Latest / New Worlder / Episode #104: Dave Pynt
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_00: This is the New Order podcast and I am one of your hosts, Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_00: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:08SPEAKER_00: Today we are speaking with Dave Pint.
- 0:11He is the Perth,
- 0:12Australia-born chef of the restaurant Burnt Ends in Singapore.
- 0:17Burnt Ends opened since 2013,
- 0:20which followed a pop-up in London from the year before.
- 0:24has been one of the restaurants driving the global conversation
- 0:28around modern barbecue,
- 0:30SPEAKER_00: which,
- 0:31SPEAKER_00: as Pint explains,
- 0:32SPEAKER_00: is barbecue where anything goes.
- 0:34SPEAKER_00: It's not attached to tradition, to history, or to borders.
- 0:38It simply means a focus on cooking over fire,
- 0:42and the influences are many.
- 0:44SPEAKER_00: It doesn't even necessarily mean cooking meat,
- 0:46SPEAKER_00: as you might assume with the word barbecue as it is used
- 0:50SPEAKER_00: in the United States.
- 0:51SPEAKER_00: Peent recently published a book about the restaurant,
- 0:55SPEAKER_00: which is unlike almost any cookbook I've ever seen.
- 1:00It's not the kind of restaurant cookbook where it's a
- 1:03straightforward life story
- 1:04SPEAKER_00: plus some recipes.
- 1:06SPEAKER_00: Much of the history is written and illustrated like a graphic novel.
- 1:10There are interviews and thoughts about techniques surrounding
- 1:13cooking with fire.
- 1:14SPEAKER_00: And as we talk about in the interview,
- 1:16SPEAKER_00: He didn't even want to include recipes, but ultimately he caved.
- 1:20But those recipes are written just as they are used in the
- 1:23restaurant rather than
- 1:24SPEAKER_00: trying to dumb them down for a home kitchen.
- 1:26SPEAKER_00: So some of them have like 40 portions and things like that.
- 1:31SPEAKER_00: It's not usual.
- 1:33SPEAKER_00: He worked with mutual friends of mine, P.A.
- 1:36SPEAKER_00: and Lotte Jorgensen.
- 1:38who you might know from the Swedish food magazine Fool in
- 1:41creating this book,
- 1:42SPEAKER_00: which together they self-published,
- 1:44SPEAKER_00: so they didn't have to make any compromises in the style.
- 1:48SPEAKER_00: In the interview,
- 1:49SPEAKER_00: we discuss the path that Pint took from working around the world,
- 1:54SPEAKER_00: the time he spent traveling in South America,
- 1:57SPEAKER_00: how Asador Etsebari impacted his life,
- 2:01and the change in setup from his previously small restaurant in
- 2:05Singapore's Chinatown,
- 2:06SPEAKER_00: to a much bigger spread with multiple concepts on Dempsey Hill,
- 2:11SPEAKER_00: which he opened just a couple of years ago.
- 2:13SPEAKER_00: If you haven't subscribed to my newsletter,
- 2:15SPEAKER_00: just go to neworder.com or search for New Order on Substack.
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- 2:20SPEAKER_00: The paid subscribers get access to all content and archives.
- 2:24SPEAKER_00: Again, just go to neworder.com.
- 2:26Also look for my books,
- 2:27such as the Latin American Cookbook at small bookstores everywhere.
- 2:32SPEAKER_00: And don't forget to check out the New Worlder YouTube channel.
- 2:35We have full video episodes there,
- 2:38as well as some clips and other video content.
- 2:40SPEAKER_00: This whole interview will be there, full video.
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- 2:52SPEAKER_00: Enjoy the show.
- 3:37SPEAKER_00: Hey, Dave.
- 3:38SPEAKER_01: How's it going?
- 3:40SPEAKER_01: Very good, man.
- 3:40SPEAKER_01: How are you guys?
- 3:42SPEAKER_03: Hi, Dave.
- 3:43SPEAKER_00: How are you?
- 3:45SPEAKER_03: Good, thanks.
- 3:46SPEAKER_00: We're good.
- 3:47SPEAKER_00: Good.
- 3:47SPEAKER_00: There's an ice storm where I'm at this morning.
- 3:49SPEAKER_00: What's the weather like in Singapore?
- 3:53It's a little bit cooler than it usually is because we've had a
- 3:57lot of rain.
- 3:58SPEAKER_01: It's monsoon season.
- 4:01SPEAKER_01: And so everything's a little bit cooler than normal.
- 4:03So it's like mid to high 20s,
- 4:05which is actually really nice for Singapore.
- 4:08SPEAKER_00: Yeah, right.
- 4:09SPEAKER_00: I mean, the heat's like extreme there most of the year, right?
- 4:14SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 4:14SPEAKER_01: So when we get into summer,
- 4:15it'll be like cracking over 40 degrees and it's like super
- 4:18humid still and just...
- 4:20SPEAKER_01: really, really, really hard.
- 4:22Whereas now it's like,
- 4:23yeah,
- 4:23there's a lot of rain,
- 4:25but it's nice and cool.
- 4:26SPEAKER_01: So it's very nice to be in here.
- 4:28So it must be good to work in a live fire environment in that
- 4:32kind of heat.
- 4:34try yeah we've got a lot of air con which balances it out if
- 4:40we're in a colder
- 4:41climate you'd be like thank god thank god we're cooking with
- 4:44fire because we can
- 4:45just go stand by it and warm up everyone would be fighting over
- 4:48the grills and
- 4:48ovens so so i've never been to burn ends like in any version of
- 4:53it sadly because
- 4:55SPEAKER_00: i'm from what i think yeah thanks man
- 4:58SPEAKER_00: So usually when I do these interviews,
- 5:00SPEAKER_00: I usually know the person a little bit because it's a long interview.
- 5:05SPEAKER_00: It's like an hour.
- 5:07SPEAKER_00: And to have a conversation,
- 5:08it's better to know them a little bit just to kind of break the
- 5:12ice and not just go
- 5:16SPEAKER_00: over a basic history of blah,
- 5:18SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 5:18SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 5:18SPEAKER_00: where do you learn to cook and that kind of stuff.
- 5:22SPEAKER_00: But we have a friend in common in PA.
- 5:23SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 5:27SPEAKER_01: Oh, yeah.
- 5:28SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah.
- 5:28SPEAKER_00: Obviously.
- 5:31So when I saw he shot the book and he was working with you guys
- 5:35for a few years on this,
- 5:37SPEAKER_00: I guess.
- 5:39SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it took about two years.
- 5:41SPEAKER_00: Yeah, that's what he said.
- 5:42SPEAKER_00: So I called him up yesterday and just got the rundown.
- 5:46SPEAKER_00: So I feel like I know you a little bit.
- 5:49SPEAKER_00: Background check.
- 5:50SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 5:51SPEAKER_00: I feel like there won't be as many surprises and things.
- 5:54SPEAKER_00: So, yeah, so he told me a bunch of things.
- 5:57SPEAKER_00: Hopefully good.
- 5:58SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah.
- 5:59SPEAKER_00: First of all,
- 5:59SPEAKER_02: he said the one thing he,
- 6:01SPEAKER_00: like,
- 6:02SPEAKER_00: kept saying is,
- 6:04SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 6:05it was an overall great experience and it was a great
- 6:07experience because you
- 6:09SPEAKER_00: trusted them.
- 6:11SPEAKER_00: You trusted PA and Malta.
- 6:14SPEAKER_00: So,
- 6:14and he said that's kind of a theme in your workplace that you
- 6:20hire people that you
- 6:21SPEAKER_00: trust and you build trust with them and
- 6:25And they like to stay there and you reward them with trust and
- 6:29they reward you with
- 6:30SPEAKER_00: kind of loyalty in that way.
- 6:32SPEAKER_00: Is that true or is he just like making shit up?
- 6:38SPEAKER_01: No,
- 6:39SPEAKER_01: I'd actually like to think it's true because,
- 6:41SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 6:42SPEAKER_01: we've,
- 6:42SPEAKER_01: I think,
- 6:43SPEAKER_01: what,
- 6:44two years ago we had two of our staff members reach 10 years
- 6:48and that's when we hit
- 6:49SPEAKER_01: 10 years.
- 6:50SPEAKER_01: And then this year we had a gap, so we didn't have anyone last year.
- 6:54SPEAKER_01: And then this year we've got seven people hitting 10 years.
- 6:59SPEAKER_01: And...
- 7:00SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 7:01SPEAKER_01: whether it's PA and Lotta in terms of trusting,
- 7:04SPEAKER_01: like I've known them maybe over 10 years as well.
- 7:08And,
- 7:09you know,
- 7:09I reached out to them and was like,
- 7:12hey,
- 7:13I think I'm ready to do a book.
- 7:14SPEAKER_01: And I couldn't think of anyone better than you guys to do it with.
- 7:18it's not because I wanted to control the situation or the,
- 7:21or the creativity or whatever.
- 7:22SPEAKER_01: It's because I trusted them to do, to do what they're really good at.
- 7:27SPEAKER_01: And, you know, to do the book justice with the best intentions.
- 7:32SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 7:32SPEAKER_00: And right.
- 7:33SPEAKER_00: No,
- 7:33SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 7:34SPEAKER_00: that's how I like to work too with,
- 7:35SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 7:36I've worked on a lot of cookbooks at this point and I think it
- 7:40only works if you
- 7:41SPEAKER_00: trust each other and you're kind of,
- 7:45open to each other but you give each other space to do what you
- 7:49know the other can
- 7:51do yeah i think with those guys you you have to kind of let the
- 7:55freak fly i guess i
- 7:57don't know like uh because they are so creative and they are
- 8:00they are so brilliant
- 8:03yeah and look i think the thing is it's like when i look at
- 8:06what they do i have no
- 8:08SPEAKER_01: fucking idea what they do
- 8:10Right,
- 8:11I see,
- 8:11or I hear them talking about stuff,
- 8:15and then you see an end result,
- 8:17right?
- 8:17SPEAKER_01: But you don't understand,
- 8:18SPEAKER_01: or I don't,
- 8:20SPEAKER_01: how it goes from A to B.
- 8:21SPEAKER_01: And I think,
- 8:23SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 8:23SPEAKER_01: instead of me trying to micromanage that,
- 8:26SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 8:27SPEAKER_01: the road from A to B,
- 8:29SPEAKER_01: I'm just like,
- 8:30SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 8:31SPEAKER_01: this is what you guys are really good at.
- 8:34SPEAKER_01: Let you guys be really good at, and let's see the result.
- 8:38SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 8:39SPEAKER_01: luckily they're very fucking good at what they do and we're very,
- 8:44SPEAKER_01: very happy with the book.
- 8:46Yeah,
- 8:46no,
- 8:47it's really beautiful and it's very non-traditional too,
- 8:53which I love.
- 8:53SPEAKER_00: There's so many cookbooks that just like,
- 8:55SPEAKER_00: especially restaurant cookbooks,
- 8:57SPEAKER_00: they're just the same shit all the time,
- 9:00SPEAKER_00: the same kind of format of...
- 9:03SPEAKER_00: And they're boring,
- 9:03SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 9:04SPEAKER_00: even with like beautiful photos and nice paper,
- 9:06SPEAKER_00: they become...
- 9:08boring very easily and you know you buy them you put them on
- 9:11your shelf and they
- 9:11look good but you never open them you never like read anything
- 9:17so i mean it's hard
- 9:19yeah i was about to say the same it seems to have a different
- 9:24balance between
- 9:27SPEAKER_03: talking about the history of the restaurant,
- 9:29SPEAKER_03: your personal journey,
- 9:31SPEAKER_03: and it focuses on the technique and the process,
- 9:34and I think through trying to define what the nature of the
- 9:39work is and why,
- 9:41SPEAKER_03: and then the recipes.
- 9:43SPEAKER_03: But the recipes are not the center of everything.
- 9:46SPEAKER_03: It's like, yeah, we'll get there.
- 9:47But before that,
- 9:48there is all this,
- 9:49which is actually what the work is,
- 9:52right?
- 9:52SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah.
- 9:53SPEAKER_03: So yeah, that balance is cool.
- 9:56I think that was actually the very first conversation that we
- 9:59had when we were
- 10:00SPEAKER_01: discussing it as well.
- 10:01SPEAKER_01: It's like we don't want to do another cookbook,
- 10:05SPEAKER_01: like a repetitive formula cookbook that just,
- 10:08SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 10:09SPEAKER_01: here it is,
- 10:09SPEAKER_01: bang,
- 10:09SPEAKER_01: bang,
- 10:10SPEAKER_01: bang.
- 10:11SPEAKER_01: And I think coming back to the recipes,
- 10:13SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 10:13SPEAKER_01: we didn't want to do them or I didn't want to do them,
- 10:16SPEAKER_01: they didn't want to do them and,
- 10:18SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 10:18SPEAKER_01: a little bit further down the track.
- 10:21SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 10:21SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 10:22SPEAKER_01: We succumbed and we're like, no, we need to do them.
- 10:25SPEAKER_01: We're like, fine, but we're going to do it on our terms.
- 10:30SPEAKER_01: These are our terms for the recipes.
- 10:32SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 10:33SPEAKER_00: I wanted to talk about that too.
- 10:34That's one of the things you said is like the first thing you
- 10:37guys agreed on was no recipes,
- 10:39SPEAKER_00: but at the end it was like,
- 10:40SPEAKER_00: okay,
- 10:40SPEAKER_00: okay,
- 10:40SPEAKER_00: we have to do recipes.
- 10:42SPEAKER_00: But then it's like,
- 10:45SPEAKER_00: but we're not going to make them so easy that,
- 10:47SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 10:47SPEAKER_00: everyone in,
- 10:49SPEAKER_00: in fucking Kansas city is,
- 10:51SPEAKER_00: can,
- 10:52SPEAKER_00: can make them,
- 10:53SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 10:53SPEAKER_00: just by going to the supermarket,
- 10:54SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 10:55SPEAKER_00: it's,
- 10:55SPEAKER_00: or just using what you have in your pantry.
- 10:58It's,
- 10:58you know,
- 10:58some of the recipes have like 40 portions and things like that.
- 11:02SPEAKER_00: You know, they're just what they are at the restaurant.
- 11:04It's not for,
- 11:06for,
- 11:07for everyone and you just kind of have to figure it out.
- 11:10yeah look i i think the thing was like i i hear i or i've heard
- 11:15so many nightmares
- 11:16about recipe testing and trying to get everything accurate and
- 11:20you know did did the
- 11:21chef leave out the magical ingredient to what makes it special
- 11:26and and i think you
- 11:28know i looked at it and was like look these are the recipes we
- 11:31use every single day
- 11:32you know we've got different equipment different products
- 11:34different this but
- 11:37SPEAKER_01: These are the recipes we use every single day in the restaurant.
- 11:40SPEAKER_01: This works with the scaling and everything.
- 11:43It might not work for your dinner party for two people when
- 11:46you're trying to
- 11:47impress your girlfriend or your fiance or your wife or whoever
- 11:49it might be.
- 11:50SPEAKER_01: This is for, you know, this is what we do.
- 11:54If you want to try and scale it and replicate and have a bit of fun,
- 11:57go nuts.
- 11:58SPEAKER_01: Go nuts and enjoy.
- 11:59SPEAKER_00: Yeah, yeah.
- 12:00SPEAKER_00: And from what I understand, P.A.
- 12:02SPEAKER_00: and Lotta tested their recipes on a little hibachi in Sweden.
- 12:08SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 12:10SPEAKER_01: Did you see the photo the other day?
- 12:12SPEAKER_01: No, no.
- 12:12SPEAKER_01: Actually,
- 12:14SPEAKER_01: that's one thing that made me,
- 12:17SPEAKER_01: I guess,
- 12:17super happy to have done the book and also to have worked with
- 12:21them as well because
- 12:23SPEAKER_01: –
- 12:24SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 12:24SPEAKER_01: they were genuinely interested in what we were doing,
- 12:29SPEAKER_01: why we were doing it,
- 12:30SPEAKER_01: and how we were doing it.
- 12:32SPEAKER_01: And to see them go away,
- 12:34SPEAKER_01: or especially PA on the hibachi,
- 12:36to go away and try different techniques that we've done and
- 12:40recipes that we've done,
- 12:41SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 12:42SPEAKER_01: that's fucking sick.
- 12:44SPEAKER_01: That's really cool.
- 12:45SPEAKER_00: You know,
- 12:45SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 12:46SPEAKER_00: it has to be hard,
- 12:46SPEAKER_00: too,
- 12:47to make recipes when just the control of the fire is so attuned
- 12:52to your specific restaurant.
- 12:53SPEAKER_00: Like, how can you translate that, you know, like in a standard format?
- 13:00SPEAKER_00: I mean, it wouldn't even make sense if you tried, really.
- 13:03SPEAKER_01: It's hard.
- 13:04SPEAKER_01: Like,
- 13:04SPEAKER_01: we've done a lot of pop-ups and events,
- 13:07SPEAKER_01: and we've got to use makeshift equipment and stuff,
- 13:10SPEAKER_01: and it's hard.
- 13:12SPEAKER_01: And even when I cook at home, I've got like a –
- 13:14kamado joe and you know to to do the things that we do in the
- 13:19restaurant and get
- 13:21that sort of you know that perfection that we want it's just so
- 13:24hard at home yeah
- 13:26yeah i mean but so much of it is intuition you know and just
- 13:29like knowing when
- 13:31knowing heat yes yeah it's something that you know you just
- 13:36learn and people go how
- 13:38do you how do you teach that and it's like you can't teach it
- 13:41it takes time
- 13:43SPEAKER_01: And it's really that, you know, you do it over and over again.
- 13:46SPEAKER_01: You see the same piece of steak all the time.
- 13:49And you can see the subtle changes that,
- 13:52you know,
- 13:52it looks different,
- 13:53feels different.
- 13:54SPEAKER_01: And you just know that it's right.
- 13:56SPEAKER_01: And,
- 13:57SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 13:57you know the heat that you've got to cook on and whether it's
- 14:00hot enough and how
- 14:01SPEAKER_01: you need to manage it and all those little details that,
- 14:05SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 14:07SPEAKER_01: there's no textbook.
- 14:08SPEAKER_01: It's just time and training and repetition.
- 14:13SPEAKER_03: Yeah,
- 14:14SPEAKER_03: and I'm curious,
- 14:15what would you say has been the process to get to this taken
- 14:20barbecue and what you
- 14:21SPEAKER_03: call contemporary barbecue?
- 14:24SPEAKER_03: And for people that haven't seen the book, how does that look like?
- 14:30SPEAKER_01: How do we get to the point where we are?
- 14:33SPEAKER_03: Yeah, because you mentioned training.
- 14:37SPEAKER_03: What are the steps in retrospective that took you to...
- 14:44SPEAKER_03: to that technique.
- 14:46SPEAKER_01: In terms of,
- 14:47SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 14:48SPEAKER_01: my,
- 14:48SPEAKER_01: like growing up in Australia,
- 14:50SPEAKER_01: and I'm sorry,
- 14:51SPEAKER_01: I will make this a little bit convoluted,
- 14:53SPEAKER_01: but growing up in Australia,
- 14:55SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 14:55SPEAKER_01: there's not a huge history of tradition in terms of food.
- 15:02And what you actually get is you get this huge melting pot of
- 15:05all these different
- 15:06cultures and ethnicities in Australia that have bastardised
- 15:10their traditions and
- 15:12SPEAKER_01: made them slightly Australian.
- 15:15SPEAKER_01: So you've got this...
- 15:18sense of like ability to not conform to strict tradition i
- 15:23think that's that's a
- 15:24really important part of it and then you know traveling all
- 15:28over the world and
- 15:28seeing what everyone else does and how amazing you know whether
- 15:32you're in japan or
- 15:33china or you know the philippines or scandinavia in in denmark
- 15:38or spain or france
- 15:40or or in south america or wherever you are there's so many
- 15:44incredible flavors
- 15:48to sort of be able to capture what I like about those flavors
- 15:54and essentially
- 15:55SPEAKER_01: bastardize them to what,
- 15:59SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 15:59SPEAKER_01: I think would be nice.
- 16:03SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 16:03SPEAKER_01: it's quite liberating and it means we don't have to be like,
- 16:07SPEAKER_01: oh,
- 16:07SPEAKER_01: this has to be like this and this has to be like this.
- 16:10SPEAKER_01: We can gel everything together and just have a lot of fun with it.
- 16:15SPEAKER_01: And so...
- 16:17SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 16:17SPEAKER_01: modern barbecue is that,
- 16:19SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 16:19SPEAKER_01: everyone's got barbecue in their history and their tradition,
- 16:23SPEAKER_01: right?
- 16:23SPEAKER_01: Because that's how we all started cooking.
- 16:26but how we use it is all very different and the flavors that we
- 16:30we do are all very
- 16:31different and to bring them all back together is just you know
- 16:36that that is the
- 16:37future of modern barbecues what's next what's what's cool what
- 16:41flavor do you like
- 16:42how can we pair it being in singapore we can get products from
- 16:45all over the world
- 16:46and combine different flavors at any time we want and we don't
- 16:50have that stigma of
- 16:52tradition and being like this has to be with this and done like
- 16:55this it's like you
- 16:56know what it we just want to make it tasty and you know that's
- 17:01it that's our rule
- 17:02right cook it over wood and make it tasty and so over time
- 17:07you're able to build
- 17:07that out with like coming back to the staff by teaching them
- 17:13training them and then
- 17:14SPEAKER_01: learning to trust their intuition
- 17:17to be able to cook like impeccably over long services and come
- 17:22up and create new
- 17:22SPEAKER_01: dishes and stuff that will stand down the test of time.
- 17:28So what I find interesting of this whole kind of modern
- 17:31barbecue concept that's,
- 17:33SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 17:33SPEAKER_00: it's been going on for like 20 years or so,
- 17:36SPEAKER_00: I guess,
- 17:36SPEAKER_00: in some form or another,
- 17:38SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 17:39SPEAKER_00: it's like you said,
- 17:41SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 17:41SPEAKER_00: we've all,
- 17:43SPEAKER_00: every culture kind of started by cooking over fire.
- 17:48SPEAKER_00: But this modern element to it,
- 17:50SPEAKER_00: it's like,
- 17:51SPEAKER_00: why did it get so,
- 17:53SPEAKER_00: why did we get so disconnected from that?
- 17:54SPEAKER_00: You know, just cooking over fires.
- 17:56SPEAKER_00: Is the fact that it's kind of resurging now,
- 17:59SPEAKER_00: is it some kind of rebellion against,
- 18:01SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 18:02SPEAKER_00: French and Spanish and very,
- 18:04SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 18:04SPEAKER_00: intricate fine dining?
- 18:06SPEAKER_00: Is that why,
- 18:07SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 18:08SPEAKER_00: this very kind of primal cooking is kind of finding its way into,
- 18:12SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 18:13SPEAKER_00: modern kitchens?
- 18:16SPEAKER_01: I definitely – I wouldn't like to say it's a rebellion.
- 18:19SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 18:22SPEAKER_01: But I think the reason – a big part of the reason why it's not done in,
- 18:25SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 18:26SPEAKER_01: a lot of classical kitchens is it's fucking hard work.
- 18:31SPEAKER_01: It's like it's, you know, extra work, extra steps.
- 18:37I remember in our old kitchen,
- 18:39we could never keep it clean because there's ash –
- 18:45going everywhere and in those perfect kitchens that was a
- 18:50massive liability right
- 18:53and so i think you know one part of is yes it's not a rebellion
- 18:57it's just very hard
- 18:57work so you've got to dedicate a lot of resources to doing that
- 19:02one essentially one
- 19:03SPEAKER_01: job or that one dish in a you know iron kitchen
- 19:07SPEAKER_01: So it does make sense.
- 19:08SPEAKER_01: But if you revolve your whole restaurant around it,
- 19:11you get some sort of economies of scale that you can operate a
- 19:15business out of.
- 19:16I think the other thing is I'm pretty sure Paris specifically
- 19:21is one of the hardest
- 19:22SPEAKER_01: places in the world to have live fire.
- 19:24SPEAKER_00: Yeah, because of regulations or something?
- 19:27SPEAKER_01: Yeah, because of regulations.
- 19:29SPEAKER_01: And also in the UK for a long time before the water mist filtration hoods
- 19:36SPEAKER_01: came into it, it was very, very hard for live fire as well.
- 19:41SPEAKER_01: So I think that's two reasons why it wasn't done before.
- 19:47And I think one of the reasons why it's being done more so now
- 19:54is because a lot of
- 19:55SPEAKER_01: people feel that the end result justifies the hard work.
- 20:01SPEAKER_01: And, you know, for me,
- 20:04it's you know fire has that little bit of magic in it that you
- 20:09know can never be
- 20:10replicated and you can't explain it why you can't put you know
- 20:15something like a few
- 20:16drops or whatever and it'll make it taste the same the fire
- 20:19live fire does
- 20:20something magic to food that people just find intrinsically
- 20:25delicious and i think
- 20:28SPEAKER_01: people look at that and go actually that makes fucking sense let's
- 20:35SPEAKER_01: let's cook like this for our guests because they will find it delicious.
- 20:40SPEAKER_00: I think it's the inconsistency of it sometimes makes food taste good.
- 20:47SPEAKER_00: Like, cooking meat sous vide is so fucking boring.
- 20:51SPEAKER_00: You know, it might have the perfect, you know, texture throughout, but...
- 20:57SPEAKER_00: It's just so boring.
- 20:59SPEAKER_00: It's just the same every time.
- 21:02Sometimes that little bit of char or fat in the wrong way just
- 21:08tastes so good.
- 21:09SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 21:10SPEAKER_00: Inconsistency.
- 21:11I think it's so underrated in all these kitchens that we've
- 21:15been trained to just
- 21:17SPEAKER_00: think perfection is uniformity for so long.
- 21:23SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 21:23SPEAKER_01: No, I 100% agree.
- 21:23SPEAKER_01: I think...
- 21:27SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 21:27SPEAKER_01: the first thing that sprang to mind when you said that was,
- 21:32SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 21:32SPEAKER_01: when you cook whole fish on the bone.
- 21:34SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 21:35SPEAKER_01: And,
- 21:35SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 21:35SPEAKER_01: in the traditional fine dining kitchens,
- 21:38SPEAKER_01: you'd never,
- 21:39SPEAKER_01: ever comprehend serving,
- 21:41SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 21:41SPEAKER_01: the shoulder and the tail at the same time because you can't cook them.
- 21:46SPEAKER_01: You can't cook them two feet at the same time.
- 21:48SPEAKER_01: It just doesn't work right.
- 21:52But when you cook a whole fish,
- 21:53okay,
- 21:54yes,
- 21:54the tail will be more cooked than...
- 21:57SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 21:57SPEAKER_01: the shoulder bit,
- 21:59SPEAKER_01: but when you eat the whole fish,
- 22:01actually the tail's delicious cooked like that and the
- 22:04shoulders delicious cooked
- 22:06SPEAKER_01: like that.
- 22:06SPEAKER_01: And it's like that process of,
- 22:08SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 22:08the changes and the nuances in like the fat and the flavor and
- 22:11the texture and the
- 22:12SPEAKER_01: charred bits is,
- 22:14SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 22:15SPEAKER_01: perfectly imperfect.
- 22:17SPEAKER_00: Perfectly perfect.
- 22:19SPEAKER_00: That's perfect.
- 22:20SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 22:26There is a section in the book in which you talk about how you
- 22:31work with your staff
- 22:33SPEAKER_03: and a full staff takeover.
- 22:36SPEAKER_03: And yeah,
- 22:37I'm curious about that approach to your team and why it's so
- 22:43important to be fully
- 22:46SPEAKER_03: in depth with them too.
- 22:49So the process is intense,
- 22:50the technique is intense,
- 22:51but also your work with them.
- 22:53SPEAKER_03: Can you talk a little bit about that?
- 22:56Yeah,
- 22:56look,
- 22:57I think it's – there's a couple of things for the staff takeover.
- 23:01SPEAKER_01: Number one,
- 23:01SPEAKER_01: it's actually the only time I ever eat in the restaurant,
- 23:04SPEAKER_01: so it's one of my favourite moments of the year.
- 23:09SPEAKER_01: And the second thing is it gives the team so much value and,
- 23:18SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 23:19it forces them to do things that they thought they couldn't do
- 23:22or they weren't
- 23:23SPEAKER_01: ready for and –
- 23:26SPEAKER_01: When they go through the actual process of sitting down,
- 23:29SPEAKER_01: thinking about a dish,
- 23:32SPEAKER_01: discussing the dish,
- 23:33SPEAKER_01: doing a first draft and realising,
- 23:36SPEAKER_01: fuck,
- 23:36SPEAKER_01: actually,
- 23:37SPEAKER_01: I'm quite a way away from where I want it to be.
- 23:40SPEAKER_01: And then over the subsequent weeks or months,
- 23:44refining that and adjusting and changing and then ending up
- 23:48with a product that
- 23:50SPEAKER_01: they're very happy with and then cooking for their family and friends...
- 23:55SPEAKER_01: is to give them that opportunity.
- 23:58SPEAKER_01: I think twofold.
- 23:59SPEAKER_01: One, it scares the hell out of them because it's their food.
- 24:03SPEAKER_01: It's not my food.
- 24:05SPEAKER_01: They just cook my food and I deal with the consequences.
- 24:08SPEAKER_01: But in this case, they get to deal with the pros and the cons of it.
- 24:12SPEAKER_01: So it fills them, gives them that nervous energy.
- 24:16And then when they realize they've created something amazing
- 24:20and their family and
- 24:21SPEAKER_01: their friends are super proud of them and enjoyed it,
- 24:25SPEAKER_01: it fills them with this belief that they can do amazing things.
- 24:30SPEAKER_01: And you see the teamwork among – because now we've got a lot bigger.
- 24:34SPEAKER_01: We've got more staff.
- 24:35SPEAKER_01: So we combine the –
- 24:37SPEAKER_01: the dishes between members and they get to work with each other.
- 24:41SPEAKER_01: So they need to learn teamwork and compromise and sourcing and ideas.
- 24:46SPEAKER_01: And it's just,
- 24:47SPEAKER_01: it's,
- 24:48SPEAKER_01: it's one of the best things we do and something that we,
- 24:51SPEAKER_01: everyone looks forward to describe it being a huge amount of hard work.
- 24:56SPEAKER_01: And it's something I like.
- 24:57SPEAKER_01: It's the one time I eat in the restaurant every year.
- 24:58SPEAKER_01: It's the only time.
- 25:02SPEAKER_00: You staged at Noma.
- 25:03SPEAKER_00: Did you ever, um, take part in those, um,
- 25:06SPEAKER_00: you know, not the staff takeovers, but the, uh, what is it called?
- 25:09SPEAKER_01: Like Saturday night projects.
- 25:13SPEAKER_01: I did it.
- 25:14SPEAKER_01: It was a disaster.
- 25:16SPEAKER_01: It wasn't a disaster.
- 25:17SPEAKER_01: It was a potato and rhubarb.
- 25:20SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 25:22SPEAKER_01: And I can,
- 25:22SPEAKER_01: I can't remember exactly,
- 25:24SPEAKER_01: exactly what the dish was,
- 25:25SPEAKER_01: but I think,
- 25:26SPEAKER_01: I think we,
- 25:27SPEAKER_01: I,
- 25:27SPEAKER_01: well,
- 25:28SPEAKER_01: I did it because Renee was like,
- 25:31SPEAKER_01: Oh,
- 25:31SPEAKER_01: I want to work on a dessert.
- 25:33SPEAKER_01: There's potato and rhubarb.
- 25:35SPEAKER_01: or something, maybe a passing comment from him.
- 25:38SPEAKER_01: And I was like, you know what, I'm going to give this to God.
- 25:39SPEAKER_01: I'm going to do this as my project.
- 25:42SPEAKER_01: And it's just like, you know, the practices went all right.
- 25:45SPEAKER_01: It was an okay dish.
- 25:47SPEAKER_01: And then you put it up at like 2 a.m.
- 25:51SPEAKER_01: in the morning on Saturday after a big week.
- 25:54SPEAKER_01: And it's like something – and you've got to use a team to do it, right?
- 25:57SPEAKER_01: It's not just you cooking –
- 25:59everyone and you know some things don't turn out right and it's
- 26:02just you put it up
- 26:04and it gets critiqued in front of everyone yeah and you've
- 26:08you've got to you know
- 26:10your heart's on the line right it's like everything's all in
- 26:14and you've got to take
- 26:15the feedback and you listen to it and you know if it's good
- 26:19enough it'll evolve to
- 26:20your next step if it's not it you know it goes to the side and
- 26:23sell a v right but
- 26:25SPEAKER_01: that was a very very scary process
- 26:28SPEAKER_01: But a lot of fun.
- 26:29SPEAKER_00: I'm sure dreams have been crushed.
- 26:30SPEAKER_00: So what was the potato?
- 26:36SPEAKER_00: What did you do to the potato to make it kind of sweet?
- 26:40SPEAKER_01: I think we might have done,
- 26:41SPEAKER_01: there might have been like a sweet,
- 26:43SPEAKER_01: and it wasn't a sweet potato puree.
- 26:46SPEAKER_01: It was a sweetened potato.
- 26:52potato puree and then it had like a had like compressed rhubarb
- 26:57and a rhubarb
- 26:59granita and it had crispy potato chips for texture as well and
- 27:05but it was yeah it's
- 27:06just a yeah yeah and and i and i think i i think what was what
- 27:13i what i probably
- 27:14SPEAKER_01: big takeaway from that
- 27:16event was is that you know it's really important to recognize
- 27:21at the end of it that
- 27:23a dish is like meh and be able to move on and be like okay put
- 27:27it to one side even
- 27:28though I think I'm the messiah I'm not put it to one side and
- 27:31let's look at what
- 27:33might be good the next project but sometimes those things that
- 27:38come out of that you
- 27:39know maybe that dish didn't work as a whole but maybe a piece
- 27:43of it does you know
- 27:44SPEAKER_00: what I mean like
- 27:46SPEAKER_00: when I'm writing something,
- 27:47SPEAKER_00: I'm always like,
- 27:49I'm always having these like little beautiful bits of texts
- 27:52that don't exactly fit
- 27:54SPEAKER_00: with the whole thing,
- 27:57SPEAKER_00: but,
- 27:57SPEAKER_00: but they're there.
- 27:58SPEAKER_00: They're still there.
- 28:00SPEAKER_00: And I know it's,
- 28:02SPEAKER_00: it makes sense somewhere,
- 28:03SPEAKER_00: maybe not in this,
- 28:05SPEAKER_00: this particular story,
- 28:07SPEAKER_00: but maybe down the way,
- 28:09SPEAKER_00: down the way writing something else,
- 28:11SPEAKER_00: it kind of comes back and has a use of,
- 28:15SPEAKER_00: And, yeah, I love to save those little bits.
- 28:18SPEAKER_00: Sometimes, like in a document, sometimes just in my head.
- 28:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 28:23SPEAKER_00: Sometimes those, like, they just need time to work themselves out.
- 28:28SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 28:29SPEAKER_01: This one, I think, was a trash can.
- 28:35But I think,
- 28:37you know,
- 28:37the process of it and,
- 28:40you know,
- 28:40that whole thing about
- 28:42SPEAKER_01: You know, seeing what your team can do was the biggest lesson.
- 28:49SPEAKER_01: It was what can your team do?
- 28:51SPEAKER_01: Like, don't think it all has to be on one person.
- 28:54SPEAKER_01: Don't think that, you know, one person is one that leads everything.
- 28:58Look within your team and try and draw out what they can do and
- 29:03let them actually
- 29:04be the life and the force as much as you are to bring your food
- 29:09to the guests.
- 29:11SPEAKER_00: So is the setup kind of the same with your staff takeover?
- 29:14SPEAKER_00: Like it's in teams or the team helps every person?
- 29:18SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 29:21SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 29:21SPEAKER_01: Look, we're always a team.
- 29:24SPEAKER_01: And so basically,
- 29:25SPEAKER_01: essentially,
- 29:26SPEAKER_01: the process will be we'll split the team up into dishes or groups.
- 29:33SPEAKER_01: And we just sort of say, give us your ideas.
- 29:38And we're not even putting people into like snacks,
- 29:42starters,
- 29:42mains,
- 29:43desserts at this stage.
- 29:44It's just show us your ideas and talk us through your ideas and
- 29:48then let's go from there.
- 29:50And,
- 29:51you know,
- 29:51there's three or four senior staff that work on it with these guys.
- 29:55And we'll take their ideas and we'll try and flesh it out a
- 29:59little bit with them,
- 30:00SPEAKER_01: understand where it might fit.
- 30:02SPEAKER_01: And then we'll be like first drafts.
- 30:04SPEAKER_01: And then the first draft will come up and you'll be like,
- 30:07SPEAKER_01: okay,
- 30:07SPEAKER_01: where do we take it to go left,
- 30:09SPEAKER_01: right?
- 30:09SPEAKER_01: Is it perfect?
- 30:11SPEAKER_01: Should we put it here?
- 30:11SPEAKER_01: And then we go, where does this fit in the menu?
- 30:13SPEAKER_01: And then we have to make menu calls on how all this works.
- 30:18SPEAKER_01: And then,
- 30:19SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 30:19from there we'll refine maybe three or four more times
- 30:22depending on how keen they
- 30:24SPEAKER_01: are and how much work we think needs to happen.
- 30:28SPEAKER_01: And then it all comes together in a beautiful dinner.
- 30:34SPEAKER_01: And so,
- 30:34SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 30:35I've usually tasted each dish four or five times before I can
- 30:38sit down and eat,
- 30:40SPEAKER_01: but I still love it.
- 30:42SPEAKER_03: The bakery.
- 30:44SPEAKER_03: You mentioned something in the book about how in Australia,
- 30:48bakeries are part of the community and daily life and how
- 30:52important that is for you
- 30:55SPEAKER_03: growing up there.
- 30:56And I'm curious if the energy and the process in the bakery and
- 31:02techniques wise and
- 31:04flavors wise contrast with your main project or it follows the
- 31:09same principles or yeah,
- 31:11how they complement each other and how would you describe the
- 31:14bakery for people
- 31:15SPEAKER_03: that haven't been there?
- 31:18SPEAKER_01: Look,
- 31:18SPEAKER_01: I think one of the important things was when we first started,
- 31:23SPEAKER_01: we've always done our own baking and bakery.
- 31:27And my wife,
- 31:28Katrina,
- 31:28was the first one that sort of was working in that role for a time.
- 31:35And so it really followed out our ethos of,
- 31:38you know,
- 31:39we want to do it ourselves.
- 31:40SPEAKER_01: We want to have high quality.
- 31:42SPEAKER_01: We want it to look a certain way and we want to taste a certain way.
- 31:46SPEAKER_01: And, you know, as it evolved,
- 31:50SPEAKER_01: You know, it's very simple.
- 31:52SPEAKER_01: We want to do the best product.
- 31:55We want to make it super tasty and we want to have it at a
- 31:58reasonable price so that,
- 32:00SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 32:00SPEAKER_01: you can come once a week or twice a week.
- 32:03SPEAKER_01: You can come and pick up a loaf of bread.
- 32:05SPEAKER_01: You can pick up a special treat for a guest.
- 32:08And it's really,
- 32:09you know,
- 32:10number one,
- 32:11we want to keep that wood-fired element.
- 32:14SPEAKER_01: So, you know, when we actually opened a bakery,
- 32:17We got this Canadian oven designer or oven builder,
- 32:23wood-fired oven builder,
- 32:26to design it.
- 32:26SPEAKER_01: And because it was COVID, he couldn't come out and build it.
- 32:28SPEAKER_01: So we built it locally.
- 32:30But we built this huge wood-fired bread oven in our restaurant
- 32:34so that we could
- 32:35SPEAKER_01: have wood-fired bread as the heart and soul of the bakery.
- 32:40SPEAKER_01: And so we do,
- 32:42SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 32:42SPEAKER_01: it is an extension of what we do at the restaurant as opposed to,
- 32:46SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 32:47SPEAKER_01: a very different product to who we are and what we do.
- 32:51SPEAKER_03: Does humidity affect more the bakery?
- 32:54Because I saw that in the rolling of the donuts before they go
- 32:58to the customer
- 33:00SPEAKER_03: twice because of the sugar gets soaked.
- 33:04SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and I was, this must happen with a lot of processes, right?
- 33:08SPEAKER_01: Yeah, 100%.
- 33:09SPEAKER_01: The humidity is a nightmare.
- 33:13SPEAKER_01: If you've got things like meringues and stuff, they can't sit out.
- 33:17SPEAKER_01: If you've got things that are crispy, they don't stay crispy.
- 33:21SPEAKER_01: So we've got to, I guess, moderate our hopes and dreams to reality here.
- 33:30SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 33:32SPEAKER_01: Because,
- 33:32SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 33:33SPEAKER_01: we might go,
- 33:33SPEAKER_01: look,
- 33:34we would love to have like all these meringuey stuff and we
- 33:37love eating it when
- 33:38SPEAKER_01: we're in Europe or wherever it is.
- 33:41SPEAKER_01: But when you bring it to Singapore, it's soggy shit.
- 33:44SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
- 33:45SPEAKER_01: And you give up to a lot.
- 33:48SPEAKER_01: It's just not good.
- 33:49So,
- 33:50you know,
- 33:51you work to your strengths and avoid your weaknesses a little bit,
- 33:56like humidity.
- 33:59SPEAKER_00: One of the things I found fascinating when talking about PA,
- 34:02SPEAKER_00: he said that it's not like you can go to farms or anything.
- 34:07SPEAKER_00: Everything's imported.
- 34:10SPEAKER_00: There's no direct connection to the product.
- 34:16SPEAKER_00: Which is... No.
- 34:18SPEAKER_00: Which seems strange,
- 34:19SPEAKER_00: but I mean,
- 34:19SPEAKER_00: I guess like in New York,
- 34:21SPEAKER_00: it's mostly like that too,
- 34:24SPEAKER_00: with some exceptions,
- 34:25SPEAKER_00: obviously.
- 34:26SPEAKER_00: But another thing he said is that,
- 34:28SPEAKER_00: or maybe it was in the book,
- 34:29SPEAKER_00: that people in Singapore rarely eat at home.
- 34:32SPEAKER_00: Is that true?
- 34:34SPEAKER_01: Yes.
- 34:35SPEAKER_00: Really?
- 34:36SPEAKER_00: They go out for every meal?
- 34:37Some families will go out for every,
- 34:39not yet,
- 34:40pretty much every single meal.
- 34:42SPEAKER_01: And you have the,
- 34:43SPEAKER_01: you have these focus centers,
- 34:44SPEAKER_01: which,
- 34:45SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 34:45SPEAKER_01: might be in the bottom of your apartment.
- 34:48And so you walk down and you've got a variety of,
- 34:52and I'm talking cheap,
- 34:53you know,
- 34:53like,
- 34:55SPEAKER_01: $3, $4 for a breakfast or a lunch, maybe $7 or $8 for a dinner.
- 35:02SPEAKER_01: I don't know where you can cook at home.
- 35:04SPEAKER_01: I can't cook at home for that price.
- 35:07SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 35:07SPEAKER_00: I mean, it's super expensive there, right?
- 35:09SPEAKER_00: Singapore is really expensive, like everything, right?
- 35:14Maybe not as much as America,
- 35:15but it is super expensive,
- 35:19especially in New York,
- 35:20maybe.
- 35:21SPEAKER_01: But yeah, it's very expensive.
- 35:24SPEAKER_01: So these hawker centres are everywhere.
- 35:27SPEAKER_01: So the habit of eating out is very normal.
- 35:31SPEAKER_01: They don't have a lot of room in their houses.
- 35:33So,
- 35:33you know,
- 35:34when we first moved here,
- 35:35our accommodation,
- 35:36there was no oven.
- 35:40SPEAKER_01: There's no oven.
- 35:40SPEAKER_01: There was like a tiny little gas grill and that was it.
- 35:44SPEAKER_01: And so it made a lot more sense for us to,
- 35:47SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 35:47SPEAKER_01: you go downstairs,
- 35:48you have like congee or you might have pratha one morning and
- 35:52then you have curry
- 35:53SPEAKER_01: and fishbowl soup and noodles and chicken rice.
- 35:57SPEAKER_01: I mean, you've got so many options that you almost can't get bored.
- 36:02SPEAKER_00: But doesn't it get exhausting to eat like that all the time?
- 36:06SPEAKER_00: Like, I don't know.
- 36:08SPEAKER_00: Maybe it's because like now I kind of live in the countryside, but...
- 36:11Thinking like to go get food for me now is like,
- 36:15I have to go drive somewhere.
- 36:16SPEAKER_03: But it's right there, right?
- 36:18SPEAKER_03: It feels like it's close to you.
- 36:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 36:22SPEAKER_01: So imagine having a food hall on your doorstep.
- 36:26SPEAKER_01: that was cheaper than you could cook at home for.
- 36:27SPEAKER_01: Right.
- 36:28SPEAKER_01: And you didn't have like,
- 36:30SPEAKER_01: like a big house and you know,
- 36:33SPEAKER_01: lots of cooking facilities and three fridges and you know,
- 36:37SPEAKER_01: whatever else and a big dining table.
- 36:39SPEAKER_01: It's like you, you're in a small little apartment.
- 36:42SPEAKER_01: The kitchen's really small.
- 36:43SPEAKER_01: You're trying to cook for everyone,
- 36:45SPEAKER_01: but actually you can just go downstairs,
- 36:47SPEAKER_01: have essentially a professional cook for you and it's cheap.
- 36:53SPEAKER_03: And because it happens every day,
- 36:55SPEAKER_03: there is no this protocol and,
- 36:57SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 36:58SPEAKER_03: whole thing about...
- 36:59So I think it makes it just like an extension of your dining
- 37:03room or something.
- 37:04SPEAKER_01: Exactly.
- 37:05SPEAKER_01: And you see familiar faces and friends down there.
- 37:08SPEAKER_01: It's very communal.
- 37:09SPEAKER_01: It's nice.
- 37:11SPEAKER_02: Okay.
- 37:14SPEAKER_01: But the farm thing is an issue.
- 37:16SPEAKER_01: Not an issue.
- 37:16SPEAKER_01: It's just, yeah, a bit of a gut-sopping.
- 37:19SPEAKER_01: I guess those two questions, right?
- 37:21SPEAKER_00: No, I mean, I guess it's something you have to adjust to.
- 37:25But it's just like it's such a big part of most modern
- 37:30restaurants these days is,
- 37:31SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 37:32SPEAKER_00: this like talking about this,
- 37:33SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 37:34SPEAKER_00: direct connection to the farmer and blah,
- 37:37SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 37:37SPEAKER_00: blah,
- 37:37SPEAKER_00: even when,
- 37:38SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 37:38SPEAKER_00: half the time it's bullshit.
- 37:39But still,
- 37:40like,
- 37:40you know,
- 37:41it's like it's still part of the modern restaurant story,
- 37:48you know.
- 37:49SPEAKER_00: But yeah, you could never have that.
- 37:51SPEAKER_00: It's just like, I mean, it just doesn't exist at all, right?
- 37:55SPEAKER_00: Is there a single farm in Singapore or?
- 37:57SPEAKER_01: Yeah, look, there are farms.
- 38:01SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 38:02SPEAKER_01: Like there's, you know, they've got vertical farms.
- 38:05SPEAKER_01: Right, right.
- 38:06SPEAKER_01: And, you know, there's a goat farm where they produce milk.
- 38:10SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 38:11SPEAKER_01: And they've got a few things, but it's...
- 38:16SPEAKER_01: It's not ideal.
- 38:17It's not like if you're in a country and you've got a farmer
- 38:21down the road,
- 38:21SPEAKER_01: but the climate's perfect,
- 38:23SPEAKER_01: the terroir is perfect,
- 38:24SPEAKER_01: their farming practices are perfect.
- 38:27SPEAKER_01: We don't have that here.
- 38:29SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 38:30There's no way of Singapore sustaining itself through,
- 38:34you know,
- 38:34the land that it has.
- 38:35SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 38:36SPEAKER_00: No, it's impossible.
- 38:38SPEAKER_00: No.
- 38:39SPEAKER_00: Like, what about fishing?
- 38:41SPEAKER_01: Fishing, but it's warm water fish.
- 38:44SPEAKER_01: So it's not, again, it's not the quality always that's desired, right?
- 38:49SPEAKER_01: It's like, you know, if you've got an option between a Japanese...
- 38:54SPEAKER_01: or Japan area caught fish,
- 38:57SPEAKER_01: super cold waters,
- 38:59SPEAKER_01: perfect storage techniques,
- 39:01SPEAKER_01: perfect killing techniques,
- 39:04SPEAKER_01: versus warm water fish that isn't handled very well,
- 39:09SPEAKER_01: not killed properly,
- 39:12SPEAKER_01: and just gets chucked on a slab of dirty ice somewhere.
- 39:17SPEAKER_01: What's your choice gonna be as a chef, let alone a consumer?
- 39:22SPEAKER_00: But if those things were improved, maybe.
- 39:25SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 39:26SPEAKER_00: Because, I mean, there is... Still warm water.
- 39:28SPEAKER_00: Yeah, but you could still... There are still good fish in warm water.
- 39:31SPEAKER_00: Julie's from Colombia.
- 39:33SPEAKER_00: From the coast of Colombia, it's tropical and warm.
- 39:36SPEAKER_01: The climate's probably not different.
- 39:38SPEAKER_01: Okay,
- 39:38SPEAKER_01: so...
- 39:40SPEAKER_01: Juliana,
- 39:40SPEAKER_01: correct me if I'm wrong,
- 39:41SPEAKER_01: but in Colombia,
- 39:42SPEAKER_01: don't you have the...
- 39:44SPEAKER_01: You actually have the two currents that meet?
- 39:46No,
- 39:46no,
- 39:47that's...
- 39:47And you've got the cold water currents and the warm water.
- 39:50SPEAKER_00: On the Pacific side.
- 39:50SPEAKER_01: And actually, they produce some of the...
- 39:52SPEAKER_00: That's the Pacific side.
- 39:53SPEAKER_00: The Pacific side, yes.
- 39:55SPEAKER_03: But yeah, I guess... Yeah, the Atlantic is the Atlantic, I think.
- 39:58SPEAKER_00: Yeah, the Pacific, you do have access to different things.
- 40:02But still,
- 40:02like on the coast of,
- 40:04you know,
- 40:05Caribbean coast,
- 40:06it's more and more.
- 40:07SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 40:08SPEAKER_00: But yeah,
- 40:09SPEAKER_00: speaking of Colombia,
- 40:10SPEAKER_00: I don't know how that happened,
- 40:11SPEAKER_00: but you mentioned Colombia in the book.
- 40:14SPEAKER_00: Oh, yeah.
- 40:14SPEAKER_02: I was like, oh, fuck.
- 40:16actually i didn't pick up that segue but nice segue i mean i'm
- 40:22glad you got your
- 40:24your devices back at least yes yeah it's hilarious so in the
- 40:29book and i love these
- 40:30like there's these like comic comic book style like history
- 40:34yeah or graphic novel
- 40:35style like history uh of of of your past and like one of one of
- 40:41the events is like
- 40:42SPEAKER_00: you're in medellin and uh
- 40:44SPEAKER_00: you get your phone robbed or is that right?
- 40:45SPEAKER_00: You're like, uh, you and your wife.
- 40:48SPEAKER_01: No.
- 40:48SPEAKER_01: So yeah.
- 40:50SPEAKER_01: So me and my wife, my now wife.
- 40:53SPEAKER_01: Yes.
- 40:53So we were going to a food market or I thought I was taking a
- 40:57food market and you know,
- 40:59SPEAKER_01: I think we had like,
- 41:00SPEAKER_01: I think I took like 20 bucks worth of,
- 41:03colombian money on me and we left our phones at home and like
- 41:08so we had nothing and
- 41:10you know we're walking up this street where i'm like yeah i'm
- 41:13pretty sure we got
- 41:14this way uh and saw a couple of kids roll up and i'm just like
- 41:18i said to my wife
- 41:19SPEAKER_01: i'm like oh here we go this is uh
- 41:23SPEAKER_01: We've talked about this a lot.
- 41:24SPEAKER_01: It's finally happening.
- 41:26SPEAKER_01: And it happened.
- 41:28SPEAKER_01: They pulled knives on us.
- 41:29SPEAKER_01: They separated us.
- 41:31SPEAKER_01: They told us to hand over everything because we didn't have anything.
- 41:34SPEAKER_01: I think they got super frustrated.
- 41:36SPEAKER_01: And then the next thing we know, there's this guy rolling out.
- 41:39SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 41:41SPEAKER_01: Basically, like, but he could see it was like I emptied my pockets.
- 41:45SPEAKER_01: You know, I didn't have anything.
- 41:48SPEAKER_01: There was really nothing to give.
- 41:50SPEAKER_01: And then next thing, we'd just been separated.
- 41:54My wife was maybe five meters away from me and I was like
- 41:58getting to the point
- 41:58SPEAKER_01: where I'm like,
- 42:00SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 42:01something's going to give because if they go any further or
- 42:04something happens,
- 42:05SPEAKER_01: it's,
- 42:06SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 42:06SPEAKER_01: there's no coming back.
- 42:07SPEAKER_01: So it's going to be fight or flight in about three seconds.
- 42:11And before I knew it,
- 42:12this guy rolls out of the bushes and starts shooting.
- 42:18at us i saw them and no it's like it's like community police oh
- 42:27my god you know
- 42:30right yeah that's a nice name for it yeah it's like community
- 42:35police it's the
- 42:36SPEAKER_00: neighborhood watch kind of thing like but it's like the armed okay yeah
- 42:42SPEAKER_01: And they just started shooting.
- 42:44SPEAKER_01: And me and my wife are like, what's going on?
- 42:47SPEAKER_01: Like, this is nuts.
- 42:49SPEAKER_01: And these guys just fled.
- 42:51SPEAKER_01: And anyway,
- 42:52SPEAKER_01: then this car pulls up,
- 42:54SPEAKER_01: this taxi,
- 42:55SPEAKER_01: this lady gets out of it,
- 42:56SPEAKER_01: literally hunts down one of these kids.
- 42:59SPEAKER_01: collars him, brings him back and was like, give them their phones back.
- 43:04SPEAKER_01: And he's like, he pulls out this stack of phones.
- 43:07SPEAKER_01: So he's obviously been doing it a while.
- 43:09SPEAKER_01: And we're just like, they're not our phones.
- 43:11SPEAKER_01: I don't want their phones.
- 43:13SPEAKER_02: They're not our phones.
- 43:15SPEAKER_01: We don't need them.
- 43:16SPEAKER_01: Just go.
- 43:17And anyway,
- 43:17they put us in a taxi and we went back to the hostel where we
- 43:22were staying.
- 43:23And there was a football game,
- 43:24like literally down the road from where we were staying.
- 43:27SPEAKER_01: And so we popped over to a bar because we were,
- 43:31SPEAKER_01: especially the missus,
- 43:31SPEAKER_01: was pretty shaken by the whole thing,
- 43:34SPEAKER_01: drinking tequilas.
- 43:34SPEAKER_01: Then they shut the doors.
- 43:35SPEAKER_01: I'm like, what are you shutting the doors for?
- 43:39SPEAKER_01: Like, she's already panicking, right?
- 43:40SPEAKER_01: She's already been upset.
- 43:42SPEAKER_01: What are you shutting the doors for?
- 43:43She's like,
- 43:43the football game's just finished and we don't know the result yet.
- 43:46And so we're just locking everything up so no one trashes the
- 43:50place on their way through.
- 43:53SPEAKER_01: They end up drinking a lot of tequila that night.
- 43:57SPEAKER_03: I'm sorry.
- 43:58So...
- 43:59First of all,
- 44:00we should just clarify to everyone that that's not typical in Colombia.
- 44:05SPEAKER_00: You know,
- 44:05I think you have like a rare experience that for one could
- 44:09happen in any place in
- 44:10SPEAKER_00: the world.
- 44:11It just happened to happen with you in many...
- 44:15We had some pretty amazing experiences.
- 44:17SPEAKER_01: We backpacked around.
- 44:18SPEAKER_01: We were in Colombia for over a month.
- 44:20And,
- 44:21you know,
- 44:21we were up in...
- 44:23We went to...
- 44:24Stayed in this town called Turbo.
- 44:26SPEAKER_01: And on the way up to the capital Ghana, which is on the Panama border.
- 44:32SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 44:32SPEAKER_01: And we,
- 44:32SPEAKER_01: we got,
- 44:33SPEAKER_01: we got told,
- 44:33SPEAKER_01: Hey,
- 44:34SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 44:34SPEAKER_01: uh,
- 44:36SPEAKER_01: if no one's in town,
- 44:38SPEAKER_01: get back on the boat and come straight back.
- 44:42SPEAKER_01: And so we're like, oh, you know, we'll go out, we'll see.
- 44:45SPEAKER_01: Anyway, the little village is buzzing with life.
- 44:48You know,
- 44:49we end up getting a mani-pedi together,
- 44:51drinking beers on the balcony,
- 44:52eating stuff.
- 44:53SPEAKER_01: And there was this beautiful rainforest walk into this natural spring.
- 44:57SPEAKER_01: And, you know, we did have some really amazing times in Colombia.
- 45:02So that,
- 45:02I mean,
- 45:03obviously,
- 45:04the dramatic side of it is important for the...
- 45:07For the reasons in the book and for stories,
- 45:10but yeah,
- 45:10we had an amazing time.
- 45:12SPEAKER_01: We spent four months in South America.
- 45:17SPEAKER_03: Well,
- 45:18SPEAKER_03: yeah,
- 45:18SPEAKER_03: and I don't know why tourism is so focused on,
- 45:22SPEAKER_03: I hear everyone going to Medellin and it's not,
- 45:25SPEAKER_03: I mean,
- 45:25SPEAKER_03: it's fine,
- 45:26SPEAKER_03: but there are so many other places to go in.
- 45:29SPEAKER_03: And maybe, maybe you avoid or you reduce the risk of time.
- 45:35SPEAKER_01: No.
- 45:35SPEAKER_01: So we crossed from Venezuela to Santa Marta.
- 45:40SPEAKER_01: Oh.
- 45:42SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 45:42SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 45:43SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 45:45And then we went to Cartagena and then we went up to Turbo to
- 45:49Capogana and then all
- 45:50SPEAKER_01: the way back down to Medellin.
- 45:51SPEAKER_01: Oh, okay.
- 45:52SPEAKER_03: That's why.
- 45:52SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 45:53SPEAKER_01: And then because of what happened in Medellin,
- 45:55we didn't go to Bogota because we wanted to stay away from the
- 45:59big cities.
- 46:01And so we went across to,
- 46:04I can't remember,
- 46:05it's like a really big port city.
- 46:07SPEAKER_01: On the Caribbean?
- 46:11SPEAKER_02: Pacific?
- 46:12SPEAKER_01: No, on the west coast, on the Cali side.
- 46:17SPEAKER_03: Buenaventura?
- 46:19SPEAKER_01: Yeah, Buenaventura.
- 46:21SPEAKER_01: And then we caught a boat.
- 46:23SPEAKER_01: to this, like, it's not an island, but you go up the coast a little bit.
- 46:28SPEAKER_01: And we went and stayed there and we went surfing and,
- 46:31SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 46:31SPEAKER_01: we had some very interesting stories.
- 46:34And then we came back down to Cali and we actually trekked a volcano,
- 46:40which was incredible.
- 46:41SPEAKER_01: I realised I get altitude sickness.
- 46:49SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 46:50SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 46:51SPEAKER_01: So when we hiked up a volcano and we did the, um, what did we do?
- 46:58SPEAKER_01: We did coffee plantations as well up there.
- 47:01SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 47:03SPEAKER_01: We, we spent a month, we spent a month and everything.
- 47:08SPEAKER_02: We,
- 47:09SPEAKER_01: we,
- 47:10SPEAKER_01: we saw a lot of,
- 47:11SPEAKER_01: a lot of Columbia and you know,
- 47:12SPEAKER_01: we,
- 47:13SPEAKER_01: we,
- 47:13SPEAKER_01: I think that the problem was we,
- 47:16SPEAKER_01: we weren't always on the tourist trail.
- 47:19SPEAKER_02: Hmm.
- 47:21which meant that we did expose ourselves often enough to,
- 47:27you know,
- 47:28not great situations.
- 47:29SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 47:31SPEAKER_03: Where else in South America did you go?
- 47:35SPEAKER_01: So we started off in Venezuela.
- 47:38So obviously I take my wife to the most dangerous city outside
- 47:41of a war zone.
- 47:44SPEAKER_01: And we spent a month in Venezuela.
- 47:49SPEAKER_01: Again, like...
- 47:50you know we we actually we had a few really cool not cool
- 47:54really good stories that
- 47:55came out of it but you know we had amazing experiences the
- 47:58people were amazing uh
- 48:00the nature's incredible the food was delicious um so we spent a
- 48:05month there and
- 48:05SPEAKER_01: then we went down to uh peru no ecuador yeah ecuador
- 48:15SPEAKER_01: Couldn't go to the Galapagos,
- 48:17SPEAKER_01: but we went to,
- 48:18SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 48:18SPEAKER_01: poor man's Galapagos and we saw the blue-footed boobies on the island.
- 48:23And then we went down to Peru and did all the way down and so
- 48:29did Cabo Blanco in Peru.
- 48:33SPEAKER_01: Thought we were going to get murdered there.
- 48:35SPEAKER_01: Because we got kicked.
- 48:38SPEAKER_01: So we're saying Cabo Blanco.
- 48:40SPEAKER_01: We don't know where anything is.
- 48:41SPEAKER_01: We're on a public bus.
- 48:43SPEAKER_01: And they're always like, beware of where you're getting dropped off.
- 48:47SPEAKER_01: If they stop, you're going to get robbed.
- 48:50SPEAKER_01: Anyway, this bus is like, get off, go.
- 48:54SPEAKER_01: It's just over there.
- 48:55SPEAKER_01: And we're like...
- 48:59SPEAKER_01: We can't see anything.
- 49:00SPEAKER_01: Can you take us to the town?
- 49:01SPEAKER_01: And they're like, no.
- 49:02And everyone started yelling at us on the bus and was like,
- 49:05get off,
- 49:05get off,
- 49:05get off.
- 49:06SPEAKER_01: And so we,
- 49:07SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 49:08SPEAKER_01: jumped off the bus and,
- 49:10SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 49:10SPEAKER_01: pitch black and there's sand dunes on every side.
- 49:13SPEAKER_01: And, you know, it's just like, go that way.
- 49:17and literally i pulled my pocket knife out not that it would
- 49:20have done much but i
- 49:22had my pocket knife out until we reached like this guard house
- 49:25which is maybe two
- 49:26kilometers up the road and uh and we're like where where's
- 49:31where's this place
- 49:32you're saying oh it's just behind here don't worry you're good
- 49:34you're good and it's
- 49:35like you know completely unwarranted but you know you just get
- 49:39get dropped in the
- 49:39SPEAKER_01: middle of nowhere and yeah we did death road in bolivia
- 49:45SPEAKER_00: Yeah, the mountain bike.
- 49:48SPEAKER_01: Yeah, the mountain bike thing.
- 49:50SPEAKER_01: And actually, we had a girl in the group behind us fell.
- 49:57SPEAKER_02: Oh.
- 49:57SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 49:58SPEAKER_01: Fell.
- 49:59SPEAKER_01: She fell two to three hundred metres down the cliff.
- 50:03and no no emergency services no our guide was the only one with
- 50:09rescue equipment so
- 50:10he had to go back up and get all sorted the the only
- 50:14painkillers on the whole
- 50:15mountain was panadol and she had to drive two or three hours
- 50:22back to the capital la
- 50:23SPEAKER_01: paz for for treatment
- 50:27SPEAKER_00: This was a while ago, right?
- 50:28SPEAKER_00: This South America trip, at least 10 years ago?
- 50:31SPEAKER_01: This was... Yeah, this was... 2012, end of 2012.
- 50:38SPEAKER_01: Okay, yeah.
- 50:41SPEAKER_00: Things aren't quite as wild.
- 50:42SPEAKER_03: That was before the peace process deal.
- 50:47SPEAKER_03: That was before the peace process deal in Colombia.
- 50:52SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 50:52SPEAKER_01: Which was 2016, so...
- 50:55SPEAKER_01: Yeah, and I think it was before, who was it, Che Guevara?
- 51:01SPEAKER_01: What's his name?
- 51:02SPEAKER_01: Who's the dictator in Venezuela?
- 51:05SPEAKER_03: Oh, yeah, Chavez.
- 51:07SPEAKER_01: Chavez, before he passed away.
- 51:09SPEAKER_01: So it's like just as he was finishing.
- 51:12SPEAKER_01: So it was all pretty turbulent.
- 51:17SPEAKER_03: Yeah, with all the politics, current politics.
- 51:20SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 51:20SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 51:22SPEAKER_00: No,
- 51:22SPEAKER_00: but I mean,
- 51:22SPEAKER_03: I,
- 51:23SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 51:23SPEAKER_00: I,
- 51:23SPEAKER_00: I,
- 51:24SPEAKER_00: I backpacked around South America in like 2005,
- 51:28SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 51:29SPEAKER_00: it was,
- 51:29SPEAKER_00: it was kind of the same thing.
- 51:30SPEAKER_00: And it's,
- 51:31SPEAKER_00: but it's like now it's not,
- 51:34SPEAKER_00: even though like politically it's way more charged,
- 51:37SPEAKER_00: I think than it was then.
- 51:39SPEAKER_00: Like, I think it's much harder to have those kinds of wild experiences.
- 51:44SPEAKER_00: Like, you know, like going off the road and off road in Peru and,
- 51:49there's you know some of these like beautiful mountains like
- 51:52rainbow mountain
- 51:53something like 10 years ago didn't even wasn't on like any
- 51:58anyone's radar is now
- 51:59just like a line of buses and people and yeah it's i mean it's
- 52:04weird it's like in i
- 52:05don't know things are a little more like sanitary and uh in
- 52:10terms of like tourist
- 52:11amenities i think now but yeah i think internet and phone
- 52:17camera phones are
- 52:19SPEAKER_01: It's sort of done a lot of that damage, hasn't it?
- 52:21SPEAKER_01: Yeah, fucking Instagram.
- 52:22SPEAKER_01: You can protect yourself a lot and,
- 52:24SPEAKER_01: yeah,
- 52:25people send a photo and it becomes the hottest new thing and
- 52:29gets turbocharged into normalness.
- 52:34SPEAKER_00: While we're still on the kind of topic of travel,
- 52:36SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 52:37SPEAKER_00: you did,
- 52:39SPEAKER_00: like,
- 52:39SPEAKER_00: as a cook,
- 52:40SPEAKER_00: not just as a,
- 52:42SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 52:42SPEAKER_00: traveling adventurer or whatever,
- 52:44SPEAKER_00: you traveled quite a bit.
- 52:47SPEAKER_00: Like, I mean, you...
- 52:49SPEAKER_00: I mean, a lot of your influences are from outside Australia.
- 52:52SPEAKER_00: Like,
- 52:53SPEAKER_00: uh,
- 52:54SPEAKER_00: um,
- 52:54SPEAKER_00: you,
- 52:55SPEAKER_00: we mentioned Noma,
- 52:56SPEAKER_00: you cooked where else in,
- 52:58in,
- 52:59SPEAKER_00: in London at,
- 53:00SPEAKER_00: uh,
- 53:01SPEAKER_00: didn't you,
- 53:02SPEAKER_00: didn't I?
- 53:02SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 53:02SPEAKER_01: With, uh, St.
- 53:04SPEAKER_01: John Brett, St.
- 53:04SPEAKER_01: John Brett of mine and Echebari in Spain.
- 53:09SPEAKER_00: Echebari.
- 53:10SPEAKER_00: I want to just stop there for a minute because
- 53:12SPEAKER_00: What was your experience there?
- 53:14SPEAKER_00: How long were you there for one?
- 53:16SPEAKER_01: So it was off the back of Noma.
- 53:21SPEAKER_01: One of the guys that I was working with,
- 53:23SPEAKER_01: a guy called Yarnik,
- 53:25SPEAKER_01: was like,
- 53:25SPEAKER_01: you should go check out this place.
- 53:27SPEAKER_01: It's barbecue.
- 53:29SPEAKER_01: And I didn't have anything else to do at that time.
- 53:31SPEAKER_01: I was looking for the next place to go.
- 53:33SPEAKER_01: And I was like, you know what?
- 53:34SPEAKER_01: Yeah, barbecue.
- 53:35SPEAKER_01: And in my mind, I'm like, you know, how good can it be, right?
- 53:39SPEAKER_01: It's barbecue.
- 53:40SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 53:40I've never really been to a restaurant or a barbecue restaurant
- 53:44that was a proper restaurant.
- 53:48And so going there,
- 53:50going there,
- 53:50I was kind of like,
- 53:51oh,
- 53:52look,
- 53:52you know,
- 53:54what's it all about?
- 53:55SPEAKER_01: Let's see what it's all about.
- 53:57SPEAKER_01: And finally got in and I went there and was just absolutely blown away.
- 54:03SPEAKER_01: It was like,
- 54:04SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 54:04SPEAKER_01: the produce that they get,
- 54:06SPEAKER_01: the way they look after it,
- 54:08SPEAKER_01: the way they store it,
- 54:09SPEAKER_01: their hospitality was like absolutely incredible.
- 54:14SPEAKER_01: And,
- 54:15SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 54:15SPEAKER_01: their technique when they start cooking,
- 54:18SPEAKER_01: I didn't realise you could have technique.
- 54:22SPEAKER_01: Technique and barbecue couldn't be...
- 54:25spoken about at the same time so you know being able to see
- 54:29that firsthand was
- 54:31really the game changer for me with how it all worked so i
- 54:36think what happened is i
- 54:37went for three months to answer your question went for three
- 54:41months stayed for
- 54:42SPEAKER_01: stayed for five months um before leaving so
- 54:49Was that the moment,
- 54:50that experience that you had some more direction towards burn-ins?
- 54:57SPEAKER_01: Oh, 100%.
- 54:59SPEAKER_01: I love everything about cooking with wood,
- 55:04SPEAKER_01: how he goes about it,
- 55:05SPEAKER_01: understanding that there's techniques,
- 55:06SPEAKER_01: understanding that you could run a proper restaurant with barbecue.
- 55:13That was the place where it went,
- 55:14oh,
- 55:14you can run a proper restaurant with barbecue.
- 55:17SPEAKER_01: And so then going forward a little bit,
- 55:23going to London and being involved with all the pop-ups with
- 55:26the Young Turks and,
- 55:28SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 55:28SPEAKER_01: James Lowe's and Isaac and the Clove Club guys,
- 55:32SPEAKER_01: I was always put on the barbecue.
- 55:34SPEAKER_01: So it's always, you know, sort of became the thing that I was doing.
- 55:38SPEAKER_01: And so that's sort of reinforced that idea and was like,
- 55:42SPEAKER_01: oh,
- 55:42SPEAKER_01: actually,
- 55:43SPEAKER_01: I can do this and drive it forward.
- 55:47SPEAKER_00: And then that's when you start doing the pop-ups in London.
- 55:52SPEAKER_01: Yes.
- 55:53SPEAKER_01: And so on the back of that,
- 55:54SPEAKER_01: I think 2012,
- 55:56SPEAKER_01: the summer of 2012 in the UK,
- 56:02SPEAKER_01: Nuno Mendez's mate,
- 56:05SPEAKER_01: Ian,
- 56:06SPEAKER_01: was like,
- 56:06I want to do a barbecue in my railway art where we do our
- 56:11coffee roasting.
- 56:14SPEAKER_01: And so Nuno was like, oh, you should speak to this guy.
- 56:16SPEAKER_01: And so we chatted and,
- 56:18SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 56:18one thing led to another and he thought he was getting a couple
- 56:20of gas grills and a
- 56:21SPEAKER_01: bit of merguez.
- 56:23And we built these four-ton fuel cavity wood burning oven and
- 56:27these massive
- 56:28SPEAKER_01: elevation grills in his courtyard.
- 56:29SPEAKER_01: So, you know, that's where it all kicked off.
- 56:35What I found interesting,
- 56:36and I found this thing a lot in your book,
- 56:40but also through Rechibari,
- 56:42SPEAKER_00: is how personalized the grills are,
- 56:47SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 56:47SPEAKER_00: it's like,
- 56:47SPEAKER_00: there's not,
- 56:48SPEAKER_00: there's not like one standard,
- 56:51SPEAKER_00: it's not like Argentina where it's,
- 56:52SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 56:52SPEAKER_00: it's like all the grills kind of look the same or,
- 56:55SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 56:55even though there's very different variations for cooking
- 56:58different things,
- 56:59SPEAKER_00: but it's,
- 57:01SPEAKER_00: it's so personalized to who you are and what you want to cook and,
- 57:07SPEAKER_00: there's not just like one element that you need to build.
- 57:11SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 57:12SPEAKER_00: It's just,
- 57:13SPEAKER_00: everything's just this like handmade pre like your own design,
- 57:18SPEAKER_00: everything that's kind of in your head,
- 57:21SPEAKER_00: putting it together thing.
- 57:23SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 57:25SPEAKER_00: Does that make sense?
- 57:25SPEAKER_00: I think I'm going off on a weird tangent.
- 57:28SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 57:29SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 57:30No,
- 57:30look,
- 57:31I,
- 57:31I think,
- 57:32you know,
- 57:32when we,
- 57:33when we built the first set of ovens,
- 57:37SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 57:38SPEAKER_01: I was trying to model it on,
- 57:41SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 57:41SPEAKER_01: the reasons why Echibari had ovens,
- 57:44SPEAKER_01: which is primarily to burn coals.
- 57:48SPEAKER_01: But then what I,
- 57:51SPEAKER_01: one of the things I really enjoyed while I was there is,
- 57:54SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 57:54SPEAKER_01: when you'd cook like baby goat in the oven or,
- 57:59SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 57:59SPEAKER_01: for family meal,
- 58:01SPEAKER_01: we would have to cook or we would not have to,
- 58:03SPEAKER_01: but we would cook like lasagnas and bake them in the cold oven.
- 58:08SPEAKER_01: And I think, you know, sort of, and then you go work at St.
- 58:12SPEAKER_01: John where they do these slow roasted suckling pigs, right?
- 58:15SPEAKER_01: In deck ovens.
- 58:18SPEAKER_01: And,
- 58:19SPEAKER_01: When you figure out, oh, what did I really love doing?
- 58:23I enjoyed like I love doing the slow roasting of the animals
- 58:29and I love doing like
- 58:30SPEAKER_01: slow bake dishes that were beautiful.
- 58:32SPEAKER_01: So actually I need it to not just burn wood.
- 58:36SPEAKER_01: I have to have it to be able to do this.
- 58:40SPEAKER_01: And so that's,
- 58:40SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 58:41SPEAKER_01: there's nothing on the market where you can just be like,
- 58:43SPEAKER_01: oh,
- 58:43SPEAKER_01: let's tick this box and grab one of these.
- 58:46SPEAKER_01: And so it was really – it did need to be personalized.
- 58:49SPEAKER_01: And because it was freeform and not built into a preexisting structure,
- 58:55SPEAKER_01: we had to figure it out and we had to have a crack at making it.
- 59:00So it was very personalized because there were certain things
- 59:04we wanted to do with
- 59:05SPEAKER_01: it that hadn't been done before.
- 59:09Yeah,
- 59:09I think what I was getting at was there's not really like a
- 59:12replicable setup.
- 59:15SPEAKER_00: for a modern barbecue restaurant,
- 59:17SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 59:17SPEAKER_00: it's so adapted to your specific building,
- 59:21SPEAKER_00: your specific,
- 59:22SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 59:23SPEAKER_00: part of the world or,
- 59:24SPEAKER_00: or whatever.
- 59:25SPEAKER_00: It's not,
- 59:25SPEAKER_00: yeah,
- 59:26SPEAKER_00: it's not just like a French kitchen where it's like,
- 59:28SPEAKER_00: you need a,
- 59:30SPEAKER_00: a line of,
- 59:30SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 59:31SPEAKER_00: burners and whatever.
- 59:34SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 59:37SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 59:38SPEAKER_00: No, but it's, it's cool.
- 59:39And I think it may,
- 59:40it gives such individuality to,
- 59:42to all these kitchens,
- 59:43you know,
- 59:44that,
- 59:45SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 59:45SPEAKER_00: It's cool.
- 59:46SPEAKER_00: And they all look different.
- 59:48So when you went to Singapore,
- 59:51the kitchen setup was much different,
- 59:52right?
- 59:52SPEAKER_00: It was like a tiny little place in Chinatown, like much smaller.
- 59:56SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 59:57SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 59:57SPEAKER_01: It was like, you know,
- 1:00:001300 1400 square foot you know we had 18 counter seats we had
- 1:00:05this tiny little
- 1:00:06kitchen tiny little cool room and that was it right and so you
- 1:00:12know we went from
- 1:00:13doing these big you know 400 person outdoor barbecues to this
- 1:00:19tiny little you know
- 1:00:202 to 3 maybe 4 person like meals that just were extremely
- 1:00:28different to what we were
- 1:00:29SPEAKER_01: used to
- 1:00:31So,
- 1:00:32you know,
- 1:00:32there's a fair bit of,
- 1:00:33you know,
- 1:00:34we weren't cooking whole turbots anymore.
- 1:00:36SPEAKER_01: We couldn't sell, like, all these huge steaks and stuff like that.
- 1:00:39So we needed to sort of listen to the customer a lot about how
- 1:00:44they wanted to use
- 1:00:45SPEAKER_01: the space and what we needed to do for them to make it work.
- 1:00:51SPEAKER_00: But you didn't want to do yakitori, right?
- 1:00:53SPEAKER_00: Like, that was one of the things...
- 1:00:56SPEAKER_00: PA told me to, like, it was just like, yeah.
- 1:01:00SPEAKER_01: That was a big thing.
- 1:01:01SPEAKER_01: So one of my now partners was like,
- 1:01:04SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:01:05SPEAKER_01: went to,
- 1:01:05SPEAKER_01: still goes to Japan a lot and loves Japan.
- 1:01:08SPEAKER_01: And, you know, his thing was, you know, I want to bring Yakitori to...
- 1:01:13singapore and you know that their idea was i'll do yakitori and
- 1:01:18you know a few
- 1:01:19other things and i came along and was like well no this is what
- 1:01:22i do and he was
- 1:01:23like well could we just put like a little bit of yakitori in
- 1:01:26there and and so i was
- 1:01:28like i was like you know what i don't know anything about
- 1:01:32yakitori i'd never been
- 1:01:33SPEAKER_01: to japan at that stage and
- 1:01:35But I knew enough to know that they've been perfecting this art
- 1:01:39for a long,
- 1:01:40long,
- 1:01:40long time.
- 1:01:41There was a lot of skill,
- 1:01:42a lot of technique and a lot of mastery behind it.
- 1:01:45SPEAKER_01: Stuff that I had none of, like 0%.
- 1:01:48SPEAKER_01: And I was just like, I'm not an imposter.
- 1:01:52SPEAKER_01: I'm not trying to do something that I have no idea about.
- 1:01:55SPEAKER_01: Stick to what I know.
- 1:01:56SPEAKER_01: If you want it, take it.
- 1:01:57SPEAKER_01: If you don't want it, we can part ways.
- 1:02:01SPEAKER_00: Yeah, but it worked out.
- 1:02:03SPEAKER_00: But the new space is massive, from what I understand.
- 1:02:06It's like a barbecue wonderland of equipment and spaces and
- 1:02:14grills and wood and smoke.
- 1:02:18SPEAKER_00: It's pretty recent, right?
- 1:02:20SPEAKER_00: When you hired PA, it was just starting the new space?
- 1:02:24SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we would have been maybe a year old.
- 1:02:27SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 1:02:31a year old when we when we set off on this expedition and so
- 1:02:36yeah we went it's you
- 1:02:37know probably 10 times bigger than the old space including the
- 1:02:41outside and you know
- 1:02:42we've got the bakery with the wood-fired bread oven we've got
- 1:02:45the main restaurant
- 1:02:47uh with the oven and grills then we've got the private room
- 1:02:50where you know we we
- 1:02:51SPEAKER_01: built a new oven which is a double-sided oven so it's like
- 1:02:57SPEAKER_01: Instead of having one side with doors, we've got two sides with doors.
- 1:03:02SPEAKER_01: And so you can use both sides.
- 1:03:04SPEAKER_01: Then we've got smaller grill set up, full kitchen.
- 1:03:08SPEAKER_01: And then we've just renovated our bar.
- 1:03:12We put in a bar kitchen specifically with them with a baby oven
- 1:03:16and a baby grill.
- 1:03:20SPEAKER_01: And then we inherited,
- 1:03:22Francis Maumann came to Singapore a couple of years ago and he
- 1:03:28was looking to
- 1:03:29SPEAKER_01: rehome his Maumann grill that he used while he was in Singapore.
- 1:03:34SPEAKER_01: And so we bought that and had a lot of fun playing with that.
- 1:03:38SPEAKER_01: And we recently bought an American offset.
- 1:03:46SPEAKER_01: Okay, cool.
- 1:03:48SPEAKER_01: Yeah,
- 1:03:48we're building up the toys and all the different things of
- 1:03:52barbecue and just
- 1:03:54enjoying experimenting and seeing how other things work and
- 1:03:58what the benefits are
- 1:03:59SPEAKER_01: and why people love them,
- 1:04:00SPEAKER_01: which is so exciting.
- 1:04:03SPEAKER_00: One day I'll get there.
- 1:04:05SPEAKER_00: One day.
- 1:04:06SPEAKER_00: All right, man.
- 1:04:07SPEAKER_00: Don't make it too long.
- 1:04:08SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I know.
- 1:04:09SPEAKER_00: My trips to Asia are pretty infrequent, but one day I'll get there.
- 1:04:15SPEAKER_00: One day.
- 1:04:15SPEAKER_00: Where are you based?
- 1:04:17I'm in New York,
- 1:04:18but I,
- 1:04:18you know,
- 1:04:18a lot of mostly in South America for work too.
- 1:04:22SPEAKER_01: Okay.
- 1:04:23SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 1:04:25SPEAKER_01: And Giuliana, you're in Columbia.
- 1:04:27SPEAKER_03: No, I am in Los Angeles.
- 1:04:32SPEAKER_03: Yeah, I know.
- 1:04:35SPEAKER_01: Safe from the fires?
- 1:04:38SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 1:04:39I mean,
- 1:04:39in comparison with the people that were,
- 1:04:43you know,
- 1:04:44directly affected for sure.
- 1:04:48it's just yeah I mean it's intense everything that comes with
- 1:04:53that and the
- 1:04:56aftermath which is still but yeah I mean I'm safe their quality
- 1:05:03is a concern
- 1:05:06because apparently even when is it green good or yellow
- 1:05:12moderate apparently it's
- 1:05:14SPEAKER_03: not
- 1:05:15true because all the,
- 1:05:17you know,
- 1:05:18residuals that these machines don't detect.
- 1:05:21SPEAKER_03: So I think they have to come up with new technique to be more accurate.
- 1:05:26SPEAKER_03: And I think that's the main concern in the aftermath is like how,
- 1:05:31SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 1:05:32SPEAKER_03: but I mean,
- 1:05:33SPEAKER_03: yes,
- 1:05:34SPEAKER_03: so far I can literally see,
- 1:05:36SPEAKER_03: yes,
- 1:05:37SPEAKER_03: I'm saying.
- 1:05:39SPEAKER_03: Thank you.
- 1:05:40I like the love,
- 1:05:41you know,
- 1:05:42let's talk about fire in different versions of it.
- 1:05:45SPEAKER_01: Different, yeah.
- 1:05:48SPEAKER_03: Different manifestations.
- 1:05:49SPEAKER_00: It's all connected.
- 1:05:51SPEAKER_03: It's all connected.
- 1:05:55SPEAKER_03: I have a question about fine dining.
- 1:06:00SPEAKER_03: If you have your own definition of fine dining,
- 1:06:04SPEAKER_03: or if you can think about one in this conversation.
- 1:06:10SPEAKER_01: Fine dining.
- 1:06:14SPEAKER_01: I think the way I think about fine dining is that it's,
- 1:06:23SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:06:25SPEAKER_01: the epitome of product,
- 1:06:29SPEAKER_01: technique,
- 1:06:31SPEAKER_01: service,
- 1:06:32SPEAKER_01: and overindulgence.
- 1:06:36SPEAKER_01: And I,
- 1:06:37SPEAKER_01: And I think,
- 1:06:38SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:06:38SPEAKER_01: especially when you go to like three stars and stuff,
- 1:06:41SPEAKER_01: it's like you might be able to find similar products.
- 1:06:44SPEAKER_01: You might be able to find similar techniques and technical abilities.
- 1:06:49SPEAKER_01: And service,
- 1:06:50SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:06:51SPEAKER_01: service can be,
- 1:06:52SPEAKER_01: you know,
- 1:06:53that extra level just because they've got so many staff and
- 1:06:56really the best of the best.
- 1:06:58But the big thing is with especially the free-star fine dining
- 1:07:02is that it's this
- 1:07:03SPEAKER_01: overindulgence of too much choice,
- 1:07:07SPEAKER_01: too much decadence and too much,
- 1:07:10SPEAKER_01: maybe not the right word or the words,
- 1:07:13but it's that excess of food that you never thought you wanted
- 1:07:22and I think that's
- 1:07:24SPEAKER_01: why it's so exciting for me.
- 1:07:28SPEAKER_00: Well, Dave, it was great speaking with you.
- 1:07:31SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 1:07:33SPEAKER_03: Thank you.
- 1:07:33SPEAKER_01: Thank you very much for your time, guys.
- 1:07:35SPEAKER_03: What time is it there?
- 1:07:36SPEAKER_03: We are in extreme.
- 1:07:38SPEAKER_01: It's 10 past 11.
- 1:07:40SPEAKER_01: Oh, shit.
- 1:07:40SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 1:07:41SPEAKER_01: Go to bed, man.
- 1:07:43SPEAKER_01: All right.
- 1:07:46SPEAKER_01: We've still got a Friday night service going on.
- 1:07:48SPEAKER_00: Oh, shit.
- 1:07:49SPEAKER_01: Not quite yet.
- 1:07:50SPEAKER_01: Not quite yet.
- 1:07:52SPEAKER_00: What time do you usually get out?
- 1:07:55uh usually never before midnight okay and i'm i'm generally the
- 1:08:00first one out all
- 1:08:01right well we won't keep you too long so all right thanks man
- 1:08:05really appreciate it
- 1:08:07thank you very much for your time guys it was lovely talking to
- 1:08:09you guys thank you
- 1:08:11everyone for listening i hope you enjoyed that interview with
- 1:08:14dave paint of burnt
- 1:08:16SPEAKER_00: ends in singapore um
- 1:08:20SPEAKER_00: If you haven't subscribed to the newsletter, just go to neworder.com.
- 1:08:24SPEAKER_00: Check us out there.
- 1:08:25SPEAKER_00: Lots of interesting content.
- 1:08:28And a big thank you to my friend Pat Buzzard for providing the
- 1:08:32music to the show.
- 1:08:33SPEAKER_00: Find out more about Pat at patbuzzard.com.
- 1:08:36SPEAKER_00: Peace.