Latest / The Grim: Haunted Cemeteries & Graveyard Tales / Reap What You Sow | Picpus Cemetery, Paris France
Transcript
- 0:14Kristin: Grim morning and welcome to the Grim.
- 0:17Kristin: I'm your host, Kristen.
- 0:18Kristin: On today's episode, we'll be opening the gate and entering Picpas Cemetery, located in Paris, France.
- 0:25Kristin: The aroma of coffee mingles in the air.
- 0:28Kristin: The gates stand open.
- 0:30Kristin: Step carefully.
- 0:31Kristin: It's time to descend into the hauntings of history.
- 0:34Kristin: Many times in life were offered small pieces of advice that linger far longer than expected.
- 0:40Kristin: One came from a manager I once worked with speaking of Paris.
- 0:44Kristin: I was preparing to move to London for a few years, and he told me, if I ever found myself in Paris to explore it on foot and to walk without destination.
- 0:53Kristin: Because no matter how much you plan, the true Paris reveals itself not in its monuments, but its ordinary streets and in the quiet rhythm of daily life.
- 1:03Kristin: Picbus Cemetery is one of those places, rarely spoken of by name, yet its residents are known across the world.
- 1:10Kristin: A place that history haunts openly.
- 1:13Kristin: Beneath its unassuming exterior lies a fragment of Paris that has witnessed centuries, absorbing history not just as a resting place for the dead, but as a silent participant in it.
- 1:24Kristin: Even with modern maps, it has a way of slipping past being noticed, hidden behind a plain residential street marked by only a locked gate that offers no invitation unless you already know to look for it.
- 1:36Kristin: Entry is limited to short, quiet hours, Monday through Saturday from 2 to 5 in the afternoon.
- 1:42Kristin: And even then, access can feel uncertain.
- 1:45Kristin: A buzzer sits by the gate, though it's not always answered on the first attempt.
- 1:49Kristin: Some visitors find themselves waiting, calling again.
- 1:53Kristin: There is a small entry fee, modest enough to deter the casually curious rather than the genuinely intentional.
- 2:00Kristin: No grand archway, no sweeping gardens, and no visual promise of what lies beyond.
- 2:05Kristin: For some, this lack of ceremony can almost feel anticlimatic, a place so heavy in history, yet so restrained in presentation.
- 2:14Kristin: And yet that is what precisely changes everything.
- 2:17Kristin: Because if you arrive with no expectation of spectacle, if you understand what rests beneath the soil before you step through that gate, the space begins to shift.
- 2:26Kristin: What first feels closed off and unremarkable slowly deepens into something else entirely, not a destination in the traditional sense.
- 2:35Kristin: But a historian's silence made physical, a memory that has not been dressed up or softened for passing eyes, something closer to preservation than presentation, or perhaps something closer to the truth.
- 2:47Kristin: The name Picpis is believed to derive from the old French piquet pus, meaning flea bite, a reference to monks who once treated skin ailments here, wounds that marked the body in small, persistent traces.
- 3:00Kristin: It feels in a way fitting, a name born from irritation, from marks left behind, much like the history embedded in this ground.
- 3:08Kristin: Today it remains one of the two private cemeteries in Paris still in operation, but entry in death, much like in life, is not open to all on these grounds.
- 3:17Kristin: The qualifications for a burial in Picapus make more sense, though, once you know its history.
- 3:23Kristin: Before the French Revolution, these grounds belonged to a convent, complete with an enclosed garden, quiet, contained, and untouched by the chaos brewing beyond its walls.
- 3:33Kristin: But that stillness would not last, because this would become one of the most significant burial sites of the reign of terror.
- 3:40Kristin: During those violent final months of the French Revolution, Paris transformed into a city of suspicion and blood.
- 3:47Kristin: The monarchy had fallen, the republic had risen, and in its wake came something far less certain.
- 3:53Kristin: Fear that spread quickly through its streets, accusations of treason, whispers of dissent, and a justice system that moved with terrifying speed.
- 4:03Kristin: The guillotine, once introduced as a symbol of humane execution, became something else entirely.
- 4:08Kristin: By the summer of 1794, it stood at the edge of the city, just beyond the barrier du Tron, what is now the Palace de la Nation, then known as the Palace du Tron Reverse.
- 4:19Kristin: For six weeks, between June 13th and July 28th, it worked relentlessly.
- 4:25Kristin: At times, as many as 55 people were executed in a single day.
- 4:30Kristin: In those brief weeks alone, more than 1,300 lives were taken, nearly half of all executions carried on Paris during the Revolution.
- 4:38Kristin: The pace was not only brutal, it was unsustainable.
- 4:42Kristin: The bodies began to accumulate.
- 4:44Kristin: The Revolutionary Tribunal needed a solution, one that was quick, efficient, and above all discreet.
- 4:50Kristin: Public sentiment was already shifting.
- 4:52Kristin: The terror once tolerated was becoming something the people themselves feared.
- 4:57Kristin: And so just five minutes away, the garden at Picpus was chosen.
- 5:01Kristin: What had once been a quiet comment enclosure was repurposed into something far darker.
- 5:06Kristin: In June of 1794, a pit was dug at the far end of the garden.
- 5:11Kristin: When the carts arrived, the process was methodical.
- 5:14Kristin: Bodies were brought through an entrance along what is now Avenue de Saint-Mandie.
- 5:18Kristin: Their clothing were removed and catalogued, then without ceremony.
- 5:22Kristin: They were cast into an open pit, nobles beside labors, nuns beside soldiers, strangers in life bound together in death.
- 5:30Kristin: The pit remained opened as it filled.
- 5:33Kristin: When necessary, quick lime was scattered over the bodies to dull the smell of decay.
- 5:37Kristin: At first, the workers were paid with the clothing taken from the dead.
- 5:41Kristin: But as executions increased, even that was deemed too valuable to give away.
- 5:46Kristin: The state kept the proceeds.
- 5:48Kristin: Within weeks, the first pit was full.
- 5:50Kristin: A second pit was then dug beside it.
- 5:52Kristin: The dead were packed tightly, so tightly that heads were placed wherever space allowed, filling the gaps between the bodies.
- 6:00Kristin: There was every expectation that more graves would be needed, that the executions would continue, and that this quiet garden would become something permanent.
- 6:09Kristin: But history shifted.
- 6:10Kristin: The man who had come to embody the terror, Maximilian Rospierre, was himself arrested and executed in July of 1794, during what became known as the Thermidorian Reaction, and then just as suddenly as it began, it stopped.
- 6:25Kristin: The garden at Picpis was closed.
- 6:27Kristin: Today the names of 1,306 men and women are inscribed in the chapel walls, each one drawn from those mass graves.
- 6:36Kristin: Among them, nobles, clergy, soldiers, and hundreds of ordinary citizens, lives interrupted not by who they were, but by when they lived.
- 6:44Kristin: Sixteen Carmelite nuns were counted among the dead, ranging in age from 29 to 78.
- 6:50Kristin: It's that they sang hymns when they were led to the scaffold, a quiet act of defiance or perhaps acceptance.
- 6:57Kristin: Their story would later be immortalized in Francis Poulin's opera, The Dialogues of the Carmelettes.
- 7:03Kristin: Historians still debate, though, when the true terror began.
- 7:06Kristin: Some point to 1793 with the rise of the tribunal.
- 7:10Kristin: Others trace it earlier to the September massacres, or even the first violence of 1789, but its end is far more certain.
- 7:19Kristin: By July of 1794, the blade had fallen silent.
- 7:23Kristin: More than 16,000 official death sentences had been carried out across France, thousands in Paris alone.
- 7:30Kristin: And beyond that number were the uncounted, those executed without trial, those who died waiting in prison, never seeing judgment at all.
- 7:39Kristin: When the blade finally fell silent and the reign of terror came to its abrupt end, Paris didn't simply return to normal.
- 7:46Kristin: It exhaled.
- 7:48Kristin: Those who'd fled began to return.
- 7:50Kristin: Others stepped cautiously out from hiding, re-entering a city that must have felt unfamiliar.
- 7:56Kristin: Quieter, yes, but marked by absence, faces missing from windows, voices that would never be heard again.
- 8:03Kristin: For many, survival came with a question that had no easy answer.
- 8:07Kristin: Where were they?
- 8:08Kristin: In 1797, during the rule of the Directory, the land of Picpus was quietly purchased by Amali Zephyrin of Salam Kerberg.
- 8:16Kristin: Her brother, Frederick III, Prince of Salam Kerberg, had been executed during the terror, his body lost among the many buried here.
- 8:24Kristin: But for years, family didn't know where here was.
- 8:27Kristin: In the early 1800s, relatives of the victims, including Audrienne de Lafayette, and her sister, began searching the burial place of those they had lost, not for ceremony, not even for certainty, just for a place to stand and say, This is where you are.
- 8:43Kristin: It wasn't an easy search.
- 8:44Kristin: Many of the aristocracy had survived only because they had fled France.
- 8:49Kristin: They hadn't seen the executions.
- 8:51Kristin: They hadn't followed the carts through the streets.
- 8:53Kristin: They returned to a city that had buried its dead quickly and in many ways quietly.
- 8:58Kristin: And in the end, it was not a noble who guided them.
- 9:01Kristin: It was a young woman, a commoner, who had lost her father and her brother.
- 9:05Kristin: She had followed the cart that had carried their bodies.
- 9:08Kristin: She had watched from a distance where they were taken, and she remembered.
- 9:12Kristin: Because of her, the garden at Picpus was found again.
- 9:15Kristin: What they discovered was not a cemetery in any traditional sense.
- 9:18Kristin: There were no marked graves, no names, just earth that held too many stories, and so they made a decision not to move the dead, but to stay with them.
- 9:27Kristin: In 1802, a group of families came together to purchase the land.
- 9:31Kristin: They formed a private association bound not by title but by shared loss.
- 9:36Kristin: The garden became both a memorial and a cemetery, one that would exist alongside the mass graves, not erase them.
- 9:43Kristin: Even today, burial epippus remains deeply personal.
- 9:47Kristin: Only the descendants of those who were executed and buried here were allowed to be laid to rest within the grounds.
- 9:54Kristin: Generations quietly returning to one place, because of something that happened in just a few terrible months.
- 10:00Kristin: There is only one exception, Gilanotre, the historian who devoted himself to preserving the memory of Picpus and the lives tied to it.
- 10:09Kristin: In 1804, a small religious community arrived at Picpus and quietly settled into the old convent buildings that still stood nearby the mass graves, founding the Congregation of Sacred Hearts of Mary and Jesus.
- 10:22Kristin: The sisters who lived there, formerly known as the Sisters of the Sacred Hearts of Mary and Jesus, a perpetual adoration, came for a very specific purpose.
- 10:31Kristin: Their life was not built around to retreat from the world, but remembrance within it.
- 10:36Kristin: They prayed for the dead, for the victims buried beneath their feet, and in a gesture that almost feels difficult to sit with.
- 10:43Kristin: They also prayed for those who had taken their lives.
- 10:46Kristin: There is something deeply human about that choice.
- 10:49Kristin: An attempt not to erase what had happened here, but to hold it in prayer, to keep it from becoming something else entirely forgotten.
- 10:57Kristin: Papicpus was never allowed to remain untouched for long.
- 11:01Kristin: History wasn't finished with these grounds just yet.
- 11:04Kristin: Decades later, Paris would once again turn inward on itself toward the upheaval of the Paris Commune.
- 11:10Kristin: In its final days, what became known as the Bloody Week, the city collapsed into a familiar pattern, barricades, retaliation, and the streets once again filled with the weight of violence.
- 11:21Kristin: It was during this unraveling that the events unfolded as what is remembered as the massacre of Ruhaco.
- 11:27Kristin: Over several days, roughly 110 priests and gendarmes were executed by the communard forces.
- 11:33Kristin: Among them were priests tied directly to the quiet enclosure of Picpa Cemetery itself.
- 11:39Kristin: Even here, within a place defined by prayer and enclosure, the city's violence found a way to echo back through the walls.
- 11:47Kristin: As if Paris, no matter how many times it turns the page, can never fully stop reading its own past, as if history could not quite stop repeating itself in the places where it hurt most.
- 11:59Kristin: And yet within all that darkness, one grave holds something different, defined forever by revolution, freedom, and military brilliance.
- 12:08Kristin: The Marquis de Lafayette, on September 6, 1757, at the quiet stronghold of the Chateau de Chavanac, a child came into the world with a name that carried centuries behind it.
- 12:21Kristin: Marie-Joseph Paul Ives Roche Gilbert du Montieu, known to us as Lafayette.
- 12:28Kristin: His bloodline stretched deep into the morrow of France itself.
- 12:31Kristin: Legends clung to it, of an ancestor who carried the crown of thorns home from the Sixth Crusade, of another who wrote beside Joan of Arc in the desperate days of Orleans, but legacy could not shield him from grief.
- 12:44Kristin: When Lafayette was only two years old, his father was killed instantly, struck by a cannonball at the Battle of Mendine.
- 12:52Kristin: In a single moment, the child inherited a title and a silence that would follow him.
- 12:57Kristin: His mother, unable to bear the weight of that loss, withdrew to Paris, leaving him behind in Chavanac to be raised by his grandmother.
- 13:05Kristin: By the time he reached adolescence, death had taken her too, and by 15, Lafayette was already an orphan, where wealth and title drew attention quickly.
- 13:14Kristin: The powerful Nawai family arranged his marriage to Adrien du Noailles in 1774, a union as strategic as it was tender.
- 13:23Kristin: Through her, Lafayette entered the prestigious Noai Dragoons, stepping into a future already mapped out for him, but destiny had other plans.
- 13:32Kristin: In 1775, while stationed in Metz, Lafayette sat at a dinner that would quietly alter the course of his life.
- 13:39Kristin: Here he heard whispers of rebellion, of distant colonies rising against the might of Britain.
- 13:45Kristin: The cost are something deeper than ambition, and echoed the ideals he had begun to embrace the Freemasonry, liberty, moral duty, the belief that power should answer to the people, and beneath it all, perhaps something more personal, a quiet enduring resentment toward Britain, the nation whose war had taken his father.
- 14:04Kristin: In the summer of 1776, Lafayette secured a promise from Silas Dean for a position in the American cause, but France had not yet chosen sides, and the king forbade officers from leaving.
- 14:16Kristin: So Lafayette did what would define him again and again.
- 14:19Kristin: He disobeyed.
- 14:20Kristin: Secretly, he purchased a ship in April of 1777, and at just 19 years old, he sailed across the Atlantic toward a revolution that was not yet his own.
- 14:31Kristin: When he arrived, the Continental Congress appointed him a major general.
- 14:34Kristin: He refused payment, though.
- 14:36Kristin: He wouldn't fight for fortune but for principle.
- 14:38Kristin: Here he met George Washington, forming a relationship that would transcend rank.
- 14:43Kristin: Washington became a father figure, Lafayette, a devoted son in all but name.
- 14:48Kristin: Unlike many European officers, he listened, he adapted.
- 14:52Kristin: He believed in the man he fought beside.
- 14:54Kristin: Lafayette in return became deeply loyal not just to the man, but to the cause they were fighting for.
- 15:00Kristin: He fought across multiple campaigns, was wounded at the Battle of Brandywine in 1777, and endured the brutal winter at Valley Forge in 77-78, sharing the same hunger, cold, and exhaustion as the Continental Army.
- 15:16Kristin: He even used his own personal fortune to help supply the troops when resources ran low, and he didn't stop at the battlefield.
- 15:23Kristin: Lafayette returned home to plead for support and succeeded.
- 15:26Kristin: French troops and resources would soon tip the balance of the war.
- 15:30Kristin: When he came back to America, it was to help deliver its final act.
- 15:34Kristin: In 1781, Lafayette played a key role in the Virginia campaign that led to the British defeat at Yorktown, a decisive moment of the American Revolution.
- 15:44Kristin: The war at last was ending.
- 15:46Kristin: When the war officially ended in 1783, he returned to France no longer just as a nobleman, but as something larger.
- 15:53Kristin: A nation had been born, and Lafayette had helped bring it into the world.
- 15:57Kristin: But a revolution is a fire that rarely burns in only one place.
- 16:01Kristin: When Lafayette returned home, France itself stood on the edge.
- 16:05Kristin: By the late 1780s, France was approaching collapse, economic crisis, inequality, and political tension were building toward revolution.
- 16:14Kristin: Lafayette became involved early, believing reform was possible without destruction.
- 16:19Kristin: When the French Revolution began in 1789, he supported constitutional change.
- 16:24Kristin: He helped draft the Declaration of Rights of Man and of the Citizen, trying to define liberty and equality in a structured, lawful way.
- 16:32Kristin: He was also placed in command of the National Guard in Paris, positioning him directly in the center of a city beginning to fracture.
- 16:39Kristin: But as the revolution grew more radical, Lafayette found himself increasingly out of step with it.
- 16:45Kristin: He believed in constitutional monarchy, a balance between reform and stability.
- 16:50Kristin: The revolution was moving towards something far more extreme, and that position became dangerous.
- 16:56Kristin: He refused to support the execution of the king or violent seizure of property, and for that, he became an enemy.
- 17:03Kristin: By 1792, he was accused of treason, and with political enemies closing in, he attempted to flee France, but he didn't make it far.
- 17:11Kristin: Lavette was captured by Austrian forces and spent years imprisoned in Europe, first in the Netherlands, then Prussia, and finally in the fortress of Almaz.
- 17:21Kristin: When he was held there, France entered its darkest phase, the reign of terror, when thousands were executed in the name of justice.
- 17:28Kristin: He was released only in 1797 after diplomatic pressure from several nations, including the United States.
- 17:35Kristin: By the time he returned, France had already moved through revolution, terror, and into the directory.
- 17:40Kristin: The world he had once tried to shape had already reshaped itself without him.
- 17:44Kristin: He still remained present in its unfolding, Napoleon's rise, the fall of an empire, the Bourbon Restoration, and even the July Revolution of 1830, when he briefly stepped back into political life once more.
- 17:57Kristin: Yet through all of these sweeping changes, his personal life remained anchored to the same quiet thread of loss and memory.
- 18:04Kristin: His wife, Adrienne de Lafayette, had been imprisoned during the revolution because of her family's name and associations.
- 18:12Kristin: She survived, but only after years of fear and separation, as members of her extended family were swept into the violence of the terror.
- 18:20Kristin: Many of them ultimately became victims of the guillotine and laid to rest in what would become the Picpas burial ground.
- 18:26Kristin: After her release, she returned to Paris, her health broken by the experience, and would eventually be laid to rest here, and in time, so would he.
- 18:35Kristin: In 1824, President James Monroe invited Lafayette back to the United States, not as a soldier, but as an honored guest.
- 18:43Kristin: He traveled through all 24 states, greeted by crowds who saw something rare in him, a living bridge to their founding.
- 18:51Kristin: Cities bore his name, cheers followed him like echoes of a past that refused to fade.
- 18:56Kristin: And during that final visit, he returned to Bunker Hill, standing once more on the ground where the revolution that shaped him had begun to take form.
- 19:04Kristin: Here he laid the cornerstone of its monument.
- 19:07Kristin: Even in his later years, history still called him back.
- 19:11Kristin: During the July Revolution of 1830, Lafayette again stood at the center of change, helping to remove King Charles X and install Louis-Philippe as a constitutional monarch.
- 19:21Kristin: He was offered power, a dictatorship even, but he refused.
- 19:25Kristin: It was never power he wanted, only principle.
- 19:29Kristin: When he was laid to rest in Paris in 1834, soil from Bunker Hill was buried with him, carried from Charlestown, Boston, one of the earliest and most defining sites of the American Revolution.
- 19:41Kristin: One small piece of one revolution, resting in the shadow of another.
- 19:45Kristin: Buried within the same family enclosure as Adrian, granted through her family's connection to those buried here during the reign of terror, there is a quiet irony in that resting place.
- 19:55Kristin: Victims of the same revolutionary violence Lafayette had once tried to guide, but never fully control, now lying beside him in death.
- 20:03Kristin: Even in burial, his story remains bound to two worlds and never truly left.
- 20:08Kristin: Famously during World War I, American expeditionary forces marched through Paris on the 4th of July in 1917, concluding with a ceremony at Lafayette's grave.
- 20:19Kristin: Colonel Charles E.
- 20:20Kristin: Stanton then delivered his speech but first said, Lafayette, we are here.
- 20:25Kristin: The moment symbolized America's commitment to repaying its revolutionary war debt to France.
- 20:30Kristin: And above Lafayette's grave, an American flag still flies, maintained by the local chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution.
- 20:38Kristin: Each year, it's renewed on the 4th of July, often with members of the DAR, the Society of the Cincinnati, and representatives of the United States Embassy gathering quietly in remembrance.
- 20:50Kristin: A man who believed in liberty long enough to see it become something far more complicated than he ever imagined.
- 20:56Kristin: Even in the 20th century, Pictus remained a place that seemed to sit slightly apart from the world around it, protected, almost suspended in its own quiet history.
- 21:06Kristin: During the occupation of Paris and the Second World War, an American flag continued to fly over Lafayette's tomb.
- 21:12Kristin: It was renewed and maintained throughout the occupation, and remarkably, the cemetery and convent complex were never entered by German forces.
- 21:20Kristin: There's something striking about that detail, this small, enclosed space of memory holding steady through yet another period of occupation and fear, as if it existed just outside the reach of the city's suffering, but not everything around it remained untouched.
- 21:36Kristin: In 1852, the financer James Mare du Rothschild established the Rothschild Hospital and hospice next to the cemetery, originally intending to serve Jewish patients.
- 21:47Kristin: Decades later, under the Vici regime's collaboration with Nazi Germany, that same hospital would become entangled in the machinery of persecution.
- 21:57Kristin: Patients who survived their illnesses were not always.
- 22:00Kristin: Safe once they left their beds.
- 22:02Kristin: Many were deported to concentration camps.
- 22:04Kristin: And yet within that same system, there were moments of silent resistance.
- 22:09Kristin: Some hospital staff risked everything to protect their patients.
- 22:13Kristin: They created false death certificates.
- 22:15Kristin: They recorded false stillbirths, finding small and dangerous ways to make people disappear on paper so they might survive in reality.
- 22:23Kristin: Those who were safe were quietly moved out of the hospital and hidden in the surrounding neighborhood.
- 22:28Kristin: Some were even sheltered within the convent on the grounds of Picbus itself.
- 22:32Kristin: So even here, in a place already shaped by mass death and memory, there were acts of preservation, silent rebellion, with choices to protect life, where history had so often taken it away.
- 22:44Kristin: Visitors often describe it as deeply quiet, almost unsettling in its stillness, as though the world outside has been gently turned down and left that way.
- 22:53Kristin: On one visit, organ music suddenly drifted through the chapel from an unseen player practicing alone, filling this space with something one witness called an appropriate air of respect.
- 23:04Kristin: At times, a nearby elementary school during recess convoke the quiet with children's laughter, in a way, telling the victims laughter and love still does exist in the world today.
- 23:15Kristin: Hidden behind plain brown doors along an ordinary residential street, Pickbus Cemetery gives no indication of what lies beyond it.
- 23:23Kristin: There's no grand entrance, no dramatic announcement, only a threshold that many pass without ever realizing what they've walked past and remains quiet, overlooked, and almost deliberately forgotten, and perhaps that's what makes it so haunting.
- 23:39Kristin: Unlike places shaped by legend or curated for curiosity, Pygpus has not been packaged in this spectacle.
- 23:46Kristin: There's no tourism built on its weight, no theatrical mythology layered over its ground.
- 23:52Kristin: It simply remains, sealed away in its own silence.
- 23:56Kristin: Beneath that silence lie 1,306 victims of the Reign of Terror, buried in unmarked graves, and above them, nearly two centuries of uninterrupted prayer, continuing day after day in a rhythm that is never fully broken.
- 24:10Kristin: It's not a place that performs its history.
- 24:13Kristin: It keeps it locked behind closed doors.
- 24:16Kristin: For now, the stories of Picpas slip back into stone, and the dead return to their uneasy rest.
- 24:22Kristin: And thank you for walking with us through the veil into Picpas Cemetery, descending once more into the hauntings of history.
- 24:29Kristin: The gate is sealed, the veil drawn, yet death keeps no calendar, and so we shall return, as we always do, on the grim.