Latest / Chateau and Country Life in France / 17 - Chateau and Country Life in France by Mary King Waddington
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- 0:00Speaker 1: Section seventeen of Chateau and country Life in France. This
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- 0:10Speaker 1: LibriVox dot org. Recording by Alex Foster www dot Alex
- 0:15Speaker 1: Foster dot me dot Duque. Chateau and Country Life in
- 0:19Speaker 1: France by Mary King Waddington, Chapter ten, Norman Chateau. We
- 0:26Speaker 1: never remained all summer at our place. August was a
- 0:29Speaker 1: disagreeable month there. The woods were full of horse flies,
- 0:32Speaker 1: which made riding impossible. No nets could keep them off
- 0:35Speaker 1: the horses, who were almost maddened by the sting. They
- 0:38Speaker 1: were so persistent that we had to take them off
- 0:40Speaker 1: with a sharp stick. They stuck like leeches. We generally
- 0:44Speaker 1: went to the sea, almost always to the Norman coast,
- 0:47Speaker 1: establishing ourselves in a villa, sometimes at do'u Ville, sometimes
- 0:51Speaker 1: at Villere, and making excursions all over the country. Some
- 0:55Speaker 1: of the old Norman chateau are charming, particularly those which
- 0:59Speaker 1: have remained just as the they were before the revolution,
- 1:01Speaker 1: but of course there are not many of these. When
- 1:04Speaker 1: the young ones succeed, there is always a tendency to
- 1:06Speaker 1: modify and change, and is not easy to mix the elaborate,
- 1:10Speaker 1: luxurious furniture of our times with the stiff, old fashioned
- 1:13Speaker 1: chairs and sofas one finds in the old French houses.
- 1:15Speaker 1: Merely to look at them one understands why our grandfathers
- 1:18Speaker 1: and grandmothers always sat upright. One of the most interesting
- 1:22Speaker 1: of the Norman chateau is Abondon, in the department of
- 1:25Speaker 1: the Urre Loire, belonging until very recently to the Valembrosa family.
- 1:29Speaker 1: It belonged originally to Ladouches de Torselle, guvarnand de senfand
- 1:33Speaker 1: de France, children of Luisse and Marie Antoinette. After the
- 1:38Speaker 1: imprisonment of the royal family, Madame de Torselle retired to
- 1:41Speaker 1: her chateau d'a Bondon and remained there all through the revolution.
- 1:45Speaker 1: The village people and peasants a daughter, and she lived
- 1:47Speaker 1: there peacefully through all those terrible days. Neither chateau nor
- 1:51Speaker 1: park was damaged in any way, although she was known
- 1:54Speaker 1: to be a devoted friend and adherent of the unfortunate
- 1:57Speaker 1: royal family. A band of half drunken pains tried to
- 2:00Speaker 1: force their way into the park one day with the
- 2:03Speaker 1: intention of cutting down the trees and pillaging the chateau,
- 2:06Speaker 1: but all the villages instantly assembled, armed with pitchforks, rusty
- 2:09Speaker 1: old guns and stones, and dispersed the rabble. Abondon is
- 2:14Speaker 1: a Louis Cal's chateau, very large. Seventeen rooms are facade,
- 2:18Speaker 1: but simple in its architecture. The Duchess occupied a large
- 2:22Speaker 1: corner room on the ground floor, with four windows, the ceiling,
- 2:25Speaker 1: which was very high and walls covered with twel degouis.
- 2:28Speaker 1: An enormous bed a baldacin was trimmed with the same twile,
- 2:32Speaker 1: and each post had a great bunch of white feathers
- 2:34Speaker 1: on top. In eighteen eighty six, when one of my
- 2:37Speaker 1: friends were staying at Abondon, the hangings were the same
- 2:40Speaker 1: which had been there all through the revolution. She told
- 2:43Speaker 1: me she had never been so miserable as the first
- 2:45Speaker 1: time she stayed at the chateau. During the lifetime of
- 2:47Speaker 1: the late Duchesse de Vallenboza. They gave her the Duchesse
- 2:50Speaker 1: de Tourzelle's room, thinking it would interest her as a
- 2:53Speaker 1: chambre historique. She was already nervous at sleeping alone on
- 2:56Speaker 1: the ground floor, far from all the other inmates of
- 2:59Speaker 1: the chateau. The room was enormous, walls nearly five meters high.
- 3:03Speaker 1: The bed looked like an island in the midst of space.
- 3:06Speaker 1: There was very little furniture, and the white feathers on
- 3:09Speaker 1: the bed posts nodded and waved in the dim light.
- 3:12Speaker 1: She scarcely closed her eyes, could not reason with herself,
- 3:15Speaker 1: and asked the next morning to have something less magnificent
- 3:18Speaker 1: and more modern in all the bedrooms. The dressing tables
- 3:21Speaker 1: were covered with dantees de boche of the epoch note Bouche,
- 3:25Speaker 1: name of a village in Belgium where the lace is
- 3:27Speaker 1: made end of note. And all the mirrors and various
- 3:31Speaker 1: little boxes for powder rouge patches, and the hundred accessories
- 3:35Speaker 1: for a fine lady's toilette in those days were in
- 3:37Speaker 1: Vernie Martin absolutely intact. The drawing rooms still had their
- 3:42Speaker 1: old sink hangings, a white ground covered with wreaths of
- 3:45Speaker 1: flowers and birds with wonderful bright plumage, hand painted framed
- 3:49Speaker 1: in wood of two shades of light green. The big
- 3:52Speaker 1: drawing room was entirely paneled in wood of the same
- 3:55Speaker 1: light green. Most beautifully and delicately carved. These old boiserie
- 3:59Speaker 1: were all removed when the chateau was sold. After the
- 4:02Speaker 1: death of the Duches de Torseelles, the chateau went to
- 4:05Speaker 1: her niece, the Duchesse de Carches, who left it to
- 4:08Speaker 1: her niece, the Duches de Varrambrosa. A very rare instance
- 4:11Speaker 1: in France of a property descending directly through several generations
- 4:15Speaker 1: in the female line. It was sold by the Varrambrosa.
- 4:18Speaker 1: The old wood panels are in the Paris house of
- 4:21Speaker 1: a member of that family. The park was very large
- 4:23Speaker 1: and beautifully laid out, with the fine trees one seas
- 4:26Speaker 1: all over Normandy. Twenty years ago a seald spectacle en
- 4:30Speaker 1: Verdeure still existed in the park. The seats were all
- 4:33Speaker 1: in grass. The Coulis side scenes made in the trees
- 4:37Speaker 1: of the park, their boughs cut and trained into shape
- 4:40Speaker 1: to represent green walls, a marble group of allegorical figures
- 4:43Speaker 1: at the back. It was most carefully preserved. The seats
- 4:48Speaker 1: of the amphitheater looked like green velvet, and the trees
- 4:50Speaker 1: were always cut in the same curious shapes. It seemed
- 4:53Speaker 1: quite a fitting part of the fine old place, with
- 4:56Speaker 1: its memories of past fete and splendors. Before the whirl
- 4:59Speaker 1: wind of liberty and equality swept over the country. Many
- 5:03Speaker 1: of the chateau are changing hands. The majirat aunt ai
- 5:07Speaker 1: doesn't exist in France, and as the fortunes must always
- 5:11Speaker 1: be divided among the children, it becomes more and more
- 5:13Speaker 1: difficult to keep up the large places. Life gets dearer
- 5:17Speaker 1: every day, fortunes don't increase. Very few young frenchmen of
- 5:21Speaker 1: the upper classes do anything. The only way of keeping
- 5:24Speaker 1: up the big places is by making a rich marriage
- 5:26Speaker 1: the daughter of a rich banker or industrial or an American.
- 5:30Speaker 1: Our cousins, Conte Contes Jill have a pretty old place,
- 5:34Speaker 1: not very far from Ville sur Mer, where we went
- 5:37Speaker 1: sometimes for sea bathing. The house is an ordinary square
- 5:40Speaker 1: white stone building, a fine terrace with a flight of
- 5:42Speaker 1: steps leading down to the garden on one side. The
- 5:45Speaker 1: park is delightful, many splendid old trees. Until a few
- 5:49Speaker 1: years ago there were still some that dated since Louis Catars,
- 5:52Speaker 1: the last one of that age, a fine oak with
- 5:55Speaker 1: wide spreading branches, died about two years ago. But they
- 5:58Speaker 1: cannot make up their minds to cut it down. I
- 6:01Speaker 1: advise them to leave the trunk standing. I think by
- 6:03Speaker 1: degrees the branches will fall, as they are quite dead.
- 6:06Speaker 1: Cover it with ivy or a vine of some kind,
- 6:09Speaker 1: and put a notice on it of the age of
- 6:11Speaker 1: the tree. The house stands high, and they have splendid views.
- 6:16Speaker 1: On one side from the terrace, a great expanse of
- 6:18Speaker 1: green valley looking towards Valaise. On the other the sea,
- 6:22Speaker 1: a beautiful blue summer sea. When we were there the
- 6:25Speaker 1: other day we went over from Villere to breakfast. It
- 6:29Speaker 1: was late in the season, the end of September, one
- 6:32Speaker 1: of those bright days one sometimes has in September, when
- 6:35Speaker 1: summer still lingers and the sun gives beautiful mellow tints
- 6:37Speaker 1: to everything without being strong enough to make one feel
- 6:40Speaker 1: the heat. The road was lovely all the way, particularly
- 6:43Speaker 1: after we turned off the high road at the top
- 6:45Speaker 1: of the Houlgate Hill. We went through countless little Norman lanes,
- 6:49Speaker 1: quite narrow, sometimes between the high green banks with a
- 6:52Speaker 1: hedge on the top, and the trees meeting over our heads,
- 6:56Speaker 1: so narrow that I wondered what would happen if we
- 6:58Speaker 1: met another auto left the sea behind us and plunged
- 7:01Speaker 1: into the lovely green valley that runs along the back
- 7:03Speaker 1: of the coast line. We came suddenly on the gates
- 7:06Speaker 1: of the chateau, rather a sharp turn. There was a
- 7:09Speaker 1: broad avenue with fine trees leading up to the house.
- 7:12Speaker 1: On one side meadows fenced off with white wooden palings
- 7:15Speaker 1: where the horses and cows were grazing, a pretty lawn
- 7:17Speaker 1: before the house with beds of pegonias, and all along
- 7:21Speaker 1: the front high raised borders of red geranium, which looked
- 7:23Speaker 1: very well against the greystone. We found a family party,
- 7:28Speaker 1: Comte and Comtesdi, their daughter and a governess. We went
- 7:31Speaker 1: upstairs a nice wooden staircase with broad, shallow steps, to
- 7:35Speaker 1: an end room with a beautiful view over the park,
- 7:38Speaker 1: where we got out of all the wraps, veils and
- 7:40Speaker 1: glasses that one must have in an open auto if
- 7:42Speaker 1: one wishes to look respectable when one arrives, and went
- 7:45Speaker 1: down once to the hall where the family was waiting.
- 7:48Speaker 1: The dining room was large and light, high wide windows
- 7:52Speaker 1: and beautiful trees wherever one looked. The decoration of the
- 7:55Speaker 1: room was rather curious. The des descend, like many Norman
- 7:59Speaker 1: family from William the Conqueror, and there are English coats
- 8:02Speaker 1: of arms on some of the shields on the walls,
- 8:05Speaker 1: a band which looks like fresco but really is painted
- 8:07Speaker 1: on linen, very cleverly arranged with some composition that makes
- 8:11Speaker 1: it look like the wall runs straight around the room,
- 8:13Speaker 1: with all sorts of curious figures soldiers, horses, and boats
- 8:17Speaker 1: copied exactly from the famous bayoutapestries. The most striking episodes
- 8:22Speaker 1: the departure of the conqueror from d'v the embarkation of
- 8:25Speaker 1: his army, the cavalry, most extraordinarily long, queer shaped horses
- 8:29Speaker 1: with faces like people, the death of Harold, the fighting
- 8:33Speaker 1: Bishop Udou, brother of the conqueror, who couldn't carry a
- 8:36Speaker 1: lance but had a good stout stick, which apparently did
- 8:39Speaker 1: good service as various saxons were flying horizontally through the
- 8:41Speaker 1: air as he and his steed advanced. One wonders at
- 8:45Speaker 1: the imagination which could have produced such extraordinary figures. Has
- 8:48Speaker 1: certainly no men or beasts at any period of time
- 8:51Speaker 1: could have looked like those. The ships were less striking,
- 8:54Speaker 1: had rather more semblance of boats. However, the effect with
- 8:58Speaker 1: all the bright colouring is very good and quite in
- 9:00Speaker 1: harmony with this part of the country, where everything teems
- 9:03Speaker 1: with legends and traditions, of the Great Duke. They see
- 9:06Speaker 1: Feles where he was born from their terrace. Sometimes we didn't,
- 9:10Speaker 1: for though the day was beautiful, there was slight haze
- 9:13Speaker 1: which made the far off landscapes only a blue line.
- 9:16Speaker 1: After breakfast we went for a walk in the park.
- 9:19Speaker 1: They have arranged it very well, with rustic bridges and
- 9:21Speaker 1: seats wherever the view was particularly fine. We saw a
- 9:25Speaker 1: nice old red brick house near the farm, which was
- 9:27Speaker 1: the manoir where the dowager Countess lives now. She made
- 9:31Speaker 1: over the chateau to her son in her lifetime, on
- 9:33Speaker 1: condition that he would keep it up and arrange it,
- 9:36Speaker 1: which he has done very well. We made the tour
- 9:38Speaker 1: of the park, passing a pretty lodge with roses and
- 9:41Speaker 1: creepers all over it, and Marie put upon a sign.
- 9:45Speaker 1: D is mayor of his little village and finds it
- 9:47Speaker 1: convenient to have the Mary at his own gate. We
- 9:50Speaker 1: rested a little in the drawing room before going back,
- 9:53Speaker 1: and he showed us various portraits and miniatures of his family,
- 9:55Speaker 1: which were most interesting. Some of the miniatures are exactly
- 9:59Speaker 1: like one we had have a father of that period,
- 10:01Speaker 1: with the high stock and tight buttoned coat. The light
- 10:04Speaker 1: was lovely, so soft and warm in the drawing room,
- 10:07Speaker 1: and as there were no lace curtains or vitrages, and
- 10:10Speaker 1: the silk curtains were drawn back from the high plate
- 10:12Speaker 1: glass windows, we seemed to be sitting in the park
- 10:14Speaker 1: under the trees. They gave us tea and the good
- 10:17Speaker 1: little cakes. Saint Pierre, a sort of sables for which
- 10:20Speaker 1: all the coast is famous. The drive home was enchanting,
- 10:25Speaker 1: with a lovely view from the top of the hill,
- 10:27Speaker 1: a beautiful blue sea at our feet. In the turrets
- 10:29Speaker 1: and pointed roofs of the ville houses, taking every possible
- 10:32Speaker 1: color from the sunset clouds. We went back once more
- 10:37Speaker 1: to a te d'arsan given for her seventeen year old daughter.
- 10:40Speaker 1: It was a lovely afternoon and the place looked charming,
- 10:43Speaker 1: the gates open, carriages and autos arriving in every direction.
- 10:47Speaker 1: People came from a great distance, as with the autos,
- 10:49Speaker 1: no one hesitates to undertake a drive of a hundred kilometers.
- 10:53Speaker 1: The young people danced in the drawing room. Madame Yll
- 10:56Speaker 1: had taken out all the furniture, and the parents and
- 10:58Speaker 1: older people sat about on the terrace, where there were
- 11:00Speaker 1: plenty of seats and little tea tables. The dining room,
- 11:03Speaker 1: with an abundant buffet, was always full. One arrived at
- 11:07Speaker 1: a fine appetite after whirling for two or three hours
- 11:09Speaker 1: through the keen salt airs. The girls all look charming.
- 11:12Speaker 1: The white dresses, bright sashes and big picture hats are
- 11:15Speaker 1: so becoming. They were dancing hard when we left about
- 11:19Speaker 1: half past six, and it was a pretty sight as
- 11:21Speaker 1: we looked back from the gates, long lines of sunlight
- 11:24Speaker 1: wavering over the grass, figures in white flittering through the trees,
- 11:28Speaker 1: distant strains of music, and what was less agreeable, the
- 11:32Speaker 1: strident sound of a sirenne on some of the autos.
- 11:34Speaker 1: They are detestable things. We were very comfortable at Villere,
- 11:39Speaker 1: in a nice clean house looking on the sea, with
- 11:41Speaker 1: broad balconies at every story, where we put sofas and
- 11:44Speaker 1: tables and green blinds, using them as extra salon. We
- 11:48Speaker 1: were never in the house except to eat and sleep.
- 11:50Speaker 1: Nothing is more characteristic of the French, particularly in the bourgeoisie,
- 11:54Speaker 1: than the thorough way in which they'd do their month
- 11:57Speaker 1: at the sea shore. They generally come for the month
- 11:59Speaker 1: of all August holidays have begun, and business of all
- 12:02Speaker 1: kinds is slack. Our plage was really a curiosity. There
- 12:07Speaker 1: is a splendid stretch of sand beach. At low tide,
- 12:09Speaker 1: one can walk by the shore to Torrville or Uhlgate
- 12:12Speaker 1: on a perfectly firm, dry sand. There are hundreds of
- 12:15Speaker 1: cabins and tents striped red and white and umbrellas on
- 12:18Speaker 1: the beach, and all day long whole families sit there.
- 12:22Speaker 1: They all bathe, and a curious fashion at villere is
- 12:25Speaker 1: that you put on your bathing dress in your own
- 12:27Speaker 1: house over that of penwar, generally of red and white
- 12:30Speaker 1: striped cotton, and walk quite calmly through the streets to
- 12:33Speaker 1: the eteblisment. Some of the ladies and gentlemen of mature
- 12:37Speaker 1: years are not to their advantage when they can, if
- 12:39Speaker 1: they have houses with a terrace or garden, they take
- 12:42Speaker 1: their meals outside, and as soon as they have breakfasted
- 12:45Speaker 1: start again for the beach. When it is low tide,
- 12:48Speaker 1: they go shrimp fishing or walk about in the shallow
- 12:50Speaker 1: water looking for shells and seaweed. When it is high tide,
- 12:54Speaker 1: all sit at the door of their tents, sewing and
- 12:56Speaker 1: reading or talking. I mean, of course, the petit bo
- 12:59Speaker 1: rasi at other places on the coast, Dourville or Oolgate,
- 13:03Speaker 1: the life is like Newport or Dinarch or any other
- 13:06Speaker 1: fashionable sea side place. With automobiles, dinners, dressing, et cetera.
- 13:11Speaker 1: They get all of the sea air and out of
- 13:12Speaker 1: door life that they can crowd into. One month, one
- 13:16Speaker 1: lady said to me, one day I can't bathe, but
- 13:18Speaker 1: I take a bound there. Every day I sit on
- 13:21Speaker 1: the rocks as far out in the water as I can.
- 13:23Speaker 1: I take off my hat and my shoes and stockings.
- 13:26Speaker 1: There is a great clearing out always by the first
- 13:28Speaker 1: of September, and then the place was enchanting, bright, beautiful
- 13:32Speaker 1: September days one could still bathe the sun was so strong,
- 13:35Speaker 1: and the afternoons, with just a little chill in the air,
- 13:38Speaker 1: were delightful for walking and driving. There was a pretty
- 13:41Speaker 1: Norman farm just over the plage at the top of
- 13:44Speaker 1: the Ferleise, where we sometimes went for tea. They gave
- 13:47Speaker 1: us very good tea, milk and cider, and excellent bread
- 13:50Speaker 1: and butter and cheese. We sat out of doors in
- 13:52Speaker 1: an apple orchard at the little tables. All of the
- 13:55Speaker 1: beasts of the establishment in the same field, the chickens
- 13:58Speaker 1: and sheeps surrounded us were evidently accustomed to being fed,
- 14:02Speaker 1: but the horses, cows and calves kept quite to the
- 14:04Speaker 1: other end. We saw the girls milking the cows, which
- 14:07Speaker 1: of course interest the children immensely. We made some charming
- 14:11Speaker 1: excursions in the auto. Went once Saturday to Contes, such
- 14:15Speaker 1: a pretty road through little smiling villages, every house with
- 14:18Speaker 1: a garden, or if too close together to allow that,
- 14:20Speaker 1: there were pots of geraniums, the falling kind in the windows,
- 14:24Speaker 1: which made a red curtain dropping down over the walls.
- 14:27Speaker 1: We stopped at Lisieure, a quaint old Norman town with
- 14:30Speaker 1: a fine cathedral and curious houses with gables and towers.
- 14:34Speaker 1: One street most picturesque, very narrow, with wooden houses, their
- 14:38Speaker 1: projecting roofs coming so far over the street one could
- 14:41Speaker 1: hardly see the sky. In some places there were all
- 14:44Speaker 1: kinds of balconies and cornieces, most elaborately carved. The woods
- 14:48Speaker 1: so dark one could scarcely distinguish the original figures and devices.
- 14:52Speaker 1: But some of them were extraordinary dragons and enormous winged animals.
- 14:57Speaker 1: We did not linger very long, as we were in
- 14:59Speaker 1: our new auto. A Martini hill climber built in Switzerland,
- 15:02Speaker 1: and of course, like all automobilists, were anxious to make
- 15:05Speaker 1: as fast a run as possible between Villere and Kont.
- 15:09Speaker 1: The approach to Kant is not particularly interesting. The country
- 15:13Speaker 1: is flat, the road running through poplar bordered fields. One
- 15:16Speaker 1: does not see it at all until one gets quite near,
- 15:18Speaker 1: and then suddenly beautiful towers and steeples seem to rise
- 15:21Speaker 1: out of the green meadows. It was Saturday market day
- 15:24Speaker 1: and the town was crowded every description. A vehicle in
- 15:27Speaker 1: the main street and before the hotel, two enormous sixty
- 15:31Speaker 1: horse power Mercedes, farmers gigs and donkey cart with cheeses
- 15:34Speaker 1: and butter. A couple generally inside, the man with his
- 15:37Speaker 1: blue smock and broad brimmed hat, the woman with a high, clean,
- 15:40Speaker 1: stiff starched muslin cap, a knit shawl over her shoulders.
- 15:44Speaker 1: They were not in the least discomposed by the bustle,
- 15:46Speaker 1: and the automobiles never thought of getting out of the way,
- 15:49Speaker 1: jogged comfortably on keeping to their side of the road.
- 15:53Speaker 1: We left the auto at the hotel and found many
- 15:55Speaker 1: others in the courtyard and various friends. The De's had
- 15:58Speaker 1: come over from Grongeu their place. He is Corseil General
- 16:02Speaker 1: of Calvados, and market day in a provincial town is
- 16:05Speaker 1: an excellent occasion for seeing one's electors. There were also
- 16:09Speaker 1: some friends on Truvill d'O vill, most of them in auto's,
- 16:12Speaker 1: some in like carriages. We had tried to make a
- 16:14Speaker 1: rendezvoufety at the famous Pettitier who sends his cakes and
- 16:18Speaker 1: bonbon over half the department, but that was not very practical,
- 16:21Speaker 1: as they had all finished what they had to do
- 16:23Speaker 1: and we had not even begun our sight seeing. However,
- 16:26Speaker 1: Ye told us he would leave our names at the
- 16:28Speaker 1: tea room, a sort of club they have established over
- 16:30Speaker 1: at the Petititier, where we would be quieter and better
- 16:33Speaker 1: served than in the shop, which would certainly be crowded.
- 16:36Speaker 1: On Saturday afternoon, we walked about till we were dead tired.
- 16:41Speaker 1: Saint Pierre is a fine old Norman church with beautiful
- 16:44Speaker 1: tower and steeple. It stands fairly well in the place
- 16:46Speaker 1: Saint Pierre, but the houses are much too near. It
- 16:49Speaker 1: should have more space around it. There was a market
- 16:52Speaker 1: going on on the other side of the square, fruit
- 16:54Speaker 1: big apples and pears, flowers and fish being heaped up together.
- 16:58Speaker 1: The apples looked tempting, such bright red ones. We went
- 17:01Speaker 1: to the two Abbe, both of them quite beautiful. Saint
- 17:04Speaker 1: Etienne Abbeozam was built by William the Conqueror, who was
- 17:07Speaker 1: originally buried there. It is very grand, quite simple, but
- 17:12Speaker 1: splendid proportions, a fitting resting place for the great soldier, who, however,
- 17:16Speaker 1: was not allowed to sleep his last sleep undisturbed in
- 17:19Speaker 1: the city he loved so well. His tomb was desecrated
- 17:22Speaker 1: several times, and his remains lost in the work of destruction.
- 17:26Speaker 1: We went on to the Abbe or Dam, which is
- 17:28Speaker 1: very different, smaller, not nearly so simple. The facade is
- 17:32Speaker 1: very fine, with two square towers, most elaborately carved. The
- 17:35Speaker 1: steeples have long since disappeared, and there are richly ornamented
- 17:39Speaker 1: galleries and balustrades in the interior of the church, not
- 17:42Speaker 1: at all the high solemn vaulted isles of the Abbe Jozams.
- 17:46Speaker 1: It was founded by Queen Matilde, wife of William the Conqueror,
- 17:49Speaker 1: and she is buried there a perfectly simple tomb with
- 17:52Speaker 1: an inscription in Latin. There was at one time a
- 17:56Speaker 1: very handsome monument, but it was destroyed, like so many
- 17:58Speaker 1: others during the revolution, and the remains placed some years
- 18:01Speaker 1: after in the stone coffin where they now rest. We
- 18:05Speaker 1: hadn't time to see them. Many interesting things in the
- 18:07Speaker 1: churches and in the town, as it was getting late
- 18:09Speaker 1: and we wanted some tea before we started back. We
- 18:12Speaker 1: found our way to the Petitier quite easily, but certainly
- 18:15Speaker 1: couldn't have had any tea if d had not told
- 18:17Speaker 1: us to use his name and ask for the club room.
- 18:20Speaker 1: The little shop was crowded, people standing and making frantic
- 18:23Speaker 1: dashes into the kitchen for chocolate and muffins. The club
- 18:26Speaker 1: room upstairs was quite nice, painted white, a good glass
- 18:30Speaker 1: so that we could arrange our hair, a little one
- 18:32Speaker 1: or two tables, and we were attended to at once.
- 18:34Speaker 1: They brought us the speciality of the place, light hot
- 18:38Speaker 1: breoche with grated ham inside, very good and very indigestible.
- 18:43Speaker 1: We went home by a different road, but it looked
- 18:45Speaker 1: just like the other. Fewer little hamlets perhaps, and great
- 18:48Speaker 1: pasture fields filled with fine specimens of Norman dray horses
- 18:52Speaker 1: and mares, with long legged colts running alongside of them.
- 18:55Speaker 1: It was late when we got home. The lighthouses of
- 18:58Speaker 1: Rentfleur and Avres made a long golden streak stretching far
- 19:01Speaker 1: out to sea, and the great turning flashlight of Saint
- 19:04Speaker 1: Ares was quite dazzling. We went back over the same
- 19:08Speaker 1: ground two or three days later on our way to Bayeux.
- 19:11Speaker 1: The town is not particularly interesting, but the cathedral is
- 19:13Speaker 1: beautiful and in wonderful preservation. The columns are very grand,
- 19:17Speaker 1: every capital exquisitely carved, and no two alike. Our guide,
- 19:21Speaker 1: a very talkative person, unlike the generality of Norman peasants
- 19:25Speaker 1: who are usually taciturn, was very anxious to show us
- 19:28Speaker 1: each column in detail and explain all the really beautiful carving.
- 19:31Speaker 1: But we were rather hurried as some of the party
- 19:33Speaker 1: were going to launch at barbie Ville. Comte Foil Chateau.
- 19:37Speaker 1: On the same place as the cathedral is the Hotel
- 19:40Speaker 1: de Ville, with the wonderful tapestries worked by Queen Matilde,
- 19:43Speaker 1: wife of William the Conqueror. They are really most extraordinary
- 19:46Speaker 1: and so well preserved. The colors look as if they
- 19:49Speaker 1: had been painted yesterday. I hadn't seen them for years
- 19:52Speaker 1: and had forgotten the curious shapes and vivid coloring. We
- 19:55Speaker 1: went to one of the lace shops, the Bayeux. Lace
- 19:58Speaker 1: is very pretty, made with the fuseau very fine, a
- 20:01Speaker 1: mixture of Valenciennes and Mechlin. It is very strong. Though
- 20:04Speaker 1: it looks delicate. The Dantellier still do a very good business.
- 20:08Speaker 1: The little girls begin to work as soon as they
- 20:10Speaker 1: can thread their needle and follow a simple pattern. The
- 20:14Speaker 1: Fs enjoyed their day at barbe Vill Contefoy's chateau very much.
- 20:18Speaker 1: They said. The house was nothing remarkable, a large square building,
- 20:22Speaker 1: but the park was original. Contefois is a racing man,
- 20:25Speaker 1: breeds horses and has his are on this place. The
- 20:29Speaker 1: park is all cut up into paddackx, each one separated
- 20:32Speaker 1: from the other by a hedge, and all connected by
- 20:34Speaker 1: green paths. F said the effect from the terrace was
- 20:37Speaker 1: quite charming. One saw nothing but grass and hedges, and
- 20:40Speaker 1: young horses and colts running about. Contesse Fois and her
- 20:44Speaker 1: daughters were making lace. The girls went into Bayou three
- 20:47Speaker 1: or four times a week and took lessons from one
- 20:49Speaker 1: of the Danteliers. End of section ten. Recording by Alex
- 20:55Speaker 1: Foster in Nottingham, England. Www dot Alex Foster dot me
- 20:59Speaker 1: dot uk.