Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / Obi-Wan Kenobi with Costume Designer, Suttirat Anne Larlarb
Transcript
- 0:12Darth Vader comes out. And everybody who's so serious?
- 0:15Working all the equipment would drop to the ground.
- 0:18Everybody was dispelled, they played the music.
- 0:22You know, he entered on set with the music and everybody turned
- 0:26into a teenager, you know, it was just amazing.
- 0:29I literally A just got chills right now.
- 0:43Hello, and welcome to the art of costume.
- 0:45Blogcast. I'm Spencer Williams and I'm
- 0:47Alyssa Julie, glass, how's it going, little Elizabeth.
- 0:52Oh my gosh. Thank you for joining me on the
- 0:55wonderful planet of Tatooine app where everything here is.
- 1:00Perfectly fine. Everything's great, there's sand
- 1:03and it's fine. This is the Raiders, they want
- 1:07to kill you inquisitors, keep showing up chopping her hands
- 1:10off looking for some dusty guy who supposedly died, 10 years
- 1:15ago but you know Anakin was right?
- 1:18The sand is bad. We are here to talk about a fun
- 1:27a TV series as Part of our Star Wars month.
- 1:31It's been packed the Stars month.
- 1:33Absolutely. We are here to talk about
- 1:36Obi-Wan Kenobi. The TV show, I gotta say, I
- 1:43really liked this one. I really liked this one, it's so
- 1:47good. It was just like Charming it.
- 1:50Like warmed like my heart. Like it gave me so many like
- 1:54warm fuzzies for and like memories from watching the
- 1:57chillage the prequel. Of a child.
- 2:01I was like where you go. Ewan.
- 2:03McGregor look. Here you go.
- 2:06Yeah. No really.
- 2:07Gave me all the feels, you know, you and II feel like, well he
- 2:11shall speak for me. I grew up on the prequels.
- 2:13Of course I watched, you know, the classic trilogy but the
- 2:16prequel films. Really, what was coming out as I
- 2:18was kind of growing up and that was what I you know, fell in
- 2:22love with and what's what brought me into the Star Wars
- 2:25universe. So this series really just gave
- 2:27me all the feels Christensen and come back.
- 2:32Let me go back. Come on, man.
- 2:34He is just so cool. And I just feel like this is his
- 2:38moment, and I'm just so happy for him, and I'm happy for us
- 2:42that we got the stick around and see this come together, you
- 2:45know, it's so cool. You say, like, oh, you grow up
- 2:48with the trilogy? Like I I remember, I definitely
- 2:51saw like the original Three first, but that's because my
- 2:55parents chose like sure. Does, like, strange movies.
- 3:00A very young age because I was like, wow, I was probably a
- 3:02toddler when I watched the original trilogy.
- 3:06I remember watching the prequels and like knowing what everything
- 3:09was about like the first and it came out in like 1999 and I was
- 3:15like, like four or five. I remember saying that saying in
- 3:20the theaters pertain I was like podracing.
- 3:23Oh my gosh at Chuck E cheese. They had the pod racing ride to
- 3:26do, remember that it has like I don't get to go to Chuck E
- 3:29cheese. Very often my gosh, I mean I
- 3:33should have saw this coming but anyways what is that?
- 3:38We have a great guess I'm so excited to talk to her about her
- 3:43work on this series. But first we have to get to our
- 3:46everyday business. Elizabeth, why don't you hit us
- 3:49with a summary? Absolutely, we have Obi-Wan
- 3:53Kenobi. The former Jedi Master that we
- 3:56all know and love as he contends with the Consequences of his
- 4:01greatest defeat and the downfall of the Jedi Order and his
- 4:07one-time friend. And Apprentice Anakin Skywalker,
- 4:12who has turned to the dark side as the evil Sith.
- 4:15Lord. Darth Vader.
- 4:18Major bummer. Yeah, that's the whole story arc
- 4:26for Vader, though. Major bummer.
- 4:28Yeah, literally bummer. Down.
- 4:30Let's dive behind a wardrobe. We have director, Deborah chow,
- 4:34and costume designer suit to rot, and larb.
- 4:37Yes, you and those who Tara from her work on some, Dog,
- 4:41Millionaire for which she won a costume designer.
- 4:44Guild award Sunshine, which Elizabeth just gave me a full
- 4:48recounting before we got on the air.
- 4:51Sounds very exciting. I did, I did don't start the sun
- 4:55everyone 127 Hours Frankenstein. In American Gods to TV series
- 5:02Gemini, man. And no time to die to James Bond
- 5:05film, for which she was nominated for another costume,
- 5:08designer, Guild award. And with that, we're going to
- 5:12take a little break and when we come back we will be joined by
- 5:15the costume. Designer herself suits rot and
- 5:17larb. I am so pleased to welcome
- 5:45costume. Designer suit, Aurora and larvae
- 5:47Surat. How are you?
- 5:49Welcome, great. Thank you.
- 5:51Thanks for having me on. We're so excited to have you on.
- 5:54We've been talking about your work so much and it's just a
- 5:56real pleasure for you to have for you to be a part of our Star
- 5:59Wars month won't be. Complete without you.
- 6:01Thank you, thank you. Well, I want to start from the
- 6:07beginning was so exciting about this project in particular.
- 6:12As I'm sure you could attest to is the culmination of the
- 6:14Legacy. That is the Star Wars Universe.
- 6:17We see two classic Trilogy for which John model famously
- 6:20designed a costumes on a small budget.
- 6:22Meet the stories and characters of the prequel trilogy, which
- 6:26Elizabeth, and I kind of grew up and with costumes designed by
- 6:29Trisha biggar. What did your preparation and
- 6:32research look like on this project now that we're kind of
- 6:35merging those two worlds together?
- 6:37Well, interestingly, I know you've put together this Trio of
- 6:41images but you could have come and work in my department
- 6:44because this is exactly the kind of thing.
- 6:47Obviously you wouldn't have had the third image yet, but, but
- 6:52this is exactly the kind of thing I would do.
- 6:53I would, you know, when you take on something like this, with
- 6:56such a iconic Legacy Of almost cultural importance to it.
- 7:03You can't ignore what came before you and you have to,
- 7:07especially in this story where you're actually you're talking
- 7:09about one character who's developed over time, backwards,
- 7:13forwards, all of that. So they're sort of special remit
- 7:17with this project which is, we're inserting Obi-Wan.
- 7:20And to a timeline that is very well established already sort of
- 7:24before and after. So yes, very definitely research
- 7:30is Like the DNA of the project, you have to go back.
- 7:33You have to look at what what the language the visual language
- 7:37was and in the world of Star Wars of course you and any Star
- 7:41Wars fans will know and and recognize that Star Wars is
- 7:45really really specific in the in the world of sci-fi.
- 7:49It's so you know arguably it's the most grounded in a way like
- 7:54you're in these covers and everybody's costumes,
- 7:57everybody's looks the environments.
- 7:59The props all of them are derived from womb where they
- 8:03live and what that action requires in that environment
- 8:06that they exist in. So these costumes, even though
- 8:10there's other influences, obviously with Samurai culture
- 8:14and all of the things that would have been, you know, enter the
- 8:18equation in the original one, the 70s versions with George
- 8:23Lucas and John Marlowe. I wanted to make sure I
- 8:27understood all of that. So when we Had our version of
- 8:31it, it felt natural to that development you know both kind
- 8:36of inherently in the language of it.
- 8:39Visually you want to have some relationship to just because
- 8:42Star Wars is one of those things that sort of bigger than itself.
- 8:45Like you can't kind of go to off-piste without alienating a
- 8:49whole bunch of people who absolutely, you know, all of
- 8:53that is so well digested and I fans memory of Of what came
- 9:00before and so you have to pay a lot of homage to that.
- 9:05I think at the same time you're showing a new chapter and so you
- 9:10have to be able to push things forward.
- 9:12But still respect what came before and if you're going to
- 9:15make decisions that feel separate, I feel like you really
- 9:20have to have a good reason. Interestingly, in this Trio of
- 9:23images, you you've done this great job of kind of seeing you
- 9:29see the parallels. You see?
- 9:30relationship between the development of the cost of
- 9:32between each of these photos and the development of Obi-Wan at
- 9:35various periods of his life and funnily enough, you know, you
- 9:39have this iconic image of the kind of brown and oatmeal color
- 9:43Rogue the job and when I did the breakdown of what Tatooine
- 9:48residents were like if you actually kind of go in a, with a
- 9:52sort of forensic, I I was taking screen grabs of every single
- 9:57Patron in the tea teen. I was taking screen grabs of
- 10:01everybody who walked by any of the vehicles, any of the people
- 10:06on the street, the background, the, you know, the atmosphere I
- 10:10took screen grabs of every kind of clothing item, I could see.
- 10:14And when I put that on a board you see not just Jedi versions
- 10:19of it, but there is a Tatooine look, that is very attached to
- 10:22what we've come to understand as a Jedi look, when you break that
- 10:25down even further, it's the environment.
- 10:27Like it's a very, it's an In which the dies that would have
- 10:32come from the plants on Tatooine, or the pigments from
- 10:36the minerals of the sound and the Earth would have colored
- 10:38these clothing. So you have this one thread
- 10:41which is very steeped in sort of Jedi Laura.
- 10:45Then you have this other thread, which is very Tatooine.
- 10:47And with our Obi-Wan sort of being quote, unquote hidden in
- 10:53plain sight in Tatooine. We have this great opportunity
- 10:57to still make him feel like B14 a fan but also make him feel
- 11:03like Tatooine resident, you know, Incognito ish because he's
- 11:09living in Tatooine and can't be recognized by any of the
- 11:12Tatooine citizens as being Obi-Wan, the first look you see
- 11:16him and he's in a blue kind of an indigo.
- 11:19Whoa D blue linen, tunic shirt that is makes him fit into the
- 11:26environment he's working in and so that's the I wanted to make
- 11:29sure that When we met him, we as both the audience, and I was
- 11:32also, if you were living in, tattooing you to understand that
- 11:35this is someone who just fits within this whole scheme of
- 11:38things. And he's not yet.
- 11:40The Obi-Wan will come to understand.
- 11:41He is later in the series right here.
- 11:43Almost couldn't recognize them at first.
- 11:45Yeah. And that was sort of the point
- 11:47and there was a lot of ruminating over this because,
- 11:50you know, with a, with a franchise like this, there's
- 11:53this responsibility to introduce especially a character, like,
- 11:57Obi-Wan, who I would say in the top echelon.
- 12:00Alon of memorable characters and, and definitive and
- 12:03characters. You want him to be recognized
- 12:08obviously by an audience coming into it.
- 12:10Who knows the history of Obi-Wan, but you also wanted to
- 12:13make sense for the story, which is he's in hiding in plain
- 12:16sight, you know. And he's not wearing a, it's not
- 12:19a disguise, he just, he has to fit into Tatooine.
- 12:22But luckily, there were these Bridges between what he would
- 12:25end up wearing. And what a Tatooine citizen
- 12:28every day might be wearing. That give gave us, you know, the
- 12:32right amount of being able to touch on both of those things,
- 12:36right? So exciting also probably the
- 12:41most exciting character of the whole series.
- 12:44We have Princess Leia, her costumes, really channeled like
- 12:50the spirit of Carrie, Fisher's, original Leia.
- 12:53That we all come to have known and loved the Silhouettes and
- 12:57colors. That just like it.
- 12:58All really worked and was so So gorgeous.
- 13:01How did you approach her design? Well, interestingly to, this is
- 13:06a, obviously, another definitive iconic character, who lots of
- 13:10people are going to have an opinion about an expectation
- 13:13for. And then you think, okay, as the
- 13:16responsibility of the costume designer, yes, is to make a
- 13:20character exciting for someone to visually consume and
- 13:24remember, but you also have this other responsibly.
- 13:26We were trying to tell very specific story.
- 13:29Where did she come from? And how did she end up being the
- 13:32Carrie Fisher version? Where what are the routes that
- 13:34you might see in our version that then would develop into the
- 13:39version that we all already knew and loved?
- 13:42And so you can sort of I think knee-jerk instinctive visual
- 13:48firm Princess Leia in the Carrie Fisher version is is the white
- 13:52Ensemble right? Cream or caramel depending on
- 13:54your calibration of your screen, you know, I think we what we
- 13:59know That and knowing that, that was sort of like the Apex.
- 14:02Princess Leia, you have to then think.
- 14:05Okay, how does, how does she get there?
- 14:08And we have obviously the story of she's in Alderaan and we meet
- 14:13her and there's this event happening in her in the palace
- 14:17in which she's grown up. And we really I loved this idea.
- 14:23That was evident in the script that it's in her character,
- 14:28she's substituted With one of her minions, right?
- 14:32And that person is wearing the official Royal garment that
- 14:36she's supposed to be wearing to this banquet.
- 14:39And you don't find that as a trick in the beginning and where
- 14:41she really is, it's outside playing in the trees.
- 14:43Like any could would observing from Vic.
- 14:45Not really wanting to be in The Itchy wool clothing.
- 14:48Not wanting to be like put in front of a bunch of adults.
- 14:51She just wants to play and have Adventures right?
- 14:54And she's a kid so we want to make sure that we're
- 14:57telegraphing the kid like, Of that like the irreverence and
- 15:02the willfulness. And she's a kid who has also
- 15:04quite a lot of power. So she's got the stubbornness of
- 15:09knowing herself and so even if a parent or an official dresser,
- 15:14or anybody in the Royal household be like, no, these are
- 15:16the clothes that your mom. And you, we fit them for you.
- 15:19They've been made for you for this occasion.
- 15:21She's up cheap from the beginning.
- 15:23She's already like broken the rules, right?
- 15:25She's out there. She's doing her thing up in the
- 15:27tree. And she's ignoring like the No,
- 15:30what's been set out for that day.
- 15:32Anyway, she comes back, she's dragged it into the banquet
- 15:36situation, she has to Don those garments, there's a few Easter
- 15:39eggs than this garment, which I'm not sure I'm sure people
- 15:43have tried to break apart but I'll just explain them in case
- 15:46it's not evident, please do go on her, the embroidered in those
- 15:52sort of magenta hombre. We called it the pinafore it,
- 15:57the embroidery on that is actually Lee a symbol on her
- 16:01chest and then the ones that kind of go in the Ark in the
- 16:05next layer above that, those are that is an amalgamation.
- 16:09I asked when I saw that, we were going to have this banquet.
- 16:13I thought to myself of queens and royalty, who in their
- 16:18cultures in real life in Planet, in planet Earth, and our
- 16:21lifetime Queens who are so connected to their people on the
- 16:25culture and the handicrafts of the world that they come from
- 16:29that. They Actually encouraged the the
- 16:33weaving and the textiles of their country, their world to
- 16:38enter into the patterns that they wear when they go to Royal
- 16:42occasions. And I wrote to Pablo the Star
- 16:45Wars historian and I asked him, what is the Flora and Fauna on
- 16:49Alderaan that. I you that's been established so
- 16:52far that might be recognizable or even not.
- 16:56But what, you know, what were the original discussions of,
- 16:59what the environment would be? Be because I feel like that's a
- 17:02common thing and weaving is you take the official flora fauna,
- 17:06that's everywhere that everybody on that planet, or that country
- 17:09would know and you, you make it a motif that people there would
- 17:13understand and integrate it into textile.
- 17:18So, it's a combination of, I believe, it's called the
- 17:22struggling Pearl Blossom, which was established in a Manga
- 17:27version of in the Star Wars universe.
- 17:30Of all the things that happened in the world related officially.
- 17:34It doesn't exempt. Common sort of like the
- 17:37lovechild between the struggling Pearl Blossom, fictional flower,
- 17:41which has a little Pearl in the inside, which I'm going to come
- 17:45back to remind me to come back to the Pearl because it relates
- 17:47to the queen queen Brea in this and that.
- 17:51And he said that the environment, if it was a real
- 17:55world, environment would be like an Edelweiss or an Alpine an
- 18:00Fine flour, which the name is escaping me.
- 18:01So I took those flowers and I kind of Amalgamated them and
- 18:05made it her royal symbol. We her mother, the queen, or her
- 18:09adopted mother. The queen has that same Motif
- 18:14printed on the inside of a heard the Cape of her dress and
- 18:18inside, like the middle of each flower is a pearl that's been
- 18:23stitched on. I'm not sure if that's, you can
- 18:26see that in the, you know, in the series.
- 18:28But if you got up close to the car, She like, that's the kind
- 18:31of detail we were trying to run through as a sort of celebration
- 18:33of Alderaan. That's beautiful.
- 18:36It's I love the attention to detail.
- 18:37Especially since Alderaan really doesn't get its time and place
- 18:40so much in the universe. So this is really the first time
- 18:44we get to explore it and so with that you how you can, then start
- 18:48there with all the bells and whistles of Alderaan and royalty
- 18:51and then break away from that as she goes on there and she goes
- 18:54on her Adventure, she's making more and more of her own
- 18:56choices. She's drawn to the yellow gloves
- 18:59in the It place she you know, the Poncho rain Cape idea, sort
- 19:04of Harkins to something. We're going to see on Carrie
- 19:06Fisher and I later rendition, and then the layers kind of peel
- 19:10away. And finally, and when you're in
- 19:11the last episode, you see a little mini version of what you
- 19:15might see. Later, Carrie Fisher, and it's
- 19:17also got the same embroidery on it, it's so beautiful.
- 19:21I love it so much. It's just the colors.
- 19:24The Silhouettes really, just felt like this was like you
- 19:27said, planting the roots for what we will later.
- 19:29Come to know. That what we grew up with, it's
- 19:32so cool. What I also was obsessed with as
- 19:35a serious Star Wars nerd was seeing the inquisitors come to
- 19:39life and live action. Particularly love.
- 19:41Reva and the grand Inquisitor. The pieces are so technical.
- 19:45I love the lines in the Silhouettes and the textiles are
- 19:48so interesting. I have to imagine working on
- 19:50these characters, in particular, were a lot of fun, but probably
- 19:54challenge. I'm assuming.
- 19:55Yeah, I mean, the thing about doing anything of this
- 19:59continent, Nature is yes, you have to link with Udders except
- 20:04for Eva are well-established, right?
- 20:06So you ready kind of have to you're basically bring to life
- 20:10something that was only ever conceived in a sort of literal
- 20:13to deform. But when you take something
- 20:16that's established a to deform and you bring it to life in 3D,
- 20:19and the characters are written with quite a lot of action
- 20:21Mobility becomes an issue. So, you start having two, which
- 20:25is why I like in earlier days, I'm not just talking about Star
- 20:29Wars, but You know, in earlier, generations of filmmaking where
- 20:33you have armor, anything that relates to armor, and you have
- 20:35to move in that armor as a sort of stiffness to how people move
- 20:39in walk. And that is sort of legit.
- 20:42Because these are hard pieces on a let's say, soft body.
- 20:46And the body is trying to do things that the hardness is
- 20:48trying to contain, you know. Yeah.
- 20:50So we actually spent a lot of time kind of engineering sort of
- 20:56preordained Inquisitor look for the, the Ones that you already
- 21:00know and worked on them so that they worked on these particular
- 21:04actors bodies and they were able to move and express themselves
- 21:07in a way that would be natural to them for their characters.
- 21:11Eva is a new addition to this lexicon, there was probably the
- 21:16liberty of being able to end knowing obviously, when I come
- 21:20into something, as I know what her journey is going to be, so
- 21:23anticipating the amount of movement and her particular
- 21:26relationship to the other characters was able to sort,
- 21:30Channel, all that discussions with Deb our director, with Doug
- 21:33Chiang. Looking at the history of
- 21:35anybody, that's on that side of the gamut of Star Wars like off,
- 21:40you know, and Imperial officers, anything where I could take the
- 21:43lines that already exist and kind of recalibrate them for
- 21:48this new character who then kind of she is slightly, she fits
- 21:52with inquisitors but she's got her own will.
- 21:55So she's sort of the least ice would say /e of them, she sort
- 21:59of see Serious. And in terms of her her, you
- 22:04know, she did, she kind of has this naturalness to her.
- 22:08That I think the other ones are, you know, covered in the the
- 22:13symbols of being who they are. She is more about the form
- 22:17following the function of what she needs to do.
- 22:20So her armor is developed in a way that sort of helps, you
- 22:25know, not get in the way of all the physicality that she's going
- 22:28to be employing her cape. The split in the back for
- 22:31Mobility. There's the I used kind of
- 22:37historical armor reference to kind of see where all the joints
- 22:40would make sense, but also needing to pay attention to
- 22:42where the other inquisitors were their armor.
- 22:45Paring it down a little bit. There's this cool detail, which
- 22:50depending on when you kind of see it in this picture, she has
- 22:52a, I remember she came up, Moses came up with a great nickname
- 22:56for this detail, and we called it, the spine.
- 23:00Fine. And at least like a sharp spine
- 23:02that's running down the center, front of her of that leather
- 23:05bodice, it's all leather. Her armor is molded leather.
- 23:08Wow. So yeah, I guess I could go on
- 23:13forever about every single detail.
- 23:15It's it's a lot. Well, I think I remember seeing
- 23:20this though, telling Elizabeth, I was like, this is probably my
- 23:23favorite Star Wars armor I've ever seen.
- 23:25If I were to pick my armor, it would be this one.
- 23:28I probably went rock it as well. But you know it's badass.
- 23:32Yeah, thank you. And I wanted to make sure
- 23:35because, you know, I feel like armor and not just in Star Wars,
- 23:39but when armor is done for women, there ends up being this
- 23:44femaleness to the it, a lot of the time, not all the time, but
- 23:48how do you resolve that? How do you give her that sort of
- 23:52the power of the gender-free power of just power without
- 23:55gender attached to it, right? Like you do with the fact that
- 23:59she has A body that is biologically constructed in a
- 24:03way that armor doesn't necessarily armor.
- 24:05Historically wasn't developed for that shape.
- 24:08You know, the anatomy of a woman is not friendly to how armor is
- 24:12supposed to begin. So this was a great.
- 24:16I feel like we got, you know, taking from all those from that
- 24:21palette of information and his Star Wars history, and history
- 24:25historical history. We can put this which I was I
- 24:29was I You feel very, very close to this armor.
- 24:31I was one of the first things that I designed, that's so cool.
- 24:35Yeah, we'll definitely shows, I love that set of armor.
- 24:38So this series sees the return of Darth Vader.
- 24:41And I looked up the stat right before.
- 24:43Why I think it's so fascinating. About Darth Vader that the total
- 24:46amount of screen time. We see Darth Vader and George
- 24:49Lucas's Star Wars is only 36 minutes which was shocking to
- 24:53me. So come to Obi-Wan, it's kind of
- 24:57exciting because we really don't see this armor.
- 25:00As much as we think we do. It's just so embedded in our
- 25:02heads. Yeah.
- 25:03So it really adds to the mystery and the horror of Darth Vader.
- 25:07So I don't get the asses too often but what was it like
- 25:09working with Darth Vader? Well yeah I mean it's um, so
- 25:16when you get a job like this and you have this responsibility I
- 25:22even though like, with some distance, I can kind of nerd out
- 25:24about it like oh my God, like scream into a pillow.
- 25:27Yeah. But when you You know, but the
- 25:30sort of the terror of reality sets in with all the steaks and
- 25:35the responsibilities and so I kind of couldn't go there yet.
- 25:39I had to like, respect the fact that it was bigger than me and
- 25:44respect the challenge that lay beneath it and respect the fact
- 25:48that I couldn't get cocky about it.
- 25:50I couldn't, you know, like it's two of those moments in cinema
- 25:55history looks and in cinema history that's like Any change
- 26:00you're going to make? And I say the change with the
- 26:03most, the biggest level of respect.
- 26:04You can Mountain, we had to let's say, augment some things,
- 26:09change some things that were hopefully, imperceptible.
- 26:13I mean, there's obviously people who are going to look at it and
- 26:16know exactly what we did. But anything, we like that
- 26:19there's an absolute necessity to it 441.
- 26:24When you design a thing like this for another body, another
- 26:28head, another face There are things that have to fit that
- 26:32person, otherwise it's going to look, it does, it has to fit it.
- 26:36That person is still performing something they need to embody.
- 26:40This, this whole thing, it cannot feel like a Halloween
- 26:44costume, right? So, so there were changes that
- 26:48we had to make to the armor that are imperceptible.
- 26:51In the sense that we've paid so much attention to making sure
- 26:54that you don't see the change. Or you don't read it as much as
- 26:59like. Oh, let's just make it blue.
- 27:01It's not that kind of change its engineering changes, right?
- 27:04We have different materials at our disposal in 2020 and 2021
- 27:09than they did in the 70s. So we could make things lighter
- 27:12and more flexible. If it's still read as hard and
- 27:15armor like, and pay attention to what follows version was, we
- 27:20knew this Vader was going to be more active, more physical, and
- 27:23a lot of the original costume and in suing costumes, as
- 27:27technology is helping the costume industry.
- 27:29We Get more Mobility for our performer.
- 27:32That is not natural to this. The shapes that are present in
- 27:37this costume, the mask that I need to kind of big up.
- 27:40The relationship I had with FBS X in London who kind of created
- 27:43all the pieces for us. This go round and really helped
- 27:47re-engineer some of the inner workings and how things went
- 27:50together, how they stayed on the body?
- 27:52Arturo theater lifts his arms in previous for the costumes.
- 27:57He if you lift your arm the whole Whole top of the armor
- 28:01shifts up and the arm is still down here.
- 28:03You know, it gotta make it so that it feels like it's part of
- 28:07his body. So there were things that we had
- 28:10to. I won't go out on too much about
- 28:13the engineering but the same thing goes, for the helmet.
- 28:15You know, there's more dialogue because he's fighting so much,
- 28:18he has to have better Vision, all these things, the shape of,
- 28:21you know, Hayden's head in the helmet is different from
- 28:25original performers, in that helmet.
- 28:27So weaking, some proportionality, That you still
- 28:30get the Vader and knowing that he's actually a younger Vader at
- 28:34this point, right? So there is an argument to be
- 28:37said that over the the characters aging process that
- 28:41some of that armor would change the way that human bodies change
- 28:43and you start wearing different clothes when you get older, you
- 28:46know, I don't want to cheapen it like that, but that's part of
- 28:49the justification for needing to adapt things because a body
- 28:53changes over time, right? So but hopefully I will just
- 28:57quickly wrap the Darth Vader discussion up with you asked
- 29:01about, were you excited screaming into a pillow?
- 29:03Well, because I had to actually me and my amazing team in LA.
- 29:08And, and also, our amazing team in London, that was
- 29:10manufacturing, the pieces and putting it together.
- 29:12And we were doing all these remote things.
- 29:14We were also weighted by the responsibility that we couldn't
- 29:18get that excited. But there were a few moments
- 29:20where we all turned back into our teenage selves, which was
- 29:23the first faint fitting with Hayden.
- 29:25Putting it on the second time was when Starting on Obi-Wan was
- 29:3318 months out from shooting. So this was the first thing we
- 29:37worked on because we knew about the physicality and how much how
- 29:40long it was going to take to calibrate everything.
- 29:43So 18 months later, he walks on set.
- 29:46After all the work that's been going every day hours and hours
- 29:49of work on both sides of globe shows up on set and the 200
- 29:53people working on the set who haven't been in that process.
- 29:57Darth Vader comes out and everybody who's So serious
- 30:00working, all the equipment went drop to the ground.
- 30:04Everybody would spread of they played the music.
- 30:08You know, he entered on set with the music and everybody turned
- 30:12into a teenager, you know, it was just amazing.
- 30:14I literally just got chills right now, that was an amazing
- 30:18and that was probably, the moment was like, oh yeah, I got
- 30:22to work on that. Yeah, buddy, it's so exciting.
- 30:27Just like from a costume design point of view to like that.
- 30:30That's what made their failure. So cool in this series, as
- 30:32you're right, he was able to move his arms which to maybe
- 30:35regular people. You think oh the yeah, well he's
- 30:37moving his arms but to us it's like he's moving.
- 30:40He's able to get it you now because it's costume is allowing
- 30:42him to. That's just such a cool concept
- 30:45and yeah, just appreciate you. That's so cool.
- 30:52Another really cool scene was this flashback with Obi-Wan and
- 30:55Anakin. I was so impressed by it.
- 30:58I love the costumes. And because I was like, I felt
- 31:01like it was ripped right from the, you know, the prequel
- 31:04series and I was like, well, child.
- 31:06Yeah, these weren't just like hanging around from 2005.
- 31:11So yeah, no. I mean, I have the great
- 31:14privilege of getting to go to the lucasfilm archives and study
- 31:18the costumes as a Wonder for archivist.
- 31:20There Lena, who showed me, everything original costumes.
- 31:24I mean, even from the 70s. So I spent quite a lot of time
- 31:27up there looking and taking photos.
- 31:30And then when we knew what the scene was going to be and what
- 31:33parts we were going to need to match.
- 31:35We couldn't take the clothes with us a lot and a lot of
- 31:38costume projects you get to borrow the original thing and
- 31:42copy it. You know, you have your tailors
- 31:44kind of do precise measurements, you can hold the Fabrics up, do
- 31:48tests with die. Really, just get up there and do
- 31:51an exact match like a replica match.
- 31:54But this and this version we couldn't take the costume of
- 31:57they're so precious. And And rightfully so you don't
- 32:01want them leaving the building. I mean, what am I going to do?
- 32:03Carry them on my carry in my carry-on but you're not going to
- 32:05check them in your career is really like so we could try but
- 32:12you know like the Dead Sea Scrolls into India.
- 32:17So I basically had a good relationship with Alan up the
- 32:22archives and when we looked at our pictures and an amazing
- 32:29buyer On the team Elise who was so like, she's also an
- 32:33incredible Star Wars nerd. She was put the responsibility
- 32:37on. She was like, you could see the
- 32:38anxiety when she knew we had to copy this costume.
- 32:41She wasn't like, oh yeah, it's kind of oatmeal and a kind of a
- 32:44loose weave, and yeah, you probably get away with this.
- 32:46No, no. Like every time she wanted to
- 32:49present me like, okay, so the sash I've looked at the pictures
- 32:52that you put these boards together she like zoomed in
- 32:54closely she went back and watch the movie.
- 32:56She did a version of what I had already done because she needed
- 32:59to understand. For herself Alina I would ask
- 33:02her. Okay.
- 33:03We're looking at the distance between the end of the Sash and
- 33:06the beginning of the seamen. And can you do this precise
- 33:09measurement? I would do a little draw over on
- 33:11my iPad of like this looks like it might be 4 inches in this
- 33:15picture but in this picture looks like 2 inches.
- 33:16Can you do remember? So it was like a like a you
- 33:20know, like an archaeological matching.
- 33:22Like you imagine that there's a piece missing from a statue that
- 33:25they found in ancient Rome and for the museum version they had
- 33:28to fill that piece in so like All the science in the mines
- 33:31that go into like, filling out in a faithful way.
- 33:34That's what we did for these costumes.
- 33:37And I'll tell you the payoff was hearing, you just say that right
- 33:41now, but the first payoff was Hayden walking into the room,
- 33:45putting the stuff on and just seeing the look on his face like
- 33:50he was he just, it was amazing. I have to tell you it was an
- 33:55amazing moment. Like I felt something else was
- 33:58happening in the room. Well, I mean, it's amazing.
- 34:02I feel proud to knowing that he had that moment.
- 34:04It just feels like a full circle payoff moment for everyone, who
- 34:07loved the movies, everyone who worked on the movies in the
- 34:10past, it's just a awesome moment.
- 34:13And as a final question, you know, this was such a highly
- 34:17anticipated series, you had an Incredible Crew so I'm just
- 34:20asking it final thoughts and what did this project mean to
- 34:23you? Yeah I mean I to be honest, I
- 34:26think I'm still processing what it means.
- 34:29You know like I had never been to a Star Wars celebration and I
- 34:35went to the Star Wars celebration which we premiered
- 34:38the first two episodes of this and I knew intellectually, you
- 34:43know, I grew up with the 70s versions and I was obsessed with
- 34:46my brother was a huge collector and for me, probably two things.
- 34:52Really threw me for a basically knocked me backwards one was the
- 34:58response at Star Wars. Celebration was just like it was
- 35:03this palpable I don't know. The energy of excitement,
- 35:07anticipation and happiness from seeing these characters, come
- 35:12back to life and the and the way we did like that's it's not a
- 35:16paper reaction, you know it's not a like I don't know.
- 35:19It's just like a religious experience or something.
- 35:22Yeah. Moved and I was moved by how
- 35:25moved people were and I was so excited that I was Bad.
- 35:30So I don't think I quite understood before even though I
- 35:35was excited and I knew what was potentially coming.
- 35:38I do I still don't think I've been able digest like what it
- 35:41actually means to have been able to have my hand as part of this
- 35:44incredibly his cut like this cultural Touchstone, right.
- 35:49The other moment was when I forgot my first action figures
- 35:51because as a kid, I was like we were so obsessed with those
- 35:56action figures as those. I mean, my brother have like the
- 35:59fatty Played with and then he had the set that he never took
- 36:02out of the box and then there is a set and like if he couldn't
- 36:05find all of them, you know, and then I found recently cleaning
- 36:08out my mom's in my mom's house, like going through old closets
- 36:12stashes the stuff, she never gave to us, but when I got the
- 36:18first action figure, Reva the new Obi-Wan like all that stuff.
- 36:22I was like so many cool and like, you know, it just brought
- 36:25back a lot of childhood stuff that was.
- 36:28Yeah, I'm not sure that I'm able To actually describe the
- 36:31feeling, but it's pretty cool. Yeah, amazing, super cool.
- 36:34Are you able to, like, check the action figures for accuracy's to
- 36:40while you're shooting these things you're actually thinking
- 36:43about? Well, when you're doing your job
- 36:45but there's after a scene has been established and there's a
- 36:48little bit of time in the actors waiting to go to their next
- 36:52change or their next scene. There was a section where you
- 36:55would go and scan the costume. And I was always, I tried to
- 36:58like, I was probably there. By the time we were so busy and
- 37:01spread thin, but every time I knew that the scam was going to
- 37:05end up as details on action figure.
- 37:07So I tried with all my might be there to kind of make sure like
- 37:12nothing was folded in weird or like the shoulders were in the
- 37:15right place or, you know, because it's the information
- 37:17that then goes to like all the other people that are going then
- 37:21interpret your work and I can't be there to answer those
- 37:24questions so that the answer has to be kind of right there.
- 37:27And so me and key members of the team assistant design.
- 37:30I was supervisor of the people who take care of these
- 37:32characters on set. They were all we were all doing
- 37:35that simultaneously to making the film the series.
- 37:39Excuse me. Wow, that's so cool.
- 37:41I didn't know designers. Did that costume designer suits
- 37:45Aurora and larvae. Thank you so much for coming.
- 37:47This was awesome. It was so exciting to meet you
- 37:50and we're just so happy for you. Congratulations, such a great
- 37:53project. Thank you so much.
- 37:56Thank you very excited, to talk to you.
- 38:02You're out of costume. Blogcast is hosted and produced
- 38:06by Elizabeth Joy, glass, and Spencer Williams.
- 38:09Our audio engineering and editing is done by Dan White.
- 38:14Follow us on Instagram, at the art of costume pod or visit the
- 38:18art of costume blogcast.com. For all blogcast updates, if you
- 38:23want to support the show, go to the art of costume.com /.
- 38:28Pause store. For more costume reviews deep,
- 38:31Dives and interviews, head over to the art of costume.com a Blog
- 38:36dedicated to highlighting the best in costume design.
- 38:29For more costume reviews deep, Dives and interviews, head over
- 38:34to the art of costume.com a Blog dedicated to highlighting the
- 38:38best in costume design.