Latest / Family Tree Food Stories / School Lunch: Square Pizza, Mystery Meat, Meal Debt & AI Bento Boxes.
Transcript
- 0:04Nancy A. May: Hello everybody and welcome back to another episode
- 0:07of Family Tree Food and Stories.
- 0:08I am your host, Nancy May
- 0:11Sylvia S. France: And I'm Sylvia France.
- 0:13Welcome back to the table, everyone
- 0:15Nancy A. May: Every week we trace family food mysteries and a little surprising
- 0:19stories behind the food that we all grew up with and eat every single day
- 0:24Sylvia S. France: So before we dive in, a quick mug check.
- 0:28Nancy, what are we raising a glass to today?
- 0:31Nancy A. May: Yeah, our new tradition, the ultimate back to school relay race.
- 0:37To the parents packing lunches at 6:00 AM or earlier
- 0:41Sylvia S. France: And the cafeteria crews firing up the
- 0:43industrial ovens before 10:00 AM
- 0:46Nancy A. May: Cheers to both sides of the kitchen counter.
- 0:49Ching ching or clunk clunk 'cause we have kitchen mugs.
- 0:54And a quick thank you to all of you who are with us here today and listening.
- 0:58We're so glad that you're at our table
- 1:00Sylvia S. France: We really are, and Nancy's got a shout-out of her own today
- 1:04Nancy A. May: I do.
- 1:05A big shout-out to my friend D. Scott Smith in Waco, Texas,
- 1:09host of the Waco Experience.
- 1:11I had such a great time on his show, and you know what?
- 1:15He's a fan of ours as well.
- 1:17And we can't forget Michelle Passoff in St. Petersburg.
- 1:21We got a story about her school lunch a little later on in the episode
- 1:24Sylvia S. France: Well, I love St. Petersburg, as you know,
- 1:27since that's my home base.
- 1:28Love to all our listeners Keep those notes coming, and leave us a review
- 1:33at Podcast.FamilyTreeFoodStories.com.
- 1:37new episodes drop every Thursday.
- 1:39Now, today we're diving into a story most people never realize
- 1:43when they look at a cafeteria tray
- 1:46Nancy A. May: You got it From square pizza to ketchup debates
- 1:50and even bento boxes and, well, it is 2026, AI meal planners
- 1:56Sylvia S. France: how the everyday school lunch actually started
- 1:59as a matter of national security
- 2:01Nancy A. May: And you know what?
- 2:02When we think about school lunch, we tend to look back
- 2:05through a thick haze of nostalgia
- 2:08Sylvia S. France: Or I like to think about it as Cheeto-dusted glasses.
- 2:13Nancy A. May: For sure
- 2:14Sylvia S. France: but bef-before school ever fed us, kids
- 2:16were completely on their own
- 2:18Nancy A. May: And in the late 1800s rural kids walked miles, probably in
- 2:22bare feet and up the hill in the snow
- 2:25Sylvia S. France: Both ways
- 2:26Nancy A. May: in one-room schoolhouses carrying a basket or a tin pale
- 2:28carrying a basket or a tin pail.
- 2:30And you know what, Sylvia?
- 2:32In my hometown of Redding, Connecticut, we actually still had an historic
- 2:36one-room schoolhouse that was used by the local public schools as
- 2:41a living history field trip
- 2:43Sylvia S. France: Well, we have those down in Florida too.
- 2:45There's historical villages across the state from Largo to Bradenton
- 2:50to beautiful downtown Dade City
- 2:53Nancy A. May: Well, I haven't seen them in Florida yet.
- 2:54I'll have to go check them out.
- 2:56But I do love those old buildings.
- 2:58but in big 19th century cities Philly or New York, schools didn't
- 3:04really feed kids at all back then
- 3:05Sylvia S. France: You had to sprint home at noon, eat fast, and sprint
- 3:08all the way back for afternoon classes
- 3:11Nancy A. May: They must have been hungry by the time they got back to school.
- 3:14But then the Industrial Revolution hit and parents worked long factory
- 3:18shifts, and kids didn't have the opportunity to go home anymore Because
- 3:22mom wasn't there to make their lunch
- 3:24Sylvia S. France: Enter the penny lunch movement.
- 3:26Philadelphia, 1894, the Star Center Association started selling warm pea
- 3:32soup or cocoa for literally one cent
- 3:36Nancy A. May: Warm pea soup and cocoa.
- 3:37That does not sound
- 3:39Sylvia S. France: No, it sounds
- 3:40Nancy A. May: combo, right?
- 3:41but Boston launched their own hot lunch program 10 years later in 1908.
- 3:46And imagine, yep, still buying lunch for a penny
- 3:50Sylvia S. France: You get what you pay for.
- 3:52Nancy A. May: For sure
- 3:53Sylvia S. France: Right?
- 3:54And how kids carried those lunches took on a life of its own
- 3:58Nancy A. May: Factory workers like dads carried heavy tin pails, so
- 4:02the kids, predominantly the boys, wanted to look like their dads and
- 4:05made pails out of old tobacco tins
- 4:08Sylvia S. France: Tobacco tins and biscuit boxes with homemade wire handles.
- 4:12That sounds like a disaster in the making
- 4:15Nancy A. May: Yeah, and a tetanus shot for sure.
- 4:17but 1950 changed everything When the Aladdin company put the TV cowboy Hopalong
- 4:22Cassidy on a bright red metal box
- 4:26Sylvia S. France: They sold over 600,000 in one year.
- 4:29Suddenly, your lunchbox was a playground status symbol
- 4:33Nancy A. May: Yeah.
- 4:34Roy Rogers, Mickey Mouse, Star Wars, total status.
- 4:38But between 1950 and 1970, America bought over 120 million metal lunch boxes
- 4:45Sylvia S. France: Though, though those metal boxes had a dark side in the '70s.
- 4:48Yes, a Star Wars pun intended.
- 4:51Parents actually lobbied to ban them
- 4:54Nancy A. May: You know why?
- 4:55Well, that's because the kids were using them like blunt
- 4:58weapons in the playground fights.
- 5:00Yikes.
- 5:01Getting clobbered with a Star Wars box
- 5:04Sylvia S. France: I can imagine it being a mom of three boys how
- 5:07that would be used as a weapon
- 5:09Nancy A. May: Yeah.
- 5:09Hopefully a rock not inside
- 5:11Sylvia S. France: Well, that ushered in the plastic and
- 5:14vinyl era we all grew up with
- 5:16Nancy A. May: And that covers lunch boxes from home.
- 5:19But the story on the cafeteria tray, that's a fun one.
- 5:24That's where the government stepped in
- 5:26Sylvia S. France: Because when you look at a school cafeteria tray, you're
- 5:29actually looking at national history
- 5:32Nancy A. May: I never knew that until now.
- 5:34But this blew my mind, Sylvia, You know, our school lunch system didn't
- 5:38start with just plain old dieticians
- 5:41Sylvia S. France: Nope.
- 5:41It started with a good old military
- 5:44Nancy A. May: Marching down with plastic school lunch trays, I'm sure.
- 5:48But in 1946, Truman signs the National School Lunch Act
- 5:53Sylvia S. France: It was explicitly as a matter of national defense
- 5:57Nancy A. May: Because during World War II, over 40% of draft candidates were
- 6:01turned down or turned away from the military for health or physical reasons
- 6:06Sylvia S. France: Some researchers put malnutrition rejections at roughly
- 6:09one in nine draftees while military leaders told Congress it was even higher
- 6:14Nancy A. May: Now, I love this name because we are talking food.
- 6:18It was General Lewis Hershey.
- 6:21Actually, he testified that malnutrition cost the US over
- 6:24100,000 casualties in the war
- 6:27Sylvia S. France: So Truman signed the act to do two things at once: feed the kids
- 6:32Nancy A. May: And you got it, create a market for post-war
- 6:35agricultural surpluses Now here's the part most people don't know.
- 6:39The government was already feeding kids years before Truman ever signed anything
- 6:46Sylvia S. France: During the Depression, the WPA ran a patchwork school lunch
- 6:49program using surplus crops and hiring cafeteria workers as unemployment relief
- 6:55Nancy A. May: But in 1942, over five million kids in nearly 79,000 schools
- 7:00were already eating subsidized lunches
- 7:03Sylvia S. France: So 1946 didn't invent the idea.
- 7:07It took a decade of piecemeal relief programs and finally
- 7:10made it permanent federal law
- 7:13Nancy A. May: And a generation of American school kids grew up eating
- 7:16off a decision made for soldiers Now, because the government was sitting on
- 7:21massive reserves of surplus cheese, flour, and beef, schools had to get
- 7:26kind of creative with all that stuff
- 7:28Sylvia S. France: Kitchens had to feed hundreds of kids really fast
- 7:32using giant aluminum sheet pans
- 7:35Nancy A. May: Great for sledding and tobogganing in the
- 7:37wintertimes up north, for sure.
- 7:39Which brings us to the ultimate legend, the school cafeteria pizza
- 7:44Sylvia S. France: Uh, the classic rectangle
- 7:48Nancy A. May: And you might be saying, " Why rectangle?" Well, if you have 20
- 7:53minutes to make 50 pans of round dough … round dough is kind of a massive waste of
- 8:00time, and it really is a bad math problem
- 8:04Sylvia S. France: A grid cuts every kid the exact same slice in two seconds flat
- 8:10Nancy A. May: And in 1988, the USDA published the official formula
- 8:14manual specifying pourable crust.
- 8:19Get that one, right?
- 8:20And commodity cheese ratios were marked down to the exact ounce per slice
- 8:27Sylvia S. France: Can you imagine jugs of pourable pizza dough?
- 8:30I
- 8:30Nancy A. May: No, no.
- 8:31It's almost as bad as pourable pancakes.
- 8:34Not good in my book
- 8:35Sylvia S. France: no, no, no.
- 8:36Now, People still debate that portable crust was actually good, but
- 8:40everybody remember it for good or bad
- 8:43Nancy A. May: Yeah, every nonna who's ever lived is rolling
- 8:46over in her grave right now.
- 8:48, Okay, so now we have to jump to 1981
- 8:51- Sylvia S. France: Uh, are you talking the great ketchup debate
- 8:54Nancy A. May: I am
- 8:55Sylvia S. France: To save money, the USDA proposed counting ketchup
- 8:58and pickle relish as vegetables.
- 9:01I think they were listening too much to their kids
- 9:04Nancy A. May: Like yeah, broccoli for sure is not on that list.
- 9:08but a tablespoon of ketchup was considered a full serving of vegetables by the USDA.
- 9:14And you know what?
- 9:15Moms and dads were outraged.
- 9:18And because of that, yep, you got it, the government pulled it immediately
- 9:24Sylvia S. France: That's a really good thing.
- 9:25but it actually explains why kids are so suspicious of their trays.
- 9:30If you couldn't identify it, it instantly became mystery meat
- 9:35Nancy A. May: Yeah, and speaking of mystery meat, Sylvia I
- 9:38have a Bob story for you
- 9:40Sylvia S. France: A yet another Bob story.
- 9:42I
- 9:42Nancy A. May: I know.
- 9:43He's got a load of them.
- 9:45My Bob tells his story about his elementary school days back at the
- 9:50School of the Blessed Sacrament in the Bronx, New York, darling.
- 9:55Sylvia S. France: So okay, tell us.
- 9:56What did Bob say about meatloaf?
- 10:00Nancy A. May: well, he told me that the school meatloaf always
- 10:02had this very distinct and, well, kind of strong and weird smell.
- 10:07And one day he was at home helping his sister feed her cat
- 10:11Sylvia S. France: Oh, no.
- 10:12Nancy A. May: Oh, yes.
- 10:14He opened the can of cat food labeled horse meat, took one whiff
- 10:19and said, "Oh my God, that smells exactly like our school meatloaf
- 10:25Sylvia S. France: Oh, no.
- 10:26Poor Bob.
- 10:27has horse meat, meatloaf, and he has to eat eel.
- 10:31Nancy A. May: Yeah, not good.
- 10:32Eel from another show.
- 10:34But the nuns made him sit there and eat every single bite.
- 10:37I had to ask him that one.
- 10:39And thank goodness, I have to say, that I didn't go to Catholic school.
- 10:43- I'm a proud byproduct of the public school system
- 10:46Sylvia S. France: Me too.
- 10:47That's why we get along so well.
- 10:49Nancy A. May: Right.
- 10:50Sylvia S. France: So listener Michelle wrote In a sweeter note,
- 10:53though, her mom packed cream cheese and grape jelly sandwiches."
- 10:58Nancy A. May: I talked to her and that sounded so sweet.
- 11:01cream cheese and grape jelly.
- 11:03Kind of interesting combo, but it really is a nice story
- 11:06Sylvia S. France: Well, my best combo is peanut butter, butter,
- 11:09and Lay's potato chip sandwiches.
- 11:11That was a favorite of mine.
- 11:13Nancy A. May: I'll have to try that one.
- 11:15Sylvia S. France: Well, let's talk about sloppy joes.
- 11:17The sandwich is locked in this brutal origin dispute that
- 11:21people still get angry about
- 11:23Nancy A. May: Yeah, and I love sloppy joes at school, but Iowa swears a short
- 11:28order cook named Joe added tomato sauce , to a loose meat sandwich in the 1930s.
- 11:33And there's a totally separate legend as well.
- 11:36a Havana bar owner named Jose Garcia had a wet, messy floor in his restaurant,
- 11:42and Ernest Hemingway, who frequented the place, supposedly suggested that
- 11:47they just call the place Sloppy Joes.
- 11:50I can hear him now.
- 11:51Two different stories and two different countries, and nobody can prove that
- 11:55either one invented the actual sandwich.
- 11:59But enter USDA.
- 12:01They didn't care about the romance.
- 12:03They loved the sloppy joe because it was cheap, of course, canned,
- 12:08double of course, and stretched ground beef with fillers forever.
- 12:13And when you've got to feed thousands and thousands of kids,
- 12:17uniformity creates its own economy.
- 12:20. Then, of course, the cafeteria was a slightly different environment, and
- 12:26it was a child's first free market.
- 12:29the playground became a trading floor, and it was brutal.
- 12:33A single peanut butter bar, a cracker, or a snack when you didn't buy your sloppy
- 12:39joe could buy you serious social leverage
- 12:42Sylvia S. France: I wonder if Elon Musk or others honed their
- 12:46negotiating skills on the, playground.
- 12:49Nancy A. May: Probably.
- 12:49Sylvia S. France: I wouldn't be surprised.
- 12:50honestly, , but it got complicated if you brought a packed lunch from home,
- 12:55especially from an immigrant household.
- 12:58You opened up this incredible, aromatic home-cooked meal, and back
- 13:03in the day, it instantly clashed with the hyper-processed corporate
- 13:07packaging on everyone else's tray
- 13:09Nancy A. May: Yeah, I can smell it right now.
- 13:12and 11 years old, you just kinda wanna blend in.
- 13:15But the irony is that looking back, those lunches were a total luxury compared to
- 13:20some of the processed blocks of cheese that we were all fighting over back then
- 13:24Sylvia S. France: But fast-forward to right now, the packed lunch
- 13:26world has completely flipped.
- 13:29It's no longer about hiding your home lunch.
- 13:31It's an absolute status symbol.
- 13:34Have you been on TikTok lately during the back to school season?
- 13:37Nancy A. May: Yeah, I have sadly.
- 13:39But it's an incredibly detailed process of making these bento boxes.
- 13:44They're amazing.
- 13:45… I got anxious just looking at some of them, but the aesthetics and
- 13:49the artwork, totally out of control
- 13:52Sylvia S. France: It's an absolute arms race.
- 13:55It's all built around the rise of the modern multi-tiered bento box.
- 13:59Parents are waking up at 5:00 AM to pack these immaculate
- 14:04leak-proof silicon compartments.
- 14:06We are talking star-shaped cucumbers, berries arranged by color
- 14:10gradient, hand-rolled sushi, little animal-shaped food picks holding
- 14:15together organic turkey pinwheels
- 14:17Nancy A. May: Honestly, they look pretty amazing.
- 14:19, But coming up with new ideas every week takes time and which is why
- 14:24some parents are actually using a lot of AI tools like ChatGPT, Gemini,
- 14:29Claude, and others to plan lunches.
- 14:32I think that's pushing it a little bit much with just peanut
- 14:34butter and jelly works for me
- 14:36Sylvia S. France: And me too.
- 14:37Well, minus the jelly.
- 14:39You can type in what ingredients you have in the fridge, specifically
- 14:43what your child likes, and get a weekly plan in seconds.
- 14:47We went from federal standardized recipes in the 1950s to parents
- 14:52using digital assistants today just to keep lunches varied
- 14:57Nancy A. May: There goes the one bite, no thank you rule,
- 15:00right?
- 15:01But even K through 12 menus are evolving, and companies like Aramark Student
- 15:05Nutrition have decided that they're cutting artificial dyes like Red Dye No.
- 15:1040 ? For over 1.5 million students nationwide.
- 15:15Sylvia S. France: Plus global flavors, gochujang chicken,
- 15:18Hawaiian-style sandwiches.
- 15:20Definitely not our grandmother's mystery meat, or Bob's either
- 15:24Nancy A. May: No, for sure.
- 15:26And if you want to take it to the next level, although this wasn't my
- 15:29college, at college levels today, dining options have expanded even further.
- 15:34Many universities and dining halls are now operating more like full food courts
- 15:40or fancy restaurants and offering wide varieties of freshly prepared foods.
- 15:45Some campuses are even opening their dining facilities to the public and
- 15:49allowing neighbors to purchase meal passes or, get this, lobster night.
- 15:55Sylvia S. France: I know.
- 15:55Wasn't that Cornell or Columbia, one of those two
- 15:58Nancy A. May: One of them, but it's wild.
- 16:00Sylvia S. France: Sign me up for that one.
- 16:01Exactly.
- 16:02It's much better than my sorority food and
- 16:05Nancy A. May: Yeah, and my bean and bacon soup.
- 16:07Sylvia S. France: The worst was Chicken Divine, though.
- 16:09Ugh.
- 16:09So meal debt, food waste, and the fight over who pays right after this
- 16:15Nancy A. May: Stay tuned.
- 16:16We'll be right back
- 16:49So welcome back.
- 16:50Before our break, we brought up the student meal debt, and it's a big one
- 16:56Sylvia S. France: Right as pandemic era free meal programs ended,
- 17:00unpaid balances climbed nationwide
- 17:02Nancy A. May: Which led to heartbreaking situations.
- 17:05A lot of kids with unpaid balances didn't get alternative
- 17:09meals or even a meal at all
- 17:11Sylvia S. France: It's tough for everyone, but eight states have now
- 17:13passed permanent universal free meal laws
- 17:17Nancy A. May: Those are California, Colorado, Maine, Massachusetts,
- 17:22Michigan, Minnesota, New Mexico, and good old Vermont
- 17:27Sylvia S. France: every student gets breakfast and lunch regardless of income
- 17:31Nancy A. May: That's pretty cool, especially if you don't
- 17:33like what's at home with mom.
- 17:35And when every child is served exactly the same in the same way
- 17:39every single day, the old lunch stigma tends to fade dramatically
- 17:44Sylvia S. France: But then there's food waste.
- 17:46Guidelines require specific portions of fruits and vegetables
- 17:50Nancy A. May: And if kids only have 15 minutes to sit down, well, a lot
- 17:53of it ends up in the trash, sadly
- 17:56Sylvia S. France: I know.
- 17:57School waste roughly… half a million tons of food a
- 17:59year worth about $1.7 billion
- 18:04Nancy A. May: Whoa, that's a lot of money and a lot of food, which
- 18:07is why many schools now set up a share table for unopened food
- 18:12or, schedule recess before lunch
- 18:14Sylvia S. France: Scheduling recess actually cuts food waste by almost 40%.
- 18:19Kids eat much better when they aren't rushing to go play
- 18:22Nancy A. May: that makes a lot of sense, and actually it reminds me of
- 18:25a fellow master gardener I know of
- 18:28Sylvia S. France: What did she do?
- 18:29Nancy A. May: Well, a few years back she started a composting
- 18:31program at her daughter's school
- 18:33Sylvia S. France: Wait, composting the actual lunch trash?
- 18:36Half-eaten apples and crusts?
- 18:38Nancy A. May: I know.
- 18:39Kids probably thought it was gross, especially when they see flies.
- 18:42Sylvia S. France: But they like the
- 18:43Nancy A. May: Oh, they'll like the worms for sure, and that's exactly what it was.
- 18:46She taught the kids to sort scraps into bins instead of into the garbage pail
- 18:51Sylvia S. France: I think that's kind of a hard sell for a nine-year-old, honestly
- 18:55Nancy A. May: No, I think it's a good lesson too, and it was at first, but
- 18:58she had them help turn that pile so that they could see how it was working,
- 19:02and within a year, that compost was feeding the school's own vegetable garden
- 19:07Sylvia S. France: so the food waste didn't just disappear.
- 19:09It actually became next year's lunch, uh, in a way
- 19:13Nancy A. May: Kind of.
- 19:14But to plate to garden to plate.
- 19:16So honestly, I think kids need to learn exactly where their food comes from today
- 19:21Sylvia S. France: Glasses up one more time
- 19:23Nancy A. May: Absolutely.
- 19:24This time I think maybe it's orange juice or probably your mimosa.
- 19:28Sylvia S. France: I'll never tell
- 19:29Nancy A. May: To everyone who's ever packed a school lunch, served one,
- 19:33or ate one wondering, " what the heck was in that?" Clink, clink,
- 19:36. Sylvia S. France: Penny soup in the 1890s, character lunchboxes
- 19:39in the 1950s, school menus today.
- 19:42The cafeteria has always reflected how the rest of society eats and lives
- 19:47Nancy A. May: And back-to-school season connects families across the generations.
- 19:51You can't get that out of your mind.
- 19:54A season of new beginnings and quite the side odor of nerves for sure
- 19:58Sylvia S. France: As family historians, we spend a lot of time looking backward
- 20:01at census records and old photographs
- 20:04Nancy A. May: But we're also creating a living history right now for
- 20:07our kids and hopefully your kids
- 20:09Sylvia S. France: So here's your family story prompt for this
- 20:12week, the lunchbox interview.
- 20:15Sit down with a relative or your own child or grandchild and ask three questions
- 20:20Nancy A. May: Or maybe even a neighbor.
- 20:22Start a lunchtime conversation.
- 20:24The first question is, what was your favorite thing to find in your lunchbox?
- 20:28Sylvia S. France: Two, what was the one school meal you absolutely dreaded?
- 20:33Nancy A. May: And three, who usually made your lunch, and
- 20:36what did that morning look like?
- 20:38Sylvia S. France: Write down the answers or record a quick voice
- 20:40note and tuck the story inside your copy of My Family Tree Food Stories
- 20:45Nancy A. May: Of course.
- 20:46And share it with us at Podcast.FamilyTreeFoodStories.com.
- 20:50We love reading your notes, and we love hearing from you, and we might just share
- 20:55yours in one of our upcoming episodes
- 20:57Sylvia S. France: Thanks so much for joining us today.
- 20:59Please leave us a review and share this episode with a friend
- 21:03who loves a good food story
- 21:05Nancy A. May: And we're glad you're here with us.
- 21:07So we'll see you next Thursday when next week we're talking
- 21:11about the dog days of summer
- 21:14Sylvia S. France: There's a fun surprise you'll never guess.
- 21:16Bye everyone.
- 21:17Nancy A. May: Bye-bye
- 21:18Sylvia S. France: Happy cooking and happy experimenting
- 21:21Nancy A. May: Cheers.