Latest / Majapahit: The Empire That Once Ruled Indonesia — Fexingo History / Majapahit's Trowulan: The Lost City of an Empire
Transcript
- Lucas: So we've talked a lot about Majapahit's politics, its wars, its famous figures — but we haven't really sat down and walked through its capital, Trowulan. And for me, that's where the empire really comes to life. Luna: What do we actually know about the city itself? Lucas: Quite a lot, actually, though it's all pieced together from archaeology and a few texts. The Negarakertagama, written by Mpu Prapanca in 1365, describes a sprawling city with walled compounds, brick streets, and a canal system. But the poet was writing in a praise tradition, so we have to weigh his words against what's been dug up. Luna: And what have they dug up? Lucas: Hundreds of thousands of brick fragments, for one. Trowulan was a city of red brick — not stone, like the Hindu temples of Central Java. The bricks were often laid without mortar, just stacked and fitted. And the scale is stunning: the site covers about 11 by 9 kilometers. There's a massive man-made lake, the Segaran, which is thought to have been a reservoir or a ceremonial pool. And there are gateways like Candi Bajang Ratu, a tall, slender brick structure that probably marked the entrance to a royal compound. Lucas: One of the most fascinating finds is Candi Tikus — literally 'Rat Temple' — which was actually a bathing pool. It's a sunken structure with a central shrine that once spouted water. The name 'Tikus' comes from local legend, but archaeologists think it was part of the palace's water management system. And that system was impressive: there were channels, dams, and even a network of clay pipes. Luna: So they had advanced hydraulic engineering? Lucas: Absolutely. And it's not just for show. The Brantas River flows nearby, and the area is prone to flooding. The canals likely helped control water and irrigate rice fields. The Negarakertagama mentions a 'banyan tree park' and a 'market street' — it paints a picture of a lively, well-organized city. But here's the thing: we still don't know exactly where the main palace was. The site is huge, and much of it is buried under modern settlements. Luna: That must frustrate archaeologists. Lucas: It does, but it also keeps the mystery alive. The Chinese account in the Ming Shilu, from the early 15th century, describes Trowulan as having thick walls and a bustling population. Zheng He's fleet visited the area, and some scholars think the Chinese may have even influenced the brick technology. But that's debated. Luna: What about daily life? What did people eat, what did they do? Lucas: From the Negarakertagama and from excavations, we know there was a thriving market. Rice was the staple, of course, but also fish from the river and the sea. There were pigs, chickens, and cattle. And Majapahit was a major producer of spices like cloves and nutmeg — they weren't just for local use, they were traded as far as China and India. Lucas: The city also had artisans: metalworkers, potters, weavers. We've found molds for bronze and iron, and thousands of pottery shards, some imported from as far as Vietnam and Thailand. And of course, there were the keris makers, the empu, who worked in special compounds. Luna: So it was a real cosmopolitan hub. Lucas: Exactly. And it wasn't just Javanese — there were Chinese, Indian, Malay, and even Persian traders. The Negarakertagama mentions a place called 'Kampung Cina' — a Chinese quarter. So Trowulan was a melting pot, long before the term was fashionable. Lucas: Now, one of the big questions is: what happened to it? We know the empire declined after the Paregreg civil war in the early 15th century. But Trowulan wasn't abandoned overnight. There's evidence that parts of the city were still inhabited into the 16th century, when the Portuguese arrived. But eventually, the capital shifted to Demak, and Trowulan was left to the jungle. Luna: Was it sacked? Or just gradually emptied? Lucas: A bit of both. The Paregreg war caused destruction, and some areas show signs of burning. But the bigger factor was probably the shift in trade routes. As Malacca rose, the center of gravity moved west, and Trowulan's inland location became less strategic. By the time the Dutch arrived, it was just a scatter of ruins. Lucas: Today, Trowulan is a UNESCO World Heritage tentative site, and there's a museum there with many of the artifacts. But it's also under threat — from encroaching development, from agriculture, and from looting. So there's a real urgency to preserve what remains. Luna: It's amazing that so much survived at all, given the tropical climate. Lucas: It is. The brick actually holds up pretty well in the dry season, but the wet season takes its toll. And that's part of why we talk about these things — to keep the history alive, to keep people interested. And if you've been enjoying these conversations, and you want to support the show staying ad-free, there's a simple way. We don't run ads because we think history should be for everyone, not just people who can skip through commercials. So if that matters to you, you can find us at buy me a coffee dot com slash fexingo. It's completely optional, but it helps us keep digging into stories like this. Luna: And we really appreciate those who do. It's what keeps the podcast going. Lucas: Exactly. So back to Trowulan — one last thing that always strikes me. In 2010, a farmer digging a fishpond uncovered a hoard of gold and silver jewelry, along with a bronze Buddha statue. That kind of discovery reminds us that there's still so much under the surface. Trowulan isn't just a ruin — it's a living archaeological site that still has secrets to reveal. Luna: Maybe one day they'll find the palace. Lucas: I hope so. And when they do, we'll have to do another episode.