Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / Beef with Costume Designer, Helen Huang
Transcript
- 0:11Because we talked a lot about how I knew a lot of men that
- 0:14were free tshirts. And saying that, Danny probably
- 0:18got a lot of tshirts from like job fairs and likes, and I
- 0:24actually had a vintage Sprint tshirt.
- 0:26Either way, it's perfect storytelling through cost.
- 0:30It's so funny. Hello, and welcome to the Art of
- 0:44Costume podcast. I am your host, Spencer
- 0:48Williams, and thank you so much for joining me for another bonus
- 0:51episode. What's going on?
- 0:53Costume nerds, thank you for joining me today.
- 0:57Of course, we're talking all about beef.
- 0:59A incredible show that is currently streaming on Netflix,
- 1:03featuring Ali Wong and Steven Yeun.
- 1:06This is such a good show. It is so funny, so wild, so it
- 1:11has heart to it. It's stressful.
- 1:14I mean, the whole time I was watching it, my anxiety was on
- 1:17level 100 and the costumes are just top tier.
- 1:21We're going to get into all the costumes but.
- 1:24So good It's very I live in Pasadena, which is a beautiful
- 1:29city in California, right next to Los Angeles, LA County.
- 1:33And it's just very Pasadena Art Bomb coated.
- 1:36It's just so fun and I love it. I'm so excited to get into it.
- 1:43But of course, I just want to remind everyone about our
- 1:45upcoming schedule and we are getting back into our regular
- 1:49episodes soon as our third season gets.
- 1:54Kicked off once more. In a few months, talking about
- 2:06the costumes of Mamma Mia, very excited because Elizabeth will
- 2:11be here once again. So next week we will be off, but
- 1:58when we come back in September, September 12th, we are going to
- 2:02be having our first episode. I'm so excited to be reunited
- 2:14with my partner in crime as we get into the brilliant costumes
- 2:18by Anne Roth. The week after we will be then
- 2:22talking about Poker Face with costume designer Tracy Gigi
- 2:26Field. That's September 19th.
- 2:29And then of course on September 26th we will then be talking
- 2:33about the Righteous gemstones. I say this a lot, but The
- 2:37Righteous Gemstones is actually my favorite show right now.
- 2:40I can't stop talking about it. Anyone who actually sees me
- 2:44around in real life knows that I've just been talking about the
- 2:47show. Nonstop it is so good.
- 2:50Just a top tier comedy and the costume designer for season 3,
- 2:54Christina Flannery will be here to talk about the most recent
- 2:57season. So very excited for that.
- 3:00Then of course, will be October and we'll be getting into our
- 3:03spooky season. But we're not yet, Tony.
- 3:05What those episodes are, we're keeping them close to the chest.
- 3:08But all I can say is, is going to be our best spooky season
- 3:12ever. It is so, so strong, The films
- 3:17and shows that we picked so good.
- 3:19You're going to be so excited. So with that I'm.
- 3:21Very excited for you all to keep listening and supporting and we
- 3:27appreciate so much. It's been a interesting year,
- 3:33but we're going to just keep on going.
- 3:35We have some great content coming along.
- 3:36So thank you again for listening.
- 3:38Now let's get into beef. I'll start off with a little
- 3:42summary. Two people let a road rage
- 3:45incident Burrow into their minds and slowly consume their every
- 3:51thought and action. And that is beef.
- 3:54What a what a great way to put it that really all it is.
- 3:58Let's dive behind the costumes. Beef was created by Lee Sangjin,
- 4:04who is also the writer, showrunner, director.
- 4:07This guy does it all. And of course we have the
- 4:10brilliant costume designer Helen Huang, who you will know for her
- 4:14work as Co costume designer on American Horror Story Roanoke,
- 4:18for which she won an Emmy and a Costume Designers Guild Award.
- 4:22She also was a costume designer on 911 Birds of Prey.
- 4:27Holiday for which we have a fantastic holiday episode on.
- 4:32I think it was season one. We talked about Holiday that
- 4:34Elizabeth really, really recommended and became one of my
- 4:38favorite holiday related episodes.
- 4:40So go watch Holiday, listen to that episode.
- 4:44Helen also designed the costumes for the Shrink Next Door and
- 4:48Station 11, and I'm so excited to say that Helen was just
- 4:53nominated. For an Emmy once again for her
- 4:56work on beef. With that being said, costume
- 5:00designer Helen Huang is here in the studio.
- 5:03We're going to take a little break and when we come back
- 5:05we'll be joined by Helen Huang. I'm so excited to.
- 5:34Introduce Costume Designer. Helen Wong.
- 5:37Hey, Helen. Hi.
- 5:38How are you? Good.
- 5:40I'm so excited to finally meet you.
- 5:41It's been a long while. I've, like I said, behind the
- 5:44scenes. I've been wanting to talk to you
- 5:46ever since Holiday, one of my favorite movies, like ever right
- 5:49now. So I've been dying for this
- 5:51moment because, you know, when I was making it, you know, it's
- 5:55like hard to to like. No, because you're making it
- 5:57like A Christmas Story, and those haven't been made in so
- 6:00long, you know, kind of a holiday movie.
- 6:02Right, it's. Top tier best of our generation.
- 6:05I'm saying, but today is all. About beef, which I am obsessed
- 6:10with. I just binged it in a couple
- 6:12hours. Literally.
- 6:15It's a. Wild ride.
- 6:16Literally and metaphorically. So my first question, what was
- 6:20your initial reaction to the story, not just as a costume
- 6:22designer but as a creative? Well, I think to start off with,
- 6:26like I was looking for an Asian showrunner or director or like a
- 6:32Asian cast for a project like that.
- 6:35And then this came along. And I know Sonny the Creator's
- 6:39work because he did the second season of Dave and I love the
- 6:42second season of Dave. I thought it was like such a
- 6:44great balance between sort of humor and really grounded
- 6:49emotion, but sort of like philosophical sort of
- 6:53questioning. And it's like weird, unreal sort
- 6:58of texture to it, you know? And so if it was just like that,
- 7:02when you read the script, there's some very grounding
- 7:05elements to it and the revenge story does push it forward.
- 7:09But in in like, it's true as context.
- 7:11It's just the psych, existential questioning of our lives, you
- 7:15know? And I feel like that's very
- 7:17relevant for today. And of course, you know, like
- 7:22Sonny's writing is extremely tight.
- 7:24There's a lot of dark humor to it.
- 7:26And I just find it fascinating too, with these characters,
- 7:30these Asian American characters I like.
- 7:32I like them being kind of bad people because I feel that
- 7:37equalizes, you know, the storytelling in a way.
- 7:41You know that we get to be in a story sort of like bad and good
- 7:45and everywhere in between, so. It was such an interesting story
- 7:48and you know, kind of like you said, I feel like everyone, no
- 7:51matter who you were watching this story, was able to take
- 7:54something away from it and it kind of spoke to everyone's
- 7:57lives in a way. I mean, I I definitely was
- 7:59feeling that as was watching through the show.
- 8:02So yeah, there's like very modern feeling about sort of
- 8:06what they're going through and the questions that they are
- 8:08asking themselves. Right, So let's dive into the
- 8:11costumes. I believe like.
- 8:13You I also grown. Up in LA, around Lai, live in
- 8:16Pasadena, San Gabriel Valley. You did like San Gabriel?
- 8:20Yeah, so. So I definitely, like,
- 8:24understood what was happening here.
- 8:26This definitely reminded me of, like all the Pasadena moms
- 8:28around all the time. So I really appreciate.
- 8:32The nuance and the costume of these characters.
- 8:34There were two unique worlds very present in the series.
- 8:37That chic, artsy Los Angeles San Gabriel Valley type person and
- 8:42then also. That rifted.
- 8:43Maybe casual skater look, which we'll talk about in a little.
- 8:46Bit so let's. Start with Amy.
- 8:48Walk me through her. Upscale, sophisticated and that
- 8:51white cream color palettes well with Amy.
- 8:55I started by looking at sort of like the like different types of
- 8:59plant stores on Instagram because I feel like there's a
- 9:02component to Amy that's like very controlled, very
- 9:05knowledgeable about what she's putting out into the world in
- 9:07terms of branding her store and herself.
- 9:11And you know, I lived in Silver Lake for a very long time and I
- 9:14just like sort of know these these type of types of people
- 9:18where they would do boutique shopping and their home
- 9:21aesthetic looks a certain way and it's, it's very, very
- 9:25specific and it is upscale. But I think the, the main thing
- 9:30about like what I wanted to do with the two worlds is sort of
- 9:33like, yes, you could say Amy's world has good taste.
- 9:35Danny's world has, you know, kind of 0 taste.
- 9:38But I think it's more about like how these two people are just
- 9:42like in the world and they're both aware of themselves and
- 9:47also yet not aware of their own bubble.
- 9:49And I for me, that was like sort of the most interesting
- 9:52component about dressing her is that she is very aware of the
- 9:55taste level that she's putting out, but sort of like very
- 9:59unaware of how someone like her would look to someone like Danny
- 10:04and the bubble that she's in. And then with her design, we did
- 10:10want to go and Ally's like such a dream to work with.
- 10:13She did want to look very creative and already and so we
- 10:17did go for a lot of boutique labels and we played a lot with
- 10:20like shapes because, you know, she's not afraid of sort of
- 10:23wearing things that are a little bit boxier or bigger, you know,
- 10:27so there. So there wasn't this element of
- 10:29trying to make her more form fitting.
- 10:31And then with the color palette, we really tried like, I had sort
- 10:36of like a big board. And then there was this one
- 10:38section that just had creams and whites.
- 10:40And I was telling Sunny, like, you know, always when I do
- 10:44contemporary TV or film, I always try to think of like,
- 10:47what could be like a surreal element to it, you know,
- 10:50something that's kind of messes with the audience a little bit,
- 10:54you know? And so for me, having her sort
- 10:57of in creams and neutrals and things that feel put together
- 11:02and curated yet relaxed juxtaposes a lot of her actions
- 11:07and a lot of her emotional conflicts underneath.
- 11:11And then also it's a big contrast to how Danny, you know,
- 11:15dresses. And so he really liked the idea
- 11:17and it's what we went with. I also think there's something
- 11:20to people who wear sort of whites and creams.
- 11:22It's like there are people who are very sure of themselves,
- 11:25right? They're pretty sure they're not
- 11:26going to fill throughout the day.
- 11:29And to me that, like, psychological confidence that
- 11:32she has in her, her aesthetic, in her ways, but sort of like
- 11:37this undercurrent of being totally out of control.
- 11:40That's so interesting. Yeah, such an interesting point.
- 11:43Reason why I never wear white, you know, always.
- 11:45Black so I. Definitely understand that using
- 11:48hats and costume design isn't super popular because some
- 11:52people find it. Very difficult you.
- 11:54I feel like this is a master class in hats.
- 11:56Everyone is obsessed with this hat.
- 11:59Amy, where is in the beginning of this series?
- 12:02You have to tell me where this came from.
- 12:04I you know what, I'm pretty sure it's from Urban, but it has no
- 12:07tag in it. So on the costume notes they
- 12:09just wrote vintage. So I'm actually, I don't really
- 12:13remember, but I am a very big, like when I get into a fitting,
- 12:17I like to have all the accessories there because I feel
- 12:20like accessories really sort of like can fine tune a person.
- 12:25You know, the outfit could be really simple and your
- 12:27accessories could sort of direct the character in one way or
- 12:30another. But I am very careful because
- 12:33like you said, directors and producers, they have their own
- 12:36sort of, I guess aesthetic bias against hats.
- 12:39Some of them really hate it. And happy.
- 12:42Yeah. And and have it.
- 12:44They find it really distracting in the scene, you know and other
- 12:47people like love it. And for me, when I tried it on,
- 12:50I really did feel that it was right for this character because
- 12:53also like in the beginning of the of the, the show she's in
- 12:57the car so much and you just want something that sort of
- 13:00speaks to who she her aesthetic sense pretty super fast.
- 13:05And I also really like, like the texture of it because it's like
- 13:08this very warm knit and then you know, the flip upward is kind of
- 13:14like very perky. And so it kind of has like a
- 13:16warm optimism to it, which really contrasts against how she
- 13:21is in that scene, which is just kind of full rage.
- 13:26And so there's this, like the hat creates sort of like this
- 13:28perky softness about her that I think also with the glasses
- 13:33being sort of like a pared back and not very strong sort of in
- 13:37terms of its color way kind of signals a different person than
- 13:41what's happening on screen. And for me, I always try to like
- 13:44look for those moments. And also Sunny was like, yeah,
- 13:48we have to do the hat. He is not afraid of hats, he
- 13:50That's. Good to hear, but I I think it
- 13:55really worked because if people always ask me about it and I
- 13:57heard like people are in Tiktok are like knitting this hat, it's
- 13:59like so weird. Oh, I'm sure.
- 14:01Yeah, become like it's own like thing.
- 14:04The hats taking the world by storm.
- 14:07I think it's just so. And like you said, you know,
- 14:10she's obviously very pissed off of the moment, but you know,
- 14:14she's hiding behind his hat a little bit, trying to tell
- 14:17everyone that she's, you know, smiling and soft and fuzzy, a
- 14:21moment where Amy was not really feeling.
- 14:24So I actually love the Vegas scene.
- 14:26It's so fun to me. It's still very aimy, but
- 14:30there's a little bit of like a shift in her in this moment
- 14:33where you know she's not going to change who.
- 14:34She is but I. Definitely feel like she shows
- 14:37up a little bit more rock'n'roll to the Vegas panel.
- 14:41Yeah. So this outfit is Proenza.
- 14:45And and you're right, like I, we didn't try to change her
- 14:49silhouette as much because we still want this like artistic
- 14:54point of view. And I'm very big on, like with
- 14:56women, you know, in terms of their arc not altering their
- 15:00appearance too much because I feel like there's too, there's
- 15:03been too many sort of shows being like, you know, she feels
- 15:06better. So she'll dress like a
- 15:07completely nonsensical way. That's like, not her and I.
- 15:12Just feel like like no one does that.
- 15:15Also, it doesn't say the best about being a woman.
- 15:17You know about your personal identity.
- 15:20And so I like to keep the personal identities pretty
- 15:22strong. So we did keep her silhouette.
- 15:24There's like Fringe on the bottom of this, and it's still
- 15:28very aimy. But we did change the colorway
- 15:30so it's black. And there's only if you watch
- 15:33the show, there's only like like 2 episodes where she did wear
- 15:37color really strongly, and it was when she was having an
- 15:39affair with Paul. And of course, this is the
- 15:43moment where that shift, this shift was happening.
- 15:45But after that, we did take her back into creams and whites
- 15:49again, because once her life settles down, we didn't want the
- 15:53jarring aspect of her, like sort of changing her life just
- 15:55because in her look, just because she sold her store.
- 15:58Right, exactly. Like who would do that?
- 16:01Like you kind of mentioned. So it was.
- 16:03It was. I've always worn the same outfit
- 16:05no matter what I've gone through.
- 16:06In life so but. Let's talk about Danny a little
- 16:11bit, as you mentioned earlier. And Danny kind of is like the
- 16:14opposite to Amy in terms of at least costuming.
- 16:17It feels, you know, very. Thrifted I I feel.
- 16:20Like, I know Danny personally and what?
- 16:22He chooses aware. And I do think that.
- 16:24There is a little. Bit of a taste, you know.
- 16:26Maybe it's not at Amy's level. So tell me about Danny's
- 16:30costumes. Um, well for Stevens.
- 16:33Uh, for so Danny. Steven plays Danny and he I was
- 16:37really trying to find this character like as we were doing
- 16:40fittings. I went into it being like, I
- 16:42know who this person is because he reminds me of, like, people I
- 16:48knew growing up, like in the San Gabriel Valley and you up there,
- 16:52so you'd probably understand. Now I know Danny and so and so I
- 16:57went into it like being like I know this person, it's very
- 17:00familiar. And you know, I did want Danny
- 17:03to kind of look like he did have some taste.
- 17:05So he, I did want him to feel like he belonged to some
- 17:08subculture at one time or another, and that he just kind
- 17:11of stopped buying clothes at the age of like 25 or 24 and then
- 17:15just kept like wearing the same thing.
- 17:17And if he bought something else, he would just like replace that
- 17:19thing itself, you know, And he doesn't really like move forward
- 17:25in terms of taste. And the other thing with Danny
- 17:29is like we literally like, so Amy was like boutiques from all
- 17:33around. We'd shop so much online for her
- 17:35to make her look so special. And then with Steven, we just,
- 17:37we did so much goodwill and and costume house, but a lot, a lot
- 17:43of goodwill because we were trying to put him in the space
- 17:46where it's like early aughts, so like 1999 to maybe like 2010,
- 17:51sort of like put him in that. So Danny is definitely very
- 17:57subtle, like he's wearing like really faded dickies.
- 18:00You know, the faded under T was like a big sort of choice for
- 18:05him that you know the picture that he's wearing when he's like
- 18:09at the club, you didn't really get a good look at the outfit
- 18:13because it's so dark. But it's like we thrifted ADK&Y
- 18:16shirt for him and then he's wearing like these weird like
- 18:19those really straight Calvin Klein, you know, any slacks.
- 18:25And then he's also wearing square toed shoes and his belt
- 18:28in the scene was like actually a structure belt that are that
- 18:33sunny the creator he held on to since high school.
- 18:36So he like actually lent us that belt for this thing, this scene
- 18:41for authenticity. And then you know the the
- 18:44picture on the side, like with the.
- 18:46Because we talked a lot about how I knew a lot of men that
- 18:49were free tshirts. And saying that, Danny probably
- 18:52got a lot of tshirts from like job fairs and like.
- 18:55And so I actually had a vintage Sprint tshirt for him that they
- 19:03wouldn't let me use because I had like all the Sprint stores
- 19:06in the back. And so the trouble of like
- 19:10buying another tshirt and printing the Sprint logo like on
- 19:13the chest because I felt like so strongly that we need to use it
- 19:18for the same. It's so funny.
- 19:20I didn't notice it until prepping.
- 19:21And I'm like, either he used to work at a Sprint or yeah, like
- 19:24you said, a job fair. Either way, it's perfect
- 19:27storytelling through costume. It's.
- 19:29So funny, yeah. But in many ways, like Danny, I
- 19:33feel very close to Danny because I just like, I think a lot of
- 19:37times, you know, there's a lot of shows where they want to show
- 19:40like rich Asians, you know? And I really wanted to show like
- 19:44Asian men that I knew is kind of growing up, you know, I feel
- 19:47like they deserve like a character that represents them
- 19:49and like a character that they could see reflected back.
- 19:53And I felt a large, a large responsibility to like Danny's
- 19:56costumes. Right.
- 19:58It definitely was a different perspective that we don't really
- 20:01see too often in film and television, and I really
- 20:04appreciate it. Then on the other hand, we have
- 20:07George, which I am obsessed with this man.
- 20:10Specifically, his sweaters I. Love a comfy sweater?
- 20:15And honestly, this is one of my favorite parts of this entire
- 20:18series. I I also.
- 20:20Can't help but think the sweaters kind of describe his
- 20:22character. You know, George is a soft guy,
- 20:25but he's also. Strong in passion, I would say,
- 20:29but still maintains that sort of chic personality because he is
- 20:32Amy's husband too at the same time.
- 20:34So I feel like there's a level that he has to hold himself to.
- 20:37So please, just walk me through George's looks.
- 20:40So with George, we really did want to do an artistic
- 20:44perspective because he came from our artistic family.
- 20:47In fact, in the script it's like the artistic, you know, family.
- 20:51And also, I really do believe that when couples get together,
- 20:54there's usually sort of like a cohesive sensibility that they
- 20:57both share, you know. And so we did want to put them
- 21:02together in terms of that look. And for George, you know, I did
- 21:06want a character where it represented.
- 21:09Sort of like an Asian man's interest in fashion.
- 21:13But I didn't want the fashion to be like like like suits or
- 21:17anything of that, that type of thing.
- 21:20Because I wanted to show sort of more like quiet wealth, you
- 21:24know, like his sweater, $700.00 to $1000.
- 21:28But like when you like, look at it, it doesn't really like look
- 21:31at anything unless you're sort of like in the know, you know?
- 21:34And so like, hey, he's not like a Tom Ford guy.
- 21:36He's more like, what are the newest like?
- 21:38Croc collabs, you know, and the newest, like Solomon collabs
- 21:43that he could, you know, he could buy into.
- 21:46And we did try to keep it in that very neutral palette with
- 21:49the silhouette being really relaxed.
- 21:52But yeah, like we did want him to feel a like Amy's husband but
- 21:56be like he had an identity of his own.
- 21:59And I'm so glad that like people.
- 22:01I think you, like, really like this, you know?
- 22:06Yeah, but I just wanted to show like a man who's like, like
- 22:10interested in fashion, but not in the way that sort of most
- 22:14show show men who are interested in fashion, you know?
- 22:17Right. I mean cuz I guess.
- 22:20Typically in a show, you would assume that he, like you said,
- 22:22would be wearing suits all the time.
- 22:24But he's like a very dedicated father, too.
- 22:27He's always with his daughter, so.
- 22:28Like, why would he be walking around in suits all the time?
- 22:31It just wouldn't make sense. So I think it was brilliant.
- 22:35I'm obsessed with it. This is who I want to be when I
- 22:37grow up. And I had to fight for that
- 22:40tshirt because really, Yeah, Sonny wasn't sure.
- 22:44And I was like, no, you have to put that on.
- 22:46It's so special and like so unique.
- 22:50And he finally let me do it. But I was just like because you
- 22:52know as long as also with hats like it's either like directors
- 22:57or producers, they either like sort of like graphics across the
- 23:00chest or they don't, you know And like sometimes with
- 23:03something like this, it is a bit odd because this is it's like an
- 23:06embroidery tshirt. These are graphics that are
- 23:08embroidered. So it's like harder to
- 23:09understand. But I like George would
- 23:12definitely like pick this up. You know, he's definitely like a
- 23:15decorative guy, but in a very. And then threw on like the most
- 23:19beautiful sweater over it. So with this being a.
- 23:24Contemporary show, I was curious as to how much of your process
- 23:27with this series included, you know we've talked about a little
- 23:30bit already, but sustainable thrifting and buying versus
- 23:34building you would see and maybe a different type of genre show.
- 23:38Well, I do sometimes with modern shows build a lot.
- 23:42It just like depends on. I think building is like it
- 23:46depends on the size of your budget because often times
- 23:49actually building is more expensive than buying.
- 23:52It takes a lot more manpower and it is it does not come cheap and
- 23:56it takes a lot more like process work.
- 23:59So with something like this, we did shoot fast and there was
- 24:02like a budget constraint and so we did a lot of like online for.
- 24:07George and Amy specifically, a lot of online boutique shopping.
- 24:11In fact, a lot of the online stores were really mad at us
- 24:14because so like selective and so specific.
- 24:18We also shopped them a lot at Mohawk General in Silver Lake.
- 24:21Of course, men's, like a lot of George's wardrobe kind, came
- 24:26from there, and also from Mr. Porter.
- 24:28And Amy's sort of came from like Farfetch and Essence and all
- 24:31those companies, but for their world.
- 24:34We did do a lot of like online shopping.
- 24:37I also prefer sometimes online shopping because I just feel
- 24:40like the stores sometimes for contemporary shows don't have
- 24:43enough of what you need to do, like a full character.
- 24:47So it is a harder process because then you spend a lot of
- 24:50your time doing online returns, you know and.
- 24:54Who loves that? And who loves that?
- 24:55But I think it creates a better identity because there's so much
- 25:00more resources, you know, online.
- 25:02And then I do love, whenever I can, using vintage like Amy,
- 25:06actually, for her, a lot of what she wore at the house.
- 25:09You know, her sweatshirts and tshirts, those are all from
- 25:12vintage. Our vintage vendors in LA that
- 25:14we use a lot, all the time for like vintage tshirts and things
- 25:17like that. And obviously if it's someone
- 25:20like Danny who needs to look like some like something that's
- 25:25not like current, we I do tend to shop a lot of like goodwill
- 25:29and things just because there's never anything new that could
- 25:32compare to things that are organically older, you know,
- 25:35because the color ways. Just the cuts.
- 25:38Like they don't exist anymore unless you, like, remake them.
- 25:41Interesting. Fumi was an instant style icon
- 25:45in my eyes. I was obsessed.
- 25:47With her the moment I laid eyes on her.
- 25:49You must. Have had just so much fun
- 25:51crafting these looks, I imagine. Yeah, I mean like, um they the
- 25:56brief was that they wanted her to like we did try to go for a
- 25:59re calico Boo like look. And you know, I told Sonny that
- 26:04if we were to do her character, we would go for it because I
- 26:07don't really like watered down versions of that type of
- 26:11aesthetic just because I think it would like ruins the
- 26:13aesthetic, you know, So we did in the beginning pull a lot of
- 26:17and we use real, real a lot actually, if you talk about
- 26:20sustainability actually on the show a lot.
- 26:24And it's just to find like sort of like one-of-a-kind vintage at
- 26:28a good price. And to just like make the thing
- 26:31more unique. And so we did shop a lot of
- 26:33Comte Garsan and things like that off the real rail, but it
- 26:36did feel a little bit too harsh. And so we had to pivot to sort
- 26:41of like more easy. And there's this great store in
- 26:44LA called Replica, which we I use a lot and they had luckily
- 26:49had a lot of vintage 1980s easy Miyaki.
- 26:54And so we use a lot of that which is like softer in
- 26:58textiles, but. Shape.
- 26:59And then the picture on the bottom, she's wearing pleats,
- 27:01please, which I feel like. I mean if you ever own pleats,
- 27:05please. It's like amazing because idea
- 27:07that you just Bob your clothes and then they just be perfect
- 27:11every time. And I, which I thought like, and
- 27:15then all her rings and stuff like came from Palace, which is
- 27:19a costume house in LA because I really didn't imagine her being
- 27:22like this person who who likes gold or silver, like she would
- 27:26wear resin. And things like that, like
- 27:29things that feel a little bit more like it's a little art
- 27:32piece, you know? Right.
- 27:33I'm. I'm obsessed.
- 27:34I think for everyone listening, you pranking with them a big
- 27:37shopping list after they're done listening.
- 27:40But I am a big fan of breakdown and costumes and it was so much
- 27:45fun watching, you know? All these fun, colorful pieces.
- 27:49And then in the last episode, it's almost like everything
- 27:51falls apart at our. Cast really goes through some
- 27:55things. So how did this episode?
- 27:58Come together with breaking down all these looks.
- 28:00It was hard. We didn't have a lot of time.
- 28:04I think for Amy and Danny that each had seven multiples that
- 28:10would do in different stages and we had to go through it with
- 28:14Sunny to sort of like break it down.
- 28:17But even like the process of finding their costume,
- 28:20especially Amy's costume in this was hard because.
- 28:25We wanted a consume that could do a lot.
- 28:27And so when I found this Tori Bridge blouse, it actually had
- 28:31all the components where she could be at Jordan's house and
- 28:33she could be like really put together and buttoned because of
- 28:36the way it was like tied. And then when she gets to this,
- 28:39the wilderness, like everything sort of can untie and like.
- 28:44Look like she's been through the ringer.
- 28:46And even if you look at in that picture, her collar's not on it
- 28:49anymore because it's a detachable collar.
- 28:52So like, at one point during the script, her collar came off and
- 28:55she was using it like when she had food poisoning to like, wipe
- 28:58her brow like that. So like we didn't want to give
- 29:01them pieces of clothes, you know, like Danny's wearing that
- 29:04specific hoodie. Because I I had to research like
- 29:07how you would make a sling. It was like the most like
- 29:12easiest way to like what Garmin is like the easiest.
- 29:15And so we had to sort of like research all that before putting
- 29:18those outfits together and then. You had to be like, oh, so she
- 29:22falls down a Cliff, you know, even to the point where Sonny
- 29:25was like, yeah, I think they pooped on their pants.
- 29:27And I was like I. You're like please no.
- 29:32But we did put it in there. It's you know you probably can't
- 29:34tell. But those are those are sort of
- 29:36the glamorous parts of costume design.
- 29:40I'm obsessed. It's so good.
- 29:43So. This was a very intimate series.
- 29:45I imagine there must have been a lot of collaboration between
- 29:48you, Allie and Steven especially.
- 29:50Yeah, it was. I mean, like, I felt like
- 29:53everyone wanted to come in and they wanted to sort of
- 29:57transform. And I was very lucky with them
- 30:00because, you know, obviously I said it before.
- 30:02Like Ally's kind of a dream to work with.
- 30:04She'll put on any. She's very interesting.
- 30:07Of the costume designer in the process, which is, which is like
- 30:12it's amazing when you get actors that come in that open and with
- 30:15Steven, he also was like in the process trying to.
- 30:20You know, was very open to trying everything on.
- 30:23I think it took Steven a little bit longer to find his
- 30:25character. I think mostly because like it's
- 30:27hard with subtle costumes, you know, because Amy's like kind of
- 30:31like fashiony and so it's almost at times it's easier to find
- 30:35those type of costumes than something as pared back as
- 30:38Danny. Meaning like he only he only
- 30:41probably had like 4 tshirts, you know, like he had like a club
- 30:44like literally the size of like. Here you.
- 30:49Go. But to get to that half a rack
- 30:50of things, you have to try on everything.
- 30:52Like a lot we had on, we had like 3-4 racks of clothes
- 30:57through three fittings that we had him try on just to see what
- 31:01kind of organically feels more like his character, you know?
- 31:06But a lot of times the more subtle work is, the more pared
- 31:09back stuff. Right, definitely.
- 31:12Well, Helen, I mean, everyone is obsessed with this show.
- 31:14Me being one of those people, it was so much fun.
- 31:17I loved it and the costumes are brilliant.
- 31:20I'm probably gonna go and find a Sprint tshirt after this.
- 31:23My final question to you, what did this project mean to you?
- 31:27I mean, it meant quite a lot to me.
- 31:29It's one of the more personal projects that I have done.
- 31:34I think, you know, since I started my career, I've dressed
- 31:38Asians as like day players on TV shows.
- 31:41And you can never give them a full story just because they're
- 31:44there to serve the main story. And so you usually have to dress
- 31:47them like, like as a teacher or as a mom, like they have to have
- 31:50a really quick read. It was something like this.
- 31:54As diverse as the type of Asians that they had on the show was
- 31:58sort of different economic backgrounds and different
- 32:00interests and different perspectives.
- 32:02I thought that was very fun, right?
- 32:05To sort of break down the the thought that we are like a
- 32:08monolith to show that there are barriers.
- 32:11Sort of like, and there are are different experiences in the
- 32:14Asian American community. And these characters sort of
- 32:17represent like what they go through and sort of like the
- 32:19mistrust and misunderstanding. So it was a real privilege to
- 32:24get to do that, you know. And I was very excited as soon
- 32:26as I read it because I was like, Oh my God, I'm going to actually
- 32:29get to do. This, you know, Yeah.
- 32:33So I can really fulfill something that I felt like I
- 32:36really had something to say. Especially because you're on the
- 32:39sidelines and you know you're not only involved in different
- 32:42projects, but you're watching different projects and you just
- 32:44feel like this need to like really want to tell a particular
- 32:49story. And this was my opportunity to
- 32:51do it, the costume. Designer Helen Huang.
- 32:53I am obsessed with the show and I'm so happy I finally got to
- 32:57meet you. Thank you so much for joining
- 32:58us. The Art of Costume Blogcast is
- 33:06hosted and produced by Elizabeth Joy Glass and Spencer Williams.
- 33:11Our audio engineering and editing is done by Dan White.
- 33:15Follow us on Instagram at The Art of Costume Pod or visit The
- 33:20Art of Costume blogcast.com for all Blogcast updates.
- 33:24If you want to support the show, go to theartofcostume.com/pod
- 33:30store for more costume reviews deep dives.
- 33:33And interviews Head over to The Art of Costume Com, A blog
- 33:38dedicated to highlighting the best in costume design.