Latest / The Sheppertonian (for Shepperton village) / 👑 David Packer: Hampton Court Tour Guide
Transcript
- 1:21So I'm wandering around Fountain Court, the William and Mary Baroque part, the Christopher Wren Park, a space I've been in scores of times alone at night.
- 1:30And I've wandered just right the way around and I was at the far corner.
- 1:34I didn't hear anything, I didn't see anything.
- 1:38I suddenly just felt an absolute dread.
- 1:50Ooh, hello and sorry about that.
- 1:53Welcome to the Sheppartonian.
- 1:55I'm Gareth and this is the local.
- 1:57Podcast bringing you stories and voices from in and around Shepparton.
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- 2:48Hampton Court palace is 20 minutes down the road and I bet most of us have done exactly the same thing there.
- 2:55Park, queue in through the gate, look at the great hall.
- 2:58Home by 4.
- 3:00My guest has been at that palace for more than 20 years.
- 3:04He started as a warder, ended up its youngest ever supervisor and spent 15 of those years walking people around it in the dark.
- 3:12He runs his own tours now.
- 3:14The newest one doesn't go inside.
- 3:16So I went and found David Packer in a pub by the palace gates.
- 3:20That turns out to be part of the story.
- 3:23So, David, welcome to the Sheppartonian.
- 3:25We are sitting, if you can hear lots of plates clanking, floorboards creaking.
- 3:29During this episode, we are sitting in the mitre and David, perhaps you could tell us a little bit about this place.
- 3:39Well, the Mitre is very, very much part of the history of the area.
- 3:43It dates from 1665.
- 3:45It's a child of the Restoration, when Charles II actually holds his honeymoon at Hampton Court palace.
- 3:53And he's maybe not one of the kings more associated with the palace, but he is very much part of his history.
- 3:59And he gives one of his supporters, General George Monck, who is the Duke of Albemarle, he gives permission to one of his servants to build the building that we're in now.
- 4:12And it grows out of the need to service courtiers and visitors to the palace.
- 4:17And it's still doing that today.
- 4:19Fantastic.
- 4:20With police cars going past.
- 4:21Absolutely brilliant.
- 4:24Yeah.
- 4:24You very kindly invited a few of us on your new tour, which was very kind of you.
- 4:30Absolutely fascinating.
- 4:31Where did the idea come from and at what point did you realize there was a tour outside of the palace walls?
- 4:38Well, the idea's been percolating, I think, for quite a while.
- 4:41Certainly back before COVID I'd been doing some research for a local pub which, back when it was still alive, the King's Arms published proper Old Early 18th century coaching in pretty much the works pub for the palace.
- 4:56For many years.
- 4:58I was doing research on stories from there from the 19th century, which they were a number and obviously I already knew, particularly from the works of Gerald and Joan Heath.
- 5:10We all stand on the shoulders of giants and they were epic local historians.
- 5:16And so I knew a lot about how the palace had driven the evolution of the area immediately around it.
- 5:24In fact, very much so.
- 5:25More than most places, many places have a particular thing that they grow around.
- 5:31And the non existent village of Hampton Court is, unsurprisingly, Hampton Court Palace.
- 5:36But these stories gave much more of a human angle to the, oh, this was built in 1665 element, which is fine, and people expect that, but they also want to hear about people.
- 5:49And so marrying those two together seemed natural.
- 5:52And being the Olympic standard procrastinator that I am, it took some years to actually get myself in gear to put it together and then start to offer it out to good folk like yourself.
- 6:06I guess procrastination is one thing, but also gathering those stories as well.
- 6:11You must have been discovering these things as you went along as well.
- 6:14Absolutely you do.
- 6:15And as with any good tour, it's editing.
- 6:20There is far more than you can ever really put together in one comfortable tour.
- 6:25And you do want to have some degree of narrative thread through as well, because if it's too scattergun, people will get lost.
- 6:34But on the other hand, it doesn't need to be one coherent story because the area itself is the story.
- 6:40So without giving too much away, people visiting the palace, because that's the main attraction around here, what are some of.
- 6:47The things that they're missing on the.
- 6:48Way to the gate?
- 6:49I think the big thing that people miss is quite often what they've either come over by car or by foot, if they're parked up at the station is the bridge.
- 7:01It's 1930s, but it was deliberately designed to be part of the intro to the palace.
- 7:08Sir Edwin Lutyens was involved in the design of the exterior at least, and he has not just taken inspiration from the palace, but made the bridge part of that walk in.
- 7:20And a lot of people aren't noticing that as they're coming into the palace.
- 7:25Could you give us a.
- 7:26Not a little walking tour of the walking tour, roughly the area that you cover and obviously it's fairly immediate around the palace.
- 7:35But what are the kind of sights that you take in?
- 7:38Well, it is a fairly tight little tour.
- 7:41It starts over on the Surrey side at the.
- 7:44The foot of the bridge, looking at the history of where the palace is.
- 7:49It's all location, location, location, close enough to London to be handy, far enough away to be pleasant.
- 7:56We can then go over the bridge looking at the area immediately outside Trophy Gate and the palace with the building that we're in now, the mitre from 1665 and the mute swan and the buildings that grew out again
- 8:12grew out of servicing the palace and people out the palace and then around past a couple of blue plaques and to the Royal Muse, which again was an extension of the palace where the animals were housed.
- 8:26And then over onto the grain, around the grain and then not finally because we come back more or less to where we started, but then to the north side of the palace, which used to be a really bustling
- 8:36area and now is somewhat sadly neglected.
- 8:39But many great stories there, where the King's Arms is and the bushy park just over the road and then just back round the palace so that people can, by this point, after an hour and a half or so
- 8:53in my company, get some well earned refreshment.
- 8:57So what can you say outside those palace walls that you, you can't necessarily say inside the palace walls?
- 9:04Well, to a degree you need to be outside in that landscape to properly describe it.
- 9:11You can talk about it inside the palace, but it doesn't mean very much unless people know the area very well, which of course most of the visitors don't.
- 9:19But also, and this leads in possibly to a question yet to come inside the palace, you have to be very careful during the day when you are amongst all sorts and conditions of people and particularly lots of kids
- 9:33around.
- 9:34And if you are veering into the stories that are a little bit more post 9 o' clock watershed, so long as you aren't within earshot of a school group on its way to or from the palace, you can
- 9:45be a little bit more unguarded there than you might be inside the palace.
- 9:50The Spooky stories that come attached to a building like Hampton Court Palace.
- 9:55We've probably heard a few in our time.
- 9:57But how do they get passed along?
- 9:59And what kind of stories have you heard?
- 10:02Well, I've heard a great many of them, and often the same stories, but coming from very different angles, which is one of the fascinating things about them.
- 10:10I mean, we did 15 years of ghost tours and we all told the same stories and then spoken to a number of people that have come on the ghost tours more than once and said they had entirely different
- 10:21experiences with different guides.
- 10:23Because we come at the stories from different angles and tell them in different ways.
- 10:27And that is very much the secret of the ghost stories is they're part of verbal history.
- 10:32They do get written down.
- 10:33And we do look particularly at 19th century newspapers are often a source for the ghost stories.
- 10:40And a lot of the ghost stories really do seem to be 19th century creations, as it were.
- 10:45But also you get events at the palace, things.
- 10:48Things that happen to people there that people talk about.
- 10:52And of course, you then get the inevitable evolution of those stories.
- 10:56And there's a fascinating event right at the beginning of the palace's history as a formal tourist attraction, at the beginning of Queen Victoria's reign when it's first opened and there is a murder in the courtyards, very dramatic, very
- 11:10well documented, both in the Old Bailey records and in the newspapers at the time.
- 11:14You'd think that'd be a shoo in to create one of the better ghost stories.
- 11:19And yet I've only found one little reference 60 years later in a newspaper, a syndicated newspaper report by an American journalist who is told by a member of staff what is clearly that story, but garbled and with certain
- 11:36details changed.
- 11:39And in fact, we did use that story one season.
- 11:42We told that story on the spot where the murder happened, but we never did it again.
- 11:47We dropped it because too many of the guides felt they had experiences telling that story and felt more than just a cold douche down the spine when they were telling it.
- 12:00Also, it wasn't a great ghost story.
- 12:03The actual historic.
- 12:04In that case, the history is far more exciting than the actual ghost story that it gave rise to.
- 12:10Yeah.
- 12:11So are there stories that you're asked about most of the time or were asked about?
- 12:16Definitely the Haunted Gallery, which is Katherine Hard allegedly trying to get Henry VIII to plead for her life.
- 12:25We're asked about that one a lot.
- 12:26I used to say sometimes that's kind of the Disney story.
- 12:30When you bear in mind the ghost tours we did were A two hour show effectively and we could have done another one and not repeated a story.
- 12:38But what's very interesting is a lot of people know that there is a story but their idea of what it is, they get the wrong queen.
- 12:45It's all very garbled.
- 12:47I mean that story about the, the first murder, you were saying tour guides were affected by that.
- 12:52Have you experienced things yourself and how did you feel about those things at the time?
- 12:58I've had a few experiences.
- 13:00None of them are classic, seeing a ghost or anything like that.
- 13:05But I think probably the best one to relate is one that happened to me about 2 or 3 in the morning.
- 13:12I bet it's spooky in there at 2 or 3 in the morning.
- 13:15Oh if you, if you, if you aren't affected by being in that building on your own at night, then you don't have an imagination.
- 13:23And sometimes perhaps if you have to patrol it alone at night, it's better not to.
- 13:26But by and large and I've, I've been there supervised functions, we used to sleepovers and I've worked as a security water there as well.
- 13:37So I've done patrols there at night.
- 13:39I've been there overnight many a time and off and generally speaking I've never had a problem.
- 13:44You feel an atmosphere and a thrill perhaps at times in particular feeling of you're working there.
- 13:51You're as much a legitimate part of its history as the people that were there 500 years ago.
- 13:57But one time I was there with a colleague and we were basically looking after Kate Botley and she was spending the night and she genuinely did spend the night in what was Anne Boleyn's receiving chamber in the Berlin
- 14:10Tower.
- 14:11And we were spending the night awake obviously in case she needed anything in the old retail workers mess room which was just a floor down.
- 14:21And about 2, 3 in the morning I just needed to go and stretch my legs.
- 14:25It was October, it was a wild and woolly night and I went for a wander around the courtyards.
- 14:30A great way to start a story.
- 14:31Oh absolutely.
- 14:34Oh, and the palace does.
- 14:36It's a five and a half acre building that's the oldest bits of 500 years old.
- 14:40It reacts to the atmosphere very much.
- 14:44And so I'm wandering around Fountain Court, the William and Mary Burrough part, the Christopher Wren part, a space I've been in scores of times alone at night and I've wandered just right the way around and I was at
- 14:56the far corner.
- 14:58I didn't hear anything, I didn't see anything.
- 15:02I suddenly Just felt an absolute dread for.
- 15:10No, I wasn't reacting to anything that I was aware of.
- 15:14As I said, didn't see anything, didn't hear anything.
- 15:16I just thought, I don't want to be here.
- 15:19Or possibly something doesn't want me to be here.
- 15:22And I scuttled back to the mess room very quickly.
- 15:28That's the only time I've been at the palace in one way or another since 2003.
- 15:34And that's the only time in over 20 years that I think I've actually changed what I was doing because of something like that.
- 16:29So you've experienced it yourself?
- 16:31Other guides have experienced things.
- 16:33You take a lot from reports.
- 16:36And you mentioned the Old Bailey.
- 16:39Where does the line sit between the history and the legend?
- 16:43Good question.
- 16:45If you ever find out.
- 16:47I suppose some of it is just passing on stories, isn't it?
- 16:50It is.
- 16:50I mean, one of.
- 16:51One of the lines.
- 16:52I've used both for the ghost tours and also we did do some seasons of evening tours almost as a counterpart.
- 17:00Some were counterparts of the ghost tours where we were telling the more adult stories that we can't tell when the kiddies are around, involving sex and sexuality, rumors about William III and stuff.
- 17:14And people would often say, are these stories true?
- 17:16To which the answer is it's true that they're stories.
- 17:20We are relating what people have said.
- 17:23We're not saying that what they said was true.
- 17:26My personal line on William III is maybe he was gay, maybe he was bi, maybe he wasn't anything in particular.
- 17:32But it's absolutely true that, that people in his day said that he was gay.
- 17:37But then he was a man with a lot of enemies.
- 17:40And at the time it was a very serious thing to accuse somebody of.
- 17:44But then also, I think with somewhere the size and complexity of Hampton Court, there will always be different schools of thought.
- 17:52And I do think it's permissible to give a story the benefit of the doubt unless and until you find for definite that something is wrong.
- 18:03Again, just once a colleague of my boss at the time and myself were doing a two handed special one off ghost tour at midnight and we included a rather dark but rather wonderful story.
- 18:16But then I did some research on it and I couldn't find what really there would have been evidence of the events that it retells in local newspapers.
- 18:26Went to Richmond Library and also we then found that the provenance for the story was one ghostwriter in a single book.
- 18:34And it turns out he'd taken it from a work of fiction, which is why it was such A good story.
- 18:42As soon as we found that out, we dropped it.
- 18:44How did you end up doing this at all?
- 18:47Well, essentially, I was born and brought up in Southall and Left School at 16 and became a printing apprentice in a factory, Crown Cork in Scotts Road in Southall, and spent a little bit over 20 years in that
- 19:03apprentice and journeyman.
- 19:05And then the factory was shut down, it was made redundant.
- 19:08I spent almost exactly a year unemployed and I was living at Hounslow at the time.
- 19:13And there's a single bus 111 down to Hampton Court and I had a Boughtman's End, a season ticket, and I was visiting quite frequently and got to know a number of the people, the warders on the routes and
- 19:27long story short, applied for a job, got a job and became, at the time, and it says a lot, I was in my 30s and I was one of the youngest warders.
- 19:38Three years later, became the youngest ever supervisor.
- 19:41And the job, particularly as a supervisor later team leader, involves delivering tours, sometimes a very short notice, for vehicles, VIPs.
- 19:49Most memorably, the late, great Joan Rivers.
- 19:53Yeah.
- 19:53You know when you get those situations where you say yes to something and then you go, oh, what have I done?
- 19:59She was marvelous.
- 19:59She was.
- 20:00She was exactly the woman you saw on the television.
- 20:02That wasn't an act in any way, shape or form.
- 20:04That was her.
- 20:05There can't be many people in the world who can say that they've given an historical tour to Joan Rivers.
- 20:13She was magnificent as well.
- 20:15Performers and politicians usually more used to talking than listening.
- 20:19But no, she asked really good questions.
- 20:21She was genuinely interested, she was hilarious.
- 20:24And gloriously, there was at the time, in live interpretation, we had a King, Henry VIII every day.
- 20:32One of them is a good friend of mine, Richard Evans, who still does that on occasion.
- 20:37And then there was a guy called Tony Harris, who is a wonderful light entertainer in his own right.
- 20:42And he saw us and when he finished, he didn't change.
- 20:46He's still in beautiful golden white Henry VIII costume.
- 20:50And he tracked us down.
- 20:51He's going around to all the waters going, where's Packer?
- 20:53Where's Packer?
- 20:54And he found us in the closets in King William's private apartments.
- 20:59And he strides in and he's about half as tall again as Joan and he's, madam, can we talk?
- 21:05She was absolutely delighted.
- 21:07So it was as well a precious memory.
- 21:10Definitely.
- 21:11I've also had the huge pleasure and privilege of being with a chap called Mark Wallace, being the historical advisor to the Royal Shakespeare Company when they put Wolf hall and bring up the bodies on the stage back in
- 21:242013.
- 21:25That would have been, I think, and teaching and training boarders to guide and develop, helping develop those tours and other tours.
- 21:32So it was a natural progression to do it in its own right, as it were, just to concentrate on being a guide.
- 21:38The best question you've ever been asked and the worst.
- 21:44Now, the best question, definitely, if you could have a night in a pub with a king or Queen of England, who would it be?
- 21:51Oh, wow, in a heartbeat.
- 21:53Charles ii.
- 21:54Why Charles ii?
- 21:55Oh, you'd have a great time.
- 21:56You wouldn't remember it.
- 21:58You'd probably end up chained to a lampposting crew or something.
- 22:01I wouldn't trust him any further than I could throw him, but he's one of the most human, one of the most attractive people that sit on the throne.
- 22:08And, yeah, I think you would have fun having a night out with Charles.
- 22:14The worst, it's difficult to say a specific one, but obviously Handicot palace is still Crown property.
- 22:22The Chapel Royal is still one of His Majesty's churches.
- 22:26And people would sometimes try and draw you on the current royal family and that could be a little bit difficult.
- 22:36Also questions where the question itself tells you that the person is, shall we say, laboring under a misapprehension or has a very particular, very strong view.
- 22:47And if you're going to answer the question honestly and accurately, you're going to be going counter to that which people, interestingly, how upset people can be when you tell them that, no, Henry VIII didn't die of syphilis.
- 23:02Why people should be so wedded to the idea.
- 23:06I know it used to be sort of common currency, but as certain as we can be that no, he dies of pulmonary embolism.
- 23:15But I guess a lot of the job is making sure that people have a good time as well.
- 23:19So you don't want to be upsetting the great.
- 23:22This is the thing.
- 23:24And in fact, coming back to the thing about where, where do you draw the line with stories?
- 23:29Now, there is a tradition that Jane Seymour's heart and in fact all her other visera are buried in a leadline silver casket under the altar.
- 23:40And now there are two school, two schools of thought on that.
- 23:44One that it was done, one that it wasn't, as far as I'm aware, it was done and there's no record of it being removed.
- 23:51So if I'm talking to somebody who wants to feel that connection to Jane Seymour, I'm not going to start getting too button policey.
- 24:00About it, as we used to say about, you know, Too anally accurate.
- 24:04Yeah, about these things.
- 24:05As long as you're not actually changing the history.
- 24:08Because with a building that covers over 500 years of history and 5, 5 and a half acres of ground and 1200 plus rooms or whatever, there's.
- 24:17There's going to be disagreements.
- 24:18Yeah.
- 24:19So, visitors to Hampton Court Palace.
- 24:22What would you want a visitor to look at just once next time they go.
- 24:27Something that is very much overlooked is, I think, my favorite exterior view of the palace.
- 24:35Everyone's familiar with the west front.
- 24:37A lot of people are familiar with the very different baroque east front.
- 24:41But if you go to the far corner of the rose garden from the palace and look back at the palace, you get this beautiful panorama of the great hall, the Tudor chimneys, the west gate.
- 24:54You're seeing the palace more from its practical angle, as it were.
- 24:59But it's like a Tudor town standing in front of you with the rose garden in between, which obviously in the summertime is glorious.
- 25:08So I think that's.
- 25:09That's something that I'd like more people to see.
- 25:11Yeah.
- 25:11Is that view from the rose garden.
- 25:13It's that old adage of stop and look up, isn't it?
- 25:16Absolutely.
- 25:17You know, just take a moment.
- 25:18Just stop what you're doing.
- 25:20Because it.
- 25:21It's all too tempting to.
- 25:22To rush around.
- 25:23I want to see everything.
- 25:24Absolutely.
- 25:25But just to take a moment to take it all in.
- 25:27Yeah, it's.
- 25:28It's.
- 25:29Yeah.
- 25:29Very good thing to do.
- 25:30It.
- 25:30It does.
- 25:30It takes time.
- 25:31That's the other thing with.
- 25:32Yeah, it can be quite depressing when people are going in.
- 25:36They're just ticking a box.
- 25:37Yeah.
- 25:38Coming full circle to your amazing tour, your new tour, that applies to outside as well, because the bridge is a means to get from A to B.
- 25:47But to stop on the bridge and to consider the history and consider the views and what it might have been like then and all the people in that history that have gone through it.
- 25:58It applies as much outside the palace as it does inside.
- 26:01Yes, yes, very much.
- 26:03The palace sits in a landscape.
- 26:04Yeah.
- 26:06And the two interact.
- 26:07Without the palace, very little of what's around there would be there.
- 26:11So how can people find this tour that you're about to start?
- 26:16When will it start?
- 26:18How can people book.
- 26:19Tell us the logistics of the tour?
- 26:22By the nature of the beast.
- 26:23It works much better in the evening because it's a busy area.
- 26:28When you're outside, you've got.
- 26:30As we've had here today, you've got traffic noise in the background and ambulances and police going past and all the rest of it.
- 26:37So it's a little bit quieter in the evening.
- 26:39So a summer's evening and next season I will be hopefully throwing it open properly.
- 26:45But I think we're not quite into the depths of winter yet.
- 26:48So back into September.
- 26:51October.
- 26:51October, hopefully.
- 26:53I think I could still carry on doing them but obviously it's rather weather dependent and I'm fairly waterproof and so long as the people are willing to carry on, I'm generally happy to put up a brolly or just
- 27:07carry on.
- 27:08So I think if people to get in touch with me directly, I'm quite happy to put the tour on for them.
- 27:14I haven't actually offered it on record regular times because it works better with a self selecting smaller group.
- 27:21I don't think you could do it with more than 10.
- 27:23Okay.
- 27:24But I've done it for couples so anything from one or two people to 10 people.
- 27:28Fantastic.
- 27:29And how can people get in touch with you directly?
- 27:32The email address is davidhamptoncourttours.com and they can email me.
- 27:39The best thing is if they have a time in mind, email me.
- 27:42And if they want to do a daytime one, if I'm available then I'll be happy to make it work.
- 27:48Fantastic.
- 27:49So the next time visitors to the palace or the Hampton Court area are there, what would you advise them to do?
- 27:55I would say one of the things because of the nature of the beast obviously a lot of people come see the palace and go certainly I would advise them to, particularly if they're here towards the end of the
- 28:09day, get out into the pubs and restaurants around Hampton Court is very much in a community.
- 28:16I've done some tours of the palace recently with small parties of American guests and twice I've ended up in the pub with them afterwards.
- 28:23And they don't need to be with me going to the pub, talk to the locals and experience the place as a living thing, as part of, as a landscape and a community.
- 28:34In the palace itself, I would say not just obviously they're going to see the Great hall, but when they're in the Great hall, give themselves some time to stop and look at the Abraham Tapestries.
- 28:45They're one of the very few sets of tapestries still in the room they were designed to hang in.
- 28:50And when they're looking at them, think that if you wanted to use your money to make that sort of powerful statement today through a piece of art, you'd pretty much have to go to Mr.
- 29:02Spielberg and say make me a movie.
- 29:06They are almost beyond our comprehension today in terms of their importance.
- 29:11That's amazing, David.
- 29:12Thank you so much for joining me.
- 29:14Thank you very much.
- 29:15Really interesting.
- 29:16Cheers.
- 29:17That was David Packer.
- 29:18The tour is about an hour and a half.
- 29:20You'll take anywhere from one person to 10.
- 29:23And it's better in the evening once the traffic has died down.
- 29:25There's no list of the dates to pick from.
- 29:27You just email him and you sort out a time.
- 29:30And that's deliberate.
- 29:31It's what keeps it small.
- 29:32So email davidhamptoncourttours.com that's in the show notes, so don't worry about writing it down.
- 29:39And look, if you've lived around here for years and never once stopped on that bridge, this is your excuse.
- 29:46Everybody goes to the Palace.
- 29:47The town that grew up around it is free and it's there all the time.
- 29:51Thanks again to the businesses in the business club.
- 29:54They keep this free for everyone and they keep it local.
- 29:57I'm Gareth.
- 29:58This has been the Sheppartonian.
- 29:59Until next time.
- 30:00I'll see you around.