Latest / The Science of Skin / Exploring the Future of Skincare

Transcript

Exploring the Future of Skincare · The Science of Skin

0:05
SPEAKER_01: Hello, everyone.
0:06
SPEAKER_01: I'm Dr.
0:06
SPEAKER_01: Patty Ferris.
0:07
SPEAKER_01: I'm a board certified dermatologist, and I'm here today with my co-host for Skincare Confidential, Dr.
0:13
SPEAKER_01: Ted Lane, coming live from Austin, Texas.
0:16
SPEAKER_00: Awesome.
0:17
SPEAKER_00: Austin, rainy Austin.
0:18
SPEAKER_00: I don't know what's going on.
0:19
SPEAKER_00: We're not used to that in the summer.
0:21
SPEAKER_01: No, for sure not.
0:22
SPEAKER_01: And and P.S.
0:23
SPEAKER_01: were both super jet-lagged because we're just coming off of a week in London, which was amazing.
0:28
SPEAKER_01: And that's what we're going to talk about today.
0:30
SPEAKER_01: Very excited.
0:31
SPEAKER_01: We're going to do a little bit of a recap, right?
0:33
SPEAKER_01: About what some of the talks that we had at the FACE conference in London.
0:37
SPEAKER_01: They were, I thought, so well done.
0:40
SPEAKER_01: I hope we can do them justice.
0:43
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, we were lucky enough to bring uh some American U.S.-based dermatology speakers over to London to help us give a cosmosceuticals masterclass at the FACE conference, which is a 20-year conference now that's been held in London.
0:57
SPEAKER_00: And it really focuses on the non-surgical aesthetic patients.
1:01
SPEAKER_00: So we were able to give presentations to, my goodness, aesthetic physicians from all over Europe, if not the world.
1:08
SPEAKER_00: It was quite a diverse group of people in our that participated in our conference.
1:13
SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
1:14
SPEAKER_01: And we were blessed to have a full room, which was great.
1:18
SPEAKER_01: We had quite quite a good attendance.
1:19
SPEAKER_01: So it shows you the interest in skincare and cosmeceuticals is alive and well all over the world, not just here in the U.S.
1:27
SPEAKER_00: Well, why don't we jump right into it, Patty?
1:29
SPEAKER_00: I think the first lecture that was given was actually yours.
1:31
SPEAKER_00: It was mine.
1:32
SPEAKER_01: And it was sponsored by ZO Skin Health, and it was a lecture on growth factors.
1:37
SPEAKER_01: And, you know, as always, Ted, when I give a lecture, I learn so much.
1:40
SPEAKER_01: I know you do too.
1:42
SPEAKER_01: And, you know, I kind of started out by saying there are really four types of growth factors that you find in skin care products.
1:48
SPEAKER_01: You have the allogenaic growth factors.
1:50
SPEAKER_01: Those are the ones that come from cells in culture, usually fibroblasts or stem cells.
1:57
SPEAKER_01: And when the stem cells are secreting or the fibroblasts are secreting what we now refer to as the secretome, we harvest that secretome and that becomes the ingredient.
2:06
SPEAKER_01: And the interesting thing is that the secretome contains growth factors, but it also contains lots of other things.
2:13
SPEAKER_01: It contains cytokines, it contains a variety of molecules that are biologically active, but it also contains vesicles, extracellular vesicles like exosomes.
2:24
SPEAKER_01: So these products we used to call growth factor products.
2:27
SPEAKER_01: They have growth factors, but they also contain a vesicular component.
2:31
SPEAKER_01: So I thought that that was super interesting.
2:34
SPEAKER_01: Another thing that I discussed is the fact that manipulating the microenvironment, the actual way that you're growing the cells, changes the secretome.
2:43
SPEAKER_01: And they showed this by depriving the cells of oxygen, putting them in a very hypoxic environment, completely changed the exosomes, increased the number of exosomes, actually, and also changed the secretome, different growth factors, just a different profile.
2:59
SPEAKER_01: So just a very interesting category of products, and we all know there's lots of them in the market.
3:04
SPEAKER_01: Probably the most famous is TNS, which has been in the market and was the first one.
3:08
SPEAKER_01: I think it came out here in around 2001.
3:11
SPEAKER_01: Then I talked a little bit about autologous growth factors, and there are a company that's using autologous growth factors.
3:17
SPEAKER_01: So I said, think of this as PRP meat skincare.
3:21
SPEAKER_01: You go into the office, you get your own platelet-rich plasma prepared, and that gets made into a skincare product.
3:28
SPEAKER_01: And that's a pretty cool and an innovative way to harvest growth factors and autologous growth factors.
3:35
SPEAKER_01: And that's the SOME product, which is in the marketplace and has been for quite some time now.
3:41
SPEAKER_01: And then, of course, there are recombinant growth factors, epidermal growth factor primarily.
3:47
SPEAKER_01: These are growth factors that are made in laboratory, and they're used primarily for wound healing and in the post-procedure setting.
3:54
SPEAKER_01: And then I finished the talk with what I think is on the horizon, and that is plant-based growth factors.
4:01
SPEAKER_01: And those plant-based growth factors are found in the ZO growth factor serum.
4:07
SPEAKER_01: And I found this totally fascinating because they used a variety of innovative botanicals that could actually influence growth factors like TGF beta, influencing things like hyaluronic acid synthetase.
4:21
SPEAKER_01: So they were boosting that extracellular matrix using these very innovative botanicals like ginseng extract, for example.
4:29
SPEAKER_01: And they did a really nice clinical study on their growth factor product, and they looked at patients over 12 weeks who used it, and they found statistically significant improvement in all the parameters: lines and wrinkles, elasticity, radiance, firmness, you know, all kinds of uh interesting clinical parameters.
4:47
SPEAKER_01: But they also, and I said what really impressed me was the ultrasound data.
4:52
SPEAKER_01: That ultrasound data really shows you how well this plant-based uh product influences the extracellular matrix.
5:01
SPEAKER_01: You saw that increase in echogenicity, which to us means the skin is getting thicker and plumper and uh it's boosting that extracellular matrix.
5:10
SPEAKER_01: And that's sometimes a really hard thing to prove.
5:13
SPEAKER_01: And when people tell me, oh, we're gonna do ultrasounds, I always go, good luck, because they're not easy to make to make a difference in.
5:20
SPEAKER_01: But this particular product performed very, very well.
5:23
SPEAKER_01: So I think we're gonna see more, and I think you'd agree with me of these plant-based products.
5:27
SPEAKER_01: We're seeing in the exocell market, and now we're seeing it uh as well in the growth factor products.
5:33
SPEAKER_01: So that that was sort of a recap on that talk.
5:36
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, uh, it was a wonderful talk, Patty.
5:39
SPEAKER_00: And I think when I when you started talking about stressing the stem cells, it made me think of those snails.
5:46
SPEAKER_00: Do you remember how they would stress the snails to make them to get them to make more snail music?
5:53
SPEAKER_01: Super interesting.
5:55
SPEAKER_01: So uh just caught we should probably tell our audience that Ted and I met over snails.
6:01
SPEAKER_01: And maybe with snails and a lot of Alberino.
6:05
SPEAKER_01: We have two factors going that week.
6:09
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, we were in Spain for a skincare trip for a company called Cantabria that um very cool.
6:20
SPEAKER_01: I can say when we did that trip, nobody even talked about snail mucin.
6:23
SPEAKER_01: Now it's literally the second, you know, most popular ingredient in skincare.
6:27
SPEAKER_01: It's super popular.
6:29
SPEAKER_00: But it's the same idea, right?
6:31
SPEAKER_00: Not a human-based, but animal-derived growth factors that that affect human skin, much like the plants.
6:37
SPEAKER_00: And so we've been using non-human-derived growth factors for a long time.
6:41
SPEAKER_00: And yeah, exosomes make total sense that they would work from plant-based.
6:44
SPEAKER_00: If they work from animal-based, they're probably gonna work from plant-based.
6:47
SPEAKER_01: So absolutely.
6:48
SPEAKER_01: So we're gonna see more and more, I think, of you know, there are some tre there is trepidation about human-derived anything, growth factors, exosomes.
6:57
SPEAKER_01: So this kind of you know gets rid of that potential, potential problem.
7:03
SPEAKER_00: The um the next lecture that was given was by Dr.
7:06
SPEAKER_00: Tots Lessinger, who just did a great job reviewing peptides.
7:09
SPEAKER_00: And that the lecture title was Peptide Power, Tiny Molecules, Mighty Skin Results.
7:14
SPEAKER_00: And this was sponsored by our friends at Hydrinity.
7:17
SPEAKER_00: Um, Hydrinity really, I think, is best known for their wonderful hyaluronic acid-based products, but but boy, they're pushing the needle now.
7:25
SPEAKER_00: And they've got a new product coming out that it includes peptides, obviously.
7:31
SPEAKER_00: They were they sponsored the peptide lecture.
7:33
SPEAKER_00: So it includes peptides, which as we know are, you know, they can be both biologically active themselves, they can act as signaling molecules as well.
7:42
SPEAKER_00: Um, and so peptides, which are you know, short chains of amino acids, multiple peptides form a protein, for example.
7:50
SPEAKER_00: Um, so we we had a great lecture reviewing the just a comprehensive overview of the peptides that are commonly used in skincare and showing some of the data from, in particular, the new hydrinity product, which we're excited to to launch soon.
8:05
SPEAKER_00: Uh, and following that, Dr.
8:07
SPEAKER_00: Cheryl Burgess uh gave a wonderful talk sponsored by Beiersdorf called Turning Back the Epigenetic Clock.
8:14
SPEAKER_00: And I just found this very interesting.
8:16
SPEAKER_00: Patty, you and I have had the fortune to be uh a little bit involved in the in the genesis of this this new product from Beiersdorf that includes a novel ingredient that targets the epigenome.
8:29
SPEAKER_00: And the epigenome is is what turns certain genes on and off.
8:33
SPEAKER_00: You could think of it as kind of the director of our of the genetic makeup of each cell.
8:39
SPEAKER_00: So, for example, if you think about it, all of our cells have the exact same genes.
8:42
SPEAKER_00: We all have the exact same chromosomes in all of our cells, yet some cells become liver cells, some cells become brain cells, etc.
8:49
SPEAKER_00: How does that happen?
8:50
SPEAKER_00: Well, it's all based on the epigenome.
8:52
SPEAKER_00: And unfortunately, as we age, the epigenome becomes less efficient in turning on and off certain genes.
8:58
SPEAKER_00: And we can measure aging of the epigenome through methylation, which is methyl groups that have attached to the epigenome.
9:06
SPEAKER_00: And uh what Beiersdorf has shown is that with their new ingredient uh in their product, that they can affect the methylation of the epigenome and and turn back the epigenetic clock, which I mean there's so many amazing things to talk about within that.
9:21
SPEAKER_00: That's a whole episode in and of itself.
9:23
SPEAKER_01: And that we really should do one on that because that's such an interesting subject, and it's a complicated subject.
9:28
SPEAKER_01: So maybe we get somebody from who's really in the space scientifically and and doing research in the space to go over it.
9:37
SPEAKER_01: It was a great talk, and we appreciate them sponsoring.
9:41
SPEAKER_01: They're doing a lot of good work.
9:43
SPEAKER_00: Uh, and then our next talk was by our friend Dr.
9:46
SPEAKER_00: Giuseppe Velocki.
9:48
SPEAKER_00: Patty, if you want to review the Atopogac antioxidants.
9:51
SPEAKER_01: Unbelievable.
9:51
SPEAKER_01: Antioxidants with Giuseppe Velocki is like putting you in the outer space.
9:55
SPEAKER_01: It's unbelievable.
9:57
SPEAKER_01: The guy knows so much.
9:58
SPEAKER_01: I I literally have to concentrate so hard.
10:01
SPEAKER_01: And I think I know a lot about antioxidants, but he's unbelievable.
10:06
SPEAKER_01: You know, he's done so much good work with the exposome and the role of antioxidants in protecting us from environmental aggressors.
10:14
SPEAKER_01: And his area of expertise is really pollutants, although he does UV, he does mixed combination UV and pollutant assault on the skin.
10:24
SPEAKER_01: He's just done so much good work.
10:25
SPEAKER_01: And he frames it up in a way that I think really explains, and I like the fact, Ted, that he mentions, you know, not all oxidative stress is a bad thing.
10:36
SPEAKER_01: And you don't really want to wipe out all oxidative stress.
10:39
SPEAKER_01: The goal, the goal is to keep, you know, to keep it under control and not to let it run away.
10:46
SPEAKER_01: But, you know, there's there's good and bad of everything.
10:50
SPEAKER_01: And so I I like the way he framed that up.
10:52
SPEAKER_01: I also like when he talks about it's almost as important if we upregulate that nerf two pathway, which helps us make our own enzymatic antioxidants.
11:02
SPEAKER_01: And that can be done with many of the plant-based antioxidants, the polyphenols, for example, upregulate the nerf two pathway, and the carotenoids do as well.
11:10
SPEAKER_01: So he talks about yes, vitamin C is sort of the gold standard and it functions as an antioxidant in and of itself.
11:17
SPEAKER_01: But also the best thing we can do is really boost our own intrinsic antioxidants, and that can be done with nutritional supplements as well as topicals.
11:26
SPEAKER_01: And again, I couldn't even begin to paraphrase everything that he said in that 20-minute talk, but I I think that's a it was really just so well done and so clinically relevant for us.
11:38
SPEAKER_01: And we're super excited because we have him coming to the summit this year again.
11:42
SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
11:42
SPEAKER_00: And you know, that talk was sponsored by Illumia MD.
11:45
SPEAKER_00: They um, as you mentioned, he's an expert in pollutants and and they have a new sunscreen that is out that uh not only has antioxidants in it, but it has this novel capturing uh mechanism where it prevents pollutants from actually hitting the skin.
12:01
SPEAKER_00: And you know, I learned something there, Patty.
12:03
SPEAKER_00: I mean, I always learn something from Dr.
12:05
SPEAKER_00: Velocki, but I learned that that the pollutants are not actually the problem.
12:09
SPEAKER_00: It's all the aeryl hydrocarbons that are attached to the pollutants that are the issue.
12:13
SPEAKER_01: They're almost like a carrier molecule, they're a Trojan horse, is what they're a Trojan horse.
12:16
SPEAKER_00: There you go.
12:17
SPEAKER_01: They're a Trojan horse.
12:19
SPEAKER_00: And so capturing them before they hit the skin is just kind of a brilliant way of going about it.
12:23
SPEAKER_00: And that's what these this new um sunscreen from Illumier MD does.
12:27
SPEAKER_00: So I learned.
12:32
SPEAKER_01: Kudos to them.
12:33
SPEAKER_00: I'm gonna have you kind of cover the next one, Patty, which is leveling up the war on wrinkles with next gen retinoids by Dr.
12:40
SPEAKER_00: Sheree Fry.
12:41
SPEAKER_00: This one was sponsored by Pierre Fob, and you know, she really gave us just a wonderful overview of both, you know, all transretinoic acid, attaching to the retinoic acid receptors and she's so good with retinoids, and she's given this talk for us before, and it's such a good talk.
12:58
SPEAKER_01: And she went through first just the basic retinoid biology, how retinol esters are converted.
13:04
SPEAKER_01: So retinol turns to retinaldehyde, and then how that last step is irreversible.
13:09
SPEAKER_01: And when you get to retinoic acid, you ultimately have the active molecule, which can do all of its magic in the nucleus, attaching to all the retinoid receptors and turning on the transcription factors that make collagen, that reduce the matrix metalloproteases, and that downregulate inflammation.
13:26
SPEAKER_01: And she gave, I think, uh, you know, just a really nice overview of that.
13:31
SPEAKER_01: Retinaldehyde is stronger than retinol, and there's many, you know, there's always a trade-off for everything.
13:38
SPEAKER_01: So the more potent the retinoid becomes, the more likely it is to irritate.
13:42
SPEAKER_01: But there's lots of really nice formulations now in both retinol and retinaldehyde that I think really do give us the advantage of being very tolerable.
13:52
SPEAKER_01: Retinoic acid, I think, in a lot of ways has fallen a little bit to the wayside because we have such good cosmetic retinoids.
13:59
SPEAKER_01: It's hard to justify, you know, using retinol, retinol, retin, retinoin or retinoic acid when you can get these nice over-the-counter, inexpensive, very tolerable, and extremely um efficacious cosmetic retinoids.
14:16
SPEAKER_01: She also talked about one of the newer retinoids, which is hydroxypineclone retinoate.
14:21
SPEAKER_01: And I like to mention that one because unlike the other cosmetic retinoids that have to be converted into retinoic acid, hydroxypineclone retinoate or HPR actually can attach and go right into the nucleus and influence those retinoid receptors on its own.
14:38
SPEAKER_01: So there's no conversion necessary there.
14:40
SPEAKER_01: You'll start hearing more about that.
14:42
SPEAKER_01: It's a lot of companies are looking at that molecule because it's an interesting molecule and it's highly effective and doesn't require those steps to convert it to retinoic acid.
14:53
SPEAKER_00: Pierre Fob has a new uh retinoid-based product.
14:57
SPEAKER_00: It's it's a retinaldehyde combined with niacinamide and a novel antioxidant complex.
15:03
SPEAKER_00: And they uh used it alongside uh a laser procedure to show tolerability and efficacy.
15:10
SPEAKER_00: Uh, and it was a really interesting uh trial.
15:13
SPEAKER_00: They used a uh I believe it was a Cyton laser.
15:16
SPEAKER_00: Cyton actually helped support our the the integrated skincare lecture, which I gave the clear skin at the speed of light, maximizing your laser results with smart skincare.
15:26
SPEAKER_00: And they used the aerobium Yag laser from the from the Cyton, and everybody received a full-face um fractionated ablative laser treatment.
15:34
SPEAKER_00: And then after a week in which they were able to kind of re-epithelialize using uh their sycophate uh cream, uh patients were then split face with the novel retinaldehyde-based cream to to vehicle or just a moisturizing cream, and we showed that all the the metrics of of healthy skin and beautiful skin in terms of skin smoothness and texture and and um radiance, all of them actually improved with the use of that novel retinaldehyde-based cream with the niacinamide and the antioxidant.
16:05
SPEAKER_00: So um really nice.
16:07
SPEAKER_01: It's a nice combo.
16:08
SPEAKER_01: Such a nice combo.
16:09
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, it makes a lot of sense, does it?
16:10
SPEAKER_01: It gives you that barrier repairing, it gives you, you know, the nice antioxidant, which has been shown to help with post-procedure in other settings and in other studies, so it's really a nice and they used it immediately post-procedure, didn't they?
16:24
SPEAKER_00: They well, they gave it seven days post- oh, seven days, that's right.
16:28
SPEAKER_00: But I think in the US, we probably would have run that trial probably with using it almost immediately after, yeah, just because we're a little bit more aggressive.
16:35
SPEAKER_00: Um probably.
16:39
SPEAKER_00: But it was very well tolerated uh a week after, and uh they showed really nice results.
16:44
SPEAKER_00: So that's an exciting new uh topical coming from Pierre Fob that I'm gonna do.
16:48
SPEAKER_01: Everybody jumping into the post-procedure space and doing such good work in the in that area.
16:59
SPEAKER_01: Hi, it's Patty.
17:00
SPEAKER_01: I hope you're enjoying this episode.
17:02
SPEAKER_01: And this is just a reminder that the Science of Skin Summit will be held in Austin, Texas, September 5th through the 7th.
17:10
SPEAKER_01: Go to our website, scienceofskinsummit.com, and the registration is open and the agenda is there.
17:18
SPEAKER_01: We'd love to see you there.
17:21
SPEAKER_00: Um, a few more just to kind of review here the bright future of lightning ingredients by Dr.
17:26
SPEAKER_00: Val Callender, who is just a world expert in skin lightning.
17:30
SPEAKER_01: Um who can possibly recapitulate that lecture because it was so comprehensive, and Val did such a great job with it, talking really about all the topicals, all the alternatives to hydroquinone, all of the incredible things we now have, OTC, some of the old favorites she talked about, and then some of the newer molecules too, like topical tranhexamic acid.
17:50
SPEAKER_01: And I mean, she just you know gave such a great talk, and she talked also about oral TXA.
17:57
SPEAKER_00: Umsteamine.
17:59
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, cystiamine.
18:00
SPEAKER_01: She talked about cysteamine, and you know, that's another one that we're seeing coming in to lots of products.
18:07
SPEAKER_01: Um and then why am I blanking on the one that uh thiamidol?
18:11
SPEAKER_01: Oh my goodness, that's a name that just doesn't go in my stay in my head.
18:14
SPEAKER_01: I don't know why.
18:15
SPEAKER_01: I've even written papers on it and I can't keep it in here.
18:19
SPEAKER_01: It's a tough one, but thiamidol is uh really is a lick a magic bullet.
18:24
SPEAKER_01: It is a really good skin lightening agent in the OTC space.
18:28
SPEAKER_01: And we saw some great pictures she showed of patients with actinic lantigenies, patients with uh melasma, all kinds of conditions have been looked at with thiamidol.
18:38
SPEAKER_01: It's been in the European market for I don't know how long, but many years, I know, and it finally came to the U.S.
18:45
SPEAKER_01: So bravo.
18:47
SPEAKER_00: Next lecture was Dr.
18:48
SPEAKER_00: Heather Willary Lloyd, a wonderful friend of ours, who gave another lecture for us on the skin microbiome, the good, the bad, and the wrinkly.
18:57
SPEAKER_00: Um that might be my favorite lecture title that uh I've ever used perplexity to give.
19:05
SPEAKER_01: Thank you, perplexity.
19:07
SPEAKER_00: Exactly.
19:08
SPEAKER_01: It she gave a great overview.
19:09
SPEAKER_01: You know, she defined the terms probiotic, prebiotic, postbiotic, symbiotic, explained exactly how all of those can work.
19:19
SPEAKER_01: She talked a lot about the studies that have been done looking at various um benefits of topical probiotics, and there's quite a bit of literature um in this area.
19:31
SPEAKER_01: Much of it has been done by the cosmetic companies who are looking at treating patients with sensitive skin.
19:36
SPEAKER_01: They've shown that topical probiotics can serve as photoprotectors, they help with barrier repair.
19:43
SPEAKER_01: So there's lots of data suggesting their benefits.
19:47
SPEAKER_01: And the same is true of prebiotics as well as postbiotics.
19:51
SPEAKER_01: The postbiotic lysates are super interesting, contain all kinds of beneficial ingredients, including lactic acid and antimicrobial peptides, all kinds of cool things.
20:03
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
20:05
SPEAKER_00: The reason that she wanted to include the Wrinkly is because the skin microbiome can predict aging of the skin as well, the lack of diversity of the skin microbiome as well.
20:13
SPEAKER_00: That's very cool.
20:15
SPEAKER_00: Very, very cool.
20:16
SPEAKER_00: So um we're gonna and actually that's gonna be given that lecture in the summit is gonna be given by a world's expert, Dr.
20:23
SPEAKER_00: Julia Oh, who is a professor of dermatology at Duke, and um her lab focuses on the microbiome.
20:29
SPEAKER_00: So that'll be cool.
20:31
SPEAKER_00: We're gonna we're gonna learn a lot from from Dr.
20:34
SPEAKER_00: Oh uh on the skin microbiome and all that she's learning as in it as it relates to aging as well.
20:39
SPEAKER_00: Um, the next lecture, uh, another wonderful friend of ours, Dr.
20:43
SPEAKER_00: Vivian Bukay uh from San Antonio, gave the lecture on novel ingredients in skincare.
20:47
SPEAKER_00: And this one was sponsored by Sente, and she really focused on that heparin sulfate analog and all it can do in the skin.
20:55
SPEAKER_00: Uh what an interesting compound, right?
20:57
SPEAKER_00: It's an it's an analog.
20:58
SPEAKER_00: Heparin sulfate is such a huge glycosaminoglycan, it would never penetrate the skin.
21:02
SPEAKER_00: But by by using a very small analog of it, it it does penetrate and it has such amazing uh uh uses for rejuvenating the skin, right, Patty?
21:12
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, you know, she talked about the sulfated gags and and their important importance, and particularly heparan sulfate, because it's not just you know a moisturizer as we think of hyaluronic acid.
21:24
SPEAKER_01: I mean, it really modulates growth factor activity.
21:26
SPEAKER_01: So, sort of going back to the growth factor story we started with, I mean, you have to have heparan sulfate in order to modulate growth factor activity.
21:36
SPEAKER_01: So it's super important for keeping the extracellular matrix.
21:40
SPEAKER_01: It also has anti inflammatory activity.
21:42
SPEAKER_01: So, and I know it's been looked at um pretty extensively as an anti inflammatory molecule.
21:48
SPEAKER_01: So, it, you know, there's not a lot of really unique ingredients in skincare.
21:53
SPEAKER_01: We see a lot of sort of Me Too.
21:55
SPEAKER_01: But that one, when that came out, I thought I don't know anything about this molecule, and I really haven't.
22:00
SPEAKER_01: Had to kind of learn about what the benefits were.
22:03
SPEAKER_01: And I from what Vivian showed us, you know, they've got so many good studies now on using heparin sulfate topically.
22:12
SPEAKER_01: They also, you know, besides using a small fragment, they changed the configuration of it.
22:16
SPEAKER_01: You know, they made this little linear bullet that just can go right down.
22:20
SPEAKER_01: And they've seen it going down into the derma.
22:23
SPEAKER_01: So super interesting.
22:24
SPEAKER_01: And I know she sits on their medical advisory board and she's super knowledgeable on it, way more knowledgeable than I am.
22:30
SPEAKER_01: But but I like the technology.
22:33
SPEAKER_00: Makes so much sense.
22:34
SPEAKER_00: I mean, I I learned so much from that lecture, and I really think of that heparin sulfate analog almost like a cofactor for growth factors.
22:40
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
22:41
SPEAKER_00: That it really helps to allow them to attach to the cell surface and hone in on the keratinoside.
22:46
SPEAKER_00: So um it's such an interesting ingredient, isn't it?
22:50
SPEAKER_00: And and I don't know that we have anything really like that in skincare.
22:54
SPEAKER_01: That's why I'm saying it's really very novel.
22:56
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
22:56
SPEAKER_01: There's not any other thing like it.
23:00
SPEAKER_01: Super interesting.
23:01
SPEAKER_00: They've got a really fully fledged line now where they've got sunscreens and moisturizers and cleansers, and it's just it's a Sente is a.
23:09
SPEAKER_01: It's a great, it's a great line.
23:10
SPEAKER_01: You and I are both fans.
23:12
SPEAKER_01: We've always liked it.
23:12
SPEAKER_01: We've always liked it.
23:13
SPEAKER_00: We're fans of Sente.
23:15
SPEAKER_00: It might be because of the people behind the brand, which is big fans of people, too.
23:19
SPEAKER_01: People are so good.
23:20
SPEAKER_01: We love you all, all you people.
23:23
SPEAKER_00: You know who you are.
23:24
SPEAKER_00: You do.
23:25
SPEAKER_00: Um, the finally we we we finished up with a a panel discussion that we were lucky enough to get funding from uh Neutrogena and Kenview to support.
23:34
SPEAKER_00: It was called the Future of Skin Care.
23:36
SPEAKER_00: And and I, you know, I was able to moderate this panel, and we had some amazing uh the panel of lecturers from that session was was able to be up on stage with me.
23:47
SPEAKER_00: And yeah, we really focused on the idea of the collagen banking idea, which is in the Neutrogena liner products, it's a relatively new uh product that with the idea of listen, let's use some regenerative ingredients to maintain the collagen you have as a young person and allow you to kind of, as you age, have this supply of collagen that you have really supported and nurtured from a young age, so that when you do start, you know, having the increased activity of your collagenases and the exposome starts really affecting it, you have a larger amount for it to degrade.
24:23
SPEAKER_00: So you're probably not going to age as quickly.
24:25
SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
24:26
SPEAKER_01: You know, the whole notion of the pre-aging patient, which I I think I give Neutrogene a lot of credit.
24:33
SPEAKER_01: They did some really good work looking at younger patients.
24:36
SPEAKER_01: You know, we always focus on the older patient.
24:39
SPEAKER_01: Looking at these younger patients and finding out that they start aging, those patients with the lighter Fitzpatrick skin types in their mid-20s.
24:48
SPEAKER_01: You start seeing these aging turning points.
24:50
SPEAKER_01: And then as the skin gets a little darker, like our threes and fours, it's at around 30.
24:54
SPEAKER_01: And then our fives and six sixes, it's at 35.
24:58
SPEAKER_01: So, and it's amazing.
25:00
SPEAKER_01: That's very young.
25:02
SPEAKER_01: And there's a lot of commonality in what you see.
25:05
SPEAKER_01: You know, you start seeing dark circles and fine lines and crow's feet and discoloration and loss of radiance.
25:11
SPEAKER_01: Then they did some really good in vitro work where they started looking at the ability of the cells from younger patients compared to older patients.
25:21
SPEAKER_01: These are dermal fibroblasts in culture, the ability of them to tolerate UVA.
25:26
SPEAKER_01: And what they found was that the younger fibroblasts actually made more oxidative stress, made more reactive oxygen species.
25:32
SPEAKER_01: So they were actually more susceptible.
25:35
SPEAKER_01: So all that stupid sunbathing you're doing when you're young, it's bad because your cells are more capable of regulating reactive oxygen species.
25:43
SPEAKER_01: Now, there's a good part of that story, and that is that when they treated those cells with retinol, the younger cells were also more responsive.
25:51
SPEAKER_01: So they're more likely to get damaged by UVA, but they also are more responsive to interventions.
25:57
SPEAKER_01: Hence the whole idea of collagen bank.
26:00
SPEAKER_01: And we should mention that collagen bank contains a proprietary peptide.
26:04
SPEAKER_01: It's a very small peptide that upregulates collagen, elastin, decorin, fibronectin, NHA.
26:11
SPEAKER_01: So it upregulates five very interesting extracellular matrix components.
26:16
SPEAKER_01: And then there's also sunscreen in it, and the evening product has Bacuchiol.
26:20
SPEAKER_01: So it's it's just a nice little early intervention.
26:24
SPEAKER_01: You know, we have those patients who come in, right, Ted?
26:27
SPEAKER_01: The 20-year-olds, the 30 years, and we're looking at them like you don't even need anything.
26:30
SPEAKER_01: Put a sunscreen on.
26:32
SPEAKER_01: But I think this data shows us that maybe we really need to rethink that.
26:36
SPEAKER_01: And pre-aging is probably a really important category of patients or age of patients that we need to think about and help them bank their collagen, so to speak.
26:47
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I'm not such a huge fan of this term pre-aging anymore because of all the data that you just presented, right?
26:53
SPEAKER_00: It's more about the the youthful aging that occurs.
26:57
SPEAKER_00: Because aging is what what we learned is aging occurs at a very early time in our lives.
27:03
SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
27:03
SPEAKER_00: And so we really need to start targeting it there.
27:07
SPEAKER_00: And the idea being if you can target it at that point, it'll be much easier to target later on in life as well.
27:11
SPEAKER_01: A hundred percent.
27:12
SPEAKER_00: So interesting.
27:15
SPEAKER_00: Just listening to you kind of review that data, just you know, we we used to call our meeting the science of skincare summit and just all that science that supported this product in particular and the purposeful formulation, it just makes me so happy that we're able to to really highlight everything that's going on right now because it's it's amazing.
27:34
SPEAKER_01: It is that that peptide itself was seven years in development, as you know.
27:38
SPEAKER_01: We've but we've both written on it and lectured on it.
27:41
SPEAKER_01: I mean, it's phenomenal, you know.
27:43
SPEAKER_01: Just the you're right, the degree of science.
27:45
SPEAKER_01: And I think if we got anything out of the master class, it was that, you know, just that these companies are doing such good work.
27:53
SPEAKER_01: And I can't say enough good things about the contribution they've made to our understanding of skin aging, our understanding of the extracellular matrix, our understanding of the exposome.
28:03
SPEAKER_01: And these are things, you know, that just it's just blossoming the mount of science.
28:08
SPEAKER_01: So I'm super excited about the summit this year.
28:11
SPEAKER_01: We've got some really interesting news sessions that I think are, you know, gonna really talk about longevity, talking about regenerative, which we've spoken about before, but we've got some really interesting speakers coming in.
28:24
SPEAKER_01: So hopefully some of our listeners will meet us in Austin September 5th through the 7th.
28:31
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, it's science of skinsummit.com.
28:33
SPEAKER_00: That's the website to register.
28:35
SPEAKER_00: Um, we're at the Fairmont again this year.
28:38
SPEAKER_00: Uh, I promise you we won't be having anything outside in September in Austin.
28:42
SPEAKER_00: So everything will be indoors and you'll be nice and air conditioned.
28:47
SPEAKER_00: Uh, we have about uh, oh my goodness, we have so many companies signed up to exhibit.
28:51
SPEAKER_00: We're about to run out of exhibitor space.
28:53
SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we are.
28:53
SPEAKER_01: We're so excited.
28:54
SPEAKER_01: Got some really new we have some new companies, brand new, and then we've got some of the tried and true, the big boys, as I call them, that'll be there, and you'll get lots of cool samples and all the new products will be on exhibit and on podium and in the product theater hall.
29:11
SPEAKER_01: So we're very excited about that.
29:13
SPEAKER_00: In addition, we're gonna have some large and small pharma companies there as well, since we've expanded our medical dermatology track.
29:20
SPEAKER_00: So uh if you need CME from medical deram, it's available.
29:23
SPEAKER_00: We've got world experts speaking on atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, acne rosacea, chronic spontaneous articary hydridenitis, you name it.
29:32
SPEAKER_00: We've got incredible speakers uh giving you the latest science and data to support novel therapeutics and also what's in the pipeline uh with the companies in the exhibitor hall to supply to support that as well.
29:43
SPEAKER_00: So uh really kind of uh there's something for everybody at this year's summit.
29:47
SPEAKER_00: If you'd like to learn about formulations, we're having a formulation session uh so that you can really understand what goes into developing a new product.
29:54
SPEAKER_00: And perhaps you're interested in developing a product yourself.
29:57
SPEAKER_00: That would be a great session to learn from.
30:00
SPEAKER_00: Um all desai is coming in, and we're we're talking about leadership in dermatology along with some other really worldwide KOLs, are giving us their secrets as to how career development, yeah.
30:13
SPEAKER_01: We also have our Derm Fluencer, which is wildly popular last year, and I know it will be this year.
30:18
SPEAKER_01: We have lots of the big names in Durham influencing who will be there telling you how they create meaningful content and educate.
30:28
SPEAKER_00: Yep.
30:29
SPEAKER_00: And we are we're adding some sessions this year on uh for these really small companies to really highlight what they're doing and and you know, target investment opportunities for for uh the the investment community and as well as just highlight what's next, what's coming up next from these really small companies who are um you know focusing on on single molecules and uh single ingredients as well, um coming from all over the world.
30:55
SPEAKER_00: We just you know speaking to Italy, that's gonna be coming.
30:58
SPEAKER_01: Innovation session will be very interesting.
31:02
SPEAKER_00: So great way for you to stay uh in touch with what's now and what's next in dermatology, including all facets of dermatology.
31:10
SPEAKER_00: So love to see you at the Science of Skin Summit September 5th through the 7th.
31:13
SPEAKER_00: Science of Skinsummit.com is the website.
31:16
SPEAKER_00: Otherwise, uh thank you to the Face Conference for allowing us to bring our speakers over.
31:20
SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
31:21
SPEAKER_01: Thank you, Todd Schlesinger, for inviting us.
31:24
SPEAKER_01: We've really had a great time and really enjoyed educating uh colleagues from around the world.
31:31
SPEAKER_00: Yeah, really enjoyed it.
31:32
SPEAKER_00: My name is Dr.
31:33
SPEAKER_00: Ted Lane, and I'm with my co-host and co-founder and co-leader of the summit, Dr.
31:38
SPEAKER_00: Patty Ferris.
31:39
SPEAKER_00: Uh, this is Skincare Confidential.
31:40
SPEAKER_00: Thank you so much for listening.
31:42
SPEAKER_00: If you liked it, please subscribe.
31:43
SPEAKER_00: Please recommend us to your friends.
31:44
SPEAKER_00: Word of mouth is really how we have seen such wonderful growth of this podcast and allows us to get the speakers that we do uh to highlight all the wonderful stuff that's happening in dermatology.
31:55
SPEAKER_00: So thanks again.
31:56
SPEAKER_00: Uh, we'll see you in Austin in September.
31:58
SPEAKER_00: Take care.