Latest / So That's Why / Why Do Some People Tan While Others Don't?
Transcript
- 0:05Jen: Welcome to the So That's Why podcast, where we unpack the
- 0:07science behind everyday questions.
- 0:09I'm Jen.
- 0:10Chris: I'm Chris.
- 0:11Jamie: And I'm Jamie.
- 0:12Jen: Okay.
- 0:12So picture two people lying on the same beach, the same hour, under the same sun.
- 0:19One gets up golden brown.
- 0:21The other one gets rough- gets up, and they are roughly the color of a tomato.
- 0:27So why do some people tan while others don't?
- 0:31Jamie: I'll be up front.
- 0:32I'm one of the annoying ones.
- 0:33I go brown just by walking out of the car.
- 0:35Chris, though, I think you're a tomato in this scenario, aren't you?
- 0:39Chris: Well, I've been called worse, let's be honest.
- 0:40But no, you- you're absolutely right, yeah.
- 0:42Two minutes of weak British sunshine, and I'm lightly poached.
- 0:46And here's the part that most people don't understand enough.
- 0:48So whether you can tan at all is really not about the sun or how hard
- 0:54you try, it's down to your genes, and it's settled before you were even born
- 0:58Jen: Yeah, and that's the bit that surprised me the most because we
- 1:01treat tanning like a skill that you build up over a summer, but
- 1:06you either can do it or you can't, and trying harder changes nothing.
- 1:13But we'll get to how that works later.
- 1:15Jamie: Before we do, can I check something?
- 1:17I've heard people s- something that I've heard people swear by for
- 1:20years, the idea of a base tan, the idea being that some people go on
- 1:24a sunbed before they go on holiday-
- 1:26Jen: Mm
- 1:26… Jamie: so that they don't burn when they're out on their holiday.
- 1:28Is, is there anything in that?
- 1:30Jen: Well, it's worth being, you know, fair to it because it isn't a
- 1:34total myth, but it might as well be.
- 1:37So a tan, it does add a little bit of protection.
- 1:41It's just nowhere near as much as people imagine.
- 1:44Chris: Yeah, you're absolutely right, and in sun protection we talk about
- 1:47SPF, which is the sun protection factor.
- 1:50So a tan is worth an SPF of two to four.
- 1:54Jen: Mm.
- 1:55Chris: So a tanned you therefore, um, being two to four times better
- 1:59protected than an untanned you.
- 2:02But let's be honest, the lowest SPF that anyone would ever sensibly recommend as
- 2:06meaningful is about 15 or, or higher.
- 2:08So SPF two to four is pointless.
- 2:11It's like holding a single sheet of paper over your head in a
- 2:14downpour and hoping for the best.
- 2:15Jamie: So you'll still get soaked, but you feel like you've tried.
- 2:18Jen: Yeah.
- 2:18Absolutely.
- 2:19Pretty much.
- 2:20I remember growing up in the '80s and they sold factor two and factor four in shops.
- 2:24Do you remember that?
- 2:25I
- 2:25Chris: do.
- 2:25It was like in carrot oil or olive oil-
- 2:28Jen: Yeah
- 2:28… Chris: so people literally kind of- Yeah Fried … frying themselves in the sun.
- 2:31It's, you know-
- 2:32Jen: Yeah, don't see that now … it's
- 2:33Chris: scary.
- 2:34Jen: So the real question is why some of us make a decent
- 2:37tan and others just go red.
- 2:39That
- 2:39Chris: is the question, and this all comes down to pigmentation.
- 2:44So to start things off for the fact fans out there- … did you know that whatever
- 2:48your skin tone, so, um, you have roughly the same density of pigment making
- 2:53cells in your skin, and it's about 1,200 cells per square millimeter of skin?
- 2:59So that's whether your skin is very fair or very dark.
- 3:02Jamie: So hang on.
- 3:03The same number for everyone.
- 3:04So it isn't that darker skin simply has more of these pigment cells.
- 3:08Chris: That's right.
- 3:09Jen: Yeah, and that's an assumption that, you know, almost everybody would
- 3:13make, but it actually, it's wrong because the same number, we all have
- 3:18the same number of pigment factories.
- 3:20Mm. The difference is what those factories are making.
- 3:23Chris: Exactly, and the pigment we're talking about here is melanin.
- 3:26So melanin is the skin's own sunscreen, but here's the important
- 3:30bit, that skin doesn't make more melanin because sunshine is healthy.
- 3:35It's making more melanin because the ultraviolet light has triggered a, a
- 3:38protective response after the event.
- 3:41Jamie: So the tan isn't the protection itself.
- 3:43It's the skin putting more protection in place after it's been exposed.
- 3:48Offering only very marginal extra protection.
- 3:50Chris: Mm-hmm.
- 3:50Jen: Yeah, and that's essentially what a tan is.
- 3:53So the UV damages the skin, and the tan is like the skin toughening up
- 3:58in response, which is why a tan, as it, you know, as nice as it might
- 4:03look, is never a sign of health.
- 4:05It's a sign that the skin's already taken a hit.
- 4:08Chris: And it's so important, isn't it, because that's the fundamental
- 4:10point that gets misunderstood.
- 4:12A tan is a repair job.
- 4:13It's not a glow of good health.
- 4:16Jamie: So every holiday photo where somebody says, "Look how healthy I look-
- 4:19"… is technically a close-up of skin damage.
- 4:21Chris: Yeah.
- 4:21Jen: Yeah, it is, but let's talk about the damage itself, 'cause
- 4:25it's quite specific, isn't it?
- 4:27And Chris, we know that this is your speciality area.
- 4:30Chris: It is.
- 4:30I've done a lot in the area of sun protection over the years, and,
- 4:33uh, I do feel passionate about it because of misinformation and
- 4:36just poor campaigns out there.
- 4:37Mm-hmm.
- 4:38So if we start with the what's going on chemistry-wise.
- 4:41So ultraviolet rays within sunlight have different wavelengths.
- 4:45The longer wavelengths are known as UVA, with the more
- 4:49medium wavelengths known as UVB.
- 4:51So UVA penetrates deep into the skin, with UVB penetrating into the outermost
- 4:57layers of the skin and triggering most of the burning and tanning that we see.
- 5:00Jamie: So the same light that burns Chris is the light that tans me.
- 5:04It just lands differently depending on who's underneath it.
- 5:07Jen: Yeah, and that's the key to the whole thing.
- 5:09So what UVB does is it causes damage inside your skin cells, and the cell
- 5:15notices, and then there's a protect- there's a protein called p53, which
- 5:20is also nicknamed the guardian of the genome, which I think is such a cool name.
- 5:25Spots it, and then that raises the alarm.
- 5:27Chris: Yeah, Matt'd be naming a new TV show The Guardian
- 5:30of the Genome, wouldn't he?
- 5:30Jen: Yeah, yeah.
- 5:31Chris: Volume three.
- 5:33Um, and that alarm that you mentioned is the signal that tells the pigment
- 5:36cells to start making more melanin, uh, to try and fend off that UV damage.
- 5:40But however, as we said earlier, the damage always comes first,
- 5:42so it's after the event.
- 5:44Jen: Mm-hmm.
- 5:44Jamie: So the tan literally can't happen unless the DNA gets damaged first.
- 5:48The damage is the thing that places the order for new melanin.
- 5:52Jen: And here's the precise bit because people muddle it.
- 5:54So tanning and burning aren't one thing at different strengths.
- 5:58They're two completely different processes.
- 6:00So a burn is your skin being injured and inflamed, while a tan
- 6:05is something active and protective.
- 6:07Your skin's manufacturing pigment, albeit in response to damage.
- 6:11So whether you can pull off that second one at all comes down to your
- 6:16genes, not to how much sun you get.
- 6:19Chris: That's right, and here's the catch, even for those who can do it and can tan.
- 6:22Mm. So a proper protective tan takes a couple of days to come in, uh, and
- 6:27come up fully, so it does nothing for the sun you're getting today.
- 6:30And whatever your, uh, you build in terms of that tan, you don't keep.
- 6:35Uh, plus it's only offering that very small amount of protection
- 6:37anyways we've already covered.
- 6:38Jen: Mm.
- 6:39Jamie: So it's protection that turns up late and leaves early.
- 6:41Classic.
- 6:42Yeah.
- 6:43Jen: Pretty much.
- 6:43Yeah.
- 6:44And your skin replaces itself anyway, doesn't it, every four weeks.
- 6:47So those pigmented cells that tan, those cells get pushed up, shed, and swapped for
- 6:53fresh pale ones, which is why a tan fades and why it's never lasting protection.
- 6:59Jamie: Okay, but here's what I still don't get.
- 7:01I go brown just by standing near a window.
- 7:04Chris goes the color of a London bus.
- 7:06Same number of cells, same alarm, so why the difference?
- 7:10Chris: Yeah, I really do go the color of a London bus, actually.
- 7:12It's quite, quite depressing really.
- 7:13But anyway, um, so this comes down to the most critical point when
- 7:17it comes to melanin, that there isn't one melanin, there are two.
- 7:20There is eumelanin and pheomelanin.
- 7:23So eumelanin is the darker one, uh, it's darker in color, whereas
- 7:27pheomelanin is more reddish to yellow.
- 7:29So they behave completely differently, and if you imagine your, um, pigment
- 7:34cells as kind of little printing shops, the question isn't how many you've got,
- 7:39it's which melanin cartridges there are.
- 7:42Jamie: Eumelanin and pheomelanin.
- 7:44One, one might almost say Jamie melanin and Chris melanin.
- 7:47Catchy.
- 7:48Yeah.
- 7:48The dark one and the red one.
- 7:50Chris: That's so harsh, isn't it?
- 7:51But fair.
- 7:52Jen: It's nice that I'm escaping this all.
- 7:55So yeah, eumelanin is the dense, dark pigment, and it's the more protective
- 8:01of the two, and that absorbs and safely dissipates more UV than pheomelanin.
- 8:08Jamie: So eumelanin is the form of melanin that gives you the bronze tone and does
- 8:12actually contribute some protection, the one I'm evidently running in my body.
- 8:16Chris: That's it, and the kinda red-yellow corner is pheomelanin, and
- 8:19that's the one I'm more loaded with.
- 8:21But there's a, a thing here to take into account that not only is pheomelanin much
- 8:26less effective at dealing with UV light, um, but when sunlight hits pheomelanin,
- 8:31it can actually trigger oxidative stress, contribute to further damage.
- 8:36Jen: Which is, it's almost unfair, isn't it?
- 8:39I know.
- 8:39So for some people, the pigment isn't even neutral, it just works
- 8:43against them even without much sun.
- 8:45Jamie: So Chris's skin isn't just failing him, it's quietly
- 8:48making things a bit worse.
- 8:50No wonder you go off like a warning light
- 8:52Chris: Yes, thanks, Jamie.
- 8:53The man who stands near a window and tans anyway.
- 8:55You know, we're all delighted for you.
- 8:57Jen: Love it.
- 8:58So Chris, what actually determines the type and the
- 9:02amount of melanin in your skin?
- 9:04Chris: Yeah, so this is largely down to your genes.
- 9:06So certain genes influence whether your pigment cells produce more
- 9:09eumelanin or more pheomelanin.
- 9:12So people with more pheomelanin have, uh, fair skin, freckles.
- 9:16They're often red or blonde-haired, and are much more likely to burn than tan.
- 9:22Jamie: So somewhere in Chris's genetics, there's a switch firmly in
- 9:25the pheomelanin on position, but the eumelanin switch is pretty much off.
- 9:30Chris: Yeah, that's pretty accurate, Jamie, and it's the ultimate
- 9:32answer here, uh, to the question of why you tan and why I don't.
- 9:36So when sun hits, your skin can crank out the darker eumelanin pigment.
- 9:40You go that kinda nice bronze color and have a bit of protection, whereas
- 9:44mine is predominantly pheomelanin, so I won't go particularly brown,
- 9:47but I most definitely will burn.
- 9:50Jamie: So it was never that I tan harder than you.
- 9:53Your skin's just got nothing to tan with.
- 9:55Jen: Yeah, that's the heart of it, and the extreme version is the classic redhead.
- 10:00So around 1 in 20 make almost entirely pheomelanin, the reddish
- 10:06pigment, and barely any of the protective eumelanin, so they burn
- 10:10and freckle however careful they are.
- 10:12So it's not willpower failing, it's just the melanin that they were handed.
- 10:17Chris: That's it.
- 10:18I mean, I always used to joke that I've got so many freckles and they, I get
- 10:21millions more when I go in the sun.
- 10:22The only way I'd actually ever get a tan is if they all join up-
- 10:24Yeah … I've got one big freckle.
- 10:26Yeah.
- 10:26Um, but dermatologists often describe skin using what's
- 10:30known as the Fitzpatrick scale.
- 10:32So this grades your skin from one to six based on how readily it burns and
- 10:36tans- Mm … in response to sunlight.
- 10:38So, um, a Fitzpatrick type one is very fair skin, uh, that almost always burns
- 10:44and rarely tans, while type six at the other end of the scale is deeply
- 10:48pigmented skin that rarely burns.
- 10:50Mm. And this Fitzpatrick scale was, um, originally developed in the '70s
- 10:55to help doctors choose safe doses for certain light-based treatments.
- 10:59Jamie: So where do the three of us land on this scale?
- 11:01Chris: Yeah, so on the Fitzpatrick scale, I'm a one, probably
- 11:04unsurprisingly, maybe borderline two.
- 11:06There are some people a, a little bit paler than me, believe it or not.
- 11:10Um, so I've got … There's very little of the dark eumelanin pigment,
- 11:14so I've got no real tanning ability, almost no built-in protection.
- 11:18So my bare skin is about an SPF of two maximum, so pointless.
- 11:24Jen: Oh, it's not that bad, Chris.
- 11:27I'm a, I'm probably a two, so I'm not quite as fair-skinned as Chris.
- 11:32And Jamie, I'd put you somewhere around about a three or maybe a four with more
- 11:37eumelanin and the greater ability to tan and more natural protection from the UV.
- 11:42Um, and I think in very dark skin around, they're around a Fitzpatrick type six,
- 11:49I think researchers have estimated the natural protection may be roughly
- 11:53equivalent to an SPF of around 10 to 13, but that's only, like, a rough comparison.
- 12:00Jamie: Which still isn't much compared to a bottle of factor 50.
- 12:02Jen: Mm.
- 12:03Chris: It's so true, and that's why some people get caught out by this because
- 12:06people can assume that they've got darker skin tones, that they're protected.
- 12:10But as I say, SPF 13 at a max, it's not a lot, is it?
- 12:13Jamie: No.
- 12:14Chris: Uh, so even the best built-in protection sits way below the lowest
- 12:18sun protection factor that we would ever recommend, which is, I'd say 15, but
- 12:21it's probably more likely 25 these days.
- 12:23Mm. So no skin type, wherever you sit on the Fitzpatrick scale, does the job alone.
- 12:29Jen: And it's important to point out, isn't it, that every one of
- 12:32those skin types can still burn, and every one can be damaged.
- 12:35So the old version of the scale claimed that the darker skin never burns or
- 12:42gets damaged, which simply isn't true.
- 12:44Chris: It's not, and that myth does real harm, doesn't it?
- 12:47Mm. Because people with darker skin are often led to believe
- 12:49they, they don't need to worry.
- 12:51Um, but it's really serious, so skin cancers can end up getting spotted later.
- 12:55Yeah.
- 12:56Um, so the added protection is real, but in the scheme of things, the uplift versus
- 13:01paler skin types is not that big a deal.
- 13:03Jamie: So I never burn quietly turns into I never check, and that's the
- 13:07bit that actually carries a risk.
- 13:09Jen: Yeah, it is, and it works the other way, too.
- 13:12So I'm pretty sure even Jamie would burn if you overdo it, um, but you
- 13:17just get less of a warning sign.
- 13:19Jamie: Yes, that's true.
- 13:20I definitely do.
- 13:21So given some of us, namely no Chrises, are preset to burn, what actually works?
- 13:26Because never go outside is rather a boring, um, way to live your life.
- 13:30Jen: Yeah.
- 13:31Chris: Yeah, and I am unashamedly Captain Sensible when it
- 13:34comes to safety in the sun.
- 13:35I know you call me that anyway, but this is definitely a pet topic for me.
- 13:38Jen: You are
- 13:38owning it today.
- 13:39Chris: Absolutely.
- 13:40I, yeah, I do… I genuinely feel very passionately about this- Mm … um, 'cause
- 13:43I've done a lot of work in this area, and sadly I've seen the, the impact of
- 13:46sun damage, and it's, it's catastrophic.
- 13:49Um, so back to your question, Jamie.
- 13:50The first point to reinforce is that the tan itself isn't doing the protecting.
- 13:55So if you are spending time in the sun, you need something that
- 13:58genuinely is doing that protecting.
- 13:59So I'd recommend a, a good broad spectrum sunscreen, meaning it
- 14:03protects against both UVA and UVB, at an SPF I would say of at least 25.
- 14:08Some people say 15, but I'd go for 25 minimum.
- 14:12And really importantly is reapply it during the day.
- 14:15So if you're on holiday and you've been swimming, you must reapply.
- 14:18It's gonna come off.
- 14:19Even if it says it's water-resistant- Mm … they're not really.
- 14:21They're not that good.
- 14:22And if you're sweating a lot, I dunno about you, I always tend to burn on
- 14:26the forehead- Yeah … 'cause you- I just sweat it off the- Yeah, yeah
- 14:28the kind of receding hairline I've got.
- 14:30Um-
- 14:30Jen: Yeah, plus that you can do, like, the obvious things, can't you?
- 14:33Like wearing extra clothing, um, sitting in the shade, which do even more.
- 14:39And consider the timing when you're sitting out because the midday sun,
- 14:43that is strong stuff, isn't it?
- 14:45And, you know, it's safe to say, isn't it, that, um, the best version of all of these
- 14:51tips are the ones you'll actually do.
- 14:53There's no point in buying a fancy sunscreen that you
- 14:56leave in the bathroom drawer-
- 14:58Chris: Absolutely
- 14:58… Jen: and don't use because- Yeah … obviously that protects nobody.
- 15:01Jamie: Now, I mentioned them before, but I'd like us to talk about sunbeds.
- 15:03Jen: Mm-hmm.
- 15:05Chris: Yeah, and this is another thing, I'm getting on my soapbox today, but I'm,
- 15:08I'm gonna be unashamedly blunt about.
- 15:10Contrary to what some people believe, sunbeds are not a gentler option.
- 15:14They're very concentrated UV, and the real danger is the damage is mostly invisible.
- 15:19You don't get that kind of sunburn, uh, trigger to show
- 15:22you that something's happening.
- 15:24The harm is happening underneath.
- 15:25Jen: Mm.
- 15:26Chris: Um, and so many young people u- are using sunbeds too now.
- 15:29W- it's back in fashion worryingly.
- 15:32But actually starting young sharply raises the risk of
- 15:35serious skin cancer as you age.
- 15:37Mm. So in my personal opinion, sunbeds should be banned.
- 15:40Jen: Mm.
- 15:40Jamie: So when it comes to sunbeds, that single sheet of newspaper in the rainstorm
- 15:43we referred to earlier is now actually a sheet of newspaper soaked in petrol.
- 15:47Yeah.
- 15:47Good to know.
- 15:48Jen: Yeah.
- 15:49And there's another myth that some of, you know, some people might have
- 15:53heard, which is, you know, someone pale moves somewhere, like sunny, like Spain
- 15:58or Australia, and a few years later they look, like, permanently tanned.
- 16:03Surely that proves you can build up a tan over time.
- 16:07Chris: Well, you think so, and it is the most convincing one, isn't it?
- 16:09Mm. But it is a myth.
- 16:10It's actually almost back to what I was saying about getting
- 16:11one freckle and it joining up-
- 16:14Jen: Yeah
- 16:14… Chris: to produce the tan.
- 16:15Because if those people are a, a type I or a II on the Fitzpatrick scale, they
- 16:21haven't built a tan or trained their skin to somehow tan because they can't.
- 16:25Y- the, our biol- biology doesn't allow it.
- 16:27So what you're actually seeing on those people who are lucky enough to
- 16:30go and emigrate to the sun- … is years of accumulated UV injury.
- 16:34So the skin is going darker in, in more and more patches and patchy places.
- 16:38Jen: Mm.
- 16:38Jamie: And I suppose those patches don't come alone.
- 16:41Chris: No.
- 16:41Jen: No.
- 16:42They come with rough, leathery skin, wrinkles, age spots,
- 16:48a patchy, uneven color.
- 16:50It isn't that your skin is learning to cope, it's the skin being worn down,
- 16:54and unlike a real tan, it doesn't fade.
- 16:58Chris: That's right.
- 16:58I mean, you've, you've basically worn down its resilience to the sun.
- 17:02Yeah.
- 17:02Um, and it's, it's effectively a record of damage.
- 17:04It's not a healthy bronze.
- 17:06And the thing is, it carries a real risk of skin cancer down the line.
- 17:10Jen: Mm.
- 17:10Jamie: So you generally genuinely can't train your skin into it.
- 17:14It's the one thing where trying harder actively makes things worse.
- 17:18Jen: Yeah.
- 17:19And before anyone swears off daylight forever, a bit of scor-
- 17:24a bit of sun isn't the enemy.
- 17:25So your skin uses UV to make vitamin D. You can, you know, you
- 17:30can get that, um, more safely from food or a supplement though, than
- 17:34actually baking yourself in the sun.
- 17:36Chris: Yeah.
- 17:37And, and it's so important 'cause w- we're not anti-sun, are we?
- 17:39Yeah At all.
- 17:39So yeah, there, there are loads of health benefits to the sun.
- 17:42Mm. It's all about safety.
- 17:44Mm-hmm.
- 17:44That, that's what we're talking about here.
- 17:46And, um, when it comes to vitamin D, it's something that we covered in the,
- 17:50the vitamin D episode of the podcast, and it's really important for people to
- 17:54understand this, that you only need a little bit of UV exposure to stimulate
- 17:58vitamin D production in the skin.
- 17:59Mm. So the final myth I'm gonna bust here is- The concept that applying
- 18:03a, like a really high SPF sun product will inhibit the skin's ability to
- 18:09produce vitamin D, that's not the case.
- 18:12Mm. You only need a very small amount of UV exposure to produce that vitamin D.
- 18:17Um, but as you say, Jen, you know, you can get vitamin D from foods or supplements
- 18:21too, meaning you can do it safely without kind of risking overexposure to the sun
- 18:26in that quest for good vitamin D levels.
- 18:30Jen: Okay, so pulling it all together, we've got the same number of cells,
- 18:34but the pigment they're set to make, the eumelanin or pheomelanin, is mostly
- 18:39fixed by your genes before you were born.
- 18:42Jamie: And the tan itself was never the healthy bit.
- 18:44It's just the skin reacting to damage that has already been done.
- 18:48Jen: So here's the clean answer to where we started.
- 18:51Why do some people tan while others don't?
- 18:54Because tanning ability is genetic, set by how much of the dark
- 18:59protective pigment your skin can make.
- 19:02Um, plenty of it and you tan, very little and the same sun just burns you instead.
- 19:08There's no such thing as a safe tan, and you sadly can't train
- 19:13your skin into making one either.
- 19:16So that's it for this week.
- 19:17Make sure you hit that subscribe button.
- 19:20We're unpacking the science behind everyday questions each week.
- 19:24Tell us in the comments what you'd like us to explore next.
- 19:28Thanks for geeking out with us.
- 19:30But for now, that's it from me.
- 19:31Jamie: That's it
- 19:32Chris: from me.
- 19:33Jamie: That's it from me.
- 19:34Jen: Bye for now