Latest / New Worlder / Episode #93: Lisa Abend
Transcript
- 0:00SPEAKER_00: This is the New Worlder podcast, and I am one of your hosts, Nicholas Gill.
- 0:05SPEAKER_00: Co-host Juliana Duque will be joining shortly.
- 0:08SPEAKER_00: Today, we are speaking with Lisa Abend.
- 0:12SPEAKER_00: Lisa is a Copenhagen,
- 0:13SPEAKER_00: Denmark-based writer that covers food,
- 0:16SPEAKER_00: travel,
- 0:17SPEAKER_00: and all sorts of other topics for publications like Time Magazine,
- 0:21SPEAKER_00: The New York Times,
- 0:22SPEAKER_00: and Full,
- 0:23SPEAKER_00: among others.
- 0:24SPEAKER_00: She is the head of communications for the Copenhagen-based nonprofit MAD and is the
- 0:29SPEAKER_00: author of the 2011 book,
- 0:31SPEAKER_00: The Sorcerer's Apprentices,
- 0:33SPEAKER_00: A Season in the Kitchen at Ferran Adria's El Bulli,
- 0:37SPEAKER_00: where she spent a season at the restaurant documenting its team of stagiaires and
- 0:41SPEAKER_00: what else goes on behind the kitchen walls.
- 0:44SPEAKER_00: She is one of the most respected voices in the world of gastronomy,
- 0:47SPEAKER_00: and it was a real pleasure to be able to speak with her.
- 0:51SPEAKER_00: Recently,
- 0:51SPEAKER_00: Lisa launched the Substack newsletter,
- 0:53SPEAKER_00: The Unplugged Traveler,
- 0:55SPEAKER_00: where she posts about going to destinations in Europe that she has never been
- 1:00SPEAKER_00: before and,
- 1:01SPEAKER_00: totally without any research prior to the trip,
- 1:05SPEAKER_00: experiences them completely offline.
- 1:08SPEAKER_00: That means no looking at her phone or the internet for recommendations or planning of any sort.
- 1:13SPEAKER_00: For the most recent post, her brother suggested she should go to Zadar.
- 1:19SPEAKER_00: So she booked a flight there and went without even knowing what country it was in.
- 1:24SPEAKER_00: I never heard of Zadar.
- 1:26SPEAKER_00: Like, how do you pack for that?
- 1:28SPEAKER_00: It's unlike any travel writing being done anywhere else, and there isn't a better moment for it.
- 1:36SPEAKER_00: Travel has lost much of its meaning since the advent of the smartphone.
- 1:40SPEAKER_00: Everything is booked in advance.
- 1:42SPEAKER_00: We seem to know everything about a destination before we get there and we go armed
- 1:46SPEAKER_00: with lists of recommendations on where to eat and drink and what to do and see.
- 1:52SPEAKER_00: There is no room for surprise or discomfort of any sort.
- 1:56SPEAKER_00: The same stories get written repeatedly,
- 1:59SPEAKER_00: which is leading to overwhelming swells of tourists in certain cities.
- 2:03SPEAKER_00: And we are seeing a backlash to that.
- 2:05SPEAKER_00: Locals are getting upset.
- 2:07SPEAKER_00: Aside of limiting tourists from a destination, what else can you do?
- 2:13SPEAKER_00: One thing is to get back to the essence of travel and go to places where you can
- 2:17SPEAKER_00: experience something new.
- 2:19SPEAKER_00: Some place where you can have a trip unlike anyone else.
- 2:23SPEAKER_00: I didn't ask her this,
- 2:23SPEAKER_00: but I hope she turns this project into a book one day because a lot more people
- 2:28SPEAKER_00: need to read this.
- 2:29SPEAKER_00: So go to The Unplugged Traveler and check it out.
- 2:33SPEAKER_00: Lisa also lived in Spain when El Bulli was still around.
- 2:37SPEAKER_00: Then she moved to Copenhagen and got to see Noma's Rise.
- 2:41SPEAKER_00: For a little while,
- 2:42SPEAKER_00: she had another newsletter with some other Copenhagen-based writers called Bored,
- 2:46SPEAKER_00: which she told in-depth stories about the restaurant industry in that city.
- 2:51SPEAKER_00: You know, things like kitchen abuses and the situation with stagiaires.
- 2:56SPEAKER_00: Anyway,
- 2:56SPEAKER_00: she has watched as those two restaurants,
- 2:59SPEAKER_00: Noma and El Bulli,
- 3:00SPEAKER_00: one right after the other,
- 3:01SPEAKER_00: propelled by the oversized influence of the world's 50 best restaurants list,
- 3:06SPEAKER_00: have changed the conversation around fine dining and cuisine as a whole.
- 3:11SPEAKER_00: We discuss if that will happen again.
- 3:14SPEAKER_00: What will be the next big thing?
- 3:18SPEAKER_00: Maybe it isn't a fine dining restaurant.
- 3:21SPEAKER_00: Maybe it's not even a restaurant.
- 3:24SPEAKER_00: If you haven't subscribed to my newsletter,
- 3:26SPEAKER_00: just go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
- 3:31SPEAKER_00: It's free to subscribe, though paid subscribers get access to all content and archives.
- 3:36SPEAKER_00: Again, that's newworlder.com.
- 3:40SPEAKER_00: Also, look for my books, such as The Latin American Cookbook at bookstores or online.
- 3:47SPEAKER_00: There are links to them in the newsletter as well.
- 3:50SPEAKER_00: Also, we have a New Worlder YouTube channel.
- 3:54SPEAKER_00: Some full episodes are there, as well as some shorter clips from older ones.
- 3:58SPEAKER_00: Just go to youtube.com slash newworlder.
- 4:02SPEAKER_00: And please subscribe, like us, share us.
- 4:06SPEAKER_00: Every little bit seriously helps us get seen and try to make a living in this crazy medium.
- 4:15SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 4:16SPEAKER_00: Enjoy the show.
- 5:02SPEAKER_00: Hey, Lisa, how are you?
- 5:04SPEAKER_02: I'm well, thank you.
- 5:06SPEAKER_02: Hi, Lisa.
- 5:06SPEAKER_03: Hi, I'm very glad to be here.
- 5:10SPEAKER_00: So have we ever met before in person?
- 5:14SPEAKER_03: I was wondering the same thing.
- 5:16SPEAKER_03: I feel like we move in so many of the same circles that we must have, but I'm not sure.
- 5:22SPEAKER_03: Yeah,
- 5:22SPEAKER_00: like,
- 5:23SPEAKER_00: I feel like I don't think I've ever like,
- 5:26SPEAKER_00: we've had like a real conversation or anything,
- 5:28SPEAKER_00: maybe like,
- 5:29SPEAKER_00: like DMS or something.
- 5:30SPEAKER_00: But
- 5:31SPEAKER_00: I feel like once we were in some crowded place somewhere and met briefly,
- 5:38SPEAKER_00: maybe like the World Restaurant Awards in Paris.
- 5:41SPEAKER_00: Were you there?
- 5:42SPEAKER_03: I was.
- 5:43SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 5:44SPEAKER_00: Yes.
- 5:44SPEAKER_00: Maybe it was there.
- 5:46SPEAKER_03: Maybe.
- 5:47SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 5:47SPEAKER_03: What about – is Mistura a possibility?
- 5:50SPEAKER_00: Oh, yeah, maybe.
- 5:51SPEAKER_03: That was a long time ago.
- 5:53SPEAKER_00: Yeah, maybe there too.
- 5:55SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 5:56SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 5:58SPEAKER_00: Okay, so on the same note –
- 6:01SPEAKER_00: So last year I was at a restaurant in Reykjavik called Skal.
- 6:08SPEAKER_00: So I was with a friend.
- 6:10SPEAKER_00: Her name is Shruti Basapa.
- 6:11SPEAKER_00: She's a great food writer from the Reykjavik grapevine.
- 6:14SPEAKER_00: And I saw a woman on the other side of the bar that looked vaguely familiar.
- 6:18SPEAKER_00: And I didn't think anything of it.
- 6:21SPEAKER_01: No way.
- 6:22SPEAKER_00: Then like a month later, you had a story in the New York Times about hot springs in Iceland.
- 6:26SPEAKER_00: So I assume it was you.
- 6:28SPEAKER_03: It was definitely me.
- 6:30SPEAKER_00: Oh, my God.
- 6:31SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 6:31SPEAKER_03: That is so funny.
- 6:32SPEAKER_00: It was so random because I just glanced over and I was like, she looks familiar.
- 6:39SPEAKER_00: And then I just got lost in conversation and then you probably left or something.
- 6:43SPEAKER_00: And I didn't think anything of it.
- 6:45SPEAKER_00: And then I saw that and it was like, ah, that had to have been her.
- 6:50SPEAKER_03: That is so funny.
- 6:51SPEAKER_03: It definitely was.
- 6:52SPEAKER_03: I was there.
- 6:52SPEAKER_03: I mean, I was there to do the Hot Springs story, but then I haven't...
- 6:57SPEAKER_03: That was actually a smaller assignment that was tacked on to the larger one,
- 7:03SPEAKER_03: which I think is finally coming out later this month and is about knitting tourism
- 7:15SPEAKER_03: in Iceland.
- 7:16SPEAKER_00: Knitting tourism.
- 7:17SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 7:18SPEAKER_03: Yes.
- 7:19SPEAKER_00: I didn't even know this was a thing.
- 7:21SPEAKER_03: Either did I. But now we both do.
- 7:24SPEAKER_00: All right.
- 7:25SPEAKER_00: I look forward to reading that.
- 7:27SPEAKER_03: Yes, but I was seated at that bar with my friend Lindis, who is a great knitter herself.
- 7:34SPEAKER_03: And so she was sort of my inside source who was helping me as we went around
- 7:42SPEAKER_03: Iceland and learned about sheep and wool and stuff.
- 7:47SPEAKER_00: Okay, wow.
- 7:48SPEAKER_00: We could have had such a great conversation about knitting, I guess.
- 7:53SPEAKER_03: So sad.
- 7:54SPEAKER_03: Wow, missed opportunity.
- 7:55SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 7:57SPEAKER_00: All right.
- 7:58SPEAKER_00: So you just launched a new Substack newsletter.
- 8:02SPEAKER_00: It's called The Unplugged Traveler.
- 8:04SPEAKER_00: A couple of months ago, maybe?
- 8:06SPEAKER_03: It was at the very end of April.
- 8:10SPEAKER_03: Yes.
- 8:11SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 8:12SPEAKER_00: So in a few months.
- 8:14SPEAKER_00: And every month you're in a new place in Europe.
- 8:17SPEAKER_00: You have an
- 8:18SPEAKER_00: been before and you do it entirely offline you just kind of book a ticket and go
- 8:23SPEAKER_00: and figure it out and have adventures like what why do you do this yes um excellent
- 8:31SPEAKER_03: question um
- 8:34SPEAKER_03: I think it's a combination of things.
- 8:37SPEAKER_03: There's like the selfish argument, which is that freelance journalism being what it is these days.
- 8:44SPEAKER_03: I had to take a real job about a year ago.
- 8:49SPEAKER_03: And as a result of that,
- 8:51SPEAKER_03: and because there's just fewer outlets out there that are paying for travel writing,
- 8:58SPEAKER_03: I really miss doing it.
- 9:01SPEAKER_03: I realized that
- 9:03SPEAKER_03: that kind of writing where you get to go and submerge yourself in a new place or a
- 9:10SPEAKER_03: new culture is something that is really exhilarating for me.
- 9:16SPEAKER_03: And I wanted it in my life.
- 9:18SPEAKER_03: So that's the selfish reason.
- 9:20SPEAKER_03: I guess the more journalistic reason is that it's something that I had been noticing.
- 9:28SPEAKER_03: And I think a lot of people have been noticing
- 9:32SPEAKER_03: how travel has changed,
- 9:37SPEAKER_03: not just as a result of what gets called over-tourism,
- 9:44SPEAKER_03: but specifically because of the internet in general and social media in particular,
- 9:51SPEAKER_03: that all of,
- 9:53SPEAKER_03: not all,
- 9:54SPEAKER_03: but a lot of the serendipity,
- 9:58SPEAKER_03: the unexpected,
- 9:59SPEAKER_03: the sense of
- 10:01SPEAKER_03: oh my gosh,
- 10:01SPEAKER_03: anything could happen,
- 10:03SPEAKER_03: has been,
- 10:04SPEAKER_03: I think for a lot of us,
- 10:06SPEAKER_03: just at least diminished,
- 10:08SPEAKER_03: if not totally stripped away.
- 10:10SPEAKER_03: And we have a tendency now,
- 10:13SPEAKER_03: and I'm as guilty of it as anyone,
- 10:16SPEAKER_03: of doing tons of online research,
- 10:18SPEAKER_03: whether that is Googling hotels or using lists like 50 Best Restaurants or various apps,
- 10:28SPEAKER_03: or just scrolling Instagram,
- 10:30SPEAKER_03: And coming up with a sort of list of places that,
- 10:36SPEAKER_03: not just places,
- 10:37SPEAKER_03: like actual experiences or dishes or views that we have to have or somehow it won't
- 10:44SPEAKER_03: feel like we've been there or we've had the best experience that we've had,
- 10:50SPEAKER_03: that's possible.
- 10:51SPEAKER_03: And I think that...
- 10:53SPEAKER_03: That has, it has sort of, yeah, taken a lot of the magic out of travel.
- 11:01SPEAKER_03: And at the same time,
- 11:02SPEAKER_03: it's guaranteed that a lot of times when you go to a foreign place or a new place,
- 11:09SPEAKER_03: you...
- 11:10SPEAKER_03: end up seeing the same kinds of people and doing the same kinds of things that you
- 11:16SPEAKER_03: would have done at home.
- 11:18SPEAKER_03: It's had a flattening of effect.
- 11:20SPEAKER_03: And so all of this was my attempt to see what would happen if I tried to just
- 11:27SPEAKER_03: switch off and see if I got some of the adventure back.
- 11:32SPEAKER_00: I love it because like I used to travel this way,
- 11:35SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 11:35SPEAKER_00: like when I was in my early twenties and,
- 11:38SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 11:39SPEAKER_00: I spent years just kind of traveling around with a backpack and I would just,
- 11:43SPEAKER_00: and there was no really,
- 11:45SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 11:45SPEAKER_00: there were internet cafes and things,
- 11:47SPEAKER_00: but there wasn't like all the information in the world in the palm of your hands.
- 11:52SPEAKER_00: And,
- 11:53SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 11:54SPEAKER_00: I would just go on a whim with like very little information to some river town in
- 11:58SPEAKER_00: the Amazon and wait for a boat that might,
- 12:01SPEAKER_00: or might not ever come and things would just happen, you know?
- 12:05SPEAKER_00: And even if it was this disaster of sitting around and waiting and,
- 12:10SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 12:10SPEAKER_00: getting eaten alive by insects or something,
- 12:13SPEAKER_00: it was still wonderful and enriched my life in ways that I don't think anything
- 12:19SPEAKER_00: else ever could.
- 12:20SPEAKER_00: And I can't do it quite like that anymore because,
- 12:25SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 12:25SPEAKER_00: I have a wife and kids,
- 12:26SPEAKER_00: but I still tried to,
- 12:29SPEAKER_00: get off the map and go somewhere where there's no, you know, listicle for as much as I can.
- 12:36SPEAKER_00: But like,
- 12:38SPEAKER_00: as you say,
- 12:38SPEAKER_00: travel writing,
- 12:39SPEAKER_00: at least what you see in the glossy magazines,
- 12:41SPEAKER_00: I think has become fairly predictable.
- 12:45SPEAKER_00: You know, it's all those lists.
- 12:47SPEAKER_00: And then when it is a feature, it's usually a story about a new resort or, you know, the same kind of,
- 12:55SPEAKER_00: Boilerplate, Story of the Chef.
- 12:58SPEAKER_03: Ten hot fourth-generation coffee shops you must visit in London, yes.
- 13:04SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 13:06SPEAKER_00: But even when it's something immersive,
- 13:08SPEAKER_00: it's still booked online and you have an exact list of all the details discussed in
- 13:14SPEAKER_00: advance of exactly what you're getting.
- 13:16SPEAKER_00: So there's this kind of like element of surprise and –
- 13:20SPEAKER_00: being uncomfortable and getting lost.
- 13:21SPEAKER_00: And I don't know, it's just like, it's so hard to find.
- 13:26SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 13:27SPEAKER_03: And, you know, I think you're right.
- 13:30SPEAKER_03: The element of being uncomfortable is like not having that possibility
- 13:38SPEAKER_03: I think actually has the effect of making the really exciting times a little less so.
- 13:47SPEAKER_03: I think it's very rare
- 13:51SPEAKER_03: that you'll find anything negative happening in any travel writing that makes it
- 13:58SPEAKER_03: into newspapers or those glossy magazines these days.
- 14:03SPEAKER_03: But without that possibility, the really crappy hotel or the bad meal or getting lost,
- 14:11SPEAKER_03: The the experience itself I think becomes a little flatter and you know it's I used
- 14:18SPEAKER_03: to travel that way too and it's been interesting to me to like how hard,
- 14:24SPEAKER_03: sometimes it is to remember that and to imagine that often when I tell people about.
- 14:31SPEAKER_03: about this project, the response I get is either astonishment, how could you possibly do that?
- 14:39SPEAKER_03: Or like outright fear, aren't you scared?
- 14:43SPEAKER_03: Aren't you scared something bad is gonna happen?
- 14:46SPEAKER_03: And I think allowing for a little discomfort makes the travel a little more exciting.
- 14:52SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 14:53SPEAKER_02: but Lisa,
- 14:53SPEAKER_02: there is also this,
- 14:54SPEAKER_02: and I think it's very valuable what you,
- 14:58SPEAKER_02: because in your subsect,
- 14:59SPEAKER_02: you explain what it's all,
- 15:02SPEAKER_02: this is all about,
- 15:03SPEAKER_02: right?
- 15:03SPEAKER_02: Like why to do this and, you know, what, what it's allowed and what it's not, right?
- 15:10SPEAKER_02: What are your own rules to unplug?
- 15:13SPEAKER_02: And I think is, I mean, obviously at the core, there is this like worry of traveling and
- 15:21SPEAKER_02: being flattened by everyone telling us what to do, right?
- 15:25SPEAKER_02: Like the best of the best.
- 15:28SPEAKER_02: But I was thinking, even if you don't know, even if you have to be prepared to disappointment, right?
- 15:35SPEAKER_02: Because this is part of, or it was part of traveling in the past.
- 15:39SPEAKER_02: I think something that people tend to disconnect from when connecting so much to
- 15:46SPEAKER_02: social media and advice is their own criteria,
- 15:50SPEAKER_02: right?
- 15:50SPEAKER_02: You still have your criteria when you are already there without all these tools and
- 15:58SPEAKER_02: you have to decide by yourself,
- 15:59SPEAKER_02: right?
- 16:00SPEAKER_02: You can still look at the menu.
- 16:02SPEAKER_02: You can still decide to go.
- 16:04SPEAKER_02: I mean, your instinct, your body, your...
- 16:07SPEAKER_02: And I think it's like by disconnected from all this information, you realize, oh, there is this, right?
- 16:16SPEAKER_02: My own criteria, right?
- 16:19SPEAKER_03: Yes, absolutely.
- 16:21SPEAKER_03: It's criteria and it's also skills.
- 16:24SPEAKER_03: I mean...
- 16:25SPEAKER_03: You know, I've discovered that my sense of direction has definitely atrophied.
- 16:34SPEAKER_03: And,
- 16:35SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 16:35SPEAKER_03: and sometimes like,
- 16:37SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 16:37SPEAKER_03: looking at a paper map and figuring out and not having that blue dot that moves
- 16:41SPEAKER_03: when I do,
- 16:43SPEAKER_03: it can be hard to figure out where you are.
- 16:46SPEAKER_03: Or,
- 16:47SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 16:47SPEAKER_03: to trust your instincts when you see or when you're standing on the street outside
- 16:54SPEAKER_03: of a restaurant or a hotel and trying to decide whether to go in.
- 16:59SPEAKER_03: I think that those were skills that back when people were traveling without the
- 17:05SPEAKER_03: Internet that were a little more sharply honed than they are now.
- 17:11SPEAKER_00: So the latest story in The Unplugged Traveler, it's from a place called Zadar.
- 17:18SPEAKER_00: I never, ever heard of the place.
- 17:22SPEAKER_00: How did you end up there?
- 17:24SPEAKER_03: I had never heard of the place.
- 17:26SPEAKER_03: I ended up there because when I created the newsletter...
- 17:33SPEAKER_03: I created a, there are two paid subscription options.
- 17:37SPEAKER_03: One is the normal one.
- 17:38SPEAKER_03: And then Substack lets you create this higher price category that it calls founding member.
- 17:45SPEAKER_03: But I decided to call patron of the unplugged and with it,
- 17:49SPEAKER_03: I would create a sort of perk that if you wanted to give this higher amount of
- 17:55SPEAKER_03: money to support the newsletter or to support me,
- 18:00SPEAKER_03: that you would get the opportunity to choose a destination for me.
- 18:08SPEAKER_03: And a few people took me up on the category, but only one person, my brother, decided where to send me.
- 18:20SPEAKER_03: And he chose that place.
- 18:22SPEAKER_03: And to be honest, I do not know how he chose it.
- 18:25SPEAKER_03: I suspect it's because he had never heard of it either.
- 18:29SPEAKER_03: And so it was a very strange experience because...
- 18:37SPEAKER_03: The one thing that I allow myself to do online is to book the ticket there because
- 18:43SPEAKER_03: there is just no project in the world that is going to make me put up with being
- 18:49SPEAKER_03: online with an airline call center.
- 18:51SPEAKER_03: So I do allow myself to do that part online.
- 18:56SPEAKER_03: And I was astonished to discover when I went to book...
- 18:59SPEAKER_03: this ticket,
- 19:00SPEAKER_03: expecting that I was going to have to make all kinds of connections,
- 19:04SPEAKER_03: that there were actually direct flights from Copenhagen,
- 19:07SPEAKER_03: which in turn only made me feel worse about myself for not ever having heard of
- 19:11SPEAKER_03: this place.
- 19:15SPEAKER_03: But it turns out, for those of you who don't know, that it's in Croatia.
- 19:20SPEAKER_03: And I did not learn that until I arrived.
- 19:26SPEAKER_03: And so I had no idea how to
- 19:28SPEAKER_03: I was trying to cover all of my bases.
- 19:32SPEAKER_03: And even once I arrived, it was pretty clear that it was on the coast.
- 19:40SPEAKER_03: But even so, getting into the city involved going through a couple of pretty scary looking landscapes.
- 19:48SPEAKER_03: So I really wasn't sure what I was getting myself into.
- 19:52SPEAKER_00: So you had no information.
- 19:55SPEAKER_00: Like, you didn't even know it was in Croatia?
- 19:57SPEAKER_00: Like, that's how, how can you even?
- 20:00SPEAKER_03: I know.
- 20:01SPEAKER_03: You just show up at the airport and it just says Sedar on it.
- 20:04SPEAKER_03: It doesn't say anything else.
- 20:06SPEAKER_00: I guess so, yeah.
- 20:07SPEAKER_00: I mean, it wasn't like Croatian Airlines or something.
- 20:10SPEAKER_03: No, it was not Croatian Airlines.
- 20:12SPEAKER_03: It was, I think it was, I'm sorry to say, I think it was Ryanair.
- 20:17SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 20:18SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 20:19SPEAKER_00: Well, that makes sense.
- 20:20SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 20:23SPEAKER_00: All right.
- 20:24SPEAKER_00: So you get there and like, what do you do?
- 20:26SPEAKER_00: You get off the plane and you're like, so where's the center of town?
- 20:31SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 20:31SPEAKER_03: You know, usually there are usually two things in life.
- 20:39SPEAKER_03: airports that are really great and turns out really great, useful.
- 20:44SPEAKER_03: One is a tourist office or some kind of information desk.
- 20:47SPEAKER_03: And one is some kind of transportation into the center.
- 20:51SPEAKER_03: Zadar actually did not have that tourist information desk, but it did have a bus to the center.
- 20:58SPEAKER_03: And I just got on it and figured I'd get off when it seemed like I was in the right place.
- 21:08SPEAKER_03: And it did, it led to, the bus led to what was the old part of town.
- 21:15SPEAKER_03: Zadar itself has the old part of the old city is on a peninsula.
- 21:22SPEAKER_03: that is sort of surrounded by a bit of harbor where the more modern part is developed.
- 21:28SPEAKER_03: And so it was very distinctive.
- 21:29SPEAKER_03: It was clear that I had arrived.
- 21:32SPEAKER_03: So I got off,
- 21:33SPEAKER_03: walked into the first hotel I found and booked a room and then just started
- 21:39SPEAKER_03: exploring from there.
- 21:44SPEAKER_00: Did you enjoy Zadar?
- 21:45SPEAKER_00: I did.
- 21:46SPEAKER_00: It was, I mean...
- 21:52SPEAKER_03: I got to be honest.
- 21:55SPEAKER_03: It didn't blow me away.
- 21:56SPEAKER_03: And what I write about in the piece is that at least for,
- 22:04SPEAKER_03: I don't know,
- 22:05SPEAKER_03: the first 24 hours at least,
- 22:09SPEAKER_03: I kept trying to figure out why are all these people here?
- 22:13SPEAKER_03: Because it was all tourists.
- 22:15SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 22:17SPEAKER_03: And it was nice, but it wasn't that nice.
- 22:21SPEAKER_03: It wasn't like, oh my gosh, this is so beautiful.
- 22:25SPEAKER_03: It wasn't Venice.
- 22:26SPEAKER_03: It wasn't,
- 22:28SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 22:28SPEAKER_03: it wasn't some beautifully,
- 22:32SPEAKER_03: I kept thinking of,
- 22:33SPEAKER_03: I don't know if you've ever been to Santiana del Mar,
- 22:36SPEAKER_03: which is this tiny town in Northern Spain that is perfectly preserved and
- 22:42SPEAKER_03: absolutely gorgeous.
- 22:45SPEAKER_03: it's nothing like that.
- 22:46SPEAKER_03: It's, it's, it's, it's got some, I mean, it turns out it's really old.
- 22:50SPEAKER_03: It's been a city for 4,000 years and it definitely has some of those, those monuments still.
- 22:57SPEAKER_03: And it is on the sea.
- 22:59SPEAKER_03: So that's nice, but it's not like,
- 23:04SPEAKER_03: breathtaking or any of like those kinds of travel writery adjectives I would not apply to.
- 23:11SPEAKER_03: So I was just kind of mystified and trying to figure out what it was that had drawn
- 23:18SPEAKER_03: all of those people there.
- 23:21SPEAKER_03: And I eventually realized that it wasn't Zadar itself,
- 23:27SPEAKER_03: but what Zadar gave you access to,
- 23:29SPEAKER_03: which was a lot of islands with,
- 23:33SPEAKER_03: some pretty breathtaking beaches on them.
- 23:36SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 23:37SPEAKER_00: Okay.
- 23:38SPEAKER_00: Took a while though.
- 23:40SPEAKER_03: You'd be surprised how long it can take when you don't have, when you don't have Google to look it up.
- 23:45SPEAKER_03: Okay.
- 23:50SPEAKER_00: So in like, they're not all, all these destinations, they're not all totally off the radar.
- 23:56SPEAKER_00: Like,
- 23:56SPEAKER_00: like you,
- 23:57SPEAKER_00: for,
- 23:57SPEAKER_00: like,
- 23:57SPEAKER_00: for instance,
- 23:58SPEAKER_00: you went to Bologna,
- 23:59SPEAKER_00: which,
- 24:00SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 24:00SPEAKER_00: everyone knows where,
- 24:02SPEAKER_00: knows Bologna,
- 24:03SPEAKER_00: at least the name,
- 24:05SPEAKER_00: but you had never been and you didn't know much about it.
- 24:08SPEAKER_00: Is that correct?
- 24:10SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 24:10SPEAKER_03: I mean, my criteria are basically, um,
- 24:17SPEAKER_03: Is this a place,
- 24:18SPEAKER_03: A,
- 24:18SPEAKER_03: that I've – it needs to be a place I've never been to,
- 24:22SPEAKER_03: but it also needs to be a place that I don't know about.
- 24:27SPEAKER_03: And so like my cutoff line is would I know where to go eat?
- 24:32SPEAKER_03: And I have done a lot of food writing in my time.
- 24:35SPEAKER_03: And so I do know that about some places that I've never been.
- 24:40SPEAKER_03: Like I was really –
- 24:42SPEAKER_03: I wanted to go to Bergen in Norway because I've heard it's beautiful.
- 24:47SPEAKER_03: I've never been.
- 24:48SPEAKER_03: I know it has like a whole cool student scene.
- 24:52SPEAKER_03: But in the end,
- 24:53SPEAKER_03: I had to rule it out because I know of at least two restaurants there that are kind
- 25:00SPEAKER_03: of like on the international circuit.
- 25:04SPEAKER_03: So it wouldn't be the same experience.
- 25:05SPEAKER_03: Yeah.
- 25:08SPEAKER_00: But you wrote about when you got to Bologna,
- 25:12SPEAKER_00: you still,
- 25:13SPEAKER_00: you kind of had to face this fear of like FOMOing that you're going to miss something.
- 25:20SPEAKER_03: Exactly.
- 25:22SPEAKER_00: It's such a part of our lives that you come so prepared of,
- 25:27SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 25:28SPEAKER_00: this list of restaurants and you can't miss places,
- 25:31SPEAKER_00: especially in a place like Bologna.
- 25:33SPEAKER_00: Like Bologna, I don't know much about it either.
- 25:38SPEAKER_00: But you just assume there's something great there.
- 25:40SPEAKER_00: It's a big Italian city with lots of history.
- 25:47SPEAKER_00: So there's certainly good food somewhere.
- 25:50SPEAKER_00: Yes.
- 25:51SPEAKER_03: And I mean, I did know that Bologna was considered like one of the great food cities in Italy.
- 25:58SPEAKER_03: It's, it's, I mean, it's where Bolognese comes from.
- 26:02SPEAKER_03: It's where lasagna comes from.
- 26:04SPEAKER_03: It, you know, it's the head of the region that produces Parmigiano and Prosciutto and Balsamico.
- 26:13SPEAKER_03: And so I,
- 26:15SPEAKER_03: I knew that it had this long and rich culinary history.
- 26:22SPEAKER_03: And that was actually one of the things that drew me to it because I wanted to try
- 26:28SPEAKER_03: and engage with this question.
- 26:30SPEAKER_03: And exactly, Julia, as you said, like to see if I could sort of divest myself of
- 26:40SPEAKER_03: of that,
- 26:43SPEAKER_03: not just of the list that I knew was out there,
- 26:50SPEAKER_03: but also of the criteria that I generally carry around about how a place needs to
- 26:57SPEAKER_03: look or how it,
- 26:58SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 26:59SPEAKER_03: what kinds of dishes need to be on the menu and just try and experience it.
- 27:05SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 27:06SPEAKER_02: And I was wondering, it's such a powerful question.
- 27:11SPEAKER_02: I don't know, just new way of doing it.
- 27:14SPEAKER_02: And I guess writing for you because,
- 27:16SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 27:16SPEAKER_02: apart from traveling,
- 27:18SPEAKER_02: I think we underestimate how much we have lost surprise,
- 27:25SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 27:26SPEAKER_02: the feeling of surprise because of all this information,
- 27:30SPEAKER_02: which is,
- 27:30SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 27:31SPEAKER_02: overwhelming,
- 27:32SPEAKER_02: apart from the anxiety of,
- 27:34SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 27:34SPEAKER_02: this fear of missing out.
- 27:35SPEAKER_02: And I was wondering if...
- 27:37SPEAKER_02: So far,
- 27:38SPEAKER_02: although it has been,
- 27:39SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 27:40SPEAKER_02: three or four months,
- 27:42SPEAKER_02: if you have noticed that your audience experience this journey through your writing
- 27:50SPEAKER_02: in a different way,
- 27:51SPEAKER_02: if you can sense a different reaction or something that has caught your attention
- 27:59SPEAKER_02: just because you are doing things differently.
- 28:04SPEAKER_03: In myself,
- 28:05SPEAKER_03: I definitely have noticed that I make more of an effort in my daily life to leave
- 28:17SPEAKER_03: my phone in my pocket.
- 28:19SPEAKER_03: And I noticed that.
- 28:21SPEAKER_03: It's great.
- 28:23SPEAKER_03: It is.
- 28:23SPEAKER_03: I mean, and it's hard.
- 28:25SPEAKER_03: Let's be honest.
- 28:26SPEAKER_03: It's hard.
- 28:28SPEAKER_03: And I'm not like some kind of.
- 28:31SPEAKER_03: Luddite guru on this.
- 28:33SPEAKER_03: But another reason why I wanted to try this is I think we've all had that
- 28:41SPEAKER_03: experience of being on a train or on the subway somewhere and looking around and
- 28:46SPEAKER_03: realizing that every single person in the car with you is looking at their phone
- 28:53SPEAKER_03: and that we're just completely disconnected from each other.
- 28:57SPEAKER_03: And I wanted...
- 28:59SPEAKER_03: I wanted to see what would happen if I tried to resist that.
- 29:05SPEAKER_03: And it's hard to resist, but I do find it getting easier.
- 29:10SPEAKER_03: And I find myself enjoying being the only person in the subway car who's actually
- 29:16SPEAKER_03: looking around at people and just thinking about them and observing it rather than
- 29:20SPEAKER_03: staring at my screen.
- 29:22SPEAKER_03: But for other people, I have had a few people already say that they were inspired to try this too.
- 29:30SPEAKER_03: And often in very limited ways.
- 29:33SPEAKER_03: I haven't heard of anyone else getting on a plane to a place that they've never heard of yet.
- 29:38SPEAKER_03: But I'm sure it's only a matter of time.
- 29:40SPEAKER_03: But I have...
- 29:42SPEAKER_03: I have heard from a few people who've said,
- 29:44SPEAKER_03: I was traveling and for one afternoon,
- 29:47SPEAKER_03: I just like decided just to wander around and see what happened.
- 29:52SPEAKER_03: Or I just randomly chose a restaurant instead of coming all prepared with it.
- 29:59SPEAKER_03: And that's kind of exciting to me.
- 30:01SPEAKER_02: That is great.
- 30:03SPEAKER_02: Great.
- 30:03SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 30:04SPEAKER_02: So such a treasure already.
- 30:06SPEAKER_02: You know, if a few people, even for an afternoon, they are trying that.
- 30:10SPEAKER_02: That's a lot.
- 30:12SPEAKER_03: Would you guys try it now?
- 30:14SPEAKER_03: I mean... Oh, yeah.
- 30:15SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 30:16SPEAKER_00: You try to sometimes.
- 30:17SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 30:18SPEAKER_00: I mean... Yeah.
- 30:20SPEAKER_00: I mean, like, I'm so addicted to my phone.
- 30:23SPEAKER_00: Like, I admit it.
- 30:24SPEAKER_00: Like, I...
- 30:26SPEAKER_00: And I don't even realize, you know, it's like, that's how addicted I am.
- 30:29SPEAKER_00: It's like, I, I like, I'll just be, you know, just sitting down outside or something.
- 30:37SPEAKER_00: And then just suddenly like,
- 30:38SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 30:39SPEAKER_00: the notification or a buzz or some kind of,
- 30:41SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 30:42SPEAKER_00: twinkly light comes from the phone and you just,
- 30:45SPEAKER_00: it just ends up in your hand.
- 30:47SPEAKER_00: And suddenly you're there for 45 minutes scrolling endlessly over the
- 30:52SPEAKER_00: nothing but yeah like i i treasure moments when i have no internet access like when
- 31:00SPEAKER_00: i'm in a remote place or when i'm on a plane and i never buy wi-fi in a plane so
- 31:07SPEAKER_00: like those are the most peaceful moments but yeah like traveling without a phone
- 31:15SPEAKER_00: yeah i would that would be lovely
- 31:22SPEAKER_02: Yeah,
- 31:23SPEAKER_02: because it's not only,
- 31:24SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 31:26SPEAKER_02: I have to say,
- 31:27SPEAKER_02: I mean,
- 31:28SPEAKER_02: it's not that I don't check my phone all the time,
- 31:30SPEAKER_02: but I think social media wise,
- 31:35SPEAKER_02: I'm not into that too much.
- 31:36SPEAKER_02: So that part doesn't worry me.
- 31:38SPEAKER_02: It's just more like, let's say WhatsApp.
- 31:41SPEAKER_02: half of my work or more is through WhatsApp so that disconnection will already be a
- 31:47SPEAKER_02: lot but I was wondering in terms of and I can't remember from your explanation if
- 31:52SPEAKER_02: you use uh physical maps or you just ask people for example I I do both um I do use
- 32:03SPEAKER_03: physical maps um
- 32:06SPEAKER_03: tourist offices will give those out for free.
- 32:08SPEAKER_03: It's actually amazing.
- 32:11SPEAKER_03: And so I do use that,
- 32:14SPEAKER_03: but I also ask people in part because as I said,
- 32:18SPEAKER_03: my,
- 32:19SPEAKER_03: my map reading skills aren't what they used to be.
- 32:23SPEAKER_03: And that also is, it's nice just to have those small moments of connection with people where you're,
- 32:33SPEAKER_03: Yeah, you're asking directions or you come across something and you're looking for greater information.
- 32:42SPEAKER_03: And, you know, nine times out of 10, people are delighted that you're interested.
- 32:48SPEAKER_03: I was the next issue.
- 32:50SPEAKER_03: Well, the next destination will be about Glasgow.
- 32:57SPEAKER_03: And I was just there over the weekend.
- 32:59SPEAKER_03: And I had these experiences where it was just like following this chain of
- 33:07SPEAKER_03: connections where one thing led to another.
- 33:10SPEAKER_03: But I had,
- 33:11SPEAKER_03: I had been out walking because I was trying to find a hotel and I was in a park
- 33:19SPEAKER_03: trying to get to the other side of trying to get to the other side.
- 33:22SPEAKER_03: And it turned out that I thought it was pretty early in the morning.
- 33:26SPEAKER_03: It was a Sunday morning.
- 33:28SPEAKER_03: excuse me, no, it was a Saturday morning and I heard bagpipes and I was in Scotland.
- 33:34SPEAKER_03: So it didn't seem, you know, totally out of character there.
- 33:41SPEAKER_03: But as I got closer, I realized it was a lot of bagpipes and they weren't actually all playing in unison.
- 33:49SPEAKER_03: And it turns out that there was some kind of
- 33:54SPEAKER_03: bagpipe world championship taking place that week.
- 34:00SPEAKER_03: And this park was where everyone was allowed to come to practice.
- 34:05SPEAKER_03: So there were all of these bands there.
- 34:07SPEAKER_03: But I couldn't really figure out by myself.
- 34:11SPEAKER_03: I wasn't sure.
- 34:12SPEAKER_03: I didn't know any of this.
- 34:13SPEAKER_03: And I was just like, why are all these random people standing around not playing together?
- 34:17SPEAKER_03: And there was just a woman seated on a bench.
- 34:20SPEAKER_03: And I went up and asked her what was going on.
- 34:24SPEAKER_03: And Kelly is her name.
- 34:26SPEAKER_03: She's from Florida.
- 34:28SPEAKER_03: She was there because her son plays in a pipe band and was there rehearsing.
- 34:35SPEAKER_03: And, you know, we probably had wasn't a massive conversation.
- 34:39SPEAKER_03: It was probably about 10 or 15 minutes.
- 34:42SPEAKER_03: And she gave me all the history about that.
- 34:45SPEAKER_03: her son and about type bands and about the competition.
- 34:50SPEAKER_03: And it was just this like nice moment of connection and about learning about this
- 34:56SPEAKER_03: whole other culture that I wouldn't have known about otherwise.
- 35:00SPEAKER_03: And that kind of thing happens all the time since I've been doing this newsletter.
- 35:05SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 35:08SPEAKER_00: You just open yourself up to those kinds of experiences when you're not
- 35:13SPEAKER_00: I don't know, so programmed on what you're doing.
- 35:15SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 35:18SPEAKER_00: I think we've just become so focused on checking off all those things you want to
- 35:24SPEAKER_00: do in every single place you visit that you totally just miss those beautiful
- 35:31SPEAKER_00: little things that you could never plan.
- 35:34SPEAKER_00: Exactly.
- 35:35SPEAKER_00: They would never be in a guidebook or on a website that these people would be there at that moment.
- 35:42SPEAKER_03: Exactly.
- 35:45SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
- 35:45SPEAKER_02: And Lisa,
- 35:46SPEAKER_02: your writing has this balance,
- 35:48SPEAKER_02: which is so hard to find between telling your experience of a place and a situation
- 35:56SPEAKER_02: and then opening up a journey for people to figure out their own path.
- 36:02SPEAKER_02: way right and that's that's great no it's it's really i mean it's wonderful and i i
- 36:09SPEAKER_02: wonder i mean the way i see it is just like this way of doing things uh makes this
- 36:15SPEAKER_02: just more insightful both ways right your own experience and then a whole you know
- 36:22SPEAKER_02: a lot of options for people to just get excited about it i don't know if you have
- 36:29SPEAKER_02: fine if you have found
- 36:34SPEAKER_02: a different scenario when you are going to write or you feel inclined to write more
- 36:41SPEAKER_02: about certain things just because I'm sure you are feeling a lot more and you know
- 36:47SPEAKER_03: just yeah it's it's an interesting question because I do find myself I mean even if
- 36:59SPEAKER_03: I'm only in a place for
- 37:02SPEAKER_03: a weekend,
- 37:04SPEAKER_03: I do find myself having so many experiences,
- 37:07SPEAKER_03: many of which are,
- 37:09SPEAKER_03: I think,
- 37:11SPEAKER_03: are worth writing about or might be interesting to other people.
- 37:14SPEAKER_03: And, you know, and not, not having an editor on the one hand is really nice.
- 37:20SPEAKER_03: It's fun, but you know, editors serve a purpose.
- 37:22SPEAKER_03: They help you.
- 37:26SPEAKER_03: So I do find myself, I do find myself like,
- 37:32SPEAKER_03: conscious of not just,
- 37:36SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 37:36SPEAKER_03: I don't want it to be first I went here and then I did this and then I did that.
- 37:40SPEAKER_03: Like I want to be telling a story.
- 37:43SPEAKER_03: And I've discovered as I go along that a lot of what I'm writing about is this sort
- 37:48SPEAKER_03: of circling around this question of what is tourism today and what is it doing to us?
- 37:56SPEAKER_03: Europe and what is it doing to us.
- 38:01SPEAKER_03: I just had a very interesting experience because I was assigned a story to write
- 38:07SPEAKER_03: about over tourism in Barcelona.
- 38:11SPEAKER_03: And that story hasn't come out yet, but I was just there to do the reporting for that.
- 38:17SPEAKER_03: And that was much more of a kind of traditional reported piece with formal interviews and all of that.
- 38:27SPEAKER_03: But then I realized that some of the same questions that I was asking other people
- 38:34SPEAKER_03: when I did that are what I'm asking myself as I go to a place like Zadar and wonder
- 38:41SPEAKER_03: why all of those people are there and at what point did a city like Zadar decide
- 38:51SPEAKER_03: that it was going to
- 38:55SPEAKER_03: take its most beautiful historic part and basically surrender it so that the people
- 39:03SPEAKER_03: who live there no longer have any reason to use that part of the city.
- 39:08SPEAKER_03: It's been abandoned completely to tourism.
- 39:11SPEAKER_03: And I think you see that all over the world.
- 39:13SPEAKER_03: I see it here in Copenhagen with some neighborhoods that are entirely given over to tourism now.
- 39:20SPEAKER_03: And I just find myself fascinated by that phenomenon
- 39:25SPEAKER_03: And so I think what I'm trying to do with this newsletter is write about that in a
- 39:30SPEAKER_03: more accessible and maybe meandering way,
- 39:39SPEAKER_03: even though I'm also sort of addressing it more formally,
- 39:43SPEAKER_03: I guess,
- 39:44SPEAKER_03: in some of my journalism.
- 39:47SPEAKER_00: But I think you're also offering an alternative to... Hopefully.
- 39:52SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 39:53SPEAKER_00: To everyone just going to the same places all the time.
- 39:56SPEAKER_00: And, you know, I think especially in Europe, like, there's so many tourists.
- 40:03SPEAKER_00: Like, it's amazing in the summer.
- 40:06SPEAKER_00: Like, I mean, you see it in Latin America and in the U.S.
- 40:08SPEAKER_00: too, but it's... I don't think it's as widespread.
- 40:13SPEAKER_03: No, I don't think so either.
- 40:15SPEAKER_03: I mean...
- 40:16SPEAKER_03: you know, the numbers of visitors to different places in Europe are just, it's extraordinary.
- 40:26SPEAKER_03: And when you see cities trying,
- 40:29SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 40:30SPEAKER_03: coming to grips with the impact in every possible way,
- 40:38SPEAKER_03: whether it is,
- 40:39SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 40:39SPEAKER_03: the environmental impact,
- 40:41SPEAKER_03: the economic impact,
- 40:42SPEAKER_03: or just like the impact on their own
- 40:45SPEAKER_03: on their own lives and what they can and can't do anymore.
- 40:49SPEAKER_03: It's, you know, it's, it's massive.
- 40:52SPEAKER_03: And,
- 40:52SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 40:53SPEAKER_03: Barcelona,
- 40:53SPEAKER_03: I watched,
- 40:57SPEAKER_03: the weekend I was there,
- 40:57SPEAKER_03: on the Sunday I was there,
- 40:59SPEAKER_03: it wasn't even the whole weekend,
- 41:00SPEAKER_03: on the Sunday I was there,
- 41:03SPEAKER_03: five cruise ships,
- 41:05SPEAKER_03: pulled into port.
- 41:08SPEAKER_03: All of them were only there for the day.
- 41:12SPEAKER_03: So between the hours of 8 and 9 a.m., together they dumped about 25,000 people into the city.
- 41:20SPEAKER_03: And that is happening almost every day.
- 41:25SPEAKER_03: In a city of 1.6 million, it's getting 13 million tourists this year.
- 41:29SPEAKER_03: And so there are just parts of the city,
- 41:33SPEAKER_03: including what was once one of the great markets in the world,
- 41:38SPEAKER_03: the boqueria,
- 41:39SPEAKER_03: that just nobody local goes to anymore.
- 41:45SPEAKER_03: Is that the world that we want?
- 41:46SPEAKER_03: I don't think so.
- 41:47SPEAKER_03: I don't know.
- 41:47SPEAKER_03: I'd like to think that there are solutions to that.
- 41:53SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 41:56SPEAKER_03: Sorry.
- 41:57SPEAKER_03: I didn't mean to depress you.
- 41:58SPEAKER_03: It's super depressing.
- 42:02SPEAKER_00: It is, but I mean, it's, it's like, how do we, what do we do?
- 42:06SPEAKER_00: Like, I mean, does it just like, does it just become so terrible?
- 42:12SPEAKER_00: You know,
- 42:13SPEAKER_00: so many people that everybody stops coming or is there like some kind of middle way
- 42:22SPEAKER_00: to improve the situation?
- 42:25SPEAKER_00: Like how can you stop
- 42:27SPEAKER_00: So many people, like cruise ships, you could, you know, close the ports, I guess.
- 42:32SPEAKER_03: You could limit the number of licenses you give.
- 42:34SPEAKER_03: I mean, I talked to an official in Barcelona who kept saying you can't stop
- 42:43SPEAKER_03: You can't stop tourism.
- 42:45SPEAKER_03: You can only control it.
- 42:47SPEAKER_03: And so I think from a city's point of view or from a government's point of view,
- 42:54SPEAKER_03: definitely more regulation.
- 42:56SPEAKER_03: And you are seeing that take place in different points throughout Europe.
- 43:02SPEAKER_03: But then there's the individual's point of view,
- 43:04SPEAKER_03: which I guess is like in this teeny tiny little way I'm trying to address with the newsletter,
- 43:11SPEAKER_03: which is...
- 43:12SPEAKER_03: you know, try something different.
- 43:14SPEAKER_03: Maybe don't go where everybody else goes.
- 43:15SPEAKER_02: Yeah, exactly.
- 43:16SPEAKER_02: I was going to say, maybe it's not only, I mean, maybe travel less just because of, you know, how,
- 43:24SPEAKER_02: climate change and that, right?
- 43:27SPEAKER_02: And there is that question like, okay, why I'm traveling this time?
- 43:30SPEAKER_02: And then maybe that reflection is helpful too.
- 43:32SPEAKER_02: But I think if more people do things like the one you're doing,
- 43:38SPEAKER_02: diversity comes naturally and that creates balance because the problem is like
- 43:44SPEAKER_02: everyone doing the same thing just because,
- 43:47SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 43:48SPEAKER_02: social media creates these like...
- 43:51SPEAKER_02: monopoly of success of some places dishes everything right so exactly so yeah i
- 44:00SPEAKER_02: mean the different strategies control maybe always double check between traveling
- 44:07SPEAKER_02: if it's you know like camp
- 44:09SPEAKER_02: do I have to travel or,
- 44:10SPEAKER_02: you know,
- 44:11SPEAKER_02: is this like,
- 44:11SPEAKER_02: or do I put together different trips in the same package,
- 44:15SPEAKER_02: whatever it is.
- 44:16SPEAKER_02: And then these like diversification, right.
- 44:20SPEAKER_02: Of, okay, what if I don't go to Barcelona as everyone else?
- 44:25SPEAKER_02: Exactly.
- 44:26SPEAKER_03: Exactly.
- 44:26SPEAKER_00: So Lisa, this, this is your actually second Substack newsletter.
- 44:33SPEAKER_00: Yes.
- 44:33SPEAKER_00: I just keep coming, you know.
- 44:38SPEAKER_00: So the first one is called Bored.
- 44:41SPEAKER_00: And it was written with another writer.
- 44:44SPEAKER_00: It's not going anymore, right?
- 44:45SPEAKER_03: Or is it officially over?
- 44:50SPEAKER_03: I have fantasies of bringing it back.
- 44:52SPEAKER_03: Okay.
- 44:54SPEAKER_03: Two other food writer friends and I,
- 44:59SPEAKER_03: they are both Danish,
- 45:02SPEAKER_03: started Bored during the pandemic and the focus was on Copenhagen's
- 45:10SPEAKER_03: restaurant scene, kind of behind-the-scenes stories about that.
- 45:15SPEAKER_03: It was not, I should say, it was not a list of where to go eat in Copenhagen.
- 45:19SPEAKER_03: That's very important to establish.
- 45:23SPEAKER_03: And it certainly wasn't reviews,
- 45:25SPEAKER_03: but it was trying to ask some questions about how the city had become the
- 45:30SPEAKER_03: destination for dining that it had and how it was changing.
- 45:37SPEAKER_03: And it was...
- 45:39SPEAKER_03: it was really satisfying in a completely different way from this one,
- 45:43SPEAKER_03: which is that it really,
- 45:46SPEAKER_03: it felt like we were going deep into what is a pretty wonderful community and sort
- 45:55SPEAKER_03: of strengthening some of those,
- 45:57SPEAKER_03: those connections.
- 45:59SPEAKER_03: I think it, you know, honestly, I think it's probably what any, um,
- 46:05SPEAKER_03: beat reporter feels,
- 46:07SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 46:07SPEAKER_03: if you work on a local newspaper somewhere and maybe you're just covering PTA
- 46:13SPEAKER_03: meetings or something like that,
- 46:15SPEAKER_03: or a city hall,
- 46:16SPEAKER_03: but you get to really know your,
- 46:20SPEAKER_03: both your audience and your subject and bored felt like that.
- 46:24SPEAKER_03: It was, it was unfortunately at that point, I was only freelancing and I,
- 46:34SPEAKER_03: I found we got into a situation that was a little kind of in between.
- 46:40SPEAKER_03: First of all, one of the writers, his real job, he's a reporter for one of the Danish newspapers,
- 46:51SPEAKER_03: It got too complicated for him.
- 46:55SPEAKER_03: And I think the newsletter itself,
- 46:58SPEAKER_03: it was a paid newsletter and it was more successful than I expected,
- 47:04SPEAKER_03: but it wasn't successful enough to allow me to cut back on the stories I was doing
- 47:12SPEAKER_03: that did pay.
- 47:14SPEAKER_03: And so I just found myself caught in between having this semi-successful thing that
- 47:22SPEAKER_03: wasn't quite enough to allow me to give up some other work.
- 47:26SPEAKER_03: And so I was having a hard time finding the time to do it.
- 47:31SPEAKER_03: But, you know, when I sell that film script or something, I don't know.
- 47:38SPEAKER_03: I'd love to bring it back.
- 47:42SPEAKER_00: I've been trying to figure it out for 20 years.
- 47:44SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
- 47:45SPEAKER_03: But yours has been super successful.
- 47:47SPEAKER_00: Well, I mean, it depends on how you define success.
- 47:54SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 47:55SPEAKER_00: I think I found some success just by keeping with it,
- 47:59SPEAKER_00: but I still haven't found that comfortable living as a writer as much as I would
- 48:06SPEAKER_00: like to.
- 48:08SPEAKER_00: But I don't know,
- 48:09SPEAKER_00: I feel like there is,
- 48:10SPEAKER_00: I think things like Substack are becoming a viable alternative to legacy media,
- 48:18SPEAKER_00: but I don't think it happens overnight for most people.
- 48:23SPEAKER_00: So there's still that balance of trying to do as much as you can for it and grow it
- 48:31SPEAKER_00: while still keeping your sanity.
- 48:35SPEAKER_03: Yes, exactly.
- 48:37SPEAKER_03: But it seems like,
- 48:38SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 48:38SPEAKER_03: I mean,
- 48:39SPEAKER_03: it seems like for you as well,
- 48:43SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 48:43SPEAKER_03: it's a place to tell these stories you care about,
- 48:45SPEAKER_03: no?
- 48:45SPEAKER_00: No, I mean, that was kind of my whole reason for, you know, starting the newsletter.
- 48:53SPEAKER_00: But like,
- 48:53SPEAKER_00: it's been in so many forms over the last like 10 years,
- 48:56SPEAKER_00: but it was just,
- 48:57SPEAKER_00: I didn't really have a place to...
- 49:00SPEAKER_00: tell stories about food in Latin America.
- 49:03SPEAKER_00: That wasn't just like some bucket list thing or some just making everything sound
- 49:08SPEAKER_00: exotic all the time,
- 49:10SPEAKER_00: you know?
- 49:11SPEAKER_00: And it's like,
- 49:12SPEAKER_00: you can,
- 49:12SPEAKER_00: you can do that a couple of times,
- 49:15SPEAKER_00: but then it gets boring and you want,
- 49:18SPEAKER_00: you want to move into those stories where that have some depth and you know,
- 49:25SPEAKER_00: it's,
- 49:25SPEAKER_00: it's hard to do that on your own though.
- 49:27SPEAKER_00: I found out.
- 49:29SPEAKER_00: But I don't know.
- 49:31SPEAKER_00: I do my best, I guess, is what I say.
- 49:36SPEAKER_03: I think you do an amazing job, and I understand.
- 49:40SPEAKER_03: It's always a work in progress, but for me, you're definitely a model to follow.
- 49:46SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
- 49:46SPEAKER_00: I appreciate that.
- 49:48SPEAKER_00: I wanted to talk to you a bit about...
- 49:52SPEAKER_00: So you wrote this story for Fool in 2018, the food circus.
- 49:57SPEAKER_00: And I want to talk to you about it because I think you've been covering this kind
- 50:01SPEAKER_00: of fetishization of celebrity chefs and 50 best from the beginning,
- 50:07SPEAKER_00: right?
- 50:07SPEAKER_00: Like this...
- 50:09SPEAKER_00: this world of restaurants with all this hype and influence and you like,
- 50:12SPEAKER_00: you were in Spain when El Bulli was still around and you wrote,
- 50:17SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 50:18SPEAKER_00: the,
- 50:18SPEAKER_00: the Sorcerer's Apprentice,
- 50:20SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 50:20SPEAKER_00: you spent a season at El Bulli and talking to the stagiaires there and everyone in
- 50:24SPEAKER_00: the kitchen and kind of seeing that.
- 50:28SPEAKER_00: And in, you know, then you moved to Copenhagen, you're in Noma.
- 50:32SPEAKER_00: Like what's going to happen when Noma closes?
- 50:36SPEAKER_00: Like where is this kind of,
- 50:39SPEAKER_00: bubble of hype and yeah it's going to like what's going to happen i always feel
- 50:46SPEAKER_03: like this is um i get asked that question a lot normally it's framed as what's the
- 50:53SPEAKER_03: next big thing um and i think that one of
- 51:03SPEAKER_03: The perhaps false expectations that have been generated,
- 51:09SPEAKER_03: not just by things like 50 Best,
- 51:13SPEAKER_03: but also by this weird glitch in history has been that
- 51:20SPEAKER_03: we think that there always will be a next best, the next big thing.
- 51:25SPEAKER_03: And there is no reason why that is actually the case.
- 51:29SPEAKER_03: I mean, 50 best part, like this was a mutually reinforcing, these were mutually reinforcing phenomena.
- 51:38SPEAKER_03: But the fact that a restaurant like Abouye and a chef like Farhan Adria, who succeeded in
- 51:50SPEAKER_03: kind of overturning everything that,
- 51:53SPEAKER_03: or at least interrogating everything that restaurants had been up until that point
- 51:58SPEAKER_03: and became influential on a level that had never,
- 52:04SPEAKER_03: ever been reached before by a chef.
- 52:07SPEAKER_03: The fact that he was followed
- 52:10SPEAKER_03: immediately by and overlapped with a chef like Rene Redzepi,
- 52:16SPEAKER_03: who did the same thing and helped create this whole new approach to food.
- 52:21SPEAKER_03: And that this
- 52:24SPEAKER_03: this like chronology happened simultaneously with an institution that could rank
- 52:32SPEAKER_03: them and say,
- 52:33SPEAKER_03: Oh,
- 52:34SPEAKER_03: here's a number one.
- 52:35SPEAKER_03: And now he's being followed by this other number one.
- 52:39SPEAKER_03: I think it just generated this sense that that,
- 52:43SPEAKER_03: that there would always be this baton being passed off,
- 52:46SPEAKER_03: but that there's no reason why that might happen.
- 52:50SPEAKER_03: And when I,
- 52:52SPEAKER_03: like the hype machine is still there and people,
- 52:57SPEAKER_03: restaurants are still paying tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars a year to
- 53:03SPEAKER_03: hire a publicist who will promise,
- 53:07SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 53:07SPEAKER_03: making promises to get them on the world's 50 best list.
- 53:11SPEAKER_03: All of that is still happening.
- 53:12SPEAKER_03: But I haven't seen that next, you know, that person coming along who's changing everything.
- 53:19SPEAKER_03: And I,
- 53:20SPEAKER_03: Maybe that will never happen again in our lifetime.
- 53:24SPEAKER_00: So what has surprised me is,
- 53:28SPEAKER_00: like,
- 53:28SPEAKER_00: from that story that,
- 53:29SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 53:29SPEAKER_00: it was,
- 53:30SPEAKER_00: what,
- 53:31SPEAKER_00: 2018 when that was written in full?
- 53:34SPEAKER_00: It didn't really deter anyone.
- 53:37SPEAKER_00: from believing in the list.
- 53:39SPEAKER_00: Like if anything,
- 53:40SPEAKER_00: I think it just let restaurants outside this little bubble understand more how to,
- 53:45SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 53:45SPEAKER_00: get on and move up the list.
- 53:47SPEAKER_00: Maybe.
- 53:47SPEAKER_00: And now,
- 53:48SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 53:49SPEAKER_00: six years later,
- 53:49SPEAKER_00: there are probably 10 times as many restaurants like clawing their way,
- 53:54SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 53:55SPEAKER_00: at this.
- 53:56SPEAKER_00: But yeah, I think you're right.
- 53:58SPEAKER_00: It's just, there's, there isn't like that next big thing.
- 54:04SPEAKER_00: I mean,
- 54:06SPEAKER_00: or at least how we see the next big thing as,
- 54:10SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 54:11SPEAKER_00: this,
- 54:11SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 54:12SPEAKER_00: chef in restaurant,
- 54:16SPEAKER_00: you know,
- 54:17SPEAKER_00: launching something.
- 54:18SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 54:19SPEAKER_03: Well, you know, it's kind of like, like, I know that it is, it is not very fashionable to refer to
- 54:28SPEAKER_03: two chefs as geniuses,
- 54:31SPEAKER_03: I know,
- 54:31SPEAKER_03: and I know possibly as well as anyone out there,
- 54:36SPEAKER_03: how much what a restaurant does depends on an entire team,
- 54:41SPEAKER_03: not just the figure at the top of the hierarchy.
- 54:46SPEAKER_03: But
- 54:48SPEAKER_03: I will say that both Adria and Redzepi had an extraordinary amount and have an
- 54:56SPEAKER_03: extraordinary amount of talent and vision.
- 55:00SPEAKER_03: And in my mind, it's sort of like, okay, what if Rembrandt had...
- 55:08SPEAKER_03: been alive at the same time as Picasso.
- 55:11SPEAKER_03: And like one of, and there was a list there to say, which was, who was the greatest artist in the world.
- 55:16SPEAKER_03: It really was,
- 55:18SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 55:19SPEAKER_03: this,
- 55:22SPEAKER_03: those kinds of,
- 55:24SPEAKER_03: the fact that they were recognized by this whole machine or circus doesn't change
- 55:31SPEAKER_03: the fact that they did have extraordinary talent.
- 55:34SPEAKER_03: talent and we're all lucky that we got to experience it when it happened but the
- 55:40SPEAKER_03: expectation that somebody else would come along with that same degree you know of
- 55:46SPEAKER_03: talent and vision within that very short time frame I personally I haven't seen
- 55:54SPEAKER_03: somebody who is having that kind of revolutionary impact right now in the food
- 55:59SPEAKER_00: world yeah yeah now I mean it's
- 56:05SPEAKER_00: I think there are those people, but it's just not within that bubble.
- 56:11SPEAKER_00: You know what I mean?
- 56:12SPEAKER_00: Like,
- 56:13SPEAKER_00: like maybe it's not going to be a fine dining restaurant that leads the next
- 56:18SPEAKER_00: movement or something like that.
- 56:21SPEAKER_00: And maybe it's not in Europe.
- 56:23SPEAKER_00: Maybe it's, you know, like I think maybe it's probably not.
- 56:28SPEAKER_00: And I think maybe that's where it goes.
- 56:32SPEAKER_00: I don't know.
- 56:33SPEAKER_03: Yeah,
- 56:33SPEAKER_03: but to your point about nobody listening to what I was saying,
- 56:41SPEAKER_03: I think 50 Best,
- 56:44SPEAKER_03: there's something about it that consciously or not,
- 56:54SPEAKER_03: they were super,
- 56:55SPEAKER_03: super smart about,
- 56:56SPEAKER_03: which they understand implicitly,
- 56:59SPEAKER_03: which is everybody likes recognition.
- 57:03SPEAKER_03: And, you know, of course, these institutions have changed.
- 57:09SPEAKER_03: I think you can make a very strong argument that the list doesn't even...
- 57:16SPEAKER_03: even by its own terms, the list doesn't mean what it once did.
- 57:19SPEAKER_03: Now that you are immediately kicked off after,
- 57:23SPEAKER_03: after you reach number one,
- 57:25SPEAKER_03: but you could say this,
- 57:26SPEAKER_03: you know,
- 57:26SPEAKER_03: you can say the same thing about the Michelin guide,
- 57:29SPEAKER_03: the list that Michelin guide three stars doesn't mean the same thing.
- 57:33SPEAKER_03: Now, when you know that if you're Denver, Colorado, you can buy your own guide, for example.
- 57:40SPEAKER_03: Um,
- 57:40SPEAKER_00: Or at least parts of Denver.
- 57:42SPEAKER_03: Right.
- 57:47SPEAKER_03: But none of that changes how people feel when they make the top 10 or when they get those three stars.
- 57:54SPEAKER_03: And that is just human nature.
- 57:58SPEAKER_03: And that's not going to change.
- 57:59SPEAKER_03: And as long as there are
- 58:01SPEAKER_03: organizations and institutions out there that can express that and that like let's
- 58:06SPEAKER_03: be honest like that keep multiplying because it's not just those two there's other
- 58:10SPEAKER_03: ones as well um oh yeah restaurants are gonna keep playing ball no yeah
- 58:18SPEAKER_00: We could probably talk about this all day, I'm sure.
- 58:21SPEAKER_00: I know you have to go.
- 58:23SPEAKER_03: Thank you.
- 58:24SPEAKER_00: No, thank you for speaking to us, Lisa.
- 58:27SPEAKER_00: It was a real pleasure.
- 58:28SPEAKER_00: Everyone should subscribe to the Unplugged Traveler.
- 58:31SPEAKER_03: Thank you so much.
- 58:33SPEAKER_00: Yeah, Lisa, thanks so much.
- 58:37SPEAKER_03: It was a real pleasure talking with you.
- 58:39SPEAKER_02: Yeah, you know, I wanted to say that...
- 58:44SPEAKER_02: I mean, one thing is understanding why a system works as it does, right?
- 58:48SPEAKER_02: And you have been very helpful, you know, explaining people why.
- 58:52SPEAKER_02: But then the other part is for people to find motivations to do things differently.
- 58:58SPEAKER_02: And I think that's when, you know, all these discussions you were having.
- 59:03SPEAKER_02: And we can hope for, I don't know, just different people maybe having different visions, right?
- 59:10SPEAKER_02: maybe more balanced, more communal, more something else.
- 59:13SPEAKER_02: Right.
- 59:14SPEAKER_02: So, yeah.
- 59:15SPEAKER_02: And the,
- 59:16SPEAKER_03: and you know,
- 59:17SPEAKER_03: and the possibility of surprise because it's pretty,
- 59:20SPEAKER_03: it can be pretty great when it happens.
- 59:23SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
- 59:24SPEAKER_01: As you have shown.
- 59:25SPEAKER_01: Thank you so much, Lisa.
- 59:26SPEAKER_00: Right.
- 59:27SPEAKER_00: Thank you, Lisa.
- 59:27SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
- 59:29SPEAKER_00: Thank you everyone for listening.
- 59:31SPEAKER_00: I hope you enjoyed that interview with Lisa Abend.
- 59:35SPEAKER_00: Check out her Substack newsletter, The Unplugged Traveler.
- 59:39SPEAKER_00: Also, pick up her book, The Sorcerer's Apprentices.
- 59:46SPEAKER_00: And also, if you haven't subscribed to our newsletter yet, please do.
- 59:50SPEAKER_00: Just go to newworlder.com or search for New Worlder on Substack.
- 59:54SPEAKER_00: There are both paid and free subscriptions,
- 59:57SPEAKER_00: but if you listen to this episode at all,
- 1:00:00SPEAKER_00: the paid ones really do help,
- 1:00:02SPEAKER_00: and it helps me create a life for myself without slumming it in the writing best-of
- 1:00:14SPEAKER_00: list all the time.
- 1:00:15SPEAKER_00: So please do it.
- 1:00:17SPEAKER_00: It really helps.
- 1:00:19SPEAKER_00: And a big thank you to my friend Pat Buzzard for providing the music to the show.
- 1:00:26SPEAKER_00: Thanks again everyone.
- 1:00:27SPEAKER_00: See you soon.