Latest / Phil and H Travel - Is It Worth It? Top Travel Destinations Explored! / Kaunas 2026: Europe's 21% Cheaper Capital — Is It Worth It?
Transcript
- 0:00Welcome to the Phil and H Travel podcast.
- 0:01Is it worth it? Glad to be here.
- 0:03Today we're doing a deep dive into a place that honestly, most
- 0:07people probably couldn't point to on a map.
- 0:09We are unpacking a massive logistics first dossier on
- 0:14Connis. Right, which is Lithuania's
- 0:16second city. Exactly.
- 0:18And our mission today is to figure out if it makes sense for
- 0:21you to actually go there in 2026.
- 0:24We're talking real costs, transport hacks, and a brutally
- 0:28honest look at what's great and what's, well, kind of a let
- 0:31down. Yeah, we're covering it all for
- 0:32backpackers to digital nomads to families.
- 0:35So I want to ask you, the listener, to do a quick mental
- 0:38exercise with me. Think about the last time you
- 0:40heard someone throw around the phrase like budget capital of
- 0:43Europe. Oh, that phrase.
- 0:45Right. Or the last time you saw a
- 0:47glossy travel magazine promising an undiscovered European gem.
- 0:51Usually when we hear those phrases today, there is this
- 0:54idiot, almost Pavlovian expectation of a catch.
- 0:57Is there always is a catch? You know exactly what I mean.
- 0:59You see the beautiful drone footage, the tourism board
- 1:02promises you this authentic wallet friendly experience, and
- 1:06then you actually arrive. And the reality just shatters
- 1:09the illusion almost instantly. It's usually a highly curated
- 1:13manufactured facade. A complete facade.
- 1:16You step off the plane, you're dragging your suitcase over the
- 1:19cobblestones, and suddenly you are paying like €8 for an
- 1:24aggressively mediocre cappuccino.
- 1:27You're navigating oceans of selfie sticks just across a
- 1:30public square, and you quickly realize that global inflation
- 1:34and, you know, a flood of viral social media tourism got to this
- 1:38undiscovered gem about three years before you did.
- 1:41It's exhausting. It really is.
- 1:43We all want to believe in the fairy tale of the cheap,
- 1:46untouched European city, but the reality on the ground is usually
- 1:49just a hyper commercialized theme.
- 1:51Park right? It's the absolute definition of
- 1:53tourism board spin. I mean, cities learn to market
- 1:56their historical aesthetic yeah, while entirely abandoning the
- 1:59local grounded economy that made them interesting in the 1st
- 2:02place. They basically hollow themselves
- 2:04out to cater entirely to transient short term visitors.
- 2:08But then you step into this one specific city in the Baltics and
- 2:12suddenly that whole bait and switch machine is just it's
- 2:15totally absent. Yeah, it really is.
- 2:17We are looking at a destination landscape that operates on hard,
- 2:21unvarnished cost realities. It's a city that does not
- 2:25pretend to be something it's not.
- 2:26It doesn't have the infrastructure for mass tourist
- 2:29delusion. And frankly, it doesn't seem to
- 2:32care. It's remarkably grounded, and
- 2:35because it operates without that layer of performative tourism,
- 2:40it becomes a completely different type of travel
- 2:42experience. So if you are completely burned
- 2:43out and being treated like a walking ATM on your vacations,
- 2:46today is for you. We are heading to Kanas, Kanas,
- 2:49Lithuania. We're talking about a place with
- 2:51a 14th century Old Town, a functioning river port situated
- 2:55right on the banks of the Namunas River, and an aesthetic
- 2:58that tells the complicated story of 20th century Europe.
- 3:01To examine the actual underlying mechanisms of the city, not just
- 3:05the highlights, but the real economics of it.
- 3:07Exactly, and the context surrounding Countess heading
- 3:11into 2026 is just incredibly revealing.
- 3:14It is. If we look at the data, flight
- 3:17searches in the Kanas are up 59% year on year. 59%.
- 3:21Yeah, it's a massive, undeniable spike in interest.
- 3:24And yet, Despite that surge, most travelers driving those
- 3:28searches don't even know that Kanas was actually designated as
- 3:32the European Capital of Culture back in 2022.
- 3:35Wow. Really.
- 3:36Yeah, it has this secret pedigree that most people are
- 3:38completely blind to. It's so true, they just see a
- 3:41cheap flight on a low cost carrier and think sure, why not?
- 3:44But what we're going to explore today is why the travellers who
- 3:48actually understand Konus leave absolutely raving about it,
- 3:51while the travellers who don't understand it leave completely
- 3:54baffled. It demands a certain level of
- 3:57historical and economic literacy from its visitors to truly
- 4:01appreciate what it offers. So let's build that literacy
- 4:03right now. Let's start with the macro view
- 4:05and a real 2026 reality check, because the biggest piece of
- 4:09news, like the crucial update for anyone mapping out their
- 4:13budget this year, is a tax change.
- 4:15Right, the VAT. Yeah, on January 1st, 2026,
- 4:18Lithuania instituted a value added tax hike on hotel
- 4:22accommodations. The rate went from 9% up to 12%.
- 4:26And whenever a traveler hears the phrase tax hike, the
- 4:29immediate psychological response is just panic.
- 4:33They assume the golden era of the destination is over, but we
- 4:38need to look at the macroeconomic mechanism here.
- 4:40I mean, why do emerging EU destinations eventually have to
- 4:43raise these specific taxes? For over a decade, Lithuania has
- 4:48quietly been one of the most affordable corners of the entire
- 4:51European Union. But as a destination gains
- 4:54traction, as you see, those flight searches jump by nearly
- 4:5760% if the local government faces a critical juncture.
- 5:00Things start breaking down. Exactly.
- 5:02More tourists mean more wear and tear on roads, more strain on
- 5:05public transit, more demand for sanitation in the historical
- 5:08center. The municipality recognizes the
- 5:10absolute necessity to formalize and capture more revenue from
- 5:14that influx. Just to maintain the city for
- 5:16the people who actually live there.
- 5:17Right. It's a classic, unavoidable sign
- 5:19of an emerging market maturing. I understand the theory, I do,
- 5:23but as a traveler, I am protective of my wallet.
- 5:26I mean, I think of Countess like that brilliant indie band that
- 5:29hasn't sold out yet. If searches are up 59% and
- 5:33they're actively tweaking the VATI have to ask, are we
- 5:37catching the very tail end of the golden era?
- 5:40Here? Is the discount window slamming
- 5:42shut? That is the most important
- 5:44question to ask. But this is where the underlying
- 5:46math of Countess provides a profound sense of relief.
- 5:50Because despite this 12% VAT hike, Countess remains exactly
- 5:5421% cheaper than the capital city, Vilnius.
- 5:57Wait, hold on. Exactly 21%.
- 5:59Across the board, when you aggregate the cost of
- 6:02accommodation, dining, public transport and historical
- 6:05attractions, that 21% discount hold incredibly steady.
- 6:09That is wild. And that gap is the key metric.
- 6:12The 12% tax hike doesn't actually ruin the budget math
- 6:15for you. Think about the practical
- 6:17application. A three percentage point
- 6:19increase on a hotel room that only costs €50 to begin with.
- 6:22That's just an extra buck 50 a night.
- 6:24Exactly. It's a negligible rounding error
- 6:26for the individual traveler, but multiplied across hundreds of
- 6:29thousands of visitor nights, it provides meaningful capital for
- 6:33the city's infrastructure. OK, that makes complete sense.
- 6:35When you frame it as $1.50, the panic definitely subsides.
- 6:38To put some hard everyday numbers to that 21% gap, a
- 6:43serious boots on the ground CONUS trip is going to run you
- 6:47about 40 to €60 per day for your total out of pocket budget,
- 6:51right? Compare that to 55 to €80 for
- 6:54the exact same style of travel in Vilnius.
- 6:57That is the reality of being a second city.
- 6:59I mean, Qantas is home to about 300,000 people.
- 7:02It has size, it has scale, but it doesn't have capital city
- 7:05inflation. And part of the reason it feels
- 7:07so distinct from Vilnius is its architecture.
- 7:09Oh yeah, the central interwar modernist architecture here is
- 7:13actually on the UNESCO tentative list.
- 7:14We really need to pause on that architecture, because you cannot
- 7:18understand Qantas without understanding why it looks the
- 7:22way it does. It possesses this utterly unique
- 7:25provisional capital architecture.
- 7:28Provisional capital. Explain that because usually a
- 7:31city is either a capital or it isn't.
- 7:33It requires A brief step back into the chaotic aftermath of
- 7:36World War One in 1920 through a complex series of geopolitical
- 7:41maneuvers and conflicts. The historical capital of
- 7:44Lithuania, Vilnius, was essentially annexed and occupied
- 7:48by Poland. Oh wow, so the country just
- 7:50suddenly lost its capital city? Exactly.
- 7:53Imagine the panic. The newly independent Lithuanian
- 7:56state suddenly had no administrative center, so they
- 8:00had to rapidly retreat and designate canas, which at the
- 8:04time was essentially a muddy, provincial, heavily fortified
- 8:07Russian imperial Garrison town, as the temporary or provisional
- 8:11capital of the country. That sounds like a logistical
- 8:13nightmare. It was What does it mean for a
- 8:16secondary city to suddenly become a capital overnight?
- 8:19It means an explosion of administrative and diplomatic
- 8:22needs. You suddenly need buildings for
- 8:23the Ministry of Finance. You need foreign embassies.
- 8:26You need modern housing for diplomats, university
- 8:28professors, government officials.
- 8:29Well, they had to build an entire capital city from
- 8:31scratch, basically in a panic. Precisely.
- 8:35But here's the critical detail. They were building this from
- 8:38scratch in the 1920s and 1930s, so instead of the heavy ornate
- 8:4219th century styles or the Gothic medieval styles you see
- 8:45in other European old towns. They went modern.
- 8:48Yes, the sudden, frantic building boom and Countess
- 8:52coincided perfectly with the global rise of Modernism,
- 8:55Bauhaus and Art Deco. They hired young, ambitious
- 8:59Lithuanian architects who had studied in Paris, Berlin and
- 9:02Rome and unleashed them on the city.
- 9:04That is incredible context. So when you're walking through
- 9:06the center of Qantas today, you aren't just looking at random
- 9:09old buildings. You are walking through this
- 9:11incredibly cohesive, frozen in time collection of interwar
- 9:15modernist ambition. It shapes the entire physical
- 9:18layout of the central core. It feels intentional, sweeping,
- 9:21geometric and uniquely optimistic in its design.
- 9:25It was a nation trying to prove its modernity to the world
- 9:28through concrete and glass. It makes me think of the city as
- 9:31this architectural time capsule that was sealed just before
- 9:34World War 2. But knowing all this and seeing
- 9:37those flight searches spike, I'm still nervous about that 21%
- 9:41discount window. Well, the structural realities
- 9:44of conness suggests that the window will stay open for quite
- 9:46some time. Because it is a second city, it
- 9:49doesn't serve as the primary international hub for foreign
- 9:52investment or mass corporate relocation.
- 9:55And the way a capital does that naturally insulates the local
- 9:59real estate and hospitality markets.
- 10:01Prices will inevitably creep up. I mean, that is the nature of
- 10:04global economics, but that 21% differential with Vilnius is
- 10:08structurally protected by the city's secondary status.
- 10:11OK, if the value window is still open, we need to talk about
- 10:14exactly when you should climb through it.
- 10:15Because timing a trip to the Baltics is not like timing a
- 10:18trip to Spain. Not at all.
- 10:20Latitude dictates absolutely everything in this part of the
- 10:22world. So let's break down the calendar
- 10:25month by month. We'll start with the sweet spots
- 10:27late May to June. The absolute best time.
- 10:30This is when the city is just perfection.
- 10:33Hotel rates are sitting around 60 to €75 a night.
- 10:37The temperatures are a really pleasant 18 to 22°C.
- 10:41Which is roughly 65 to 72°F for our American listener.
- 10:45Exactly. Not too hot, not cold, just
- 10:47crisp beautiful weather. Leisviz Alosha, which is the
- 10:51massive main pedestrian Blvd. is totally alive with people
- 10:54walking and dining outside, and all the Riverside cafes along
- 10:58the Namunas River are open and buzzing.
- 11:00It's. A great vibe.
- 11:01Then you have the second sweet spot on the other side of
- 11:04summer. mid-september to early October, rates drop back down to
- 11:08about €55 a night. Temps are 12 to 18°C.
- 11:12You get these gorgeous autumn colors in the city parks, and
- 11:16the museums are wonderfully quiet.
- 11:17Those two windows represent the absolute peak return on
- 11:21investment for the traveler who wants the perfect balance of
- 11:23comfort, outdoor culture and value.
- 11:26But then we have the actual peak season, July and August.
- 11:30This is when everyone in Europe goes on holiday rates go up to
- 11:3375 to €95 a night. Temperatures hit 23 to 27°C.
- 11:38So it's genuinely warm. And in early July you have the
- 11:41biggest event of the year, the Countess Hanseatic Days, which
- 11:45is this massive medieval festival that just floods the
- 11:48Old Town with activity, crafts and historical reenactments.
- 11:52But our sources make a very important distinction here.
- 11:55Even at its absolute most frantic peak in July, Countess
- 12:00is still not crowded by Western European standards.
- 12:03That is a crucial point. The lack of overwhelming,
- 12:06suffocating crowds during the peak summer season is one of the
- 12:09city's greatest assets. You aren't going to be shoulder
- 12:11to shoulder fighting for breathing room like you are in
- 12:13Florence, Venice or Barcelona. You can actually walk.
- 12:17You can still get a table at a restaurant.
- 12:18You can still walk down the street at your own pace.
- 12:20We also have the shoulder season, which is April to early
- 12:24May. You're looking at 45 to €55 a
- 12:27night, but the temperatures are a brisk 8 to 15°C.
- 12:33The outdoor patios are literally just starting to drag their
- 12:36chairs out of storage. Yeah, it's pretty chilly.
- 12:39But then we have to talk about the hard season, the.
- 12:40Deep freeze. Mid-october through March.
- 12:44This is where the reality of the latitude really hits you.
- 12:47November to February temperatures hover between -5
- 12:50and plus 3°C. January routinely hits -10 and
- 12:56it's not just the cold. You only get about 7 hours of
- 12:58daylight. The Riverside culture
- 13:00essentially ceases to exist. It is a profound environmental
- 13:03shift. It is, but hotel rates bottom
- 13:06out at an incredible 38 euros a night.
- 13:08Which is practically free. So if we look at the math from
- 13:12the €38 low in January to the 75 or 95 peak in July, we're
- 13:18looking at a price variance of roughly 100%.
- 13:20Let's unpack the economics of that 100% low to peak price
- 13:23variance, because to an economist, that is actually a
- 13:26sign of incredible stability. Wait, I have to challenge you on
- 13:29that. A 100% jump in price from winter
- 13:32to summer feels like a massive swing to me.
- 13:35How is doubling the price considered stable?
- 13:38I know it sounds drastic until you compare it to the
- 13:41alternatives in the European travel market.
- 13:44If you look at Mediterranean destinations, places in the
- 13:46Greek islands, southern Italy, the Spanish coast, their price
- 13:50variance from January to August can easily be 300 to 400%.
- 13:55Oh wow, Yeah, that's. True, a coastal hotel room that
- 13:58they practically give away for €50 in the dead of winter
- 14:00becomes 250 or 300 in August. The fact that Countess only
- 14:05swings 100% tells us a vital story about its underlying
- 14:09economy. It has a functioning year round
- 14:11domestic and business ecosystem. Because actual people live
- 14:15there. Exactly is a real city where
- 14:17people work, study and live. It is not solely reliant on
- 14:21three months of summer tourism to survive the year.
- 14:24That baseline economic stability is exactly what makes it a
- 14:27reliable budget capital for you, regardless of when you visit.
- 14:30I see the economic logic, I really do.
- 14:33But as a traveller I look at that 38 year old January price
- 14:37tag and I see a total trap. I call it the January trap.
- 14:40The genius trap. I like that.
- 14:42Because it looks like an absolute steal on paper, €38 for
- 14:45a nice hotel until you are physically standing outside at
- 14:493:00 PM. The sun is already setting it's
- 14:52-10°, the wind is coming off the river and you literally cannot
- 14:55feel your face. You are miserable.
- 14:57It's an intense experience. So I have to push back here.
- 15:00If a listener absolutely must travel in the hard season, maybe
- 15:04that's their only time off work or they found a 15 year old
- 15:06flight, is it actually worth it or are they just paying to be
- 15:09miserable? How do they I prepare mentally
- 15:11for that? I completely understand the
- 15:13hesitation, but I would argue that visiting the Baltics in
- 15:16deep winter offers a sociological experience you
- 15:19simply cannot get in July. But it absolutely requires a
- 15:23complete and total shifts and expectations.
- 15:25Like what? You are no longer going for
- 15:27long, leisurely, romantic strolls along the riverbanks.
- 15:30You're engaging in the survival culture of the North.
- 15:33Survival Culture. Yes, you do what the locals have
- 15:36done for centuries. You build your day around indoor
- 15:40sanctuaries. You engage heavily in the cafe
- 15:42culture. You spend 3 hours inside the
- 15:45exceptional art museums. Instead of rushing through them,
- 15:47you retreat to the underground brew pubs.
- 15:49Sounds cozy. Actually it.
- 15:51Is you eat heavy, warm, caloric food, you have to actively
- 15:55embrace the concept of coziness, the warmth of a fireplace in a
- 15:58medieval cellar while the wind howls outside.
- 16:01If you fight the Baltic winter and try to treat your trip like
- 16:04a breezy summer city break, you will be deeply miserable, just
- 16:07as you said, right. But if you accept the rhythm of
- 16:10the cold, the city possesses a very stark, quiet, almost
- 16:14cinematic beauty in January. All right, I will concede that
- 16:17there's a romance to hiding in a medieval cellar from a Blizzard.
- 16:20Just dress warmly, people. Seriously, invest in good socks.
- 16:23Good thermal socks. Now let's talk about actually
- 16:25getting there, the logistics of arrival, and those crucial first
- 16:29impressions. Arrival options are robust.
- 16:32You can fly direct via Ryanair from roughly 30 different
- 16:36European cities. We are talking major hubs,
- 16:38London, Luton, Dublin, Milan, Berlin, Eindhoven, Malaga,
- 16:43Stockholm, Copenhagen. That's a lot of connectivity for
- 16:46a second city. It is round trip fares are as
- 16:49low as 55 euros in the off peak months and cap out around 180 in
- 16:54the summer peak. The airport itself is located
- 16:57about 14 kilometers outside the city center.
- 16:59And the transport logistics from the airport into the city are
- 17:02refreshingly straightforward. They really are.
- 17:04You don't need a complicated train pass.
- 17:06You can take the 29 G bus which takes exactly 30 minutes and
- 17:09costs exactly €1.00. It's brilliant.
- 17:11Well, Euro. Or, if you have luggage, you can
- 17:14take a local taxi for about 15 to €20 or use the Bolt rideshare
- 17:18app, which is ubiquitous in the Baltics, for about 11 to 14
- 17:22euros. There's also an alternative
- 17:23route. You can fly into the capital
- 17:25Vilnius, which naturally has more long haul connections, and
- 17:28then simply take the train over to Qantas.
- 17:30That's super easy too. Yeah, it is an 80 minute ride,
- 17:33cost just €7.00, runs hourly and the trains are modern and very
- 17:37comfortable. Or you can take a regional bus
- 17:39from Vilnius for between 5:00 and 7:00 euros.
- 17:42But once you arrive, regardless of whether you step off a plane
- 17:45or a train, you are immediately hit with a very specific,
- 17:49undeniable sensory profile. And what is most fascinating to
- 17:53observe here is the phenomenon of what we call Baltic light.
- 17:57Yes, the sources describe the light in Qantas as cooler,
- 18:00grayer, and higher angled than most of Europe.
- 18:04I want to dig into this because we rarely think about how the
- 18:07literal sun effects our travel experience.
- 18:09It is a critical element of environmental psychology.
- 18:12This raises an important question.
- 18:13I mean, why does latitude completely change the aesthetic
- 18:17and emotional feel of a city? Because Qantas is situated so
- 18:20far north on a similar latitude to Denmark or southern Sweden,
- 18:24the fun travels at a significantly lower arc across
- 18:27the sky for much of the year compared to, say, Italy or
- 18:30Spain. Right, so the light isn't
- 18:31punching straight down from above.
- 18:33Exactly. It comes in at a slant, it
- 18:35creates these long, dramatic shadows even at midday, and the
- 18:39light itself is filtered through more atmosphere, giving it a
- 18:42cooler, almost silvery quality. It entirely lacks the golden
- 18:46saturated hyper warmth you associate with the Tuscan
- 18:49sunset. It sounds incredibly cinematic,
- 18:51like the city is permanently lit for a Moody indie film.
- 18:54It is profoundly cinematic, and this specific light heavily
- 18:58influenced the local artists and architects we talked about
- 19:00earlier. When you are designing modernist
- 19:03buildings or painting landscapes knowing they will be viewed in
- 19:06that silvery, diffuse light, you use different textures.
- 19:09That makes total sense. You rely on sharp geometric
- 19:12contrasts rather than ornate details that would just get lost
- 19:15in the shadows. It gives the city a slightly
- 19:18melancholic but deeply atmospheric feel.
- 19:21Combine that visual aesthetic with the relatively low density
- 19:23of the traffic, the smell of fresh bread ovens and coffee
- 19:26roasters in the morning cold, and the distinct scent of
- 19:29Pinewood smoke drifting from Riverside grills in the evening,
- 19:32it creates an incredibly powerful, specific sense of
- 19:35place. And that sense of place doesn't
- 19:38hit you all at once, according to the research.
- 19:41It evolves over what is called the 24 hour psychological arc.
- 19:46I'm obsessed with this concept. Let me break it down.
- 19:48Please do. Hour 1 You arrive, you check
- 19:50into your room, you walk out onto the street and honestly,
- 19:53the city feels small, maybe a little too quiet.
- 19:56Yeah, you wonder where everyone is.
- 19:58Hour 6 You've been walking around and that interwar
- 20:01modernist architecture we spent so much time discussing finally
- 20:04clicks in your brain. You stop seeing old concrete and
- 20:07start seeing the cohesive 1930s ambition right hour 24.
- 20:12You've slept, you've had a few incredible meals, you've paid a
- 20:15few bills, and the price to quality ratio hooks you
- 20:18completely. You look at your bank app and
- 20:20realize you're getting away with something spectacular.
- 20:23That psychological arc is incredibly common for second
- 20:26cities all over the world. They rarely overwhelm you with
- 20:29immediate jaw-dropping spectacle in the 1st 60 minutes the way
- 20:33Paris or Rome does. They require patience.
- 20:36They require you to settle into their specific rhythm before
- 20:39they reveal their value. And settling into that rhythm
- 20:42means understanding the physical layout.
- 20:45There are 4 main geographic zones you need to know to
- 20:48navigate Qantas effectively. Let's map it out.
- 20:51First you have the Old Town. This is the 14th century core
- 20:55situated right at the confluence of the two rivers, anchored by
- 20:58the town hall square. It is cobblestones, medieval
- 21:01churches, and the best area for pure historical character and
- 21:05aimless walking. Very classic Europe.
- 21:07Then immediately adjacent, you have the new town, and the new
- 21:11town is essentially defined by one massive feature, which is
- 21:15Lisfa's Aluja. Which translates to Liberty
- 21:17Blvd. It is a massive 1.6 kilometer
- 21:21fully pedestrianized St. lined with Linden trees.
- 21:25Right. And it takes about 25 minutes to
- 21:27walk its entire length at a steady pace.
- 21:29It seamlessly connects the modern edge of the Newtown
- 21:32directly into the medieval Old Town.
- 21:34Think about what that actually means for your legs and your
- 21:36brain. It's a trip through time.
- 21:38It really is. You start walking at one end.
- 21:40Maybe you've just come out of a glass rented modern cafe.
- 21:43As you walk the building shift, you see the geometric swooping
- 21:47lines of 1930s Art Deco. Another 10 minutes you're
- 21:51looking at 19th century Imperial Russian facades.
- 21:55Another 10 minutes. The pavement turns to
- 21:56cobblestone, the streets narrow, and suddenly you are standing in
- 22:00a 14th century Hanseatic merchant square.
- 22:03A single 25 minute stroll down Liza's Alesia isn't just a walk,
- 22:09it is a literal chronological descent straight backward
- 22:13through European history. It perfectly illustrates the
- 22:15historical duality of the city. You are physically walking the
- 22:18timeline of Lithuanian independence, occupation and
- 22:21medieval prominence. It is brilliant urban planning.
- 22:24Then we have the third zone, Elia Calmness.
- 22:26This translates to the Green Hill.
- 22:28It is exactly what it sounds like, the hilltop district
- 22:31overlooking the center. You reach it by riding this
- 22:33beautifully preserved funicular railway, built in 1931.
- 22:37I love a good funicular. The neighborhood is quiet,
- 22:39highly residential, filled with wooden houses, offers incredible
- 22:44sweeping views of the city, and is about a 15 minute walk back
- 22:47down the hill to the main Blvd. Finally, there is the 4th zone
- 22:51on East High. Trendy spot.
- 22:53This is located further along the Namunas Riverside and it is
- 22:57the rapidly emerging Creative District.
- 22:59It's defined by old military barracks being converted into
- 23:03cheap apartments, cool independent cafes and murals.
- 23:07It is essentially the future of the city's youth culture.
- 23:10Now that we have the physical geography mapped out, we have to
- 23:12figure out where you're actually going to sleep and, crucially,
- 23:16how much it's going to cost you. OK, let's climb the
- 23:18accommodation ladder. We will start at the bottom with
- 23:20the pure backpackers. If you are solo, you can stay at
- 23:23a highly rated hostel like the Monk's Bunk for just 15 to €22
- 23:28for a dorm bed during the shoulder season.
- 23:30That's incredibly cheap. If you want a bit more privacy,
- 23:33the Apple Economy Hotel offers basic private rooms starting at
- 23:37€28.00. If you are a backpacker couple
- 23:40pooling your money, a totally realistic expectation is 35 to
- 23:44€45 a night for a clean, secure, centrally located private room.
- 23:49I want to emphasize that securing a private room for two
- 23:52people for €40 is exceptionally competitive for the European
- 23:56Union in 2026. In Western Europe, that barely
- 24:00covers a single dorm bed. It really is staggering moving
- 24:03one rung up the ladder to the mid range couple.
- 24:06You have a fascinating split in options here.
- 24:08On one hand you have the The Gurdas Hotel in the Old Town.
- 24:12This is a meticulously restored 16th to 18th century building
- 24:16with exposed brick vaults running 70 to €95 a night.
- 24:20OK. Lots of character.
- 24:21On the main Blvd. you have the Comma City Hotel for similar
- 24:24pricing or a reliable Ibis for 65 to 85 euros.
- 24:28But then on the other hand, there is the Moxie Conna Center,
- 24:31which is a brand new ultra modern neon lit Marriott
- 24:34property running 75 to 105 euros.
- 24:37Notice the options available at that specific mid range price
- 24:40level. I do, and I want to challenge
- 24:42you on this because travelers fight about this all the time.
- 24:45You've got the Moxie offering total modern convenience,
- 24:48flawless high speed Wi-Fi, smart TV's, new plumbing, a trendy
- 24:52lobby versus the Dagurdas with its 18th century bones, creaky
- 24:56floors and historical charm. Which one of those actually
- 24:59gives you a better sense of place when you travel?
- 25:01Are you losing the authentic conness experience if you stay
- 25:04at a modern Moxie? That is a brilliant question,
- 25:07and it depends entirely on how you define authenticity.
- 25:09In 2026, the Moxie represents the modern outward looking
- 25:14CONUS, the dynamic tech forward city that currently hosts
- 25:17international digital nomads and progressive Baltic business that
- 25:22is a very real part of the city's identity today.
- 25:24That's a good point. The Dogirdas, conversely, roots
- 25:28you in the deep historical reality of the 14th century
- 25:32mercantile corps. The fact that both of these
- 25:34vastly different experiences exist, operate successfully, and
- 25:38compete at the exact same €85 price point is a massive
- 25:42testament to the health and diversity of the mid range
- 25:44market here. You aren't forced into a mold.
- 25:47That is a very fairpoint. Modern Countess is just as
- 25:50authentic as Medieval Countess. Let's look at families.
- 25:53If you are bringing kids, the Countess Hotel right on the main
- 25:56Blvd. Offers massive family suites for
- 25:58100 to €140 a night, which includes a great breakfast
- 26:03buffet and access to a small indoor pool.
- 26:06Kids love a pool. Always The Victoria Hotel offers
- 26:09similar amenities, or if you need a kitchen to cook for picky
- 26:12eaters, you can rent an entire apartment in the On GI district
- 26:15that comfortably sleeps 4 people for about €80 a night.
- 26:19And finally, we must examine the luxury tier, because analyzing
- 26:22the top of a city's market tells us a huge amount about the
- 26:25economic soul of the destination.
- 26:27Right. And this is going to shock
- 26:28people. The absolute ceiling of luxury
- 26:31in Cannes is the Radisson Hotel. It has the best panoramic city
- 26:35views, a full spa and the highest rated breakfast spread
- 26:38in the city. And to stay at this absolute
- 26:41pinnacle of Qantas luxury, it costs 140 to €220 a night.
- 26:46That's it. That is the hard cap.
- 26:48You cannot spend more money on a hotel room in the city if you
- 26:51tried. What is fascinating here is the
- 26:53sociological implication of that luxury ceiling.
- 26:56I want to introduce a concept. Think of this 220 euro ceiling
- 27:00as a protective glass ceiling against hyper gentrification.
- 27:04In cities like Paris, London or even nearby capitals like
- 27:07Vilnius or Riga. The top of the accommodation
- 27:10market is 608 hundred, maybe well over €1000 a night.
- 27:14You have massive 5 star international brands, Four
- 27:17Seasons, Ritz Carlton catering specifically to ultra wealthy
- 27:20tourists, foreign dignitaries and celebrities.
- 27:23And when those brands move in, the whole neighborhood changes.
- 27:26The local bakery becomes a boutique selling €400
- 27:29sunglasses. Exactly, the local ecosystem is
- 27:33ripped up to serve the billionaire class.
- 27:35The fact that the absolute top of the market and Countess is a
- 27:38four-star Radisson at €220 speaks volumes.
- 27:43It tells you immediately that this city does not possess the
- 27:46infrastructure to cater to ultra wealthy international tourists
- 27:50and because it doesn't cater to them, they don't come.
- 27:53Instead, the city's demographic remains local business people,
- 27:56regional Baltic tourism and value focused international
- 27:59travelers. This glass ceiling keeps the
- 28:02entire city's economy grounded in reality.
- 28:05It protects the €1.30 beer. It's incredible.
- 28:08The lack of luxury is the exact mechanism that preserves the
- 28:11value for everyone else. Now, Speaking of that one EUR 30
- 28:14beer, let's talk about the best part of any trip, the food.
- 28:17We need to do a culinary deep dive, understand the history of
- 28:20what we are eating and reveal the absolute ultimate value hack
- 28:24in Lithuania. The cuisine in this region is
- 28:26deeply, inextricably tied to the geography, the soil, and the
- 28:30harsh climate. We just earlier.
- 28:32And let's be honest, it is hearty.
- 28:34Unapologetically hearty. If you are expecting light leafy
- 28:39Mediterranean salads, you are in the wrong country.
- 28:42The wrong country. Lithuanian food is much heavier
- 28:45than most of Western Europe expects.
- 28:47The absolute undisputed national dish is called Sepulini.
- 28:51These are massive Zeppelin shaped potato dumplings stuffed
- 28:55with heavily seasoned minced pork, boiled and then served
- 28:59with a very generous, unapologetic pouring of sour
- 29:02cream and crispy bacon bit. They are magnificent.
- 29:04A proper backstreet portion of two massive Zeppelin I is going
- 29:08to cost you about 7 to 9 euros. If we look at the heavy potato
- 29:12and pork nature of this specific cuisine, it is a direct
- 29:15reflection of historical harsh agricultural winters.
- 29:18When you were a 19 century farmer dealing with those -10°
- 29:21January days, you need immense caloric density to survive.
- 29:25You need fuel. You need root vegetables like
- 29:27potatoes and beets that can be stored in root Cellars through
- 29:29the long freeze. You need preserved, salted and
- 29:32smoked meats. The food you're eating today is
- 29:34essentially historical survival fuel that has been culturally
- 29:38refined into modern comfort food.
- 29:40Comfort food is definitely the right word, but the portion
- 29:43sizes are genuinely intimidating.
- 29:45Let me tell you, a plate of Sipolina isn't just lunch, it's
- 29:48a structural engineering marvel. You look at the density of these
- 29:52dumplings and you realize you are eating bricks of pure
- 29:55energy. I mean, you eat a plate of that
- 29:58at 1:00 PM and you are structurally sound for the rest
- 30:01of the day. You won't need to eat again
- 30:03until tomorrow. It is remarkably efficient
- 30:05fueling. But it's not all heavy winter
- 30:08food. If you visit in the summer sweet
- 30:09spots, the staple shifts to Alti Baruccia.
- 30:13This is an incredibly vibrant, almost neon pink cold beetroot
- 30:17soup, usually made with Kiefer, cucumbers and dill, served with
- 30:21a hard boiled egg and a side of hot potato.
- 30:24It's so photogenic. It is refreshing, bizarrely
- 30:26beautiful to look at and costs about four to €5.
- 30:29You also have Kugelis which is a rich baked potato pudding
- 30:32layered with bacon for €6 and then you have keep an eye which
- 30:36are these savory Half Moon pastries filled with meat or
- 30:38vegetables and they are only €2.00 each.
- 30:41And we must explain the origin of those Cuban eye because it
- 30:44tells a fascinating story of Lithuanian history.
- 30:47They're not originally Lithuanian.
- 30:49They reflect the Karaite heritage in the region.
- 30:51I saw that in the research, but I need you to explain it.
- 30:54Who are the Karaites and why are their pastries a staple in
- 30:58Lithuania? The Karaites are a small Turkic
- 31:01speaking ethnic and religious group originally from the Crimea
- 31:04back in the late 14th century. The Grand Duke of Lithuania.
- 31:08If you taught us, the Great brought several 100 carry eight
- 31:11families from Crimea to Lithuania to serve as his elite
- 31:14personal bodyguards and to help defend the castle at Trocci.
- 31:18Wait, his personal bodyguards? Yeah, they settled there,
- 31:21maintained their distinct culture, religion and cuisine
- 31:24for over 600 years and their signature dish, the Cuban eye
- 31:27pastry, slowly integrated into the broader Lithuanian culinary
- 31:31landscape. When you eat A2 euro Cuban eye,
- 31:34you are tasting a 600 year old multicultural military alliance.
- 31:38That is mind blowing. The history is baked right into
- 31:40the pastry crust. So where are we actually going
- 31:44to eat all of this history? We have some specific spots for
- 31:48traditional, unapologetic Lithuanian food.
- 31:51Bernelli Ujega on Volunteer Street is a consistent winner.
- 31:54Maine's around €15, great spot. If you want something more
- 31:58robust like game meat, venison, wild boar, you go to Majido
- 32:04Jujega which translates to the Hunters Inn or Maine's Run 16 to
- 32:08€20. For something highly modern and
- 32:11refined there is Luxas offering a contemporary Baltic tasting
- 32:14menu for about €45 per person. And for casual lively craft
- 32:18beer, there is a brew pub right on the main Blvd. called.
- 32:22Oh, in the basement, right? Yeah, they brew their own beer
- 32:24in the basement. Pints are €3 and genuinely good
- 32:27pub mains are €12. Those restaurant prices are
- 32:30excellent, but to truly understand the budget of a
- 32:32destination, we also have to look at the grocery economy.
- 32:35This is vital for the backpackers, the digital nomads
- 32:38and families renting apartments. Absolutely.
- 32:40Let's do a mental walk through the local supermarket.
- 32:43The main grocery chains are Maxima, which has three massive
- 32:46central branches, Rimi which is positioned as slightly more
- 32:50premium, and Iki which has smaller convenience stores
- 32:53everywhere. The 2026 real world prices are
- 32:56amazing to see. Give us the breakdown.
- 32:59You walk down the beverage aisle. 1/2 liter of local Avi
- 33:02Churi's beer is €1.30. You go to the deli counter, A
- 33:06kilo of high quality hard Lithuanian cheese is €9.
- 33:10The bakery, a fresh dense loaf of dark rye bread is €1.50.
- 33:15The produce section, a full kilo of potatoes for attempting your
- 33:18own engineering marvels at home, is just $0.80.
- 33:21And then the liquor aisle, A750 milliliter bottle of highly
- 33:25traditional potent Lithuanian Mead.
- 33:27Honey wine is €12. It is a highly localized,
- 33:30affordable agricultural economy, but the real centerpiece of the
- 33:34culinary budget, the thing that changes the math for every
- 33:36traveler, is the cultural institution known as the lunch
- 33:38special. Yes, the ultimate value hack.
- 33:42It is called Dinanos pitas. It translates simply to daily
- 33:45lunch. It is a special menu offered by
- 33:48almost every mid range restaurant in the city, strictly
- 33:51between 11:00 AM and 3:00 PM on weekdays.
- 33:53You walk in, ask for the Diano's Pitas and you get a full 2
- 33:57course meal, usually a soup and a solid meat and potatoes main
- 34:01course, plus a coffee or a drink, all for an astonishing 7
- 34:04to 9 euros. And we must emphasize the deep
- 34:07cultural significance of Diano's pietas.
- 34:09It is crucial to understand that this is not a tacky tourist
- 34:12discount designed to lure gullible foreigners in the door
- 34:15during quiet hours. It is a fundamental working
- 34:18class institution. It is designed specifically for
- 34:21local office workers, shop staff and manual laborers to leave
- 34:25their jobs and have a hot, substantial, dignified meal in
- 34:27the middle of the working day without breaking the bank.
- 34:30When you sit down and order it, you are not utilizing a tourist
- 34:33coupon. You are actively participating
- 34:35in the daily authentic rhythm of the city.
- 34:37I love that perspective. A few quick etiquette notes
- 34:40before we pay the bill. Tipping is generally 10% in
- 34:43restaurants and despite the tech forward nature of the city, you
- 34:47should always try to leave it in physical catch so it goes
- 34:50straight to the server. You should learn to say a Chu,
- 34:53pronounced a Chu which means thank you.
- 34:56And whatever you do, please avoid the tourist trap
- 34:59restaurant situated directly on Vilnius St. in the Old Town.
- 35:02Yeah, that's a classic mistake. If you just walk 2 streets back
- 35:06away from the main pedestrian flow, the prices dropped by 30%
- 35:09instantly and the food gets substantially better because
- 35:12they are cooking for locals, not one time visitors.
- 35:14OK. We have covered the flights, the
- 35:16hotels, the transport, and the food.
- 35:19Let's synthesize all of these costs.
- 35:21What do the actual daily out of pocket budgets look like for our
- 35:25different traveler profiles? We have mapped out four specific
- 35:28out of pocket budget blueprints. First the low budget designed
- 35:32for the backpacker. You are looking at exactly €38 a
- 35:35day. That breaks down to €17.00 for a
- 35:38hostile bed, €12.00 for food, assuming you strictly use that
- 35:41DNS pH ES lunch special hack we just talked about and buy some
- 35:45groceries, €2.00 for public transport, €4.00 for museum
- 35:49countries and €3 for miscellaneous stuff like a
- 35:52coffee. Being able to travel comfortably
- 35:54in a safe European Union city for under €40 a day in 2026 is
- 36:00practically unheard of. It is a superpower.
- 36:03Next is the mid budget for a mid range couple.
- 36:06This comes out to €75 per person per day.
- 36:09That's €35 for your half of a really nice hotel room, €20 for
- 36:14food, €5 for transport, €8 for attractions and seven EUR
- 36:18miscellaneous. That's incredibly reasonable.
- 36:21Honestly I have to marvel sis. Mid range budget for €75 a day.
- 36:24You weren't sacrificing anything.
- 36:26You are eating instant ramen in a cramped hostile kitchen.
- 36:29You are eating wild boar, drinking local craft beer,
- 36:33riding the funicular and sleeping in 18th century
- 36:35restored brick hotels. You are living beautifully.
- 36:38It represents the absolute sweet spot of value, intersecting with
- 36:41genuine comfort. Then we have the high budget for
- 36:44the luxury traveler. This tops out at €195 per person
- 36:49per day. That's 110 for accommodation,
- 36:52putting you in a suite at that top Radisson tier.
- 36:54We mentioned 45 for high end dining, 15 for transport
- 36:58including private taxis, 15 for attractions and 10
- 37:02miscellaneous. And finally, we have to look at
- 37:04the fastest growing demographic, the digital nomad.
- 37:08Yes, the long term stay. The data shows you can live and
- 37:12count us year round for a baseline of €1200 a month.
- 37:16That budget covers 650 for a modern long stay one bedroom
- 37:20apartment, 250 for groceries, 50 for transport, 100 for a
- 37:25dedicated Co working space and high speed Wi-Fi, and 150 for
- 37:29your social life. Plus the visa situation is
- 37:31great. Yeah, from a legal standpoint
- 37:33point, if you hold a passport from the UK, Australia, New
- 37:35Zealand, Canada or the US, you are granted EU visa free entry
- 37:39for up to 90 days out of any 180 day period.
- 37:42You can just show up and plug in.
- 37:43We really need to emphasize how rare it is to find a genuinely
- 37:47viable EU digital nomad base for 1200 a month in this city you're
- 37:52getting world class high speed Internet, strict European Union
- 37:56safety and Food Standards, excellent healthcare
- 37:58infrastructure at a highly functioning walkable city, all
- 38:02for the price of renting a single damp bedroom in a shared
- 38:05house in London, Dublin or Amsterdam.
- 38:08It's an extraordinary geographic arbitrage opportunity.
- 38:11It is incredible. But before everyone listening
- 38:13immediately pauses the show to book a one way flight, we have
- 38:16to talk about the pitfalls. Because travel is never perfect
- 38:19and there are three very specific, highly damaging
- 38:22logistics traps that people fall into when visiting Qantas.
- 38:25These are the traps where a simple lack of research really
- 38:27costs people both financially and experientially.
- 38:30Trap #1 The Vilnius Day Trip Fallacy.
- 38:34The mechanism behind this trap is that almost all major legacy
- 38:37guidebooks list Townus merely as a suggested day trip from the
- 38:41capital, Vilnius. So well meaning tourists follow
- 38:45the book. They take the morning train,
- 38:47arrive in Qantas at 10 AM, spend 2 hours looking at the Old Town
- 38:50square, eat lunch, walk up the Blvd. and leave on the 5:00 PM
- 38:54train feeling like they've done the city.
- 38:56And by doing that, they completely miss the soul of the
- 38:59city. Exactly.
- 39:00They miss the three main art and history museums because they
- 39:03don't have time, they miss the Pajes Lee's monastery on the
- 39:06edge of town, they don't have time to ride the funicular up
- 39:08the hill, and they totally miss the emerging creative district
- 39:12of Anishai. The fix is so simple, but it
- 39:14requires ignoring the guidebook. Base yourself and count us for a
- 39:18minimum of three nights and use it as your central hub to do day
- 39:21trips out to places like the Truck, High Island Castle or the
- 39:23Monastery. If we deconstruct the psychology
- 39:26of major travel publishers, we understand exactly why this trap
- 39:30exists. I mean, why do major guidebooks
- 39:33constantly relegate complex second tier cities to a tiny day
- 39:37trip sidebar? Because they are economically
- 39:40incentivized to cater to checklist tourists, not deep
- 39:43travelers. Oh.
- 39:44That makes sense. They assume their reader has
- 39:46exactly 5 days in a country, wants to see the capital, take a
- 39:50photo of the most famous church, and move on.
- 39:53They are optimizing their books for breadth, not depth.
- 39:57But conness is a city that strictly requires depth to
- 39:59appreciate. That is a brilliant tear down of
- 40:02the guidebook industry. Stop checking boxes people.
- 40:05Trap #2 the January weather collapse.
- 40:07We debated this earlier. You see a cheap 15 euro Ryanair
- 40:11flight and a 38 euro hotel and you think you have outsmarted
- 40:15the global travel system. But you haven't.
- 40:16But then you arrive, it's -10°, the wind is howling the sunsets
- 40:21at 4:00 PM, and half the outdoor attractions are miserable to
- 40:24navigate. The fix?
- 40:26If winter is literally your only option to travel, push it back
- 40:30to late February or March. The cold is still present, but
- 40:33the daylight has returned and you might catch the Ujiguva's
- 40:36Festival, a traditional Baltic winter festival with masks and
- 40:40pancakes, which really brings the city alive.
- 40:42Or just have some patience and wait for September and October
- 40:46to get the budget prices paired with actually pleasant weather.
- 40:49And the final trap is an immediate, visceral one that
- 40:52hits you the second you land. Trap #3 the airport transport
- 40:55bill. You land late at night, you are
- 40:58tired, you walk out of the terminal and you just hop into
- 41:00the first taxi sitting at the official rank.
- 41:03That driver knows you are a tourist and he is going to
- 41:05charge you 25 to €40 for a 14 kilometer ride that should cost
- 41:1012. The fix is incredibly easy.
- 41:13The Kona's airport has free Wi-Fi right in the arrivals
- 41:16hall. Connect to it, install the Bolt
- 41:19A if you don't already have it, and hail a ride for a flat
- 41:22guaranteed 11 to €14.00. Or just take the 29 G bus for a
- 41:26single euro, which runs dependably until 11:00 PM.
- 41:29It is such a simple technological fix, but falling
- 41:33for that taxi scam completely ruins the 24 hour psychological
- 41:37arc we discussed earlier. It poisons hour 1.
- 41:40Oh absolutely it does. You realize you have just blown
- 41:433 days worth of lunch money on a basic 14 kilometer cab ride.
- 41:47You feel cheated, naive and defensive before you have even
- 41:51seen a single piece of modernist architecture.
- 41:54It puts you in a terrible mood. Now, Speaking of avoiding bad
- 41:57situations, let's talk about safety and comfort.
- 41:59What are the actual risks of traveling to Qantas in 2026?
- 42:02The risk profile of Qantas is actually quite deeply ironic
- 42:05when compared to major European hubs.
- 42:07I'll say according to the data, risk number one in 2026 is
- 42:11winter pavement ice. Because the violent crime and
- 42:14petty theft rates are so incredibly low, the single
- 42:17biggest statistical danger to your physical safety is slipping
- 42:20on a frozen sidewalk and hurting your ankle between December and
- 42:23February. You absolutely need sensible,
- 42:26grippy winter boots. Risk number 2 is cycling in
- 42:30Newtown traffic. The city has great separated
- 42:33bike paths by the river, but mixing with cars in the central
- 42:36grid is tough and intimidating. Yes, skip the bike in the
- 42:39center. And risk #3 is getting a
- 42:41terrible exchange rate at the airport or bus station currency
- 42:44kiosks. They routinely offer 15 to 25%
- 42:48worse rates than a Standard Bank.
- 42:50The fix? Just use a regular bank ATM to
- 42:53pull out your euros. This specific risk profile is
- 42:55the ultimate hallmark of a high trust society.
- 42:58When the local authorities primary safety warnings to
- 43:01tourists are about weather related slipping hazards and
- 43:03mathematically poor forex rates rather than aggressive
- 43:06pickpockets, bag snatchers or violent crime, you know you are
- 43:09operating in a deeply secure environment.
- 43:11It's not Rome, it's not Paris, it is not Barcelona.
- 43:14You do not need to wear your backpack on your front like a
- 43:16shield. You do not need a money belt.
- 43:18I love that so much. Be aware of ICE and a 15%
- 43:22currency markup. If the absolute worst thing that
- 43:25happens to you on vacation is you slip on some ICE or get a
- 43:27slightly bad rate on €50, you are doing incredibly well.
- 43:32Because of this high trust environment, the rating for solo
- 43:35female travel is exceptionally strong, it is safe to walk at
- 43:38night, the culture is generally reserved and respectful, and
- 43:42dining alone is perfectly normal and common.
- 43:44There's one minor thing to note, though.
- 43:46Right. The only minor caveat the
- 43:47sources mention is to avoid isolated, unlit stretches of the
- 43:51Riverside parks after midnight, but they specifically clarify
- 43:54this is because of rowdy, drunk teenagers hanging out, not
- 43:57predatory targeted crime. And for families traveling with
- 44:00children, the rating is also excellent.
- 44:03Yes, you have totally pedestrianized streets so kids
- 44:06can run ahead safely. You have the funicular railway,
- 44:10which is basically a giant toy train for a toddler.
- 44:12You have a local zoo. The health infrastructure is
- 44:15also top notch. Countess is home to the
- 44:18country's largest teaching hospital.
- 44:20And I need to explain something for our UK and EU listeners.
- 44:25If you have a medical emergency, you are fully covered by your
- 44:28GHIC or EIC cards. That is a crucial detail.
- 44:32The Global Health Insurance Card for Brits and the European
- 44:34Health Insurance Card for EU citizens means you receive state
- 44:38provided healthcare at the exact same cost as a local resident,
- 44:41which is often free. It is a massive safety net.
- 44:44Also, regarding the language barrier, essentially anyone
- 44:47under the age of 40 speaks completely fluent English.
- 44:50The older generations, especially outside the central
- 44:53tourist zones, might only speak Lithuanian and Russian, but a
- 44:56smile and a translation app go a long way.
- 44:58Which naturally brings us to the actual subjective experience on
- 45:01the ground. Beyond the costs and the
- 45:03logistics, what are the actual emotional highlights and what
- 45:06are the honest disappointments? Right, let's get to the soul of
- 45:09the trip. What is the absolute best moment
- 45:12you can have in Countess? According to our deep dive of
- 45:15traveler reports, it is standing at the top of the Conness Castle
- 45:19ruins at 9:00 PM in late June. You are looking down, watching
- 45:23the Namunas and nearest rivers physically merge together right
- 45:26below you. The medieval Old Town is spread
- 45:29out behind you. The sky is that silvery, long
- 45:32lasting Baltic twilight, and there are absolutely no other
- 45:35tourists around. You have an entire European
- 45:38castle to yourself. That is the exact moment the
- 45:40city justifies the flight. Other authentic, undeniably
- 45:43great hits include the Pajama Costly's Monastery.
- 45:45This is a sprawling 17th century Italian baroque complex situated
- 45:50on a peninsula on the eastern edge of the city.
- 45:52The architecture is stunning, it feels like it was airlifted out
- 45:55of Florence and dropped into a northern pine forest.
- 45:57And the entry fee is only €4.00, which honestly feels like they
- 46:00forgot to add a zero to the ticket price.
- 46:02Euros is crazy. Then there is the MK Early Onus
- 46:06National Museum of Art, dedicated to Lithuania's
- 46:08greatest symbolist artist and composer.
- 46:11There is the Anashi Riverside for grabbing a craft beer at the
- 46:14Cultura Bar and having an incredible industrial chic
- 46:17dinner at a place like Newman. And then there is the 9th Fort.
- 46:21The 9th Fort requires serious discussion.
- 46:23It is a massive concrete fortification on the edge of the
- 46:27city that was used as a site of mass execution during the Nazi
- 46:30occupation and a transit prison for deportations to the gulags
- 46:34during the Soviet occupation. It is an incredibly heavy,
- 46:36sobering memorial. You walk through these cold,
- 46:38damp concrete cells and you see the massive the Brutalist
- 46:42monument erected on the site. It is emotionally exhausting.
- 46:45But we need to look at the contrast between those sites to
- 46:48understand the region. You have the serene
- 46:51architectural perfection of the Pach Isley's monastery,
- 46:53representing faith and art. And then you have the heavy,
- 46:56unimaginable emotional weight of the Ninth Fort Memorial,
- 46:59representing the absolute darkest chapters of the 20th
- 47:02century. You need the stark contrast of
- 47:05both to truly begin to understand Lithuanian history.
- 47:08It is a country that has built and preserved incredible beauty,
- 47:12but has also endured immense, repeated historical trauma.
- 47:15You cannot just consume the cheap beer and the pretty
- 47:18buildings without acknowledging the blood in the soil.
- 47:21Yeah. We need to sit with that for a
- 47:23second because you are right. To travel responsibly means to
- 47:26witness the full spectrum of a place, the dark as well as the
- 47:29light. OK, transitioning to something
- 47:32much lighter, What about the things you can skip?
- 47:35The overhyped stuff. The sources consistently point
- 47:38to the Devil's Museum. It is a museum filled entirely
- 47:41with thousands of carved wooden statues of devils.
- 47:44Kids apparently love it, but it has an 8 euro entry fee and the
- 47:47consensus is that it tires very quickly.
- 47:50I have to question the appeal here.
- 47:51It sounds so quirky, so weird, so perfect for an ironic
- 47:55Instagram post. But you're saying the novelty
- 47:57wears off before you even hit the gift shop?
- 47:59Precisely. It is a curiosity, not a
- 48:01masterpiece. Once you have seen 50 carved
- 48:04wooden devils of varying sizes, you have essentially grasped the
- 48:08premise. Seeing 3000 more does not deepen
- 48:10the experience. The same logic applies to the
- 48:13famous Hill of Crosses. It is a visually striking
- 48:15pilgrimage site, but it is located 90 minutes north of the
- 48:18city. Renting a car or taking a series
- 48:20of buses to dedicate a whole day to see it is generally
- 48:22considered not worth the logistical effort if your
- 48:24primary base is con us. And the biggest honest
- 48:28disappointment of the city? The nightlife.
- 48:30It is thin. The city closes early.
- 48:33There is definitely some youthful energy on Thursdays and
- 48:36Fridays at the student bars near the local university, but if you
- 48:39are coming to the Baltics expecting the massive multi
- 48:42story club variety of a place like Riga or Tallinn, you're
- 48:45going to be severely disappointed.
- 48:48Which naturally leads us to the ultimate question for any
- 48:51traveler planning a trip to this region, how does Kunis actually
- 48:54compared to those famous alternatives?
- 48:56Let's do a direct head to head comparison alternative #1
- 49:00Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, is only 80 minutes
- 49:03away by train. The pros of choosing Vilnius has
- 49:06way more restaurant variety, a much livelier nightlife scene, a
- 49:10massive UNESCO World Heritage Old Town, better international
- 49:13flight connections and the famous Ehupis district.
- 49:16We should clarify what ehupis is for the listener.
- 49:19It is a neighborhood in Vilnius that declared itself an
- 49:21independent artist for Republic, complete with its own
- 49:23constitution, which includes rules like a dog has the right
- 49:27to be a dog. It is a bohemian haven.
- 49:29It sounds amazing, but the Cons of Vilnius, as we established at
- 49:33the very beginning, it is exactly 21% more expensive than
- 49:36Countess, period. The dynamic here is clear.
- 49:39Vilnius is the classic first timers destination.
- 49:42It is built for the weekend party crowd, the luxury hotel
- 49:45seeker or someone who just wants to check off a major European
- 49:48capital. Canas is for the second timers.
- 49:51It is for the modernist architecture nerds, the history
- 49:54buffs and the strict budget purists.
- 49:57Alternative #2 Riga, the capital of Latvia to the north.
- 50:00It is a three hour bus ride from Kaunas and cost about €20 to get
- 50:04there. Pros of Riga It feels like a
- 50:06much, much bigger city. It has an incredible sprawling
- 50:10art nouveau corridor, a proper waterfront and a very strong,
- 50:13aggressive nightlife scene. Pons Riga runs 30 to 40% more
- 50:17expensive than Kaunas on basic hotels and dining.
- 50:19This comparison is a perfect textbook example of Second City
- 50:23Syndrome. Think of the dynamic between
- 50:25Porto and Lisbon in Portugal, or Osaka and Tokyo in Japan.
- 50:30The capital city, Riga Vilnius, Lisbon gets the massive
- 50:33international corporate money, the political Polish and the
- 50:36inevitable inflation. The second city, Countess Porto
- 50:40Osaka, retains the working class grit, the hyperlocal culture and
- 50:44the vital affordability. Qantas fully embraces its second
- 50:48tier status, which actually acts as a shield, protecting it from
- 50:51the Disneyfication and homogenization we see in so many
- 50:53European capitals today. So I asked you, the listener, to
- 50:56make the call. Do you want polished, big and
- 50:59expensive like Riga? Or do you want slightly gritty,
- 51:02deeply authentic and cheap like Qantas?
- 51:04To help you make that final decision, let's bring all of our
- 51:07data together into the Is It Worth It matrix.
- 51:09Let's deliver the final definitive verdicts based on our
- 51:12specific Traveler profiles. Profile 1 The Backpacker The
- 51:16verdict is a massive yes. At €38 a day with €55 flights
- 51:21and the absolute genius of the Dianas Pattias lunch act, this
- 51:24is without question one of the top value destinations remaining
- 51:27in the entire European Union. Profile to the mid range couple
- 51:32again yes, €75 a day buys you stays in 18th century character
- 51:36hotels, 16 euro wild boar dinners and zero financial
- 51:39stress. The new 12% VAT hike barely even
- 51:42moves the math for you and. What is the verdict for family?
- 51:45For families, it's a yes, but with conditions.
- 51:48It is a fantastic destination if your kids are slightly older,
- 51:51able to walk a few miles a day and will enjoy riding the
- 51:54funicular and visiting the zoo. But you have to be realistic.
- 51:58It is not a sandy beach destination and it's not a theme
- 52:01park destination. If you have screaming toddlers
- 52:04who need constant high energy entertainment, there are better
- 52:07places in Europe for you. Now for the luxury traveler, the
- 52:11verdict is a hard, undeniable NO.
- 52:15The ceiling is €220 a night. There are no five star
- 52:18international brands, no Michelin star tasting menus, no
- 52:21VIP velvet ropes. If you weren't pure,
- 52:24unadulterated luxury, skip conness and go to Vilnius
- 52:27instead. And I must reiterate that NO for
- 52:29Luxury travelers is the absolute secret to the city's ongoing
- 52:33success. By not possessing the
- 52:35infrastructure to offer ultra luxury, Konus keeps its real
- 52:38estate and hospitality prices grounded.
- 52:40It doesn't trigger the aggressive real estate
- 52:42speculation and hyper gentrification that luxury
- 52:44global brands bring with them. It creates a beautiful
- 52:47self-sustaining loop of immense value for the middle and lower
- 52:50tiers. It is poetic, really.
- 52:52The beauty of the NO for the ultra rich is exactly why the
- 52:55backpacker and the digital nomad can thrive here.
- 52:58Oh, and Speaking of digital nomads, their final verdict is a
- 53:01resounding yes. To be able to live in a safe,
- 53:05vibrant European city for €1200 a month with world class digital
- 53:09infrastructure makes it a top tier base for remote work.
- 53:12It is a fascinating, perfectly balanced economic ecosystem.
- 53:16It really is. So let's wrap up this massive
- 53:19download of information. We have navigated the
- 53:22macroeconomics of the new VAT hikes.
- 53:24We have warned you in stark terms about the frozen January
- 53:28weather traps. We have painted a picture of the
- 53:30quiet beauty of the merging rivers at 9:00 PM.
- 53:34And we have paid our deep caloric respects to the
- 53:36structural engineering glory of the musty potato dumpling.
- 53:39We have covered the logistics from the moment you step out of
- 53:42the airport to the moment you leave.
- 53:43So I want to ask you directly, listener, which traveler are you
- 53:46in this matrix? Are you booking the three night
- 53:48stay in a brick vaulted 18th century hotel for a quiet
- 53:52weekend of history and culture? Or are you packing your laptop
- 53:55to set up shop for a month as a digital nomad in the emerging
- 53:59John A High District? As you make that decision, I
- 54:02want to leave you with one final, deeply provocative
- 54:05question to ponder. We have established today that
- 54:08the unique charm of Countess lies precisely in its lack of
- 54:11commercial Polish, it's strict cost realities and its total
- 54:15absence of international luxury brands.
- 54:17But if flight searches keep rising by 59% every single year,
- 54:21what happens next? By intentionally seeking out an
- 54:24untouched, authentic budget capital to appreciate its grit
- 54:27and it's cheap beer, do we as budget travelers inadvertently
- 54:30become the very catalyst that eventually destroys the city's
- 54:34affordability? It is the great paradox of
- 54:36modern travel, and it is something to Mull over the next
- 54:38time you find yourself sipping A1 Euro 30 local craft beer by
- 54:42the banks of the Nimanus River. A heavy philosophical thought to
- 54:45go with a very heavy meal. If this gave you the honest
- 54:48verdict you needed, follow the show.
- 54:50New episodes drop every day. That is the honest verdict from
- 54:53Phil and H.