Latest / The Front / Are we forgetting Kokoda?
Transcript
- 0:05Speaker 1: From The Australian, here's what's on the front. I'm Claire Harvey.
- 0:07Speaker 1: It's Friday, October 16, 2026. Labor voters are more likely
- 0:16Speaker 1: than coalition supporters to have a personal stake in a trust.
- 0:19Speaker 1: And that's bad news for Jim Chalmers, who's trying to
- 0:22Speaker 1: calm a backlash over his 30% minimum tax on all
- 0:27Speaker 1: trust income. That fresh analysis is live now at theaustralian.com.au. Fear,
- 0:35Speaker 1: exhaustion and elation combine on the 96-kilometre Kokoda Track, where
- 0:41Speaker 1: trekkers honour one of our greatest military victories. But is
- 0:45Speaker 1: this ultimate immersive experience being forgotten by Australians as tourist
- 0:50Speaker 1: numbers dwindle and Papua New Guinea is gripped by extreme
- 0:53Speaker 1: poverty and violence? Our own John Ferguson reports, fresh from
- 0:58Speaker 1: his own Kokoda adventure, and five kilos lighter than when
- 1:02Speaker 1: he set out.
- 1:12Speaker 2: Rain, sheeting down, every day, monotonously, falling from the tropic
- 1:18Speaker 2: skies as if the clouds had burst, turning the track
- 1:21Speaker 2: into a quagmire, adding a thousandfold to their difficulties. These
- 1:26Speaker 2: are grim pictures.
- 1:28Speaker 1: Kokoda 1942. This newsreel by legendary Australian photojournalist Damien Parra
- 1:34Speaker 1: won an Academy Award and it shows the horrific conditions
- 1:38Speaker 1: where a young Australian fighting force tried to repel a
- 1:41Speaker 1: vastly better armed and trained Japanese army.
- 1:45Speaker 3: If only everybody in Australia could realise that this country
- 1:49Speaker 3: is in peril, that the Japanese are a well-equipped and
- 1:52Speaker 3: dangerous enemy, we might forget about the trivial things... and
- 1:55Speaker 3: go ahead with the job of licking them.
- 2:00Speaker 1: John Ferguson is an associate editor with The Australian, and
- 2:04Speaker 1: he's recently returned from the scene of one of the
- 2:07Speaker 1: most important battles in Australia's military history. It's not dissimilar
- 2:11Speaker 1: from Anzac Cove or Gallipoli. It's the Battle of Isurava
- 2:15Speaker 1: in Papua New Guinea, part of the Kokoda Track campaign,
- 2:18Speaker 1: where a small force of Australians repelled Japanese forces. The
- 2:23Speaker 1: Battle of Isurava was actually a defeat. in August 1942,
- 2:26Speaker 1: where the Australians had to retreat. But the lessons learned
- 2:30Speaker 1: there and the evocative nature of what happened have shaped
- 2:35Speaker 1: Australian military strategy for the rest of World War II
- 2:38Speaker 1: and the decades since. John, what's it like now? What
- 2:41Speaker 1: is this arrival like to look at?
- 2:43Speaker 4: It's a very beautiful part of PNG. It's at the
- 2:47Speaker 4: Kokoda end of the Kokoda Track. It's probably our Equal
- 2:53Speaker 4: most important site for military history, I would argue, for
- 2:58Speaker 4: Australia because of, as you pointed out, it slowed the Japanese,
- 3:02Speaker 4: I suppose, advance and enabled our forces to regroup.
- 3:08Speaker 1: You've just walked the Kokoda Track. What was that experience
- 3:12Speaker 1: like and were you thinking about the actions of those
- 3:14Speaker 1: young men while you were walking?
- 3:16Speaker 4: Claire, it's really interesting. It's quite an emotional trip. It
- 3:19Speaker 4: took nine days. walked with about 18 scholarship winners, Year
- 3:25Speaker 4: 11 children from country Victoria, and you walk the history.
- 3:29Speaker 4: Everywhere you go, you can't avoid seeing and hearing about
- 3:33Speaker 4: what happened. And obviously a centrepiece of the whole 1942
- 3:39Speaker 4: battles in PNG was just the tough conditions. And when
- 3:43Speaker 4: you walk the Kokoda Track, you get an absolute, clear
- 3:47Speaker 4: understanding of the physical nature and the difficult conditions upon which,
- 3:52Speaker 4: you know, the soldiers fought, effectively saving Australia from an invasion.
- 3:57Speaker 4: So it's an extraordinary part of Australian military history. When
- 4:03Speaker 4: we walked it probably about eight weeks ago, PNG was
- 4:07Speaker 4: in the middle of a drought, so it was actually
- 4:09Speaker 4: quite dry. So we had quite a bit of luck,
- 4:12Speaker 4: but you can't escape the terrain like it's really tough
- 4:17Speaker 4: it's up and down it's a goat track it's very
- 4:20Speaker 4: steep the soldiers they had clearly the added problem of
- 4:25Speaker 4: carrying 30 kilograms of weight guns as the crow flies
- 4:30Speaker 4: it's 96 kilometers but it's actually the walk we did
- 4:32Speaker 4: was more than 130. It was interesting talking to the
- 4:37Speaker 4: scholarship winners they had developed certainly by the end a
- 4:42Speaker 4: deep empathy for what the Australians went through and, of course,
- 4:47Speaker 4: what are known as the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, the local
- 4:52Speaker 4: PNG people who basically had such a massive role in
- 4:57Speaker 4: helping the Australian troops.
- 4:59Speaker 1: You're a pretty fit bloke. You're a mountain biker. You're
- 5:01Speaker 1: a walker. How did you find it physically?
- 5:04Speaker 4: I trained really hard for it. You know, if anyone
- 5:07Speaker 4: who's listening to this has ambitions of walking the track,
- 5:10Speaker 4: you have to train hard. Age, I don't think up
- 5:14Speaker 4: to a certain point is a barrier, but if you
- 5:16Speaker 4: haven't done the work, then it's going to be really,
- 5:18Speaker 4: really painful. In fact, completely unenjoyable, you know, 29 degrees,
- 5:24Speaker 4: lots of humidity. Most people go, they will strike mud
- 5:27Speaker 4: if it rains and that then becomes dangerous and slippery.
- 5:32Speaker 4: You know, there are places where, you know, not many,
- 5:34Speaker 4: just a couple, two or three that if you fall off,
- 5:37Speaker 4: you're not going to come back. So it is a
- 5:39Speaker 4: mental challenge as well. It's interesting talking to you now.
- 5:43Speaker 4: I feel a little bit emotional about it. Certainly when
- 5:46Speaker 4: we got to Isharava, the stories there that we talked about,
- 5:50Speaker 4: people who died and brothers who were there together and
- 5:53Speaker 4: didn't make it. And it just makes it really real.
- 5:57Speaker 4: But because you put in so much effort to get there,
- 6:00Speaker 4: I think it adds to the experience.
- 6:04Speaker 1: When you're going through a physically arduous experience like that,
- 6:08Speaker 1: your emotions are heightened too and probably your sense of fear.
- 6:11Speaker 1: Did you feel fear about falling from high places and
- 6:16Speaker 1: what was in the jungle?
- 6:19Speaker 4: Look, I was absolutely fine. I don't like heights and
- 6:23Speaker 4: there's a sort of a track just the other side
- 6:26Speaker 4: of Brigade Hill which goes down into what is basically
- 6:31Speaker 4: an abyss. It's very narrow and you have to grab
- 6:33Speaker 4: a chain and you know, rowdy is if you sleep,
- 6:36Speaker 4: you're cooked. So that triggered, let's just say, a deeply
- 6:40Speaker 4: unpleasant feeling that lasted for the rest of the trip
- 6:43Speaker 4: of falling off the edge, which I just don't like.
- 6:45Speaker 4: But again, that's also part of it too. I was
- 6:47Speaker 4: quite proud of myself that you just got to keep going.
- 6:50Speaker 4: When you do these trips, you have to go with
- 6:53Speaker 4: a licensed operator. And my porter was very, carrier was,
- 6:57Speaker 4: they're very onto things. They know when The old white
- 7:01Speaker 4: fella from a Melbourne office is not travelling that well.
- 7:04Speaker 4: So Willie Benjamin was his name, terrific bloke. And I
- 7:09Speaker 4: developed a bond with him as well. And that's a
- 7:11Speaker 4: very nice thing because you get to learn about life
- 7:14Speaker 4: in PNG and PNG is very close to being a
- 7:18Speaker 4: failed state. As we kind of know, but it's only
- 7:21Speaker 4: when you look at it and you see the level
- 7:23Speaker 4: of poverty and the dysfunction and you can only imagine
- 7:28Speaker 4: the corruption that that is centred on PNG. And it's
- 7:32Speaker 4: right on Australia's doorstep. So I think journalists owe it
- 7:35Speaker 4: to the community to be writing a lot more about PNG,
- 7:39Speaker 4: I think.
- 7:41Speaker 5: Papua New Guinea will enter the NRL competition in a
- 7:44Speaker 5: $ 600 million expansion to rugby league. Prime Minister Anthony Albanese
- 7:49Speaker 5: is backing a 10-year funding plan for PNG.
- 7:52Speaker 1: Australia is throwing a huge amount of money at Papua
- 7:54Speaker 1: New Guinea. We're contributing to the start of a rugby
- 7:57Speaker 1: league team there that's all part of our soft diplomacy
- 7:59Speaker 1: in the Pacific to try to ward off China.
- 8:02Speaker 5: These treaties represent one of the most significant endeavours Australia
- 8:07Speaker 5: has ever undertaken in our history with any country.
- 8:12Speaker 2: The agreement sets out to better integrate the Australian and
- 8:15Speaker 2: Papua New Guinea Defence Forces and even allows each to
- 8:19Speaker 2: recruit troops from the other countries.
- 8:22Speaker 1: We're also spending quite a lot of taxpayers' money on Kokoda.
- 8:25Speaker 1: But is that money getting to where it should be getting?
- 8:28Speaker 1: And is the track being upkept as it should be, John?
- 8:32Speaker 4: Yeah, well, so Charlie Lynn, the former Liberal MP, is
- 8:37Speaker 4: a really big figure in bringing Kokoda back. He's very
- 8:41Speaker 4: critical of the lack of resources, and I tend to
- 8:46Speaker 4: agree with him. I think a lot more can be
- 8:48Speaker 4: done for the villages, but also to make Kokoda and
- 8:54Speaker 4: other places in PNG accessible, and particularly there's a dearth
- 8:59Speaker 4: of military history when you pass through a lot of
- 9:03Speaker 4: really significant areas. It's run by the Kokoda Track Authority,
- 9:07Speaker 4: which is PNG run, but I think it's very clear
- 9:10Speaker 4: that more could be done to make the experience, I suppose,
- 9:15Speaker 4: achievable but also intellectually stimulating and informative for One of
- 9:20Speaker 4: the issues that Mr. Lin talks about is the drop
- 9:24Speaker 4: in demand, the lower numbers of trekkers since that peak
- 9:29Speaker 4: in 2008. So that becomes quite interesting, doesn't it? Because
- 9:34Speaker 4: are we in a phase now where those great parts
- 9:38Speaker 4: of our history, such as Kokoda and Gallipoli, and maybe
- 9:42Speaker 4: even the Western Front, which is a bit more accessible,
- 9:44Speaker 4: but are we entering a period where there's going to
- 9:47Speaker 4: be less interest and How do we as a country
- 9:51Speaker 4: make sure that we can educate younger people about the
- 9:55Speaker 4: importance and then give them the opportunity to go to
- 9:58Speaker 4: these places and feel what it was like or see
- 10:02Speaker 4: what it was like for soldiers from World War I
- 10:04Speaker 4: and World War II. Over time, the next 20 years,
- 10:07Speaker 4: 25 years, who's going to be prosecuting the arguments for
- 10:12Speaker 4: remembering what these soldiers did, what they suffered for? It's
- 10:17Speaker 4: a pretty important issue. National question, isn't it, Claire?
- 10:21Speaker 1: Yeah, I mean, it's on us, of course, isn't it?
- 10:23Speaker 1: And I've thought that about, you know, the Gallipoli Peninsula
- 10:26Speaker 1: or other places, as you say, on the Western Front.
- 10:28Speaker 1: You know, there are museums and there are kind of
- 10:32Speaker 1: displays and there are statues and so on, but there's
- 10:34Speaker 1: nothing as immersive as, you know, spending 10 days living
- 10:39Speaker 1: in fear of falling and worrying about your safety and
- 10:44Speaker 1: going through a gastro. I mean, that is the ultimate experience,
- 10:47Speaker 1: isn't it?
- 10:48Speaker 4: Oh, look, I think it is. Like I found it
- 10:51Speaker 4: so immersive. I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone who
- 10:55Speaker 4: wants to test themselves physically, but also play a role
- 11:00Speaker 4: in supporting the history and the efforts of those in 1942.
- 11:06Speaker 1: I was also impressed to note that you lost five kilos, John.
- 11:09Speaker 1: Who needs Ozempic when you can just go and thrash
- 11:11Speaker 1: yourself to death on the Kokoda track?
- 11:13Speaker 4: Yeah, just go and get gastro and walk the Kokoda
- 11:15Speaker 4: track and you'll lose five. Unfortunately, I put three back on.
- 11:18Speaker 1: You have to go back.
- 11:21Speaker 3: Yes, exactly.
- 11:22Speaker 1: Thank you, John, very much.
- 11:24Speaker 3: Thank you, Claire.
- 11:30Speaker 1: John Ferguson is an associate editor with The Australian. You
- 11:33Speaker 1: can read about his Kokoda experience in The Australian's weekend
- 11:36Speaker 1: magazine and at theaustralian.com.au.