Latest / Phil and H Travel - Is It Worth It? Top Travel Destinations Explored! / Why Koh Chang is Thailand's Most MISUNDERSTOOD Island
Transcript
- 0:00OK, so let's let's jump right in.
- 0:03Welcome to the deep dive. Great to be here.
- 0:05We are diving straight into this really fascinating stack of
- 0:08sources you sent over. And they take us, well, they
- 0:11take us far away from the usual tourist trail in southern
- 0:14Thailand. Yeah.
- 0:14Far. Away we're landing on the shores
- 0:16of Kochang. It's magnificent.
- 0:18It's mountainous and I think, as we'll find out, it's often
- 0:22wonderfully misunderstood. It really is, and I think this
- 0:26is such an important deep dive to do because Ko Chang, which
- 0:29people call Elephant Island, it holds this this really unique
- 0:34spot in the pecking order of Thai islands.
- 0:37How so? Well, when most people think
- 0:39Thai Island escape, their brain immediately goes to the big
- 0:42names, you know? Ukat Kosami.
- 0:44Phukat, Sami, maybe Kofi Phi with those famous limestone
- 0:47cliffs? And what do they all have in
- 0:49common? International airports easy
- 0:51access. Exactly.
- 0:52They have the airports, the five star resorts, the the heavily
- 0:56manicured, slick infrastructure. And what's so interesting is how
- 0:59the source material sets up Ko Tang as the complete opposite of
- 1:03that. It's positioned as the
- 1:04deliberate alternative. It is.
- 1:06It's the rugged, less polished cousin in the family, right?
- 1:09But it has the same core DNA. It offers that same stunning
- 1:13tropical beauty. You know, the lush jungles, the
- 1:15beautiful beaches, but it almost feels like it's put up a barrier
- 1:19a. Logistics filter.
- 1:21That's a great way to put it. It has this built in filter that
- 1:24automatically weeds out the casual low effort visitor.
- 1:27It forces you to commit. And that word commitment, I
- 1:31think that's the key. It seems to define this entire
- 1:33deep dive, doesn't it? It absolutely does.
- 1:35The sources we have, they just meticulously breakdown every
- 1:39single part of this place. We're talking about the
- 1:40challenging journey just to get there.
- 1:43The the very distinct personalities of its four main
- 1:46beach areas. The food, which sounds
- 1:49unbelievable. Oh, the food is a whole chapter
- 1:51in itself and the essential activities.
- 1:54So the central mission for us, and this comes straight from
- 1:57your material, is to figure this out for the modern traveler, you
- 2:00know, budget to mid range. The person who wants an
- 2:02adventure but still wants a decent bed.
- 2:04Exactly so for them, given that Kochang is so isolated, so
- 2:09demanding to get to, and it just lacks that slick, high speed
- 2:12feel of its competitors, is it actually worth all?
- 2:15That effort, that is the perfect mission statement.
- 2:17So OK, we have a road map, we're going to detail the journey,
- 2:21that commitment. We're talking hours, logistics,
- 2:23the whole thing. Then we'll decode the four main
- 2:25beach vibes, which is critical. Where you stay really shapes
- 2:29your trip. After that we explore the
- 2:31island's wild side, the jungle, the sea and of course that world
- 2:35class food. And finally, we deliver the
- 2:37verdict. We're going to answer that
- 2:38question. Does this Emerald escape deserve
- 2:41a spot on your itinerary? All right, let the adventure
- 2:44begin. Let's start with the hard part,
- 2:47the journey. Yeah, let's get into the nitty
- 2:49gritty of it. OK, phase one, committing to the
- 2:51journey. You called it a travel filter,
- 2:53and I think that's the perfect term.
- 2:55This is the first and maybe the biggest thing that sets KO Chang
- 2:58apart. You have to earn your spot on
- 3:00the beach. You absolutely do.
- 3:02And the first fact, the most crucial piece of information, is
- 3:05the one we already touched on. Unlike Phuket or Sam Lee, there
- 3:09is no commercial airport on coaching.
- 3:11So that's it. That one fact changes
- 3:14everything. It dictates the entire
- 3:15experience. You can't just fly in, grab a
- 3:18cab and be poolside with a drink in 90 minutes.
- 3:21It's it's just not that kind of place.
- 3:24Instead you have to face what the source is called, the
- 3:27Bangkok to track corridor A5 to six hour haul on the road just
- 3:32to get from the capital to the coast.
- 3:33Yeah, just the land portion. So for a traveler trying to
- 3:36figure this out, what are the actual logistics you even start?
- 3:40The main hub, according to the material, is the Ekamai bus
- 3:43terminal in Bangkok, which is pretty convenient.
- 3:45It's right on the BTS Skytrain line.
- 3:47Right. But as soon as you get there,
- 3:48you're faced with your first big decision and it's an important
- 3:51one. Do you take the big bus or do
- 3:53you take the minivan? OK.
- 3:55Walk me through this because the source has painted a really
- 3:57vivid picture here. It sounds like a choice between
- 4:00like speed and sanity. That's a good way to put it.
- 4:03If you value your personal space, if you want comfort and
- 4:06frankly a feeling of safety, the big government bus is your best
- 4:10bet, especially the VIP air con ones.
- 4:13And those are easy to book. Super easy, you just go to the
- 4:16ticket counters on the first floor of the terminal.
- 4:18The price is what around 450 to 550 baht for the VIP service, so
- 4:25about 12 to 15 U.S. dollars. For a 6 hour trip, that's really
- 4:28not bad. It's great value and for that
- 4:31you get a dedicated seat with actual legroom.
- 4:34They usually give you a little snack box and a bottle of water.
- 4:37And crucially, the driving is well, it's sane.
- 4:41They stick to a slower, steadier pace.
- 4:44They stop once or twice at a proper rest stop.
- 4:46It's a relaxed 6 hour journey. OK, so that's option A, the
- 4:50sensible choice. Then there's Option B, the
- 4:52minivan, which promises to be faster but seems to deliver a
- 4:56very different kind of thrill. A thrill is one word for it.
- 4:59Look, the minivan is faster. It can sometimes shave a whole
- 5:01hour off the trip, which is tempting.
- 5:03But the experience the. Experience, as one source put
- 5:05it, is like the driver is auditioning for a Fast and
- 5:08Furious movie. Fast.
- 5:09That's not a good sign. No.
- 5:11And it's not just about the speed, it's about the whole
- 5:13package. They often cram people and
- 5:15they'll strap enormous amounts of luggage to the roof with like
- 5:18a single bungee cord. And the driving style is just,
- 5:22it's aggressive. It can be really unsettling to
- 5:24be in that environment for four or five hours straight.
- 5:27So for you, our listener who's looking for that comprehensive
- 5:30knowledge, the take away is pretty clear.
- 5:32The minivan is a high risk, high reward situation.
- 5:36It's faster, yeah, but it's less comfortable.
- 5:39And the sources are very clear that the safety standards, the
- 5:42insurance, it's all a bit more questionable than the official
- 5:45bus lines. Exactly.
- 5:46I mean if you're traveling with a big suitcase or you have your
- 5:49family with you, saving that one hour is just stuffed.
- 5:53It's not worth the trade off in comfort and Peace of Mind.
- 5:56So either way, 5 or 6 hours, that journey time alone proves
- 6:00the point. This destination demands a huge
- 6:03chunk of your day. It filters out anyone looking
- 6:06for a quick weekend hop. It immediately separates the
- 6:08casual tourist from the determined adventure.
- 6:11OK, so we survived the road we make it to trapped.
- 6:14Now comes the second part of the journey, the nautical
- 6:16transition. And this part at least sounds
- 6:19like a bit of a reward for our patients.
- 6:21It's the scenic payoff, absolutely.
- 6:23You get to 1 of the Piers on the coast, usually out of Tamasha is
- 6:26the main one and you board a ferry and these, these aren't
- 6:29little long tail boats, these are big stable car ferries,
- 6:33right? They're built to handle trucks
- 6:34and buses and hundreds of people.
- 6:37So they're very steady. The ride itself is pretty quick,
- 6:40maybe 30 to 45 minutes. But the sources all emphasize
- 6:44the visual experience of this part of the trip.
- 6:47This is when the island really starts to reveal itself.
- 6:49This is the moment you realize what you've been traveling for,
- 6:52yes? That's a moment of realization.
- 6:54You see this huge, dark green mountainous silhouette of
- 6:59Kochang just getting closer and closer on the horizon, and you
- 7:02get this profound sense of scale.
- 7:05It's not just a little sandbar. Not at all.
- 7:07You realize that this isn't some tiny, flat little island.
- 7:11This is a massive landmass with a properly wild, undeveloped
- 7:16interior. It feels like you're approaching
- 7:18a real jungle outpost. That sense of arrival is so key
- 7:21to the story. But as the sources gleefully
- 7:25point out, even when you step off that ferry, you're not done.
- 7:29The final, and maybe most memorable part of the journey is
- 7:32still ahead. This is where you meet the song
- 7:34Thos. The iconic white pickup trucks.
- 7:37With the two benches in the back they are the islands de facto
- 7:41taxi service and they are just lined up bumper to bumper
- 7:45waiting at the pier as soon as you get off.
- 7:46The system is simple, right? You just tell the driver which
- 7:49boots, you're going to haggle a price a little bit and you're
- 7:51off. Pretty much.
- 7:53But getting from that pier on the North End of the island down
- 7:56to the main tourist beaches on the West Coast, that involves a
- 7:59road that one source so perfectly described as a roller
- 8:03coaster designed by a sadist. I love that description because
- 8:06it feels so true. This is not some smooth 4 lane
- 8:09coastal highway. No, not even close.
- 8:12The road is it's defined by constant sharp, winding turns
- 8:17and these unbelievably steep hills.
- 8:19I mean hills you would never see on the mainland.
- 8:22We're talking inclines that feel like they're at a 45° angle.
- 8:26The engine is just grinding in first gear to get up them.
- 8:29I remember reading that detail about just having to hold on for
- 8:32dear life gripping the metal rails in the back of the truck.
- 8:35You really do. And that wild kind of untamed
- 8:38infrastructure is so integral to the Ko Chang experience.
- 8:42It's part of its character. It's what keeps it feeling a
- 8:44little bit less developed. It means that even going a few
- 8:47kilometers between beaches isn't just a quick taxi ride, it's
- 8:50another mini adventure in itself.
- 8:53And that geographical challenge serves a real purpose, doesn't
- 8:56it? It limits the big tour buses, it
- 8:58makes large scale construction more difficult, and it
- 9:01reinforces that the whole journey, which by the time
- 9:04you're done is taken 7 or 8 hours of your day.
- 9:06It really demanded something from.
- 9:07You it did. It successfully weeds out anyone
- 9:10just looking for ultimate convenience, and it rewards the
- 9:13person who is willing to work for it.
- 9:14OK, so we've made the commitment, we survived the
- 9:17journey and we are finally on the island.
- 9:20Which brings us to Phase 2, choosing your vibe.
- 9:23And this is so important because as the sources make clear, where
- 9:27you stay on this island is going to completely define your trip.
- 9:31It's a huge island and the personality of each little zone
- 9:34is surprisingly different, especially considering how tough
- 9:36the roads are that connect them. So we really need to break down
- 9:40the four main areas starting up north, closest to where the
- 9:43ferry drops you off. OK so first up the most
- 9:45accessible spot, white sand beach or hot Sai cow.
- 9:49The sources called this Ko Chang on easy mode.
- 9:53That is the perfect way to describe it.
- 9:54It's the most commercial, the most developed part of the
- 9:57island. This is where you'll find the
- 9:59biggest resorts, all the essential services like banks
- 10:01and proper pharmacies, and of course a 711 on every corner.
- 10:07So if you're a family with young kids, or maybe it's your first
- 10:09time in Thailand and you're a bit nervous, this is the logical
- 10:12place to start. It is if you want convenience,
- 10:16if you want familiar amenities and you don't want a long somtor
- 10:20riot After that long journey, White Sand Beach is your landing
- 10:23spot. But there's a trade off, isn't
- 10:25there? The sources were pretty clear on
- 10:27this. While the beach itself is lovely
- 10:29and wide, you can feel crowded and a lot of travelers said it
- 10:33it lacks the soul of the island. I think that's fair.
- 10:37The soul is maybe a bit diminished because the
- 10:40development here is geared towards package deals.
- 10:43The accommodation is all over the place, from a simple 800
- 10:46byte bungalow to big resort rooms that are 345000 byte a
- 10:51night. It's serving the mass market.
- 10:53It is, so if you're picturing yourself in a quiet little
- 10:56independent beach shack, you're probably not going to find it
- 10:59here. The traffic is also the heaviest
- 11:01on the island in this section, which adds to that feeling of
- 11:04commercial density. OK, so White Sand is the busy,
- 11:07convenient hub. If that's not what we're looking
- 11:09for, where do we find the island sweet spot?
- 11:12The place. For that you have to head a
- 11:14little further South Down the to the next two areas, Klong Prow
- 11:18and Kaibay. These are consistently presented
- 11:21in the source material as the perfect middle ground.
- 11:24How does the feeling change when you leave white sand and head
- 11:27South? It's almost immediate, the whole
- 11:29pace just slows down, it gets much more chilled out.
- 11:32The resorts in Klong Prow are often beautiful mid range places
- 11:36and importantly a lot of them are right on the beach.
- 11:39You can walk straight from your room onto the sand without
- 11:41having to cross a Rd. That's a huge plus.
- 11:44It is Klong Prow is known for having this really long, quiet,
- 11:48sweeping beach. It's fantastic for couples or
- 11:51anyone just looking for genuine peace and quiet.
- 11:54Now what about Cai Bay? The sources seem to really
- 11:56single that one out. Yeah, Cai Bay is arguably the
- 11:59most popular choice for the kind of traveler we're talking about.
- 12:02It has a bit more life than Klong Prow, but it's still very
- 12:05relaxed. Its main advantage is that it
- 12:07has a genuinely walkable Main St.
- 12:09Which is a rare thing on this island.
- 12:12Very rare and that street is lined with fantastic mid range
- 12:16restaurants, great Thai food but also good quality international
- 12:20options and cool laid back little bars and massage shops.
- 12:24That sounds like the grown up choice.
- 12:25You get the relaxation and the beauty, but you can also just
- 12:27step out your door and go for a great meal or a drink without
- 12:30needing to jump into Song Sue every single time.
- 12:32That's it exactly. And the accommodation in Caibe
- 12:34is in that sweet spot, you know, maybe 40 to 80 U.S. dollars for
- 12:37a really nice bungalow. It's also where you can easily
- 12:40get to the Kai Bay viewpoint for those classic postcard photos of
- 12:44the coast. It just, it strikes the perfect
- 12:47balance. It's developed enough to be
- 12:48comfortable, but it still feels like a relaxed tropical island.
- 12:52OK, I think I've got my spot picked out already, but let's
- 12:55keep going. We head further South, over
- 12:57another one of those terrifying hills, and we land in Lonely
- 13:00Beach. And the name, as the sources
- 13:02point out, is just a fantastic piece of irony.
- 13:06It is a complete relic from the past.
- 13:08The sources are so clear on this today.
- 13:10Lonely Beach is absolutely anything but lonely.
- 13:13So what is it now? What defines the lonely beach
- 13:16experience in the 21st century? It is the island's undisputed
- 13:20concentrated party hub. The entire area is just this
- 13:23dense cluster of cheap hostels, budget bungalows.
- 13:27We're talking under 500 bar to night tattoo parlors and most
- 13:32importantly, bars that blast music deep into the night.
- 13:36So this is where you go for the bucket.
- 13:37This is where you go for the bucket of cheap Thai whiskey and
- 13:40soda. It is built for the 22 year old
- 13:43backpacker on a shoestring budget.
- 13:45And the sources had a specific warning here, didn't they, that
- 13:48travelers over 30 might feel ancient?
- 13:51That's a very fair warning. It's an immersion into a very
- 13:54specific youth driven party culture.
- 13:57And here's a really important detail.
- 13:59The actual beach at Lonely Beach isn't great.
- 14:01It's quite small and rocky. The real appeal is the scene,
- 14:05the dense, social, loud scene that's packed in behind the
- 14:08beach. So if your goal is a pristine
- 14:10stretch of sand and a quiet night's sleep, this is the place
- 14:13to avoid at all costs. You must skip it entirely.
- 14:15It's a very specific vibe for a very specific traveler.
- 14:18But this raises a question, though.
- 14:20If Lonely Beach is now this kind of relentless party zone,
- 14:24doesn't that sort of undermine the island's whole identity as
- 14:28the unpolished alternative? Isn't this just swapping one
- 14:32kind of mass tourism for another?
- 14:34That's a really sharp point, and I think the difference is 1 of
- 14:37scale and containment. While Lonely Beach is dense and
- 14:41loud, it's still geographically contained in one small pocket of
- 14:45the island. It hasn't sprawled out and
- 14:47consumed the whole coast in the way that, say, Patong has in
- 14:50Phuket. So it's a dedicated zone.
- 14:51It's a dedicated zone, but you're right, it absolutely
- 14:54represents the challenge that any developing island faces.
- 14:57How do you manage these pockets of high volume, youth focused
- 15:01tourism that are built on being cheap and loud without letting
- 15:04it spoil the quiet, sustainable character of the rest of the
- 15:07place? A tough balancing act.
- 15:08OK, finally left date that last song Ha Ride all the way to the
- 15:11southern tip to Bang Bao. This place sounds completely
- 15:15different structurally and functionally.
- 15:17It's entirely unique. Bang Bao is not a beach
- 15:20destination in the traditional sense at all.
- 15:22It's a working fishing village that is literally built out on a
- 15:25long concrete pier that extends way out over the water.
- 15:30So you're not staying in a bungalow on the sand, you're in
- 15:32a guest house built on stilts right over the sea.
- 15:35Exactly, which is a really cool experience.
- 15:38You can hear the water lapping right under your floorboards.
- 15:40You get these incredible unobstructed views out towards
- 15:43the marine park. It feels very nautical.
- 15:45And it has a specific purpose, right?
- 15:47It's not just a place to stay. Right.
- 15:48It's main function now is as the primary departure point for all
- 15:52of the islands major diving and snorkeling trips.
- 15:56Almost all the big tour boats leave from this pier.
- 15:59I imagine that gives it a different energy from the other
- 16:02more leisure focused beaches. It does.
- 16:04It feels more functional. It's busy in the morning with
- 16:06boats getting ready and it can be much quieter in the evenings
- 16:10than Kai Bay. It also feels the most remote.
- 16:14A song Tall ride from Bang Bao back up to the middle of the
- 16:17island is a long haul, especially late at night.
- 16:20So it's perfect if your main goal is diving or snorkeling and
- 16:24you want that unique stay, but maybe not if you want to be able
- 16:26to easily explore other parts of the island everyday.
- 16:28Precisely your base camp choice is everything.
- 16:30That is so clear. OK to recap Phase 2, White sand
- 16:35for maximum convenience and families.
- 16:37Clone Prow and Kai Bay for that perfect grown up balance of
- 16:40relaxation and amenities. Lonely Beach If you are 22 and
- 16:44want a party and Bang Bao for a unique over water stay focused
- 16:48on boat trips. And now that we've picked our
- 16:50vase, it's time for phase three. Flavor forest and sea.
- 16:54Because once you've settled in, you have to eat and the food on.
- 16:57Kochang is a main character in this story.
- 16:59The sources are, and I'm not exaggerating, almost evangelical
- 17:02about the food here, particularly the seafood they
- 17:05basically crown. Kochang is seafood central.
- 17:07And it's a well deserved crown. The quality, the freshness and
- 17:10the accessibility of the seafood is I think, a huge reason to
- 17:13make the journey. The number one mandatory
- 17:15experience is the evening seafood BBQ.
- 17:18You see these everywhere, right? These huge displays set up on
- 17:21the street, especially in Kai Bay or down at the Bangbo Pier.
- 17:24They're spectacular. At dusk, they wheel out these
- 17:27huge displays packed with ice, and they're just loaded with the
- 17:32day's catch. You'll see a whole Barracuda,
- 17:35massive tiger prawns the size of your hand, squid, blue crab
- 17:39trays of muscles. It's a feast for the eyes before
- 17:42you even order. And the best part is the
- 17:44process. It's not just pointing at a menu
- 17:47item. No.
- 17:48It's interactive, it's transparent.
- 17:50You walk right up to the display and you physically point at the
- 17:53exact fish or the specific prawns you want to eat.
- 17:56So you choose your victim and then, and this is so key to Thai
- 17:59cooking, you choose how you want it cooked.
- 18:02What were the best methods the sources recommended?
- 18:05The classics are the best for a whole fish like a snapper or a
- 18:08Barracuda getting its steam with a ton of lime, chili and garlic.
- 18:11What they call plan non manao is just out of this.
- 18:14Oh, that sounds amazing. Or if you have those big
- 18:17beautiful prawns or some squid, you can just get it grilled
- 18:19simply with salt to let the freshness shine through.
- 18:22Or of course, you can have them toss it all into a rich,
- 18:24fragrant red Curry. The sources were unanimous on
- 18:28this. Seafood is phenomenal.
- 18:29It's world class. OK, but world class usually
- 18:32comes with a world class price tag.
- 18:35Is this experience accessible for a budget to mid range
- 18:38traveler? This is where coaching just
- 18:40destroys the competition. It is incredibly affordable.
- 18:44You can often get a whole grilled fish big enough to feed
- 18:47two people for somewhere between 350 and 500 bet.
- 18:51Which is what, 10 to 14 U.S. dollars?
- 18:54Now try to get that same quality hole snapper on a popular beach
- 18:58in Phuket. You could easily be paying 12115
- 19:01hundred. Bet.
- 19:02The value proposition on coaching is just staggering.
- 19:05And this isn't limited to just the big BBQ spots, right?
- 19:08What about the general street food scene?
- 19:10Oh, the street food imperative is non negotiable.
- 19:12It is everywhere, it's cheap, and the quality is ridiculously
- 19:16high. The key is to look for the
- 19:18little stalls that specialize in just one or two things.
- 19:20The sources gave some really specific examples.
- 19:22Let's start with some Tam. Yes, the spicy green papaya
- 19:26salad and the sources stress. You have to find a stall where
- 19:29you can see them pounding the ingredients fresh for you right
- 19:32there in a big clay mortar and pestle.
- 19:34There's a great little anecdote about one near Klong Prow.
- 19:37There was. The writer described it as a
- 19:39salad that genuinely made you sweat, and that's the sign of a
- 19:42good one. It's that perfect explosive
- 19:45balance of spicy, sour, salty and sweet that just defines
- 19:49great Thai food. You eat that with a little bag
- 19:52of sticky rice cow now and it's a perfect $2.00 meal.
- 19:55And moving away from the chili heat, there are the smoky
- 19:58grilled classics. For sure, you have to look for
- 20:00Guy Yang. That's marinated grilled
- 20:03chicken. You'll see it cooking slowly
- 20:05over charcoal on the side of the road, which gives it this
- 20:07incredible smoky flavor you can't get any other way.
- 20:10And of course, the theater of a good Pad Thai.
- 20:12Oh yeah, watching them cook it in a flaming hot work right on
- 20:16the street, that high heat gives it that crucial OK, the smoky
- 20:20breath of the work. And you can get a massive
- 20:22delicious plate of it for 50 or 60 baht.
- 20:25So the message is clear, amazing flavor, doesn't have to cost a
- 20:28lot here, and there was a really good pro tip in the sources for
- 20:31how to spot a good place to eat. Right.
- 20:33It's a simple rule. If you walk up to a restaurant
- 20:36and the menu is like 10 laminated pages long and it has
- 20:40pizza and pasta and burgers and sandwiches right next to the
- 20:44Thai food, just walk away. The Jack of all trades, master
- 20:47of none. Exactly.
- 20:48They're trying to please everyone and they end up making
- 20:51nothing. Well, you want to find the spot
- 20:53with the short menu. Maybe only a few plastic chairs.
- 20:56That's usually the sign that they do one thing, and they do
- 20:58it exceptionally well. OK, my mouth is watering.
- 21:01Let's move from flavor to forest.
- 21:03A huge part of Kochang identity is that 70% of the island is
- 21:08protected National Park. This isn't just a ring of
- 21:11beaches, it has a wild jungle heart.
- 21:14And that protection is the only reason the island hasn't been
- 21:16completely covered in concrete. It preserves that wild core and
- 21:20provides all these amazing things to do away from the
- 21:22water. The 1st and probably the most
- 21:24popular jungle activity is chasing waterfalls and the most
- 21:27famous one is Klong Plu Waterfall.
- 21:30Yeah, Klong Plu is near Klong Prow, so it's really easy to get
- 21:33to from the main West Coast beaches.
- 21:35You have to pay an entrance fee, about 200 baht because it's
- 21:38inside the National Park. And then it's a bit of a hike.
- 21:41It's a short, pretty easy walk on a well marked path through
- 21:45the jungle, and at the end you're rewarded with this big,
- 21:48beautiful, deep swimming hole at the base of the waterfall.
- 21:52A natural swimming pool sounds like the perfect way to cool
- 21:54off, but the sources had a pretty big warning attached to
- 21:57it. A very important caveat, it's
- 22:00popularity because it's the easiest 1 to get to.
- 22:03Quan Clio gets incredibly busy, especially from midmorning
- 22:06onwards, so the essential advice is you have to go early.
- 22:10Like right when it opens. Be there when the park opens,
- 22:12that way you can enjoy it in relative peace and quiet before
- 22:15the tour groups and the songthos full of people start to arrive.
- 22:19And for someone who really wants to get off the beaten path, was
- 22:22there a quieter alternative mentioned?
- 22:24There was. The sources pointed to Than
- 22:27Mayhem Waterfall, which is over on the much less developed East
- 22:31Coast of the island. It takes more effort to get
- 22:34there, a longer song thoi ride for sure, but your reward is a
- 22:39much greater chance of having the place all to yourself.
- 22:42So you're trading convenience for solitude?
- 22:44A classic coaching trade off. And besides hiking to
- 22:48waterfalls, the other great way to experience the island's
- 22:51nature is by kayaking. Yeah, kayaking is super
- 22:53accessible and really peaceful. The best place to do it
- 22:57according to the sources is from Klong Prow Beach.
- 22:59You can rent a kayak for cheap, maybe 100 and 5200 baht an hour.
- 23:04And you're not just paddling in the ocean.
- 23:06No, and that's the cool part. You can paddle up the river
- 23:08estuary, the clong, and go deep into these dense mangrove
- 23:11forests. What's that experience like?
- 23:13It's all about the soundscape. As soon as you get into the
- 23:15mangroves, the sound of the road and the beach just disappears.
- 23:19It's replaced by this total silence, the rustling of the
- 23:22leaves and the sounds of birds and insects.
- 23:24It's a really cool close up look at a different side of the
- 23:28island's ecology. Now let's head out to sea,
- 23:31because as beautiful as the island is, the real underwater
- 23:35jewel is actually a little bit South in the Korang National
- 23:39Marine Park. You have to get out on a boat,
- 23:41it's a mandatory part of any trip to poaching and the day
- 23:44trips to Korang are the absolute highlight of the marine park.
- 23:48How do those tricks usually? Work.
- 23:49The logistics are really well oiled.
- 23:51Most boats leave from the Bangbo pier in the morning around 9:00.
- 23:55You can choose between a bigger, slower, more stable wooden boat
- 23:59or a faster, bumpier speedboat. And what's the value like?
- 24:02Is it an expensive day out? It's incredible value.
- 24:05A full day trip, which usually runs until about 4:00 in the
- 24:08afternoon, will cost you somewhere between 800 and 1200
- 24:11baht, so 2030 five U.S. dollars. And that price almost always
- 24:15includes your transport from your hotel, the boat trip
- 24:18itself, and all your snorkel gear.
- 24:20And it's about a 45 minute ride out to the marine park.
- 24:22About that and the reward for that boat ride is the water.
- 24:25The clarity is just exceptional. One source beautifully described
- 24:29it as swimming in an aquarium. And you see a lot of life.
- 24:33A ton. Assuming you find a healthy
- 24:35patch of coral, you'll see these brilliant blue and green
- 24:39parrotfish angelfish, massive schools of shimmering little
- 24:43silverfish. It really is a fantastic
- 24:46snorkeling experience. I read that lunch is usually
- 24:49included on the boat. Is it just, you know, a sad
- 24:51sandwich? No, never.
- 24:52It's another example of the island's high Food Standards.
- 24:55It's usually a simple but delicious full on Thai lunch
- 24:59served right there on the boat. You know, a big thing of rice, a
- 25:03couple different curries, some fresh fruit.
- 25:05It's always really good. Just quickly for the divers out
- 25:07there, it's a good. A fantastic spot specifically
- 25:10for the HTMS Chang shipwreck. It's a massive former U.S.
- 25:14Navy landing ship that was sunk on purpose to create an
- 25:17artificial reef, and it's one of the best wreck dives in
- 25:20Thailand. OK, before we wrap up the
- 25:22activities, we have to talk about the elephant in the room,
- 25:24so to speak. On an island nicknamed Elephant
- 25:27Island, there's a huge critical ethical consideration around
- 25:31animal tourism. This is a really firm, non
- 25:34negotiable point for any responsible traveler and the
- 25:37sources were very emphatic about this because of the name.
- 25:40The temptation to visit an elephant camp is high, but you
- 25:44have to be so careful. The sources were clear.
- 25:47Do not endorse or recommend any camps that offers elephant
- 25:50riding. Why is that line so firm?
- 25:54Because the practice of elephant riding and the training that
- 25:57leads up to it, is based on a process that is fundamentally
- 26:00harmful and cruel to the animals.
- 26:02It involves breaking their spirit when they are young and
- 26:05using physical coercion like bullhooks to control them
- 26:08throughout their lives. It's widely recognized as an
- 26:10unethical practice, and spending your money on it just fuels the
- 26:14cycle. So for the listener who loves
- 26:15elephants and wants to see them respectfully, how do they tell
- 26:18the difference between a real sanctuary and a tourist trap?
- 26:21We need to be practical here. Absolutely, because the word
- 26:23sanctuary is often just used for marketing.
- 26:25So the first step is to do your research.
- 26:27Look for a place that has accreditation from a recognized
- 26:30international animal welfare organization.
- 26:33And read the reviews. Read the most recent reviews and
- 26:36read them critically. Look for any mention of riding
- 26:39hooks, chains or elephants performing tricks.
- 26:42If you see photos of elephants painting pictures or playing
- 26:45football, that is a massive red flag.
- 26:47That is a tourist trap, not a sanctuary.
- 26:50So what is a good ethical interaction look like?
- 26:53A real sanctuary is all about rescue and the goal is to give
- 26:58the elephants a life that's as natural as possible.
- 27:01Any interaction should be on the elephants terms, not yours.
- 27:05You might observe them from a distance, maybe help prepare
- 27:07their food or take part in a supervised mud bath where the
- 27:11interaction is gentle and the elephants are choosing to
- 27:13participate. The key take away is if the
- 27:16animals are being asked to do anything for your entertainment,
- 27:19it's the wrong place. Exactly, and if you have any
- 27:22doubt at all, just skip it. Your tourist dollars are
- 27:24powerful and they should only support ethical treatment.
- 27:27That's a really clear and important guide.
- 27:29OK, let's move into our final phase, Phase 4, navigating the
- 27:33rough edges and the verdict. We know Ko Chang is rewarding,
- 27:37but what should a traveler actively avoid?
- 27:40What are the real downsides of this unpolished charm?
- 27:43Right, let's start with the essential skips.
- 27:45And the biggest, most serious warning is about transportation.
- 27:49Skip number one. Do not rent a scooter if you are
- 27:53an inexperienced writer. This goes right back to that
- 27:55roller coaster design by a sadist.
- 27:57It does. The sources are so adamant about
- 27:59this. The hills are dangerously steep,
- 28:02the corners are sharp, the road surface can be sketchy, and it
- 28:05often gets wet and slippery. Tourists have serious accidents
- 28:08here all the time. And I get the temptation.
- 28:10A scooter is cheap, maybe 250 bat a day and it offers freedom.
- 28:13But the risk is just not worth it.
- 28:15The alternative? The songthos are cheap and
- 28:17everywhere. A ride between main beaches
- 28:20might cost you 100 baht a couple of bucks.
- 28:22Why risk a massive injury and a huge medical bill for that tiny
- 28:26bit of convenience? Just leave the driving to the
- 28:28local experts who know those hills inside and out.
- 28:31A very strong piece of advice. What's skip #2?
- 28:34Skip number 2 is the resort bubble.
- 28:36This island is big. It's over 30 kilometers from top
- 28:39to bottom and it's way too easy to just get stuck on your one
- 28:43beach, especially if you're staying at one of the big
- 28:45resorts on white sand. You risk missing the whole point
- 28:48of being there. You do.
- 28:50You went through that whole epic journey to get to this diverse,
- 28:53interesting place. Don't let your entire vacation
- 28:56be confined to a single kilometer of sand.
- 28:59Pay the 100 baud for the song Thaw.
- 29:01Go explore the quiet waterfalls. Check out the fishing village
- 29:05vibe in Bang Bao. Try the seafood on a different
- 29:08beach. I agree with that, Yeah.
- 29:10And skip #3 is a smaller one, but a good one.
- 29:12The generic fire shows, they're at every beach bar in Thailand,
- 29:16and the sources say they're often just loud and obnoxious
- 29:19and they kind of break the peaceful atmosphere.
- 29:21Find a quieter bar. There are so many.
- 29:24Find a little spot on the sand where you can just have a beer
- 29:26and listen to the sound of the waves in the jungle.
- 29:29That is a much more authentic and rewarding experience.
- 29:31And finally, a strong repeat skip #4 is to avoid unethical
- 29:35elephant camps. It's a responsibility we have as
- 29:38travelers. It has to be the foundation of
- 29:40any visit. So this brings us to the big
- 29:43idea, the aha moment we have to define this unpolished vibe.
- 29:47Why is the island's ruggedness actually its greatest strength?
- 29:51The sources are really honest about this.
- 29:53Kochang is not perfect. The infrastructure is, as they
- 29:56say, a bit creaky. The roads have potholes, the
- 30:00power might go out for an hour, your Wi-Fi might be a bit slow
- 30:04in some places. That is the reality of being
- 30:06outside a perfectly manicured resort bubble like Samly.
- 30:10But that creakiness, that ruggedness, is exactly what's
- 30:13preserving the island's character.
- 30:15It is. It means the island has found
- 30:17this amazing balance. You can still get a great cup of
- 30:19coffee, you can have a world class meal, you can find a
- 30:22comfortable bed and good Wi-Fi. It has enough comfort, but it
- 30:24hasn't lost its wild jungle heart.
- 30:27It feels more like a real place. A much more real place.
- 30:29You see more local life, you see fewer international chains, you
- 30:32feel more of a community. And the trade off is the essence
- 30:36of why you go to coaching. It is for the traveler who is
- 30:39willing to sacrifice maybe 20% of their convenience.
- 30:42In exchange for 50% fewer people.
- 30:45And a way more adventurous, authentic and natural
- 30:48experience. You get 90% of the raw beauty of
- 30:51the more famous islands, but without the crowds and the crazy
- 30:55high prices. It's the adventurous reward, the
- 30:58effort is the price of admission, and the reward is
- 31:01that authenticity. Perfectly sad.
- 31:03All right, I think it's time. Let's bring this home with the
- 31:05final verdict, the official scoring.
- 31:07On a scale of 1 to 10, is coaching worth a long, demanding
- 31:11journey to get there? OK, I'll go first.
- 31:14For me, that journey is a real drawback.
- 31:16It's a full day of travel and that eats into your vacation
- 31:19time. And the roads on the island do
- 31:21present a genuine safety concern you need to be aware of.
- 31:25But the value for money is just off the charts.
- 31:28The quality of the food, the low cost of a really nice place to
- 31:31stay, and the sheer raw, protected beauty of the place.
- 31:36They are huge, undeniable positive.
- 31:38So weighing all of that, I'm giving Ko Chang a very solid 8
- 31:42out of 10. And eight is a very strong
- 31:44score. I think I'm going to go a little
- 31:45higher. For me, the things you listed as
- 31:48drawbacks, the difficult journey, the lack of an airport,
- 31:51the scary roads, I honestly see them as features.
- 31:55They're not bugs, they're the filter.
- 31:56They're the filter. They're the mechanisms that are
- 31:58preserving this place. They screen who comes and they
- 32:01protect the environment from overdevelopment.
- 32:03I love that it requires an adventurous spirit.
- 32:05The food is truly unforgettable, and I love that you can find
- 32:09total peace on one beach in a huge party just one hill over.
- 32:13It has that contrast for me. Kochang is a nine out of 10.
- 32:16Wow. OK, so that brings our combined
- 32:19official verdict to an 8.5 out of 10.
- 32:22Kochang is officially, resoundingly worth it.
- 32:25And that is our deep dive on Thailand's Emerald Island.
- 32:28We've navigated the sketchy roads, we've decoded the beach
- 32:31vibes, we've tasted the incredible food, all to help you
- 32:34figure out if this rugged, unpolished gem is the right fit
- 32:37for your travel style. And it's so important to repeat
- 32:40that one observation from the source material.
- 32:42The lack of an air court is a feature, not a bug, because it
- 32:46keeps the masses away. The island self regulates its
- 32:49tourism just by being inconvenient.
- 32:51And that leads us to our final provocative thought for you to
- 32:53chew on. As Southeast Asian develops at
- 32:56lightning speed, as more and more airports and highways are
- 32:59built, these kinds of truly unpolished destinations, places
- 33:04that deliberately make you work to get there, they're becoming
- 33:08an endangered species. They really are.
- 33:10So we have to ask, is that deliberate inconvenience, that
- 33:14willingness to trade your time for a more authentic experience?
- 33:17Is that the true measure of a destination's worth?
- 33:20And is it ultimately the only thing that can guarantee its
- 33:24long term preservation? It's a huge question.
- 33:26In an age where we expect everything instantly, Do you
- 33:29want the convenience or do you want the commitment?
- 33:31Something to think about until our next deep dive.
- 33:33We're packing our bags and heading for the mountains.
- 33:35We'll be exploring the culture and the misty peaks of Chiang
- 33:38Mai. Travel safe everyone, eat well.
- 33:41Bye for now.