Latest / New Worlder / Episode #109: Evan Rail
Transcript
- 0:00This is the New Worlder podcast and I am one of your hosts,
- 0:03Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_02: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:07SPEAKER_02: Today we are speaking with Evan Rayl.
- 0:10SPEAKER_02: Evan is based in Prague in the Czech Republic.
- 0:13and is a prolific food and travel writer,
- 0:16and has covered beer and spirits for many years.
- 0:19SPEAKER_02: His latest book is called The Absinthe Forger,
- 0:22SPEAKER_02: a true story of deception,
- 0:24SPEAKER_02: betrayal,
- 0:25SPEAKER_02: and the world's most dangerous spirit.
- 0:27SPEAKER_02: Evan and I have been crossing journalistic paths for many years.
- 0:32We have both written for the New York Times travel section for
- 0:34a long time,
- 0:35SPEAKER_02: and we also have an interest in food and drink,
- 0:38SPEAKER_02: though in very different parts of the world.
- 0:40SPEAKER_02: But we now have the same agent in last year,
- 0:43SPEAKER_02: said agent,
- 0:44SPEAKER_02: sent me a copy of Evan's new book before it came out,
- 0:46SPEAKER_02: and I couldn't put it down.
- 0:48For one,
- 0:49Absinthe is this intriguing spirit,
- 0:51and I've always been fascinated by it.
- 0:53SPEAKER_02: It has this rich history that inspired all kinds of great art,
- 0:57SPEAKER_02: but then it got banned in much of the world a century ago,
- 1:00SPEAKER_02: and there's always this desire we have for things that we can't have.
- 1:04The book is part history lesson about the absinthe story and
- 1:07part true crime novel
- 1:09about this forager that was creating and selling what he
- 1:11alleged were highly sought after,
- 1:14SPEAKER_02: expensive,
- 1:15SPEAKER_02: pre-banned bottles of absinthe.
- 1:17SPEAKER_02: Evan describes this entire absinthe underworld that exists,
- 1:21SPEAKER_02: this community of enthusiasts who want to taste history.
- 1:25And how actual lost bottles are occasionally being tracked down
- 1:28and rediscovered in
- 1:30SPEAKER_02: chateaus and estate sales.
- 1:32SPEAKER_02: It's a great read and I highly suggest getting a copy.
- 1:36SPEAKER_02: For a bit of background for listeners,
- 1:39SPEAKER_02: I just met Evan in person for the first time last week in Prague.
- 1:43SPEAKER_02: We met up for beers a couple of times.
- 1:45SPEAKER_02: I was there for a food writing conference at the restaurant Alma,
- 1:49SPEAKER_02: which is really great and nice.
- 1:51I was able to speak about food media and presented some ideas
- 1:54from my next book,
- 1:55SPEAKER_02: Set in the Amazon.
- 1:57SPEAKER_02: You'll hear more about that when it gets closer to publication,
- 2:01SPEAKER_02: which is still a very long time away.
- 2:04SPEAKER_02: Anyway,
- 2:04SPEAKER_02: if you haven't subscribed to my newsletter,
- 2:07SPEAKER_02: just go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
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- 2:18SPEAKER_02: Again, that's newworlder.com.
- 2:21Also,
- 2:21look for my books,
- 2:23such as the Latin American Cookbook at small bookstores everywhere.
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- 2:46SPEAKER_02: listened to enjoy the show
- 3:31SPEAKER_02: Hey, how's it going?
- 3:32SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's all right.
- 3:33SPEAKER_01: How are you?
- 3:34SPEAKER_02: So what's that you're drinking, then?
- 3:36I'm drinking a non-alcoholic beer because it's five in the
- 3:40afternoon here.
- 3:41SPEAKER_01: So it's quitting time, but it is a non-alcoholic from the corner store.
- 3:46SPEAKER_02: But it is quitting time.
- 3:47SPEAKER_02: So why does it have to be non-alcoholic?
- 3:50SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I don't know.
- 3:51SPEAKER_01: I've started drinking less alcohol lately.
- 3:54SPEAKER_01: I don't really notice anything.
- 3:58SPEAKER_01: The alcohol, I do notice not having a cold beverage around 5 p.m.
- 4:02SPEAKER_01: So if I skip the carbonated cold beverage, I'm not as happy.
- 4:06But if I have like a really good carbonated lemonade or
- 4:11non-alcoholic beer,
- 4:11I'm very happy.
- 4:14SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 4:14SPEAKER_02: actually,
- 4:15SPEAKER_02: I've been drinking seltzer sometimes,
- 4:16like at night when I usually would go for a beer and I'll just
- 4:20have like a seltzer
- 4:21SPEAKER_02: and it kind of cures the craving.
- 4:24SPEAKER_02: It's just about, you know.
- 4:27SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's a little cold carbonated treat, I guess.
- 4:30SPEAKER_02: But one thing I want to talk to you about,
- 4:32SPEAKER_02: because when I was in Prague last week,
- 4:35SPEAKER_02: when we met for the first time in person,
- 4:39SPEAKER_02: the beer there didn't make me feel like shit.
- 4:45SPEAKER_02: Oh.
- 4:46SPEAKER_02: I had a bunch of beers every day.
- 4:49SPEAKER_02: It was nice out,
- 4:50so there were a lot of times where I sat on a sidewalk or I met
- 4:55you in the pub down
- 4:56SPEAKER_02: the street from your house,
- 4:58SPEAKER_02: and I had a few beers,
- 5:01SPEAKER_02: and I didn't have some weird headache.
- 5:03SPEAKER_02: I didn't have some weird hangover.
- 5:05SPEAKER_02: Not that I was drinking too excess, really, but I don't know.
- 5:11Sometimes maybe it's that I'm getting older that beer makes me
- 5:14feel shitty more often than not.
- 5:16SPEAKER_02: but I didn't feel that in Prague at all.
- 5:19SPEAKER_02: Why is that?
- 5:20SPEAKER_01: Well, I think the traditionally produced Czech beer is pretty gentle.
- 5:25SPEAKER_01: In terms of the byproducts of fermentation,
- 5:29those normally kind of drop out because of the long lagering at
- 5:32cold temperatures.
- 5:33SPEAKER_01: So the congeners, the things that give you a hangover,
- 5:37SPEAKER_01: Like I said, aldehyde is a really common one.
- 5:39That's going to drop out of those Czech beers when they're
- 5:41produced the traditional
- 5:44SPEAKER_01: way using a long conditioning that is at a very low temperature.
- 5:48So the beers are just maybe think of it like supermarket bread,
- 5:55like artisanal bakery bread.
- 5:57SPEAKER_01: It's sort of a different process.
- 5:59SPEAKER_01: They're the same.
- 6:00SPEAKER_01: foods, right?
- 6:01SPEAKER_01: Bread and bread,
- 6:02but you're talking about something that's gone through this
- 6:04much more complex
- 6:05SPEAKER_01: fermentation and,
- 6:06SPEAKER_01: um,
- 6:07SPEAKER_01: much slower processing time.
- 6:09SPEAKER_01: And it's just kind of better for you.
- 6:11SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 6:12No,
- 6:12I mean,
- 6:12it's like natural wine to kind of thing,
- 6:15but the natural wine.
- 6:17SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 6:17SPEAKER_01: Sort of like that.
- 6:19SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 6:20SPEAKER_01: That could be it.
- 6:21SPEAKER_02: Um, yeah, yeah, maybe, but I've never thought about it like that.
- 6:23And it's just,
- 6:25I like,
- 6:26I really noticed how good I felt after having a couple of beers
- 6:30and
- 6:30SPEAKER_02: And I don't just mean like buzzed.
- 6:32SPEAKER_02: I mean, like my body didn't feel shitty after a few beers.
- 6:37SPEAKER_02: And I was kind of surprised because lately in the last few years,
- 6:42SPEAKER_02: as I've gotten older,
- 6:44SPEAKER_02: the beer,
- 6:45SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 6:45SPEAKER_02: hits me in a weirder way than it used to.
- 6:48SPEAKER_01: Me too.
- 6:51SPEAKER_01: But I think also Czech beer is pretty low alcohol.
- 6:54SPEAKER_01: It's generally either 4% or 5% alcohol.
- 6:56SPEAKER_01: And it's hard to find something that's higher than 5% alcohol.
- 7:01SPEAKER_01: The tastes have switched.
- 7:03So it used to be about a 60-40 mix of all of the beer that was
- 7:05consumed in the country.
- 7:06SPEAKER_01: And I'm talking about for hundreds of years.
- 7:08SPEAKER_01: We have record now.
- 7:10SPEAKER_01: And there was about 60%, 4% alcohol beer and about 40%, 5% alcohol beer.
- 7:18SPEAKER_01: And go back to the first brewing of Pilsner or Kell in 1842.
- 7:22SPEAKER_01: We have a record of what they brewed and what they sold.
- 7:24SPEAKER_01: And we know what people have been, what people used to drink.
- 7:28And only in the last five to 10 years has that started to meet
- 7:32and be more like 50-50.
- 7:34SPEAKER_01: And now it has just recently switched.
- 7:35SPEAKER_01: So now Czechs are drinking much stronger beer,
- 7:37SPEAKER_01: 5% alcohol,
- 7:40SPEAKER_01: than they used to,
- 7:42SPEAKER_01: predominantly 4% alcohol.
- 7:42It's still,
- 7:43it's about a six,
- 7:43well,
- 7:44it's about 55-45 or something at this point.
- 7:48so it's just slightly more of the slightly stronger beer okay
- 7:52but i mean that's a
- 7:53subtle shift i think like compared to the u.s when you know
- 7:57suddenly everything's a
- 7:58double ipa now and it's like eight percent and and it's like
- 8:03just that or like
- 8:05strawberry wheat beer all of a sudden and like that's your
- 8:08options and it's like
- 8:10what do i do here and then that's i don't know that's when i
- 8:12get a cocktail
- 8:15SPEAKER_00: So it's almost twice the level of alcohol.
- 8:17SPEAKER_02: Yeah, like double IPAs are super strong.
- 8:20SPEAKER_02: It's like 8%, 9%.
- 8:20SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 8:23SPEAKER_01: And then, you know, barley wines and so forth.
- 8:25SPEAKER_01: Those are super fun, but you want to have small portions.
- 8:30Everything makes sense if you keep the portions approximated or
- 8:34in the correct size
- 8:36SPEAKER_01: for the amount of alcohol.
- 8:38SPEAKER_01: But too often we don't.
- 8:40SPEAKER_01: So we drink a half liter of, well, this is non-alcoholic.
- 8:44SPEAKER_01: And then you drink a half liter of 4% alcohol beer.
- 8:46SPEAKER_01: And then you drink a half liter of 10% alcohol beer.
- 8:49SPEAKER_01: You're getting a lot more.
- 8:53Anyway,
- 8:54so Evan,
- 8:55we have been writing for a lot of the same publications for
- 8:59many years.
- 9:00SPEAKER_02: We finally got to meet up in person last week in Prague.
- 9:05SPEAKER_02: But before this happened,
- 9:06SPEAKER_02: we had the same agent,
- 9:08SPEAKER_02: Max Sinsheimer,
- 9:10SPEAKER_02: and he sent me a copy of your new book before it came out.
- 9:13SPEAKER_02: And I totally could not put it down.
- 9:15SPEAKER_02: I thought it's so great and everyone should read it.
- 9:18SPEAKER_02: And it's called The Absinthe Forger,
- 9:20SPEAKER_02: a true story of deception,
- 9:22SPEAKER_02: betrayal,
- 9:23SPEAKER_02: and the world's most dangerous spirit.
- 9:26SPEAKER_02: So tell me how you first got into Absinthe.
- 9:29SPEAKER_01: Oh,
- 9:30SPEAKER_01: well,
- 9:30SPEAKER_01: I studied French literature in college and in a graduate program,
- 9:38SPEAKER_01: and I specialized in the 19th century.
- 9:40SPEAKER_01: And that's all,
- 9:41SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 9:42SPEAKER_01: the great impressionist painters,
- 9:43SPEAKER_01: the great decadent poets,
- 9:45SPEAKER_01: the romantic,
- 9:47SPEAKER_01: tragic figures,
- 9:48SPEAKER_01: and absence was a big part of their lives.
- 9:52SPEAKER_01: Absence wasn't available when it didn't exist or it was very underground.
- 9:56SPEAKER_01: I remember my professor said you could still find it or something, but...
- 9:59SPEAKER_01: didn't exist.
- 10:01SPEAKER_01: But when I first started coming to the Czech Republic,
- 10:04SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 10:05SPEAKER_01: mid 90s,
- 10:05SPEAKER_01: late 90s,
- 10:06the Czech Republic was famous as one of the places where you
- 10:09could get absinthe.
- 10:10SPEAKER_01: It was really bad absinthe,
- 10:12but you could actually get it because it had never been banned
- 10:15here the way it had
- 10:16SPEAKER_01: been banned in other countries.
- 10:18But it was just like cheap imitation of true absinthe or what
- 10:23was it like?
- 10:25SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it was bad.
- 10:28SPEAKER_01: You were just talking about not getting so many headaches or something.
- 10:31SPEAKER_01: It's an instant headache.
- 10:35SPEAKER_01: And it was bright green.
- 10:36SPEAKER_01: It was the wrong color.
- 10:38SPEAKER_01: Absinthe is not bright green.
- 10:39SPEAKER_01: It's dark.
- 10:41SPEAKER_02: So what made it bright green?
- 10:42SPEAKER_02: Like food colorings?
- 10:43SPEAKER_01: Yeah, artificial coloring.
- 10:47SPEAKER_01: But I got to taste this approximation of absinthe.
- 10:50SPEAKER_01: And it did have some of the characteristics of absinthe.
- 10:53SPEAKER_01: It was made with wormwood.
- 10:55SPEAKER_01: And so forth.
- 10:56SPEAKER_01: And that just sort of ignited my interest.
- 10:58SPEAKER_01: And eventually, Chex started making real absinthe.
- 11:03Closer to the authentic stuff from the 19th century in France
- 11:07and Switzerland and elsewhere.
- 11:09SPEAKER_01: And then right around that time, you know, I'd already moved to Prague.
- 11:14SPEAKER_01: Switzerland legalized absinthe.
- 11:16And then France and the United States legalized absinthe around
- 11:202007 for the U.S.
- 11:23SPEAKER_01: And I'd been drinking absinthe for 10 years at that point.
- 11:26SPEAKER_01: So I started writing about it more.
- 11:29SPEAKER_01: I went to Switzerland,
- 11:30SPEAKER_01: where Absinthe is originally from,
- 11:32SPEAKER_01: and I talked to a bunch of producers there.
- 11:34And I had this connection of knowing the sort of history and
- 11:38the cultural milieu
- 11:41SPEAKER_01: that Absinthe came out of.
- 11:43And then I had this other connection from living in a country
- 11:45that had brought
- 11:46SPEAKER_01: Absinthe back to life.
- 11:49So I had two ways of looking at it,
- 11:52and it was very easy for me to travel to Switzerland.
- 11:54SPEAKER_01: I had spent a summer in Switzerland in college.
- 11:57SPEAKER_01: I actually did a double major.
- 11:59SPEAKER_01: So I did French and German.
- 12:01SPEAKER_01: So I kind of like the difference.
- 12:02SPEAKER_01: And Switzerland is a really fun kind of French and German.
- 12:05SPEAKER_02: And then you move to the Czech Republic.
- 12:07SPEAKER_01: Yeah, where I don't get to use either of those languages.
- 12:11But Switzerland is kind of fun because,
- 12:13you know,
- 12:13you're in one canton and it speaks German.
- 12:16SPEAKER_01: You switch over its other canton.
- 12:17SPEAKER_01: It's French or Romance or Italian.
- 12:22And I traveled back to the places where absinthe was,
- 12:25and I'd written about it.
- 12:26I wrote an article for The Times,
- 12:27for The New York Times,
- 12:29about the emerging absinthe trail.
- 12:33SPEAKER_01: And I came across this story years after that,
- 12:39SPEAKER_01: that there was a criminal,
- 12:40SPEAKER_01: there was a con man who had created forgeries of absinthe,
- 12:46SPEAKER_01: classic absinthe,
- 12:46SPEAKER_01: historic absinthe.
- 12:48And there was a group of amateur detectives who were themselves
- 12:53absent collectors
- 12:55who set out to prove that this con man had created these
- 12:59forgeries and ripped off a
- 13:00SPEAKER_01: bunch of people.
- 13:01SPEAKER_02: So there was this...
- 13:03SPEAKER_02: Basically,
- 13:03SPEAKER_02: you infiltrated this community of absent collectors on the internet.
- 13:09SPEAKER_02: So...
- 13:11SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 13:11SPEAKER_01: And in real life.
- 13:12SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 13:13SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 13:13SPEAKER_02: And in real life.
- 13:15SPEAKER_02: So basically this was like the Absinthe Underground.
- 13:18SPEAKER_01: It's the Absinthe Underground.
- 13:19SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 13:20SPEAKER_02: And they want bottles from before the band, right?
- 13:24SPEAKER_02: Like that's what they're looking for.
- 13:25SPEAKER_01: Yeah, the bans mostly happened around 1914.
- 13:29SPEAKER_01: The big one in France, 1914, 1915.
- 13:31SPEAKER_01: So the bottles from before the ban are really highly sought after.
- 13:35SPEAKER_01: They're like pre-prohibition whiskeys.
- 13:38SPEAKER_01: You know, it's like, it's this thing that you can't get, unobtainable.
- 13:44But the thing about Absinthe that is different from any other
- 13:47spirit that we know
- 13:48of is that it's one of the only spirits that has been
- 13:50specifically banned.
- 13:52SPEAKER_01: Just Absinthe itself was banned.
- 13:55SPEAKER_01: Not whiskey, not bourbon or rum or gin or anything.
- 14:01SPEAKER_01: Absinthe.
- 14:02SPEAKER_01: And in the United States, we banned it in 1912, if I'm not mistaken.
- 14:05SPEAKER_01: We banned it about 10 years before Prohibition.
- 14:09SPEAKER_01: It wasn't about...
- 14:10SPEAKER_02: So absinthe was like,
- 14:12SPEAKER_02: at least in government minds,
- 14:15SPEAKER_02: it was the worst of the worst.
- 14:17SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 14:18SPEAKER_02: It was this like weirdly...
- 14:21SPEAKER_02: bohemian spirit that made you hallucinate, at least in their mind.
- 14:26SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 14:27SPEAKER_01: Or murder people.
- 14:28SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 14:28SPEAKER_01: Or murder people.
- 14:29SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 14:29SPEAKER_01: Crimes associated with absinthe.
- 14:31SPEAKER_02: Yeah, that's worse.
- 14:32SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 14:32SPEAKER_01: That's worse.
- 14:33SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 14:33SPEAKER_01: And there were real crimes.
- 14:35The association with absinthe is not necessarily true,
- 14:38but,
- 14:39you know,
- 14:40they needed a scapegoat.
- 14:42SPEAKER_01: It was a moral panic.
- 14:43SPEAKER_01: And I think we're all familiar with moral panics today.
- 14:45SPEAKER_01: They're having it all the time.
- 14:47SPEAKER_01: When I was a kid, it was like Satanism and Dungeons and Dragons.
- 14:52SPEAKER_01: That's true, though, by the way.
- 14:55SPEAKER_01: Yeah, that was true.
- 14:56SPEAKER_01: It was just like Stranger Things.
- 15:00SPEAKER_01: And so this was a moral panic around at the end of the 19th century.
- 15:05SPEAKER_01: And people got upset about it.
- 15:07SPEAKER_01: They banned it.
- 15:08SPEAKER_01: And because this one spirit was banned, it became this thing that
- 15:14SPEAKER_01: people always romanticize the past or often romanticize the past.
- 15:17And they would think that,
- 15:18oh,
- 15:19the absence from back then was somehow different.
- 15:21SPEAKER_01: Or the absence from back then was better.
- 15:23Or the absence from back then made you hallucinate or made you
- 15:27see things or was
- 15:28SPEAKER_01: just more inspirational in an artistic sense.
- 15:31SPEAKER_01: And mostly because you can't get it, people wanted it.
- 15:37SPEAKER_01: You can get it there.
- 15:38You can find these bottles that come up there,
- 15:40come up for sale every month.
- 15:41SPEAKER_01: There's a new one that surfaces still, but
- 15:46There's this point on the timeline and that point in the
- 15:50timeline is like before
- 15:52and a limited amount of what came before and the stuff that
- 15:56comes after we're still producing.
- 15:58So there's a lot of interest in tasting these pre-banned
- 16:01absents to know what Hemingway,
- 16:05SPEAKER_01: for example,
- 16:05SPEAKER_01: was drinking or Oscar Wilde or
- 16:08What Van Gogh,
- 16:10you know,
- 16:10the great impressionist painters were drinking absinthe.
- 16:13SPEAKER_01: So you kind of want to drink what they drank and see what they saw.
- 16:16SPEAKER_00: To confirm the myth or not, like, do you go crazy or not?
- 16:21SPEAKER_00: Do you hallucinate?
- 16:23SPEAKER_00: I mean, there is that like curiosity too, right?
- 16:25SPEAKER_00: Not only the flavor, but this is true.
- 16:27SPEAKER_00: Is the myth true or isn't?
- 16:30I'll be curious about that if I get one of those,
- 16:33you know,
- 16:33pre-ban bottles.
- 16:35SPEAKER_01: It's something that people want primarily because they can't get.
- 16:39Part of what it feels like to drink one of those things is not
- 16:45that you're bringing
- 16:46SPEAKER_01: something from the past to the present,
- 16:48SPEAKER_01: but that you are yourself traveling to the past.
- 16:52SPEAKER_01: You're drinking not the same type of spirit, not the same recipe.
- 16:57SPEAKER_01: You're drinking the same batch.
- 16:59In some cases,
- 16:59the same bottles as people you read about in books,
- 17:05people who are famous.
- 17:07SPEAKER_01: There's a cache of these bottles that are decorated with
- 17:11SPEAKER_01: little drawings.
- 17:13And some of the artists who decorated them are very well-known
- 17:17proponents of
- 17:19SPEAKER_01: artistic schools like German Expressionism.
- 17:21SPEAKER_01: And I mean,
- 17:22they're famous people who decorated some of these bottles that
- 17:24are surfaced that
- 17:25SPEAKER_01: have come out of Italy from an old palazzo.
- 17:30And nobody really knows where they came from or they know that
- 17:33you can get them and so forth.
- 17:34SPEAKER_01: And maybe they're real.
- 17:38SPEAKER_01: So there's been a whole lot of romance about it.
- 17:40SPEAKER_01: And for people who have a curiosity about absinthe,
- 17:44tasting those spirits is valuable enough to spend several
- 17:49hundred dollars for a
- 17:52SPEAKER_01: tiny little sample or several thousand dollars for a bottle.
- 17:56SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 17:56SPEAKER_02: So like for me, it was totally, I couldn't get it.
- 18:01SPEAKER_02: So it was always something I wanted.
- 18:04SPEAKER_02: Like when I was like, you know, at
- 18:06the teenager,
- 18:07like,
- 18:07you know,
- 18:08early twenties,
- 18:09you know,
- 18:10going to Europe for the first time.
- 18:11SPEAKER_02: And like,
- 18:12SPEAKER_02: and I read about it for so many years and it was,
- 18:14SPEAKER_02: like you said,
- 18:15SPEAKER_02: it was this,
- 18:16SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 18:16SPEAKER_02: this inspiration,
- 18:17SPEAKER_02: this muse for so many other,
- 18:20SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 18:20SPEAKER_02: creatives.
- 18:21And I think I tasted it like in Spain because I think it was
- 18:25legalized in Spain a
- 18:27SPEAKER_02: little earlier than other places.
- 18:29SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 18:30SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, it actually... Yeah, I tasted it too.
- 18:33SPEAKER_00: Yeah,
- 18:33there was a long tradition of absinthe that existed through the
- 18:39Spanish Republic
- 18:40SPEAKER_01: and then even under Franco afterwards.
- 18:44SPEAKER_01: One of the early Pernod factories moved there.
- 18:46SPEAKER_01: It wasn't the Pernod that we know, but...
- 18:49SPEAKER_01: There were multiple distilleries named Pernod,
- 18:51SPEAKER_01: and eventually the Pernod that we know moved there in the 1930s.
- 18:55SPEAKER_01: So they produced Absinthe through the 1960s at the Pernod,
- 19:00SPEAKER_01: and they're known as Tarragonas,
- 19:03SPEAKER_01: because in Tarragona,
- 19:04SPEAKER_01: that was the name of the town where they produced this stuff.
- 19:08SPEAKER_01: And those are highly collectible.
- 19:10SPEAKER_01: They're a tier down from pre-bans in terms of their monetary value.
- 19:15SPEAKER_01: They're delicious.
- 19:16SPEAKER_01: The early ones are just great.
- 19:19SPEAKER_02: Well, I don't know if I tasted an early one.
- 19:21SPEAKER_02: I feel like I had just some cheap commercial one.
- 19:23And I just remember being super disappointed that I didn't
- 19:30immediately go on this
- 19:31SPEAKER_02: ayahuasca trip like I imagined it.
- 19:34And then I didn't taste Epsomph again for years until it was
- 19:37legalized in the US.
- 19:38SPEAKER_02: And then in Brooklyn, Maison Premier opened.
- 19:42SPEAKER_02: And I remember going there,
- 19:45SPEAKER_02: and they had this great setup,
- 19:47SPEAKER_02: and they had all these kinds of absence,
- 19:49SPEAKER_02: and they knew how to serve it,
- 19:50SPEAKER_02: at least in my mind.
- 19:53SPEAKER_02: And I started to enjoy it, and I liked the taste of it.
- 19:58SPEAKER_02: I liked the theatrics of it.
- 20:01SPEAKER_02: I liked the kind of buzz it gave.
- 20:04SPEAKER_02: But it wasn't like what I expected as a 20-year-old in Europe.
- 20:09SPEAKER_02: But it was just like a nice...
- 20:12nice drink and and i liked it so but so the one that i tried in
- 20:182003 in barcelona
- 20:21was no that would have been legal that probably was legal um
- 20:25okay i don't know when
- 20:26it was made but it was legally produced in spain uh by the
- 20:31perno company until the
- 20:32SPEAKER_01: late 1960s and then there are other producers in spain
- 20:37SPEAKER_01: But for whatever reason,
- 20:39SPEAKER_01: it wasn't the Spanish absinthe that brought the legalization to the fore.
- 20:44SPEAKER_01: It was the Czech absinthe that did because...
- 20:48There was an importer of Czech beer in the UK who realized that
- 20:53the Czechs were
- 20:53producing absinthe and he started bringing Czech absinthe over
- 20:56and he challenged
- 20:57the laws and it turns out there weren't really any laws to
- 21:00contravene and so he
- 21:01SPEAKER_01: could just actually get away with it.
- 21:02And then he was very good at marketing and articles started
- 21:06appearing in British
- 21:07SPEAKER_01: newspapers and it was a very trendy thing.
- 21:10They could have been taking absence from Spain,
- 21:12I guess,
- 21:14but they did not.
- 21:15SPEAKER_01: It was not what happened.
- 21:17SPEAKER_01: There were Spanish producers.
- 21:18SPEAKER_01: There are Spanish producers today.
- 21:19SPEAKER_01: They're very good.
- 21:20SPEAKER_01: Some of them even grow their own wormwood.
- 21:25SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's a really interesting...
- 21:28SPEAKER_01: product in a way,
- 21:29SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 21:30SPEAKER_01: as we talk about spirits having a sense of place,
- 21:32and maybe there's an idea that spirits don't because the
- 21:35intensity of distillation
- 21:36SPEAKER_01: is so great that it destroyed the sense of terroir.
- 21:40But if any spirit does belong to a place,
- 21:44like single malt maybe belongs to
- 21:47rich highlands and and bourbon belongs to certain places in
- 21:51kentucky um absinthe
- 21:53definitely has a sense of place in the alps because because of
- 21:59the wormwood in the
- 22:00wormwood it's tell me more about wormwood like i i don't i
- 22:04don't know that much
- 22:06SPEAKER_02: about it i see it used here and there like i've come across it and
- 22:10SPEAKER_02: Like in South Africa last year, of all places, I saw a bunch of it.
- 22:15SPEAKER_02: It was being used just as an herb in cooking.
- 22:18SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I was walking down the street and I noticed some wormwood growing.
- 22:21SPEAKER_01: It's a decorative plant as well.
- 22:22There are varieties,
- 22:24types of wormwood that are grown because they're pretty.
- 22:26SPEAKER_01: They have nice leaves and so forth.
- 22:29SPEAKER_01: Um, Wyrmwood is a plant that, uh, is, it's gotten a bad reputation.
- 22:34SPEAKER_01: It does contain a,
- 22:35SPEAKER_01: a neurotoxin called,
- 22:38SPEAKER_01: um,
- 22:39SPEAKER_01: that is why absinthe got banned because it,
- 22:41SPEAKER_01: the neurotoxin can be sort of bad for you.
- 22:44SPEAKER_01: Um, but absinthe itself is, I'm sorry, Wyrmwood itself is just a plant.
- 22:49SPEAKER_01: It's a bitter herb and it's been used in, you know,
- 22:53SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 22:56SPEAKER_02: Medicinally.
- 22:58SPEAKER_01: Medicinally.
- 22:58SPEAKER_02: For centuries.
- 22:59SPEAKER_02: Right.
- 23:00SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 23:00SPEAKER_01: And, you know, it's the source of vermouth.
- 23:04SPEAKER_01: That's wormwood is the word vermouth in German.
- 23:07SPEAKER_01: And so that's where you get vermouth, which is another Spanish drink.
- 23:15SPEAKER_01: It is itself.
- 23:17SPEAKER_01: There are usually two types of wormwood in absinthe.
- 23:20uh grand wormwood but also roman wormwood or a small lesser
- 23:23wormwood it has a
- 23:25particular aroma um it is not what you expect it's piney sort
- 23:31of but not not really
- 23:33piney um slightly resiny um oh it's weird yeah i like i like it
- 23:39like i really
- 23:40appreciate the taste of a little you know a shot of absinthe
- 23:44you know just sipping
- 23:45SPEAKER_02: on it and it's like i i quite enjoy it
- 23:48SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 23:48SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 23:48SPEAKER_01: It's a neat, it's a wonderful drink.
- 23:50SPEAKER_01: It's unfortunately just got caught up in, in somebody's demonization.
- 23:56SPEAKER_01: Um,
- 23:57and it was made into this thing that it wasn't like
- 24:01switchblades in the 1950s or
- 24:03SPEAKER_01: breakdancing in the 1980s.
- 24:05SPEAKER_01: Um, not the thing itself.
- 24:07SPEAKER_01: It's what people do with the thing that you can worry about.
- 24:11SPEAKER_01: Um,
- 24:11SPEAKER_01: so yeah,
- 24:12SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 24:12SPEAKER_01: that's,
- 24:13SPEAKER_01: that's wormwood absent itself is a wonderful,
- 24:15SPEAKER_01: really,
- 24:16SPEAKER_01: really great drink.
- 24:17SPEAKER_01: Um,
- 24:19Is it the ice water and the cube of sugar still used and the
- 24:23way you are supposed to drink it?
- 24:24Well,
- 24:26so absinthe sort of means different things to different people
- 24:28at different times.
- 24:29SPEAKER_01: And for American people,
- 24:32SPEAKER_01: connoisseurs of spirits,
- 24:34SPEAKER_01: it's often,
- 24:35it fits into mixology and cocktails because it was used in
- 24:40those 19th century
- 24:42cocktails as a rinse or a float or a flavoring agent in
- 24:48cocktails with five or six ingredients.
- 24:51SPEAKER_01: And it's part of our mixology culture.
- 24:53SPEAKER_01: In other cultures, it is consumed
- 24:57SPEAKER_01: with water as its own drink, a glass of absinthe.
- 25:01And it's not mixed with bourbon or seltzer or syrup or anything
- 25:05like that.
- 25:06The traditional way of serving it was with a sugar cube and
- 25:10water dripping over the
- 25:11SPEAKER_01: sugar cube into the absinthe.
- 25:14SPEAKER_01: Because I came to absinthe mostly in Switzerland,
- 25:18SPEAKER_01: in this place called the Val de Trever,
- 25:20SPEAKER_01: where it's from,
- 25:21SPEAKER_01: it's a working man's drink there.
- 25:23SPEAKER_01: There's no spoon, absinthe spoon.
- 25:26SPEAKER_01: There's not a lot of paraphernalia.
- 25:28SPEAKER_01: I'd prefer it without sugar myself.
- 25:30SPEAKER_01: I do it with cold water, about three to one or four to one.
- 25:34SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 25:37SPEAKER_01: And it basically becomes about as strong as a glass of wine.
- 25:40SPEAKER_02: So what does the sugar cube do exactly?
- 25:45SPEAKER_02: I mean, why is that the customary preparation?
- 25:52SPEAKER_01: That I don't really understand why, because it's made with anise.
- 25:56SPEAKER_01: So anethyl, it seems sweet to us, the compound of anise.
- 26:03SPEAKER_01: It has a licorice-like taste, and it seems already sweet.
- 26:07SPEAKER_01: It seems sweet enough to me, but a lot of people see it in it.
- 26:11Water is used to dilute it because it's coming at about 70% or
- 26:1460% alcohol,
- 26:16SPEAKER_01: so it's a little too strong to drink straight.
- 26:19SPEAKER_01: The water also produces the visual effect,
- 26:21SPEAKER_01: which is called the luche effect or the ouzo effect or absinthe effect.
- 26:26That when it hits the spirit,
- 26:29oils,
- 26:30essential oils in the spirit mix with water and they cloud.
- 26:33So you get that you have this clear spirit that you add water
- 26:37to and then it becomes cloudy.
- 26:39SPEAKER_01: But ouzo does that.
- 26:40SPEAKER_01: And I think other Sambuca pastis does that.
- 26:43SPEAKER_02: Raka and like turkey and stuff like that.
- 26:45SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 26:46All those are anise-based and the anathol is what is doing that,
- 26:50basically.
- 26:50SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 26:51SPEAKER_02: It looks cool.
- 26:52SPEAKER_02: It looks cool.
- 26:54SPEAKER_02: It looks cool.
- 26:55SPEAKER_01: Magic.
- 26:56SPEAKER_02: It was clear and now it's cloudy.
- 26:59SPEAKER_00: Yeah, the sugar probably added to the performative.
- 27:02I guess,
- 27:03but I think people really like sweet drinks and it's a way to
- 27:08enhance it.
- 27:09SPEAKER_01: I generally don't drink it with sugar.
- 27:11SPEAKER_01: I do drink it with water.
- 27:12SPEAKER_01: I am a fan of the modern Swiss style of absinthe.
- 27:19SPEAKER_01: Um, which is not green, which is perfectly clear.
- 27:23SPEAKER_01: It looks like gin and has no coloring at all.
- 27:27And that is because in the 95 years or so that it was banned in Switzerland,
- 27:32SPEAKER_01: they never stopped producing it.
- 27:33SPEAKER_01: They kept making it.
- 27:35SPEAKER_01: They were bootleg.
- 27:37SPEAKER_01: But in order to bootleg this,
- 27:39SPEAKER_01: this drink that the authorities were trying to stop,
- 27:42SPEAKER_01: they stopped coloring it because if you see a dark green,
- 27:47SPEAKER_01: greenish yellow,
- 27:50SPEAKER_01: Yeah, sort of disguise it.
- 27:52SPEAKER_01: They left it clear.
- 27:54SPEAKER_01: They just didn't skip the coloration step.
- 27:56SPEAKER_01: And they call this a bleu or a blue absinthe.
- 27:59SPEAKER_01: It's not blue, but it's clear.
- 28:01SPEAKER_01: Or they call it a blanche, a white, but it's normally called a bleu.
- 28:05And the Swiss blues are this new development in absinthe that
- 28:10happened only in the 20th century.
- 28:12SPEAKER_01: There were a few pre-banned white absents, but this was its own thing.
- 28:17And they also got new ingredients that they didn't have in the
- 28:2019th century,
- 28:22SPEAKER_01: new spices,
- 28:23SPEAKER_01: new availability.
- 28:25SPEAKER_01: And so the absents actually grew and developed.
- 28:28SPEAKER_01: So there's this weird...
- 28:30conflict where people who are into absinthe,
- 28:33absintheurs,
- 28:35are often trying to emulate the past.
- 28:36SPEAKER_01: They're sort of like historical reenactors, right?
- 28:38SPEAKER_01: They're like wearing their Civil War uniforms or something, right?
- 28:41And then even like wearing spats and,
- 28:44you know,
- 28:4519th century Belle Époque kind of stuff.
- 28:47SPEAKER_01: They're reenacting.
- 28:48SPEAKER_01: But absinthe itself didn't stand still.
- 28:50SPEAKER_01: Absinthe kept developing and it became new things and it moved on.
- 28:55SPEAKER_01: And that is what culture is, you know?
- 28:57SPEAKER_02: So they're like...
- 29:00The years of the ban are,
- 29:02to them,
- 29:04it's like the peak and nothing shouldn't happen after that.
- 29:07SPEAKER_01: I don't know if that's true,
- 29:09SPEAKER_01: but there's a tendency for people to be,
- 29:11a lot of people who get into absinthe are into the absinthe
- 29:15because of antiques,
- 29:17SPEAKER_01: for example.
- 29:17SPEAKER_01: They start out as collectors of glasses and spoons.
- 29:21And artworks,
- 29:21you know,
- 29:22you're talking about the end of the 19th century in France.
- 29:24SPEAKER_01: The artworks are gorgeous.
- 29:26SPEAKER_01: They're beautiful, decorative posters advertising absinthe.
- 29:29SPEAKER_01: And you can collect them and they're great.
- 29:32A lot of times people get into the antiques and then move on to
- 29:35embracing absinthe.
- 29:36But there's this connection with history that runs through
- 29:40their interest.
- 29:42SPEAKER_01: But if you're into just spirits themselves,
- 29:46SPEAKER_01: it's a spirit in its own right and it has its own cultural role.
- 29:50And certainly when you go to the Val de Trever and you're
- 29:51talking to distillers and
- 29:53SPEAKER_01: working men who drink it in cafes there,
- 29:56it's not this historicity or this historical reenactment of
- 30:00trying to be like Paris
- 30:01SPEAKER_01: in the 19th century.
- 30:02SPEAKER_01: It's a modern drink.
- 30:04SPEAKER_02: So how much were people paying for these bottles,
- 30:07SPEAKER_02: the ones you're writing about,
- 30:09SPEAKER_02: the forged ones?
- 30:11SPEAKER_01: You know, you could pay 5,000 euros for a bottle.
- 30:14A lot of times it was closer to three or four,
- 30:16but somewhere in that range,
- 30:18five or 6,000 euros.
- 30:19SPEAKER_01: And that seems like a bargain.
- 30:21SPEAKER_01: Although the problem is some of them were counterfeit, as we found out.
- 30:27SPEAKER_01: But yeah,
- 30:28SPEAKER_01: very often people would just buy a small shot,
- 30:32SPEAKER_01: a 50 milliliter dose or 40 milliliter dose,
- 30:36SPEAKER_01: and you might pay $200 or $300 for that.
- 30:38SPEAKER_01: People were sharing these bottles.
- 30:39So someone would find one and then 20 people would chip in and
- 30:43each buy a share of the bottle.
- 30:47SPEAKER_01: 20 people paying $300 is $6,000.
- 30:50And then you can buy your historic bottle of a 1915 Premier
- 30:57Fils or Pernod or
- 31:00SPEAKER_01: whatever you want,
- 31:00SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 31:01SPEAKER_01: if you can find it.
- 31:02SPEAKER_02: At the center of the book, there is a forager.
- 31:05SPEAKER_02: It's a guy that,
- 31:07SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 31:08SPEAKER_02: that was discovered to be putting,
- 31:09SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 31:10SPEAKER_02: new absinthe into,
- 31:12SPEAKER_02: he was old bottles,
- 31:13SPEAKER_02: right?
- 31:14SPEAKER_02: He wasn't recreating the bottles.
- 31:15SPEAKER_02: He was just,
- 31:16SPEAKER_02: Finding old bottles.
- 31:19SPEAKER_01: No, he wasn't recreating the bottles.
- 31:20SPEAKER_01: You're right.
- 31:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah.
- 31:21SPEAKER_01: He was just finding old bottles.
- 31:23And it's that tradition of collecting antiques that allowed
- 31:28this to happen.
- 31:29SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 31:30Absinthe was such a powerful cultural force that there are a
- 31:33lot of these antique
- 31:34SPEAKER_01: bottles around.
- 31:35SPEAKER_01: People don't just throw them out.
- 31:36SPEAKER_01: They keep them.
- 31:37SPEAKER_01: It's a valuable antique.
- 31:39SPEAKER_01: You know, it's an old Pernod bottle from 1900.
- 31:42But what I found fascinating,
- 31:44he wasn't just like pouring new absinthe in.
- 31:46SPEAKER_02: He was trying to recreate the recipes in some way.
- 31:50SPEAKER_01: He was a really good taster.
- 31:52SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 31:54And what is the weirdest part of this story for a lot of people
- 31:56is that he was an
- 31:57SPEAKER_01: actual connoisseur.
- 31:58SPEAKER_01: He was revered in his community.
- 32:02SPEAKER_01: That is absinthe collectors, absinthe connoisseurs.
- 32:06SPEAKER_01: And he was known for having an incredibly good palate.
- 32:10And so he actually could just sort of taste a historic absinthe
- 32:14and think,
- 32:15SPEAKER_01: how could I recreate that with modern absinthe and other flavors?
- 32:19SPEAKER_01: Things like that.
- 32:20No,
- 32:21I mean,
- 32:21aside of the whole fraud thing,
- 32:24there is a brilliance to what he was doing.
- 32:28I wonder if somebody like that could actually focus his
- 32:33attention on creating a new absinthe.
- 32:36SPEAKER_02: Could it be interesting?
- 32:38SPEAKER_01: Oh, absolutely.
- 32:39SPEAKER_01: And he would have been one of the people to do it.
- 32:41SPEAKER_01: He's a creative person.
- 32:42SPEAKER_01: He works in a creative field.
- 32:45SPEAKER_01: And that's one of the things that was strangest about this story for me.
- 32:48SPEAKER_01: I normally interview chefs,
- 32:51SPEAKER_01: white makers,
- 32:53SPEAKER_01: brewers,
- 32:55SPEAKER_01: people who create foodstuffs and want to talk about them.
- 32:59this guy created inarguably created something really neat a
- 33:05historic reproduction
- 33:08of a spirit from 120 years ago and he did not want to talk
- 33:12about it because he was
- 33:15defrauding people and when he got caught there was this whole
- 33:18brouhaha he went
- 33:19SPEAKER_01: underground he disappeared
- 33:22allegations came out it seemed like he uh ceased to exist right
- 33:28well i mean he was
- 33:29probably afraid of going to prison or something i assume but
- 33:35but yeah i think there
- 33:36is like a billions about him and has he has he reached out to
- 33:40you since the book
- 33:41SPEAKER_01: came out uh nick he he reached out to me last week oh yeah really really
- 33:50SPEAKER_01: For the first time?
- 33:51SPEAKER_01: Yes, for the first time since the book came out.
- 33:55SPEAKER_01: He just wrote congratulations on the book.
- 33:57SPEAKER_01: He hasn't read it yet, he said.
- 34:00SPEAKER_01: And I've written back.
- 34:02SPEAKER_01: We're going to see what happens.
- 34:03SPEAKER_01: I'll have an update on that one.
- 34:04SPEAKER_01: But yeah, that was, you know, opening my inbox and going, oh, that's...
- 34:11SPEAKER_03: What did you feel?
- 34:12SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I felt it.
- 34:12SPEAKER_01: It was a little concerning.
- 34:14SPEAKER_01: He's very polite.
- 34:15SPEAKER_01: He's a very nice guy.
- 34:16SPEAKER_01: I've met him in real life.
- 34:19SPEAKER_01: It's not just someone I don't know.
- 34:20SPEAKER_01: No, no.
- 34:22SPEAKER_02: But what I found interesting,
- 34:23SPEAKER_02: I don't think you were trying to so much as paint him as the criminal,
- 34:29SPEAKER_02: even though I think it was obvious he was doing something criminally,
- 34:34SPEAKER_02: with criminal intent and all that.
- 34:36SPEAKER_02: But I think you were...
- 34:39You were showing what he did and how fascinating and it was
- 34:42kind of impressive what
- 34:44SPEAKER_02: he was doing and recreating these old spirits.
- 34:47SPEAKER_02: And I don't know,
- 34:48SPEAKER_02: I think you,
- 34:50SPEAKER_02: if anything,
- 34:51SPEAKER_02: you open the door of something bigger within that guy.
- 34:58SPEAKER_01: I definitely feel empathy of a kind.
- 35:02SPEAKER_01: I'm a little disconcerted by the fact that he seems to lie.
- 35:06SPEAKER_01: He deceived his friends.
- 35:12SPEAKER_01: There's a whole part of the book.
- 35:13SPEAKER_01: I didn't expect when I was writing the book, when I planned the book,
- 35:19SPEAKER_01: that he would contact me in the middle of me writing the book.
- 35:21So the book changed and I had to acknowledge that I suddenly
- 35:25became a character in
- 35:26the book because I'm dealing with the actual forger who told me
- 35:29to stop researching
- 35:31SPEAKER_01: his past.
- 35:33I do have a lot of sympathy for him,
- 35:34and I do think he's definitely a creative person.
- 35:37SPEAKER_01: He's also very funny, and everyone will tell you, he's a funny person.
- 35:43SPEAKER_01: He makes good jokes,
- 35:44SPEAKER_01: and he's fun to be around,
- 35:46SPEAKER_01: but it's a little disconcerting that a person could tell lies,
- 35:49SPEAKER_01: and he lied to me.
- 35:51SPEAKER_02: I'm not saying you're saying he's a good person or his actions were good.
- 35:56SPEAKER_02: I'm just saying it's like you tried to get down to the deeper story
- 36:01of what he was doing and like what you exposed was that he was
- 36:04doing something
- 36:07SPEAKER_02: pretty amazing in,
- 36:08SPEAKER_02: in some way,
- 36:10SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 36:10SPEAKER_02: even though it's completely nefarious and you're not like,
- 36:14SPEAKER_02: like supporting that in any way.
- 36:15I just mean like what you uncovered was,
- 36:19was more than just,
- 36:20you know,
- 36:21the crime.
- 36:21SPEAKER_02: It was, I don't know, something deeper there.
- 36:25And I think that's why I enjoyed this book so much because I
- 36:29think it dug another layer of,
- 36:32SPEAKER_02: that I'm not used to seeing.
- 36:35SPEAKER_01: Thanks for saying that.
- 36:36SPEAKER_01: I'm grateful.
- 36:37SPEAKER_01: I really tried to figure this guy out.
- 36:40SPEAKER_01: And the absence forger,
- 36:42SPEAKER_01: the person,
- 36:44SPEAKER_01: lowercase,
- 36:44SPEAKER_01: non-italics,
- 36:45SPEAKER_01: the absence forger,
- 36:47SPEAKER_01: is,
- 36:47SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 36:49SPEAKER_01: it's going to,
- 36:50SPEAKER_01: the idea of that person is going to stay with me for a long time.
- 36:52SPEAKER_01: Because like I said,
- 36:53I'm used to talking to creative people who want to show you
- 36:56their creativity.
- 36:57SPEAKER_01: And this was a guy who was creative, but secret about it.
- 37:01And that's a different take for me compared to the people I
- 37:05normally interview.
- 37:07SPEAKER_02: No, I mean, it's fascinating.
- 37:10How do you go down that path rather than taking that obvious
- 37:15skill that he had and
- 37:18SPEAKER_02: doing something else with it?
- 37:20SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 37:20SPEAKER_02: like he very much could,
- 37:22SPEAKER_02: I think,
- 37:22SPEAKER_02: even though he probably has to use a different name.
- 37:26SPEAKER_00: I connect that with something that I think,
- 37:29SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 37:29SPEAKER_00: I found fascinating in this topic in your book,
- 37:33SPEAKER_00: and it's the psychology of obsessions,
- 37:36SPEAKER_00: right?
- 37:37And this like crosswalk in between how that obsession operates
- 37:44in the actual work
- 37:45SPEAKER_00: and the actual craft and why someone
- 37:48got an obsession about this and you know if art is obsessive in
- 37:52itself of the craft
- 37:53is obsessive in itself all these questions about historical
- 37:57products and and
- 37:59artifacts and things that we i don't know mystified exotic side
- 38:05and and yeah i
- 38:06SPEAKER_00: think this this uh
- 38:09SPEAKER_00: leads to very deep psychological questions of art production.
- 38:13SPEAKER_00: Because in the end,
- 38:14SPEAKER_00: this is like,
- 38:16I think what you're addressing here is this connection between
- 38:18gastronomy and art.
- 38:20SPEAKER_00: And I was thinking, you know, like fake artists, right?
- 38:25Like they reproduce originals and that doesn't mean they are
- 38:29not super talented and
- 38:31SPEAKER_00: that they don't have a genuine interest and,
- 38:33SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 38:34SPEAKER_00: just a great taste.
- 38:36SPEAKER_00: So is this like mix of,
- 38:40SPEAKER_00: The art in itself of a reproduction,
- 38:42SPEAKER_00: even if it's not,
- 38:43SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 38:44SPEAKER_00: even if there is a lie involved.
- 38:47SPEAKER_00: And then you address the psychology of obsession,
- 38:52SPEAKER_00: but also how that it's like enhanced by the prohibition,
- 38:56SPEAKER_00: the words of prohibitions.
- 38:58SPEAKER_00: So it's so, but the whole thing is fascinating.
- 39:01SPEAKER_01: There was one of the collectors I talked to.
- 39:07SPEAKER_01: She's a little bit not a fan of absinthe.
- 39:09SPEAKER_01: She's coming from the historic part.
- 39:11SPEAKER_01: She's a collector,
- 39:12SPEAKER_01: but she said she doesn't,
- 39:13SPEAKER_01: she's not that crazy about the taste,
- 39:15SPEAKER_01: but she used this word
- 39:17and to explain what people wanted like because these are
- 39:21priceless antiques these
- 39:22bottles are from 120 140 or getting close to 180 years ago and
- 39:29for me we probably
- 39:30shouldn't be drinking them but these people buy them and drink
- 39:33them you know finito
- 39:35it's gone and you think what you know what what is this that
- 39:42makes you want to
- 39:44take this thing that of which there might be only one in
- 39:46existence in the world and
- 39:48SPEAKER_01: just drink it.
- 39:49SPEAKER_01: And she said, they want it to be part of their bodies.
- 39:52SPEAKER_01: They're so interested in the spirit.
- 39:55SPEAKER_01: They want to literally incorporate it into their bodies.
- 39:59SPEAKER_01: so that it becomes part of them.
- 40:01SPEAKER_01: You're like starting to get into some sort of transubstance.
- 40:04SPEAKER_01: We just had Easter here.
- 40:07You're starting to think about an almost religious aspect of
- 40:13wanting to consume this thing.
- 40:16SPEAKER_01: You desire it so much, you want it to be part of yourself.
- 40:19SPEAKER_01: And it is a little hard for me to understand.
- 40:21SPEAKER_01: I've been able to taste a few
- 40:24SPEAKER_01: pre-bands, just a few, maybe a half dozen or so.
- 40:29SPEAKER_01: And they're great,
- 40:30SPEAKER_01: but I always kind of feel bad that,
- 40:32SPEAKER_01: oh boy,
- 40:32SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 40:34SPEAKER_01: there's no more of this left or no one else will ever taste it after me.
- 40:40SPEAKER_03: Last white rhino.
- 40:41SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 40:42SPEAKER_01: Buy absinthe, son.
- 40:43SPEAKER_01: They ain't making any more of it, at least for the pre-bands.
- 40:47SPEAKER_01: To paraphrase that one.
- 40:49SPEAKER_02: So are there still more bottles out there to be discovered?
- 40:53SPEAKER_01: Do you think?
- 40:56SPEAKER_01: When I was finishing up,
- 40:57SPEAKER_01: I think the edits on the book,
- 41:00I was researching oddball absinthe names to double check
- 41:04spelling and things like that.
- 41:05SPEAKER_01: I came across an auction in Europe of a rare bottle or two.
- 41:11SPEAKER_01: And I wrote to a collector,
- 41:13SPEAKER_01: one of the famous German collectors,
- 41:14SPEAKER_01: Wolfgang Klotz,
- 41:15SPEAKER_01: who's in the book.
- 41:18SPEAKER_01: And I said, hey, is this auction legit?
- 41:21SPEAKER_01: And he said, yeah, yeah, I'm watching it too.
- 41:24SPEAKER_01: And it was just another 120-year-old bottle of absinthe.
- 41:28SPEAKER_01: I think there were three of them that were coming up for auction.
- 41:30SPEAKER_01: It wasn't Sotheby's, but it was somebody's auction house like that.
- 41:35These bottles come up once a month,
- 41:40every few months,
- 41:41maybe even a case or something.
- 41:43SPEAKER_01: These collectors are out there chasing down the last available bottles.
- 41:46SPEAKER_01: That was just fascinating for me that they're using...
- 41:49SPEAKER_01: Detective techniques to figure out where there might be,
- 41:53SPEAKER_01: where somebody might have stashed a case.
- 41:58SPEAKER_01: year 19,
- 42:00SPEAKER_01: 1910,
- 42:00SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 42:00SPEAKER_01: and they're actually tracking down purchase orders from 1910 and saying,
- 42:06SPEAKER_01: knocking on doors of old mansion and chateau and saying,
- 42:09SPEAKER_01: you have a wine cellar.
- 42:11SPEAKER_01: Is there any chance that you have a case of absence in the wine cellar?
- 42:14SPEAKER_01: They're doing all kinds of things.
- 42:15SPEAKER_01: And they're,
- 42:15they're actually surfacing these bottles and sharing them
- 42:18amongst themselves in
- 42:19SPEAKER_01: this sort of such,
- 42:20SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 42:21SPEAKER_01: sub Rosa underground world,
- 42:24SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 42:25SPEAKER_02: That's cool.
- 42:26SPEAKER_02: And I'm trying to think what other spirits have that.
- 42:30SPEAKER_01: Well, there's a whole thing about dusty bottles.
- 42:33SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 42:34SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I guess bourbon.
- 42:36SPEAKER_01: But those bottles are often 20 or 30 or 40 years old.
- 42:40SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 42:40With the pre-banned bottles,
- 42:41there's a real cutoff date for French bottles of 1914,
- 42:451915.
- 42:45SPEAKER_01: There's just the war starts.
- 42:48SPEAKER_01: Absence is temporarily banned and then permanently banned.
- 42:51SPEAKER_01: Well, for a century.
- 42:53SPEAKER_01: most of a century.
- 42:55SPEAKER_01: So there, there are collectors in all kinds of worlds.
- 42:59And one of these absence collectors actually pulled out some
- 43:02old scotches and
- 43:04SPEAKER_01: vermouths and,
- 43:05SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 43:06SPEAKER_01: and,
- 43:06SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 43:06SPEAKER_01: digestives,
- 43:07SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 43:07SPEAKER_01: Amari and so forth.
- 43:08SPEAKER_01: And he, he had a Jamaica rum.
- 43:10We opened a Jamaica rum from 1886 that he hadn't just,
- 43:16just had weird things.
- 43:17SPEAKER_01: Uh, absolutely one of the greatest drinking experiences of my life.
- 43:21SPEAKER_01: Um,
- 43:21SPEAKER_01: Sure.
- 43:22SPEAKER_01: Yeah, because you're tasting history.
- 43:24Yeah.
- 43:29SPEAKER_00: Yeah, that's another crossword, right?
- 43:30SPEAKER_00: Like the art of artifacts, right?
- 43:36And the fascination about it,
- 43:38all the talent involved and the historical value of it.
- 43:42But then the art of the production of the liquid that the
- 43:47barrel contains,
- 43:48SPEAKER_00: which is another whole thing,
- 43:51SPEAKER_00: And then all the food symbolism involved,
- 43:54SPEAKER_00: which is something that food studies focus on,
- 43:58SPEAKER_00: which is you consume the other,
- 44:00SPEAKER_00: you consume others.
- 44:02That's why cannibalism is so interesting for anthropologists
- 44:05and as a line of cooking,
- 44:08SPEAKER_00: if you will,
- 44:09SPEAKER_00: or consumption,
- 44:11because you are consuming something from outside and you're
- 44:14becoming that other thing.
- 44:16SPEAKER_00: And that counts for every food item.
- 44:20SPEAKER_00: or culinary production.
- 44:23SPEAKER_00: So I'm not surprised that in this case with Absent,
- 44:27these people are fascinated by becoming the people that were
- 44:30consuming it,
- 44:31SPEAKER_00: people from that time and the whole thing.
- 44:34SPEAKER_00: It's so proper of the food world and how it works.
- 44:40SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 44:40SPEAKER_01: it's a special sub-world of its own,
- 44:42but it does connect to a lot of other things that we see in
- 44:46culinary studies or
- 44:46SPEAKER_01: food studies about how people react to
- 44:51um foods and drinks they love um this sort of obsession with
- 44:55absinthe you can see
- 44:56it echoed in other obsessions that people have there are
- 45:00ratings for absinthe that
- 45:01are not unlike rating sites for craft beer um and so forth so
- 45:06there is a kind of
- 45:07SPEAKER_01: echo it's just a really weird subcult of its own and
- 45:12I don't really count as an absinthe collector,
- 45:14but I'm friends with a lot of them.
- 45:16And I have been lucky enough to go to their parties and little
- 45:21soirees and taste
- 45:23SPEAKER_01: some of these special bottles from the past.
- 45:26SPEAKER_01: It's been really great.
- 45:28SPEAKER_02: Do you have a favorite absinthe, the one that's being produced today?
- 45:33SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I like that.
- 45:34SPEAKER_01: I mean, I don't want to make any enemies or anything.
- 45:39SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 45:40SPEAKER_01: in Switzerland,
- 45:41SPEAKER_01: in the Val de Trever,
- 45:41SPEAKER_01: I'm a big fan of the clandestine absinthe that are available in the U.S.
- 45:48SPEAKER_01: as well.
- 45:50SPEAKER_01: Those are great.
- 45:51SPEAKER_01: They're straight from the Val de Trever.
- 45:52SPEAKER_01: They're very traditional.
- 45:53SPEAKER_01: I live in the Czech Republic.
- 45:54SPEAKER_01: There's a distiller here, Martin Zufanek.
- 45:57Big Z.
- 45:58Looks like a percentage sign,
- 45:59but it's a letter Z.
- 46:01Zufanek,
- 46:02he makes great absinthe.
- 46:03SPEAKER_01: He's part of my story.
- 46:04SPEAKER_01: He was one of the collectors.
- 46:05SPEAKER_01: He knew the absinthe forger, the man himself.
- 46:10SPEAKER_01: There's a whole chapter dedicated to him.
- 46:13SPEAKER_01: I've been trying a number of other absents,
- 46:17SPEAKER_01: and I did a book tour in the U.S.,
- 46:19SPEAKER_01: and I got to taste a few of the absents.
- 46:21SPEAKER_01: St.
- 46:21SPEAKER_01: George has great absents.
- 46:23There's several others that I've tasted that were just,
- 46:27you know,
- 46:28really great.
- 46:29SPEAKER_01: If you want to drink absents,
- 46:30SPEAKER_01: the place to go is the Val de Trever,
- 46:32SPEAKER_01: though,
- 46:32SPEAKER_01: where,
- 46:32SPEAKER_01: like,
- 46:33SPEAKER_01: if you're in a train station and they have a little quickie mart,
- 46:36SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 46:37SPEAKER_01: Literally they'll have like 10 or 20,
- 46:4020 bottles of absence in the Mart because that's what they
- 46:43produce in that Valley.
- 46:45SPEAKER_02: And it's still,
- 46:46SPEAKER_02: it's being consumed just like as a casual drink in these little valleys,
- 46:51SPEAKER_02: people are still making it.
- 46:53SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 46:53SPEAKER_02: How,
- 46:54SPEAKER_02: how,
- 46:54SPEAKER_02: how is it,
- 46:55how is consumption in like these places and like these rural
- 46:58parts of Switzerland
- 46:59SPEAKER_02: where it's made?
- 46:59SPEAKER_02: Is it, they just drink, you know, a little bit at a time?
- 47:04SPEAKER_02: Is it an all night thing?
- 47:06SPEAKER_01: No, they'll tell you that it's really reserved for special occasions.
- 47:11SPEAKER_01: It's not an everyday drink.
- 47:13SPEAKER_01: It's something with friends.
- 47:16SPEAKER_01: It's where when you have somebody over,
- 47:19SPEAKER_01: It's a special event to drink absinthe.
- 47:22SPEAKER_01: But there's a shop there run by a great distiller,
- 47:25SPEAKER_01: Christophe Racine,
- 47:27SPEAKER_01: and he makes wonderful absinthe.
- 47:28SPEAKER_01: He's won awards and so forth.
- 47:29SPEAKER_01: And he has a little shop.
- 47:30SPEAKER_01: And I stopped in to see him the last time I was there.
- 47:32And people are coming in every 10 minutes or so,
- 47:36coming in to pick up a bottle.
- 47:37SPEAKER_01: And they're not tourists.
- 47:39SPEAKER_01: They're just local people who are picking up a bottle because...
- 47:42SPEAKER_01: You know, it's May.
- 47:43SPEAKER_01: We're going to have a picnic in a couple days.
- 47:47SPEAKER_01: Our friends are coming over this weekend.
- 47:48SPEAKER_01: So we wanted to get something nice.
- 47:50SPEAKER_01: It's really treated as maybe like champagne might be or something.
- 47:55SPEAKER_01: It's a special event drink, but it's something you welcome someone with.
- 47:58SPEAKER_01: It's not something you drink with supper every day.
- 48:01SPEAKER_01: Although during the period of the ban in Switzerland,
- 48:06SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 48:06SPEAKER_01: it was something that people,
- 48:07SPEAKER_01: that was their normal spirit there.
- 48:12SPEAKER_01: That's what you drink.
- 48:13SPEAKER_01: And it still has this kind of connection,
- 48:14SPEAKER_01: but largely they'll say that it's more like a special event drink.
- 48:17SPEAKER_01: It's expensive.
- 48:18SPEAKER_01: It's not something you'd want to drink.
- 48:20SPEAKER_01: crack open every day.
- 48:22SPEAKER_02: What do you feel when you drink absinthe?
- 48:25SPEAKER_02: Can you explain the buzz of it?
- 48:31To me,
- 48:32it feels distinct from everything,
- 48:35but I haven't drank much absinthe.
- 48:37SPEAKER_02: It's been a few times in Brooklyn.
- 48:41SPEAKER_02: I don't know what that means.
- 48:44SPEAKER_01: The idea is supposed to be that absinthe is that there's nothing...
- 48:50SPEAKER_01: dangerous about absinthe itself,
- 48:52SPEAKER_01: that it is just alcohol,
- 48:54SPEAKER_01: that the thujone,
- 48:55this neurotoxin is in there at such low levels that it can't
- 48:58really affect you.
- 48:59SPEAKER_02: And it's in lots of things too, right?
- 49:01SPEAKER_02: Like Thujan is in... It's in Sage.
- 49:04SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah, right.
- 49:05SPEAKER_01: You get some when you, you know, it's in a lot of things.
- 49:09SPEAKER_01: But yeah, Thanksgiving dinner, I guess you probably get some.
- 49:13But there's a maximum limit to import it into the United States
- 49:16or to produce it in the EU.
- 49:17SPEAKER_01: It's 35 milligrams per liter.
- 49:20It's less than that in the US,
- 49:22but there's a maximum limit because it's considered a toxin.
- 49:27SPEAKER_01: The idea is supposed to be that it's only alcohol that affects you.
- 49:30But if you've ever had an herbal tea that really calmed you
- 49:33down or if you've ever
- 49:35SPEAKER_01: gotten really jacked up on coffee,
- 49:38SPEAKER_01: you're like,
- 49:39SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 49:39just one particularly good espresso or French press and you're
- 49:44just sailing.
- 49:45There's something of that in absinthe and that you are drinking
- 49:48a spirit that has a
- 49:50SPEAKER_01: lot of herbs in it.
- 49:52SPEAKER_01: Those herbs have stimulatory and calmative effects on people.
- 49:57SPEAKER_01: It's new.
- 49:58SPEAKER_01: And so what I find when I drink absinthe is that,
- 50:01SPEAKER_01: yes,
- 50:01SPEAKER_01: it's alcohol and it is a relaxant and whatever,
- 50:05SPEAKER_01: but there is this kind of
- 50:07SPEAKER_01: cerebral happening that I start daydreaming really fast.
- 50:12SPEAKER_01: I start having really good thoughts.
- 50:14SPEAKER_01: It's like drinking an espresso as well as drinking alcohol or something.
- 50:20SPEAKER_02: Espresso martini.
- 50:22SPEAKER_02: Yeah, there you go.
- 50:23SPEAKER_01: It might be something like that.
- 50:24SPEAKER_01: It has some sort of
- 50:26SPEAKER_01: Speedball effect of being both stimulatory and relaxing.
- 50:31SPEAKER_01: So I find it induces reverie.
- 50:36SPEAKER_01: I start having lots of thoughts.
- 50:42SPEAKER_00: Do you know the chemical explanation of it?
- 50:44Like with caffeine,
- 50:45how it like stimulates or the specific thing that causes that?
- 50:49SPEAKER_00: Well,
- 50:50SPEAKER_01: I have a 16 year old who understands chemistry,
- 50:52SPEAKER_01: but I haven't taken chemistry in almost 40 years.
- 50:57SPEAKER_01: I don't know exactly how this works,
- 50:58but the neurotoxin does bind to some of the receptors in the
- 51:02brain that pick up cannabinoids.
- 51:05SPEAKER_01: It's similar to cannabis.
- 51:06SPEAKER_01: It was thought to be related to the cannabinoid receptor thing.
- 51:10SPEAKER_01: That has kind of since been disproven,
- 51:13SPEAKER_01: as I understand it,
- 51:14SPEAKER_01: but for a long time,
- 51:15SPEAKER_01: it was thought that,
- 51:16SPEAKER_01: too,
- 51:18SPEAKER_01: Joan,
- 51:18SPEAKER_01: operated in the same way as cannabis or cannabinoids did on the brain.
- 51:24SPEAKER_01: There is certainly something that does...
- 51:28happen if you talk to people who drink absinthe regularly and i
- 51:32know people who
- 51:32drink it every day and they will tell you oh no it's absolutely
- 51:37different like i
- 51:38love beer i love vodka i love gin drinking absinthe is its own
- 51:41thing and it is it
- 51:43affects your brain in a nice way you you're getting drunk you
- 51:47know you're or
- 51:48SPEAKER_01: intoxicated
- 51:50in the normal way,
- 51:51but you're also getting this herbal tea thing or caffeine thing.
- 51:56And in the book,
- 51:57I mentioned that I once got really jacked up on verbena,
- 52:02verbena tea.
- 52:02I was drinking an herbal tea,
- 52:04a Tizan,
- 52:05a French herbal tea with a friend in Paris.
- 52:08SPEAKER_01: And we both just got really jacked up.
- 52:13SPEAKER_03: We were sort of hot.
- 52:15SPEAKER_01: It's like that.
- 52:16SPEAKER_01: It's an herb or an herbal distillate that has some of the effects of...
- 52:22SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 52:23SPEAKER_00: it's based on plants anyway.
- 52:25Yeah,
- 52:26like having that,
- 52:26but it's like,
- 52:27I'm trying to think of other herbal spirits.
- 52:31SPEAKER_00: I mean, mezcal is a similar thing, doesn't it?
- 52:34SPEAKER_00: Because it has this medicinal...
- 52:37SPEAKER_00: I don't know about that stimulant effect,
- 52:39SPEAKER_00: but there is this herbal quality,
- 52:43SPEAKER_00: right?
- 52:44SPEAKER_00: In mezcal, for sure.
- 52:45SPEAKER_00: But yeah,
- 52:46SPEAKER_00: maybe this seems to be stronger in terms of the effect of...
- 52:51SPEAKER_02: But like amaros and things like that,
- 52:53SPEAKER_02: they have lots of herbs and botanicals in them.
- 52:56SPEAKER_02: But I can't say I've ever felt...
- 53:01SPEAKER_02: like I do with absinthe when drinking an Amaro.
- 53:05SPEAKER_01: No,
- 53:06SPEAKER_01: and the Amari Amaros,
- 53:07SPEAKER_01: they're delicious,
- 53:09SPEAKER_01: but those are primarily herbs that are designed to,
- 53:14SPEAKER_01: or we use them to calm or stimulate our stomachs,
- 53:20SPEAKER_01: basically.
- 53:20SPEAKER_01: We use them after a meal.
- 53:23SPEAKER_01: So you have things that...
- 53:25stimulate the appetite or which make us feel not so full after
- 53:29a meal,
- 53:30that kind of thing.
- 53:31The herbs that are in absinthe,
- 53:34I mean,
- 53:34I don't know if people have written lots of
- 53:38SPEAKER_01: poems or odes to Amari,
- 53:41SPEAKER_01: but the number of Impressionist paintings that have absinthe,
- 53:45SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 53:46great Impressionist paintings that have a little glass of
- 53:48absinthe in the foreground,
- 53:50and you can tell there was something about this spirit that was
- 53:54not just of its age
- 53:55SPEAKER_01: in 19th century France and Paris,
- 53:58SPEAKER_01: but also it was really important for these artists.
- 54:01SPEAKER_01: They liked the color.
- 54:03SPEAKER_01: It was this kind of dead green
- 54:06SPEAKER_01: And that, but they also must've liked the spirit.
- 54:08SPEAKER_01: I mean, we know they drank it.
- 54:10SPEAKER_01: They, they talked about drinking it.
- 54:11SPEAKER_01: They loved it.
- 54:12So.
- 54:15SPEAKER_00: And as these people say to you,
- 54:17SPEAKER_00: yeah,
- 54:18SPEAKER_00: it's definitely not like drinking beer or wine or other,
- 54:21SPEAKER_00: other things.
- 54:24How do you feel studying and digging into it so much has
- 54:30affected your intellectual
- 54:32SPEAKER_00: take on beverage?
- 54:34SPEAKER_00: Like, did you feel the difference approach on it?
- 54:37SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 54:37Like the analysis of it made you realize certain things about
- 54:41the world of beverage
- 54:42SPEAKER_00: that you didn't get with beer,
- 54:44SPEAKER_00: which you are an expert on that.
- 54:46Well,
- 54:46I had a real interesting experience with absinthe in that I
- 54:50drink too much of it.
- 54:52and and i didn't drink it for over 10 years afterwards i got i
- 54:58got sick so on the
- 54:59new york times story like you were yeah when i was a part of
- 55:03that i was i was i
- 55:04just overindulged and i could not drink it and not feel i just
- 55:09couldn't and smell i
- 55:10do the same thing with stories like i have to like these travel
- 55:13stories where you
- 55:13have to like eat something or like the same dish or i don't
- 55:18know something like
- 55:18SPEAKER_02: that and
- 55:20SPEAKER_02: you like force yourself even to like beyond comfort.
- 55:23SPEAKER_02: It's not about the enjoyment of it anymore.
- 55:26SPEAKER_02: It's just like,
- 55:27SPEAKER_02: it's for research and you have to,
- 55:31SPEAKER_02: for research and you just have to overindulge and taste everything.
- 55:36SPEAKER_02: And it's, it becomes too much.
- 55:38SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 55:39SPEAKER_01: I took 10 years off.
- 55:40SPEAKER_01: I didn't, I didn't drink absinthe for 10 years.
- 55:42SPEAKER_01: So when I came back to it.
- 55:44So when that happens intellectually,
- 55:46I mean,
- 55:46intellectually,
- 55:47what was the process of it?
- 55:50SPEAKER_01: Intellectually,
- 55:50I came back to absinthe because I came across this story about
- 55:56this counterfeiter
- 55:57SPEAKER_01: and this gang of amateur detectives who tracked him down.
- 56:02SPEAKER_01: And that that stimulated my interest intellectually to follow the story.
- 56:07But at the time,
- 56:07I hadn't had absinthe in 10 years more than I didn't want to
- 56:11drink it.
- 56:12What happened in the course of writing the book is that I came
- 56:16back to Absinthe and
- 56:17SPEAKER_01: I found a place for it in my life,
- 56:20SPEAKER_01: a very small place as a very occasional beverage.
- 56:25But I'm no longer completely fascinated by it and I'm no longer
- 56:30completely repulsed by it.
- 56:32SPEAKER_01: And instead, I'm just sort of in balance with it, I think.
- 56:36SPEAKER_01: I hope.
- 56:41SPEAKER_00: The mature approach.
- 56:42SPEAKER_01: Well, maybe it's that way with most things.
- 56:45I mean,
- 56:46I had a friend who was really into beer and learned all about beer.
- 56:52SPEAKER_01: And then he got into grappa.
- 56:55SPEAKER_01: And he said,
- 56:56I'm not going to make the mistake I made with beer and where I
- 56:58learn everything
- 56:59SPEAKER_01: about it.
- 57:00I'm not going to learn anything about grappa because I want it
- 57:03to be interesting to
- 57:04SPEAKER_01: me every time.
- 57:06Ignorance,
- 57:07it's not just bliss,
- 57:08but it sometimes helps you maintain your interest,
- 57:11I guess.
- 57:13SPEAKER_02: Someone told me recently,
- 57:15SPEAKER_02: it's like some of the best writers writing about a subject,
- 57:19SPEAKER_02: like a food subject,
- 57:20SPEAKER_02: are the ones that
- 57:22SPEAKER_02: they don't really know anything about the food.
- 57:25SPEAKER_02: It's just, they're excited about it.
- 57:27And it's just that interest,
- 57:29that level of interest is what gets other people interested in it.
- 57:33And,
- 57:34you know,
- 57:34just having that excitement about it is what kind of drives you.
- 57:38And then once you know everything and then it's like,
- 57:42I don't know,
- 57:43no one's interested anymore.
- 57:44SPEAKER_02: And it's like, you can't write about it in the same way.
- 57:48SPEAKER_01: Yeah, I felt like I had to relearn everything about Absinthe.
- 57:51It was a completely new subject to me when I wrote The Absinthe
- 57:55Forger because I'd
- 57:55SPEAKER_01: just taken more than 10 years off.
- 57:58SPEAKER_01: And so it was a very new experience to come back to it.
- 58:01SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 58:03what i i think we often overindulge intellectually with food
- 58:10and drink and
- 58:10overanalyze and become experts and sometimes when you become an
- 58:14expert you can't
- 58:15see things anymore whereas somebody new can come to the subject
- 58:18and say oh that's
- 58:20interesting this is like this other thing and you'll say no you
- 58:23don't know what
- 58:23SPEAKER_01: you're talking about you're not
- 58:25But the person who's approaching it with fresh eyes has a
- 58:30perspective that is valuable.
- 58:33Whereas when you know something too much,
- 58:35you might overlook obvious details.
- 58:38SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 58:39SPEAKER_02: like part of what led you down this absence path,
- 58:45SPEAKER_02: at least I think I've read in the book or,
- 58:48SPEAKER_02: yeah,
- 58:48SPEAKER_02: I think it says this in the book that
- 58:50SPEAKER_02: You needed story ideas.
- 58:51SPEAKER_02: It was the pandemic.
- 58:53SPEAKER_02: And this story just kept popping up to you.
- 58:58SPEAKER_02: But travel writing has become so difficult since the pandemic.
- 59:04SPEAKER_02: It's been so... There's just no place for it anymore, it seems.
- 59:09SPEAKER_02: Do you think it'll ever come back in any way?
- 59:14SPEAKER_03: I think most things...
- 59:16which sense i mean it's just there's very little places
- 59:19publishing in-depth travel
- 59:21writing it's just become you know like it was already shifted
- 59:26you know everything
- 59:27online to just you know headlines and clickbaits and 10 best
- 59:31list of everything but
- 59:33SPEAKER_02: there's
- 59:34SPEAKER_02: there's not like places for 3000 to 5,000 word features of just like deep
- 59:41exploration of a place that's not attached to like a hotel or
- 59:46an organized tour or
- 59:48SPEAKER_02: something like that.
- 59:51We talked a little bit about this because we have a shared
- 59:54publishing history,
- 59:55I guess.
- 59:57SPEAKER_01: And it came up and I'll tell you what I think.
- 59:59SPEAKER_01: I think everything comes back.
- 1:00:03vinyl was dead 20 years ago and vinyl is decidedly not dead now
- 1:00:10and nobody would
- 1:00:12have predicted that vinyl would have come back in the way that
- 1:00:15it has as a format
- 1:00:17for not just collectors but as a fun I mean it was great vinyl
- 1:00:21was fun and it was a
- 1:00:22drag that vinyl went away but when you say my vinyl collection
- 1:00:26is back there yeah
- 1:00:28SPEAKER_01: there you go
- 1:00:30SPEAKER_01: When you say that,
- 1:00:31SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:00:32and it's true that there are fewer outlets publishing quality
- 1:00:36travel writing or
- 1:00:37SPEAKER_01: food writing at the places.
- 1:00:39SPEAKER_02: I don't necessarily mean quality.
- 1:00:41SPEAKER_02: Like you could still find quality shorter things, little blurbs.
- 1:00:44SPEAKER_01: There's fewer outlets.
- 1:00:45SPEAKER_01: There's less of that stuff.
- 1:00:46SPEAKER_01: A lot of our...
- 1:00:51SPEAKER_01: ways of sharing stories have switched over to video, right?
- 1:00:55SPEAKER_01: There's a lot more on Instagram.
- 1:00:57SPEAKER_01: There's a lot more on YouTube and so forth.
- 1:00:59SPEAKER_01: That is a way of telling stories about food producers,
- 1:01:03SPEAKER_01: food trails,
- 1:01:03SPEAKER_01: whatever you want to call it.
- 1:01:05SPEAKER_01: So that's one aspect that where it's not writing anymore.
- 1:01:08SPEAKER_01: It's not the same kind of writing.
- 1:01:09SPEAKER_01: It's not text.
- 1:01:10SPEAKER_01: It's not a codex.
- 1:01:11SPEAKER_01: It's not a newspaper.
- 1:01:13SPEAKER_01: But I do think everything's going to come back.
- 1:01:15SPEAKER_01: I mean, I do think things come back and they cycle in and out.
- 1:01:18And there was a point when e-books were the future and there
- 1:01:22was not going to be
- 1:01:23SPEAKER_01: planned anymore.
- 1:01:23SPEAKER_01: And that didn't pan out exactly the same way.
- 1:01:27SPEAKER_01: E-books do exist and the other one as well.
- 1:01:30And there will be YouTube videos and Instagram and visual
- 1:01:36storytelling in the film
- 1:01:38SPEAKER_01: format or moving picture format.
- 1:01:41And I think there will also be long form and reporting and not
- 1:01:45just listicles.
- 1:01:45SPEAKER_01: You know, I think there's room for it.
- 1:01:47But we're certainly in one of those points when the pendulum's
- 1:01:50at its furthest point,
- 1:01:52I think.
- 1:01:53SPEAKER_02: Right, right, right.
- 1:01:55SPEAKER_02: No, I would hope there's room for it.
- 1:01:58SPEAKER_02: I think people are traveling now more than ever.
- 1:02:03SPEAKER_02: I think they do want,
- 1:02:04SPEAKER_02: they're oversaturated with the list,
- 1:02:06with the amazing and completely adulterated Instagram photos of
- 1:02:13just the magical
- 1:02:14SPEAKER_02: place that won the rainbow fucking mountain in Peru or whatever.
- 1:02:19SPEAKER_01: There's this thing in Prague.
- 1:02:22SPEAKER_01: There's an artwork that's in the main library downtown.
- 1:02:26SPEAKER_01: It's like a kilometer from here.
- 1:02:28SPEAKER_01: This is our library branch.
- 1:02:31SPEAKER_01: And somebody put it on some kind of TikTok or social media.
- 1:02:37So now there's a line every morning to go see this artwork
- 1:02:40that's been there for 30 years.
- 1:02:42SPEAKER_01: And it's not particularly great.
- 1:02:45SPEAKER_01: It's a tower made out of books with a mirror at the top and the bottom.
- 1:02:48SPEAKER_01: So it looks like it goes up forever or something.
- 1:02:50And you kind of stick your head in and there's a little opening
- 1:02:53and you can take a
- 1:02:53SPEAKER_01: picture in front of it.
- 1:02:55But it went from being this thing that you just have in your
- 1:02:58town and it's just
- 1:03:00SPEAKER_01: always there to being a thing that there's suddenly a line to see.
- 1:03:02SPEAKER_01: And you go, why is there a line?
- 1:03:04SPEAKER_01: This is just a dumb piece of art.
- 1:03:07SPEAKER_01: You don't need a line to see that.
- 1:03:09SPEAKER_01: And I'm not crazy about that kind of thing,
- 1:03:12this sort of herd mentality of there's a top 10 list and then
- 1:03:17everyone just goes to
- 1:03:17SPEAKER_01: those 10 restaurants.
- 1:03:21SPEAKER_01: Or somebody says, you need to see this thing.
- 1:03:23And I think if you go there and you think this is what Prague is,
- 1:03:27you'll be disappointed.
- 1:03:28SPEAKER_01: It's just a dumb sculpture made out of books.
- 1:03:32SPEAKER_01: It's kind of cool, but it's not something you should wait in line for.
- 1:03:36SPEAKER_01: There's a line there every day.
- 1:03:37And it's hard to get into the library because people are
- 1:03:40standing there not to go
- 1:03:41SPEAKER_01: get books or return books or...
- 1:03:44SPEAKER_01: Use a computer.
- 1:03:44SPEAKER_02: To take a fucking selfie.
- 1:03:46SPEAKER_01: They want to take a selfie in front of this piece of art that's,
- 1:03:49SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:03:51SPEAKER_01: it's been there for a long time.
- 1:03:52SPEAKER_00: Well, many people like to be told what to do.
- 1:03:55SPEAKER_01: They do.
- 1:03:55SPEAKER_01: They do.
- 1:03:56SPEAKER_01: And they just want to know.
- 1:03:58SPEAKER_01: I mean,
- 1:03:58SPEAKER_01: sometimes you get people who come to a town and they say,
- 1:04:02SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:04:02SPEAKER_01: they'll say,
- 1:04:03SPEAKER_01: I'm going to New York.
- 1:04:04SPEAKER_01: What do I need to see?
- 1:04:05SPEAKER_03: And you go, what are you doing?
- 1:04:08SPEAKER_01: Or I'm in New York.
- 1:04:09SPEAKER_01: Where should I go?
- 1:04:10SPEAKER_01: And you go, oh my God, you should have planned this earlier.
- 1:04:13SPEAKER_02: No, I get those questions all the time too.
- 1:04:17SPEAKER_02: Where do I eat in Lima?
- 1:04:20SPEAKER_02: There's fucking a thousand great restaurants.
- 1:04:22SPEAKER_02: You need to be more specific.
- 1:04:24SPEAKER_02: Come on.
- 1:04:25SPEAKER_02: What do you really want to eat?
- 1:04:27SPEAKER_02: Why do you want to eat it?
- 1:04:30SPEAKER_02: Use your goddamn brain, people.
- 1:04:33SPEAKER_00: Or just walk.
- 1:04:35SPEAKER_00: The amazing thing you find.
- 1:04:36SPEAKER_00: I had such a great...
- 1:04:42time in Prague because I really didn't have,
- 1:04:46like I was there 25 years ago.
- 1:04:47SPEAKER_02: I didn't remember it really at all,
- 1:04:50SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 1:04:50SPEAKER_02: other than just some vague,
- 1:04:52SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 1:04:52SPEAKER_02: ideas of streets and things like that.
- 1:04:55SPEAKER_02: But there was no like specific things I wanted to go back to.
- 1:04:58SPEAKER_02: There wasn't any really specific anything I wanted to see or go visit.
- 1:05:05And I just walked around for like several days and the weather
- 1:05:09was beautiful and
- 1:05:11SPEAKER_02: When I was thirsty, I'd stop and I'd get a beer or some food.
- 1:05:16SPEAKER_02: And it was just fucking lovely.
- 1:05:19SPEAKER_02: And I wish I could travel more like that.
- 1:05:23SPEAKER_02: And I wish more people would just travel like that.
- 1:05:25SPEAKER_02: Just go to a place and get fucking lost in it.
- 1:05:28SPEAKER_02: And things will happen.
- 1:05:30SPEAKER_02: And it's great.
- 1:05:32SPEAKER_01: There's got to be room for serendipity, right?
- 1:05:36SPEAKER_01: It's tough.
- 1:05:38SPEAKER_01: We have so much information.
- 1:05:40available it's hard not to use it but you know you can see
- 1:05:45sometimes and you know
- 1:05:47this as well when you write sometimes things just go out of
- 1:05:49date you know or they
- 1:05:50reprint an article from five years ago and they didn't update
- 1:05:53it and so you know
- 1:05:54it's out of date but i think it has to do too with the personal
- 1:06:01take on things like
- 1:06:02SPEAKER_00: like this is connection with your own body you are told what to eat
- 1:06:07SPEAKER_00: in which measure, because you need this and this.
- 1:06:09SPEAKER_00: What about me figuring out what I need every day?
- 1:06:13SPEAKER_00: I think it's the same.
- 1:06:15SPEAKER_00: Instead of creating year-round take on the city,
- 1:06:18SPEAKER_00: We are so afraid of missing out what we are supposed not to miss out.
- 1:06:27We've let other people on the internet decide for us what we're
- 1:06:31supposed to do all the time.
- 1:06:32SPEAKER_02: Instead of thinking for yourself and researching things,
- 1:06:37SPEAKER_02: we take whoever's opinion on fucking Twitter or whatever thing it is now.
- 1:06:44SPEAKER_02: We just accept this very vocal person's viewpoint all the time.
- 1:06:50SPEAKER_02: Yes, yes.
- 1:06:52SPEAKER_02: You develop no critical thought about whatever situation.
- 1:06:56SPEAKER_00: Most important thing.
- 1:06:57SPEAKER_00: Yeah, there has to be...
- 1:07:00SPEAKER_00: You're missing by not wanting to.
- 1:07:02SPEAKER_00: Exactly.
- 1:07:02SPEAKER_01: FOMO is is evil.
- 1:07:05SPEAKER_01: And there's so much that happens when you just let serendipity help you.
- 1:07:12SPEAKER_01: I've had some really great travel experiences that way.
- 1:07:14I tend to I don't travel that much,
- 1:07:16to be honest,
- 1:07:17unless it's really for work.
- 1:07:19SPEAKER_01: I've got family and kids and everything.
- 1:07:21SPEAKER_01: I like to be here.
- 1:07:23SPEAKER_01: But sometimes I come up with.
- 1:07:25SPEAKER_01: dumb things to do.
- 1:07:26SPEAKER_01: Like,
- 1:07:27SPEAKER_01: like,
- 1:07:27I really want to see a certain house that some architect may
- 1:07:32not really important,
- 1:07:33SPEAKER_01: but it's just from,
- 1:07:34SPEAKER_02: no,
- 1:07:34SPEAKER_02: but it gives you some direction.
- 1:07:41SPEAKER_01: And,
- 1:07:42SPEAKER_01: or birdwatching,
- 1:07:44SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:07:44SPEAKER_01: I think this summer I'm going to go,
- 1:07:46SPEAKER_01: there's some place I can go see.
- 1:07:49SPEAKER_01: I'm not a birdwatcher.
- 1:07:50SPEAKER_01: I'm not a birder, but,
- 1:07:52But there is a place where you can see a certain rare bird in
- 1:07:55South Moravia.
- 1:07:55SPEAKER_01: And I'm like, that sounds cool.
- 1:07:57SPEAKER_01: I don't like to see a rare bird.
- 1:07:59SPEAKER_01: So it's the Great Bustard.
- 1:08:02SPEAKER_01: It's the largest... Largest bustard?
- 1:08:07SPEAKER_01: Largest flying bird, I think, in weight or something like that.
- 1:08:12SPEAKER_01: I don't know.
- 1:08:13SPEAKER_01: It's a reason to travel.
- 1:08:14SPEAKER_01: And it gets you there that is not a list of 10 best.
- 1:08:20SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 1:08:21SPEAKER_02: Next time, I'll save time for the great buster.
- 1:08:25SPEAKER_01: South Moravia, I'm telling you.
- 1:08:28SPEAKER_01: And in Spain, I think you can see them there too.
- 1:08:29SPEAKER_01: They're really big.
- 1:08:30SPEAKER_01: They're really, really large.
- 1:08:32But the point is really to find a reason to do anything and
- 1:08:36just to try to find a
- 1:08:37SPEAKER_01: way to enjoy the short amount of time that we have on this planet.
- 1:08:41Nobody knows how long you get and you should find happiness and
- 1:08:45pleasure where you can.
- 1:08:48SPEAKER_01: Right?
- 1:08:49SPEAKER_02: Yeah, in absinthe or anything.
- 1:08:54SPEAKER_01: Yeah, bird watching.
- 1:08:55SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 1:08:57SPEAKER_02: All right, man.
- 1:08:58SPEAKER_02: We could talk for hours.
- 1:08:59SPEAKER_02: We didn't even get into Chili's at all.
- 1:09:02SPEAKER_01: Oh, I know, right?
- 1:09:05SPEAKER_02: I know you're into Chili's.
- 1:09:08SPEAKER_01: Another time, another time.
- 1:09:09SPEAKER_01: Thanks for having me on the podcast.
- 1:09:11SPEAKER_01: It's great to meet you.
- 1:09:12SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, it's a pleasure.
- 1:09:13SPEAKER_02: I really enjoyed the book,
- 1:09:14SPEAKER_02: and I hope people go out and buy it,
- 1:09:16SPEAKER_02: and I hope it gets turned into a movie because I think it would be great.
- 1:09:19SPEAKER_01: I really think it should be turned into a movie, right?
- 1:09:22SPEAKER_02: I do.
- 1:09:22SPEAKER_02: Max, Max, if you're listening, get on that.
- 1:09:26SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we'll find out more about that.
- 1:09:29SPEAKER_01: Thanks for having me on the podcast.
- 1:09:30SPEAKER_02: Thanks, man.
- 1:09:32SPEAKER_01: Take care.
- 1:09:33SPEAKER_02: Thank you, everyone, for listening.
- 1:09:35SPEAKER_02: I hope you enjoyed that interview with Evan Rail,
- 1:09:39SPEAKER_02: who lives in Prague and wrote The Absinthe Forger,
- 1:09:43SPEAKER_02: which is in bookstores now.
- 1:09:45SPEAKER_02: Go check it out.
- 1:09:46SPEAKER_02: It's a great book.
- 1:09:48SPEAKER_02: And if you haven't subscribed to the newsletter yet,
- 1:09:51SPEAKER_02: just go to newwelder.com or search for New Welder on Substack.
- 1:09:57SPEAKER_02: Also, check out our YouTube channel.
- 1:09:59SPEAKER_02: Check out my books.
- 1:10:02SPEAKER_02: And that's it.
- 1:10:03SPEAKER_02: Thank you all.
- 1:10:04And thank you to my friend Pat Buzzard for providing the music
- 1:10:07to the show.
- 1:10:09SPEAKER_02: See everyone later.