Latest / Ridiculous History / CLASSIC: The Weird World of Meat Jell-O (A Gelatin Origin Story)
Transcript
- 0:00Speaker 1: You guys know, I think cookbooks and menus are a
- 0:04Speaker 1: form of literature. Read a lot of these ridiculous historians
- 0:09Speaker 1: Max Noll and I they called me Ben. We had
- 0:12Speaker 1: a we had a moment in January of twenty eighteen
- 0:16Speaker 1: where we got super into.
- 0:17Speaker 2: Gelatin Into is maybe a strong way of putting it.
- 0:22Speaker 2: I think jello on its own is a delightful treat.
- 0:26Speaker 2: It's locale, it's squishy, and it goes down easy if
- 0:29Speaker 2: you have a sore throat. Great for hospital days. You know,
- 0:32Speaker 2: I'm a big fan of line personally. I don't know
- 0:34Speaker 2: what you guys's favorite jello flavors are.
- 0:36Speaker 1: I can't believe we used to be friends.
- 0:38Speaker 2: Well, I'm sorry, I just I'm a little basically blue,
- 0:42Speaker 2: well blue, what is blue?
- 0:44Speaker 1: Jealous flavor? Blue? Yeah, we have a blue drink. We
- 0:48Speaker 1: have an episode on artificial flavoring coming up in the future,
- 0:53Speaker 1: in the future of ridiculous history. And gelatine itself is
- 0:58Speaker 1: an amazing technology. I mean, it's it's ancient, but it's
- 1:03Speaker 1: also I don't know, it's still so fascinating. It's so fun.
- 1:07Speaker 1: I'm a person who plays with my food. I love
- 1:09Speaker 1: that stuff.
- 1:10Speaker 2: Remember Jello jigglers guy, Yeah, itello that you'd cut out
- 1:14Speaker 2: with cookie cutters, and oh man, there was a golden
- 1:16Speaker 2: time when Bill Cosby before we knew too much about that.
- 1:20Speaker 2: Oh boy, he was the guy and he was the jigglers.
- 1:24Speaker 2: All that stuff didn't age very well now that we know. Uh.
- 1:27Speaker 2: But here's the thing. Jello in that form and it's
- 1:30Speaker 2: purest form, the little bit of food coloring and some
- 1:32Speaker 2: sweetener and you know whatever artificial flavoring a delight. Well,
- 1:36Speaker 2: you start mixing in mayonnaise and olives and pickles and
- 1:41Speaker 2: celery and shoot of slivers of meat, oh geez, or
- 1:46Speaker 2: the earlier versions of it with things called aspects, which
- 1:50Speaker 2: would be a gelatine kind of with meat chunks, you know,
- 1:54Speaker 2: sort of suspended there. It really it becomes pretty cursed.
- 1:58Speaker 2: There's an actually what I was looking for and talk
- 2:00Speaker 2: was this guy has a channel called I Spy Antiques.
- 2:03Speaker 2: He does a video where he tries to make a
- 2:06Speaker 2: jello salad that he found in his grandmother's recipe book
- 2:10Speaker 2: and he makes it in like a lamb cake mold
- 2:13Speaker 2: and it ends up being this just cursed green, weird lumpy.
- 2:18Speaker 2: It's got like green peppers in it. He takes a
- 2:21Speaker 2: bite and it's just like he he curses God.
- 2:25Speaker 1: Essentially, I never understood it, and that's what that's what
- 2:29Speaker 1: comes to the forefront in today's classic episode. If you
- 2:34Speaker 1: like us, are alive in twenty twenty four and you're
- 2:38Speaker 1: wondering why why did gelatine become such a thing. Nowadays
- 2:44Speaker 1: it's relegated to the world the desserts. But once upon
- 2:47Speaker 1: a time, folks, as we will learn together today, gelatine
- 2:52Speaker 1: was considered like a savory medium, a savory path for
- 2:58Speaker 1: a main dish. And it's just it's it's a centerpiece.
- 3:01Speaker 1: Dare we say, you know, we say, yeah, yeah, it's
- 3:04Speaker 1: a It's a cavalcade of culinary catastrophe. Anyway, here it
- 3:09Speaker 1: is ridiculous History. Is a production of iHeartRadio, America's most
- 3:38Speaker 1: famous dessert. There's always room for Jel. Hello, my name
- 3:43Speaker 1: is Ben. I know.
- 3:46Speaker 2: Yeah, that's gonna take me a minute to wrap my
- 3:48Speaker 2: head around. It's not worth it, No, it is worth it.
- 3:50Speaker 2: You you you kind of just broke my brain. But
- 3:53Speaker 2: I guess I'm Noel and I think this is ridiculous history.
- 3:55Speaker 2: And today we're talking about Gello, but not just any
- 3:58Speaker 2: gel I mean, we're gonna cover, We're gonna run the
- 3:59Speaker 2: game of all gelatinous products, but specifically today we're talking
- 4:04Speaker 2: about meat jello.
- 4:07Speaker 1: It's a real thing, and it's something that you and
- 4:10Speaker 1: I and our super producer Casey Pegrin have talked about
- 4:15Speaker 1: off air in the past, before we even started doing
- 4:18Speaker 1: this show, which is amazing when you think about it,
- 4:21Speaker 1: You and I and Casey and probably some of you
- 4:24Speaker 1: friends and neighbors have a preoccupation, a morbid fascination with gelatine.
- 4:30Speaker 2: Yeah, it's true. I mean, I have a very distinct
- 4:32Speaker 2: memory from my childhood, and it was my mother really
- 4:38Speaker 2: prided herself on doing these very elegant table settings, and
- 4:42Speaker 2: she carried on this tradition from her mother, who always
- 4:45Speaker 2: used to make a little side dish with the alarmingly
- 4:49Speaker 2: odd name of gentleman's salad. What is this gentleman's salad?
- 4:54Speaker 2: You might ask?
- 4:55Speaker 1: What is this gentleman's salad?
- 4:56Speaker 2: I thought you might ask. I'll tell you what it is.
- 4:59Speaker 2: Ben is a thing that was very in all the
- 5:02Speaker 2: rage of the highest of fashion in the fifties and sixties,
- 5:06Speaker 2: mid century and beyond, fell out of fashion a closer
- 5:10Speaker 2: to the late seventies the early eighties. But we'll get
- 5:12Speaker 2: to that. But what gentleman salad is is a molded
- 5:16Speaker 2: gelatinous I don't know if it's a dessert. It's not
- 5:20Speaker 2: really served in the place of a dessert. It's sort
- 5:22Speaker 2: of a pre meal thing like you'd eat a salad.
- 5:24Speaker 2: But it's not a leafy green No, it's a weird
- 5:27Speaker 2: little gelatinous mound of lime green stuff that's kind of
- 5:33Speaker 2: full of nuts, chopped nuts and marshmallows, I want to say,
- 5:39Speaker 2: and topped with a dollop of crim fresh or horseradish, oh,
- 5:45Speaker 2: if you want to get spicy right exactly. And it's
- 5:48Speaker 2: one of these things that as a kid, my mom
- 5:50Speaker 2: insisted that I take a bite, even though I just
- 5:52Speaker 2: it was just one of those things I just didn't trust.
- 5:54Speaker 2: My little kid brain kind of recoiled at it. It
- 5:57Speaker 2: didn't taste awful, the horseradish, but that was apparently I
- 6:02Speaker 2: was missing out on the full impact of the dish.
- 6:04Speaker 2: But this was a thing, and not just meat jella,
- 6:07Speaker 2: but jello in general. Gelatin salads was a very easy
- 6:12Speaker 2: way for home cooks to show kind of like opulence
- 6:17Speaker 2: and class and elegance.
- 6:19Speaker 1: And today, we often think of a salad as something
- 6:23Speaker 1: with leafy greens, right, with fresh herbs, fresh vegetables, a
- 6:27Speaker 1: little bit of cheese, and maybe some protein in the
- 6:29Speaker 1: form of nuts or tun or whatever. But a salad
- 6:33Speaker 1: essentially is only a mixture of different ingredients. So when
- 6:37Speaker 1: we're saying gelatine salad, we are accurately describing this strange
- 6:45Speaker 1: phenomenon of throwing everything and the kitchen sink into gelatine.
- 6:52Speaker 1: And gelatin is a very strange thing when you think
- 6:56Speaker 1: about it. We know that it's ancient, that traces of
- 7:00Speaker 1: gelatin were found in ancient Egypt, and we generally in
- 7:05Speaker 1: the West trace the use of gelatin as a food
- 7:09Speaker 1: stuff to medieval England.
- 7:12Speaker 2: That's right. I actually found a gelatin recipe from seventeen
- 7:16Speaker 2: forty seven from a London cookbook, from an author by
- 7:19Speaker 2: the name of Hannah Glass. And we'll go into a
- 7:23Speaker 2: little bit more of the modern ways of making gelatin,
- 7:26Speaker 2: but this is the old school way. I'm going to
- 7:29Speaker 2: read this verbatim because it is delightful. So first, take
- 7:33Speaker 2: out the great bones of four calves feet and put
- 7:37Speaker 2: the feet into a pot with ten quarts of water,
- 7:39Speaker 2: three ounces of horse shorn, three ounces of ling glass,
- 7:43Speaker 2: a nutmeg quartered, four blades of mace. Then boil this
- 7:47Speaker 2: till it comes to two quarts and strain it through
- 7:49Speaker 2: a flannel bag. Let it stand twenty four hours. Then
- 7:52Speaker 2: scrape all the fat from the top very clean. Then
- 7:56Speaker 2: slice it and put to it the whites of six
- 7:58Speaker 2: eggs beaten to froth. Boil it a little and strain
- 8:02Speaker 2: it again through a flannel bag. Then run the jelly
- 8:05Speaker 2: into little high glasses. You may add orange flower water
- 8:09Speaker 2: or wine, and sugar and lemon if you please. But
- 8:11Speaker 2: this is all fancy.
- 8:13Speaker 1: As you can see. We are fans of collecting recipes
- 8:16Speaker 1: from olden days, and we have found that the measurements
- 8:21Speaker 1: get kind of iffy and ad hockey. But this is
- 8:25Speaker 1: this is a real recipe. And if you have these calves,
- 8:30Speaker 1: hoofs or some orange water. Was it orange water or sugar?
- 8:34Speaker 1: It was orange flower water, orange flower water. If you
- 8:39Speaker 1: have this, please feel free to make it. Please send
- 8:41Speaker 1: us pictures. I know all three of us would love
- 8:44Speaker 1: to see it. Nowadays we use the term jello synonymously
- 8:50Speaker 1: with gelatin, but Jello is a name brand with a
- 8:54Speaker 1: history of its own. The mix up here the conflation
- 8:58Speaker 1: is similar to the way that people say google as
- 9:01Speaker 1: a verb when they're referring to any Internet So.
- 9:04Speaker 2: Like Kleenex for any kind of tissue.
- 9:07Speaker 1: Or like xerox for copiers or gelatin itself brand names
- 9:11Speaker 1: aside is a translucent, colorless and flavorless thing on its own,
- 9:18Speaker 1: and you make it using collagen from various animal parts,
- 9:23Speaker 1: as we saw in our recipe with calves hooves. It's
- 9:28Speaker 1: not just used in food. It's commonly used as a
- 9:31Speaker 1: gelling agent in food, but it's used in a bunch
- 9:34Speaker 1: of non food applications as well, photography, vitamin capsules.
- 9:40Speaker 2: Sure, and the way it's made today is obviously much
- 9:43Speaker 2: more of an industrial process. And just to kind of
- 9:45Speaker 2: give you the quick and dirty of how it's made today,
- 9:47Speaker 2: it's made using largely washed pigskins that are then cleaned.
- 9:51Speaker 2: I actually found a video online where it shows the
- 9:54Speaker 2: process in reverse from a nice little gummy bear being
- 9:58Speaker 2: popped into someone's mouth, backward to all the different steps
- 10:01Speaker 2: of the manufacturing process until it ends up with a
- 10:03Speaker 2: cute little piggy looking you in the eye. I think
- 10:06Speaker 2: it was kind of designed to make you feel bad
- 10:09Speaker 2: about eating gummies, but we're not here to tell you
- 10:11Speaker 2: what to do. We are here to tell you how
- 10:13Speaker 2: gelatin is made. So these cleaned pigskins are washed and
- 10:17Speaker 2: then they are soaked and they're given an acid treatment,
- 10:21Speaker 2: and the idea is to break down the tissues so
- 10:24Speaker 2: that the collagen is kind of made into smaller chunks
- 10:28Speaker 2: in these strands of gelatin that they call it gelatin noodles.
- 10:32Speaker 2: In the manufacturing process, they thicken when they're cooled, and
- 10:36Speaker 2: then various stages of hot water extraction is done, and
- 10:41Speaker 2: it's done up to six or seven times, with the
- 10:43Speaker 2: temperature of the water being raised for every step. And
- 10:48Speaker 2: the earliest extractions are apparently the more powerful, or I
- 10:53Speaker 2: guess they hold their shape better, and the subsequent extractions
- 10:57Speaker 2: it becomes a little bit weaker.
- 10:58Speaker 1: And one of the things that baffles us about this
- 11:02Speaker 1: process is that most people growing up don't know the
- 11:07Speaker 1: gelatine or your favorite flavor of jello does derive ultimately
- 11:12Speaker 1: from these animal proteins. I think, you know, it's not
- 11:16Speaker 1: quite on the level of Santa Claus spoiler alert everybody,
- 11:20Speaker 1: but I think a lot of kids have no understanding
- 11:23Speaker 1: of the origin of gelatin that we just walked through
- 11:27Speaker 1: and today we're asking why jello and gelatin fiend food
- 11:35Speaker 1: dishes became so prevalent for a time. It was a
- 11:39Speaker 1: fat They rose and they fell, and you can find
- 11:42Speaker 1: different cookbooks or different articles citing this rise. But we
- 11:46Speaker 1: wanted to track down the answer. And I want to
- 11:49Speaker 1: give a big shout out to Dan Myers over at
- 11:51Speaker 1: the Daily Meal. In January of last year, he tackled
- 11:56Speaker 1: this question about why there were so many gelatin based
- 11:59Speaker 1: dishes in the nineteen fifties and the nineteen sixties. And
- 12:04Speaker 1: you know, you and I have looked through these old
- 12:07Speaker 1: recipes and it's true jello today is treated mainly as
- 12:11Speaker 1: a dessert, but during that time period it would be
- 12:14Speaker 1: the entire meal. You would have the sweet and the
- 12:17Speaker 1: savory together in this mold. There's really no other way
- 12:21Speaker 1: to say it.
- 12:21Speaker 2: Yeah, and those molds themselves were staples of mid century
- 12:25Speaker 2: kitchens and all kinds of shapes. But this goes way
- 12:28Speaker 2: way farther back than the nineteen fifties and sixties, far
- 12:33Speaker 2: back really to medieval England.
- 12:36Speaker 1: And while while we're here in the medieval era in
- 12:41Speaker 1: Western Europe, we need to add a we need to
- 12:45Speaker 1: add another aspect to the story another aspect to the
- 12:48Speaker 1: story gross, I'm proud of that one. So one of
- 12:52Speaker 1: the one of the most important things about gelatine, aside
- 12:54Speaker 1: from it being a luxurious food stuff, is that it
- 12:57Speaker 1: was a pretty effective preserve. We have to remember that
- 13:01Speaker 1: this was centuries before anything like refrigeration existed totally.
- 13:07Speaker 2: And also not to mention an article from history dot
- 13:10Speaker 2: com called Jiggle It The History of Geladin's Aspects and Jellies.
- 13:14Speaker 2: The writer Nate Barksdale mentions the fact that, you know,
- 13:17Speaker 2: we've talked about this in the Protestant Reformation and Butter episode.
- 13:21Speaker 2: Catholics were not allowed to eat meat on Fridays, so
- 13:24Speaker 2: there were late medieval cooks who came up with ways
- 13:28Speaker 2: of making jelly out of fish, and that was like
- 13:31Speaker 2: they would boil fish stock, even use the swim bladders
- 13:37Speaker 2: and an eels were ways of making these meat jellies.
- 13:42Speaker 2: And there was another fish jelly product called icing glass
- 13:47Speaker 2: that was made using sturgeon. So this was a way
- 13:50Speaker 2: of being able to preserve that food and also you know,
- 13:54Speaker 2: not eat pig products.
- 13:56Speaker 1: And jellied eels, by the way, are a traditional English
- 14:00Speaker 1: dish that is still popular today. And I really want
- 14:03Speaker 1: to try it. Have you ever tried jellied eals? Just
- 14:06Speaker 1: on the off chance we didn't talk about Oh no, no, no,
- 14:09Speaker 1: you're not into.
- 14:09Speaker 2: It, not for me, thank you?
- 14:11Speaker 1: Well, well, you know, let's put a pin in it.
- 14:14Speaker 1: I don't want to pear pressure you, but you know,
- 14:17Speaker 1: what is life if not to be lived my old friend.
- 14:20Speaker 2: One more little story in Japan, even in the late
- 14:23Speaker 2: sixteen hundreds, from the same hisstory dot com article, there
- 14:26Speaker 2: was an innkeeper from Kyoto named Minoya Tarizoman who found
- 14:31Speaker 2: some congealed soup, some fish soup that had been thrown
- 14:35Speaker 2: away and discarded, and noticed that it was congealing. So
- 14:39Speaker 2: that kind of became the inspiration for seaweed jellies that
- 14:42Speaker 2: became quite popular throughout.
- 14:44Speaker 1: Asia and remain popular today. So we're doing pretty well
- 14:48Speaker 1: going chronologically here. Let's look at the first patent. The
- 14:53Speaker 1: first patent for the manufacturer of gelatin arrives in seventeen
- 14:57Speaker 1: fifty four in England and at the time kind of
- 15:01Speaker 1: a novelty, but everybody knew about it. It's just now
- 15:05Speaker 1: somebody got the rights to it and it took off,
- 15:09Speaker 1: especially with the upper crust.
- 15:12Speaker 2: Yeah, that's true, and it wasn't the patent that was
- 15:14Speaker 2: going to really win the day for gelatin based products.
- 15:17Speaker 2: That comes a little later, but we do have the
- 15:20Speaker 2: introduction of kind of someone you could consider to be
- 15:23Speaker 2: the world's first celebrity chef, a man by the name
- 15:25Speaker 2: of Marie Antoine Karame, and in an NPR piece by
- 15:30Speaker 2: Nicole Jankowski, she kind of describes how Karame really revolutionized
- 15:38Speaker 2: the use of gelatin for these opulent culinary creations. He
- 15:44Speaker 2: was actually born the sixteenth child of very very poor
- 15:48Speaker 2: parents in Paris in the late seventeen hundreds, either seventeen
- 15:52Speaker 2: eighty three or seventeen eighty four, and was abandoned by
- 15:55Speaker 2: his parents during the most violent days of the French Revolution.
- 16:00Speaker 2: Worked his way up from a kitchen boy to a
- 16:04Speaker 2: apprentice of a well known pastry chef named Sylvan Bailey,
- 16:07Speaker 2: and then found his way to having his own shop.
- 16:11Speaker 2: And that was largely because he created these insane edible
- 16:16Speaker 2: replicas of late eighteenth century buildings, some of the most
- 16:19Speaker 2: famous buildings, things like the ancient ruins of Athens or
- 16:24Speaker 2: Chinese fortresses and things like that, and they were quite
- 16:27Speaker 2: tall and were displayed in the window of his bakery
- 16:30Speaker 2: and he turned some heads, folks like Napoleon Bonaparte and
- 16:35Speaker 2: French diplomats like Charles Maurice did telerand Paragord decided to
- 16:40Speaker 2: employ him, and Paragord actually got him to make a
- 16:43Speaker 2: full menu for his own personal estate. And it was
- 16:46Speaker 2: later when his creations made it to Europe when the
- 16:51Speaker 2: Prince Regent, George the fourth asked him to come over
- 16:55Speaker 2: and prepare a menu for a party that he was having.
- 17:00Speaker 2: You see, was a huge fan of aspic, and I've
- 17:03Speaker 2: kind of been asking myself, like, what's different in aspec
- 17:05Speaker 2: and gelatin in general. It turns out aspec specifically involves
- 17:08Speaker 2: using like a meat broth, like it's called a consumme,
- 17:12Speaker 2: and it typically is savory, so it can include things
- 17:15Speaker 2: like vegetables or sliced beef or chicken or anything you
- 17:19Speaker 2: could think of. And Krame coined this term chou freu,
- 17:24Speaker 2: which was French for hot cold, and the idea was
- 17:27Speaker 2: that parts of it would be cooked and then it
- 17:29Speaker 2: would be served cold. But the whole idea was it
- 17:33Speaker 2: was a big it was a show. It was a
- 17:34Speaker 2: culinary display of that opulence that you talked about. This
- 17:38Speaker 2: is not something that anyone could have. You had to
- 17:41Speaker 2: have a whole staff to be able to prepare this thing.
- 17:43Speaker 2: I mean it was a pretty serious, almost scientific process
- 17:47Speaker 2: of straining and setting, and in a time before industrialization
- 17:51Speaker 2: and refrigeration, it was a really big deal to be
- 17:54Speaker 2: able to make this stuff. And it caught on in
- 17:57Speaker 2: New York high society as well, and even Thomas Jeffer
- 18:00Speaker 2: Senators Monticello Estate, was a huge fan of having wine
- 18:05Speaker 2: gelatin served with meals.
- 18:07Speaker 1: And that's a very interesting point there about the luxurious
- 18:11Speaker 1: nature and the luxurious origin of this food stuff, of
- 18:15Speaker 1: this application of food, because later we're going to see
- 18:18Speaker 1: this change to a matter of convenience as well as status.
- 18:28Speaker 1: We left off the story with Thomas Jefferson, Let's fast
- 18:32Speaker 1: forward to eighteen forty five when we meet a fellow
- 18:35Speaker 1: named Peter Cooper. Along with being the inventor of the
- 18:39Speaker 1: first American built steam locomotive, Pete I'm gonna call him.
- 18:43Speaker 1: Pete created a way to make gelatine more accessible to
- 18:47Speaker 1: the masses by making it a powder. This is where
- 18:51Speaker 1: we see another patent come into play. He called this
- 18:55Speaker 1: stuff portable gelatine because all you had to do was
- 18:59Speaker 1: to add hot water and Unfortunately, although it's sure caught
- 19:04Speaker 1: on later, Pete did not have much success marketing it,
- 19:09Speaker 1: and he didn't really pursue his invention. Occasionally he sold
- 19:12Speaker 1: it to cooks, but he didn't commercialize it beyond that.
- 19:18Speaker 1: He was actually more into powdered glue. Believe it or not.
- 19:20Speaker 2: Why don't you think it caught on? It seemed like
- 19:22Speaker 2: it was such a to do to make this stuff
- 19:24Speaker 2: and for someone to be able to be like, hey,
- 19:26Speaker 2: I got the quick fix right here for your gel cooking.
- 19:29Speaker 1: Right. That's a good point and it's a great question.
- 19:32Speaker 1: So let's go to Rochester, New York, a little town
- 19:36Speaker 1: outside of there, in fact, called Leroy. This is where
- 19:40Speaker 1: we meet a couple by the name of Pearl and
- 19:43Speaker 1: may wait two at the time that we find them
- 19:46Speaker 1: are running a not entirely successful cough syrup and laxative business.
- 19:51Speaker 2: It's a good combo. They should make a combination cough
- 19:54Speaker 2: syrup laxative from when you can't poop and you have
- 19:57Speaker 2: a bit of a group that they can have that
- 19:59Speaker 2: that can the tagline.
- 20:02Speaker 1: It could be like that combination Pizza Hut and taco
- 20:05Speaker 1: bell song. I think we just figured out their marketing
- 20:08Speaker 1: for them.
- 20:09Speaker 2: So what's the scoop, Ben, What did old pearl in
- 20:13Speaker 2: May come up with?
- 20:14Speaker 1: I'm so glad you asked, Noel, because fortunately for this episode,
- 20:17Speaker 1: it wasn't all mediocre laxatiff business, especially because we're a
- 20:23Speaker 1: family show. According to the Chemical Heritage Foundation, the Weight
- 20:28Speaker 1: couple was looking around for something they could do differently right,
- 20:33Speaker 1: a way to evolve their business into a more successful entity,
- 20:37Speaker 1: and they obtained that earlier patent for powdered gelatin. They
- 20:41Speaker 1: also encountered one of the big cons of gelatin at
- 20:45Speaker 1: the time, which is that it was tasteless. It was
- 20:47Speaker 1: just sort of like this translucent.
- 20:49Speaker 2: Goop or you see a con. I see a blank
- 20:52Speaker 2: slate rife for innovation, and luckily.
- 20:55Speaker 1: They did too, because they realized that they could add
- 20:58Speaker 1: syrups to this, and the gelatine, while it may not
- 21:00Speaker 1: have a flavor of its own, is an excellent platform
- 21:05Speaker 1: for other flavors. They blank slated it just as you said.
- 21:08Speaker 1: They added sugar fruit syrups like raspberry, strawberry, lemon, orange.
- 21:13Speaker 1: No word if it's orange flour, but orange that's close enough.
- 21:16Speaker 2: Orange flour is so vague. What kind of flower are
- 21:18Speaker 2: we talking?
- 21:19Speaker 1: About I guess literally any flour that is orange rosewater.
- 21:22Speaker 2: Yeah, it's interesting too, Ben, because before the Weights came
- 21:26Speaker 2: into the picture, your buddy Peter Cooper, he didn't just
- 21:29Speaker 2: patent the gelatin. He patented a gelatin dessert mix of
- 21:32Speaker 2: his own creation, which was a powdered mix with lemons, sugar, eggs,
- 21:38Speaker 2: and various spices. But he just didn't have that marketing
- 21:41Speaker 2: prow ass that was required to really sell this to
- 21:44Speaker 2: the world. And there was a zeitgeist, the element to
- 21:47Speaker 2: this stuff too, that we'll get into in just a second.
- 21:49Speaker 1: For now, you're probably wondering, folks, where did this name
- 21:53Speaker 1: jello come from? We'll tell you. So the Weight couple
- 21:57Speaker 1: had this gelatin idea right, and that they flavored it,
- 22:00Speaker 1: made it about eighty eight percent sugar, but they were overjoyed.
- 22:05Speaker 1: Nobody was worried about the sugar content at that time.
- 22:07Speaker 1: They were overjoyed because it tasted good. And may wait
- 22:11Speaker 1: named this new favorite dessert jello. It's important combining the
- 22:16Speaker 1: words gelatine and jelly, both of which derive from the
- 22:20Speaker 1: Latin meaning to congeal or to freeze.
- 22:23Speaker 2: And oh man, it's good.
- 22:24Speaker 1: There we go.
- 22:25Speaker 2: Yeah, that's mine.
- 22:26Speaker 1: I thought that was good. As for the O part,
- 22:30Speaker 1: historians attribute it to just a naming trend. It was
- 22:34Speaker 1: apparently very popular to add oh at the end of
- 22:37Speaker 1: your product name.
- 22:38Speaker 2: Whammo, there we go, bingo.
- 22:42Speaker 1: I feel like you're on a roll tally ho which
- 22:45Speaker 1: I give us that that last one is?
- 22:46Speaker 2: I was old. Yeah, do you think of anything? No,
- 22:48Speaker 2: you're right there, like Wizzo, like not only product names,
- 22:51Speaker 2: but even like company names, right.
- 22:52Speaker 1: Sure, yeah, Blinko, Rinko, et cetera probably had a futuristic vibe. Apparently,
- 22:58Speaker 1: according to the Dictionary of Trade Origins, which is a
- 23:01Speaker 1: real book, the practice began because adding oh seemed visually appealing.
- 23:07Speaker 1: In addition, you could take a common word and easily
- 23:11Speaker 1: modify it to make a trademark. An example would be graino,
- 23:15Speaker 1: real thing.
- 23:16Speaker 2: Oh, draino. That's a legacy one too. And it's cool too,
- 23:20Speaker 2: because one thing that's neat about the jello thing I
- 23:22Speaker 2: mean needs not the right word. But it's sort of
- 23:24Speaker 2: like our buddy Edward Burnees who sort of figured out
- 23:27Speaker 2: how to show the pork industry how they could sell
- 23:32Speaker 2: this disgusting byproduct we now know as bacon and make
- 23:36Speaker 2: it like the number one breakfast food in America. Gelatine
- 23:41Speaker 2: was just a way of like using these discarded scraps
- 23:45Speaker 2: and bits from the meat packing industry and turning it
- 23:48Speaker 2: into something you could then sell back to the public.
- 23:50Speaker 2: But the most important aspect of it that had been
- 23:52Speaker 2: missing up to this point was that marketing win that
- 23:56Speaker 2: Edward Burnees who is the godfather of advertising. That's sort
- 24:00Speaker 2: of spin, yeah, exactly. So Pearl and May were great
- 24:04Speaker 2: at making Jello, but they weren't super fantastic at selling it,
- 24:10Speaker 2: and they didn't have the capital to push it out
- 24:12Speaker 2: successfully in the market. And that's why on September eighth,
- 24:16Speaker 2: in eighteen ninety nine, the couple sold the formula, patent
- 24:19Speaker 2: and the name entire Jello, the entire brand of Jello
- 24:23Speaker 2: to their neighbor, a man named Frank Woodward, who at
- 24:27Speaker 2: the time was the owner of the Genesee Food Company,
- 24:29Speaker 2: and they sold it for about what was it, four
- 24:31Speaker 2: hundred and fifty dollars. Yeah, and with our handy dandy
- 24:34Speaker 2: inflation calculator, that equates to roughly eleven grand by today's standards.
- 24:40Speaker 1: So Woodward knew his business. He was already successful at
- 24:44Speaker 1: selling packaged food and he took the techniques he learned
- 24:47Speaker 1: and applied them to jello. He had his salesforce dressed
- 24:51Speaker 1: in fancy suits and go around to houses offering free samples,
- 24:56Speaker 1: right just like the bad kids do in every drug
- 24:59Speaker 1: war PSA the first one's free. And they would do
- 25:05Speaker 1: so many things to convince grocery store owners to stock
- 25:09Speaker 1: shelves with boxes of this powdered gelatine jello. And they
- 25:13Speaker 1: still had the original four flavors strawberry, raspberry, lemon, and orange.
- 25:19Speaker 1: But it didn't succeed. Still, like three people have tried
- 25:24Speaker 1: this now with you know, middling success.
- 25:27Speaker 2: And a great article on Sirius Eats by Sarah Gray
- 25:30Speaker 2: that kind of chronicles the history of the jello salad
- 25:34Speaker 2: mentions a little book by the name of the Jungle
- 25:37Speaker 2: by Upton Sinclair. It came out in nineteen oh six
- 25:40Speaker 2: that essentially single handedly helped establish the Food and Drug Act,
- 25:45Speaker 2: which created the FDA, the Food and Drug Administration that
- 25:48Speaker 2: we know today. And it became a big deal for
- 25:52Speaker 2: food to have labels and for things to be seen
- 25:55Speaker 2: as safe and pure. And Jello really jumped all over
- 25:59Speaker 2: that and started using terms like the safety bag and
- 26:03Speaker 2: the repeated the word pure, according to this article, no
- 26:06Speaker 2: less than three times, even adding it to like the
- 26:09Speaker 2: company's slogan.
- 26:10Speaker 1: Right, So let's take a closer look at Woodward here.
- 26:15Speaker 1: So he's doing his best. He's got the expertise. It
- 26:18Speaker 1: was around nineteen oh four when he and a new
- 26:22Speaker 1: employee named William Hummelbaugh had a brilliant idea. They put
- 26:28Speaker 1: ads for Jello in The Lady's Home Journal, a nationally
- 26:32Speaker 1: syndicated magazine, and they featured smiling, fashionable homemakers in spotless
- 26:40Speaker 1: white aprons, proclaiming that jello was quote America's favorite dessert,
- 26:46Speaker 1: and along with the worries of safety that were also
- 26:51Speaker 1: in the zeitgeist at the time, jello was propelled to
- 26:54Speaker 1: the mainstream. Annual sales jumped to two hundred and fifty
- 26:59Speaker 1: thousand dollars that would be around six a little over
- 27:02Speaker 1: six million today, and kids were begging for the dessert
- 27:07Speaker 1: because I'm sure, as you know, folks, if you can
- 27:10Speaker 1: convince kids to want something, the parents will usually follow
- 27:15Speaker 1: the lead. And as Noel said, the cookbooks began to
- 27:21Speaker 1: take off. World War One did affect rationing, and after
- 27:26Speaker 1: World War Two, Gelatin's success persisted, it became seen as
- 27:32Speaker 1: a creative cooking tool, and at this point, finally, after
- 27:38Speaker 1: numerous people had tried to market gelatine, it began to
- 27:44Speaker 1: take off. And it took off in the craziest way.
- 27:47Speaker 1: We found some weird examples.
- 27:49Speaker 2: Yeah, it's true. A guy named Charles Knox who had
- 27:52Speaker 2: his own I don't know. I look at it as
- 27:53Speaker 2: sort of the utilitarian cousin of Jello. It was just
- 27:57Speaker 2: the Knox Gelatin company, and just to pack it looks
- 28:00Speaker 2: very much the same today as it did then, very
- 28:02Speaker 2: little bells and whistles, no flavors. He took it to
- 28:06Speaker 2: the World's Fair in nineteen oh four and had a
- 28:09Speaker 2: competition where anyone could submit their own recipes using gelatin,
- 28:14Speaker 2: and a woman who here in this Serious Eats articles
- 28:17Speaker 2: only referred to as missus John Cook from Newcastle, Pennsylvania
- 28:22Speaker 2: one third prize in the competition with a thing that
- 28:25Speaker 2: she created called perfection salad. Not gentleman salad. Perfection salad.
- 28:30Speaker 2: And I actually found a recipe for this thing. I'm
- 28:33Speaker 2: gonna describe it to you. It is a mountain of
- 28:38Speaker 2: molded orange, kind of foggy gelatin, filled with an assortment
- 28:43Speaker 2: of shredded ruffage, and the recipe goes like this, two
- 28:48Speaker 2: envelopes unflavored gelatine, a half cup sugar, one teaspoon salt,
- 28:53Speaker 2: one can apple juice, a half cup lemon juice, two
- 28:56Speaker 2: tablespoons vinegar, one cup shredded carrot, one cup sliced celery,
- 29:00Speaker 2: one cup finally shredded cabbage, a half cup chopped green pepper,
- 29:04Speaker 2: and one can chopped pimento. And it is if absolutely
- 29:09Speaker 2: foul looking, but it caught on. People loved it. They
- 29:11Speaker 2: wanted to be part of the jello wave of the future,
- 29:15Speaker 2: and this really kind of created this demand. And another
- 29:18Speaker 2: era we're using jello showed opulence because we were entering
- 29:23Speaker 2: the time of refrigeration.
- 29:29Speaker 1: As the United States enters this industrial boom, the world
- 29:36Speaker 1: of two point five kids, a car in every garage,
- 29:39Speaker 1: and endless suburbs, people wanted to keep up with the Joneses,
- 29:45Speaker 1: and one of the best ways to do it was
- 29:47Speaker 1: to have the latest appliance. Right is similar to microwave cooking.
- 29:53Speaker 1: A little bit later in history, people wanted to have
- 29:55Speaker 1: refrigerators and if you were bringing a jello salad to
- 30:00Speaker 1: the pot luck or to the party, that I don't know,
- 30:03Speaker 1: the kid's birthday party, the barbecue. It showed that you
- 30:07Speaker 1: and your family had one of those new fangled refrigerators.
- 30:10Speaker 1: And we cannot, we cannot overestimate Missus Cook's effect on
- 30:16Speaker 1: the demand for jello.
- 30:17Speaker 2: Food.
- 30:18Speaker 1: Historian James Beard observed in his in his book American
- 30:23Speaker 1: Cookery that Missus Cook's victory at the World's Fair unleashed
- 30:28Speaker 1: a demand for congealed salads that, according to Beard, this
- 30:32Speaker 1: is in nineteen seventy two. He says, this a demand
- 30:34Speaker 1: for congealed salads that has grown alarmingly, particularly in the suburbs.
- 30:38Speaker 2: Alarmingly the invasion of the jella mold. Yeah, he went
- 30:42Speaker 2: on to as well, he did, he couched it. He
- 30:44Speaker 2: went on to say, quote, the jellied salad does have
- 30:47Speaker 2: its delights, though, and it is without question an American innovation,
- 30:52Speaker 2: no doubt about it, mister Beard here here.
- 30:54Speaker 1: So now we've set the stage. We've got knocks, we've
- 30:59Speaker 1: got jello. We've got people nowadays arguing that you can
- 31:03Speaker 1: follow American social history by looking at the history of jello.
- 31:07Speaker 2: As I know, we haven't really talked about this much,
- 31:09Speaker 2: but there was a whole kind of iconography associated with
- 31:12Speaker 2: jello packaging. Some of the early ones used illustrations by
- 31:15Speaker 2: Norman Rockwell, right. And then there was what was it
- 31:18Speaker 2: ben the jello girl, sort of like a.
- 31:20Speaker 1: Spokes thing, introduced in nineteen oh eight and instrumental, crucial
- 31:28Speaker 1: in making American consumers connect the idea of jello with
- 31:32Speaker 1: again the purity, the innocence of childhood. And although sales
- 31:39Speaker 1: of sugar and you know, therefore jello were rationed during
- 31:43Speaker 1: World War One, between the twenties and thirties, the popularity
- 31:46Speaker 1: of gelatin salads soars and there were pragmatic reasons behind this.
- 31:52Speaker 1: The depression forced homemakers to stretch ingredients as far as possible.
- 31:58Speaker 2: That also included things like sugar that you would have separately,
- 32:01Speaker 2: and many recues require you to add sugar. You didn't
- 32:04Speaker 2: have to do that when you're using jello because the
- 32:06Speaker 2: sugar was already part of the mix.
- 32:08Speaker 1: Yeah, that's that's a really good point. And so now
- 32:12Speaker 1: we see not just the idea of refrigeration that comes
- 32:15Speaker 1: into play later, but we also see the idea of status,
- 32:19Speaker 1: of proving to your friends and neighbors that you can
- 32:22Speaker 1: still do some top notch entertaining despite the rations despite
- 32:26Speaker 1: the shortages. I've got a recipe for all of relish
- 32:30Speaker 1: which I've been to save you the save you the
- 32:32Speaker 1: trouble here, folks, it seems kind of gross. Olives, pickles, celery,
- 32:35Speaker 1: and vinegar all in a lovely a lovely amalgamation with
- 32:40Speaker 1: lime jello, right right, But now we see kind of
- 32:47Speaker 1: a Bernesian if I could use that word, a Bernasian
- 32:51Speaker 1: approach to marketing here, or an aspect of it, because
- 32:55Speaker 1: we have to ask ourselves, did people genuinely like this
- 32:58Speaker 1: stuff or did they instead like being people who could
- 33:03Speaker 1: make it?
- 33:04Speaker 2: Well. It's like I said, with my mom and the
- 33:06Speaker 2: gentleman salad, her mom would have come from that original
- 33:09Speaker 2: time where this was something that was seen as a
- 33:12Speaker 2: status symbol, and she was all about these status symbols.
- 33:15Speaker 2: That's where my mom got the whole idea of having
- 33:17Speaker 2: a lovely table place setting. It was all very, very
- 33:20Speaker 2: important during times where things were much more scarce to
- 33:24Speaker 2: show that you were kind of above the fray. I
- 33:27Speaker 2: guess I mean it seems a little, I don't know,
- 33:29Speaker 2: a little shallow to me personally, but I can see
- 33:32Speaker 2: how it would have felt important to kind of keep
- 33:34Speaker 2: your spirits up and to make your family feel like
- 33:37Speaker 2: you had you know, you were one of the halves,
- 33:39Speaker 2: I guess. But of course, like things do, these kind
- 33:44Speaker 2: of Jello salad aspect meat monstrosities fell out of favor,
- 33:50Speaker 2: and Jello kind of took it was its original place
- 33:54Speaker 2: as an easy to make dessert. You had Bill Cosby
- 33:57Speaker 2: swooping in, you know, back when he wasn't persona non
- 34:01Speaker 2: grata advertising Jello jigglers. Remember Jello jigglers. Sure for kids
- 34:07Speaker 2: they used like a little cookie cutter and they were
- 34:09Speaker 2: a little They used a little bit stiffer gelatine, I think,
- 34:12Speaker 2: so you could pick them up and play with them.
- 34:14Speaker 1: They wanted a gritty reboot. You're absolutely right. By the
- 34:17Speaker 1: nineteen seventies and nineteen eighties, the golden age of Jello
- 34:21Speaker 1: had sort of passed, and that's why in nineteen eighty
- 34:23Speaker 1: six they decided to rebrand. They got Bill Cosby, phenomenally
- 34:28Speaker 1: successful comic at the time, and it was sort of
- 34:32Speaker 1: the world made new because Americans were no longer as
- 34:37Speaker 1: readily familiar with the concept of aspects. And if you
- 34:41Speaker 1: had brought a perfection salad or a couple of other
- 34:46Speaker 1: really choice gelatin dishes, that will probably read off at
- 34:50Speaker 1: the end. If you brought those to a pot luck
- 34:52Speaker 1: in the seventies or eighties, people would be like, what
- 34:54Speaker 1: are you doing? I thought we were friends. Why can't
- 34:58Speaker 1: you just tell me you don't like me?
- 35:00Speaker 2: Yeah, it's sort of like bringing someone a fruitcake for Christmas.
- 35:03Speaker 1: Oh yeah, we did do an episode in the Oldest Fruitcake.
- 35:06Speaker 1: Remember that, I do.
- 35:08Speaker 2: And it goes back to that that question you asked earlier, Ben,
- 35:10Speaker 2: did people really like the way this stuff tasted? Or
- 35:13Speaker 2: was it just like the placebo effect of kind of
- 35:15Speaker 2: associating it with status and therefore you could choke it down.
- 35:20Speaker 2: I like all kinds of stuff, Ben, I'm a relatively
- 35:22Speaker 2: adventurous eater, but literally every single one of these things
- 35:25Speaker 2: seems absolutely inedible and disgusting to me. And I don't
- 35:29Speaker 2: think I could ever convince myself otherwise, you know.
- 35:33Speaker 1: Yeah, but we also have to remember that that numerous
- 35:37Speaker 1: folks in the audience wrote back about vinegar pie, and
- 35:40Speaker 1: you were all absolutely correct. I'm kind of converted. Oh
- 35:43Speaker 1: it sounds great, but I'm not gonna tell you what
- 35:46Speaker 1: I'm not gonna try. Let's let's read off some of
- 35:47Speaker 1: these gross recipes you want to for sure. All right,
- 35:50Speaker 1: So emeralds candle lope is not that bad. You put lime,
- 35:54Speaker 1: jello and canned pineapp on the candle.
- 35:56Speaker 2: It's fun.
- 35:57Speaker 1: Yeah, it's fun.
- 35:57Speaker 2: It fills the it, it fills the gap.
- 36:00Speaker 1: Mm hm.
- 36:00Speaker 2: There's another one with a melon. You can do that
- 36:02Speaker 2: kind of You cut a half a melon and a
- 36:03Speaker 2: half and you put jello in the in the hole
- 36:05Speaker 2: and that you know, you can scoop it out, so
- 36:07Speaker 2: it's sort of like double texture for your money.
- 36:09Speaker 1: Tell you what though, salmon and cottage cheese with boiled
- 36:13Speaker 1: eggs as a garnish. Nah, no, sir, no, I I've
- 36:17Speaker 1: just thought it's a jellied lamb salad. No, it's a pass.
- 36:21Speaker 1: I know we talked about lime jelly salads, but do
- 36:25Speaker 1: we talk about lime cheese salad.
- 36:27Speaker 2: Nope?
- 36:28Speaker 1: Do you want to skip that with it? Yeah? How
- 36:31Speaker 1: do you?
- 36:32Speaker 2: Oh? You know, I do have that that I think
- 36:33Speaker 2: is a modern example of this actually working and for
- 36:36Speaker 2: me personally, there is a place here in Atlanta called
- 36:39Speaker 2: the Spotted Trotter that makes their own pataise, and a
- 36:42Speaker 2: lot of patais will have a little layer of aspect
- 36:45Speaker 2: on the top, so it's just like a small layer
- 36:48Speaker 2: of like a ginger aspect, so that it's made with
- 36:51Speaker 2: like a consume or a beef broth, but it's flavored
- 36:54Speaker 2: with ginger. And when it's almost like a jelly or
- 36:57Speaker 2: a chutney of some kind. So it's really good for
- 37:00Speaker 2: like you know, mixing with a pet or putting on
- 37:02Speaker 2: a piece of toast or something like that. It sort
- 37:04Speaker 2: of mixes the savory with the sweet. But to me,
- 37:06Speaker 2: it's when you really go full board down that you know,
- 37:10Speaker 2: savory jello thing that's just just I like it, maybe
- 37:13Speaker 2: as like a garnish or as an additive, but you know,
- 37:17Speaker 2: all on its own. Oh boy, and the photography and
- 37:20Speaker 2: some of these cookbooks, it's just like who gave the
- 37:23Speaker 2: green light to that picture?
- 37:24Speaker 1: You know. We invite you to check these out firsthand
- 37:27Speaker 1: and send us some of your favorites. And favorite here
- 37:32Speaker 1: is a tricky word. It can be the one that
- 37:34Speaker 1: you were most fascinated by or the one you have
- 37:37Speaker 1: actually tried. We of course, are not knocking anybody's personal taste.
- 37:43Speaker 2: You can send us that stuff to ridiculous at HowStuffWorks
- 37:46Speaker 2: dot com or hit us up on the social media
- 37:48Speaker 2: the Facebook, the Instagram, where we are also Ridiculous History.
- 37:51Speaker 1: As always, we'd like to thank our super producer Casey
- 37:55Speaker 1: Pegram as well as author Maria Trimarchi, who wrote Ridiculous History.
- 38:01Speaker 1: What's for Dinner Meet Jello available on howstufforks dot com.
- 38:04Speaker 2: Also thanks to our pal Alex Williams for composing our theme,
- 38:08Speaker 2: and most importantly, thanks to you guys for tuning in
- 38:11Speaker 2: and hanging out with us for another episode of Ridiculous History.
- 38:13Speaker 2: We'll see you next time. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio,
- 38:23Speaker 2: visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen
- 38:27Speaker 2: to your favorite shows