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2026 Skincare Trends: What to Embrace and What to Leave Behind · The Science of Skin

• 0:08
  SPEAKER_01: Hello, and welcome to the Science of Skin podcast.
• 0:11
  SPEAKER_01: My name is Dr.
• 0:11
  SPEAKER_01: Ted Lane.
• 0:12
  SPEAKER_01: I'm a board certified dermatologist, and I am here with my partner in crime, Dr.
• 0:17
  SPEAKER_01: Patty Ferris.
• 0:17
  SPEAKER_01: How are you doing, Dr.
• 0:18
  SPEAKER_01: Ferris?
• 0:19
  SPEAKER_01: I'm good, Ted.
• 0:20
  SPEAKER_01: How are you?
• 0:21
  SPEAKER_01: I'm doing wonderfully.
• 0:22
  SPEAKER_01: It is middle of January, and we decided that we would record a podcast episode about trends for 2026.
• 0:31
  SPEAKER_01: But Patty, you decided to twist that a little bit because why not?
• 0:37
  SPEAKER_01: And we want to talk about things from 2025 that you want to see kind of go by the wayside.
• 0:43
  SPEAKER_02: Exactly.
• 0:44
  SPEAKER_02: Let's put this stuff in the rearview mirror, guys.
• 0:46
  SPEAKER_02: We there are some of these trends that are coming out of social media and other places.
• 0:51
  SPEAKER_02: I think we have to start with like our most hated ingredient, which is beef tallow.
• 0:56
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know how many times we can talk about beef tallow and tell people that it's not an appropriate moisturizer to put on your skin, but that's one I want to see go away.
• 1:06
  SPEAKER_02: Even things like glass skin, you know, which is layering moisturizer on top of moisturizer so your skin looks wet.
• 1:13
  SPEAKER_02: Like I'm just not sure about the wisdom of that.
• 1:16
  SPEAKER_02: And I don't think any dermatologist would say it's necessary.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_02: And there's so many good moisturizers, like just pick a good one and go with it.
• 1:26
  SPEAKER_02: I also think these complicated regimens that have been promoted on social media are really, we got to get rid of that.
• 1:33
  SPEAKER_02: You know, people are layering too many actives, too many acids on top of each other, getting irritation.
• 1:39
  SPEAKER_02: So I would say this year, let's go out with the complicated and in with the curated.
• 1:46
  SPEAKER_02: In with the carefully selected ingredients and carefully selected products.
• 1:51
  SPEAKER_01: Wait a second.
• 1:52
  SPEAKER_01: I just need to trademark that out with the complicated, in with the curated email.
• 1:56
  SPEAKER_01: In with the curated sense, email sent to the trademark attorney.
• 2:00
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 2:03
  SPEAKER_01: I like that.
• 2:04
  SPEAKER_01: I like that.
• 2:04
  SPEAKER_02: But you know, I think one thing, I mean, everybody's so focused on AI right now, and we know AI can do a lot of this, but don't bypass the dermatologist.
• 2:16
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, don't underestimate how a good skincare consultation, I think, that's always been one of my favorite things to do, is just talk to patients about skincare.
• 2:25
  SPEAKER_02: There's so much that goes into it, your lifestyle, your sports that you play, your profession.
• 2:33
  SPEAKER_02: There's just so many things that go into what you or I might choose for a patient.
• 2:38
  SPEAKER_02: That I I know AI is going to be really good at it, and I we're seeing a lot of that.
• 2:44
  SPEAKER_02: But I also think that input and discussion with patients and consideration with pre-existing conditions, you know, all the things we talk about.
• 2:52
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 2:53
  SPEAKER_01: I it's funny that you I'm so lost as to whether now we're in the area, era of complicated regimens or we're in the era of like one or two-step regimens.
• 3:03
  SPEAKER_01: I feel like we we seesaw back and forth depending on the season, but I totally agree.
• 3:08
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 3:09
  SPEAKER_01: Are we uh can we be rid of the 19-step essences and lotions and potions and you know, triple cleansing and just keep it simple, especially in the era that we are in, where we have these amazing new ingredients in products.
• 3:26
  SPEAKER_01: You know, we used to think about products being kind of um Swiss Army knife products because they included 13 different ingredients, each of which did a different thing, and somehow they were formulated to be stable, we hoped.
• 3:40
  SPEAKER_01: And now what we're finding, especially with these regenerative ingredients, is you know, you focus on one of the hallmarks of aging, let's say autophagy or or you know, RNA snipping or slicing, or you focus on uh mTOR, for example, and you're able to really fix so many of the clinical issues that we have with photoaging, so that the Swiss Army knife is one ingredient instead of a 19 ingredient formulation, which makes it so much easier to use too.
• 4:07
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 4:08
  SPEAKER_02: So, so another one of my outwiths is out with the term anti-aging and in with the term regenerating.
• 4:15
  SPEAKER_02: And I think, you know, you just hit on it, bringing in fixing skin at a cellular level, looking at those hallmarks of aging type of ingredients that we're seeing now get so popular.
• 4:28
  SPEAKER_02: You know, the peptides, the growth factors, the exosomes, all these regenerative technologies that address skin aging at a cellular level.
• 4:37
  SPEAKER_02: And rather than trying to fix the problems, let's prevent the problems.
• 4:41
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's bringing younger consumers and younger patients into the conversation, too.
• 4:46
  SPEAKER_02: This the whole notion of preventative skin care, which is really what we're doing with these, with these uh regenerative technologies.
• 4:55
  SPEAKER_01: It's it's hard to kind of, if I were a consumer, I'd I'd really be a little confused right now because when you hear regenerative or longevity ingredients, you think, okay, so they're helping me stay the way I am and not get worse.
• 5:08
  SPEAKER_01: But what about reversing the damage that's already done?
• 5:11
  SPEAKER_01: And that does happen, guys.
• 5:13
  SPEAKER_01: So with the regenerative ingredients that we're focusing on, you know, as I mentioned, the hallmarks of aging are a lot of the targets, and we know those are reversible.
• 5:22
  SPEAKER_01: Otherwise, they wouldn't be considered a hallmark.
• 5:24
  SPEAKER_01: It to be a hallmark of aging, it has to be reversible.
• 5:27
  SPEAKER_01: And so by targeting those, we do see a reversal of some of the damage that's already been done.
• 5:32
  SPEAKER_01: So not only are you, you know, fixing damage, but you're also preventing and slowing uh the aging process.
• 5:40
  SPEAKER_01: So if we think about aging as a disease, that's kind of what we're doing.
• 5:44
  SPEAKER_01: We're treating it like that.
• 5:45
  SPEAKER_01: And certainly skincare has jumped into structure and function.
• 5:49
  SPEAKER_01: I just don't think anybody can argue about that.
• 5:51
  SPEAKER_02: No question.
• 5:52
  SPEAKER_02: I think we're really seeing like a 180 change in the paradigm about the way companies are approaching it.
• 6:00
  SPEAKER_02: Look at all the companies, Ted, that we work with and that we're, you know, close to that are coming up with these really interesting plays in the regenerative space and in the longevity space.
• 6:12
  SPEAKER_02: So skin longevity is definitely here to s to stay.
• 6:16
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, we had a conversation today with a company and it just struck me.
• 6:20
  SPEAKER_01: So interesting.
• 6:20
  SPEAKER_01: So interesting, right?
• 6:21
  SPEAKER_01: It struck me that the claims that these companies make are kind of unfortunate.
• 6:27
  SPEAKER_01: They're so limited as to the claims they're able to make as OTC skincare, but what the the actual activity of the molecules is so scientifically incredible that the claims kind of, I don't know, bludgeon the science in some way.
• 6:43
  SPEAKER_02: They pale by comparison to what it's actually doing.
• 6:46
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 6:46
  SPEAKER_02: Because they can't make those claims.
• 6:49
  SPEAKER_02: So it's it's almost like handcuffing the companies in a lot of ways.
• 6:55
  SPEAKER_02: And I understand why they walk the fine line.
• 6:58
  SPEAKER_02: They don't want to get any eyebrows raised on their product, that's for sure.
• 7:03
  SPEAKER_02: But boy, yeah, that was a super interesting.
• 7:06
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, that's another thing we're gonna see some really good innovation in this year is you know, that we were talking about sun protection.
• 7:14
  SPEAKER_02: And we're hoping that the new filter is it bimotriazinol?
• 7:20
  SPEAKER_02: I never can pronounce it.
• 7:21
  SPEAKER_01: I just call it BEMT.
• 7:22
  SPEAKER_02: BEMPET.
• 7:23
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, I like that.
• 7:23
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 7:24
  SPEAKER_02: So I can remember that.
• 7:27
  SPEAKER_02: I want to say that scientific name.
• 7:29
  SPEAKER_02: I am a doctor, for gosh sake, but I can't remember it.
• 7:34
  SPEAKER_02: So BEMPT is, I think, is going to get approval this year.
• 7:36
  SPEAKER_02: 2026 is supposed to be their year.
• 7:39
  SPEAKER_02: That's a totally different and very interesting and excellent UVA long wave filter.
• 7:46
  SPEAKER_01: I'm so excited about that.
• 7:47
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, it's gonna change a lot, especially for our patients with skin of color and hyperpigmentation, right?
• 7:54
  SPEAKER_02: Where UVA protection is super important.
• 7:58
  SPEAKER_01: Yep.
• 7:58
  SPEAKER_01: So we're gonna see advancements in in sunscreen filters, hopefully.
• 8:02
  SPEAKER_01: Um now I can stop telling my patients to travel over, you know, to different countries to buy sunscreen.
• 8:07
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, and we can stop doing it.
• 8:10
  SPEAKER_01: We can stop doing it too.
• 8:11
  SPEAKER_01: That's true.
• 8:12
  SPEAKER_01: And then uh, you know, I think we're we learned today we're gonna start learning seeing more about DNA repair and and novel novel ways to kind of promote DNA repair enzymes intrinsically, um, which is super, super.
• 8:27
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, yeah.
• 8:29
  SPEAKER_02: We've been using the same DNA repair enzymes for a long time, and they're super popular.
• 8:34
  SPEAKER_02: And I had Dr.
• 8:35
  SPEAKER_02: Daniel Yurosh on the podcast, and for those of you listening who haven't heard that podcast, it's a really good one because you know, he's really sort of considered the father or the grandfather of that whole movement DNA repair enzymes so interesting.
• 8:51
  SPEAKER_02: But now we're gonna kind of tweak it and do it in a little different way.
• 8:54
  SPEAKER_02: So it's gonna be a very interesting evolution, I think.
• 9:00
  SPEAKER_01: You know, I think 2026 will be the year of precision.
• 9:03
  SPEAKER_01: Um, we're gonna see a lot more personalized skincare coming out as small companies are already doing it.
• 9:08
  SPEAKER_01: They're just maybe need a little bit more funding to be able to market what they're doing.
• 9:12
  SPEAKER_01: But imagine taking a little piece of skin and culturing fibroblasts and then uh pushing the fibroblasts to to produce growth factors, and then you you distill and you concentrate those growth factors and put that into your your own personalized skincare cream.
• 9:29
  SPEAKER_01: So it's your own growth factors that are concentrated.
• 9:32
  SPEAKER_01: Um so there's a company doing that.
• 9:34
  SPEAKER_01: Mark Rubin has started a company for that, which I think is really interesting.
• 9:37
  SPEAKER_02: That's super interesting.
• 9:39
  SPEAKER_01: And then other companies are doing, you know, incredible things with personalized um skincare based on based on your genome and and also epigenetics.
• 9:49
  SPEAKER_02: Epigenetics, yeah.
• 9:51
  SPEAKER_01: And then there's companies that are really just again focusing so much on the hallmarks of aging.
• 9:58
  SPEAKER_01: And so you could at some point with an epigenetic clock, for example, be able to say, you know, I think I need to focus on this hallmark of aging or that hallmark of aging.
• 10:07
  SPEAKER_01: And and there are companies that will be targeting products and ingredients just for that.
• 10:12
  SPEAKER_01: So uh we're getting there, folks.
• 10:14
  SPEAKER_01: We're really getting there, where you'll have your own skin care regimen based on your own DNA signature and your epigenetic signature.
• 10:24
  SPEAKER_01: Um much like they're doing in longevity, Patty, where where you know these companies are drawing, you draw blood, you send it to the lab, and they find out what micronutrients you're deficient in, and they develop your own supplements.
• 10:37
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 10:38
  SPEAKER_01: And so, and that is a supplement just for TED.
• 10:42
  SPEAKER_01: And I get to take my own supplement, which I think is pretty cool.
• 10:45
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 10:46
  SPEAKER_02: And I think we're seeing also similar to the longevity, uh, whole body longevity, things like stacking peptides, skin peptides.
• 10:56
  SPEAKER_02: We have so many good peptides now.
• 10:58
  SPEAKER_02: So I think we're gonna see more evolution in that area.
• 11:02
  SPEAKER_02: And we know we've got new peptides like microdive peptide, which you and I have both talked about before, which is a really multifaceted peptide, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, all kinds of interesting benefits.
• 11:16
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 11:17
  SPEAKER_02: So stacking for the skin.
• 11:20
  SPEAKER_01: Stacking for the skin.
• 11:21
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 11:22
  SPEAKER_01: It seems like as we learn more and more about peptides, Patty, you're way more of an expert about this than I am, but it seems like peptides can do much more than we originally thought they could.
• 11:33
  SPEAKER_02: You're you're right about that.
• 11:34
  SPEAKER_02: And, you know, I'm working on that talk I'm giving at MCAS and looking at collagen peptides.
• 11:41
  SPEAKER_02: And, you know, in the wound healing models, those collagen peptides, those fragments of collagen, you know, make those fibroblasts start healing the wound.
• 11:52
  SPEAKER_02: They need they need to be there.
• 11:54
  SPEAKER_02: Those collagen fragments are part of the initiating event.
• 11:58
  SPEAKER_02: Because, you know, I keep delving into, you know, how do these collagen hydrolysates that we're taking as supplements really work?
• 12:05
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 12:05
  SPEAKER_02: And it it really comes down to that more than anything.
• 12:09
  SPEAKER_02: I think everybody thinks they're a little building block that you're going to be making new collagen with it.
• 12:14
  SPEAKER_02: But really, it's their benefit, is that they influence and turn on the fibroblast to start doing everything that it needs to do to heal the wound.
• 12:25
  SPEAKER_02: They seem to be the initiating event.
• 12:28
  SPEAKER_02: Proleo hydroxyprolio.
• 12:30
  SPEAKER_02: That yeah, they're pro they're peptides.
• 12:32
  SPEAKER_02: They're mostly dye and tri peptides that are that are in the wound that you know signal in the macrophages and to turn on the fibroblasts, and they just start the whole engine roar roaring.
• 12:43
  SPEAKER_02: Just so interesting.
• 12:45
  SPEAKER_01: You know, and on the medical side, we've got a small peptide coming in for psoriasis.
• 12:50
  SPEAKER_01: It's a Johnson and Johnson product.
• 12:52
  SPEAKER_01: And, you know, it's it's this is interesting because it's an ingestible peptide, right?
• 12:57
  SPEAKER_02: I'm just gonna say it's an oral, right?
• 12:59
  SPEAKER_02: It's nice.
• 12:59
  SPEAKER_01: It's an oral and the way that they formulated it and structured the peptide, it's resistant to this to the gastric enzymes and the acidic pH.
• 13:08
  SPEAKER_01: So peptides are that's a challenge.
• 13:10
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's a challenge.
• 13:11
  SPEAKER_01: Peptides are playing a huge role in dermatology and they will continue to.
• 13:15
  SPEAKER_01: So even though we'll be talking a ton about these different longevity and regenerative ingredients, which won't necessarily be peptides, but overall you're gonna see companies still focused on peptides.
• 13:26
  SPEAKER_01: And I agree.
• 13:35
  SPEAKER_01: No, it's a it's a uh it's like a a ring, apparently, and uh and because of the the shape of the peptide in a ring, it makes it very stable and resistant.
• 13:45
  SPEAKER_02: Resistant.
• 13:46
  SPEAKER_01: So it's it's not in and of itself.
• 13:48
  SPEAKER_02: So it's the chemical structure.
• 13:49
  SPEAKER_01: It's the chemical structure, yeah.
• 13:51
  SPEAKER_01: It's it's not within anything that makes it resistant to the enzymes.
• 13:54
  SPEAKER_01: It's it's the actual structure of it as itself.
• 13:58
  SPEAKER_01: So um super interesting.
• 14:00
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, that's medically medic, you know, that's my other hat, Batty, is medically we're gonna see a lot of oral therapies for psoriasis come through in 26 and 27 that are going to rival the efficacy and certainly the safety of injectables.
• 14:14
  SPEAKER_00: Good.
• 14:15
  SPEAKER_01: And so it's gonna be great for our psoriasis patients.
• 14:18
  SPEAKER_01: And then, you know, I'm gonna talk to Matt Zyris.
• 14:20
  SPEAKER_01: I think next week we're gonna record a podcast episode about what's happening in the atopic dermatitis space because we're getting new treatments that'll decrease the frequency of injections to every you know, three months, maybe every six months.
• 14:33
  SPEAKER_01: And we'll start seeing that injectable for psoriasis as well.
• 14:36
  SPEAKER_02: That's gonna be fantastic.
• 14:38
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, it's just an amazing new uh you know future for our inflammatory disease patients.
• 14:45
  SPEAKER_02: Um, that's a game changer because those biologics, you know, they're expensive, they're time consuming, and they have side effects.
• 14:52
  SPEAKER_02: And so, but they but they're great.
• 14:54
  SPEAKER_02: They've changed the life of psoriasis patients and atopics for sure.
• 14:59
  SPEAKER_02: No question.
• 15:00
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, we kind of touched on supplements, but I do think in the skincare arena, we're gonna see more companies going towards supplements.
• 15:09
  SPEAKER_02: They have to almost with this with this huge longevity push.
• 15:13
  SPEAKER_02: What's in the supplements is gonna go on the skin, and what's going on the skin is going in the supplements.
• 15:18
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, we see copper GHK, for example.
• 15:22
  SPEAKER_02: We see NAD, you know, going both ways topically and and orally and even IV.
• 15:28
  SPEAKER_02: So there's lots of crossover here.
• 15:30
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, nitric oxide boosters as well.
• 15:33
  SPEAKER_02: Nitric oxide boosters, yeah.
• 15:34
  SPEAKER_02: We saw those at the longevity conference.
• 15:37
  SPEAKER_02: So that's another whole new arena.
• 15:41
  SPEAKER_02: And another thing that I think is really interesting is a lot of companies, you know, like the menopause, perimenopause thing hit a couple years back, and you and I talked about that on this podcast.
• 15:52
  SPEAKER_02: But now they're really trying to sync skin care with the hormonal fluctuations and normal hormonal fluctuations.
• 16:01
  SPEAKER_02: So, for example, there's a company that I'm not was not familiar with till I started reading about this that gives you four different serums for each of the different phases of your basically menstrual cycle.
• 16:14
  SPEAKER_02: So you have one serum for menstrual menstrual time, one serum for the luteal phase.
• 16:20
  SPEAKER_02: So it goes, you know, the follicular phase.
• 16:23
  SPEAKER_02: Each phase you have a different serum for.
• 16:25
  SPEAKER_02: So it's it's sort of trying to sync your skin care with your cycle.
• 16:30
  SPEAKER_02: And we've seen that with the circadian rhythm products that it's another subject we're gonna cover at the summit this year.
• 16:37
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 16:38
  SPEAKER_01: You know, I think I wonder when these wearables are gonna catch up, you know, when they're gonna be able to start testing sweat or you measuring body heat and be able to tell us, okay, now it's time for you to use this product or this ingredient and really change by the day what we need to apply to our skin, and maybe even the supplement that we need to take as well.
• 17:00
  SPEAKER_01: You just get the feeling that wearables will eventually get there and really deliver on their promise.
• 17:06
  SPEAKER_01: Um, we're kind of scratching the surface of wearables and we'll we'll talk about that at the summit.
• 17:11
  SPEAKER_01: We have I know.
• 17:12
  SPEAKER_02: I'm looking forward to that.
• 17:14
  SPEAKER_02: Because I don't know anything about wearables.
• 17:17
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we're gonna find out, you know, how to use them, what what you do with the data.
• 17:22
  SPEAKER_01: Uh, and and so that'll allow us, especially for those of us interested in longevity, and have our patients kind of download their data.
• 17:29
  SPEAKER_01: We could review it and then give them an idea of what that means.
• 17:33
  SPEAKER_01: Again, personalized skincare, personalized medicine is where it's at.
• 17:37
  SPEAKER_01: And now we've got some of the data to help us with that.
• 17:40
  SPEAKER_02: And we and we've got the also to talk on uh menopausal hormone therapy.
• 17:46
  SPEAKER_02: So that'll be really interesting as it relates to skin and the different changes that we see during that time frame.
• 17:54
  SPEAKER_02: Super interesting.
• 17:56
  SPEAKER_01: You know, I think because of, I'm just thinking more broadly, because of the Secretary of Health, you know, really focusing on more natural ways to treat disease.
• 18:06
  SPEAKER_01: Um, he's really into that.
• 18:08
  SPEAKER_01: We'll probably see a push in in skincare to align with that.
• 18:12
  SPEAKER_01: And I I wouldn't be surprised if we see more botanical ingredients coming out, more certainly plant-based exosomes.
• 18:18
  SPEAKER_01: I'm sure we're gonna see that.
• 18:19
  SPEAKER_01: Oh, for sure.
• 18:20
  SPEAKER_01: Um, but otherwise, botanical ingredients to align with that push kind of nationally.
• 18:27
  SPEAKER_01: Um, and and I think a lot of patients want that as well, where they they they want the clean and sustainable and and natural ingredients.
• 18:34
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, they do.
• 18:36
  SPEAKER_02: And botanicals are so rich and so full of uh phytoactives that are biologically active in the skin.
• 18:44
  SPEAKER_02: You know, the polyphenols, for example, are just phenomenal ingredients.
• 18:49
  SPEAKER_02: They're such multitasking ingredients.
• 18:52
  SPEAKER_02: They absorb UV light, they're antioxidants, they accelate metals, they can stop glycation.
• 19:00
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, they're incredibly versatile molecules.
• 19:03
  SPEAKER_02: They do more than that.
• 19:04
  SPEAKER_02: My brain just can't remember it all.
• 19:07
  SPEAKER_02: I've got slides on that because there's so many things that they do.
• 19:11
  SPEAKER_02: It's unbelievable.
• 19:13
  SPEAKER_01: Yep.
• 19:13
  SPEAKER_01: And that's from Carl Thornfeld, right?
• 19:15
  SPEAKER_01: He sure did.
• 19:17
  SPEAKER_01: He was one of the first movers in but for using botanicals and skin.
• 19:20
  SPEAKER_02: Way back before anybody was into it, he was into it.
• 19:23
  SPEAKER_02: I remember him telling me about it.
• 19:25
  SPEAKER_02: He was so excited.
• 19:26
  SPEAKER_02: And good for him.
• 19:27
  SPEAKER_02: He was out on the forefront.
• 19:29
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 19:30
  SPEAKER_01: So, okay, we talked about everything except cleansing.
• 19:34
  SPEAKER_01: And I think you and I were just talking, Patty, and and you had heard someone talking about triple cleansing.
• 19:39
  SPEAKER_02: Oh.
• 19:39
  SPEAKER_01: And I I don't, I just don't understand that.
• 19:42
  SPEAKER_01: And and do you where did that come from?
• 19:45
  SPEAKER_02: They lost me on double cleansing, if you want to know the truth.
• 19:48
  SPEAKER_02: Like I'm lucky if I can even wash my face at night because I'm asleep half the time by the time I even think about it.
• 19:55
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I don't know where it came from, but I think most women don't wear that much a product on their face anymore.
• 20:04
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, back in the day when you have more foundations, and I mean, like a lot of that is kind of gone by the wayside.
• 20:11
  SPEAKER_02: People use lighter things that are very easy to remove with simple foaming cleansers or even non-foaming cleansers, whatever you prefer.
• 20:21
  SPEAKER_02: So I I just I really don't know where it came from.
• 20:24
  SPEAKER_02: I think a lot of it came off of social media, honestly.
• 20:28
  SPEAKER_02: Um, but yeah, you lost me at double cleansing, so forget triple cleansing.
• 20:33
  SPEAKER_00: That's an even option for me.
• 20:36
  SPEAKER_02: I don't think I would promote it.
• 20:37
  SPEAKER_02: I've always been a skinimalist.
• 20:39
  SPEAKER_02: I've never liked complicated skincare regimens.
• 20:42
  SPEAKER_02: I've never liked complicated cleansing regimens.
• 20:45
  SPEAKER_02: I think compliance is more important than anything.
• 20:47
  SPEAKER_02: And the more that you do, the less likely people are to do it.
• 20:50
  SPEAKER_02: Just like when we give people a bunch of medications.
• 20:53
  SPEAKER_02: We know they compliance goes down every time you add a new med.
• 20:58
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 20:59
  SPEAKER_01: I think 2026 may be the year where we see less and less use of retinoids, also.
• 21:05
  SPEAKER_02: Well, we've been, you and I have been talking about that, you know, yeah with each other for a while.
• 21:09
  SPEAKER_02: And I think it's because of this regenerative push.
• 21:13
  SPEAKER_02: And I think it's also because I don't think people equate, you know, irritation and those things with benefit anymore.
• 21:22
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it's like we we used to say, oh, I'm not getting peeling, I'm not red, you know, it's not working.
• 21:28
  SPEAKER_02: But now people understand that you can influence skin on a cellular level without that.
• 21:34
  SPEAKER_02: So that's whole notion, I think, has been sort of debunked.
• 21:38
  SPEAKER_01: So much focus on the retinoic acid receptors and and the retinoic, the uh the the way to turn on and off genes you using the rare, the it's it's just I I don't know that we need that pathway anymore.
• 21:54
  SPEAKER_02: Um and so it's we can make fibroblasts activate fibroblasts with a million.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: Things.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: You know, with growth factors, with certain, you know, all kinds all kinds of things.
• 22:06
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, with barrier.
• 22:07
  SPEAKER_01: Well, certainly if you have acnec skin and and you're dealing with acne, this is a wonderful it's continued to be foundational for treatments for acne.
• 22:15
  SPEAKER_01: But in terms of the aesthetic space, I'm really I think you and I have kind of decided that we just don't need them anymore.
• 22:22
  SPEAKER_01: Um I love retinoids so much.
• 22:24
  SPEAKER_02: So I don't want to hurt their feelings because I love them so much.
• 22:29
  SPEAKER_02: They got us to where we are.
• 22:31
  SPEAKER_02: And understanding those retinoid pathways was really the beginning of a lot.
• 22:36
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, and we've got new ones like HPR, hydroxypeniclone retinoid, which doesn't even go through all those retinoid pathways.
• 22:43
  SPEAKER_02: It goes right into the nucleus and binds right to the nuclear receptors.
• 22:46
  SPEAKER_02: It skips all that other stuff.
• 22:49
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 22:50
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it it it's it's and it's less irritating, you know.
• 22:56
  SPEAKER_02: So we have smart, we have smarter retinoids now.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_02: I think smart ingredients is really kind of where it's at.
• 23:02
  SPEAKER_02: Like we're talking about the peptides and think of everything that might be in an exosome.
• 23:06
  SPEAKER_02: You know, like smarter ingredients that can really just they're like, you know, homing pigeons just going right to the root cause of what's really giving the skin, making the skin unhealthy.
• 23:21
  SPEAKER_02: I think another thing that we maybe should mention is we talked a little touched on the barrier, but I still think in 2026 the whole barrier supporting the notion that the microbiome needs to be tendered and not, you know, not not messed with, so to speak, and how all of those things play, the microbiome plays such an important role in our skin barrier.
• 23:46
  SPEAKER_02: The barrier's really, the microbiome and the barrier are synonymous.
• 23:52
  SPEAKER_01: And and I think that's why we need it, the movement away from retinoids in the aesthetic space is really just going to help the barrier in the microbiome as well.
• 23:59
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 23:59
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 23:59
  SPEAKER_02: That's what made me think about it with less peeling, less of less of all of those retinoid effects.
• 24:04
  SPEAKER_01: Right.
• 24:05
  SPEAKER_02: We we can we can keep the barrier healthier.
• 24:09
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 24:09
  SPEAKER_02: And those are things you don't see with peptides and and you know, growth factors and things.
• 24:14
  SPEAKER_02: You don't see those type of side effects.
• 24:17
  SPEAKER_01: And then tying back to your supplement discussion, I think we're seeing a lot more supplements come in and talk about how they can affect the barrier as well.
• 24:23
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, yeah.
• 24:24
  SPEAKER_01: And uh much, much like the injectables, you know, in the medical space, we know that the biologists for atopic dermatitis repair the barrier.
• 24:33
  SPEAKER_01: There's data to show that.
• 24:34
  SPEAKER_02: And so it's phenomenal, isn't it?
• 24:36
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, we can repair the barrier from the inside.
• 24:39
  SPEAKER_01: Um, and we can do that with some of these um supplements.
• 24:42
  SPEAKER_01: And so we'll see, you know, for those who are having sensitive skin syndrome or cosmetic intolerance syndrome, yeah, supplements are going to start playing a bigger and bigger role.
• 24:53
  SPEAKER_01: I mean, there were early movers in the supplement space, and I think they're finally going to see their time to shine uh in 2026 as we focus on that.
• 25:03
  SPEAKER_02: Um are in looking into supplements now, so many of them, really the majors.
• 25:10
  SPEAKER_00: Yep.
• 25:11
  SPEAKER_02: Which is great.
• 25:12
  SPEAKER_02: I think one other thing we should just mention that's really become such a big trend in the skincare industry is this teenage skincare craze, the preteens and the teens.
• 25:25
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, I kind of straddle the fence on it, quite honestly, because I think, you know, rather than try to, you know, police it or stop it, I think using it as a teaching opportunity to teach kids really what is important and maybe what they shouldn't be doing.
• 25:45
  SPEAKER_02: We could use it as a launching pad to just like we teach little kids how to brush their teeth and floss, you know, if we could teach them how to use sunscreen and what moisturizers are good for kids with acne form skin or acne-prone skin.
• 26:01
  SPEAKER_02: I think we can use it as a teaching moment.
• 26:03
  SPEAKER_02: We're all familiar with the kids who get irritated by using anti-aging regimens.
• 26:07
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, all that needs to be flushed out.
• 26:10
  SPEAKER_02: But I think that's another good place for the dermatologist to interface with the acne patient in the office, talk a little bit about skin care.
• 26:17
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 26:18
  SPEAKER_02: You know, and and kind of set the guidelines, put the barriers up on what's acceptable and what's not acceptable.
• 26:26
  SPEAKER_02: So that they don't get what we're calling now the digital dermatosis, where they're getting irritated by who knows what they're putting on their face.
• 26:34
  SPEAKER_02: We've all seen that too many times.
• 26:37
  SPEAKER_02: So I think that that's a good opportunity for maybe our skin der influencers to really go out there and teach the kids who are listening.
• 26:47
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 26:48
  SPEAKER_01: You know, in the end, and I think uh every time I'm asked, you know, uh please educate on skincare, what's the best, you know, product to use, or or how would you deal with this issue in in the media or whatever?
• 27:00
  SPEAKER_01: I feel I I tend to always kind of at the end I always say, and then visit your dermatologist, because it's really difficult for for someone that that doesn't have the education in the skin to to develop the the kind of regimen that your skin needs.
• 27:15
  SPEAKER_01: Um and it changes over time as as we've been discussing for the last 30 minutes.
• 27:20
  SPEAKER_01: So um I do think that we just as dermatologists need to be prepared for our patients to come in asking these questions on skincare because it's becoming so much more important to our patients, especially in the longevity aspect of skincare.
• 27:33
  SPEAKER_01: Um so you know, I think our colleagues are just we all just need to be prepared for that and um make sure that we're meeting our patients' needs in that respect.
• 27:42
  SPEAKER_01: I know it's super easy just to focus on the acne and the eczema and the psoriasis, but when they do ask about you know skincare regimen, it means just as much to them as as curing their eczema.
• 27:54
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, and and maybe more, depending on on who it is.
• 27:58
  SPEAKER_02: I I always love to quote Ruth Tidaldi.
• 28:01
  SPEAKER_02: You got to be the genius bar of skincare.
• 28:04
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 28:04
  SPEAKER_02: And and that it's it's it's really good because it that's really who we should be.
• 28:09
  SPEAKER_02: And it's it's such an important part of what our patients want to get from us.
• 28:14
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 28:15
  SPEAKER_02: And if they don't get it from us, they'll get it from somebody else.
• 28:18
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, the digital dermatosis.
• 28:20
  SPEAKER_02: The digital, the digital, digital diagnosis causing digital dermatosis.
• 28:25
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 28:26
  SPEAKER_01: I always learned something with you.
• 28:28
  SPEAKER_01: Oh my gosh.
• 28:29
  SPEAKER_02: Well, I stalk social media because I just am totally fascinated by it.
• 28:34
  SPEAKER_01: You stalk it, I avoid it.
• 28:35
  SPEAKER_01: It's a perfect combination.
• 28:38
  SPEAKER_01: Well, folks, we did it.
• 28:39
  SPEAKER_02: We're gonna wrap it.
• 28:40
  SPEAKER_02: We are gonna wrap it.
• 28:42
  SPEAKER_01: You got through 2026 tips and trends.
• 28:45
  SPEAKER_01: We're hoping that's what we actually see.
• 28:47
  SPEAKER_01: Um I I think that we may be right in maybe 50% of the cases.
• 28:53
  SPEAKER_02: Just put the beef tallow away.
• 28:55
  SPEAKER_02: That's all we're asking.
• 28:56
  SPEAKER_02: That's all we're asking.
• 28:58
  SPEAKER_02: One simple ask.
• 28:59
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 29:00
  SPEAKER_01: All right.
• 29:00
  SPEAKER_01: Well, listen, I'm Ted Lane, uh, my partner Patty Ferris.
• 29:04
  SPEAKER_01: Uh, thank you so much for listening.
• 29:05
  SPEAKER_01: Of course, we we always appreciate our listeners.
• 29:08
  SPEAKER_01: If you like today's episode and you like the podcast in general, we really appreciate word of mouth.
• 29:13
  SPEAKER_01: So please tell your colleagues.
• 29:15
  SPEAKER_01: That's we found that the growth of the podcast really is due to the wonderful word of mouth um referrals that we're getting.
• 29:21
  SPEAKER_01: So we so appreciate that.
• 29:23
  SPEAKER_01: You can always learn more about what we're doing.
• 29:26
  SPEAKER_01: Science of skinsummit.com is our educational platform.
• 29:30
  SPEAKER_01: We are going to be doing a lot more uh podcasting this year.
• 29:34
  SPEAKER_01: You'll see us dropping episodes every year.
• 29:36
  SPEAKER_01: Every year, every week.
• 29:37
  SPEAKER_01: Every week.
• 29:38
  SPEAKER_01: Um, and we'll be doing a lot more on the medical side.
• 29:40
  SPEAKER_01: And so we're gonna be kind of covering the gamut of dermatology now with the Science of Skin podcast, and we'll be a lot more active with the webinars too.
• 29:48
  SPEAKER_01: So so stay tuned, folks.
• 29:50
  SPEAKER_01: We really appreciate you joining us.
• 29:52
  SPEAKER_01: And uh here's to a great 2026.
• 29:55
  SPEAKER_01: Happy, healthy uh to everybody.
• 29:58
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you so much.