Latest / Skin Anarchy / Jan Marini Masterclass: Ingredients In Skincare Formulations & What They Do

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Jan Marini Masterclass: Ingredients In Skincare Formulations & What They Do · Skin Anarchy

• 0:05
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• 1:12
  SPEAKER_02: Hi guys, welcome back to Skin Care Anarchy.
• 1:15
  SPEAKER_02: This is your host, Ecta, and I have the wonderful Jan Marini with me again today.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_02: I am so excited.
• 1:21
  SPEAKER_02: Every time I have an episode recording with Jan, I am just over the moon excited because we learn so much in these episodes.
• 1:29
  SPEAKER_02: I know that you guys learn a lot.
• 1:30
  SPEAKER_02: You always chime in, and I love hearing from you, and I love learning from you about what you learned from Jan.
• 1:37
  SPEAKER_02: So welcome back, Jan.
• 1:38
  SPEAKER_02: I'm so excited to host you.
• 1:40
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm really excited to dive into this topic of ingredients today.
• 1:44
  SPEAKER_03: Thank you.
• 1:45
  SPEAKER_03: It's it's it's great to be back.
• 1:48
  SPEAKER_03: It's been a while.
• 1:49
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, it has.
• 1:50
  SPEAKER_02: And I've missed you.
• 1:52
  SPEAKER_02: I've missed your knowledge and your wisdom.
• 1:54
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm really, really excited to kind of pick your brain about this topic because it's so important.
• 1:59
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and the topic for everyone listening, um, it's taking the mystery out of skincare ingredients.
• 2:04
  SPEAKER_02: And so this is really gonna be dedicated to all of those big Hallmark ingredients you guys hear about, and some other ones that you might have not really learned about that much yet, you know.
• 2:14
  SPEAKER_02: So we're gonna just get started, Jan, um, about talking about your overall perspective about ingredients.
• 2:20
  SPEAKER_02: If you could, you know, kind of tell us a little bit about that mystery and hype and you know, all the inaccuracy that we see surrounding skincare ingredients and your perspective about that as an open.
• 2:31
  SPEAKER_03: You know, first of all, there's unless there's just a few instances, there's no one ingredient that is a miracle worker.
• 2:40
  unknown: Yeah.
• 2:40
  SPEAKER_03: And what we're exposed to all the time is all this marketing rhetoric about how these things are just the most extraordinary ingredients and they can work miracles.
• 2:51
  SPEAKER_03: And there are some ingredients that can have numerous benefits and actually address a number of different concerns.
• 3:01
  SPEAKER_03: But if something's helpful for aging, it doesn't mean it's gonna benefit acne.
• 3:04
  SPEAKER_03: It might make it a lot worse.
• 3:06
  SPEAKER_03: It doesn't mean it's gonna help with your discoloration, it doesn't mean it's gonna help with your rosacea.
• 3:11
  SPEAKER_03: And so, really, when you look at ingredients, you really want to look at it from the from from two perspectives.
• 3:17
  SPEAKER_03: Number one, does that ingredient have any real validation?
• 3:20
  SPEAKER_03: Is there anything that's medically been studied about it, any type of research that's been done that's that really gives it true validation?
• 3:29
  SPEAKER_03: And secondly, and I always say this all the time, uh you need to start from the point of asking yourself this question if there is something I could change or improve about my skin, what would it be?
• 3:44
  SPEAKER_03: And you really uh shouldn't put anything on your skin unless it's going to assist you in addressing a particular concern, helping to lessen that concern, or hopefully maybe uh make it go away.
• 4:02
  SPEAKER_03: And so, you know, when I ask that question, a lot of times people will say their first concern might be, well, I have discoloration or I have acne.
• 4:08
  SPEAKER_03: And then I'll say, Well, what else would you like to uh is there something else you'd like to change about your skin?
• 4:13
  SPEAKER_03: And it might be, you know, three or four different things.
• 4:16
  SPEAKER_03: That's sort of the runway.
• 4:18
  SPEAKER_03: And so when you use something on your skin, is it really truly going to address one of those concerns?
• 4:27
  SPEAKER_03: Right, right, and finally, you know, you can't put everything in one product, and that's another fallacy where it's very seductive because somebody says, Well, we've got this product, you only need to use one product, you hardly need to spend any time on your skin, it's got retinol in it, and it's got glycolic in it, it's got lipoic acid, it's got all of these different things, and a lot of ingredients are not compatible in the same formula.
• 4:52
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah.
• 4:53
  SPEAKER_03: The FDA doesn't regulate cosmetics, so they're not standing there in the lab telling somebody, well, you can't make it that way.
• 5:00
  SPEAKER_03: And so also, if you're going to put a formula together, you have 100% to work with.
• 5:08
  SPEAKER_03: You can't make it add up to 110 or 120.
• 5:11
  SPEAKER_03: So if your first ingredient is water, which is typically 50% or more of the formula, because you can't bake a cake without liquid, and you have 12% of something and 5% of something, and you've got binders and you've got emollients and you've got stabilizing ingredients, well, you you run out of room.
• 5:31
  SPEAKER_03: And so you can lessen the percentages, you can lessen the efficacy, and you can still charge us as much or more money.
• 5:39
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 5:40
  SPEAKER_03: So there's a lot that goes into making products and making certain that they're really going to have a beneficial effect.
• 5:49
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 5:50
  SPEAKER_02: And that's really the, you know, I love that you said that um towards the end is that beneficial effect part because I feel like I keep seeing more and more of these products every day, Jan.
• 6:01
  SPEAKER_02: And I literally go to my, you know, I think to myself, I'm like, oh my gosh, how do I even know?
• 6:05
  SPEAKER_02: Why do you have actives and soothing agents and all this combined?
• 6:10
  SPEAKER_02: It doesn't make any sense, you know, like, and so yeah, I'm really glad to hear you say that because it's going to help me also clarify this for myself because I'm not gonna lie, I really don't understand it, you know, in terms of the real nitty-gritty.
• 6:22
  SPEAKER_02: So I want to jump in, um, really get into the the um meat of the episode and start talking about some of these ingredients because, you know, there are a lot of things that people have heard of at this point, but I would love for you to really clarify and dive into like, you know, what do they do?
• 6:38
  SPEAKER_02: What are they used for?
• 6:39
  SPEAKER_02: What do they not do?
• 6:40
  SPEAKER_02: Those kind of things.
• 6:41
  SPEAKER_02: So the first one on my list is glycolic acid.
• 6:43
  SPEAKER_02: And I know you love talking about this because you've told us so many amazing things about this ingredient.
• 6:48
  SPEAKER_02: So I would love for you to start there.
• 6:50
  SPEAKER_03: So glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid.
• 6:56
  SPEAKER_04: Yeah.
• 6:57
  SPEAKER_03: And that's just sort of a category of acids.
• 6:59
  SPEAKER_03: This one happens to be derived from sugarcane.
• 7:02
  SPEAKER_03: Now we can't just go out in the field and take sugarcane and harvest it because, well, there probably wouldn't be enough sugar cane.
• 7:09
  SPEAKER_03: But so you go through a synthetic process, but it's chemically identical.
• 7:14
  SPEAKER_03: And it's one of the few ingredients that we can say has remarkable benefits for virtually every skin concern.
• 7:24
  SPEAKER_03: And one of the things I want to mention is that of all the skin care ingredients in the world that have been studied medically, when you talk about histological studies, biopsies, medical conferences, two have been studied more than any other in the world.
• 7:35
  SPEAKER_03: One is glycolic, one is retinoids.
• 7:39
  SPEAKER_03: And so this is something that we do have a lot of data on.
• 7:42
  SPEAKER_03: Now, of the alpha hydroxy acids, it's the smallest molecule.
• 7:47
  SPEAKER_03: So it actually gets into your follicle.
• 7:51
  SPEAKER_03: And we like to think that everything that we use on our face somehow slips into the follicle.
• 7:56
  SPEAKER_03: That's not true.
• 7:56
  SPEAKER_03: The molecules are typically too large.
• 7:58
  SPEAKER_03: So this one actually can get into your follicle.
• 8:02
  SPEAKER_03: And glycolic acid is chemically really a moisturizer.
• 8:08
  SPEAKER_03: Now, that doesn't sound quite right, but what glycolic acid does is that it actually stimulates the hygroscopic substances in your skin, the moisturizing substances.
• 8:20
  SPEAKER_03: So in between your cells and the stratum corneum, you have muco polysaccharides and ceramides and phospholipids and hyaluronic acid.
• 8:26
  SPEAKER_03: And this is what really gives your skin barrier function, what gives it moisture.
• 8:30
  SPEAKER_03: And as we get older, those substances begin to decline.
• 8:34
  SPEAKER_03: And it's also sun damage and our lifestyle.
• 8:37
  SPEAKER_03: But glycolic acid can stimulate those substances.
• 8:40
  SPEAKER_03: So it actually makes the skin so much softer, it's so much smoother.
• 8:44
  SPEAKER_03: And it dissolves and dislodges the glyc substance or cellular cement in between cells on the outside of the skin.
• 8:51
  SPEAKER_03: So it makes it really smooth and glassy and very reflective.
• 8:56
  SPEAKER_03: But because it can get into the follicle, it dissolves and dislodges the glyc substance or cellular cement in between cells in the follicle.
• 9:03
  SPEAKER_03: Now, when cells stick together in the follicle, that's the beginning of the acne process.
• 9:07
  SPEAKER_02: Right, right.
• 9:08
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, that's really that's that's my main thing is like I feel like there's so many acids out there and people don't understand when to use what.
• 9:17
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I still to this day, I go on TikTok more and more now, and I mean, every time I do a part of me kind of just withers away, I feel like because there's just so much misinformation, and I keep seeing people talk about all of the acids, included including glycolic, and they're always talking about, oh yeah, it's okay, you know, the glycolic is just sitting on the surface of your skin, it's not really doing anything.
• 9:39
  SPEAKER_02: It's just I'm like, oh my goodness, go read a research paper, please, or listen to one of Jan's episodes because it's it's just not, you know, it doesn't.
• 9:47
  SPEAKER_02: I don't think people are understanding it that there is a very different role of all these acids.
• 9:52
  SPEAKER_02: So now that we know that glycolic acid is very small, I want you to comment on salicylic because salicylic, um, as most of us know that are listening, you know, we love hearing this buzzword, right?
• 10:03
  SPEAKER_02: When it comes to acne treatment.
• 10:04
  SPEAKER_02: So I would love for you to talk to us about this.
• 10:06
  SPEAKER_03: So salicylic acid is a much larger molecule.
• 10:10
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I think glycolic is a molecular size of two, and I think salicylic is somewhere around nine or so.
• 10:17
  SPEAKER_03: Um now it comes from the bark of willow trees, and it's more oil-soluble, it's great for acne, but it's very rare.
• 10:27
  SPEAKER_03: In fact, I can't even think of an instance where somebody said to me, Yeah, I had really, you know, moderate to severe acne, and I just use salicylic acid and all cleared up.
• 10:35
  SPEAKER_03: It's helpful because when it goes into the follicle, it has the ability to sort of go after the original comidone.
• 10:43
  SPEAKER_03: Comidone is where the cells have stuck together and it's this little microscopic clump of dead cells, and that's the beginning of the acne process.
• 10:50
  SPEAKER_03: But the reason we use it in combination with glycolic is because glycolic acts as a delivery agent and actually makes it a lot more effective.
• 11:00
  SPEAKER_03: And glycolic acid is even used in a delivery agent for certain topical prescriptions because it just it it just makes them more effective.
• 11:08
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but it's it's salic also anti-inflammatory, and it kind of brightens the skin, smooths it out a little bit.
• 11:15
  SPEAKER_03: And so it's a good ingredient, but I wouldn't say that I would just buy a product simply because it has salicylic acid in it.
• 11:24
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 11:24
  SPEAKER_02: So you so really it's more of like the combination of the two acids that make salicylic good.
• 11:31
  SPEAKER_03: Combinations, yes, can be really good.
• 11:34
  SPEAKER_03: If I had to pick between glycolic and salicylic for acid just for acne, I'd pick glycolic.
• 11:40
  SPEAKER_03: But if you put them together, I think you get a little more efficacy.
• 11:44
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 11:45
  SPEAKER_02: That's very interesting.
• 11:46
  SPEAKER_02: So, what about the next one, which is um uh azylic acid, also known as dicarboxylic acid?
• 11:52
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, acylic acid is a dicarboxylic acid.
• 11:56
  SPEAKER_03: It occurs naturally in grains, wheat, barley, rye.
• 11:59
  SPEAKER_03: Now it's sold by prescription for acne, it's sold by prescription for rosacea.
• 12:03
  SPEAKER_03: It's a pigment lifting agent, so it can brighten the skin, but it's one of the best resurfacing agents I've seen for the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• 12:11
  SPEAKER_03: It just retexturizes the skin, you know, lessens the appearance of pores.
• 12:15
  SPEAKER_03: And I like it when it's put together with glycolic, salicylic, and azlaic acid, those three together.
• 12:21
  SPEAKER_03: That's called bioclear.
• 12:22
  SPEAKER_03: That's in our skin care management system.
• 12:25
  SPEAKER_03: And it's just whether it's aging, whether it's acne, whether it's rosacea, whether it's the appearance of discoloration, any common skin concern, it can have a remarkable benefit.
• 12:36
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 12:37
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 12:38
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, you know, for me, it it was actually a very um interesting discovery when you first you were the first one to really talk to me about as lake acid because I'd really not ever known about it.
• 12:49
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it was one of those ingredients I I'd seen, but I didn't know much about.
• 12:53
  SPEAKER_02: And um, you know, it's interesting to hear you say that it's it's really, really good in combination because I I think the idea of combining acids, which a lot of people like to say are actives, and okay, that's true, but they, you know, they kind of clump everything into one umbrella term, but it's like they get scared.
• 13:12
  SPEAKER_02: I feel like consumers get scared of like, oh my god, so many acids in one product.
• 13:16
  SPEAKER_02: But I love how you're explaining it, where it's you know, they're building on top of each other, kind of thing, if I am saying that correctly.
• 13:22
  SPEAKER_03: And also, yeah, these acids are anti-inflammatory.
• 13:26
  SPEAKER_03: And you know, if we talk about acne, it's an inflammatory disorder.
• 13:29
  SPEAKER_03: If you talk about rosacea, it's an inflammatory disorder, aging, it's inflammatory-based.
• 13:33
  SPEAKER_03: Um, so all these things that we address, discoloration.
• 13:36
  SPEAKER_03: Discoloration occurs, you know, we go out in the sun, it creates uh and in conjunction with UV radiation, inflammation, and you know, pigmentation and stimulates more discoloration.
• 13:47
  SPEAKER_03: All those things have inflammatory-based components, and so this these things are so anti-inflammatory as well.
• 13:56
  SPEAKER_02: I didn't know that.
• 13:57
  SPEAKER_02: I had no idea acids could be anti-inflammatory.
• 13:59
  SPEAKER_02: That's that's really cool.
• 14:01
  SPEAKER_03: A study done with glycolic acid where they irradiated uh the forearms of individuals and they burned them, and they treated one side, you know, how you treat a traditional burn, like maybe some neosporins and things like that.
• 14:16
  SPEAKER_03: And the other side they treated with glycolic.
• 14:18
  SPEAKER_03: And I think it was four days.
• 14:20
  SPEAKER_03: The glycolic side was healed to the point that it took the other side over two weeks to get to.
• 14:26
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 14:27
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, wow, that's really cool.
• 14:29
  SPEAKER_02: I didn't know that.
• 14:30
  SPEAKER_02: That's really cool.
• 14:31
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I that's that's interesting too, because I wonder what it is.
• 14:35
  SPEAKER_02: Uh, you know, because an acid, when you when I think of an acid, I'm thinking about the molecular structure of it.
• 14:39
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I think chemistry is just so important at this point to understand because, you know, when you think about like hydrogen and then, you know, just how it dissociates and all of that.
• 14:48
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I just it's really fascinating.
• 14:50
  SPEAKER_02: So that's that's interesting that it was uh aiding in, you know, actual wound healing.
• 14:55
  SPEAKER_02: That's very, very cool.
• 14:56
  SPEAKER_03: Well, you know, years ago, um when I had my company before this company, which was MD Formulations MD4T, we were only selling products in the beginning, strictly to physicians.
• 15:09
  SPEAKER_03: And on our corporate folder, we had a two photos.
• 15:15
  SPEAKER_03: One was a photo of a baby that was born with ichthyosis, and the other one was an elderly man that had horrible ichthyosis.
• 15:23
  SPEAKER_03: And then the after pictures, we had back before pictures and after pictures.
• 15:26
  SPEAKER_03: The after pictures were where they were completely clear, completely clear.
• 15:30
  SPEAKER_03: And it was done with glycolic acid because glycolic acid normalizes the epidermis.
• 15:36
  SPEAKER_03: So when it comes to cell turnover, it normalizes the epidermis.
• 15:38
  SPEAKER_03: When it comes to things like ichthyosis, um, and then also even mild psoriasis, which is you know, skin that turns over prematurely every four to six days instead of every 28 days, and it kind of looks like it's dead dry skin, but it's actually premature skin, and it can actually normalize that.
• 15:54
  SPEAKER_03: So it's really one of those ingredients, one of those few ingredients that I kind of do put in the category of sort of a miracle ingredient.
• 16:02
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah.
• 16:03
  SPEAKER_02: No, I mean it's it definitely seems like it.
• 16:05
  SPEAKER_02: And I think, you know, it's interesting to see how things respond in a burn wound situation as well.
• 16:11
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I find it to be so interesting how our industry is evolving to, you know, really test these kind of ingredients and these products on more severe situations rather than just, you know what I mean, like just overall skin health, because it really shows you, you know.
• 16:27
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's something like wound healing is you can't argue with that, you know.
• 16:31
  SPEAKER_02: That's that's data that's so so obvious and huge that I mean you can't refute it.
• 16:36
  SPEAKER_02: So that's very interesting.
• 16:37
  SPEAKER_02: I didn't know that.
• 16:38
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 16:39
  SPEAKER_02: Um, the next one is on the list is mandelic acid.
• 16:42
  SPEAKER_02: And I actually would love to learn more about this because I don't do not know much about it at all.
• 16:47
  SPEAKER_03: So it's another acid that gets put out there cosmetically.
• 16:50
  SPEAKER_03: It comes from bitter almonds.
• 16:51
  SPEAKER_03: It is an alpha hydroxy acid, but it's a lot larger molecule.
• 16:55
  SPEAKER_03: It's a little more superficial.
• 16:58
  SPEAKER_03: So um it's not, in my opinion, effective really for acne.
• 17:02
  SPEAKER_03: Um, it's not, it has some moisturizing properties.
• 17:06
  SPEAKER_03: Um, it helps somewhat with pigment.
• 17:09
  SPEAKER_03: Glycolic potentiates it, but sometimes I like to see it in combination with glycolic because when you put them these together, you can get some almost a superficial moisturizing effect, and then you can get things that happen sort of at a deeper level.
• 17:24
  SPEAKER_03: And so that's one of the reasons why in our multi-acid exfoliating pads, I did glycolic and salicylic and mandelic and lactic acid, another molecule.
• 17:31
  SPEAKER_03: Lactic is twice the size of glycolic, not in my opinion, effective for acne, but when you're working at a deeper level with glycolic and pads, you know, helping with the appearance of acne or uh aging or um discoloration, you also not only get that effect where the skin looks so refined, but you get a moisturizing effect as well.
• 17:56
  SPEAKER_02: Wow, that's interesting.
• 17:58
  SPEAKER_02: So is it because it's bigger?
• 17:59
  SPEAKER_02: Is it a bigger size that's causing the yeah?
• 18:02
  SPEAKER_03: It's a much larger molecule.
• 18:04
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 18:05
  SPEAKER_02: Wow.
• 18:06
  SPEAKER_02: Okay, yeah, because I came across a mandelic acid serum the other day, and I was like, I don't even know what mandelic acid does.
• 18:12
  SPEAKER_02: Like, I don't know if I should even be utilizing this.
• 18:15
  SPEAKER_02: So that's interesting.
• 18:16
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 18:16
  SPEAKER_02: Um, so what about lactic acid then?
• 18:18
  SPEAKER_02: Like, what about the whole?
• 18:19
  SPEAKER_02: Because I know lactic acid is is also huge, just like salsa, like in terms of buzzwords.
• 18:24
  SPEAKER_03: So that's a byproduct of bacterial fermentation of sugar, or it can come in sour from sour milk.
• 18:31
  SPEAKER_03: It's a much, it's a larger molecule than glycolic.
• 18:33
  SPEAKER_03: It's twice the size, um, works more on the epidermis, not again, not really good for acne.
• 18:39
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, but it has some good moisturizing properties, nice smoothing properties.
• 18:44
  SPEAKER_03: That's why, again, I put it in with the uh multi-acid uh peel pads.
• 18:48
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 18:49
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, I like lactic acid.
• 18:51
  SPEAKER_02: I and I love the peel pads, by the way.
• 18:53
  SPEAKER_02: They're my favorite.
• 18:54
  SPEAKER_02: I literally use them, and every week I notice my skin is getting better and better.
• 18:59
  SPEAKER_02: So for all of you listening out there, this is a shameless plug from my end, okay.
• 19:04
  SPEAKER_02: Personal experience, these are the best peel pads in the industry.
• 19:08
  SPEAKER_02: Like you have to get your hands on them, they're just phenomenal.
• 19:10
  SPEAKER_02: So that that makes me um happy to hear that it's in there because it's really working for my skin.
• 19:16
  SPEAKER_02: Um, so okay, next one is a big one, Jan.
• 19:19
  SPEAKER_02: This this ingredient, I am a huge fan of it, and that's out even outside the realm of skin health.
• 19:26
  SPEAKER_02: I'm a fan of this ingredient because I've done my own research and I know that you and I talked, you know, off-air about just some of the findings I've had with niacinamide.
• 19:36
  SPEAKER_02: Um, for everyone listening out there, I'm actually currently working on a project that's using vitamin, this vitamin B to combat uh, you know, brain tumors, basically.
• 19:46
  SPEAKER_02: It's shrinking brain tumors.
• 19:48
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, interesting.
• 19:49
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, it's really cool stuff, Janet.
• 19:50
  SPEAKER_02: I can't wait to send you the manuscript once I'm done with it.
• 19:53
  SPEAKER_02: But I want to learn about niacinamide from you in terms of skin health and why it's important and what you love about it.
• 20:00
  SPEAKER_03: So it's vitamin B3, it's also known as nicotinamide.
• 20:03
  SPEAKER_03: So if you hear the term nicotinamide, it's basically the same thing.
• 20:05
  SPEAKER_03: It's found in breweries yeast, it's found in things like meat and fish and milk and eggs.
• 20:09
  SPEAKER_03: Um, it's not, I wouldn't say it's my superstar ingredient.
• 20:13
  SPEAKER_03: It's a good solid ingredient.
• 20:14
  SPEAKER_03: It helps the outer layer of skin to kind of function better.
• 20:17
  SPEAKER_03: It can help with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, not to the extent of glycolic or retinoid.
• 20:23
  SPEAKER_03: Um, it it acts as an anti-inflammatory in acne.
• 20:27
  SPEAKER_03: Now, it doesn't keep the cells from sticking together a follicle.
• 20:30
  SPEAKER_03: It does not go after the kind of some of the issues that are causative to acne or foundational to acne.
• 20:38
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but here's what I do like about it.
• 20:40
  SPEAKER_03: So I don't necessarily use it per se as an anti-aging ingredient, even though I know that's what it's really popular for, because again, I when you put it up against, you can only use so many ingredients, and when you put it up against glycolic, you put it up against retinoids, you put it up against trestren growth factor beta-1 and certain other things, it doesn't have the same effect.
• 21:01
  SPEAKER_03: But when you have an acne lesion, so to get an acne lesion, your follicle has to leak rupture, blow out.
• 21:08
  SPEAKER_03: So acne starts in the follicle, and the C acne bacteria is is um eating, feeding on the oil and is excreting this fatty acid byproduct, so it causes the follicle eventually to this very corrosive byproduct causes the follicle to leak rupture blow out.
• 21:24
  SPEAKER_03: So that means that some of the material in the follicle goes to the outside and it creates inflammation.
• 21:30
  SPEAKER_03: And depending on where you get the rupture in the follicle, you know, that determines how bad your lesion is going to be when it gets to the surface.
• 21:36
  SPEAKER_03: But as it makes its way to the surface, what it does is it disturbs little blood vessels.
• 21:41
  SPEAKER_03: And these little micro blood vessels, the color of them in that makes up blood, bilirubin, and verde rubin, what happens is if they leak, that's when you get discoloration left over with acne.
• 21:54
  SPEAKER_03: Some people call it scarring, but it's not scar because it's not an injury to the dermis.
• 21:58
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_03: Leaves it depending on your skin coloration, it can be reddish if you're really fair, it can be purplish, brownish, blackish if you have more pigment in your skin, and it can take a long time to go away.
• 22:10
  SPEAKER_03: So, one of the things that niacinamide does is it helps that at that kind of inflammatory point, it helps to lessen that, and it also helps to get that type of discoloration out of the skin faster.
• 22:25
  SPEAKER_03: And I have never seen niacinamide use the way that we use it.
• 22:30
  SPEAKER_03: I put it in what we call our marini clear multi-acid corrective pads.
• 22:33
  SPEAKER_03: So this is another pad that anybody can use, but specifically, I designed it more along the lines for acne, although it can be used for aging, but it gets rid of that leftover discoloration so astoundingly fast.
• 22:50
  SPEAKER_03: And even though we've got something in one of our products in our duality that gets rid of it 300 times faster, along with that, it's faster steel.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_02: Wow.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_02: That's interesting.
• 23:00
  SPEAKER_02: Now I feel like niacinamide is one of those like superhero ingredients that like people just do not understand in its full capacity yet.
• 23:09
  SPEAKER_02: But I love everything it does for my skin.
• 23:11
  SPEAKER_02: Every time I use anything with niacinamide, I always notice that it's doing something.
• 23:16
  SPEAKER_02: And I think that's one of the biggest hallmarks for any skin thusiast out there, right?
• 23:21
  SPEAKER_02: Is when we see a product work.
• 23:23
  SPEAKER_02: And a lot of times it always contains niacinamide for me personally.
• 23:26
  SPEAKER_02: So I I love that you explained that so well.
• 23:29
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you for that.
• 23:31
  SPEAKER_02: The next one is actually very similar.
• 23:33
  SPEAKER_02: It's another vitamin, vitamin C.
• 23:34
  SPEAKER_02: We all love vitamin C, and obviously, we have full brands dedicated to the stabilization of this molecule.
• 23:41
  SPEAKER_02: So I would love to get your take on this, Jan, and um help us explain to us what ascorbic acid versus ascorbial palmitate like is.
• 23:50
  SPEAKER_03: This is such a confusing issue, and you know, the most common form of vitamin C that you tend to see out there is ascorbic acid.
• 23:58
  SPEAKER_03: It's also against it's it's inexpensive.
• 24:01
  SPEAKER_03: Now, ascorbic acid, as popular as it is, and this is not just me saying this, you can talk to a chemist or any anybody who's an expert in this area, it is not stable.
• 24:13
  SPEAKER_03: So when you expose it to water, when you expose it to oxygen, when you expose it to sunlight, all the things that are in your bathroom, it begins to break down immediately.
• 24:23
  SPEAKER_03: And it's referred to as redux, reduction and oxidation.
• 24:27
  SPEAKER_03: Now, the other thing it does is that it can make other ingredients such as retinoids unstable and less effective.
• 24:35
  SPEAKER_03: So here's one of the common things you hear about ascorbic acid.
• 24:38
  SPEAKER_03: Well, you should use your ascorbic acid in the morning and you should use your retinoid at night.
• 24:43
  SPEAKER_03: Well, why is that?
• 24:45
  SPEAKER_03: I mean, why can't they be used together?
• 24:47
  SPEAKER_03: Well, the reason they can't be used together is because it's going to render your retinoid far less effective.
• 24:52
  SPEAKER_03: And also, ascorbic acid to be effective, and these are the original patents by Dr.
• 24:56
  SPEAKER_03: Miser and Dr.
• 24:57
  SPEAKER_03: Shneninsky.
• 24:57
  SPEAKER_03: Shininsky was a dermopathologist, and Miser was a geneticist, and um, I can't remember which university, but they demonstrated the original patents that it had to be at a pH of 2.5 or less to be effective on the skin.
• 25:10
  SPEAKER_03: And at that pH, about 50% of the population really can't tolerate it.
• 25:16
  SPEAKER_03: And so what happens when you, you know, you go to the drugstore or the department store and you get an ascorbic acid product, very often the pH is higher.
• 25:23
  SPEAKER_03: You're able to tolerate it, but you're not really getting the efficacy that you would see in a lot of the original studies.
• 25:29
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and if you're using it in combination with retinoids and combinations with glycolic, some inflammation is good.
• 25:40
  SPEAKER_03: But let's just say you really were at that page of 2.5 and you're getting a lot of inflammation.
• 25:44
  SPEAKER_03: So some inflammation can be good.
• 25:46
  SPEAKER_03: You can have a controlled wounding, you can have something that can stimulate collagen, but if it's on an ongoing basis, it actually can cause collagen breakdown.
• 25:53
  SPEAKER_03: So, for that reason and a lot of other reasons, I use a scorable palmitate, which chemically is LScorbic acid palmitate.
• 26:01
  SPEAKER_03: Now, the body recognizes it as an intact molecule.
• 26:05
  SPEAKER_03: So it doesn't have to be converted, and it has a much higher pH.
• 26:10
  SPEAKER_03: It has is completely stable, has a you know typical two-year shelf life, it's anti-inflammatory.
• 26:17
  SPEAKER_03: Um, it's roughly 30 times.
• 26:19
  SPEAKER_03: This is one study was done on four bolester-induced tumors, it's 30 times more effective than ascorbic acid, even one quarter the amount.
• 26:26
  SPEAKER_03: And in uh tissue culture flask and collagen sponge in vitroin in vitroin in vivo studies by Olga Marco, who used to be with Sloan Kettering, um, they it shows that it stimulates a lot more collagen than ascorbic acid.
• 26:40
  SPEAKER_03: And I could go on and on and on, but it is really, in my opinion, just the most remarkable form of vitamin C.
• 26:50
  SPEAKER_03: And there's tons of studies on its uh its ability to be more um anti-inflammatory.
• 26:58
  SPEAKER_03: Um, studies that have been done on even uh using um uh psoriasis models and things like that in terms of the anti-inflammatory effect.
• 27:08
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, it's so it's just it's just a really good form of vitamin C.
• 27:13
  SPEAKER_03: But I will tell you, if I always say if I took the vitamin C out of the product, it would still be remarkable.
• 27:20
  SPEAKER_03: And that's because of one of the other ingredients we're going to be talking about here.
• 27:25
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting, yeah, because I feel like vitamin C, all we know about, and I think I blame marketing for this, is that either it's stabilized or it's not.
• 27:35
  SPEAKER_02: And it's like nobody wants to talk about like what that even means.
• 27:39
  SPEAKER_02: And I love that you brought up retinol because that is one of the ingredients, like that's one of the another an active that people are so confused about, but they always mess up and say, you know, I can combine my retinol with nothing but moisturizer.
• 27:54
  SPEAKER_02: You know, if I'm doing retinol, I'm gonna put a moisturizer.
• 27:57
  SPEAKER_02: That's it, nothing else, you know.
• 27:58
  SPEAKER_02: And it's like, well, why?
• 28:00
  SPEAKER_02: You know, retinol is just vitamin A.
• 28:02
  SPEAKER_02: You know, you're just so it's it's an interesting topic for sure.
• 28:05
  SPEAKER_03: I'm not gonna, you know, talk about I'll tell you that's just a little bit of history.
• 28:10
  SPEAKER_03: You know, first of all, we we we kind of say, well, why is vitamin C?
• 28:13
  SPEAKER_03: Why do we want to put it on our skin?
• 28:14
  SPEAKER_03: Well, because you know, without vitamin C, you can't make collagen, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.
• 28:17
  SPEAKER_03: Well, let me tell you the real reason why vitamin C became studied.
• 28:21
  SPEAKER_03: And this was actually at one of the major universities, it may have originated at Duke University, but they're they they're they're not the ones that did the patent.
• 28:29
  SPEAKER_03: So, what they found out is if they put vitamin C on the skin and could get it to absorb into the skin and be recognized, and they did this every day like you would any other skincare product, and they did it for 72 hours.
• 28:42
  SPEAKER_03: So, so it's for three days in a row, you put it on.
• 28:45
  SPEAKER_03: That for the next 72 hours, even if you didn't reapply it, you would have total sun protection.
• 28:52
  SPEAKER_03: Now, the total sun protection isn't like a sunscreen.
• 28:54
  SPEAKER_03: What it did is it stopped the cascading effect.
• 28:58
  SPEAKER_03: Now, then becomes the question: well, this is pretty this was an amazing discovery.
• 29:04
  SPEAKER_03: Then how come they didn't take this and say, gee, let's license some big, you know, let's license it to copper tone for a gazillion dollars and you know, get royalties to the university for the next million years, and we have this big discovery.
• 29:16
  SPEAKER_03: Well, the reason is is because it's not stable.
• 29:20
  SPEAKER_03: So, how can you get it through the FDA?
• 29:22
  SPEAKER_03: Sunscreens are drugs, they're over-the-counter drugs, they're highly, highly regulated by the FDA.
• 29:29
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 29:29
  SPEAKER_03: So, you know, you you see it cosmetically and you hear all these wonderful things, but then there's the real underlying story.
• 29:35
  SPEAKER_03: And the thing about a scorbal palmitate, again, aloscorpic acid six palmitate, is that it has that same ability to have that uh cumulative effect in terms of that cascading effect, but it's stable.
• 29:52
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 29:54
  SPEAKER_02: Interesting.
• 29:54
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, it's I mean, you know, I always see like, for example, people adding gold onto ascorbic acid and then or you know, and saying, well, this is going to stabilize them or whatever.
• 30:05
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's just such a it's such a deeper world now, I feel like, than it used to be with the vitamin C, you know, um, in terms of just trying to understand, like, you know, what what are you all these different companies doing and how is it different than the next one?
• 30:18
  SPEAKER_02: You know, that's where I get so lost because it's like, you know, hearing you talk about it, yeah, the the ability to stabilize and the importance of stabilizing is very important.
• 30:28
  SPEAKER_02: But then it makes me wonder about, you know, well, what about all these different methods that they're utilizing to stabilize it, you know?
• 30:34
  SPEAKER_02: So it is it's a very interesting topic indeed.
• 30:36
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I'm very interested in seeing what happens next because right now I feel like we're at a standstill with vitamin C.
• 30:43
  SPEAKER_02: I feel like we've done what we're gonna do, and now I'm waiting for the next company to come out and say, well, yeah, here we go, you know.
• 30:50
  SPEAKER_03: There's nothing I've heard that's really re remarkable that I've seen recently.
• 30:56
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 30:56
  SPEAKER_03: Um here's the other thing.
• 30:59
  SPEAKER_03: Um, when you can tell when ascorbic acid is losing epic, but it changes color.
• 31:04
  SPEAKER_03: Now, our product changes color, but not because of the ascorbic acid, it's because of something called DMAE.
• 31:09
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 31:12
  SPEAKER_03: And that actually, in the manufacturing process itself, will turn dark brown if you don't do some things to to mitigate that.
• 31:18
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but so it doesn't have anything to do with the the uh ascorbal chromatate.
• 31:25
  SPEAKER_02: So why does DMAE just okay, so does it usually come in a vitamin C formulations or is it something you're doing uniquely?
• 31:34
  SPEAKER_03: DMAE is is as I said, you know, if you I took the vitamin C out, it would still be a remarkable product.
• 31:40
  SPEAKER_03: So what DMAE is DMAE was really studied having to do with Alzheimer's disease.
• 31:46
  SPEAKER_03: It is a precursor to acetylcholine.
• 31:48
  SPEAKER_03: So, you know, you think back many years ago where they thought possibly Alzheimer's disease was nothing but a tangled mass of neurons that had to do with uh something to do with acetylcholine as opposed to beta-amyloid protein and all of that.
• 32:01
  SPEAKER_03: So, at any rate, um it's it it is a major neurotransmitter factor, and every single nerve in our body sparks acetylcholine into our muscles.
• 32:10
  SPEAKER_03: So even our facial nerve sparks acetylcholine into the muscle, and it's it helps with what's called correct anatomical muscle positioning.
• 32:18
  SPEAKER_03: You if you want to call it muscle tone, you can.
• 32:20
  SPEAKER_03: Now, so um it's one of the things that helps, you know, to keep the cheek pads nice and high and your jawline defined.
• 32:26
  SPEAKER_03: It's a very tiny piece of the puzzle, but it's one of those pieces.
• 32:29
  SPEAKER_03: So you think about as you age, and whether you're producing the same amount of acetylcholine, but probably the uh your receptor sites maybe just don't pick it up the same way.
• 32:40
  SPEAKER_03: And so we don't see that same uh correct anatomical muscle positioning or uh muscle tone, if you will.
• 32:47
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and so what this what this ingredient was actually discovered in Alzheimer's, and uh one of the researchers, for whatever reason, was putting it on the skin and found out that they were getting this muscle contraction.
• 33:02
  SPEAKER_03: And there's actually a study that was presented at the American Academy of Dermatology was half-based, double blind, random placebo, yeah, and on the side of the face where you you put it on the side where it was used, and that you put it right up in the hairline on the neck and behind the ear, they actually noticed one eyebrow would be higher than the other, nasal labial fold a little bit more pulled back, um, cheek pad a little higher.
• 33:25
  SPEAKER_03: And they found, interestingly, that the effect was persistent.
• 33:31
  SPEAKER_03: And so, what that means is that let's just say, for example, you used it for six months and then you said, Okay, well, for whatever reason I'm gonna stop using it, that the effect would persist and the skin would simply age back.
• 33:44
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 33:46
  SPEAKER_03: Wow, that's really interesting.
• 33:48
  SPEAKER_03: Now it's also a very unique delivery agent.
• 33:52
  SPEAKER_03: This is DMAE can actually pass the green blood blood barrier.
• 33:57
  SPEAKER_03: No, we don't use it for that, but I do use it.
• 34:00
  SPEAKER_03: It's one of the little tricks that I have in what I call my layer technology in the skincare management system.
• 34:05
  SPEAKER_03: It's one of the reasons why we put CSD on first, um, because it kind of opens the door a little bit and makes it easier for us to have certain effects.
• 34:16
  SPEAKER_03: Um so it's just it's it's also one of the most powerful anti-inflammatories we've we've discovered.
• 34:23
  SPEAKER_02: Well, it's interesting to me that you know no one's really talking about DMA.
• 34:28
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I've really never heard of any brand talk about it because if it's that you know amazing of an ingredient, why aren't we even utilizing it more?
• 34:37
  SPEAKER_02: That boggles my mind.
• 34:39
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 34:39
  SPEAKER_03: So it's not real easy to formulate with.
• 34:42
  SPEAKER_03: Like I said, it can it can turn dark, but that doesn't mean that the efficacy is there's it's not a problem with efficacy, but it's not that easy to formulate with.
• 34:49
  SPEAKER_03: It's not inexpensive.
• 34:51
  SPEAKER_03: And so, you know, when you look at one of the reasons why the cosmetic industry or skincare industry is so huge, is that first of all, we all have skin.
• 35:02
  SPEAKER_03: We all use something on our skin, whether it's just soap and water, but we all use it.
• 35:06
  SPEAKER_03: So it's just this billion, billion, billion dollar industry, I think 20 billion in the US alone.
• 35:12
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and so um companies want to make products that are as cost effective and have as high a margin as possible.
• 35:23
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 35:24
  SPEAKER_03: Now it's not unusual for sometimes when company when a really large major strategic company is making, like say, huge numbers of product, I mean, in the you know, literally in the millions, um, for worldwide use, you know, to have product that that maybe they make for a dollar or a dollar fifty and they're selling it for ninety doll or a hundred dollars.
• 35:46
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, that's products that cost me nine, ten, twelve dollars or more to make one product.
• 35:54
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 35:55
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 35:56
  SPEAKER_03: So um, and and one of the ongoing struggles I always have with my marketing department, with other departments, is when I'm coming up with some new product, everybody always knows it's gonna be horrendously you know expensive to make.
• 36:11
  SPEAKER_03: But if that's you know, that's what I'm about is I'm about solutions, about real efficacy.
• 36:17
  SPEAKER_03: So um, and that's not to say that there aren't good products out there, it's not to say that, but in general, um it just these are expensive ingredients.
• 36:32
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, and honestly, Jen, you know what?
• 36:35
  SPEAKER_02: I'm just gonna say it.
• 36:36
  SPEAKER_02: Like, I you already know I'm I'm like literally your biggest fan, and like your products are just out of this world good.
• 36:42
  SPEAKER_02: Like, I mean, and at the end of the day, like the fact that you are sticking to this like morality, sticking to the ethics of what real good skin health means is everything.
• 36:52
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I think cutting corners, it has a purpose in terms of the business side of things for some brands, but I think when it comes to skin health, like for me as a consumer, if I see a brand cutting corners like that, I'm just not attracted to that.
• 37:06
  SPEAKER_02: Like I don't want, I don't want to have anything to do with that.
• 37:08
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I want someone like you know, you, like who's going to sit down and make a formulation that you believe in, that you've researched, that you know about, you know, and yeah, it's it's costing you more, but what you're producing and what you're creating is making results happen for people.
• 37:23
  SPEAKER_02: And that is that's priceless.
• 37:25
  SPEAKER_02: That's not something you would be here to say on.
• 37:27
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 37:28
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I mean it.
• 37:29
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 37:29
  SPEAKER_02: And I I feel like a lot more people, you know, it's really cool.
• 37:32
  SPEAKER_02: And this is a good time for you to mention this.
• 37:34
  SPEAKER_02: A lot of people, Jan, reach out to me via email every time they hear one of our episodes and they're like, I am just so in awe of Jan.
• 37:41
  SPEAKER_02: And I just look up to her so much because and it's because of what I said.
• 37:45
  SPEAKER_02: It's because you don't cut corners, you don't BS people, you don't lie, you do the real science and you put it out there and it works.
• 37:54
  SPEAKER_02: And we are we are testaments, we're walking testaments to your work.
• 37:57
  SPEAKER_02: So you know, hats off to you, seriously.
• 37:59
  SPEAKER_02: Like you're you know, such a prime.
• 38:01
  SPEAKER_03: That that is so kind, but I will say what I focus on is solutions.
• 38:06
  SPEAKER_03: And from a business perspective, yeah, solutions really do make sense, even if you're looking at it just from a strategic um perspective of revenue, because solutions are sticky.
• 38:19
  SPEAKER_03: You know, there's no cure for acne, but yeah, you can manage it and get complete total clearing.
• 38:24
  SPEAKER_03: But if you stop using duality, your acne is going to come back.
• 38:27
  SPEAKER_03: There's no cure.
• 38:28
  SPEAKER_03: That's sticky, right?
• 38:30
  SPEAKER_03: So I don't need to skimp on a formula, I just need to produce a product that really provides a real solution because people are going to use it.
• 38:38
  SPEAKER_02: Exactly.
• 38:39
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, real solutions.
• 38:40
  SPEAKER_02: That's that's really the key key word is solutions.
• 38:43
  SPEAKER_02: You know, that's I've I would love to see more of that in this industry, to be honest with you, is just solution-minded individuals, solution-minded brands.
• 38:50
  SPEAKER_02: That's really where we're headed.
• 38:51
  SPEAKER_02: But I want to move on to the next um ingredient on the list, and that is growth factors.
• 38:56
  SPEAKER_02: And I am so excited to talk about this with you because I I think there's a lot of buzz, and I think we need to clear the air and understand it.
• 39:02
  SPEAKER_03: So, yeah, you know, and it's I'll tell you, this is when it's really hard to explain anyway, but they're so first of all, they're very large molecules.
• 39:12
  SPEAKER_03: So getting them to even have an effect uh topically is is kind of tricky.
• 39:17
  SPEAKER_03: And they they don't have the effect fully that maybe they will someday.
• 39:25
  SPEAKER_03: They can we can still get an effect from growth factors, and they can be very, very um uh helpful in certain products.
• 39:34
  SPEAKER_03: But what they do is they bind to receptor sites, and they have the purpose, they activate cellular proliferation and differentiation, but they're very large proteins known as polypeptides.
• 39:47
  SPEAKER_03: So they stimulate cell growth, they stimulate cell functioning, and they're triggering cells to divide and grow and survive and produce proteins such as collagen.
• 39:54
  SPEAKER_03: Okay.
• 39:54
  SPEAKER_03: So again, you know, besides helping to keep you alive and all of that, they do have an effect in you know aging and how you age and all of that.
• 40:02
  SPEAKER_03: Um so one of the ways to think of growth factors as think of a receptor site.
• 40:09
  SPEAKER_03: So receptor site that that that is needs to be triggered or or it needs to do something, do you do something effective?
• 40:16
  SPEAKER_03: Think of them as keys.
• 40:18
  SPEAKER_03: And so the receptor site is a lock.
• 40:21
  SPEAKER_03: And when the key slides into the lock, it activates the cell to do things, maybe to make collagen.
• 40:28
  SPEAKER_03: To um, let's say we've we've tricked the skin into thinking it's wounded, so it's going to um cause the skin to activate more things like collagen or to look younger.
• 40:41
  SPEAKER_03: Now, by our late 50s, the key mechanism to these receptor sites gets rusty.
• 40:47
  SPEAKER_03: So skin produces fewer growth factors.
• 40:50
  SPEAKER_03: And and and this is such a this is such a complicated, we've talked about this offline so much, but you know, the whole aging thing is such a complicated thing with your epigeome and all and your strictions coming from your DNA, but essentially your skin produces fewer growth factors.
• 41:04
  SPEAKER_03: So when you apply growth factors, it's like a replacement therapy, simple as that.
• 41:09
  SPEAKER_03: Right, right.
• 41:10
  SPEAKER_03: But whether or not you're getting the full effect at this point, I don't think we have all of the technology in place to do that.
• 41:20
  SPEAKER_03: But I can tell you, I know that we are getting an effect.
• 41:23
  SPEAKER_03: And some of the growth factors that I really like to work with, because not all growth factors are good, you know, there's bad growth factors too, but I like transferring growth factor beta one, thymus and beta four, which I have a patent on, uh, keratinic growth factor, epidermal growth factor.
• 41:36
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and so um, you know, again, it's at the simplest level, it's it's about turning on responses and sales.
• 41:45
  SPEAKER_03: So they just function better.
• 41:47
  SPEAKER_02: That makes sense.
• 41:48
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, growth factors, I think, are definitely.
• 41:51
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, even, you know, I've having studied science, even to this day, I have a hard time understanding how exactly they're, you know, being modulated in the body and you know, all those, and also just the delivery mechanisms, right?
• 42:04
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, they're they're just so complex to deliver into your skin growth in general.
• 42:08
  SPEAKER_03: So oh, yeah, and you know, and I get in, I I one of the discussions I have with a lot with physicians, in fact, this is terrible, I can't think of the physician's name.
• 42:19
  SPEAKER_03: But we just had a webinar where this is a physician who is really renowned, um, he has his own practice, but he also is one of the thought leaders for one of the major laser companies in aesthetics.
• 42:36
  SPEAKER_03: Oh.
• 42:37
  SPEAKER_03: And he's like always has been, you know, he doesn't really believe in skincare.
• 42:41
  SPEAKER_03: And that's not anything new because my goodness, if you're um working with lasers and you're doing surgery and you're doing all these different things, um, skincare doesn't replace surgery.
• 42:50
  SPEAKER_03: Skincare doesn't replace lasers, but it does have a place.
• 42:54
  SPEAKER_03: And then he started working with our skincare and he became a true believer.
• 42:57
  SPEAKER_03: And so he was doing this um this webinar with us.
• 43:02
  SPEAKER_03: But you know, the question becomes is is Jan, well, you know, how do you get it into the skin?
• 43:07
  SPEAKER_03: Does it really work?
• 43:08
  SPEAKER_03: And it's so many times there's this focus on you've got to deliver something.
• 43:13
  SPEAKER_03: I'm not trying to get something into the bloodstream.
• 43:17
  SPEAKER_03: Um really all I have to do is connect with receptor sites.
• 43:22
  SPEAKER_03: We have receptor sites, every cell in your body has receptor sites, so it's kind of a different way of looking at it.
• 43:28
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and there are things in skincare.
• 43:32
  SPEAKER_03: Now, I I will just tell you um for time's sake, one of the things right now that's really, really hot.
• 43:40
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and let me tell you, I wish I could crack this one, but we can't at this point, and that's exosomes.
• 43:46
  SPEAKER_03: Yes, oh my gosh, yes, don't even get me started on that.
• 43:51
  SPEAKER_03: Now exosomes have such tremendous potential.
• 43:55
  SPEAKER_03: In fact, you know, when you do fat transfer in aesthetics, And one of the things that happens in aesthetics is that you take fat from a certain area of the body, particularly if it's an area that hasn't had a lot of sun exposure, and let's say you put it in the face or something, not only does it help to fill in and give volume, but it re-educates the cells around it.
• 44:14
  SPEAKER_03: So the skin all of a sudden starts acting younger.
• 44:17
  SPEAKER_03: Well, they used to think that probably that was stem cells, because fat has lots of stem cells.
• 44:21
  SPEAKER_03: Well, now we're thinking no, it's it's probably exosomes.
• 44:25
  SPEAKER_03: So there are these companies coming out with all of these topical exosome products.
• 44:32
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 44:33
  SPEAKER_03: Number one, it's like stem cells.
• 44:35
  SPEAKER_03: Number one, they're not alive in the product, I guarantee you.
• 44:42
  SPEAKER_03: So if you want to spend, you know, two, three, four hundred dollars or more, that's fine, but it's not going to, if you're not really getting exosomes.
• 44:50
  SPEAKER_03: The second thing is there is an exosome product out there that shows some promise.
• 44:55
  SPEAKER_03: And what it is, it's a product called the NEV, B-E-N-E-V, I believe.
• 44:59
  SPEAKER_03: And it is a product that is supplied to the doctor, and it is in a state in which it has to be reconstituted.
• 45:07
  SPEAKER_03: Interesting.
• 45:08
  SPEAKER_03: Okay.
• 45:08
  SPEAKER_03: So what the doctor does is they use it during a procedure.
• 45:13
  SPEAKER_03: The procedure could be maybe putting it on right after laser.
• 45:17
  SPEAKER_03: It could be they did microneedling, it could be something else.
• 45:21
  SPEAKER_03: For several reasons.
• 45:22
  SPEAKER_03: Number one, you reconstitute it so you and so the so you're using a product that's much more viable.
• 45:29
  SPEAKER_03: Secondly, in order for an exosome to even have any efficacy, it has to have a channel.
• 45:38
  SPEAKER_03: You can't just put it on the skin and it just goes, okay, we're just going to burrow our way in and we're going to do this and that and the other.
• 45:44
  SPEAKER_03: You have to have a channel, an entry point for it.
• 45:47
  SPEAKER_03: So that's why microneedling or laser or something like that.
• 45:51
  SPEAKER_03: But even with that, even with that, and I like the honesty of the company, it may have an effect, an immediate effect of decreasing inflammation.
• 46:02
  SPEAKER_03: Maybe it has an immediate effect of enhancing the actual procedure.
• 46:07
  SPEAKER_03: But because it doesn't have a um a growth supply or blood supply.
• 46:15
  SPEAKER_03: In other words, you didn't inject it, you didn't implant it like you would fat.
• 46:20
  SPEAKER_03: So it doesn't have a blood supply.
• 46:22
  SPEAKER_03: It doesn't last.
• 46:23
  SPEAKER_03: We don't even know if it lasts.
• 46:25
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 46:27
  SPEAKER_03: So think about that.
• 46:28
  SPEAKER_03: Think about then back that up into a skincare product.
• 46:32
  SPEAKER_03: That's just, yeah, exactly.
• 46:35
  SPEAKER_03: Don't go down that road.
• 46:36
  SPEAKER_03: There's so many other things that you can do that are going to be really, really efficacious.
• 46:40
  SPEAKER_02: No, you know what's that's such a solid point, and I'm so glad you brought that up because yes, exosomes are everywhere right now.
• 46:48
  SPEAKER_02: I can't get people to stop talking about them.
• 46:50
  SPEAKER_02: Every time someone comes to me talking about exosomes, I'm like, I'm not listening.
• 46:53
  SPEAKER_02: I just wrote a paper on this, and they are not useful right now.
• 46:57
  SPEAKER_02: We'll get there when we get there.
• 46:58
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it's just it's not it's not there yet.
• 47:02
  SPEAKER_03: They're gonna be they're gonna be.
• 47:04
  SPEAKER_03: I I think that the just the potential is just amazing.
• 47:08
  SPEAKER_03: It's marvelous.
• 47:10
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 47:10
  SPEAKER_02: But I mean, that's potential right now.
• 47:12
  SPEAKER_02: We gotta we gotta apply it, you know, and I think we will eventually.
• 47:16
  SPEAKER_02: But the next one, um, Jen, I really want to talk about peptides because peptides are also you know very complicated, just like growth factors.
• 47:23
  SPEAKER_03: So so you know, we peptides, it's a huge name.
• 47:27
  SPEAKER_03: It's been in the cosmetic industry for a long time.
• 47:30
  SPEAKER_03: And one of the things I want to say before I get into what they are, there's a lot of deception out there.
• 47:35
  SPEAKER_03: And you see a lot of products, even in the professional market, where they'll say something like, We have 10% peptides, we have 20% peptides, it makes it sound like, oh my God, this product just has just got to be the best peptide product in the world.
• 47:47
  SPEAKER_03: First of all, peptides come in parts per million.
• 47:52
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 47:52
  SPEAKER_03: Parts per million.
• 47:54
  SPEAKER_03: And depending on the peptide and the activity and what it is that that you're you're you're it's supposed to do, it could be recommended to be used in three parts per million or five parts per million or 10 or something along those lines, not 10% of your product, which is so ridiculous.
• 48:12
  SPEAKER_03: So, anyway, I digress.
• 48:15
  SPEAKER_03: So, peptides are molecules that are made up of two or more amino acids.
• 48:20
  SPEAKER_03: So these are tiny little chains of amino acids, they could be like two to fifty amino acids, and the skin sees peptides as signals to heal or to do something.
• 48:31
  SPEAKER_03: And there are, I don't even think we've discovered all the peptides that there are.
• 48:35
  SPEAKER_03: So when you look at the skincare industry, you know, you're you're looking at a tiny little piece of the peptide puzzle.
• 48:42
  SPEAKER_03: For example, if there's one peptide that goes awry in fetal development, um, the the the infant or the fetus develops cystic fibrosis.
• 48:50
  SPEAKER_03: That's how peptides, how they can be so dramatic.
• 48:56
  SPEAKER_03: And um so you know, when we look at skincare, that's that's that's a whole different area.
• 49:03
  SPEAKER_03: Now, some peptides work for anti-aging, but we're also branching out, and this is where it's starting to get very interesting.
• 49:10
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and you don't see this too much in products yet, although we have some of it in our products, is that we have peptides that work, for example, to downregulate something like the cat chiselicidin uh inflammatory protein that's at the root of a lot of rosacea.
• 49:25
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 49:26
  SPEAKER_03: We have a peptide that downregulates the melanocyte producer, melanocyte stimulating hormone, which we use in luminate.
• 49:32
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but they're fundamental building blocks of skin, they act as chemical messengers.
• 49:37
  SPEAKER_03: Um, they can be building blocks, they're kind of down the food chain from growth factors, but nevertheless, they're building blocks of certain proteins.
• 49:45
  SPEAKER_03: So for collagen, elastic and things like that.
• 49:48
  SPEAKER_03: Um, what you do is when you make a peptide, you use some type of a uh a foundation like yeast or bacteria and you grow them.
• 49:55
  SPEAKER_03: So you're kind of in a sense cloning them.
• 49:58
  SPEAKER_03: Um and they can they can signal cells in specific ways.
• 50:02
  SPEAKER_03: Um I like to use them like cocktails.
• 50:07
  SPEAKER_03: Sometimes you um need several peptides to get targeted changes.
• 50:11
  SPEAKER_03: One of the things I'm gonna tell you is that I think one of the worst things they've done with peptides, or let's put the rhetoric about peptides, is when they talk about them as neuromodulators.
• 50:23
  SPEAKER_03: Oh, yeah.
• 50:25
  SPEAKER_03: It's better than Botox.
• 50:26
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 50:28
  SPEAKER_03: Botox works on dynamic muscle movement.
• 50:33
  SPEAKER_03: So it's a beautiful muscle from you know, doing, you know, here, here, etc.
• 50:39
  SPEAKER_03: It can be used in other places as well.
• 50:40
  SPEAKER_03: But what you're doing is you're disabling temporarily, making that muscle less active, and so that crease disappears temporarily.
• 50:50
  SPEAKER_03: You cannot do that with a topical peptide product.
• 50:57
  SPEAKER_03: You cannot do that.
• 50:59
  SPEAKER_03: I'm just here to tell you.
• 51:01
  SPEAKER_02: Well, I'm just here, I you know what you're doing.
• 51:04
  SPEAKER_02: First of all, yeah, you're gonna have no wrinkles, you're gonna have nothing.
• 51:10
  SPEAKER_02: You're not gonna be able to move your face.
• 51:11
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's it's crazy because you know what really baffles me, Janet, is that people are like, oh yeah, you know, peptides, uh amino acids, and you know, I'm like, they're all the same in just different lengths, you know, amino acids put together is a peptide.
• 51:29
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know why we are so confused as a community about this.
• 51:32
  SPEAKER_03: You know, it's like yeah, one of the things is, and you know, again, when you compare this, this which I just hate hearing this comparing it to like Botox.
• 51:42
  SPEAKER_03: I mean Botox is it's like it's the angel and it's the devil.
• 51:50
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 51:50
  SPEAKER_03: So for example, you hear about things like they put it in the upper lip and they do what's called a lip flip, or they put it here and they the corners of the mouth.
• 51:59
  SPEAKER_03: Well, if you're off by the tiniest little bit, you hit that depressor muscle, and what happens is you look like that for three months.
• 52:09
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, yeah.
• 52:10
  SPEAKER_03: Okay, so so just from that perspective, you compare that, it's nothing to do with the peptide.
• 52:16
  SPEAKER_03: Now, on the other hand, there's something today that is very popular that is superficial or micro-botox.
• 52:26
  SPEAKER_03: So it's either done with a needle or it's done with micro-needling.
• 52:31
  SPEAKER_03: So, what it is is you take, like let's say you you took just a regular needle, but you're doing little pinpricks everywhere just on the surface.
• 52:39
  SPEAKER_03: So it doesn't, it's not going to disable the dynamic muscle movement at all.
• 52:44
  SPEAKER_03: But what it does is we actually have little microcontractions in the skin.
• 52:49
  SPEAKER_03: So when you have larger pores as you get older, it has to do with retina matter in the follicle.
• 52:53
  SPEAKER_03: If you have retina matter, it has to do with loss of collagen.
• 52:56
  SPEAKER_03: So your pores don't have the same structure around them, they get flabby.
• 52:59
  SPEAKER_03: But also, there's little microcontractions that can cause the skin to not look quite as relaxed or not the it doesn't look as as um refined.
• 53:08
  SPEAKER_03: And so they find when they do these little micro botox is that it kind of takes on more of a baby-like skin.
• 53:15
  SPEAKER_03: And it doesn't necessarily last as long, it's not you know real dramatic, but it just does refreshes the texture.
• 53:22
  SPEAKER_03: It's possible, and I'm actually working on this, it's possible that certain combinations of neuro uh peptides might have a very similar effect topically.
• 53:38
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, so you know, but again, you've got to, I just believe in being really realistic.
• 53:46
  SPEAKER_03: And if it's if it really works, then you don't have to make up stories about it.
• 53:50
  SPEAKER_02: No, I I agree with you.
• 53:51
  SPEAKER_02: I think that it's more of understanding the science.
• 53:54
  SPEAKER_02: I think there's very few people out there that really get the science.
• 53:57
  SPEAKER_02: And and you know, when it comes to something like Botox, I feel like Botox is one of the most um overcomplicated, you know, uh aesthetic uh ingredients, procedures, you know, molecules, whatever you want to call it, toxins, anything you want to call it, because it's literally working on receptor sites.
• 54:16
  SPEAKER_02: That's what it's doing.
• 54:17
  SPEAKER_02: It's working at the synaptic left between your muscle and your neuron, and it's paralyzing the muscle.
• 54:24
  SPEAKER_02: That's all it does.
• 54:25
  SPEAKER_02: There's nothing more complicated, guys.
• 54:27
  SPEAKER_02: It's that's what it does, you know?
• 54:29
  SPEAKER_02: So I I just don't know where all the confusion comes from.
• 54:33
  SPEAKER_02: But I want to actually ask you about our favorite ingredient.
• 54:36
  SPEAKER_02: I feel like everyone knows about this one, is hyaluronic acid.
• 54:39
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 54:40
  SPEAKER_02: Tell us about that.
• 54:42
  SPEAKER_03: So hyaluronic acid is also a major component in your body.
• 54:45
  SPEAKER_03: You know, when I talk about the the the those um moisturizing substances between skin cells, mucopoly saccharides, ceramides, phospholipids, hyaluronic acid.
• 54:54
  SPEAKER_03: Um, so hyaluronic acid kind of gives you volume.
• 54:57
  SPEAKER_03: I like to say it makes you fluffy.
• 54:59
  SPEAKER_03: And it's like a sponge, it also brings moisture to the skin, it absorbs anywhere from one to ten thousand times sweet and water.
• 55:05
  SPEAKER_03: But when we talk about volume, and volume also has to do with fat, but when we talk about volume in general, it's as much as 50% of what we perceive as aging.
• 55:18
  SPEAKER_03: So one of the things that they refer to in terms of volume is what's called a youthful triangle.
• 55:23
  SPEAKER_03: So if you put a triangle over your face, the highest, widest part would be the cheekbones, and then it should narrow down into a nice defined jawline.
• 55:32
  SPEAKER_04: Right.
• 55:32
  SPEAKER_03: As we age in that, those cheek pads move down with loss of volume, gravity, loss of fat.
• 55:39
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and that area flattens.
• 55:42
  SPEAKER_03: Eventually, the jawline becomes wider and more prominent than that that cheek area.
• 55:51
  SPEAKER_03: Um so volume is really, really important.
• 55:54
  SPEAKER_03: It's a major aspect.
• 55:55
  SPEAKER_03: And you know, you can take somebody and you can keep giving them facelifts, but without volume, they look skeletal.
• 56:00
  SPEAKER_03: So it gives you that three-dimension, that softness, and and and just that very youthful look.
• 56:07
  SPEAKER_03: Now, hyaluronic acid has been used in skincare for a long time.
• 56:14
  SPEAKER_03: And I've used it in every you look at our ingredient listing, I stick it in a lot of things.
• 56:18
  SPEAKER_03: It's a very large molecule, and it doesn't really uh it sits on the surface, but it's kind of short-lived.
• 56:26
  SPEAKER_03: So it helps with hydration, but and I don't think it's a it's a miracle hydrator, so to speak.
• 56:33
  SPEAKER_03: However, there are newer forms of hyaluronic acid.
• 56:40
  SPEAKER_03: And what we have is we have a form of hyaluronic acid that's actually a very tiny molecule.
• 56:45
  SPEAKER_03: Now I'm gonna back up for a second.
• 56:47
  SPEAKER_03: Everybody's heard of hyaluronic acid injections in the face.
• 56:51
  SPEAKER_03: So, what do they do?
• 56:52
  SPEAKER_03: They can be used for fine lines and wrinkles, or you can use it in a uh much more viscous form for things like lifting and cheek area and things like that.
• 57:04
  SPEAKER_03: And what most people don't know, and what a lot of practitioners don't even know, injectors, is that it's not the hyaluronic acid that gives you the correction.
• 57:14
  SPEAKER_03: Hyaluronic acid acts as a scaffolding or as a foundation for collagen to form around it.
• 57:24
  SPEAKER_03: And that's what gives you the long-term correction, which could be six months, or in some of the cases, and with voluma and things like that, it could be a year, a year and a half or more.
• 57:33
  SPEAKER_03: They're finding that even though it moves around, it may be in the skin even a lot longer than that, just not in the right place.
• 57:37
  SPEAKER_03: But at any rate, that's another story.
• 57:40
  SPEAKER_03: So um, so these tiny little molecules were able to get them to penetrate.
• 57:45
  SPEAKER_03: Now, just to give you an idea, just one of these molecules is 50 times more hydrating.
• 57:52
  SPEAKER_03: So instead of one to 10,000 times suede and water, it's 50 times more than that.
• 57:57
  SPEAKER_03: And instead of like kind of just going away a couple hours, at 24 hours, you still have five times as much in the skin as you would with anything else.
• 58:04
  SPEAKER_03: And what happens when you do this day and night is you're building kind of a reservoir, it's helping to encourage collagen.
• 58:13
  SPEAKER_03: I love that doesn't replace injectables, but it just gives the skin so much more dimension and softness, it just makes it look more volumized.
• 58:22
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I mean hyaluronic is everywhere too.
• 58:25
  SPEAKER_03: It's like in every single platform at this point.
• 58:29
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, this is a lot more expensive.
• 58:31
  SPEAKER_03: And what we do is we put it in a serum, we put it in a cream for people that have drier skin and maybe they're in you know harsher climates and things like that.
• 58:41
  SPEAKER_03: And we also have it in a lip product.
• 58:44
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and the the end point is the same for all of these products, but we just we have, for example, in the cream, there's some additional ingredients that help with barrier function and really make a huge difference in terms of how the skin responds under different conditions.
• 59:00
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, are you referring to Hyla 3D?
• 59:02
  SPEAKER_02: That's like my ultimate favorite moisturizer in the case.
• 59:04
  SPEAKER_03: Hallo 3D cream serum and lips.
• 59:06
  SPEAKER_03: Oh my gosh, you guys really phenomenal new hyaluronic acid.
• 59:11
  SPEAKER_02: Hyla 3D in cream form is literally my favorite moisturizer on this planet.
• 59:17
  SPEAKER_02: This moisturizer, and I have to tell you all about this because I've been using it for many months now.
• 59:23
  SPEAKER_02: I love it, I'm obsessed with it.
• 59:24
  SPEAKER_02: I don't think I could if I were to stop using this, and this is real talk, like true testimonial.
• 59:30
  SPEAKER_02: If I stop using this cream and I go to another cream that's supposed to be nourishing or hydrating, whatever you want to call it, whatever the label says, immediately my skin is like, uh, what are you doing?
• 59:40
  SPEAKER_02: Because I don't feel good.
• 59:43
  SPEAKER_02: It doesn't feel the same, you know, it just doesn't look the same, it doesn't feel the same.
• 59:47
  SPEAKER_02: So hilo 3D is one of my all-time favorite products in your line, Jen.
• 59:51
  SPEAKER_02: It's so good, so good.
• 59:53
  SPEAKER_03: So, yeah, and and what you're referring to is I have something in that cream um that I came across, which is again new, and it is a um moisturizing molecule that literally within two hours, when you have skin that that actually some of the lines and wrinkles are really kind of dryness and just weather and barrier and function and all of that, within two hours, it completely eradicates that.
• 1:00:21
  SPEAKER_03: And it also has technology that causes the skin to react under these uh colder conditions, um, like a younger skin would act under really favorable conditions, and it also upregulates all kinds of moisturizing factors and protective factors in the skin.
• 1:00:43
  SPEAKER_03: It's it's really extraordinary.
• 1:00:44
  SPEAKER_03: So I put that in the cream.
• 1:00:46
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, the the cream is that it's just next level.
• 1:00:49
  SPEAKER_02: That's like the best.
• 1:00:50
  SPEAKER_02: If you're looking for a hydrating or anything that's just going to make your skin glow from the inside out, and I really mean from the inside out, it's highly 3D, is just there's nothing else like it on the market.
• 1:01:03
  SPEAKER_02: Hands down.
• 1:01:04
  SPEAKER_02: Hands down, yeah.
• 1:01:05
  SPEAKER_02: It's not I mean I'm just telling the truth.
• 1:01:08
  SPEAKER_02: But um, next one on the list, Jan, is ceramides.
• 1:01:11
  SPEAKER_02: Now, we all know about ceramides a little bit in terms of their, you know, moisturizing properties, I guess, is the marketing terms people use, but I'd love for you to tell us about ceramides.
• 1:01:20
  SPEAKER_03: So, you know, they're critical in retaining moisture in the skin, and they're part of that substance that's again between your cells, the glycoseminoglycans, which are ceramides, phospholipid, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides.
• 1:01:34
  SPEAKER_03: They're fatty acids, fatty lipids.
• 1:01:37
  SPEAKER_03: They make up about 30 to 40 percent of skin's outer layers, and they're they help with barrier and they've they function helping to prevent um uh or to provide a defense to environmental pollutions and toxins and harsh weather.
• 1:01:55
  SPEAKER_03: And a lot of times you hear when people have contact dermatitis or they have um uh eczema, things like that, that sometimes they don't have the same level of ceramides in the skin.
• 1:02:05
  SPEAKER_03: They don't have that same protective barrier.
• 1:02:07
  SPEAKER_03: Um, there's about 12 different types of ceramides that we've identified, and they can also make a barrier to prevent moisture from leaving.
• 1:02:16
  SPEAKER_03: Uh they decrease as we get older.
• 1:02:18
  SPEAKER_03: Um, so I like ceramides, again, kind of a supporting player.
• 1:02:23
  SPEAKER_03: One of the things that I tell people, because we don't one of the things we don't make is we don't make a um a body product, just to say a real moisturizing body product.
• 1:02:32
  SPEAKER_03: And so one of the things that I'd recommend, and by the way, we we use ceramides in in just lots and lots of our products, but one of the things that I recommend that's inexpensive as a drugstore product, um, is Cera V.
• 1:02:45
  SPEAKER_03: Oh, yes.
• 1:02:46
  SPEAKER_03: C-E-R-A, capital V-E.
• 1:02:48
  SPEAKER_03: What do they have in them?
• 1:02:50
  SPEAKER_03: They have actually um some, I think some of the ceramide combination they have in there is patented, and it's a product that has been really researched by physicians who use it on skin that is very compromised.
• 1:03:06
  SPEAKER_03: Right, right.
• 1:03:07
  SPEAKER_02: No, I interviewed uh Tom Allison from Cerebee, and we were talking about the their ceramides and uh yeah, amazing, amazing recommendation in terms of that.
• 1:03:16
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, for the body care.
• 1:03:17
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely, I agree.
• 1:03:18
  SPEAKER_02: I use their I use their cream actually for body care, but your body wash is my favorite, though.
• 1:03:23
  SPEAKER_02: I will say that.
• 1:03:24
  SPEAKER_03: Okay, so here's here's what I do because you know, particularly now we're getting towards summertime, right?
• 1:03:30
  SPEAKER_03: And so in the summertime, when you're you know you bare your legs more, you want them to look all so nice and silky.
• 1:03:36
  SPEAKER_03: So what I do is I use our body scrub, our glycolic body scrub.
• 1:03:41
  SPEAKER_03: Um I use um when I get out, I put on an oil right away because you want to kind of trap the water.
• 1:03:49
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I I do my um now.
• 1:03:52
  SPEAKER_03: This is something we're coming out with, by the way.
• 1:03:54
  SPEAKER_03: I do a glycolic cream on the legs.
• 1:03:57
  SPEAKER_03: We're coming out with a glycolic body product, which is phenomenal.
• 1:04:00
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and then I also I type, I then I do the ceree over the top of that.
• 1:04:06
  SPEAKER_03: So I'm just trapping in all this moisture.
• 1:04:09
  SPEAKER_03: And then I do our cellulite X on my upper thigh and butt area because that's where I have some cellulite.
• 1:04:14
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and and and that gives me a surface.
• 1:04:18
  SPEAKER_03: If I want to do a sunless tanner, that'll give you the surface for a sunless tanner that'll just make your skin look like you can see your face in it.
• 1:04:24
  SPEAKER_03: It's it's wonderful, but it also gives me just long-term moisture, even in drier conditions.
• 1:04:32
  SPEAKER_03: My skin just stays moist so much longer.
• 1:04:33
  SPEAKER_03: And you know, your legs and stuff, they don't produce oil, they don't have oil glands.
• 1:04:37
  SPEAKER_03: Right, right.
• 1:04:38
  SPEAKER_02: No, I know that's a really good tip.
• 1:04:40
  SPEAKER_02: I'm gonna actually try that because I haven't I haven't done those steps, so yeah, I haven't done that, but I'm definitely gonna try it because my legs are always like I feel like with with women of color or people of color, like for me, whenever I shave, I've got those like darker spots.
• 1:04:54
  SPEAKER_02: So I'm always looking for ways to like, you know what I mean, help with that.
• 1:04:57
  SPEAKER_02: So I'm gonna definitely try that out.
• 1:04:59
  SPEAKER_03: Now the next you'll love the glycolic because also it it it has glycolic also um has medical data for ingrown hairs and all kinds of things like that, too.
• 1:05:09
  SPEAKER_02: So yeah, no, I I wanna I wanna dive into that.
• 1:05:12
  SPEAKER_02: I can't wait to try it.
• 1:05:13
  SPEAKER_02: Oh my gosh.
• 1:05:14
  SPEAKER_02: Every time you every time you recommend a product from your line to me, I'm just like over the moon excited to try it, and I end up getting hooked.
• 1:05:20
  SPEAKER_02: So I'm pretty sure it's gonna happen again.
• 1:05:23
  SPEAKER_02: Um the next one, I I know uh we're over time, but I I really want to, you know, get your insights on this, Jen.
• 1:05:29
  SPEAKER_02: Is um next one is anti-inflammatories in general, like whatever you can tell us about them, because again, you know buzzwords, right?
• 1:05:36
  SPEAKER_03: So I'm much bigger on anti-inflammatories than antioxidants.
• 1:05:40
  SPEAKER_03: I think antioxidants um are kind of overrated and not really understood.
• 1:05:44
  SPEAKER_03: That's a much more complex issue.
• 1:05:46
  SPEAKER_03: Um, or I shouldn't say it's more complex than anti inflammatories, but it's a complex issue.
• 1:05:50
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but um aging is an inflammatory disease, acne's inflammatory, rosaceous inflammatory based, discoloration, etc.
• 1:05:59
  SPEAKER_03: Aging.
• 1:06:00
  SPEAKER_03: Uh inflammation breaks down collagen.
• 1:06:02
  SPEAKER_03: Inflammation is, you know, one of the factors in heart disease.
• 1:06:05
  SPEAKER_03: It's one of the factors in cancer diabetes, you know, so many different diseases.
• 1:06:11
  SPEAKER_03: But in terms of your skin, um, it when you break down collagen and lastin, it contributes to wrinkle formation.
• 1:06:19
  SPEAKER_03: And so I love anti-inflammatories.
• 1:06:22
  SPEAKER_03: I use them throughout the entire line.
• 1:06:24
  SPEAKER_03: I don't formulate anything unless I feel like it has a lot of that as an underlying factor.
• 1:06:29
  SPEAKER_03: So it would be a scroll pomitate is an anti-inflammatory, DMAE, glycolic, salicylic, azolic acid, peptides, transferring growth factor beta 1, thymus and beta 4, phytomelanin, coenzyme Q10, interferin alpha 2B, the retinol is an anti-inflammatory, benzyl peroxide is an anti-inflammatory.
• 1:06:46
  SPEAKER_03: Um the uh, you know, green tea extract, uh, niacinamide, things like liquor gesture, turmeric.
• 1:06:53
  SPEAKER_03: Um it goes on and on.
• 1:06:55
  SPEAKER_03: So I'm huge on anti-inflammatories, and I think that's really important.
• 1:06:59
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 1:07:00
  SPEAKER_02: No, anti-inflammatories are I I agree with you.
• 1:07:02
  SPEAKER_02: I think they're very, very um not talked about enough.
• 1:07:06
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm I am also getting sick of hearing antioxidants everywhere.
• 1:07:09
  SPEAKER_02: Like we really need to kind of bring up anti-inflammatories a lot more for sure.
• 1:07:14
  SPEAKER_02: So that was I I like that overview.
• 1:07:16
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you for that.
• 1:07:17
  SPEAKER_02: Um, now you had I think you just mentioned CoQ10, right?
• 1:07:20
  SPEAKER_02: So I would love to talk about CoQ10.
• 1:07:22
  SPEAKER_02: Like, what is it?
• 1:07:22
  SPEAKER_02: And and you know, this is a really interesting ingredient, Jan, for me as well, because I remember the first time I had ever heard about CoQ10 was Indy Lee, and I didn't even know what it was back then, you know.
• 1:07:33
  SPEAKER_02: So and I I don't think I even know now what it what it is.
• 1:07:36
  SPEAKER_03: So I think it was discovered around 1952, and it's a powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, it's naturally present in the body, highest levels in the heart.
• 1:07:47
  SPEAKER_03: In fact, at one time in Japan, it was actually a prescription and it was used as a heart medication.
• 1:07:53
  SPEAKER_03: And when they it's known also as ubiquinine.
• 1:07:56
  SPEAKER_03: Um my understanding is that when you look at coenzyme Q10 in the body, um if you the the healthier you are, the more you have coenzyme Q10.
• 1:08:10
  SPEAKER_03: And if you're having certain ailments or certain disabilities, uh you have less coenzyme Q10.
• 1:08:16
  SPEAKER_03: So the production decreases with age, it's protected to the brains, lungs, it may help with cancer prevention.
• 1:08:22
  SPEAKER_03: It's stored in the mitochondria, so that's you know, of the organelle of the cells.
• 1:08:28
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and it's what it is, is I like to think of it as kind of like a little cellular battery.
• 1:08:35
  SPEAKER_03: So, what coenzyme Q10 does is it helps the mitochondria to produce energy and it protects cells from oxidative damage.
• 1:08:45
  SPEAKER_03: So, again, it decreases with age, and topical use has been shown to reduce oxidative damage caused by UV radiation.
• 1:08:54
  SPEAKER_03: When you take it internally, there's some studies that have indicated that it actually may uh give you sun protection.
• 1:09:01
  SPEAKER_03: Not a don't don't stop using your sunscreen, but it may help to protect you from radiation and damage by taking it.
• 1:09:09
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, people with low levels of coenzyme Q10 are more likely to develop skin cancer, that's been shown.
• 1:09:14
  SPEAKER_03: Helps retain moisture, minimizes appearance of wrinkles.
• 1:09:18
  SPEAKER_03: I I love it for it helping to minimize appearance of wrinkles and protecting skin from damage.
• 1:09:23
  SPEAKER_03: So um I I use co-I love coenzyme Q10 and products, and I'll tell you something really interesting.
• 1:09:29
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 1:09:30
  SPEAKER_03: So I I get my blood tested generally every quarter.
• 1:09:35
  SPEAKER_03: If I could, I'd test it every day because I always look at when you when you look at a blood test, it's a window in time.
• 1:09:42
  SPEAKER_03: It doesn't necessarily mean that's what you're going to be tomorrow or what you were the day before, but you know, we try to string it all together and look at our health in general.
• 1:09:50
  SPEAKER_03: Well, one researcher was asked, How much coenzyme Q10 should you take internally as you're aging?
• 1:09:57
  SPEAKER_03: And he said, Well, how much can you afford?
• 1:10:01
  SPEAKER_03: So I took him at his word.
• 1:10:03
  SPEAKER_03: And I actually don't think I take a lot, excessive amount of coenzyme Q10, because um, as you get older, you generally instead of taking like 100 or 150 milligrams a day, you want to be more in like maybe 250, 300, something like that.
• 1:10:20
  SPEAKER_03: So, anyway, that's what I was taking, and my blood test came back that my coenzyme Q levels are just absolutely through the roof.
• 1:10:29
  SPEAKER_03: Now, so it's marked as being high, but nobody can seem to tell me what's bad about that.
• 1:10:37
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 1:10:38
  SPEAKER_03: But I'm told I should take less.
• 1:10:40
  SPEAKER_03: Now, but so what would be the problem, or what would what what would be something that it would have be would would be an underlying causative issue?
• 1:10:54
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know.
• 1:10:54
  SPEAKER_02: Nobody can seem to tell me.
• 1:10:57
  SPEAKER_02: I don't think there is an answer to that.
• 1:10:58
  SPEAKER_02: I don't I don't see what it could do.
• 1:11:00
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's a mitochondrial uh electron transport chain enzyme, right?
• 1:11:05
  SPEAKER_02: So it's just working with electrons.
• 1:11:07
  SPEAKER_02: I don't understand.
• 1:11:09
  SPEAKER_02: Hmm, that's interesting.
• 1:11:10
  SPEAKER_02: I'm gonna look into that, see if there's any kind of toxicity level, but I don't think there is I've never even heard of that.
• 1:11:14
  SPEAKER_03: In fact, I yeah, this was an unusual.
• 1:11:17
  SPEAKER_03: This is the first time I think I've ever been tested for that as well, because usually you don't see coenzyme Q10 showing up on you know a blood test.
• 1:11:22
  SPEAKER_03: But anyway, but it's really good for your skin, and I I I really like using it a lot.
• 1:11:28
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 1:11:29
  SPEAKER_02: Well, I mean, we're gonna have to definitely check that one out.
• 1:11:32
  SPEAKER_02: Now, what about your products?
• 1:11:33
  SPEAKER_02: Like which ones do you utilize it in the most?
• 1:11:36
  SPEAKER_03: Oh gosh, you know, off the top of my head, um I have it in quite a few things.
• 1:11:41
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I think our age intervention cream and um there's a number of things.
• 1:11:50
  SPEAKER_03: I have to think about that one because often.
• 1:11:52
  SPEAKER_03: I'll come back to you with that.
• 1:11:53
  SPEAKER_02: I'll probably put a list together for the listeners just to have it there in case anyone's you know interested.
• 1:11:58
  SPEAKER_02: Um, but next one is sunscreen chemicals, Jen.
• 1:12:01
  SPEAKER_02: And I love this one because my absolute favorite sunscreen is yours.
• 1:12:06
  SPEAKER_02: I cannot use any other sunscreen.
• 1:12:08
  SPEAKER_02: And just for everyone listening, I'm very sensitive to sunscreen and the chemicals in it because every time, other than Jan sunscreen that I've used a sunscreen, I break out and I always get the same kind of acne, and it reminds me of my cystic acne when I was a teenager.
• 1:12:22
  SPEAKER_02: So, Jan, if you could explain sunscreen chemicals.
• 1:12:24
  SPEAKER_03: So is that the SPF 33 that you're using?
• 1:12:27
  SPEAKER_03: Yep, okay, it's part of the system.
• 1:12:29
  SPEAKER_03: Yep.
• 1:12:29
  SPEAKER_03: We make three sunscreens.
• 1:12:31
  SPEAKER_03: SPF 33 um is my favorite.
• 1:12:34
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I well, they're all my favorites, but that this one is the one that I use more than any others, and then we make an SPF 45 that's tinted, and we make a physical screen as well.
• 1:12:43
  SPEAKER_03: So this is a complex issue.
• 1:12:46
  SPEAKER_03: Um, I'm gonna be real general and I'm gonna focus on more on the chemical sunscreens as opposed to physical sunscreens.
• 1:12:53
  SPEAKER_03: So sunscreens are over-the-counter drugs, they are highly regulated by the FDA.
• 1:13:00
  SPEAKER_03: So even when you look at the back of a sunscreen, they're pretty much all exactly the same.
• 1:13:04
  SPEAKER_03: They have a box and they have drug facts, and they even regulate the size of the little um draw, the square that you put around the box.
• 1:13:15
  SPEAKER_03: They regulate type size, everything is regulated.
• 1:13:18
  SPEAKER_03: And what you can say about a sunscreen is also highly regulated.
• 1:13:22
  SPEAKER_03: So you can't make claims just like, oh, gee, the sunscreen protects you from blue light.
• 1:13:27
  SPEAKER_03: That is a drug claim.
• 1:13:29
  unknown: Yeah.
• 1:13:29
  SPEAKER_03: And there's no testing available to really determine if that is true.
• 1:13:33
  SPEAKER_03: Um, so sometimes you see claims like that, but you need to know that that is something that is not.
• 1:13:38
  SPEAKER_03: If the FDA saw that, they would send a warning letter and chances are that product would be removed from the market.
• 1:13:45
  SPEAKER_03: Um so when you make a sunscreen, legally you have to take, send that sunscreen off to a special lab with an FDA-approved facility that tests it and they determine whether or not you're able to make certain claims.
• 1:14:05
  SPEAKER_03: So, in other words, what is your SP after?
• 1:14:07
  SPEAKER_03: Is it going to be a 30, a 33, a 35, a 45, whatever?
• 1:14:11
  SPEAKER_03: Um, is it going to be water resistant?
• 1:14:14
  SPEAKER_03: You can't say waterproof anymore, but you can say water resistant.
• 1:14:16
  SPEAKER_03: Is it going to be um broad spectrum, uh meaning that it goes beyond 320 nanometers and protects into the UVA range?
• 1:14:27
  SPEAKER_03: So they determine all of that.
• 1:14:29
  SPEAKER_03: And when they get that sunscreen, they don't know whether they are testing a physical screen or chemical screen.
• 1:14:38
  SPEAKER_03: Oh, wow.
• 1:14:39
  SPEAKER_03: So whatever it comes out to, that's what it is.
• 1:14:42
  SPEAKER_03: They're not saying, oh, this is a physical screen, it's better.
• 1:14:46
  SPEAKER_03: Now, there are some sunscreens that are better than other sunscreens because of the formula, because of different things.
• 1:14:54
  SPEAKER_03: And the SPF, that's another thing that's deceptive because the difference between an SPF 30 and difference between an SPF 50, for example, is minuscule.
• 1:15:04
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, minuscule.
• 1:15:06
  SPEAKER_03: And you can use the best sunscreen in the world, and you're going to still get around two to three percent absorption of radiation in your skin, which is a lot.
• 1:15:17
  SPEAKER_03: Now, I'll tell you something else about a study that was done, and this was a number of years ago, and it was between uh SPF 12 with zinc and an SPF-12 with uh parsol 1789, which is um abovevenzone.
• 1:15:35
  SPEAKER_03: That was the brand name back then.
• 1:15:36
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and they were measuring something called immune function protection, which is different than you just go outside and you either burn or you don't burn.
• 1:15:46
  SPEAKER_03: Right.
• 1:15:47
  SPEAKER_03: Because you can be absorbing a lot of radiation into your skin and not burn, and that's in the UVA range, so from 320 to 400 nanometers, and not burn and think you're doing just fine.
• 1:16:00
  SPEAKER_03: And that really plays wreaks havoc with discoloration and aging and all the kinds of things that you know take years to show up, but that we don't want to see.
• 1:16:11
  SPEAKER_03: So, in terms of immune function protection, the zinc formulation actually was about the equivalent of an SPF4.
• 1:16:21
  SPEAKER_03: And the parsal or the abobenzone preparation became the equivalent of a 45.
• 1:16:31
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 1:16:32
  SPEAKER_03: So when we talk about sunscreens, it's a lot more complex than oh gee, a physical block is better, or this or that or the other.
• 1:16:38
  SPEAKER_03: Now, the other thing that I want to mention is that because you absorb that radiation, regardless of whether you are, you know, using the what you think is the best sunscreen in the world, um, there are things that we can add in.
• 1:16:53
  SPEAKER_03: We can't make claims for them.
• 1:16:55
  SPEAKER_03: We can't make claims on the label, we can't, you know, uh, because sunscreen claims take years to get through the FDA.
• 1:17:02
  SPEAKER_03: But for example, in your um SPF33, we have something called phytomelanin.
• 1:17:06
  SPEAKER_03: Now, the most protective agent you have in your skin, the most protective element is your own melanin.
• 1:17:12
  SPEAKER_03: We all know that the darker your skin color is, the less issue you're gonna have with fine lines and wrinkles.
• 1:17:17
  SPEAKER_03: If you're really dark skin, you're not gonna get them.
• 1:17:19
  SPEAKER_03: And so phytomelanin is chemically identical to human melanin, and it comes from the date palm, and we've been able to make it colorless.
• 1:17:27
  SPEAKER_03: So it's like kind of like putting a blanket over your head.
• 1:17:30
  SPEAKER_03: Then we have something called beta-glucan 1-3, attaches to hang Langerhan cells, look like little curly hues, like pigtails, go to the surface of the skin.
• 1:17:36
  SPEAKER_03: First line of defense, they sit there and they're like little soldiers that are ready to help if you've got contact with radiation and help to put in uh signal all these processes to go into place to help protect your skin, but they get compromised very easily and attaches to Langerhan self and helps them be from becoming compromised.
• 1:17:55
  SPEAKER_03: And finally, among other things, I have an oil capture system.
• 1:18:00
  SPEAKER_03: Now, do you know why people don't wear sunscreen?
• 1:18:03
  SPEAKER_03: Only one third of Americans wear them on a consistent basis.
• 1:18:05
  SPEAKER_03: The numbers drop from time to time.
• 1:18:08
  SPEAKER_03: Why is that?
• 1:18:08
  SPEAKER_03: Not because we're stupid, but because well, maybe we're stupid, but because we don't like how they feel.
• 1:18:16
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah.
• 1:18:18
  SPEAKER_02: That makes sense.
• 1:18:19
  SPEAKER_02: Because that's my problem too.
• 1:18:21
  SPEAKER_02: I can't stand sunscreens other than yours because they make my face feel like I have like a mask on it, literally.
• 1:18:28
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
• 1:18:29
  SPEAKER_03: And are you are you just you feel like you're making them break you're breaking out?
• 1:18:33
  SPEAKER_03: So we don't have anything cometogenic, anything that's acneogenic, but also this oil capture system, it has an unlimited capacity to absorb oil, but it can't absorb water and it can't absorb active.
• 1:18:44
  SPEAKER_03: So if your skin is combination or tend to be oily, it it just really balances it out and it just feels so good on the skin.
• 1:18:53
  SPEAKER_03: But if you are dry, it makes your skin really soft and silky and hydrated.
• 1:18:57
  SPEAKER_03: And it's just fabulous with you know, any type of makeup, foundation, powder, whatever, or hopefully you're not, you know, you don't you don't feel like you have to wear foundation.
• 1:19:10
  SPEAKER_02: So well, that well, that was the thing, is that for me, it it's more of like, you know, I use sunscreen as my last step.
• 1:19:18
  SPEAKER_02: And for me, like if I were to put on makeup, the biggest problem with other sunscreens that I've had is that exact thing you described where it's like it's so heavy that you can't even layer on top of it.
• 1:19:29
  SPEAKER_02: It just it's like the last thing you want to do is put something else on top of this thing, you know what I mean?
• 1:19:35
  SPEAKER_02: So I really, really enjoy yours because it's it's very it's just natural, it feels natural.
• 1:19:40
  SPEAKER_02: It doesn't you can't feel it throughout the day.
• 1:19:42
  SPEAKER_02: You can still go about your routine, you can still put on makeup on top, and also it's really great for the summer months for everyone listening, you know, in terms of if you are a makeup gal and you love your makeup and you want a sunscreen that's going to be there to help with the oil control, this is the option.
• 1:19:57
  SPEAKER_02: So yeah, it really just makes a big difference.
• 1:20:00
  SPEAKER_02: Yep, huge difference.
• 1:20:01
  SPEAKER_02: Now, the next one, um, obviously, you know, we have to ask you about this, Jan, is the retinoids.
• 1:20:06
  SPEAKER_02: If you could tell us about retinoids.
• 1:20:08
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 1:20:09
  SPEAKER_03: I'll tell you, there's so much misinformation on retinoids, and I I think it should be a law that everybody has to use a retinoid.
• 1:20:16
  SPEAKER_03: So number one misconception about retinoids, gee, don't wear them in the summertime because they cause sun sensitivity.
• 1:20:25
  SPEAKER_03: That is not true.
• 1:20:27
  SPEAKER_03: So, true sun sensitivity is a chemical reaction with UV light.
• 1:20:32
  SPEAKER_03: So, for example, you get prescribed tetracycline or doxycycline, and it says on there that you may be sun sensitive.
• 1:20:40
  SPEAKER_03: And even if you're wearing a sunscreen, if you are one of those individuals, you will burn to a crisp.
• 1:20:46
  SPEAKER_03: I had it happen to me years ago.
• 1:20:47
  SPEAKER_03: I ended up in the emergency room.
• 1:20:51
  SPEAKER_03: And um, I was wearing full sunscreen and going in a convertible, and I just absolutely burned to a crisp.
• 1:21:00
  SPEAKER_03: And there are certain other drugs and things that can cause sun sensitivity, but a retinoid is not one.
• 1:21:06
  SPEAKER_03: They've actually done a study where they took skin that was highly retinized.
• 1:21:13
  SPEAKER_03: So, you know, people that don't necessarily take the time to acclimate and their skin is red and it's scaly, and they stuck it out in the sun and let it burn to a crisp.
• 1:21:22
  SPEAKER_03: And then they took regular skin that wasn't retinized and let that burn to a crisp.
• 1:21:27
  SPEAKER_03: And the skin that was retinized actually healed faster and healed with less damage than the skin that didn't have the retinoid.
• 1:21:39
  SPEAKER_03: Wow.
• 1:21:41
  SPEAKER_03: So retinoids, number one, when we talk about aging, what we're talking about is that the instructions that are going to our cells, the instructions coming from our DNA, are compromised.
• 1:21:53
  SPEAKER_03: That's the bottom line.
• 1:21:54
  SPEAKER_03: It's more complex than that, but that's the bottom line.
• 1:21:57
  SPEAKER_03: So you're getting compromised instructions, and over time they become more compromised, and so you don't repair the same way.
• 1:22:03
  SPEAKER_03: This starts happening when you go into a catabolic state, probably around the age, you know, around the age of 20.
• 1:22:09
  SPEAKER_03: And it's probably kind of like your, if you want to look at your instructions as like a computer or hard drive, somehow they got corrupted at that point.
• 1:22:18
  SPEAKER_03: And um, so at any rate, um, you see this as signs of aging, and it's stuff that happened pretty much before the age of 10, but it's you know, it's your brown spots and fine lines and wrinkles and textual changes and larger pores and all of that.
• 1:22:33
  SPEAKER_03: What we know, and it's this is an absolute fact, is that the right retinoid actually corrects the instructions coming from your DNA, right?
• 1:22:44
  SPEAKER_03: So it's extraordinary for that.
• 1:22:46
  SPEAKER_03: Secondly, the right retinoid thickens the dermis up to twice as much.
• 1:22:55
  SPEAKER_03: The right retinoid can grow new blood vessels near the surface of your skin.
• 1:23:00
  SPEAKER_03: So that microvascularization that makes the skin look so healthy and glowing.
• 1:23:04
  SPEAKER_03: And we have see, we have receptor sites, alpha beta gamma, in our skin for retinoids.
• 1:23:10
  unknown: Right.
• 1:23:11
  SPEAKER_03: So our skin recognizes them, it knows what to do with them.
• 1:23:14
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 1:23:15
  SPEAKER_03: Some retinoids will hit certain receptor sites more than another.
• 1:23:18
  SPEAKER_03: Uh, acne was uh an interesting new uh retinoid for acne that hits the gamma receptor sites, of which I think about on the surface of skin, about 90% of them are gamma, so there's less irritation.
• 1:23:31
  SPEAKER_03: So, you know, again, it can be more complex, but um it's just the gold standard for aging, it's a gold standard for acne, it's a gold standard for discoloration.
• 1:23:42
  SPEAKER_03: Um retnoid, the right retinoid is extraordinary.
• 1:23:46
  SPEAKER_03: And the thing about our retinoid is that in our in this the the the study, and this was a study that was um done by uh a dermatologist um in Sacramento, um, is that 78% of patients have absolutely no side effects, not even what they would get with the lowest prescription retinoid.
• 1:24:07
  SPEAKER_03: 22% had maybe very mild redness or very mild flaking that was easily addressed by using it maybe every other night for the first week.
• 1:24:16
  SPEAKER_03: And the one of the derms in the study actually said, I will never again prescribe a prescription ret prescription retinoid unless the patient begs me for it, because this works so much better.
• 1:24:26
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, and you know what this reminds me of is like opiate receptors, because there's so many opiate receptors, and people always talk about this.
• 1:24:33
  SPEAKER_02: Like in in like, you know, in my field of medicine, they're always talking about how you know there are certain opiates that are better for certain types of pain because there's mu receptors and all those, you know.
• 1:24:44
  SPEAKER_02: So it's like it makes me think of that.
• 1:24:46
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah.
• 1:24:47
  SPEAKER_02: It's very interesting.
• 1:24:48
  SPEAKER_02: Now, the next one is BPO, and I'm very confused about this one because I really want to learn about it.
• 1:24:54
  SPEAKER_02: If you could clarify what BPO is okay, BPO, benzo peroxide.
• 1:24:59
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, so it's for acne.
• 1:25:01
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, now here's how benzyl peroxide works benzoyl forces peroxide in the follicle where it releases oxygen and see acne bacteria can't live in oxygen, and it kills it better than anything we've ever seen.
• 1:25:15
  SPEAKER_03: Anything that's a statement by the American Academy of Dermatology.
• 1:25:18
  SPEAKER_03: Plus, if it works for you once, it will work for you forever if you're at the right percentage.
• 1:25:23
  SPEAKER_03: You cannot develop a resistance, you can get complete total clearing and you can manage.
• 1:25:28
  SPEAKER_03: Now, it's not the only thing that we want people to use, but it is a huge component.
• 1:25:36
  SPEAKER_03: Because if the the C agne bacteria, which is harmless, you've got it in your body.
• 1:25:41
  SPEAKER_03: Unfortunately, you can't just kill it off and say, okay, it's gone.
• 1:25:44
  SPEAKER_03: This is it's bactericidal.
• 1:25:46
  SPEAKER_03: It's bacteriostatic, you have to kill it every day.
• 1:25:49
  SPEAKER_03: But if it's not eating the oil and it's not excreting the fatty acid byproduct, your follicle doesn't rupture.
• 1:25:56
  SPEAKER_03: Never everything stays in the follicle, you don't break out.
• 1:25:59
  SPEAKER_03: Now, we do things to get in there and keep the cells from sticking together and to clear the follicle with glycolic, etc.
• 1:26:06
  SPEAKER_03: But it is a miracle worker.
• 1:26:09
  SPEAKER_03: And you know, one of the latest medications, prescription medications for rosacea, you know what it is?
• 1:26:14
  SPEAKER_03: It's benzyl peroxide, so it works for rosacea.
• 1:26:18
  SPEAKER_03: Um, and the other thing is that it is the benzyl proxide we use is not mom's benzyl proxide, it's not prescription, it's not infomercial, it's not drugstore, it doesn't dry.
• 1:26:34
  SPEAKER_03: It so all benzyl peroxide is micronized, so it doesn't feel gritty.
• 1:26:38
  SPEAKER_03: But this is micronized 12 times smaller, and it goes in faster, it works faster, and it doesn't dry.
• 1:26:47
  SPEAKER_03: We did the study in Alberta, Canada.
• 1:26:51
  SPEAKER_03: Um, Dr.
• 1:26:51
  SPEAKER_03: Jaggie Rao, who's a board-certified derm in Canada and in the U.S., head of the dermatology residency program at the University of Alberta, and the CEO and founder of the Acne Clinics of Canada.
• 1:27:01
  SPEAKER_03: And it was done in weather that was over 20 degrees below zero.
• 1:27:05
  SPEAKER_03: Patients in the study had skin that was more hydrated after the study than before the study.
• 1:27:13
  SPEAKER_03: Um, now what we do is we put it in a product called duality.
• 1:27:18
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, duality.
• 1:27:20
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, and so you've got one chamber with benzyl peroxide and one chamber with the retinoid.
• 1:27:25
  SPEAKER_03: And so you press one side, you press the other side, you mix it together in your hand, and you're able to address acne and the appearance of aging simultaneously.
• 1:27:37
  SPEAKER_03: Brilliant.
• 1:27:38
  SPEAKER_02: I love that product.
• 1:27:39
  SPEAKER_02: By the way, duality is amazing.
• 1:27:40
  SPEAKER_02: Duality is like one of my, I think, all time favorite products in your line because um, along with the highlight 3D face cream, because it's so so good.
• 1:27:49
  SPEAKER_02: And I don't think I ever really got into the use of retinol or benzyl uh peroxide before this product, to be honest, if I'm very, very candid, because um I I was always scared of them to be honest.
• 1:28:02
  SPEAKER_02: I was scared of them.
• 1:28:02
  SPEAKER_02: And I and I didn't trust anybody who was formulating it because I was like, Well, where how are you dosing it?
• 1:28:07
  SPEAKER_02: How are you, you know?
• 1:28:08
  SPEAKER_02: So when you when you had me try it, I was like, this is amazing.
• 1:28:12
  SPEAKER_02: This is really, really cool stuff, and it works.
• 1:28:14
  SPEAKER_02: And so if you use it for a few months, for everyone listening out there, for anyone who hasn't tried duality yet, if you use it for the first month, you're gonna see results within the first month.
• 1:28:23
  SPEAKER_02: I promise you, you're gonna look so different, like in terms of just how radiant your skin is, how healthier you how much healthier it looks, like your makeup's gonna go on differently.
• 1:28:32
  SPEAKER_02: It really works.
• 1:28:33
  SPEAKER_02: So I I love that product, it's so good.
• 1:28:36
  SPEAKER_03: So you everybody who's listening, you can't see my skin.
• 1:28:40
  SPEAKER_03: Ecta, you can see it.
• 1:28:41
  SPEAKER_03: But uh, first of all, I use duality every night, and my skin is not dry and it's not it's Jan has gorgeous skin, by the way.
• 1:28:49
  SPEAKER_03: She has literally perfect skin.
• 1:28:50
  SPEAKER_03: But I am two-time accutane failure, yeah.
• 1:28:55
  SPEAKER_02: So which is so shocking to me, by the way.
• 1:28:57
  SPEAKER_02: Every time I see you, I'm just like, I can't even believe it.
• 1:29:00
  SPEAKER_03: So I was I was one of those very, very few people, few teenagers, and probably the two percentile that had perfect skin as a teenager until I was about 19, and then I developed severe cystic acne.
• 1:29:12
  SPEAKER_03: So I was um this, you know, this is really a miracle.
• 1:29:17
  SPEAKER_03: Now I was able to get my skin more consistently clear before we developed duality.
• 1:29:25
  SPEAKER_03: Um, glycolic and there are other things that are also adjunctively extremely necessary and healthy.
• 1:29:33
  SPEAKER_03: But duality, duality is really a miracle worker, and you can get complete, total clearing, you can manage it.
• 1:29:41
  SPEAKER_03: You've got to do it every day.
• 1:29:42
  SPEAKER_03: If I miss a day, I can tell you it might not be for a day or two, but I'll break out.
• 1:29:49
  SPEAKER_02: So my favorite is to do the skinzyme mask at night, and then I'll put on my duality at night, and I it's so perfect.
• 1:29:57
  SPEAKER_02: Like you go to sleep, you wake up, your skin is beautiful, radiant, you know, all the great words.
• 1:30:02
  SPEAKER_02: It just works really well.
• 1:30:03
  SPEAKER_02: That that cripple combo of the of the skinzyme mask and then the duality uh with the dual chamber, it's it's perfect.
• 1:30:11
  SPEAKER_02: And then the highlight 3D, of course, for the for the moisturizer.
• 1:30:14
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, so love it, love it.
• 1:30:16
  SPEAKER_02: Now, the last ingredient, Jan, is a very, very interesting one.
• 1:30:20
  SPEAKER_02: It's a very new one.
• 1:30:21
  SPEAKER_02: I a lot of you might have not even heard about it, but um, I would love to get you to explain it to us, and that is cyclo um astragonol, stripe, cycloestragonol.
• 1:30:32
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, cycloestrogenol, yeah, which is kind of higher up the food train from the astrogalis plant.
• 1:30:39
  SPEAKER_03: Okay, so this is a product, this is an ingredient that um I use in a product called Agent Invention Regeneration Booster.
• 1:30:48
  SPEAKER_03: So I just call it booster, too long a name.
• 1:30:51
  SPEAKER_03: Yeah, so booster is a very interesting product that has to do with telomeres and telomerase enzyme.
• 1:30:58
  SPEAKER_03: Telomeres come off the end cap of your DNA, they look like shoelaces, and the end of the telomere looks like the end of a shoelace.
• 1:31:04
  SPEAKER_03: It's like that hard plastic part of the shoelace, and that's your telomerase enzyme, and it's got a lot of chromosome chromosomal material and it's hidden genetic material.
• 1:31:15
  SPEAKER_03: And it also helps to stabilize the telomere.
• 1:31:18
  SPEAKER_03: It helps to maybe keep it from premature shortening, or at sometimes it can help it to kind of rebound.
• 1:31:23
  SPEAKER_03: And that's important because your telomeres, as we age, they get shorter.
• 1:31:28
  SPEAKER_03: I look kind of like they're the granddaddy control panel.
• 1:31:31
  SPEAKER_03: Um they they trump growth factors for sure.
• 1:31:34
  SPEAKER_03: But as they get shorter and shorter, um as the years go on, when they get really short and you lose your immune function, etc., you pass on.
• 1:31:43
  SPEAKER_03: So they're important.
• 1:31:46
  SPEAKER_03: Now, um, actually quite a few years ago, the Nobel Scientific Prize was awarded to three physicians for their work on telomeres and telomerase enzymes as it relates to aging and longevity.
• 1:31:57
  SPEAKER_03: And I actually started researching it before then because I came across a study um in one of the books back here in my library that where they soaked skin cells in telomerase enzyme and they never aged.
• 1:32:13
  SPEAKER_03: Now, not at that point.
• 1:32:15
  SPEAKER_03: I wish we could say we could make your cells immortal, but we're not at that point, and there's a lot of reasons why that's not a good idea anyway.
• 1:32:22
  SPEAKER_03: Um, but it got me sort of down this road, and I actually at one time when I first began working with uh the booster product, I was actually working with the actual telomerase enzyme, getting it from a research lab.
• 1:32:40
  SPEAKER_03: And it's a very large molecule, and I just felt like while I was getting a result, I felt like I could get a better result.
• 1:32:48
  SPEAKER_03: And so as time went on and I did more research, I came across cyclestraestrogenol.
• 1:32:54
  SPEAKER_03: And you know, there's a product out there that you take orally called TA65, I think it's Giron Corporation.
• 1:33:00
  SPEAKER_03: They put like$50 million of research into that, and it actually has been shown to orally have an effect on telomeres.
• 1:33:07
  SPEAKER_03: And so as I began to research that, I got the idea for something that was even more bioavailable, which is cycloestrogenol, um, topically.
• 1:33:16
  SPEAKER_03: And we have we've got that patented, and it affects, I believe it's C D three, C D4 cells, and what it has been shown to do is it can help to give a little bit of lengthening to telomeres, it helps to stabilize them.
• 1:33:37
  SPEAKER_03: Um and what I like to say is it kind of turns back the skin's aging clock.
• 1:33:43
  SPEAKER_03: It's not going to turn back to when you were 15, but it just uh makes the skin act in a younger manner.
• 1:33:52
  SPEAKER_03: Now, there's actually a study, in fact, we've got five studies that have been published in the in a peer-reviewed medical journal, the Journal of Drugs and Dermatology.
• 1:33:59
  SPEAKER_03: But this is one of the products that um the study was published, and it's a peer-reviewed medical journal, which can be very difficult to get into.
• 1:34:06
  SPEAKER_03: And as you know, you don't you can't just uh submit an article, it has to be highly scrutinized, and it has to be spells that it's that it it it is believed to be of um significance to the medical community.
• 1:34:20
  SPEAKER_03: So uh in this article, what they in turn in terms of demonstrating how this product works is every individual that was in the study had literally a 100% response, whether it was the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, whether it was elasticity, collagen, whether it was discoloration, pore size, I mean virtually every parameter.
• 1:34:44
  SPEAKER_03: And um, it's a product that's used along with our skincare management system adjunctively.
• 1:34:49
  SPEAKER_03: But it's just sort of that um, you know, next step when you're kind of at that a lot of times when people are sort of, I like to say, fish aficionados, and they're saying, well, I'm doing all of these things for my skin, and I think my skin's doing great.
• 1:35:01
  SPEAKER_03: And what can I do next?
• 1:35:02
  SPEAKER_03: What's the next thing that I can do?
• 1:35:04
  SPEAKER_03: And I I just I think this is um uh really uh a unique technology and um that has marked remarkable results.
• 1:35:16
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I love it because it's it's talking about telomeres and I, you know, um telomeres are have always been so interesting, but especially now when we're talking about skin health and longevity science, it's it's really coming up to the surface now.
• 1:35:30
  SPEAKER_02: So I'm glad that you have been, you know, on this for so long and you've it's been on your read radar because I really like that product as well.
• 1:35:37
  SPEAKER_02: I feel like I could literally every product in Canada, I could literally write an entire like you know, just summary on why I love it because everything is just so it's unique.
• 1:35:48
  SPEAKER_02: There's no redundancies, you know.
• 1:35:49
  SPEAKER_02: And I I think it's it's just a really, really unique line that you've created.
• 1:35:53
  SPEAKER_02: And, you know, I'm a huge fan of that product as well.
• 1:35:55
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, when it comes to telomeres, there's a lot of misinformation out there as well.
• 1:35:59
  SPEAKER_02: And I want to say that to all the listeners um that are tuning in because you know, you're going to hear a lot of people say just absolute garbage.
• 1:36:07
  SPEAKER_02: You know, they're gonna say things like, I had a brand come on once that was talking about how you put stem cell media on top of your skin, you're gonna fix everything.
• 1:36:16
  SPEAKER_02: You're not gonna do that.
• 1:36:17
  SPEAKER_02: It doesn't work like that.
• 1:36:18
  SPEAKER_02: You have to apply an actual, you know, product.
• 1:36:21
  SPEAKER_02: So this is a very good example of how you do this kind of science, this kind of cutting edge science properly.
• 1:36:27
  SPEAKER_02: So yeah, definitely check out that product as well, guys.
• 1:36:30
  SPEAKER_02: It's really, really good.
• 1:36:31
  SPEAKER_02: But yeah, that was all my questions and all my ingredients.
• 1:36:35
  SPEAKER_02: You're amazing.
• 1:36:37
  SPEAKER_02: You are such a literal encyclopedia of knowledge when it comes to skin health.
• 1:36:41
  SPEAKER_02: I I can't thank you enough for all of the information that you you know guide us through and and just all the knowledge, you know.
• 1:36:48
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's truly remarkable.
• 1:36:50
  SPEAKER_02: So thank you so much.
• 1:36:51
  SPEAKER_03: That's really kind of you.
• 1:36:53
  SPEAKER_03: That means a lot.
• 1:36:54
  SPEAKER_03: Thank you.
• 1:36:54
  SPEAKER_03: It's a lot of fun.
• 1:36:55
  SPEAKER_03: I love talking about it.
• 1:36:57
  SPEAKER_03: And um thank you, everyone, who's been listening because I wouldn't be here without you.
• 1:37:02
  SPEAKER_02: Also, huge congratulations for winning the New Beauty Award again.
• 1:37:05
  SPEAKER_02: I what is this, the 15th year in a row?
• 1:37:08
  SPEAKER_03: 13 years for our skincare management system is the best system sold in a uh physician's office.
• 1:37:13
  SPEAKER_03: I think that's what the how the award is awarded.
• 1:37:15
  SPEAKER_03: Um, yeah, I feel very blessed.
• 1:37:17
  SPEAKER_03: We've just year after year, um, and we've got other awards from New Beauty as well and other products, but that one every single year, it's been consistent.
• 1:37:26
  SPEAKER_02: Well, it's well deserved.
• 1:37:28
  SPEAKER_02: It's very well deserved.
• 1:37:29
  SPEAKER_02: So congratulations, and for everyone listening, you know, if I I don't say this lightly, you know, if there's one brand that I would recommend to literally anybody, I mean, a stranger that comes to me on the street and asks, how can I fix my skin?
• 1:37:42
  SPEAKER_02: I would literally say January means skincare line.
• 1:37:45
  SPEAKER_02: That's skin, period.
• 1:37:46
  SPEAKER_02: You know, that's that's the end all be all.
• 1:37:49
  SPEAKER_02: So I really urge all of you go check out the line.
• 1:37:51
  SPEAKER_02: You know, definitely do your homework, find the products that you know are going to target your skin concerns.
• 1:37:56
  SPEAKER_02: And if you have any questions or any comments or any concerns, you can always email us.
• 1:38:00
  SPEAKER_02: You can email me directly, you can email my team, and we will definitely pass your questions along to Jan's team as well and see if we can get you some answers and more insights.
• 1:38:08
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 1:38:09
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you so much, Jan.
• 1:38:11
  SPEAKER_02: You're the best.
• 1:38:11
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you.
• 1:38:12
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you so much.
• 1:38:13
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you.
• 1:38:16
  SPEAKER_02: Hey guys, so I hope you love that episode.
• 1:38:19
  SPEAKER_02: Please make sure to hit subscribe if you're tuning in to us on any podcast platform.
• 1:38:24
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• 1:38:26
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• 1:38:29
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• 1:38:33
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• 1:38:41
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• 1:38:48
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• 1:38:52
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• 1:38:56
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• 1:38:58
  SPEAKER_02: So if you're a reader and you love Medium blogs, check us out on Medium.
• 1:39:02
  SPEAKER_02: We publish some really great articles on there that do deeper dives than just what's available on the podcast.
• 1:39:07
  SPEAKER_02: And it's really a great place for all of you science geeks out there that want to learn a little bit more.
• 1:39:12
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• 1:39:18
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• 1:39:23
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you.