Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / The Bikeriders with Costume Designer, Erin Benach
Transcript
- 0:12Oh gosh, at some point I think we put Jeff's son to work and he
- 0:15made some too. I mean everybody, every we, we
- 0:18like, we made like a, an APB announcement.
- 0:20Aaron was a Johnny played by Tom Hardy character.
- 0:23Just telling people what to do and bring your crafting
- 0:26supplies. Yes, that's right.
- 0:31And then I told everybody to burn it down.
- 0:43Hello, welcome to the Art Costume Podcast.
- 0:45I'm Elizabeth Joy Glass. And I'm Spencer Williams.
- 0:48Elizabeth, so good to see you. So.
- 0:51Good to see you. It's been a minute.
- 0:53It's. Been a minute.
- 0:54It's been a it's been an interesting hot girl summer that
- 0:57just came to an end. Yeah, I'm excited to see you and
- 1:00I'm actually going to be seeing you very, very soon.
- 1:03Can we talk about this big announcement we're sitting on?
- 1:07Oh my gosh, everyone, I'm so excited.
- 1:10Spencer and I are going to be at La Comic Con on October 5th with
- 1:18a very exciting panel. Spencer.
- 1:22I'm so excited. What is our panel?
- 1:25OK, so our panel is called Dressing the Multiverse Behind
- 1:30the Costumes of Loki. We are getting into all the
- 1:33costumes of Loki from season 1 and 2 and we will be having some
- 1:38special guests of us, some members of the costume design
- 1:41team for Loki on Disney Plus. And I'm just so excited.
- 1:46I'm excited to be gaining to our favorite God of Mischief,
- 1:50talking about Tom Hiddleston, the TVA, the World's Fair.
- 1:55But most of all, I'm excited to be doing it with you in person.
- 1:59I. Know I can finally come out for
- 2:01one of these things. I'm so excited.
- 2:04We just kind of like pitched this idea to Comic Con and they
- 2:08loved it. And then I kind of brought it up
- 2:10to Elizabeth and she was like, yeah, I'll be be there.
- 2:13Yeah, I was. Like yes I will make this work.
- 2:18So if you want to see Elizabeth and I for our first in person,
- 2:22kind of like a podcast but not recorded conversation, yes.
- 2:26LA Comic Con Downtown Los Angeles at the Convention Center
- 2:30October 5th. I want to say it's at like 3:00
- 2:32PM, but you should check the app for your local listings, yes.
- 2:37Absolutely. You never know what might happen
- 2:40with those time slots. Yeah, we've already had lots of
- 2:43changes, but we're very excited. I hope all of our LA Costumers
- 2:46will come out and see us, take some photos.
- 2:50It'll be a good time. I'm very excited and maybe you
- 2:53and I will walk around the floor a little bit and hang out.
- 2:56You know it, I want to go down to Artist Alley, at least for a
- 2:59minute. Check it out.
- 3:01You know, Elizabeth's bringing a big bag to fill it up with
- 3:06everything. I wish I could got an economy
- 3:10ticket so OK. Well.
- 3:13Your night, it's like, how dare you bring anything?
- 3:15So that means artist Ally, she's looking for the one, the one to
- 3:19make her day. And you will have something.
- 3:22I'll be going home with Elizabeth.
- 3:24Yeah, the one that says you must put me on your wall.
- 3:28Yeah. Well, Elizabeth, I'm excited for
- 3:34today's film. I actually saw this movie a long
- 3:37time ago. It is called The Bike Riders.
- 3:42It actually was getting ready to premiere during the strikes, but
- 3:45then it got pushed back almost the entire year so.
- 3:48Yeah. For a lot of you, you might have
- 3:51just seen it, but for me, we're going on a year, year and a half
- 3:55since I saw this movie. The first time I've seen it
- 3:58since but. I remember you mentioning this
- 4:00and I was like, OK, completely forgot about it.
- 4:07Just there was there was so much going on that summer.
- 4:09It was. It was a busy summer.
- 4:12It was more than busy. I felt like Chicken Little
- 4:16telling everyone to see this movie that no one can see
- 4:18because it's not in theaters. But I'm like, I'm telling you,
- 4:21once it comes out, it's great. And it is Austin Butler is in
- 4:25it. Obviously I I love him, but
- 4:29Jodie Comer and Tom Hardy, it's just such a great crew.
- 4:33This like movie is right up my alley.
- 4:35I used to be such a Sons of Anarchy.
- 4:41That's actually kind of shocking.
- 4:43Like. I loved that show.
- 4:46I I kind of like with school and stuff, I kind of like lost track
- 4:50of it. And then I heard how it ended
- 4:52and I was like, I don't like that.
- 4:53So I'm just going to keep the ending I created for myself in
- 4:56my mind till I can like emotionally come to terms with
- 5:00it and like finish out the series.
- 5:03But yeah, I loved that show. Well, this, this kind of adds up
- 5:08because when people think of you and I, they definitely think of
- 5:10motorcycle clubs. Oh yeah.
- 5:12Yeah. Oh yeah.
- 5:16I actually did do a Daryl Dixon cosplay.
- 5:21Really. Yeah.
- 5:22I still have it. I don't know it I it was like a
- 5:26weird con. I was like by myself that day.
- 5:28So I don't think I have pictures, but like I got like a
- 5:31Jean jacket and made it into his motorcycle jacket.
- 5:34That was that was a fun. One the wings on the back.
- 5:37Yes. I love that.
- 5:39Well, actually, Norman Reedus is in this film.
- 5:42He. He plays what?
- 5:44Yeah, he plays, You know, he's in a motorcycle club and he
- 5:48looks like Daryl Dixon. But if he survived a zombie
- 5:51apocalypse in, like, Venice Beach and he didn't have any
- 5:54friends, that's what he looks like in this film.
- 5:58OK. I love that, but before we say
- 6:01too much, we should dive into it because we have a special guest
- 6:04that's waiting so. Excited for this?
- 6:07I'll start us off with a summary.
- 6:09The Bike Riders is a film based on Danny Lyons 1968 photo book
- 6:14of the same name which documented the Chicago Outlaws
- 6:17Motorcycle Club. After a chance encounter,
- 6:20headstrong Kathy's drawn to Benny, member of Midwestern
- 6:24motorcycle club the Vandals. As the club transforms into a
- 6:28dangerous underworld of violence, Benny must choose
- 6:31between Kathy and his loyalty to the club, and that is bike
- 6:36riders. And I just got to say I've seen
- 6:40Dandelion's book. It is really cool.
- 6:42It's this great book just full of photos.
- 6:45You just really get to see, you know, the culture that is
- 6:48brought to life in this film. You know, it's the story is
- 6:52fictional, but the lifestyle and actually I believe one of the
- 6:56characters is even based on, you know, a real time and a real
- 7:02motorcycle club. So it's actually quite
- 7:04fascinating. Interesting.
- 7:08I cannot wait to dive into this Spencer.
- 7:12Going behind the costumes, we have director Jeff Nichols and
- 7:17costume designer Erin Bennick, who you will know her work from
- 7:22Blue Valentine, Devil Drive, The Neon Demon, A Star Is Born,
- 7:31Birds of Prey, a personal costume favorite of mine, and
- 7:38Spirited. I didn't know Birds of Prey is a
- 7:41favorite of yours. I've still yet to see it.
- 7:44I love that movie. It's probably one of the top
- 7:47three like DC movies of like the new the newer ones.
- 7:52Well, Elizabeth, to get into the bike riders, we actually have
- 7:55here costume designer Aaron Bennick.
- 7:59I got to meet her and talk about this film.
- 8:02Of course, you know, we had met the first time when we saw the
- 8:06film originally like a year and a half ago.
- 8:08So I was excited to finally reunite with her all this time
- 8:11later and actually talk about the movie.
- 8:14We get into everything from all the jackets, all the patches, of
- 8:19course, all the breakdown of the costumes because riding around
- 8:22on a motorcycle all day probably is not great for your skin and
- 8:28or your clothes. And of course, we talked about
- 8:32working with actual references, like the photo book we were
- 8:35talking about or interviews with the character that Jodi Comer
- 8:40plays, Kathy. I believe they got to listen to
- 8:43some of the actual audio. So they really got to get into
- 8:47these people. So I'm excited to talk about all
- 8:49that with Aaron, and afterwards Elizabeth and I will come
- 8:53together to tell you guys what we have coming up in our spooky
- 8:57season. Yes, I cannot wait.
- 9:00So stay tuned for that after our interview.
- 9:28I am so excited to finally be here with my friend, costume
- 9:33designer Aaron Bennick. Hey, Aaron.
- 9:36Hello. Spencer.
- 9:37It's good to finally talk to you, yeah.
- 9:40I've been, I feel like I've been anticipating talking about the
- 9:43bike riders for several hot minutes as of September.
- 9:47So, but I mean, I have been keeping the faith going and
- 9:50telling everyone how great this movie is.
- 9:51They just, you know, awesome. Thank you for doing that.
- 9:55I'm very grateful. We're grateful.
- 9:56Yes, this finally is going to get be able to be seen by the
- 10:01world. Yeah, yeah.
- 10:02Well, it's an incredible film and I've had a lot of questions
- 10:05for you, so I'm excited to get into it.
- 10:08So let's start from the beginning.
- 10:10Actually, from 1965 to 73, Danny Lyon, a photographer, documented
- 10:16and interviewed a Midwest motorcycle club for which the
- 10:19Book Writers film is inspired by.
- 10:23So already that's a lot to go off of, so I want to talk about
- 10:26your process for finding the inspiration for the costumes
- 10:29you've mentioned before, sticking close to the photos
- 10:33that you saw in the book. So how did the book influence
- 10:36your designs, and could you elaborate on how you translate
- 10:38those images into costumes? Sure.
- 10:42You know, much like I do all all of my costume design, I always
- 10:45start with the character. I'm always looking at, you know,
- 10:50what's the person, the personality.
- 10:52The psychology you know behind each individual 1 so.
- 10:57It was very similar with this, you know it was OK.
- 11:00What is the? What's?
- 11:01Johnny's, you know, story. Where did he come from?
- 11:03What does he do? He's a, he's a truck driver.
- 11:07He, he's watching and being influenced by the wild one by
- 11:13Marlon Brando. You know, he loves racing.
- 11:16He's wearing leather because it's purposeful for protection.
- 11:20He's probably got a 1950s silhouette because that's more
- 11:25his heyday and more, you know, what he's coming off of because
- 11:29we actually pick up on our film in 1963.
- 11:32So like, I knew, you know, I wanted.
- 11:34To, to, to. Go into a 50s silhouette with
- 11:36him and make him different than the the 60s boys.
- 11:40And yeah. And then, you know, and then I
- 11:43just, I would go through like each one and, you know, Jeff and
- 11:46I would talk about, you know, Jeff would be able to give me a
- 11:48lot of background. But also the book I mean Danny
- 11:51wrote a lot about and had a lot of transcripts from.
- 11:54These actual characters, so it was like a very cool, like I
- 11:58into you. Know we had voice recordings
- 12:01from Kathy. We had voice recordings from Zip
- 12:04Go and you know it. Was just, it was, it was like it
- 12:08was all. Just like that kind of
- 12:09information to make them, you know, make them real.
- 12:14And, and so even though they were in a uniform, I wanted them
- 12:19to each feel really individualized and feel like
- 12:22they had their own story. I mean, they were making all
- 12:25their own cuts and all their own, you know, their looks, they
- 12:30were doing them themselves. So it wasn't they weren't
- 12:33sitting around doing it together.
- 12:34As a group. They were doing it on their own
- 12:36and. Could you imagine?
- 12:38I, I just got a visual image of all of them just crafting, which
- 12:41I still love, but it's pretty great.
- 12:43Yeah. But you really, it almost felt
- 12:45like a reality show in a way, where you get to just really see
- 12:48people live, you know, their lives.
- 12:50And you really got to get to the philosophy of each of these
- 12:52characters, which you're really getting from looking at
- 12:55photographs and voice recordings, which is, I mean,
- 12:59like the best costume designer tool, honestly.
- 13:01You know, it really is it's, it was so helpful.
- 13:04And then there was this really cool source material.
- 13:08In addition, you know, dandelions was was amazing.
- 13:10But then also, oh, he also sent us a couple of random pictures.
- 13:16He'd like e-mail us in the middle of production and he
- 13:18would like drop us like an unseen yet, you know, picture.
- 13:23And I remember at one point I was actually having a lot of
- 13:26trouble with Benny's jeans. I was like, I couldn't find a
- 13:31silhouette and a cut and like a rise.
- 13:34Really. That?
- 13:36Was. Good.
- 13:37And I was also like, I didn't, I didn't have enough information
- 13:40because a lot of the imagery is really like tight, you know,
- 13:42it's like close-ups or, you know, like.
- 13:45You just it was hard to see. His silhouette.
- 13:47And so there was one time that Danny sent ahead an e-mail.
- 13:52And I got to see Benny's finally, his jeans, and I could
- 13:56see it and it was like it was real.
- 13:58It was really exciting. But I remember like screaming
- 14:00actually. It's a little.
- 14:05Things. A little things, a little
- 14:07things. So good.
- 14:10Yeah. And then we build.
- 14:10Jeans that you know were exactly that, because that was the
- 14:14answer, you know, it needed to be.
- 14:16It was also like. You know Austin's body in.
- 14:20You know in in character. You know, in in the jeans.
- 14:23Wanting to wanting them to fit like like those did. 60s were a
- 14:27funny gene to end it was like. They were.
- 14:29Still really high waisted, you know, the and like the the way
- 14:35that they fit these guys was just really specific.
- 14:39It was, it was definitely not like a 70s, you know, bell
- 14:43bottom time. And it was not a 50s cuff.
- 14:46It was like right in between. But yeah, it was, it was
- 14:50interesting. And they had to fit over all the
- 14:52the boots. You know, like.
- 14:53They all wore boots and they had to fit over the boots and the
- 14:57jeans. Were looking for their own
- 14:59identity at this time. They they were.
- 15:01They were. They definitely were.
- 15:05I will say 1U thing I did do is that every single piece of denim
- 15:10that you see in the film went through our Adri Dyer Troy's
- 15:14shop and he over dyed everything with a cast of like greenish
- 15:18bluish. Tint so that it all felt and
- 15:21looked. A certain kind of blue denim.
- 15:24Oh, I love that. Well, I have actually several
- 15:27aging and dying questions. So we'll we'll circle back to
- 15:30that because I love it. Sounds good.
- 15:32Let's take a moment to talk about collaborating with writing
- 15:35director Jeff Nichols. I have a quote in my notes from
- 15:38Jeff saying that after he found this book 20 years ago, that'd
- 15:41become an obsession of his life ever since and called it one of
- 15:44the coolest books he had ever come across.
- 15:46So clearly he has a passion for it.
- 15:49And I think, you know, that really shows through to film.
- 15:51So what was it like working with Jeff and what did that
- 15:53collaboration look like? This is Jeff and I's.
- 15:56Third film together. I mean, I'm just going to say
- 15:59it. He's like my favorite director
- 16:01to work with on the planet. He's so wonderful and
- 16:05commutative and. Just.
- 16:07So good at what he does. And really helps like all the
- 16:15departments work so well together, you know, Chad and
- 16:19Adam. Adam Stone are cinematographer
- 16:21and Chad are production designer.
- 16:24So talented and so great and so easy to work with.
- 16:27And just, it's just like you're, it's like a dream team.
- 16:29It really just is. I know a lot.
- 16:31Of people say that, but I like. Really, this is the one.
- 16:34This is the dream team for me. You know, I always.
- 16:37I have a rule with my husband who he's a cinematographer and
- 16:41we have. Kids and so a lot of times.
- 16:44We're negotiating who gets to go make a movie, but Jeff.
- 16:47'S my, Jeff's my no matter what. I get to go, yeah.
- 16:52Sorry, kids, Jeff calls. That sounds horrible.
- 16:58I mean, we're all thinking. It we all get it so.
- 17:01I mean, it's just real. Well, it's just true.
- 17:04I come right back. I always come back.
- 17:06Right. Yeah, so, so, you know, I I knew
- 17:12about bike riders years before because Jeff had told me about
- 17:16it, you know, back in the day when we were shooting other
- 17:19things or talking or whatever. And so I knew about it.
- 17:23And I remember, you know, I remember just being like.
- 17:25Well, when that one gets off the ground, I am going to have a
- 17:30field day. I was just.
- 17:32I knew it. I knew it, you know?
- 17:34I knew. I knew.
- 17:35The I knew it was just going to be one of those like juicy,
- 17:38juicy, amazing costume, you know, movies and I was so
- 17:42excited to to be able to get to do it so.
- 17:45Yeah, well. Yeah.
- 17:47I'm glad that he called because it was obviously worth it and I
- 17:50loved seeing it. So thanks Jeff for.
- 17:53Thanks, Jeff. Thank you, Jeff.
- 17:56But but I will say he. Oh, the red there, yeah.
- 18:01I'll say for audiences, we're looking at a picture of Tom
- 18:05Austin and Cal Boyd. Holbrook.
- 18:10On on their on their bikes. And this red shirt that I gave
- 18:14to Johnny was actually something that was in the reference
- 18:16material on him. And as soon as I clocked it, I
- 18:19knew that I wanted to use red for him.
- 18:21Red is always that, you know that color that on film and on
- 18:24anything. Just if there's not a ton of
- 18:26red. It really pops and stands out,
- 18:28so I was. I was very purposeful in my in
- 18:32my use of it, and Johnny was the only one that really had it.
- 18:35Well, since we're talking about Johnny, Johnny's played by Tom
- 18:38Hardy, who's my favorite character.
- 18:40I love all of his scenes and Johnny, he's so good in this and
- 18:45he's the Vandals founder a long time, you know, owner, and he's
- 18:49trying to set an example for the up and comers as best he can.
- 18:53We have to give him some grace. That being said, Johnny presents
- 18:58a little differently than the new recruit.
- 18:59So as he started to say, how would you define Johnny's style?
- 19:04Yeah, Johnny is 1950s silhouette.
- 19:07Versus 60s. He instead of, you know, going
- 19:12leather with the denim cut over it, he'll just go leather jacket
- 19:17clean with his colors directly on the back.
- 19:21He's also got his denim, which is which he's got his colors on
- 19:25the back. Is that as well?
- 19:27You know, he, he, he has some more options.
- 19:30He doesn't need to make it interchangeable like the other
- 19:32guys do. And so he, yeah, he just kind of
- 19:36has some more options because he's he's he's a leader.
- 19:38He's a boss. He's a bit more leisurely, you
- 19:41know, he comes into office a little late if he wants and.
- 19:47Boing it down. Well, let's get into the Vandals
- 19:56Motorcycle Club. The costumes really add to the
- 19:59immersion of the film, which is what I love about it.
- 20:02So we've talked about a little bit, but authenticity, I feel
- 20:06like in the bike riders was the most important.
- 20:09And, you know, ensuring the accuracy through every layer of
- 20:13clothing, which I've read from you, goes all the way down to
- 20:15the men's underwear. So crafting the biker's vest as
- 20:19a reflection of each of their character's personality
- 20:22affiliations, Just how did you costume so many different, you
- 20:26know, characters in this club while giving them each or
- 20:28different personality? How are they customizing it?
- 20:31What does that look like? Yeah.
- 20:33I think that was that was. One of my biggest challenges and
- 20:36something that I was really. Trying to make sure that I did,
- 20:40which was make characters not just a, a bunch, you know, a
- 20:45group of guys. We would start by, you know,
- 20:49making a, a base kind of cut over, you know, jacket denim.
- 20:56Over, over cut. And.
- 20:59We would. We would have our base, we'd
- 21:01have our. Automobile Association patch
- 21:05over here and then everybody would have their vandals patch
- 21:07over here, their one percenter patch which the Automobile
- 21:11Association Club of America had made a a public statement and
- 21:16said, you know, 19. I think people were complaining
- 21:18about the motorcycles that were appearing on the road and they
- 21:21were saying, you know, 990. 9% of our riders are completely law
- 21:27abiding citizens. Wow.
- 21:29So yeah, the bikers really like that.
- 21:32And they, they took their 1% and they, they owned it.
- 21:36I mean, it's a great merch, I get it.
- 21:43Good stuff. Yeah.
- 21:44So then, you know, and then on top of that, it was all about
- 21:46like how, you know, Benny, for example, he was so nonchalant
- 21:51and. And the idea was that he he
- 21:54didn't care enough to do too much to his you know, we didn't
- 21:59want to like overdo him. You know, he was he's the
- 22:03ultimate, you know, I don't give up like guy.
- 22:06And as soon as you like put too much on him or anything it like
- 22:10it. Kind of it.
- 22:11It lost its its. Authenticity, you know, for him
- 22:16it was just about a drapey silhouette with his, you know,
- 22:21his jacket, his mother jacket and his cut.
- 22:24Even his pants were like had a a slightly different baggy or
- 22:29kind. Of cut than how the other guys
- 22:32did. Yeah, it was all just about
- 22:34exuding like a nonchalance and I'm not trying in an
- 22:37effortlessness for for Benny. That's interesting.
- 22:41Yeah. I mean, Benny, he the story
- 22:44really revolves around Benny and he's kind of unique in the sense
- 22:48that you kind of mentioned he's a lone wolf and he's just trying
- 22:51to figure out his place, but he's still looking for that
- 22:53community and such a major character.
- 22:56And obviously Austin Butler has been on fire recently.
- 23:00So I was going to ask you, was it like working with the man,
- 23:04the myth, the legend, Austin Butler and creating Butler and
- 23:07creating Benny? He's he's.
- 23:09Wonderful, I mean. He's.
- 23:12You know, he's like a, he's very professional, He's very
- 23:15interested in figuring out the character, really intrigued by
- 23:20the process, You know, because a lot of these guys, I would start
- 23:22off in the fitting room and I would basically put a brand new
- 23:26denim jacket over a leather jacket and they would look at it
- 23:30and they'd. Be like this looks kind of
- 23:32weird. And I'd be like, trust me, trust
- 23:34me, trust me. Next time you see me, it's going
- 23:36to look very different, you know, but it's all like, how
- 23:39does that, you know, how does the the denim like lay?
- 23:42On top of the. Leather and getting the right
- 23:44fit in size and then and then we just started like hacking away
- 23:49and like creating these denim vests, you know, and each were
- 23:51just hand done. By.
- 23:53You know. Several.
- 23:55Different people in my department.
- 23:57I mean, at some point we're all just sitting around crafting the
- 24:00vests ourselves. You know you're joking around
- 24:03about the bike riders doing it, but.
- 24:04We actually do that. That was actually us.
- 24:08That's actually us. Oh gosh, at some point I think
- 24:11we put Jeff's son to work and he made some too.
- 24:15I mean, everybody, every we, we like, we made like a, an APB
- 24:18announcement. Come, come make it.
- 24:20Aaron was a Johnny played by Tom Hardy character.
- 24:23Just telling people what to do and bring your crafting
- 24:26supplies. Yes, that's right.
- 24:31And then I told everybody to burn it down.
- 24:37Well, another character in this film that we have to talk about
- 24:41is of course, all the patches going on, all these vests.
- 24:44I mean, thank you, yes. The you must have a story about
- 24:48the patches because they are they they take control and I
- 24:53love it. I love looking at all the.
- 24:54Different. Patches.
- 24:56I should send you a picture too. Of.
- 24:59I bet I could find it of of. The patchwork, so all the
- 25:04patches of the aging and dying in the aging and dying facility,
- 25:08because we had to make them all and, you know, we couldn't use
- 25:11anything existing. So we had to like create all of
- 25:14these, you know, images at all of these words and slogans and
- 25:19and pictures. And did you know?
- 25:22That evil spelled backwards is live.
- 25:25That was not one of the patches. I I guess I did not know.
- 25:30That no, you know, not enough. I.
- 25:34Had. No idea.
- 25:36Yeah. Yeah, it was good.
- 25:38It was good stuff. Anyway, so yeah, we made, we had
- 25:41to make them all and it we had to make them once you had your
- 25:46base. Patch.
- 25:46Of the, you know, the vandals and then the other one,
- 25:49everything then became individualized and it was really
- 25:53important that they all felt different and they didn't feel
- 25:55like they were all. Just choosing from the same.
- 25:57Batch. So we, you know, each of the
- 25:59bike riders here kind of had their own little like stash.
- 26:04And the way we did it in our department was we made probably
- 26:06like 120 patches and then did multiples of each of them
- 26:10because you know, a lot of these guys needed multiples for stunt
- 26:13writers and scenes and all that stuff.
- 26:16So then we had like at least 5 or 6, you know of each one got
- 26:21you know, then it went to the Adri Dyer went to Troy's World
- 26:26and got, you know, all aged and died.
- 26:28And then we had these like nicely aged and dyed patches
- 26:32that we then. We actually use like a tree a.
- 26:36A shoe bag, hanging shoe bag organizery thing.
- 26:40And we just had all the patches like lined up in these things.
- 26:45And it was just like, it was like, you're in a craft store
- 26:47and you're like, yeah, I'll take one of those these.
- 26:50This kind of makes sense for this guy.
- 26:52And this makes sense for zip code.
- 26:55He seems like he's from Europe and he would talk about this
- 26:57and. You know, it was just about
- 26:59like, and then, you know, knowing how many multiple
- 27:02multiples we would need and yeah, so we kind of like created
- 27:05like a store of all that GAC really, you know, whether it was
- 27:09like barbed wire metalwork that we used or pins that we made.
- 27:15We made the pins again because you just needed so many of them
- 27:19and multiples and they new, new ones just don't look good.
- 27:23They don't look right. They don't look, period.
- 27:26Well, Speaking of multiples, then, I'm excited to talk about
- 27:28the aging and dying process, which you've hinted that I
- 27:31imagine with a film like this, it must have been quite
- 27:34extensive. And it really shows throughout
- 27:36the film because they go through dirt, you know, whatever you go
- 27:41through in a motorcycle club, cigarette smoke, blood all.
- 27:46Of it, all of the above. I don't think any of these
- 27:50people shop at Target in the bike riders so.
- 27:53I don't think they do. No.
- 27:55What did that process? Look.
- 27:58Like. I mean, it's a it's a good point
- 28:01though. I mean you can't picture them
- 28:02shopping. They seem to be wearing a lot of
- 28:04their stuff until it's it's good and done.
- 28:08Exactly, exactly. My hero is Troy David so.
- 28:14Talented. He's so awesome.
- 28:17He really understood the kind of grime that we wanted and needed.
- 28:27That's the word. I was looking for crime.
- 28:30There you go. It's.
- 28:31Proper and he really. Just got it.
- 28:34He really understood the that. I had a rule.
- 28:37That I was like, nothing goes set without going through him.
- 28:40First, it cannot it it cannot. And so, you know, it was just
- 28:46constantly, even if he just. Had to hit it a little bit but
- 28:51everything really got. Really got the once over over
- 28:56there, you know, it was the airbrushing and the shading to
- 28:58give it that like overall dust feeling Rd. dust, you know, then
- 29:03it was like grease stains for like the bike their hands.
- 29:08You know, they had grease on them all the time and it was
- 29:11amazing because I know from experience that it never looks
- 29:16as much as it does in person. I mean, I think it's like it
- 29:20always looks 30% less than what you see in person.
- 29:23Maybe 40. And especially with film, I kind
- 29:30of knew I was like even maybe 50, so I pushed it really hard,
- 29:35which was hard on Troy. Hard on my old team but I was
- 29:40like always like. More, more, more more.
- 29:43And when you see these pictures of like these pieces kind of
- 29:47like in regular lighting on their own, you just it they look
- 29:50insane. They look like they they look
- 29:53insane. But then when it got on camera
- 29:55and when it got to like filming and between, you know, the
- 29:58lighting and the kind of natural lighting that Adam does and, and
- 30:02just the film and everything, it, it didn't look crazy at all.
- 30:05So. Yeah, I mean, it levels out and
- 30:08it feels very authentic and true.
- 30:09Like I would believe each of these people are working on
- 30:12their cars after work or, you know, they've been wearing it
- 30:15for a three day ride and they've been sweating in it and it's
- 30:18just every bug is hitting them on the road.
- 30:21It's, you know, it's messy in the best way possible.
- 30:24And I. Love it.
- 30:25One character who is not very grimy, at least when we met her,
- 30:29is Jodie Comer's Kathy, who serves as a narrator for this
- 30:33story. At first, I felt like Kathy's
- 30:36very buttoned up when we see her walk into that bar at 1st.
- 30:40And much like the audience, much like myself, you know, she kind
- 30:44of goes through an evolution throughout this film.
- 30:45She starts to become a little bit a part of the culture from,
- 30:49you know, come from a point where she was very kind of
- 30:50disgusted and terrified at first when she meets, you know, Benny
- 30:53and whatnot. So how did you show that
- 30:56evolution and Kathy? Kathy was such a great
- 31:01opportunity to show because we live so much of the time in the
- 31:05bike riders world. It she, it was so great to see
- 31:08her outside of the bike riders world.
- 31:12So you you, you felt that juxtaposition.
- 31:15One of the things that was really important to to Jeff and
- 31:18Jody and myself was that Kathy didn't like lose herself in the
- 31:23bike riders culture. You know, she didn't just become
- 31:26a biker. Chick she, she.
- 31:28Always stayed her own person. She always stayed true to who
- 31:32she was. And it was important to reflect
- 31:35that, you know, in her clothing that she, yeah, you know, she,
- 31:39she, she grabbed the denim and she had some.
- 31:41Boots. But she had a brown suede
- 31:43jacket, you know, not a black leather jacket.
- 31:46And she, you know, she. She had her issues with the
- 31:50club. You know, it both saved her and
- 31:53gave her family, but it was also, you know, hurtful and
- 31:56harmful for her family. So yeah, it was important to me
- 32:00that she threw out she, even though she's sort of she, she
- 32:06Dons pieces, but it's not all the time and it's not completely
- 32:10and totally. All the way.
- 32:12And I think she, so in the beginning, she's got a lot of I,
- 32:15I really like using a lot of kind of popping purples on her
- 32:19and popping pinks like a bubble gum pink.
- 32:21And kind of this, like I, I actually really imagined it the
- 32:25first time I ever read the script without even looking at
- 32:27the book yet. I literally pictured the purple
- 32:31that she wears when she comes into the bar.
- 32:33It was this very specific. I don't know.
- 32:36I just like it was like it's like a pinkish purple and I
- 32:41really, I had, you know, sometimes you do that when you
- 32:43read a script. You're just like.
- 32:44You just imagine a color, you just, you have it.
- 32:48And that particular 1 I had really imagined, I remember we
- 32:51found something at a costume house that was similar and but
- 32:55it didn't fit right. And so we, we know, we wound up,
- 32:58I think making it or cutting down the multiples or I don't
- 33:01know what we did something, something to, but, but anyway,
- 33:07it was like really important to me that you had those like
- 33:08really fun popping colors to start out with.
- 33:10And then slowly as she gets into, you know, bike rider
- 33:13culture and she's like, she's slowly starting to get more into
- 33:17their color palette with the Blues and the Browns and the
- 33:20blacks. And then finally kind of towards
- 33:22the end, we're into the 70s at that point.
- 33:25And she's, you know, she's in her like little brown shorts
- 33:29and. Like a like a light lightly.
- 33:33Heathered pink and green sweater and yeah, she's more into like
- 33:39her 70s color palette. But it was really important that
- 33:42she felt very authentic and real to the original Kathy that we
- 33:47had, you know, listen to all that audio footage of and
- 33:51figured out, you know, where what she was like and what her
- 33:57socio economic status was and her education and her, you know,
- 34:03all those things that inform a person.
- 34:05Yeah, I know. And she was a great anchor and
- 34:07just someone that, you know, you felt comfortable with.
- 34:09And you could just kind of see the conflict that she has
- 34:12between wanting to be a part of something, but then also want to
- 34:16get it get away from all these people, which isn't the same for
- 34:20all the characters and all the women.
- 34:22I there was actually a character that I was kind of struck by the
- 34:24first time I saw her. I believe her name is GAIL.
- 34:27I loved seeing her costume. She was very much in it where
- 34:31she was wearing the black leather.
- 34:33She had the big beehive hairdo. We're just talking about this
- 34:36character for a moment. I like she was.
- 34:38Striking, please. She's so striking.
- 34:41She was so great. She was so fun.
- 34:46I remember actually doing her and feeling like the first
- 34:51couple times I didn't get it right because she was like
- 34:54somebody that kind of came to a slate and I remember being like,
- 34:57oh, this is like a really important character.
- 34:59Or this is an opportunity I. Think I remember thinking, you
- 35:02know, like this is like an opportunity to really show some
- 35:04some women's style here and I think I'm I think I like did and
- 35:08redid her like a bunch of times because it was kind of a little
- 35:11bit tricky to find it, you know, sometimes it like.
- 35:14Happens. She's like the one character
- 35:15that's kind of like in between both worlds, where he could
- 35:17really understand the period but then also understand the club
- 35:21and understand Kathy like she does a lot.
- 35:23She's a big piece. She is, she is.
- 35:26She's really she's. Really informative and yeah, it
- 35:30was important that she was like that.
- 35:32She was one of them, and she really felt comfortable around
- 35:36all the guys. And she she also represented
- 35:40like, what it was to be a female like, so embedded into that
- 35:43culture. And yeah, it was interesting.
- 35:46It was interesting to see like, finding her femininity within
- 35:50all of it as well. The story introduces many
- 35:54characters, of course. We could feel the real tensions
- 35:57start to rise when some of the younger new members like for
- 36:00ways to break their way into the club.
- 36:02And with these characters I found to be very interesting,
- 36:06you know, obviously without spoiling anything, that caused
- 36:09lots of trouble. And you could see the difference
- 36:13in conflict between the younger members and the more established
- 36:18members. And in fact, they also looked a
- 36:21little bit differently. I mean, they just looked like
- 36:23they were trying to be something that they weren't at times.
- 36:27Thank you Spencer. That was the goal man all.
- 36:30Right, well, we're done here then.
- 36:32Yeah, I mean, they they they needed to feel youthful and
- 36:39young and not part of the group yet.
- 36:41And they needed to feel like an outsider trying to be in it as
- 36:44an insider. And so, you know, sometimes like
- 36:49doing costumes is like you almost have to let you if once
- 36:54you know what you're your end goal is, you have to like then
- 36:57kind of like peel back to get to like where you want to be.
- 37:00And so I kind of knew already by the time I had started doing
- 37:03Toby Wallace, you know, one of the newbies I had known kind of
- 37:08what our. What our crosshairs was like,
- 37:10what our like goal was like, of what they needed to look like to
- 37:13feel authentic. And I had found it at that
- 37:16point. And so when I started doing him,
- 37:17I was like, OK, cool, I want to. Go shy.
- 37:19Of that I want to like make sure I go shy of that and so it's
- 37:21like. A little ill fitting, a little
- 37:24bit too big, but not in like the right places, kind of in the
- 37:28wrong places. And he was also like, really?
- 37:31Poor and we I didn't want it to feel like he, you know, he like
- 37:36came on the screen and like looked so good, you know and.
- 37:40Part of that was like the T-shirts.
- 37:42That he would wear super oversized T-shirts he'd wear
- 37:45underneath and the pants that, you know, barely fit there.
- 37:48Maybe his dad's. We kind of had thought like,
- 37:50maybe he took his dad's and like, chopped them up a little
- 37:53bit and like, you know, made them look a certain way to like,
- 37:57sort of feel a little bit more individual.
- 37:59But. But yeah, that was important.
- 38:01And the other kids, too. Yeah, they felt like if I were
- 38:05to join a motorcycle club tomorrow, I'd be like, well, I
- 38:08think going to wear something like this and you know which?
- 38:13I mean, they did it. Better but.
- 38:15I think, I think you can walk right into one of these bike
- 38:19riders, these vandals looks. I think you walk right in.
- 38:22Yeah, put on my Vans and my my Stevie Nicks concert T-shirt I
- 38:27have on and just blend right in. What would happen if you jumped
- 38:31on a motorcycle? Would it fall down?
- 38:33Would you die? Oh yeah, it would fall down.
- 38:35I have actually tried to ride a dirt bike before and that ended
- 38:38in complete failure. So I I feel like that's like the
- 38:41training wheels version. Yeah, that'd be hard.
- 38:47Yeah, so Aaron, we're getting to the end here, but I'm having
- 38:51such a good time. In your in your opinion, how do
- 38:55costumes contribute to character development and storytelling in
- 38:59a film such as The Bike Riders Looking Back?
- 39:02I mean, I think that when you're talking about a world that was
- 39:10almost like a microcosm within this, you know, period time, the
- 39:1660s, you're, you know, you need all your firings, right?
- 39:22You need all the things to like give you the information and to
- 39:25make you feel the world around you.
- 39:28You know, you need your production design, you need
- 39:30your, your walls and your chairs and your signage and your
- 39:34lighting and, and you need your haircuts and your faces and your
- 39:38facial hair and, and your head hair and all that stuff.
- 39:42And then, yeah, you really need, you really need the clothes to,
- 39:46to to help tell that story. You know, both the, the story of
- 39:50who they are as individuals, you know, within the group and also,
- 39:54you know, I mean, these guys, they were, they were
- 39:57intimidating and they needed to feel it.
- 40:00They needed to look really scary.
- 40:02And, and I think it was important too.
- 40:05I hope, I hope I I did that. I hope they look that way.
- 40:08I hope they look intimidating. I hope they look kind of insane.
- 40:12And in some ways, you know Corky, he was one of my
- 40:16favorites. He would like.
- 40:18I remember the fitting. I was just like, I don't even
- 40:21think he wears a shirt. I mean, why does he even need to
- 40:23wear a shirt? He's just like, he's so insane.
- 40:25He's like the. Guy who just like.
- 40:26Put a vest on and like not wear the shirt and you know and it.
- 40:30It it it. Is that it was that it was about
- 40:33about trying to find the sort of that energy of like defiance and
- 40:39kind of insanity and yeah, and just anarchy, you know, and, and
- 40:46I that was, I hope it was, I hope it was captured in the
- 40:49clothing. It definitely was.
- 40:51I mean, I feel like, you know, before I even saw the bike
- 40:53riders, I feel like this would be a difficult project to design
- 40:56A costumes for because we all kind of know what like a biker
- 40:59might look like, or at least what I think might look like.
- 41:01They're wearing denim and leather.
- 41:03But you have to really tell like the story of each of these
- 41:06characters with like subtle differences such as, you know,
- 41:09Johnny, he, he, you know, is scary, but you also kind of feel
- 41:13like you might be able to talk to him through the way he
- 41:15presents himself. But then like Norman Reed is his
- 41:18character. You're like, oh, like I know
- 41:19that guy. He's, you know, I've met him in
- 41:22Venice before. Like so like, like all these
- 41:25different characters, they're very in ways similar, but
- 41:29different. And that really has to do a lot
- 41:31with the costume design and makeup and whatnot, so.
- 41:35Yeah, you killed the Oh, thanks to Spencer.
- 41:39Thanks so much for saying that. It it really means so much to
- 41:42me. I mean, yeah, failing.
- 41:44At a project like this is. I think it just, yeah, it would
- 41:49be embarrassing. Well, that didn't happen, so no
- 41:54worries about that. Costume designer Aaron Bennick,
- 41:56thank you so much for joining. This has been.
- 41:58Such a join. Thank you, Spencer.
- 42:00Thank you for having me on I. Really really, really love your
- 42:03podcast. Thank.
- 42:05You. Hi, this is Dan, Audio engineer
- 42:22of the podcast here to let you know that if you wanted to
- 42:26support the show, you can head over to the Art of
- 42:29costume.com/podstore. There you can buy some awesome T
- 42:34public merch with the podcast logo such as a shirt, coffee
- 42:39mug, stickers, and of course a baby onesie.
- 42:44Thanks for all your support. That was such a fun interview.
- 43:07Oh my gosh. Like the work she put into that
- 43:10is incredible. Yeah, it was, it was a lot of
- 43:13fun. And like I said, like I'm very
- 43:16close, dangerously close to gain a motorcycle and putting on the
- 43:19jacket and, you know, maybe putting this whole thing behind
- 43:23me and just being out on the roads, you know, you'd see that
- 43:27for me. No.
- 43:30So Eliza was just looking at me with shame in her eyes.
- 43:33It it would be fun. Hi I know you would fall once
- 43:39and be like ow I can't do this. It is true, I do remember
- 43:43getting on a dirt bike when I was a kid and I just did not get
- 43:46how you keep those things up. So I remember my parents got us
- 43:50a dirt bike once and I remember watching my brother try to learn
- 43:55how to ride it. And I was just like, oh, that's
- 43:58scary. Actually, I'm good.
- 44:01Well, thank you so much to costume designer Aaron Bennick
- 44:04for joining us. It was so fun to get to know her
- 44:08and have a one-on-one talk because every time you know,
- 44:10we've met in the past, it's always been at parties or at
- 44:13this movie premiere. So it's good to get to know her
- 44:15and I'm excited what else she has coming up because she has
- 44:19such an eye for costume design. Elizabeth, it's time to talk
- 44:24about what we have coming up next.
- 44:26And I'm very excited actually. So this year we really didn't
- 44:32have like a plan for what episodes we were going to
- 44:34release. We were just kind of making up
- 44:35as we go, except for spooky season.
- 44:39I think our spooky season has been written since probably
- 44:42December 2023. I am so excited because this
- 44:47spooky season is the season of the witches, Spencer.
- 44:54Daniel, can we get like some lightning and Thunder and scary
- 44:58noises? Yeah.
- 45:02Oh, OK. Season of the Witch.
- 45:04I'm very excited. We're going to be talking about
- 45:05all of, you know, our favorite spooky witches that we could
- 45:10pack into one month. So we won't get to airy spooky
- 45:13witch, but we're going to talk about some specific ones that
- 45:15we're excited to talk about. Elizabeth, what is our first
- 45:19film going to be? Spencer we are starting with a
- 45:23classic. We are starting with a 90s
- 45:27classic. I'm talking about the craft.
- 45:31Yeah, I'm excited for this one. Me too.
- 45:34I've never seen this movie because I I wasn't allowed.
- 45:37I wasn't allowed to watch anything with like witches
- 45:39growing up. So I've never seen the craft and
- 45:45I've I've always been interested.
- 45:46So I cannot wait, especially because like it's influence on
- 45:49fashion is pretty even with never seeing it.
- 45:53I'm like, Oh yeah, like 90s staple.
- 45:56In terms of costume and fashion, absolutely, 100 per cent.
- 46:03And then after the craft, Spencer, we have a favor of
- 46:07yours. Yeah, I'm so excited for this
- 46:10one. I can't believe that we, I
- 46:12somehow snuck it into the schedule, but it's happening.
- 46:15We are taking it all the way back to, you know, the Salem
- 46:20witch trials and whatnot, and we're going to be watching The
- 46:24Witch featuring a very baby Anya Taylor Joy, one of her first
- 46:30films. I love this movie.
- 46:32It is creepy and disturbing, everything that I love.
- 46:38This is another movie I haven't seen, even though you're
- 46:41convinced. I.
- 46:42I saw it in the theatre with you.
- 46:44We've been having this argument for This is why we haven't done
- 46:47it on the podcast, probably. We've been having this argument
- 46:49for like two seasons now where I'm very convinced we saw in
- 46:52theaters together with our friend Avisha, and Elizabeth
- 46:56swears it didn't happen. It did not happen who that third
- 47:02person was, but it was not me. It was so you.
- 47:07It was not me. One thing, however, that you did
- 47:10convince me to watch in college was one of our favorite witchy
- 47:15TV shows. Oh gosh.
- 47:17Salem. Okay, this we recognize this
- 47:22episode might be a stretch, but there is this great show.
- 47:26I can't tell you where it was on originally, but it's called
- 47:30Salem and it is. It can't be Salem Witch trials
- 47:35messed. It's fantastic.
- 47:38I mean, this could be our Penny Dreadful of the year where we
- 47:41find a bunch of closeted Salem fans.
- 47:44Yeah, I mean it very well could because the the costumes in that
- 47:48show slap they are. So good.
- 47:52They are. The show is bonkers.
- 47:55The costumes are amazing. Yeah, it's such a stretch, but
- 48:01it's going to be so fun. But the next film I'm very
- 48:05excited to get it to is none other than The Witches, starring
- 48:09Angelica Houston. I know Elizabeth probably hasn't
- 48:13seen this one yet, but it is Angelica Houston just at her
- 48:18prime. I think it's right up there
- 48:20against her. Morticia Adams.
- 48:23This is like oh. It's bull talk.
- 48:26I It's so good and Joka Houston is insane and just seeing all
- 48:31the witches come into this town that's definitely like in New
- 48:35England somewhere. I want to say Maine or whatnot.
- 48:37It's just it's the perfect spooky season vibes.
- 48:41You'll want to have some soup, wrap yourself up in a blanket
- 48:45and watch the witches. You're gonna thank me after this
- 48:47episode. OK, OK.
- 48:49Yeah, I'm trusting you on that. And for our very last episode,
- 48:55we are all trusting Disney Plus with this last edition to our
- 49:02season of the witch spooky season lineup.
- 49:06Spencer this We've all been waiting on this witch.
- 49:11We are going to be watching Agatha all along and I'm very,
- 49:16very excited for this. I thought Agatha was such a fun
- 49:18character in Wanda Vision, which is.
- 49:20So fun. I just remembered we have an
- 49:22episode about Wanda Vision, don't we?
- 49:24We do. It's like Season 2.
- 49:26I want to say it's Season 1. I think it's early.
- 49:29I think it was our first TV series we ever did.
- 49:33Do you think so? I think it was.
- 49:36Let me do some detective work. Yeah, well, you fact checked
- 49:40that while I ramble about Agatha.
- 49:42But I love Agatha. I think Catherine Hahn is so
- 49:45great. And you, she uses all those
- 49:47purples and interesting fabrics. But then we get to see her in a
- 49:50more quiet, you know, powerless way in this film, and I'm very
- 49:55excited for it. Also, it has Aubrey Plaza and
- 49:58Patti Lupone. Oh, I.
- 50:00Forgot about that. That's going to be great.
- 50:02So I'm very excited for this title.
- 50:05Oh, you're right, Spencer. It was season 1.
- 50:07Oh my gosh, it's one of our long episodes.
- 50:09Yeah, that one's probably a doozy, but I I want to say it's
- 50:14probably worth it though. So if you all want to scroll all
- 50:17the way back to baby Spencer and Elizabeth podcasters, there's a
- 50:21great episode about one division, and that is our Season
- 50:24of the Wish lineup that'll be coming out in October.
- 50:27And then you're going to want to stick around though, because our
- 50:29very first episode in November is an absolute anger.
- 50:35We just actually recorded most of it yesterday and I think both
- 50:40of us are still kind of shaking. I've never been so nervous for
- 50:44an episode and so excited all at the same time.
- 50:47It's such a good one. So we have a lot to come out
- 50:50this year. In the meantime, make sure you
- 50:53subscribe to us on youtube.com slash at the Art of Costume
- 50:58Instagram at the Art of Costume Pod TikTok at the Art of
- 51:02Costume. So don't forget to leave us a
- 51:04five star text review on Apple podcasts and it's starting to
- 51:07get a little chilly out. I hope by the time you hear this
- 51:10because it's still kind of warm out at the moment, but.
- 51:13Yeah, it's a lot warm out. It's our merch store,
- 51:16theartofcostume.com/pod store, and get yourself maybe a long
- 51:19sleeve shirt or a hoodie and ready for that cold winter.
- 51:23You're going to need it for the season of the Witch because it's
- 51:25going to get chilly. Absolutely.
- 51:29So excited. Thank you all for listening and
- 51:33we'll see you soon. Have a great week everybody.
- 51:41The Art of Costume podcast is hosted and produced by Elizabeth
- 51:45Joy Glass and Spencer Williams. Our audio engineering and
- 51:50editing is done by Dan White. Follow us on TikTok at The Art
- 51:55of Costume and Instagram at the Art of Costume Pod.
- 51:59If you want to support the show, go to theartofcostume.com/pod
- 52:04store. For more podcast updates,
- 52:07costume reviews, deep dives and interviews, go to
- 52:12theartofcostume.com, A blog dedicated to highlighting the
- 52:17best in costume design.