.
- 39:01So I mean. So let's start with the U1.
- 39:03Sure. Right now our uniforms are black
- 39:06pants, black, black shoes, a blue apron, the Bregard blue.
- 39:11Bregard blue. Yeah.
- 39:12Just to just to remind me, they got the new one now.
- 39:14Yeah. From Chef.
- 39:15'S chef's warehouse yeah yeah, yeah so they.
- 39:18It has the pocket, but now they have the old one, but it's a
- 39:20different material that's not the same it.
- 39:21Doesn't it doesn't fade out like these?
- 39:23The old ones too? Yeah.
- 39:24But that's cool though. Yeah.
- 39:26But you know, then chef cooks, cooks jacket, dishwasher jacket,
- 39:32and then they have a bandana and then volume 2 is going to be
- 39:36green shirt, blue apron, and I'm going to give them a hat.
- 39:40What do you mean volume? 2 when we when.
- 39:42We switch over our uniforms. Yeah, got it.
- 39:45So I, I, I do uniform changes every four months.
- 39:48Got it. So next quarter we're going to
- 39:50change it to a new uniform for them.
- 39:51Why? Why do you do that?
- 39:52Just to give everybody. Fresh shoes are just a fresh.
- 39:54T-shirt Yeah, fresh. T-shirt or like something else
- 39:57different or the apron changes or it keeps it keeps.
- 40:00I feel like it keeps the. The cooks prideful of, of their,
- 40:05of their things, but also perception wise, the kitchen's
- 40:09also kind of open right now. So perception wise, people that
- 40:12have eaten there in the beginning to now can see that
- 40:15there's a change. And there's also like there's
- 40:17like a click in their heads. It's like, oh, there must be
- 40:20something going on in the kitchen.
- 40:22So the dishes also come out a little different, like stuff
- 40:24like that. So I like to like keep
- 40:26everything moving in that sense and also creating a space for
- 40:30people to be themselves. You know, the more the more we
- 40:33be more ourselves. I think the food comes out
- 40:35tasting better, you know, So you change the T-shirt.
- 40:38And you change the bandana every four months?
- 40:39Every four months, Yeah, Is. There like a.
- 40:43Just a blank T-shirt or can they have?
- 40:44Well, we're going to. Do a rock band.
- 40:46No, we're going to do we're. Going to do Tang look, we're
- 40:48going to we're going to do a OCO, Oco shirts, OK, Yeah.
- 40:52So we're going to create a thing for them and then they're going
- 40:55to wear as a uniform. Yeah, I like that.
- 40:58Idea that's interesting. And and then you said the knives
- 41:01have to be a certain way. What do you mean by that?
- 41:03Well. In in regards to what they chop
- 41:08with and what they they use it everyday, yeah.
- 41:10So it's. Intentional.
- 41:11Yes, it's intentional. So I.
- 41:12Got I tell them that you have to have at least three knives,
- 41:15right. One is your chef knife, which is
- 41:16your everyday, you know, get it done kind of knife, one
- 41:20vegetable knife when you need to do like specific cuts with
- 41:24chives and scallions and like, you know, shift from that things
- 41:27in the station, you need enough for that.
- 41:29And then a slicer, if you have a slice of meat and all that kind
- 41:33of stuff. I always have as part of our
- 41:35kits, a bread knife, a microplane and all that on my
- 41:39station already. So they need to use any of that
- 41:41stuff. But those three knives are
- 41:44always prevalent in the kitchen because we do a lot of herb work
- 41:48or garnishes, right. And so, yeah, I, I, I try to
- 41:52just tell them those are the three you need to have and, and,
- 41:56and Japanese, obviously, or they can buy the Filipino knives
- 42:00that, that my, my friend owns called Nationale in the
- 42:04Philippines. I'll give them a little
- 42:05discount. And so, and also when they first
- 42:08came in with me, this was the, this was how I was giving them
- 42:12their, their uniform. It was a a white apron for prep,
- 42:17the blue apron for service, the bandana Coon, spoon, tweezers,
- 42:25and then four towels. And I said this is going to be
- 42:28every day your situation. So everybody knows they get 4
- 42:32towels a day. They need to have their spoon,
- 42:35their tweezer on their station. They can have more spoons if
- 42:37they want to. And then they do prep work in
- 42:40the white aprons and then it turns to the blue for service.
- 42:42So the aprons do they? Wash themselves or yeah, they
- 42:45wash them, they take them off. But the towels, no.
- 42:48No, not we have no what? What's the standard?
- 42:50Fold for the towels there. You got to keep them folded.
- 42:52Yeah, yeah. It's just, it's just you don't
- 42:54cross. And then three, three by three.
- 42:56Yeah, yeah, three by. That's the same.
- 42:57Thing I So you have to cover your palm?
- 42:59Yeah. That's why I tried telling you
- 43:00need to have it at least to cover your palm so when you grab
- 43:02something hot, you end up burning yourself.
- 43:04You know what I mean? Yeah.
- 43:06So you said uniform style and then what's the, what's the tape
- 43:09standard green or blue? Green for sure.
- 43:11Yeah, green. Green stands out more, and also
- 43:13green sticks to the thing better than the blue.
- 43:15Do you have a specific? Brand you use, we use.
- 43:18A frog, the frog tape, whatever. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 43:21It's funny. I used to be a blue.
- 43:22Tape Guy For a long time, it was a little, it was a little bit
- 43:24cheaper. And then I was helping out a
- 43:26friend in Puerto Rico and it was kind of a screwed up kitchen,
- 43:30but they didn't have any light bulbs in the walk in and they
- 43:33used green tape. And then I realized they used
- 43:35green tape because it was easier to read in the dark.
- 43:37I was like, that was the only thing I did is like, OK, I'm
- 43:39going to switch, I'll switch it. So I, I, I converted to green
- 43:42tape after that and my, my thing was always like short, you know,
- 43:46lay bread. Date.
- 43:48Initial date initial. Correct.
- 43:49Yeah. And then we used tape
- 43:51dispensers. We were cutting them before, but
- 43:53I said tape dispensers is better.
- 43:55So sufficient. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm a.
- 43:57I'm a tape dispenser guy myself. What about?
- 44:01What about? Music.
- 44:01You play music in the kitchen, I.
- 44:03Used to be a music guy, but I used to do it just because I
- 44:06wanted to make sure that it was like, you know how you go to
- 44:09training not in the military and do like live, live gunfire.
- 44:13So what it's like play it super loud so they can like hear my
- 44:17voice through all that noise when I'm calling tickets.
- 44:21But that was kind of kind of maniacal.
- 44:22So I was like, you know what, we're just going to turn
- 44:25everything off. And so it's just a it's just a
- 44:27quiet kitchen. Whether they want to play music
- 44:30when they're cleaning down at night, that's fine.
- 44:33But in your kitchen, you. Can hear the music inside the
- 44:34dining room, Yes. So, yeah, so I wouldn't, I
- 44:36wouldn't want to have the music on anyways, you know, that's it.
- 44:39I'm. Not a person I get a lot of shit
- 44:42for. I like, I'm not, I'm not a fan
- 44:43of music in the kitchen 'cause I got I'm like not quiet focus.
- 44:48But that's just me. I know a lot Like no, no, I like
- 44:50the me personally, I don't especially because for me it's
- 44:53like I've seen people get into fist fights over the music, you
- 44:56know, it's like I want cumbias and I want this.
- 44:58It's like they. They start fighting.
- 45:00I've had to break up fights and I'm like, you know what?
- 45:02It's not worth it. Yeah.
- 45:03And, and honestly, most people don't want to listen to what I
- 45:05want to listen. Yeah, exactly.
- 45:06I. Want to listen to HIP?
- 45:06Hop or something like that. I don't want to listen to this,
- 45:08but I want to ask you so. Of all the great chefs, and we
- 45:13talked about this the other day when Rogelio was here, but I
- 45:17asked this question to a lot of chefs.
- 45:19If you had to name some 4 chefs that are on the route, the Mount
- 45:23Rushmore of chefs that had the biggest impact on your career
- 45:27for you, who would they be? Wolf, that's tough for me, all
- 45:37right. Obviously when there was Zeppy
- 45:40Zombie on there for me, he gave me an opportunity to go to
- 45:43Europe and and, and be part of that.
- 45:45That's 1-2 would be a chef mentor of mine that passed.
- 45:53His name is Maximo Tejada. He was part of the local Latino
- 45:58cuisine movement in New York in the early 2000s.
- 46:03He was a He's a mentor of mine. I will go, I will go.
- 46:16I will go. My other chef that I had that I
- 46:18worked with name is Mehdi Brinkley.
- 46:20He worked out all the Open, the Cucheron in Montreal for 10
- 46:23years. And he taught me a lot, a lot, a
- 46:26lot. A lot about awful and no steel
- 46:29cooking #4 I'm a big, big, big fan of of Anthony Birthday for
- 46:41sure. Yeah.
- 46:42I mean, did you ever meet? Him I never got to.
- 46:44And that's the that's the one thing I kind of regret.
- 46:46I never got the chance to meet him.
- 46:49Sucks. But I think for us cooks that
- 46:52came up in 2000s to like 2016, Anthony Bourdain was like our
- 46:58guy, you know what I'm saying? You know, a hard nosed guy came
- 47:03from nothing worked in, you know, French presserie places
- 47:08and just be like this no name chef in the back, you know, but
- 47:12his words and the way he spoke about our craft was the way I
- 47:16like to talk about our craft. And on the way I like to to tell
- 47:20people the way I see it, you know.
- 47:24And so he influenced me a lot too with traveling and his TV
- 47:27shows and stuff like that. And and so I think I didn't
- 47:31that's that's the for for me. Yeah, it wasn't.
- 47:33It was no. Bullshit.
- 47:34Yeah, it was no bullshit. You know, it's funny.
- 47:36With, with, with Bourdain. You I I was just listening to
- 47:40his books again recently and I, I listen to media raw and I
- 47:44forget like I write books. I like to write, but I'm like,
- 47:47fuck not. Not only was he smart and and
- 47:49and knew how to speak the language of of the people.
- 47:53But technically he was a. Really good writer like like he,
- 47:57he knew how to he knew how to put words together to tell
- 48:00stories. Like fucking storyteller, but
- 48:02the best. I mean, yeah, I.
- 48:03Mean, I think our chefs are also storytellers, right?
- 48:06Yeah. We have to tell a story of the
- 48:07food of you. We can't sell it.
- 48:09You know what I mean? Right.
- 48:10Well, I think I I think, yeah, you're right.
- 48:13Like those type of things, like you never knew, right?
- 48:16Like, I think Britain is a great writer, storyteller.
- 48:19Like you would never get a chance to know that if he didn't
- 48:22take that leap of faith to do to do what he did, right.
- 48:25Yeah. And what?
- 48:26Made him so relatable is the stories that he was telling is
- 48:30like that's my story. You know, like everyone like now
- 48:32that that's that's his story, but it's my story.
- 48:35We shared the same story, I think.
- 48:38Yeah, Bourdains the he's the goat, right?
- 48:42I like to. Usually close the the the
- 48:45podcast with some some random questions.
- 48:47So if you. Had a chef's PSA out there
- 48:50people needed like. The cooks need to stop.
- 48:53Doing this or they need to start doing this?
- 48:54What? What is some advice you'd give
- 48:56them? I think.
- 48:58I don't know, other people say it all the time, but I think it
- 49:00used to be related is don't be scared.
- 49:06Don't be scared to fail. Yeah, You know what I mean?
- 49:09Don't be scared to get fired from a job.
- 49:11Don't be scared to, like, cook something raw.
- 49:15Don't be scared to like overcook something like this is what it
- 49:19is about, you know, like you're only going to learn if you
- 49:23don't, if you're not better than what you was yesterday, you know
- 49:26what I mean? So I will go 2 feet in and dive
- 49:32into something wholeheartedly instead of just tiptoeing around
- 49:35it, you know? And, and I think some people,
- 49:41you know, they come into the gang and they think that, you
- 49:44know, oh, I'm going to be this media chef or I'm going to be a
- 49:48celebrity chef. I want to do all this stuff like
- 49:51you don't understand what it took for Bobby Fayette to get
- 49:53there. They just, they just see.
- 49:55The end result, right? You don't know what?
- 49:56It took for Rocco the spirit of the get there.
- 49:58You don't know what it took for Danielle to get there or any of
- 50:01that sort, right? And most of these guys on their
- 50:04way out anyways, because it's it's they're getting old now,
- 50:07you know what I'm saying? So you don't know what it took
- 50:10to get there, you know, So you know, you got to earn, you got
- 50:13to earn it, earn their stripes and earn, earn their respect.
- 50:18And then all the other stuff is going to fall into place.
- 50:21But I think not being scared to fail should be one of those
- 50:25things that young cooks and and anybody that wants them to get
- 50:28into the culinary game. Because, you know, that's why I
- 50:32love about the restaurant business is black and white
- 50:34always. You either got it or you don't
- 50:37got it. You know what I'm saying?
- 50:38Right, right. I, I I.
- 50:39Say to people, it's like there's social currency in the kitchen,
- 50:42the only social currency that matters when it's busiest.
- 50:44Can you cook? That's it.
- 50:45But no one cares. Like, oh, I went to this school
- 50:47or my girlfriend or boyfriend looks like this, or I drive like
- 50:50none of that. Nobody cares, no.
- 50:51One fucking cares. Did you get the?
- 50:53Food out. Does it taste good?
- 50:54That's I said. Hot food, hot food, cold food,
- 50:56cold food, you know what I'm saying?
- 50:58So I think that's it, man. And and, you know, some people
- 51:02don't get it. And some people, you know, think
- 51:04that it's supposed to be given to them.
- 51:06And I think some of, you know, some of the young cooks now feel
- 51:09that way. But they have to, they have to,
- 51:12they have to, they have to earn it, you know, you have to really
- 51:14earn it. Yeah.
- 51:15How do you how do? You teach that to people because
- 51:17you're right, a lot of people live into something from out the
- 51:20world. They, they expect it and, and
- 51:24then they get shocked when they get into the industry and they
- 51:27realize they do have to earn it. And then they say, well, I went
- 51:29to culinary school, but so did everyone else.
- 51:32And you're like, so it's the So what?
- 51:36How do you, how do you coach that into someone out there?
- 51:40Just. Pull one of my Garmo guys and
- 51:42say, you see this guy right here?
- 51:44He was a dishwasher last week and he comes to work on time.
- 51:52His uniform is always clean, his station's always clean.
- 51:56His knives are always sharp. His, his, his, his, his towels
- 52:01are always folded. And I just kind of just have an
- 52:04example in the kitchen. And I always say, you know,
- 52:08like, some, some people too, man.
- 52:09Like I have two guys that just came here two months ago, like
- 52:13traveled, like, you know, went through all that to get here.
- 52:17And I, and I explained that to them.
- 52:18I'm like, you shouldn't have any issues working in this kitchen
- 52:22right now. Yeah, these guys walk here to
- 52:26come and do a get a better life. You were born here.
- 52:30And and and and if you're telling me that you don't know
- 52:33how to change palm sugar that's rock into a liquid, there's a
- 52:39problem. All right, If you're telling me
- 52:42you can't do that, there's a problem because not only that's
- 52:46that's relevant, you can Google it literally in your hand.
- 52:51You got to figure it out. So don't tell me that can't
- 52:54happen, you know, and and you know, that happened last week.
- 52:57But anyways, then, you know, those are the type of things I
- 53:00try to do in the kitchen is like show an example and have
- 53:03somebody that that I kind of promoted came up and like, look,
- 53:07look what he's doing now. Last week he was washing your
- 53:09dishes. He's right next to you now,
- 53:11right? That's all He's like, oh, OK, I
- 53:13got it. So I was like, yeah, so.
- 53:15So I. Do a a weekly Q&A on the chef's
- 53:17PSA Instagram. But I took my cigar sunde and I
- 53:21got asked a question that I thought it was interesting.
- 53:24Not that the question was interesting, but it made me
- 53:26think about an interesting example.
- 53:28So they asked me like, what's something that I've seen in high
- 53:31end kitchens that people don't talk about?
- 53:33And I remember I remembered I was like, oh shit, I've never
- 53:36talked about this before, but I talked about it on, on the Q&A
- 53:40is that I've worked with chefs that have come from, I won't say
- 53:42where, but some very serious 3 Michelin star kitchens in France
- 53:46that would put food coloring in their purees all day yellow.
- 53:50And the and the. Corn, red and the red, green and
- 53:53the green. It's like, and I remember when I
- 53:55first saw, it was like, I saw someone do.
- 53:56I was like, did you just. And they're like, yeah, we what
- 53:58do you like? He looked at me like I was an
- 54:00idiot when I was calling him out.
- 54:01But besides that, is there something else that you've seen
- 54:06that people would be like, fuck, they do that in the in the like,
- 54:09like what? What is one of those things that
- 54:10people would be shocked if they found out?
- 54:12Yeah, frozen peas. Man.
- 54:16Frozen peas for puree the. Sweeter, the sweeter and they,
- 54:18they, they maintain the color, you know, I mean a lot of
- 54:22things, man, like, you know, I feel like it's such a so hard to
- 54:27work in those kitchens and you have to stay up always.
- 54:30Everything has to be perfect. And if you, if you don't find
- 54:34little ways to get ahead or little ways of getting a little
- 54:38thing here and that you're going to fall behind.
- 54:40And, and, and I learned that the hard way when purees were a
- 54:45situation for me and I was working on trimette.
- 54:47And you know what, that chef, he makes the, the dots big.
- 54:52That chef makes the dots small. So whoever works to pass, I can
- 54:56tell how many orders I have in one bottle, Right, right.
- 54:59And so I would always be watching like, OK, that guy's
- 55:01working. I need to get another puree
- 55:03started. Warmed up.
- 55:06So by the time he gets to the bottom of that bottle, I'm free
- 55:09filling it already. Doesn't say none to me.
- 55:11A little stuff like that, you know what I'm saying?
- 55:13Like you just got to, you know, like I said, food coloring thing
- 55:16is hilarious because yeah, every every, every, every European
- 55:20kitchen does that. Yeah, yeah, it's funny it.
- 55:21Was it's also like truffle oil? Like I I know chefs settle like
- 55:25they're shaving truffles, but they have to put a couple of
- 55:27drops in the whatever dish, little drops of truffle oil.
- 55:31Because if not, people say this doesn't taste romantic.
- 55:33The romantics too. Yeah.
- 55:34Yeah, there was the truffle. Flavor.
- 55:35These truffles aren't good. Like no, you just don't know
- 55:37what truffles taste like because most people think it tastes like
- 55:39truffle oil, right? Right, last, last question,
- 55:43chef, you were talking about your buddies knives.
- 55:48What is? Like if if you look at your,
- 55:50your tool kit, knives, spoons, tweezers, whatever tools that
- 55:54you have in your, in your thing, like what's the one thing that's
- 55:57like, everybody should have one of these like that, not the
- 56:02obvious, not the chef's like, like what's the other thing that
- 56:04people, the underutilized tool that people don't use enough?
- 56:07Are they a petty knife? Petty.
- 56:09A sharp, petty knife, Yeah. You can survive any kitchen,
- 56:12bro, you know what I'm saying? Like you don't break down
- 56:15rabbits with that. You can break down fish.
- 56:17You can break down then do your, your, your, your little, you
- 56:21know, your little herb work you can do.
- 56:25You don't cut things, you know what I mean?
- 56:27Like on the station. But a penny knife.
- 56:29I think it's it's it's one of my favorite knives.
- 56:33I have three of those and I always keep them sharp and all,
- 56:35like. And and you when you're doing
- 56:37like adventure stuff, you don't want to bring your big old chef
- 56:40knife, you know, bring a little roll with with your petty knife
- 56:43and couple spoons like boom, you're good.
- 56:45You know what I'm saying? So it's the most it's the most
- 56:48it's a utility. That's why it's called utility
- 56:49knife was you use it for everything.
- 56:51So I love AI, love a great petty knife chef.
- 56:54Where? Can people find you?
- 56:56Probably here in Austin, TX. OCO on E 6th St.
- 57:00Find me on Instagram. Chef Harold Villa Rosa and I'm.
- 57:04I'm all over, man. Just just look up.
- 57:06Yeah, well, it's good seeing you, Chef.
- 57:07Thank you so much for your. Time.
- 57:08Thank you. Well, I hope you enjoyed the.
- 57:10Show let me know what you think comment down below.
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