Birria
Spain's own dictionary defines the word as a person or thing of little value, and it traces back to the Latin for a boar. Birria kept the insult and became the taco people now line up down the street for. The trail runs from Jalisco's wedding and baptism tables to Tijuana's red, cheese-stuffed version to everyone's feed.
We ask whether the one most people know matters more than the original, weigh goat against beef, settle whether the meat ever sees a sear, and work out why that slick of fat on the consommé earns its place. Then the booze gets decided live, with a nod to two Mexican states…
The skinny
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