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Chicken Tikka Masala

Before it had a sauce, Chicken Tikka was cooked dry and charred in a tandoor. On its way from Delhi to curry houses in Scotland and England, it picked up a spiced tomato gravy, and more than one kitchen has a fair claim to that moment. Chicken Tikka Masala is Indian food that kept evolving as it traveled, and each place it passed through changed it.

We follow that journey from a tandoor kitchen in Delhi to a Glasgow legend involving a tin of tomato soup, and to the foreign secretary who called it a true British national dish. Then we cook the home-style version, test a long-held belief about…

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