Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / The Gilded Age S2 with Costume Designer, Kasia Walicka-Maimone
Transcript
- 0:11When we read the script and it started this, so we all just had
- 0:15this big laugh and we made a one of the characters that was taken
- 0:20from the research, the size of it, and it did not fit in the
- 0:24frame of the doorway. So we had to chop it off the
- 0:29door. We all looked at each other.
- 0:30I was like, Oh my God, this one's too far.
- 0:32We need to scale back a little bit.
- 0:43Hello and welcome to the Art of Costume podcast.
- 0:45I'm Elizabeth Joy Glass. And I am Missus Russell's valet,
- 0:49Mr. Williams, but you could also call me Spencer.
- 0:52Hello Spencer, you would make a great valet.
- 0:55Like I feel like you'd be like top tier.
- 0:57Never be out of a job. Yeah, if it's like valet in the
- 1:01terms of like, I feel like in a Gilded Age, it's a bit
- 1:05different. You kind of do a little bit of
- 1:06everything. And then there's, you know,
- 1:08modern day valets that are driving cars will not be good at
- 1:12that. I I do not enjoy parking, but I.
- 1:15Would definitely serve. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 1:18Like planning the parties, introducing people.
- 1:22Helping her pick her outfits, stand out her door and just try
- 1:26not to smile, Looking at her lovingly.
- 1:31Oh, yeah, but you got to keep that stoic look on your face.
- 1:34Yeah. Oh.
- 1:38Elizabeth. How's it going?
- 1:41It's going, it's just, it's been a busy time.
- 1:44You know, it's award season. So I've been busy, busy, busy
- 1:48doing all of that. Elizabeth, we have a fun episode
- 1:53in store, but before we get into it, it's, I think we need to
- 1:58take some time to dive into our inbox a little bit.
- 2:00We have a lot of feedback to go through.
- 2:02Yes, yes, please. It's it's been a minute.
- 2:05It's been a minute. Well, first, our Fallout bonus
- 2:10episode just came out recently with costume designer Amy
- 2:13Westcott. Have you finished Fallout yet?
- 2:16Oh yeah. I finished.
- 2:18It I finished it the other day. Yeah, it.
- 2:21Was good. It was good.
- 2:25I, I'm obsessed with it. I mean, everyone who listened to
- 2:27the episode knows I'm obsessed with it.
- 2:29I I won't be surprised if we lost some listeners after the
- 2:33the nerdy levels I was giving off on that episode.
- 2:37But for this first comment, it's actually coming from our
- 2:41YouTube, which I got to say our YouTube is kicking off.
- 2:45So if you all like to see some pictures of our episodes, head
- 2:48over to our YouTube page. We're posting shorts Daniel's
- 2:52posting videos of our episodes. Definitely worth to watch.
- 2:56Those episodes come out on Wednesdays at the moment, but
- 3:00you know, with the channels moving and grooving, so there
- 3:03might be some changes soon. So the first comment about
- 3:07Fallout is from at Kristen 3060 on YouTube and they said I'm a
- 3:12costume designer and I'm enjoying this interview while
- 3:15playing Fallout 76 at the same time.
- 3:18Thank you for this channel. I love it and.
- 3:21That's so nice. Thanks, Kristen.
- 3:23I yeah, I I actually do listen to podcasts while I play games
- 3:27sometimes, but only like the nice easy games 'cause my
- 3:31attention span isn't that strong.
- 3:33Like while you're doing some Stardew Valley farming.
- 3:36Oh, Oh yeah, yeah, that's the ticket right there.
- 3:39Right, right. On TikTok Ajs concepts said such
- 3:46a great job especially in a vault tec suits.
- 3:49Awesome textures and distressing.
- 3:52What did you think of the vault suits, Elizabeth?
- 3:55Oh my gosh, I thought they were so cool.
- 3:57I thought I thought they were great.
- 4:00They they like balanced like this hyper stylized like concept
- 4:07of like the 50s and 60s with some something very realistic
- 4:13and it just worked. It really just worked the whole
- 4:16time. So I I loved it, especially the
- 4:20vault tech suits. They they were so funny.
- 4:24But then when she got into the wasteland and it like evolved
- 4:28over time, I was like, you go girl, you look that ass in that
- 4:31suit. Yeah, they're really cool and I
- 4:34was excited to see how they would do them because in the
- 4:36games, you know, like Amy mentions an episode, they're
- 4:38very flat and just form fitting so they they look ridiculous in
- 4:43the suit. So I was interested to see how
- 4:45they would bring it to life. And I love just the use of
- 4:48texture and that like leather pleating they did on the arms, I
- 4:53thought made it kind of edgy too.
- 4:55And just, I don't know, a little bit more realistic.
- 4:57And I really want one honestly, that might be a Comic Con Look,
- 5:02It's, it's easy. It looks good, you know.
- 5:06And then we got 1A, we got A11 costume to rule them all.
- 5:11And this one is from Stabo Krabo, and their one costume to
- 5:16rule them all was just a power armor.
- 5:18Which I gotta say is a good one because I cannot believe those
- 5:21things are real. Every time I see them it just
- 5:24blows my. Mind, yeah, that's like hard to
- 5:27wrap your head around that. Those exist.
- 5:31It's wild. Could you imagine having one
- 5:34like at home just walking around the house in it?
- 5:36No, I couldn't. I could not.
- 5:40I'm so jealous. Let's actually go to another
- 5:44bonus episode, the Shogun episode where we have costume
- 5:47designer Carlos Rosario. Have you finished Shogun yet?
- 5:50I have not finished Shogun. I got caught up in Fallout and
- 5:55forgot about Shogun. That's the problem with this
- 5:59podcast. There's just too much.
- 6:00Too much. Well, I love the conversation
- 6:04with Carlos Rosario. I think he's so talented.
- 6:06And actually a lot of the messages we got were from other
- 6:10costume designers such as Jenny Tamim, who did the costumes from
- 6:14House of the Dragon. She commented saying beautiful
- 6:17costumes, just an incredible job, which I have to agree.
- 6:21And that's coming from Jenny Tamim, who's done Harry Potter,
- 6:24House of the Dragon, so on, so forth.
- 6:26So and then, of course, Aggie Rogers messaged him just saying,
- 6:31Carlos, dude, you rock. Like, yeah, that's sweet.
- 6:37We got another one. Costume ruled them all from
- 6:39Olivia of Sweden. They said their favorite costume
- 6:42was actually Toranaga's Peacock armor.
- 6:44I'm not sure if you've gone to that armor yet, but once you see
- 6:47it. Will I know what it is?
- 6:50I think you will. It's a good one.
- 6:54And then someone else commented on Instagram about Mariko, who
- 6:59is one of the main characters from the show.
- 7:02She's a translator. Author Walt Muscle on Instagram
- 7:07said I saw Mariko's individual pieces as singular poems.
- 7:10I missed our Carlos Aligny's costumes with Mariko's character
- 7:14arc and create an epic. That was fascinating and gotta
- 7:18agree. I mean, the fact that costume
- 7:20designers are able to tell such like intricate, sometimes under
- 7:25the surface stories with the use of color and textures and
- 7:29silhouettes is amazing to me. And Carlos is great at it.
- 7:34Yeah, you'll, you'll definitely see more as you finish the show,
- 7:37but we'll, we'll follow up with you.
- 7:39Yes. Oh, you all know when I finished
- 7:41it. Yeah, and then Elizabeth, we
- 7:45have to talk about the mummy. And as expected, the inbox was
- 7:49packed full of messages about our mummy episode that we can't
- 7:54even get through all of them. There's just so many.
- 7:57So what I have gathered is but everyone just finds everyone in
- 8:02this movie to be just incredibly too hot, too sexy, no one can
- 8:08handle it. I mean accurate.
- 8:12On Instagram at Miss Morningstar said this movie is a reason why
- 8:17my standards are too high and. I I agree, I think.
- 8:23I think that's I have that problem too.
- 8:28Marsh's Love on Instagram said the obsession for this film was
- 8:31endless. Got to the point I could recite
- 8:33the whole script by ear. Truly obsessed. 11 year old
- 8:37here. I'm like, yeah, that's fair.
- 8:40I could probably, I don't think I could recite it word by word,
- 8:44but I, I don't know. It's a good test.
- 8:48I might have been able to do it in like middle or high school.
- 8:51Maybe not the whole thing, but like good good chunks of it.
- 8:54Yeah, I mean we took a little mummy break, which is why this
- 8:57episode was so exciting 'cause we got to get back to our get
- 9:01back to our happy place, as one would say.
- 9:04OK love this comment made me die.
- 9:09Cherish Richardson on TikTok said.
- 9:12The way I used to think about Emo Tep's thighs, he was out of
- 9:19control and that's all it says. That's fair.
- 9:40Very fair. That's that's fair.
- 9:43It got the comments, got so horny at one point that I I
- 9:48noticed three or four people signing on to essentially a
- 9:51thread or a letter to Arnold Voslu just petitioning you and I
- 9:56to somehow contact him and just let him know he's hot.
- 9:59So that's happening. I.
- 10:02Mean. If he doesn't know that already,
- 10:05I'd be surprised, but. Look, if we had that poll of
- 10:09Arnold, he would be a regular on the podcast.
- 10:12I'm just saying bon my case on bath and their comment just said
- 10:18damn daddy emo tip. I don't think you all are
- 10:22talking much about the costumes, which is the point of all this.
- 10:25But that's fine, we'll make an exception.
- 10:28Yeah, yeah, this is the one exception.
- 10:32Yeah, and then we got 21 costume to rule them alls from our
- 10:36Instagram channel page. Robert JC Pugh said their
- 10:41favorite costume was Evie's boat look.
- 10:44It was flawless. And yeah, I mean, that's a good
- 10:47one. And then Jedi Manda said Evie's
- 10:52library look was their favorite costume.
- 10:55So, yeah, And at the end of the day, yeah, I think Evie really
- 11:00is the one to be in terms of the one costume to rule them all.
- 11:04If you want to start getting it to the hottest conversation,
- 11:07then it just gets more complicated, but.
- 11:09That's like I you can't compare any of them to one another.
- 11:15Like it's just, it's too complicated.
- 11:18Yeah, it's too complicated. It's too complicated.
- 11:22But alas, it was fun nonetheless.
- 11:25So thank you all for writing in. We love reading your messages,
- 11:28even if they're just. If you need to get out your
- 11:31horny internal thoughts about Emo Tep, that's fine.
- 11:34I mean, we're here for it. Oh sorry, the thighs comments,
- 11:41you still got me. Yeah, I was expecting to hear
- 11:49that on the Gilded Age episode, Elizabeth Three.
- 11:53Today's episode, highly anticipated.
- 11:57What are we talking about? This week we watched The Gilded
- 12:02Age. Probably like this is top five
- 12:06of like my favorite shows currently on TV.
- 12:10Oh, it's the absolute best we So this is our second Gilded Age
- 12:14episode. Actually, we're talking about
- 12:16season 2 today. So we there's already an hour's
- 12:19more than an hour's worth of us talking about this show.
- 12:22I was gonna. Say that was a long one, that.
- 12:25Was a long one and it's about to get even longer 'cause we both.
- 12:29I just think this is a perfect show.
- 12:31I just don't get why more people aren't watching it.
- 12:33It's flawless. It really is.
- 12:36And it's like, I, I think I've, I know I've told you this
- 12:40before. I don't know if I said on the
- 12:41podcast though, it's like low stakes drama.
- 12:46It's like all the intensity of drama, but the stakes are so low
- 12:52'cause the majority of it is just like these rich people
- 12:55problems that you can just like relax and be like, Oh my gosh,
- 13:01do people really live like that? The majority of this show, the
- 13:07idea of like, it's not about the destination, but the journey.
- 13:10That's really all the drama. No one cares who wins the opera
- 13:13war. You just want to watch them
- 13:15fight. Absolutely, Absolutely.
- 13:19I don't care how many times Missus Van Ryan complaints that
- 13:26her niece is working, I just wanna see what they're wearing
- 13:29while they argue it out 'cause they both look beautiful.
- 13:33Yeah, they kill it every time. Man, We've been talking about
- 13:37this episode for a while. I think we should just get into
- 13:40it 'cause obviously we have a lots of, lots of thoughts and
- 13:43feelings this episode. I'll start off with a summary,
- 13:47if you don't mind. Lady Elizabeth.
- 13:49Not at all. All right, the American Gilded
- 13:53Age was a period of immense economic change, great conflict
- 13:58between old ways and brand new systems, and huge fortunes made
- 14:03and lost. In season two of the Gilded Age,
- 14:06Bertha Russell inches toward a leading role in society, Marion
- 14:10Brooke started teaching, Ada begins a new courtship, and
- 14:14Peggy taps into her activist spirit.
- 14:17And that is a very tiny summary for a very long, perfect season
- 14:22of the Gilded Age. Absolutely.
- 14:25Go watch it, it's so much fun. If you like this our podcast,
- 14:32you're gonna love this show. Right.
- 14:35It was everything we love. It's just good costumes, people
- 14:40arguing, arguing while holding glasses or or teacups and
- 14:45teacups. And champagne flutes.
- 14:48Yeah, and throwing shade. Oh yeah, Elizabeth, let's do it.
- 14:52Let's do it. Let's go.
- 14:54Behind the costumes we have creator Julian Fellowes and
- 14:58costume designer Kasha Waleska Mamona.
- 15:02You will know her work from Capote, for which she got a
- 15:05Costume Designer Guild Domination, Little Manhattan,
- 15:09Moneyball, Moonrise Kingdom, Bridge of Spies, A Quiet Place,
- 15:15Ready Player 1, Quiet Place Part 2, and the Wonderful Story of
- 15:21Henry Sugar. And of course, today we're
- 15:25talking about the Gilded Age, for which she got another
- 15:28Costume Designer Guild nomination.
- 15:31Yeah, she, I mean, she's racking in these nominations.
- 15:34She has two for the Gilded Age. Oh yeah, one for each season,
- 15:37right? Yeah, yeah, she's killing it
- 15:41then. I mean, I'm such a big fan of
- 15:43Kasha Woliska Mamona and you and I have been talking about
- 15:49talking to her for a long while about these costumes.
- 15:53And some of you might not know, but I do a lot of the outreach
- 15:57on the show. And I've been searching far and
- 16:01wide to get Kasha on the podcast.
- 16:04It was rough. I couldn't find her.
- 16:06It saved my life. And one day I was at a party and
- 16:10I happened to be talking to our friend Christine WADA.
- 16:13And I was introduced to someone and it happened to be 1 Kasha
- 16:16Walliska Mamona. So I'm so excited to say that we
- 16:21became fast friends and she agreed to join us today on the
- 16:25podcast Elizabeth. We're gonna take a little break.
- 16:28And when we come back, we're gonna be joined by the the myth,
- 16:32the legend, Kasha, Walliska, Mamona.
- 16:35I can't wait. I'm so excited the.
- 17:03I am so excited to introduce costume designer Kasha Waleska
- 17:07Lamona. Hey Kasha, how are you?
- 17:11Hi, thank you so much for having me.
- 17:13I'm thrilled to be on your podcast.
- 17:14Thank you. We're so excited to talk to you.
- 17:16We've been talking about you and your work for a long while.
- 17:20And Elizabeth, I didn't even tell you I saw Kasha at the
- 17:24costume awards. I was talking to Christine WADA.
- 17:26And Christine was like, oh, have you met Kasha before?
- 17:30And I almost, like, spit my drink out, like, I've been
- 17:33looking for you. Yeah.
- 17:38Well, we have a lot of questions, so I'll just jump
- 17:40right into it. I first want to begin with the
- 17:43overall picture. The Gilded Age takes place
- 17:45during the late 1800s, a fascinating period in history
- 17:49that we have also come to know for its progressive styles and
- 17:53trends. So when you started a Gilded
- 17:55Age, can you tell us about your research and how you came to
- 17:58prepare for this project? For me, every projects process
- 18:03starts with reading the script and analyzing the script on
- 18:09figuring out what is it. What are the steps that I need
- 18:12to take to discover what is the underlying language, visual
- 18:15language for all the characters? What is the world that we are
- 18:19discovering? And after the first initial
- 18:21discussions with the writer, director, I dive into deep
- 18:26research. I work with the researcher
- 18:28Susanna Gilbert. I've she's worked on the other
- 18:30project with me for many, many years.
- 18:33And she started building a library, visual library of the
- 18:37period, which by now, after second season, has about 36,000
- 18:44images, maybe 40,000 images of the period of the paintings,
- 18:49drawings, fashion magazines, photographs.
- 18:53It's a giant library. We also were lucky to get access
- 18:59to several museums, which during pandemic documented their
- 19:05collections in the spectacular way.
- 19:08Right now you can have access to most of the museum's libraries,
- 19:11costume libraries with those spectacular views of all the
- 19:16dresses from every every angle. We can see clearly every detail.
- 19:22Unlike in previous years when you had to make an appointment
- 19:26in a museum and wear white gloves and maybe get to see five
- 19:31or six dresses at one of the session.
- 19:33Right now we have access to all the museums.
- 19:37Most of the museums did digitize the their files and after that
- 19:43initial understanding and learning of the of the period,
- 19:48we start with the creative start forming the language of what is
- 19:51it that it needs to be. And in the Gilded Age, very
- 19:55clearly, it became very clear to me and I proposed this to to all
- 20:01of our parties that we needed to find a language of excitement of
- 20:05that period. That period was so exceptionally
- 20:10new for its time, so. Of course with the variation
- 20:14between, I mean that as the world, that the world is so
- 20:16varied, there was so many variety of, of approaches in
- 20:21that period. But there was this, there was
- 20:24definitely newness that that I was very much excited to
- 20:29discover. And that meant creating a
- 20:35language for that period that we, the modern audience felt
- 20:40that it was a new language. So how do you do it?
- 20:45If we, the contemporary audience, we've been programmed
- 20:49by the last hundreds of years of, of fashion, the the history,
- 20:56the fashion and the current fashions that we are still
- 20:59affected by the 20s, thirties, 40s, fifties.
- 21:01We know who is John Daliano. We understand the spectacular
- 21:06world of fashion that is around us.
- 21:07We do understand Christian Dior, we understand all those great
- 21:11designers that brought so much freshness to our perceptions of
- 21:14what is exciting. So I thought that in order for
- 21:18us to feel this newness of the period of the Gilded Age, we
- 21:22have to put a little bit of the prism of the modern eye in
- 21:26looking at the period and, and figuring out how we're going to
- 21:30look at that period to find the pieces that really evoke this
- 21:33feeling of excitement. And I think that that started
- 21:38this process of the selection and pre selections and, and
- 21:42manipulation of colours. And, and we also knew we are not
- 21:47making a documentary. We are following a story,
- 21:50fictional story that is based very much on the real event,
- 21:55inspired by real fans that a story that stays within the
- 21:59framework of the period, but still creates a new language.
- 22:04So that was the process of discovery of how to how to blend
- 22:08all of those ideas that I just mentioned into, into one
- 22:12consistent vision. And so I think that's the that's
- 22:17the design part of the process of, you know, many discussions
- 22:22with all the creators, many discussions with the actors and
- 22:25many discussions with my team. Because after the initial design
- 22:31process, there is the giant task of how do you execute project
- 22:36like that? But.
- 22:39I can't even imagine because there's so many different
- 22:42characters, so many different storylines happening, and so
- 22:45much of this series is focused on the divide between the old
- 22:49elite who grew up with money and social power, and then a new
- 22:52wave of New Yorkers. How do you portray that contrast
- 22:56through costume? For example, we have Agnes Van
- 22:59Ryan and Missus Astor compared to Miss Russell, who I'm going
- 23:04to talk about quite a bit later. But so how do you find that line
- 23:08between these two groups of people?
- 23:11It's again, a lot of building of the world of characters.
- 23:14That's what we as costume designers, that's where we, we,
- 23:18we are trained to, to portray, to create those worlds for each
- 23:24character, to to find a language that is very particular to each
- 23:30person and very different from each other.
- 23:34And I feel costume represents like so many anthropological
- 23:40discoveries. Every character presents a world
- 23:45in the costume. We we understand the history of
- 23:49each character by by looking at those people, at looking at each
- 23:53character. And that's a lot of study of
- 23:57where does Agnes live? What is her background?
- 24:02What is her financial status? What is her social status?
- 24:07What is her character? Is it demure?
- 24:10Is it romantic? Is it playful?
- 24:14We know she's not romantic. She's not playful.
- 24:16She probably was one day. And there was.
- 24:21Maybe. Maybe there was.
- 24:23There was definitely a wealth of history that that I need to
- 24:29represent with each character. And I think this is the fun part
- 24:32because you also don't tell it all.
- 24:33You leave. You leave some speculation for
- 24:36each of them character, because we don't know fully.
- 24:39We don't we don't display all of the details.
- 24:42A lot of it is the surprises as we, as the plots develop and you
- 24:46rely on a lot of a lot of like historical concepts of what,
- 24:51what is the old guard? What is the new guard?
- 24:53And, and how do we as society understand color, how we
- 24:58perceive color, how we subconsciously react to colored
- 25:01patterns, to geometry? We have that information coded
- 25:05in us. All of us are coded.
- 25:06We know what the yellow means, we know what deep red means.
- 25:09We know what dark green means is very specific of frame.
- 25:14So it is about finding this language like a puzzle for each
- 25:20character of what is the information in each character.
- 25:24And that's the most fun part, like the developing of the
- 25:28characters, finding the, the skins for each character is
- 25:31really fantastic. I rely heavily on the research.
- 25:34The research is always the base of how I create visual boards,
- 25:39how I create the first responses, because that's how I
- 25:42communicate with the directors. That's how I communicate with
- 25:45the with Julian, that's how I communicate with the directors
- 25:47of photography, with the production design and with my
- 25:50team. And then from those three, from
- 25:53that research, the characters start to emerge.
- 25:56So the beginning, the first season was very challenging
- 25:58because we were developed popping all the characters were
- 26:01had to be developed. So you're finding out, finding
- 26:04out the history of each character and building up the
- 26:07world's. It's like building, it's like
- 26:09playing it's building. It's it's loading up the each,
- 26:13each world that we have endless amount of design boards and
- 26:16loading up those boards with images There's.
- 26:18So many characters too. So many characters, and the
- 26:21characters kept emerging and emerging.
- 26:23A library of the design boards. Massive.
- 26:25Now I think it's like a separate room with many shelves of the
- 26:29big design boards, but that were that's always my tool.
- 26:32The design boards are my tool of communications.
- 26:35And then from that there is on the 1st season we had two
- 26:38illustrators because it was so busy that there was no way
- 26:42anybody wanting illustrator on me could keep up with the
- 26:44drawings because we literally had to create hundreds of
- 26:47characters. On the second season, I was
- 26:49doing my own very rough sketches which were which my team learned
- 26:53how to read those fast sketches and then we were building
- 26:57fabrics on top of it and, and learning from what we learned in
- 27:02the first period. We're learning how to build the
- 27:06how to further build on the knowledge of the first period.
- 27:09Amazing, I'm already like living for this.
- 27:16Yeah, and I love that Season 2 starts off with us seeing all
- 27:19these incredible characters and. That was fun.
- 27:24Yeah, this Easter scene is just incredible.
- 27:28How did you and your team pull this off?
- 27:30Wow, this is first of all, I have to speak about the team,
- 27:33because discussing this project without discussing the team
- 27:38would be sacrilegious. It is an army of us who are
- 27:43making this an army of extraordinary talented people.
- 27:47I am so lucky to be in the room where the most talented people
- 27:52in this country. That's what I think, and it is
- 27:56people who are instrumental in executing this project.
- 27:59Patrick Wiley, Isabel Simone, Caroline Spitzer, Becca Freund,
- 28:05Gregg Poplix Subakua, Denise Andres, Rebecca Levin, and all
- 28:11those people have teams of people.
- 28:13So it is this army of super talented, super, super talented,
- 28:20experienced professionals who are so passionate and so
- 28:25supportive of this project that, you know, brought all of their
- 28:30expertise, brought of all their sources, brought the connections
- 28:34of how this project was, how it was possible to make this
- 28:38project happen. We worked with the makers in New
- 28:40York. We worked with a lot of makers
- 28:43and costume houses in Europe. And I think that there was this
- 28:48wild enthusiasm that spread between everybody that was
- 28:51involved, the embroiderers, the millionaires, of course, the
- 28:55millionaires. How can we talk about the same
- 28:57without them talking about? We could do a whole podcast
- 29:00about. Them there is this we we are so
- 29:03excited. We are going back to season 3
- 29:05and 98% of people are coming back and and there's we just all
- 29:10have big smiles. It's very challenging job.
- 29:12It's extraordinary, keeps us on our toes, but it's also being
- 29:18allowed to participate in this level of creativity and being
- 29:23part of this explosion of creativity creates this
- 29:27infectious energy that we all share because it is really being
- 29:34close to this creative source is extremely rewarding.
- 29:40When you saw the script for the Easter scene where you just, I
- 29:43could imagine your head must have been spinning.
- 29:46I think that we, when we read the, when we read the scripts
- 29:52and they start with, they start, we all just got this big laugh,
- 29:55laughter, big moment of just like we looked at each other and
- 29:59they started laughing. And very quickly into the
- 30:02research. And the first thing that I
- 30:05realized from the research was the size of the hats, you know,
- 30:09and that that idea of those hats, it still continues.
- 30:13I mean, we still see elements of those hats in pockets of the
- 30:17society in the States. And I think there was this
- 30:21amazing discovery. I also realized that in the in
- 30:25between the 1st and 2nd season that in the first season we had
- 30:30to train ourselves. So the we had to train our eyes
- 30:34and, and, and be and almost like prepare ourselves for what was
- 30:39coming in the second season in the reality those hats were that
- 30:43big. And I think it just took so much
- 30:47courage to go for it because those are enormous.
- 30:52And I went even bigger in the in the test trials, like we made a
- 30:57for one of the characters that was taken from the research, the
- 31:01size of it and it did not fit in the frame of the doorway.
- 31:06So we had to chop it off. We all looked at the times like,
- 31:11Oh my God, this one too far. We need to scale back a little
- 31:14bit. So and it also about finding the
- 31:16proportion right. But it makes sense for us, the
- 31:19contemporary and for the doors frames and how we can film the
- 31:24scenes without covering all of the faces.
- 31:26But so the Easter was so there was the discovery of the hats
- 31:30and also we knew that it has to be the spectacular extravaganza
- 31:34that is the whole town is going to the service.
- 31:38And this is also the display of the old, old world, the new
- 31:42world, the servants, the the black elite church.
- 31:47It's a giant, giant scene. We were, we had enough time to
- 31:51prepare for the scene and it was a spectacular fun preparing for
- 31:56the scene. I mean, I played around very
- 31:58much with the Easter colors. I mean, this is all it's Easter.
- 32:01We all know what Easter means. And from the research, I also
- 32:06played off from, from research from later periods of the colors
- 32:11of Easter, of the celebrations of Easter and fed in because I
- 32:15mean, there's definite element of speculation that you have to
- 32:18do while doing research because not everything is documented.
- 32:22There was actually a death period.
- 32:23We didn't have that much documentation of the colors
- 32:25other than some photographs and drawing inspirations even from
- 32:30packaging of candies for Easter. Just a lot of influences of what
- 32:36we needed to feed on the atmosphere and the colors and
- 32:41the spectacularness of Easter. So fun I could rewatch that
- 32:47episode over and over and over. Absolutely.
- 32:51And All Good on Age is obviously a very much an ensemble series.
- 32:56It's really Marian Brooks story that kind of guides us through
- 33:02as she drifts between, you know, her aunts and new money New
- 33:06York. Can you tell us about how her
- 33:09costumes help tell this her story?
- 33:14Marian. We know that Marian comes from a
- 33:17small village. She grew up without her mother,
- 33:21so without the guidance of a female figure.
- 33:26She is, she has naturally sense of great style.
- 33:33And I think that people are born with a with a sense of great
- 33:38style and she is one of those people.
- 33:42And then exposed to New York, she trains her eye to develop
- 33:47that sense of style. I think we all are born with
- 33:51certain responses of what we like and what we don't like.
- 33:56So I think maybe I take it back to the idea of great style.
- 33:59I mean, that's very, very subjective because we all might
- 34:02have different opinions about it.
- 34:04Actually, in her case, in her character, I call it great style
- 34:08because she, for me, somebody who has great style is they know
- 34:12themselves and they hold their own opinions strongly with
- 34:19within the new influences. And I feel like Marian does that
- 34:22pretty well, except that at some point at the end of season two,
- 34:27I think being exposed to the New York and being pretty much in
- 34:31between the two worlds of the old money and new money.
- 34:34We felt that at Saint Mariani starts to experiment with
- 34:37fashions. And maybe it's not the most
- 34:41natural match for her, who she is.
- 34:44And we felt with the director that it's OK that she misses
- 34:48here and there because that's because that's OK too for
- 34:50somebody young who is developing the sense of style.
- 34:53I think that I started with her with this very delicate patterns
- 34:57of flowery patterns that I designed for her character that
- 35:03were just beautiful fabrics, very much inspired by period
- 35:08patterns and work with our team to develop those beautiful
- 35:11prints and a lot of softer colors.
- 35:15She starts also in mourning those that one of the outfits
- 35:18here this and we know her father died and 1st she starts in the
- 35:22full morning in black and then goes to half morning which is
- 35:24grace with black and purple with black.
- 35:29Then we quickly take her out of the morning because that's what
- 35:32the family decides that she as a lady coming into the society,
- 35:36she can not be in mourning because that will be making her
- 35:41less, less present in the society.
- 35:45In season 2, we find Marian discovering her professional
- 35:50bathroom. She's a teacher.
- 35:51So that was also an adjustment of how to adjust her romantic
- 35:57clothing, dresses to to costumes that represent a young teacher.
- 36:04And there is certain level of elegance and respect in her
- 36:09clothing, her professional clothing.
- 36:11At the same time, I very much played with her ball gowns.
- 36:15I mean her ball gowns, I feel like a dream.
- 36:17And it's and they're just so beautifully constructed by Eric
- 36:22Winterlink. I mean, I have to make mention
- 36:24all of our makers, Eric Winterling, Tricorn, Barack,
- 36:30Jill and Marco Paul, they are extraordinary makers.
- 36:37Those people accomplished Bethany, they those people
- 36:40accomplished extraordinary works of art and brought the
- 36:44experience of many, many, many, many years of experience that
- 36:50was that make this whole job possible working with people
- 36:55like Cathy Marshall from Tricon and it's just extraordinary.
- 37:00Those people are so experienced, so talented, and they guided
- 37:05this process with the construction in the most
- 37:09exquisite way. It's just so many incredible
- 37:13artisans involved in all this, which is why, you know, we all
- 37:16love the show so much as it takes so many.
- 37:20I love when people say it takes a village, but this film series
- 37:23needed a army. Like you said earlier, I am
- 37:28excited to talk about Bertha Russell.
- 37:30I mean, Kasha, she is. I could just watch a hour of
- 37:36just Carrie Kuhn just acting, honestly, she is so incredible.
- 37:39And every single costume, it's just she's sharp, funny, fierce,
- 37:43theatrical, dramatic, over the top, innovative.
- 37:46I don't have enough words. So just working with Miss
- 37:52Russell, this must be like the dream for a costume designer
- 37:54because every look she's in, it's just she's always trying to
- 37:58top herself, I feel like. It is and I think it's beyond
- 38:03the dream I must say, because you cannot even dream it up.
- 38:07There's this moment when you are working on the on piece like
- 38:13this is that when you get the information of what needs to
- 38:16happen, then you do your research and it's and you find
- 38:20out all the pieces of the puzzle and you get those incredible
- 38:23actors and the costumes start to emerge.
- 38:27It is pretty amazing. It's almost impossible to talk
- 38:31about it because it's a process. It's like a creative process
- 38:34that we're trying to describe, and in some ways it's not.
- 38:40It's kind of hard to describe when when all the elements are
- 38:43starting piercing together. What we do know about Bertha is
- 38:47that she is so determined to be part of the society.
- 38:55So that builds A-frame for Bertha.
- 38:58At the same time, she is a woman who is absolutely interested in
- 39:03what is the newest, the best, and what comes from Europe and
- 39:09what is it that will make her better than most of the members
- 39:14of the society. So it's this interesting,
- 39:16interesting frame that I needed to, I needed to find her
- 39:21language within that frame because she cannot break away
- 39:25from that, from that frame. At the same time, she's right on
- 39:29the edge of it. So that's the fine line of like,
- 39:33how on earth do you going to balance on that edge?
- 39:37And how do you not push it towards too modern or too
- 39:40conservative? So I looked at thousands of
- 39:45images that inspired Bertha. Every element that Bertha worse
- 39:51comes from this extremely innovative period of the Gilded
- 39:56Age that some of the research is almost hard to believe that
- 39:59those shapes existed. The the level of asymmetry, the
- 40:02level of boldness, the level of organic draping, it all existed.
- 40:09It's just I think you just have to study the the history in a
- 40:15very rigorous way and and pull the elements what creates the
- 40:20newness of the period for her. And I think that there was so
- 40:25much material within the research that in a way it, it
- 40:30was, I think to, I'm still surprised so frequently how
- 40:35modern those pieces look in that period.
- 40:40Like I think that the fashion designers for years have been
- 40:43drawing from that period and finding the source of shapes
- 40:48and, and elements of tailoring that come from that period that
- 40:54are so incredibly lasting for decades with its newness and and
- 41:00boldness. Like this dress that you
- 41:02portraying here. This is taken from research.
- 41:04I manipulate the colors, I pushed the colors, but the
- 41:08colors are also very much inspired by a lot of the
- 41:11paintings, a lot of the visual vocabulary of that period, those
- 41:17colors, because interesting combinations of colors existed
- 41:21in the period. It's just sometimes we think
- 41:24about the period in a different way and don't and look at it
- 41:27differently, like not fully acknowledging that there was so
- 41:32much modernity already there. So, and it's interesting because
- 41:37forever design board, I created this historical back for each of
- 41:42the board because we were always laughing that I will I will be
- 41:47probably told that it didn't exist, but it actually did.
- 41:52And I might have taken apart the dresses and we used top of one
- 41:55dress and bottom from another, but I would consider it to be a
- 41:59big crime. Yeah, so much creativity with
- 42:04Missus Russell. So much and so much creativity
- 42:08in Newport. NY's Best Getaway and New
- 42:15Newport just gives the costumes a whole different spin.
- 42:19How would you explain the Newport aesthetic and how do you
- 42:23translate that into your costumes?
- 42:27The Newport, that was a very different vocabulary than the
- 42:31city it it is summer, it is very different fabrics, it's linens,
- 42:37very light silks, it is breezy. It is also designed for
- 42:46lifestyle of leisure and and celebrations and parties and
- 42:51events. So it's a very specific
- 42:54vocabulary. And there was once again so much
- 42:56research of the Newport and all those shapes as wild and bald
- 43:01they are, they came majority of them came from the real
- 43:04research. It's a lifestyle that was for
- 43:07the privileged. People had just trunks of new
- 43:13outfits designed for the Newport events, which is endless amount
- 43:20of pleasure and fun. Love that I also at this season
- 43:25loved Miss Turner becoming Missus Winterton who was clearly
- 43:32ready for payback. This must have been a fun
- 43:35character to design. That was a fantastic character
- 43:39to design because it was the combination.
- 43:41I think it was amazing about this character that she really
- 43:47knows the language of the old guard and she really knows the
- 43:50language of the new guard. So I felt that for her being the
- 43:56wife of an elderly gentleman, she needs to obey by the rules
- 44:01of the old guard at the same time create this newness of the
- 44:05new guard. So I chose very conservative
- 44:12silhouettes, but put her in very bright light, pastelic colours
- 44:17of the new new guard. So that was the approach and of
- 44:21course building this incredible sophistication to her because we
- 44:25do didn't know that Turner was the advisor for Bertha for all
- 44:29those years while working for her.
- 44:32So she gets to play with what she knows and uses it to this
- 44:42incredible manipulation of strategizing her her powers.
- 44:49I love it my I think one of my favorite scenes is when they see
- 44:52each other for the first time. I could watch the moment forever
- 44:56and ever. So hilarious.
- 44:59That's Julian. That's just Julian's building of
- 45:01the story and suspenses and humanity, and it's just he
- 45:06creates those really, really fun scenarios for us to portray.
- 45:11One of my favorite looks from this whole series was Aunt Ada's
- 45:17wedding gown. It's something we typically
- 45:21wouldn't consider traditional in today's world, but it was so
- 45:25perfect for Aunt Ada. What was your concept behind her
- 45:29look? So cute I'm gonna cry again.
- 45:32Once again, I know it's so beautiful, right?
- 45:34That that whole scene is so beautiful.
- 45:37Once again, driven by the material, driven by the script
- 45:40and driven by the research. And that in the Gilded Age,
- 45:44majority of the ladies were getting married, did not wear
- 45:48white. White was very rare.
- 45:51And particularly for somebody who was not 20 years old, that
- 45:57was definitely, it was a usually a day dress, a pretty day dress
- 46:00with a veil. And that's exactly what we did
- 46:03for Aunt Ada. And I thought it was fun to
- 46:08discover. That's because I didn't know
- 46:10about that. I, I was expecting when I read
- 46:12it on the page that she's getting married.
- 46:14I was, I thought, how, how on earth are we going to do this?
- 46:18Because she has so little time to create her dress.
- 46:20We knew that it was taking time creating the dresses.
- 46:24Once we discovered the research, it became the the answer was
- 46:28kind of easy because we knew that it's going to it will have
- 46:32to be the dress that is a day dress with elements, what we
- 46:40understand now as the wedding elements with the touches of the
- 46:43white and this beautiful veil. I love it.
- 46:47I also loved Peggy's just exquisite ball gown.
- 46:53Could you talk about working with Danny Benton as Peggy Scott
- 46:58and this fantastic ball look? The butterflies.
- 47:03Thank you. She is then, is a dream.
- 47:07I mean, as are all the actors. We are so lucky to work with
- 47:11those superstars who are not only so phenomenal at their
- 47:15jobs, they're also beautiful, kind, respectful people who
- 47:22understand the process of costume making as I
- 47:26extraordinary respectful and collaborated in the process.
- 47:30So creating this, this was such a fantastic piece written by
- 47:34Julianne of this ball that we got to design yet another ball
- 47:40and. Ball every other episode.
- 47:43No, I was like, that is just a dream again.
- 47:46And I did find a research piece of research that inspired this
- 47:51dress very much and then transformed the colors of it.
- 47:54And it was a very fast we didn't have much time to make this
- 47:59dress and it was this incredibly complicated process of printing
- 48:05that needed to happen. It was Caroline Spitzer was in
- 48:10charge of the printing and collaborated once again.
- 48:16We work with two amazing printers, Dynamics, and we work
- 48:19with Patrick with his studio. And it was all about finding the
- 48:27geometry of the butterflies on the dress.
- 48:30That was the big technical challenge.
- 48:32And Carolina kept making little minis from paper to make sure
- 48:37that those butterflies are spread dice flying, just in the
- 48:42right. Perfect positions and we kept
- 48:44adjusting the prints because it's not that easy to print that
- 48:48kind of a pattern on a dress form.
- 48:52That was actually technically a really challenging dress to to
- 48:57make. And it was Kathy Marshall and
- 49:00the printers and us figuring out the proportions and placement
- 49:05and the sizes of the butterflies.
- 49:10Very, I mean, that was, I mean, we, we figured out how the
- 49:12butterflies are going to fit into the dress.
- 49:14I mean, like, could this be any more of a dream job?
- 49:19I got the butterflies going to be on the dress.
- 49:21It was really, it was kind of phenomenal.
- 49:26Well, I personally feel like the dream keeps going because we get
- 49:29to the epic season finale in terms of winning and losing.
- 49:33And I we all knew the season was going to and with the bang.
- 49:38But to me, I feel like it exceeded all expectations.
- 49:42The opera war between Mrs. Russell's Metropolitan and Mrs.
- 49:47Astor's Academy of Music. It's clear that Mrs. Russell won
- 49:50the fight and I feel like part of it is seen in the costume.
- 49:54So can you take us back to the costumes of the opera finale?
- 49:58You could. We could probably do a whole
- 50:00podcast on this specific episode.
- 50:02The challenge of this finale was portraying the two different
- 50:08worlds in two opera houses and creating this dynamic of the two
- 50:13different worlds and this competition and like the rhythm
- 50:20of this episode. And we knew that the old guard
- 50:24is going to be this classic whites and classic deep mixed
- 50:28with deep colors. And and very what we do know is
- 50:34the classic glamour colors. And I wanted to break it up with
- 50:39the with the colors for for the new world.
- 50:44And those colors did exist. They didn't maybe exist in those
- 50:48combinations, but they did exist.
- 50:50And I decided to use this mint green for Bertha because if you
- 50:56watch the final moment when she, when she steps into this giant
- 51:01red Opera House, I thought there was no other color other than
- 51:06this mint green that would separate her from, from this
- 51:10whole Gen. world and focus your eyes on that mint green.
- 51:14And I think that it, I think it worked actually for her to be
- 51:18separated from, from the world around her.
- 51:21And I decided that's what she wants.
- 51:26This famous iron dress. That famous iron dress was made
- 51:30in white and black. It was made in pink and it was
- 51:34made in pale blue, if I'm correct.
- 51:37I don't 100% remember, but I'm pretty sure that those are the
- 51:39three colors that the iron dress existed in.
- 51:43And so I manipulated that to, to this meant the green, because
- 51:47this meant green also stood for something that that represented
- 51:51in US. That was the color that was
- 51:53quite new in that period. And, and I felt that birth.
- 51:57That was the woman who was embracing all those provocative
- 52:05values, probably of that period, and at the same time using a
- 52:10very classic dress that was keeping her within the framework
- 52:16of the society. We have to give a shout out to
- 52:20to Gladys as well, who really was coming into her own.
- 52:24And that purple look, It is one of the coolest costumes I think
- 52:28I've seen in a minute is so good.
- 52:30And I know she's having kind of a rough night.
- 52:32She might not know it yet, but she looks amazing.
- 52:36Yeah, that was that was a game like decided to use this color.
- 52:41I definitely felt that it was. It was a bold move for for this
- 52:49part and the and the design part, it just felt that that's
- 52:53what it needed to be in order for them to separate.
- 52:55This is a language of filmmaking.
- 52:57I think that that we decided to embrace is that creating a
- 53:02spectacle within the framework of the history.
- 53:07And the shapes come very much from historical research.
- 53:12The color comes from historical research.
- 53:15But I think that the way I was applying it was driven by the
- 53:20story, by the needs of each scene versus on on portraying
- 53:25the reality of what was happening at that period.
- 53:28So I feel like I was responding to the rhythm of the of the
- 53:34scripts, the rhythm of what that material was calling for, how it
- 53:38needed to be present, represented visually.
- 53:41And that sometimes demands of demands invention of a language
- 53:47that is very specific for, for the piece that we are creating
- 53:52versus representing, reflecting just the history of the of the
- 53:59period. And that's the big dilemma that
- 54:01we all just keep discussing. Is this how it's done?
- 54:06But this is how it that's this is how we have been doing it for
- 54:09the Gilded Age. I think it's very much driven by
- 54:12the page of what's on the page. What's, what's what is the
- 54:16story? Driving.
- 54:17Driving the visual representation.
- 54:21Well, I mean, we could easily talk to you for hours, but we do
- 54:25want to end with one final question because this has been
- 54:28such a joy. Thank you so much.
- 54:30The Gilded Age is such a hit and we are so happy to hear it's
- 54:33moving on for a third season. So what has the show meant to
- 54:37you so far? Now doing two seasons and I hope
- 54:401/3 as well. For me, working on this piece
- 54:44means so many things. One is the collaboration of
- 54:49those extraordinary talents, the writer Julian Fellowes, the
- 54:53producers, the director, the DPS, the production designer.
- 54:59Working on this material is so extremely rewarding because it's
- 55:03I consider myself to be a New Yorker transplanted from Poland,
- 55:08but I'm a New Yorker by now, and discovering the history of New
- 55:12York in such detail from that period is such a privilege.
- 55:16It's such a treat to to live in that world of history of the
- 55:22town that I love so much. Also addressing, addressing the
- 55:27social issues that are happening in that period, which are
- 55:30extremely valid still today and representing those representing
- 55:37the different social, economic, political moments that that we
- 55:44starting to discover in season 2.
- 55:47And I'm not sure what we're going to be discovering season
- 55:49three, but I speculator we'll be discovering more.
- 55:52It's extremely valid for me because we continuously learn
- 55:58about presence from the lens of history.
- 56:02It also for me, it's I am so proud to be part of this team
- 56:08that is creating it. And we all learn from each other
- 56:11continuously. We are sharpening our skills
- 56:15daily. I think that we are building, we
- 56:19building our knowledge every day of what we have learned so far
- 56:23and how we go into the future. And it is such a joyful process
- 56:29collaborating with those incredible artisans and
- 56:32designers and makers. It's, it's truly, it's, it's
- 56:37workplace of masters and you continuously learn from each
- 56:42other. It's that part is spectacular.
- 56:47I am also so proud to be part of entertainment that truly
- 56:54entertains people right now, because I think that we as the
- 56:57world are in a extremely challenging place and we all
- 57:02need entertainment, pure pleasure and entertainment.
- 57:07And I think Gilded Age provides it really well that the, the
- 57:10response that we got from people from the street is really
- 57:14beautiful. Like there's so many people who
- 57:16truly enjoy the time with the Gilded Age and some might be
- 57:20critics and that's OK. Nevertheless, they still enjoy
- 57:23it. So that's the fun part.
- 57:26Like even the haters love it. So that is the, and everybody
- 57:30was like, we still love it. So I think that that's the fun
- 57:34part. I was like, it's really fun to
- 57:36be part of entertainment. It's really, I feel like we, we
- 57:39providing, we providing something for the soul that is
- 57:43that is quite rewarding. And if I can keep delivering the
- 57:48beauty, it's pretty. It's a privileged place to be.
- 57:53Costume designer Kasha Wiliska Mamona, thank you so much for
- 57:56joining us. This has been It's talk to Joy.
- 57:59Yeah. And we can't wait to see what's
- 58:02next. Hi, this is Dan, audio engineer
- 58:22of the podcast here to let you know that if you wanted to
- 58:25support the show, you can head over to the Art of
- 58:28costume.com/podstore. There you can buy some awesome T
- 58:33public merch with the podcast logo such as a shirt, coffee
- 58:38mug, stickers, and of course a baby onesie.
- 58:43Thanks for all your support. Spencer That was great.
- 59:08That was everything I wanted from that interview.
- 59:10That was amazing. I think my only complaint is
- 59:13that I wish it was like 3 hours longer.
- 59:16Right, right. I, I always just want to like,
- 59:20sit down with the costume designer in front of the
- 59:22television and just like, watch whatever we're talking about and
- 59:25be like, oh, what about this? What about this?
- 59:28Right. I mean, I have a million and two
- 59:30questions, but I'm so thankful that she got to talk with us and
- 59:34talk about this amazing show. She gave us so much great
- 59:37insight. And, you know, I'm just so
- 59:39thankful to Kasha and I hope I'm just saying there needs to be an
- 59:44Emmy nomination in the near future.
- 59:46I'm not afraid to say it deserves it.
- 59:49Dare I say possibly an envy win. But you know, that's for the
- 59:53Academy to figure out. Elizabeth we've, we've been
- 59:59talking a lot about costumes, but I, I think we still have a
- 1:00:03little bit of time. I don't know about you, but I
- 1:00:05kind of want to talk about some Gilded Age scandals.
- 1:00:08I love this idea, truly. I truly love this idea.
- 1:00:14OK, well, what we're gonna do, since we don't want this episode
- 1:00:17to be 3 hours long, we're gonna do a quick fire round of
- 1:00:22scandals where I'm gonna say the scandal and we could give, you
- 1:00:25know, a couple sentences or whatever about these scandals.
- 1:00:29I mean, I mean, you're also Co producer, so if you break the
- 1:00:32rules, that's on you. But you know, we'll we'll figure
- 1:00:36it out. Yeah.
- 1:00:38All right. So first one, Elizabeth, this is
- 1:00:41this is a softball one. Larry Russell and his romance of
- 1:00:45Susan Blaine the Widow. Oh oh, that was hot, but I think
- 1:00:53it might come back to bite him in the ass.
- 1:00:58I gotta say, I thought it was super hot and I'm super into it
- 1:01:02and I just think Larry Russell was killing it.
- 1:01:05Honestly, he. Really was.
- 1:01:08He really was. I was very invested and I, I
- 1:01:12felt sad when it had to come to an end.
- 1:01:14That was my one time. I, I, I shook, I shook my finger
- 1:01:18at Mrs. Russell. I was like, no, no, no, Miss
- 1:01:21Russell let. It happen, Yeah, yeah.
- 1:01:23She had a point though. She had a point, though.
- 1:01:26For the day and age, she had a point.
- 1:01:29She had a point. I get it.
- 1:01:31I'm I'm sure back then it probably was frowned upon.
- 1:01:34Whatever. OK, next scandal, the arrival of
- 1:01:39Missus Winterton. Oh my gosh, Oh my gosh.
- 1:01:44That was this was scandalous. This was so scandalous.
- 1:01:49Just like when you see her at the end of the episode, you're
- 1:01:51like who? When we're why and how?
- 1:01:54Like like what? And like, I was so confused at
- 1:01:59first. I didn't register that it was
- 1:02:01her because she freaking looks like Missus Russell.
- 1:02:06Like it is so wild and shocking and then just the way she tries
- 1:02:11and like destroys, Misses Russell.
- 1:02:14I'm like, I get it girl, but also like, what's the point?
- 1:02:17You married a rich man, Just enjoy your life.
- 1:02:20I had a so exact reaction the first time when the Russells
- 1:02:24turn around and see Misses Winterton.
- 1:02:26I had the same reaction. I was like who the what the how
- 1:02:30the But I also agree with you though.
- 1:02:34I was like this beef is unfounded.
- 1:02:36I mean I get it they don't have to be best friends but I also
- 1:02:40thought they had like a decent relationship it just.
- 1:02:42Felt it. Felt a little aggressive.
- 1:02:46The way she like, the way Mrs. Winterton like, twisted the
- 1:02:50narrative of her trying to like, seduce Mr. Russell.
- 1:02:56I was like, that's no, no girl, that's so underhanded and shady.
- 1:03:02Like, how dare you? So then our next scandal is
- 1:03:07Misses Russell. No, you're Misses Russell
- 1:03:11finding out about Mr. Russell and Misses Winterton.
- 1:03:15And you kind of started on it. But yeah, I was, I feel sad.
- 1:03:19I don't know. I thought Carrie Coon was giving
- 1:03:21a a master class in acting. I thought, I mean, actually it
- 1:03:25was a bit over the top, which I loved.
- 1:03:27But that's how Missus Russell would respond.
- 1:03:30And. Yeah, I was.
- 1:03:31I was disappointed in all parties, including Mr. Russell,
- 1:03:35for just being like, oh, well, that happened.
- 1:03:37I'm like, but you didn't say anything.
- 1:03:40Communication is key, Elizabeth. It absolutely is.
- 1:03:44I have to say I was also disappointed in him for that.
- 1:03:47I feel like after she had like already left I feel like he
- 1:03:52should have been like hey I don't know if it was right or
- 1:03:55wrong of me to keep this until now but now that she is no
- 1:03:58longer here this happened. And like, I feel like Missus
- 1:04:04Russell still would have been pissed about it, but I don't
- 1:04:06think she would have been so angry.
- 1:04:09She still would have been pissed.
- 1:04:10I actually don't see a a scenario where she's not pissed.
- 1:04:16I think he yeah, I think he would have had to have gone
- 1:04:19directly from that room to her room.
- 1:04:21And then like we got to fire your maid.
- 1:04:23This just. Happened.
- 1:04:24Yeah, that is the only way. And that was not gonna happen.
- 1:04:30So anyways, OK, next scandal, Armstrong and return of Miss
- 1:04:36Scott. Yes, I OK, I was so happy that
- 1:04:42Miss Scott came back because the home is just more fun with her
- 1:04:49in it. Yeah.
- 1:04:51Armstrong, though, is still just like Misses Ryan.
- 1:04:55Just get like, I get why she gives her so many chances, but
- 1:05:00I'm also like, come on, Like, yeah, she's not a very good
- 1:05:04person. The HR department needs to be
- 1:05:08littered with complaints because Armstrong still has not learned
- 1:05:12her lesson. She's still a jerk all the time,
- 1:05:15a racist jerk all the time, but just kind of deals with it.
- 1:05:20And I feel like she just kind of gets by, you know, free without
- 1:05:24anyone, really. It's like, oh, it's just
- 1:05:26Armstrong being Armstrong. Like, no, but Agnes, you got to
- 1:05:29put a stop to this. I'm just saying I don't care if
- 1:05:32she starts getting all wimpery and sad every time.
- 1:05:35It's like, oh, I'm going to lose my house, get a job somewhere
- 1:05:39else. Sorry.
- 1:05:41Yeah, them's were the time, unfortunately.
- 1:05:47But yeah, I was, I was annoyed. I was like, seriously, we're
- 1:05:51going to have to like, deal with Armstrong still.
- 1:05:53Like, come on. And of course, Miss Scott is
- 1:05:57like the absolute nicest and even like kind of stands up for
- 1:06:00Armstrong multiple times. I'm just a little brother.
- 1:06:03Like she is such a good person and Armstrong doesn't deserve
- 1:06:08it. She doesn't, but maybe she'll
- 1:06:12learn her lesson in season three.
- 1:06:14But if we're being real, probably season 5.
- 1:06:16But you might just say, OK, this next one, I know you're going to
- 1:06:21have lots to say. Marion Brooks being engaged to
- 1:06:25Daschle. She's she's really like falling
- 1:06:30back right now. I could see the trauma of
- 1:06:32flooding back over her face again.
- 1:06:34I I felt so bad for Marion. So so OK, so since day one,
- 1:06:44since season one, episode one. I have.
- 1:06:48Been been like her and Larry have to get together.
- 1:06:53They have to and when Dashiell came along, it really I had
- 1:06:59really had conflicted feelings because I.
- 1:07:03Was falling for it. I was like, this is a good man,
- 1:07:07like for the time, this is a good man and he like he like
- 1:07:11pulls you the same in season one with the other guy that ended up
- 1:07:15being trash. Like he like pulls you in and
- 1:07:18pulls you in and then he he's at dinner calling her by his dead
- 1:07:23wife's name and being like, of course you'll give up your
- 1:07:27passions when you're married. Why would you have any?
- 1:07:31A good thing you'll never work another day in your life.
- 1:07:34Yeah, and Mary is just like, look over.
- 1:07:36Agnes So she has her thumbs up just like, yeah.
- 1:07:40I love it because Agnes is like, yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 1:07:42And then he calls her the wrong name and Agnes is like, oh, you
- 1:07:48can visibly see Agnes be like, Oh no.
- 1:07:52Oh, no, not again. Yeah, I actually was never a fan
- 1:07:58of Nashville. I I just felt like it was way
- 1:08:02too pushy the entire time with like, being like, oh, hang out
- 1:08:06with my daughter and like, you know, she needs a motherly
- 1:08:09figure. And I don't know, it just felt
- 1:08:11weird for me the entire time. So I actually was never on
- 1:08:15board. And I was very relieved to see
- 1:08:17it didn't carry on hopefully until season three, 'cause I
- 1:08:20just, he gave me a weird vibes from the beginning.
- 1:08:22And I just think Mary needs to know, needs to do what we all
- 1:08:26know needs to happen, which is Mary Larry.
- 1:08:30Yeah, absolutely. I didn't find it that strange,
- 1:08:36although I've watched like so, so many like TV shows and movies
- 1:08:40and like books and stuff like within this time period are
- 1:08:43similar ones. So I'm like the fact that like a
- 1:08:48handsome guy widowed with a daughter finds like another
- 1:08:52attractive young woman and is just like, Oh yeah, you'll
- 1:08:57you'll be Good Wife material and just pursues that very quickly.
- 1:09:01I'm like, yeah, yeah, it happens.
- 1:09:04I mean, it's typical. I mean, I thought for sure I was
- 1:09:07like, yeah, I guess we're gonna just wrap this up and get
- 1:09:09married and maybe the finale will be a wedding episode.
- 1:09:12Thank God it didn't. But.
- 1:09:13I know I was a little afraid that like they'd get married and
- 1:09:18then she'd realize or like Larry would realize, like, Oh my gosh,
- 1:09:22I love, I love my next door neighbor.
- 1:09:25Yeah, again, if Susan Blaine is no longer available, then I
- 1:09:28think Larry and Mary Anita get together.
- 1:09:31Oh yeah, I think, I think Susan's clearly off the table.
- 1:09:35Did you see Larry at the engagement when he drops down to
- 1:09:39one knee? Did you see Larry's face?
- 1:09:42He was not happy about it, not thrilled.
- 1:09:44No, no. And I was making the same face,
- 1:09:47so I was clenching my fist. Yeah.
- 1:09:52Oh OK. Also, and Ada's storyline this
- 1:09:56season was so bittersweet. It was beautiful.
- 1:09:59I loved watching it. At first, I was like, I don't
- 1:10:01know about this, But then just once you, like, see them get
- 1:10:04married, of course. Oh, when Agnes walks in during a
- 1:10:08wedding and sits down, I was a complete wreck.
- 1:10:11I was sobbing. Yeah, it was so nice.
- 1:10:14I did feel like the storyline was a little rushed.
- 1:10:17I get they were like, we don't know if we're moving into a
- 1:10:19season three. We're going to wrap this up real
- 1:10:21quickly. That's fine, but I just felt
- 1:10:24like a little rushed. But I still loved it.
- 1:10:26It was beautiful and I just wish Aunt Ada could be happy and I
- 1:10:30wish it lasted more than two or three episodes.
- 1:10:33Yeah, I I almost wish they had started this like the end of
- 1:10:38last season. Yeah.
- 1:10:40And just like had them get like serious and this season like
- 1:10:44that would have been cute. Let the let the love sauce
- 1:10:47simmer a little bit. Yeah, but it was very nice.
- 1:10:51She got what she always wanted in life.
- 1:10:54And when Agnes is like sitting or not, Yeah, Agnes, when Agnes
- 1:10:58is sitting by his, like, sick bed and she's like, she only has
- 1:11:03to think of you on this earth to, like, feel warmed and loved.
- 1:11:07I'm like, Agnes, this is. I was.
- 1:11:11Oh man, I was crying. Yeah, I'm going to get emotional
- 1:11:15nails. And then for the final two
- 1:11:18scandals, which I was saving for last because they kind of
- 1:11:21controlled this this season. First, the Met versus the
- 1:11:26Academy. We have Missus Russell versus
- 1:11:29Missus Astor. The perfect, perfect
- 1:11:32battleground. Elizabeth, which side were you
- 1:11:35on? The Met.
- 1:11:38Oh, OK. The Met, like clearly everyone
- 1:11:43at The Academy Is too stuffy. Mm hmm.
- 1:11:46Yeah. I want to be where Mrs. Russell
- 1:11:48is, quite frankly. Yeah, I, it was a no brainer for
- 1:11:52me. I'd be at the Met.
- 1:11:54I, I mean, I would have been those one of those people that
- 1:11:56Mrs. Astor didn't like because I was always with Mrs. Russell.
- 1:12:01However, I still would like a night at the Academy.
- 1:12:03I mean, can I not go to both? I guess probably not, but I
- 1:12:07would like to. If I was living there I
- 1:12:10definitely would have been old money.
- 1:12:12Also got a booth at the Met and been like well now I have
- 1:12:16options. Yeah, you would be old money.
- 1:12:20That's so funny. Oh, you know, I'd be old money,
- 1:12:22Yeah. That's funny.
- 1:12:29I wouldn't keep that from letting me have fun with the new
- 1:12:31money people though. Right.
- 1:12:33And I just love Missus Astor too.
- 1:12:35I mean, she is one of my favorite characters that just,
- 1:12:38you know, we have to have, like we said earlier, we'd like a
- 1:12:41good conflict. OK, It's low stakes conflict.
- 1:12:44We could have our favorite favorites fight against each
- 1:12:46other. So I was always with Missus
- 1:12:49Russell. Oh, same.
- 1:12:52And I just find myself standing by Mrs. Russell until we get to
- 1:12:55our last scandal of our quick fire scandal round Elizabeth.
- 1:13:00What is going on with Mrs. Russell's daughter and the Duke?
- 1:13:05The Duke or the Prince? Spencer, have you ever heard of
- 1:13:08an American Dollar Princess? So you and I have already had
- 1:13:14this conversation at length behind the scenes, but please
- 1:13:17remind our audience because I know you're very passionate
- 1:13:20about this. So during the Gilded Age it was
- 1:13:25a lot of the British aristocracy was actually losing their money
- 1:13:31and could not afford their estates so they were sending
- 1:13:35their sons over to America to marry all the rich heiresses and
- 1:13:41the heiresses families wanted the prestige of old European and
- 1:13:48like British titles so they were literally selling off their
- 1:13:53daughters. And.
- 1:13:56Some of them had OK lives. I think Win, Winston Churchill's
- 1:14:01mother was one of these people and she had like an OK life.
- 1:14:05A lot of them had very sad lives 'cause they basically were just
- 1:14:08taken to England to have babies and have all their money be
- 1:14:14taken by their husbands. No, that's so sad.
- 1:14:19I don't want Gladys to be one of these.
- 1:14:21What did he call them, $1,000,000 babies?
- 1:14:23American dollar Princess. Oh right, that would make me so
- 1:14:28sad. I, I I love Gladys and she
- 1:14:34doesn't deserve this, but we know damn well what Missus
- 1:14:37Russell is doing. Here's the thing, though.
- 1:14:39OK, here's the thing though, Spencer.
- 1:14:42Remember when her father promised her he would support
- 1:14:46her choice for marriage no matter what, so long as she
- 1:14:50didn't marry Oscar? Yeah, which fair.
- 1:14:55Fair. So I think, 'cause that in the
- 1:14:58very last scene, Mr. Russell realizes something isn't right.
- 1:15:03He said, wait a minute, why is that man here?
- 1:15:06What did you do 'cause I I checked the checking account and
- 1:15:09no money was withdrawn. Yeah, and he's like he's calling
- 1:15:13us by our names. Excuse me, what?
- 1:15:17Yeah. And so he knows something's
- 1:15:19going on. Clearly, Gladys doesn't care
- 1:15:22about this man in the slightest. She's paying no attention to
- 1:15:25him. She's I, I dare to say, a little
- 1:15:28clueless at this moment. And everyone's and.
- 1:15:31And she's dressed like a who? Yeah.
- 1:15:33How the Grinch stole Christmas. I.
- 1:15:37She. Looked lovely, but this was that
- 1:15:39was a lot. She looks amazing.
- 1:15:42The costume's amazing, but the hairstyle's giving Cindy Lou.
- 1:15:45Who? Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
- 1:15:49Elizabeth with that, that was our not so quick fire round of
- 1:15:53the Gilded Age scandal from season 2.
- 1:15:58If I had a good time, if I had more tea, we could go on and on
- 1:16:02and on, but we still have to play our favorite game.
- 1:16:05Are you ready, Elizabeth? Yes.
- 1:16:08Let's do it, Daniel. The one costume to rule them
- 1:16:13all. OK, Elizabeth, Well, I think my
- 1:16:21one costume to rule them all should be of no surprise to you.
- 1:16:26It is of course, Missus Russell's opera gown she wears
- 1:16:31to the Met in the finale episode.
- 1:16:34She is just a vision. This trailing gown.
- 1:16:39I love the teal color that kind of looks like the the darker
- 1:16:43blue on top of it kind of looks like a iron rod fence.
- 1:16:47It's just, I mean, the hair, the tiara, the jewelry, everything
- 1:16:51about it to me is flawless. And I just love that moment
- 1:16:54where she walks into her box and everyone just kind of stands and
- 1:16:58looks at her and it's just like, oh, the queen is here, you know,
- 1:17:02like that. That's what I'm talking about.
- 1:17:04This is what I wanted. Even if she just sold her
- 1:17:07daughter off to this Prince slash Duke.
- 1:17:11I'm, I don't know, I gotta say, I'm just, I'm still Mrs.
- 1:17:15Russell's going to have to try a lot harder than that to not have
- 1:17:17me on her side. You're still rooting for her.
- 1:17:20You're still rooting for her. Yeah, that is boring to loyalty.
- 1:17:24Yeah, I I understand. I understand.
- 1:17:29I do love this look as well. It is gorgeous.
- 1:17:32It is beautiful and just so of the time.
- 1:17:36I really love it and I think my one costume to roll them off
- 1:17:42will also not be a surprise. I love Aunt Aida's wedding look.
- 1:17:49It's so her. It's so especially when she gets
- 1:17:52like the veil on and like she just looks like it's simple, but
- 1:17:59in in the cathedral, she just like is the center of attention,
- 1:18:04like in this very subtle, beautiful way.
- 1:18:09And it's just like it chokes you up.
- 1:18:12Like you're like, oh, like she, this is literally like
- 1:18:15everything she wanted from her life in this moment.
- 1:18:19And it's really beautiful. It's so beautiful.
- 1:18:22I remember the first time I saw it, I was kind of taken aback.
- 1:18:24I was like, oh, is she wearing blue as a wedding dress?
- 1:18:27But then I'm like, she has such a vibrant personality, such a
- 1:18:30vibrant soul. It just, it works.
- 1:18:33It's just beautiful. And I know it also is like, you
- 1:18:35know, Periodacorate too. And it just everything about it
- 1:18:38just feels right. And you can't help but just
- 1:18:41smile. So I agree with you.
- 1:18:43That's a good one. Costume rule them all.
- 1:18:45And also, dare I say, saw it coming.
- 1:18:47Yeah, Elizabeth, what a fun episode.
- 1:18:53I can't believe it's finally over.
- 1:18:55I mean, we've been talking about the Gilded Age season 2 for a
- 1:18:57while, and I guess they'll probably be another season or
- 1:19:01two before we talk about Gilded Age season three.
- 1:19:03But let me just tell you, it's coming.
- 1:19:06Consider it recorded because we will be there when you all need
- 1:19:09us to talk about the Gilded Age. Absolutely.
- 1:19:13I love this season, and if you want to tell us what you loved
- 1:19:16about this season, you can leave a voicemail at 626-515-1826,
- 1:19:25leave a little message for us, or you could e-mail us at
- 1:19:28theartofcostume@gmail.com. Well, Elizabeth, for our next
- 1:19:33episode, we are really changing the pace here 'cause we are
- 1:19:38starting our annual series that we coined a few seasons ago and
- 1:19:44we've just kept with it every summer.
- 1:19:45Now we are starting what? Girls Summer.
- 1:19:53And we're starting it with probably perhaps one of the
- 1:19:56hottest hot girls summer movies of the year.
- 1:19:59And I mean quite literally, because it looks very hot.
- 1:20:02In this movie. We're talking about Furious.
- 1:20:05I'm excited. I have not seen this yet.
- 1:20:08I'm so excited to go see it. I am really, really excited for
- 1:20:14the movie and for this season, this hot girl summer season.
- 1:20:18Yeah, we have a great line of coming.
- 1:20:19I also have not seen Furiosa, but I know it just came out a
- 1:20:22couple days ago. I've read a couple reviews here
- 1:20:25and there. So I'm just going to say looking
- 1:20:27forward to seeing it for myself and talking about the costumes
- 1:20:30because we know that they were done by Jenny Bevin once again
- 1:20:34and Jenny Bevin does not miss. If you want more of our show,
- 1:20:39don't forget to go to youtube.com slash at the Art of
- 1:20:42Costume where you could see our episodes on YouTube coming out
- 1:20:46every Wednesday. We also post some shorts as
- 1:20:49well. You can follow us on Instagram
- 1:20:51at the Art of Costume pod TikTok at The Art of Costume.
- 1:20:55If you want to head over to our merch store, get yourself AT
- 1:20:58shirt to prepare yourself for hot girl summer, go to
- 1:21:01theartofcostume.com/PODstore and as always, leave us a 5 star
- 1:21:06text review on Apple Podcast and or write us on Spotify.
- 1:21:11It really does help us get noticed.
- 1:21:13Just whatever you gotta do. Just five stars really makes us
- 1:21:15feel nice and warm on the inside 5.
- 1:21:17Stars comment on somebody's thighs.
- 1:21:19I don't know. Yeah, yeah.
- 1:21:24If you can rewrite that comment but in the review.
- 1:21:28Section. We'd really appreciate that,
- 1:21:32Elizabeth. I look forward to riding through
- 1:21:35the deserts of whatever universe Mad Max takes place in a
- 1:21:40Furiosa, and look forward to talking to you soon.
- 1:21:44I can't wait to talk about this with you.
- 1:21:47Everybody have a fantastic week. The Art of Costume podcast is
- 1:21:55hosted and produced by Elizabeth Joy Glass and Spencer Williams.
- 1:22:01Our audio engineering and editing is done by Dan White.
- 1:22:05Follow us on TikTok at The Art of Costume and Instagram at the
- 1:22:10Art of Costume Pod. If you want to support the show,
- 1:22:13go to theartofcostume.com/pod store.
- 1:22:18For more podcast updates, costume reviews, deep dives and
- 1:22:23interviews, go to theartofcostume.com, A blog
- 1:22:28dedicated to highlighting the best in costume design.