What If You’ve Been Peeling Away the Best Part of Your Asparagus?
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Right now, across Austria, something is happening that most Americans have never seen. Farmers are pulling thick white asparagus spears out of mounded soil, each one grown entirely in the dark, never touched by sunlight, never given the chance to produce chlorophyll. They are as fat as a thumb and pale as bone. And for the next few weeks, they will dominate menus from Vienna to Munich the way lobster dominates a New England summer.
Chef Martin Oswald brought a pile of them to today’s live session, and the first thing he did was hold…
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