Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / Stranger Things (S4) With Costume Designer, Amy Parris

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Stranger Things (S4) With Costume Designer, Amy Parris · The Art of Costume Podcast

0:12
While these actors have grown up with the show, which is
0:16
mind-blowing. I know to see them grow is.
0:20
I mean, do you watch them grow and you see them, you can these
0:22
amazing adults which is nice but then you also watch them grow.
0:25
You're like shoot how much more length is in those pants and
0:27
good. Hello and welcome to the Arctic
0:36
costume. Blogcast, I am co-president of
0:38
the hellfire club Spencer Williams.
0:43
I'm so excited to be here. Unfortunately, Elizabeth could
0:47
not, she is stuck somewhere in the upside down, but don't worry
0:51
Elizabeth. We're all looking for you
0:53
eventually. We will find you.
0:56
Maybe I'm so excited, we're in the middle of spooky.
1:00
And we've already done some great spooky films, but today's
1:04
episode really is one that's near and dear to my heart.
1:08
I've been working on doing a Stranger Things episode since
1:13
the third season of stranger thing, so it's been a little
1:15
while. So I being cats out of the bag,
1:18
today's episode is about stranger things.
1:20
Season for I am so excited. This season was so good.
1:27
Cash, so good. Daniel and Chloe.
1:29
Lee. We're actually here to visit me
1:31
when the season came out and we I mean we were supposed to be
1:35
doing other things, but we want to get home as soon as possible
1:38
and watch stranger things together.
1:40
It was so fun that this season was, by far my favorite.
1:43
I love how dark it got how emotional it was, how powerful
1:47
it was, and I'm just counting down the days until season 5
1:50
comes out honestly. But until then, let's talk about
1:55
season 4, let's go behind a wardrobe dive into the upside
1:59
down. Let's start with a summary,
2:02
still reeling from the events of last year to gang tries to move
2:05
on with their lives. However, a threat is brewing in
2:08
the upside down, set in March, 1986, the fourth season is split
2:12
between different plot lines and Hawkins several teenagers are
2:16
killed in mysterious ways. While in California Mike wheeler
2:20
visits 11 is friends but unfortunately the vacation ends
2:24
abruptly. Meanwhile Joyce buyers played by
2:27
the legendary Winona Ryder my hero.
2:29
Ow, Joyce learns that Jim Hopper may still be alive and makes a
2:33
trip to a lovely prison camp and Russia, and that is the summary
2:38
for season 4 of stranger things. Going behind a wardrobe, we have
2:42
costume designer, Amy Paris. My good friend we never met in
2:48
person but we're texting and messaging all the time, so happy
2:52
for her. I can't say congratulations
2:55
enough on this season so a notable work.
2:58
She has been assistant costume. Designer on some incredible
3:01
films, like a wrinkle in time. She also was a cyst on shows
3:05
such as Westworld, you all know, one of my favorite shows and
3:09
Masters of Sex. She was a costumer on the film
3:12
her and she was the costume designer on season 3 of stranger
3:16
things, which really? It was incredible.
3:20
Some of my favorite TV costumes of all time until season for
3:24
stranger things came out and also she has some upcoming
3:28
projects that I'm really excited.
3:29
Like for you all to find out about, with all this being said,
3:33
we have a credible episode for you all instead of listening to
3:37
me, go on, and, on about stranger things.
3:39
Why don't we hear from the Legend herself?
3:42
Costume designer? Amy Paris is here, everyone.
3:45
But first, we're going to take a quick little break, but when we
3:48
come back me and Amy are going to have a conversation about
3:51
season, for you are going to love her.
3:54
I promise this is going to be so much fun.
4:11
Hi. This is Dan.
4:13
Audio engineer of the blogcast? Just wanted to let you know
4:16
that. If you'd like to support the
4:17
show, you can become a patron at patreon.com slash the art of
4:23
costume. There.
4:24
We post, unheard bloopers highlights and bonus episodes,
4:29
just for our patrons. Make sure to check out the
4:32
description for all of our links and thank you for all of your
4:37
support. Maybe welcome to the podcast.
4:59
Thank you so much. Thank you for having me.
5:00
I'm so excited to finally talk to you.
5:02
We've been trying to meet up since the third season of
5:06
stranger things. It's been a long time coming.
5:08
It has been a long time coming and thank you for being so
5:10
gracious. And and asking me, I'm happy to
5:12
be a part of it. Of course, I'm so excited, okay.
5:16
The things season 4 was so good. My favorite season, for sure it
5:21
was dark, it was emotional as powerful, the 80s Vibes were
5:25
stronger than ever. It just was giving everything
5:28
and you even topped your costumes from season three.
5:32
So, congratulations. It's been a whirlwind.
5:36
That's a nice compliment. Thank you.
5:37
It was a hard season because of covid, especially, so there's a
5:41
lot of challenges and I was hoping we could top season 3.
5:44
So thank you for saying that right huh.
5:46
Long, were you guys on season four?
5:48
Must have been a long time. Yeah.
5:51
In total, it was about two years because there was a good six
5:55
months break that we had with covid.
5:57
So I think, yeah. It was like, basically two years
6:01
with a break. Yeah, it's crazy.
6:03
Josh. Well, it's season, four was all
6:06
about transition. You went through a lot.
6:09
The crew went through a lot and a character's went through a
6:12
lot. We now have our characters being
6:15
split between three different Kayson's Hawkins, California and
6:19
Russia. So just to start, what was this
6:23
challenge? Like was exciting.
6:24
Was it difficult to kind of split your costume mind in three
6:27
different directions? How did you tackle this?
6:30
Yeah, it was a big undertaking that that I think if I would
6:34
have, if this would have been my first season I would have been
6:36
even more daunted. Right, I started on season 3.
6:40
And so with this season, luckily I was a little bit more familiar
6:44
with the actors and the show Runners and Just the vibe of the
6:47
show and so I was able to kind of compartmentalize it and
6:51
develop color palettes and specifics within each location
6:56
so that it would be a quick way for the audience to know where
6:58
we're not that they wouldn't know.
7:00
But just an even quicker, like, obvious way of knowing where
7:03
they were, when we'd see these people in different areas.
7:06
So, when we ended up starting, I think we started with episode
7:10
three and four really, we kind of we block shoot it.
7:13
So you do two episodes at once and we were out of order.
7:16
And covid happened. And then we were really kind of
7:18
all over the place, trying to get as much done.
7:21
So it's a major Whiplash on that one major.
7:24
So that's a lot for my team and I to kind of like follow and
7:28
track but that also gives you more time to prepare for some
7:32
outfits, you know. So in some instances, it was
7:36
printing Fabric or weaving sweaters, for the Russia stuff.
7:42
For example, when we first started prep pre covid, they
7:46
sent me. In my supervisor, over to Poland
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because there's a great costume house out there called hero
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costume. And they did have some like
7:54
original Russian uniforms but not enough.
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So we asked them to make them for us and they were able to do
8:01
that. So the prep starts, you know,
8:04
ahead of time, and then it can carry through for months until,
8:08
for example, until those Russian uniforms were on camera.
8:10
So it's a lot. But you just got to, like, put
8:13
your head in the sand or put your head down to speak and then
8:15
just go for it. So much and I had it really
8:19
speaks to The Testament of how incredible your crew was as
8:22
well. I mean, this, there's a lot
8:23
happening in this season and it came together so seamlessly,
8:27
you'd have no idea that you all had the challenges that were
8:30
presented to you and other costume design teams.
8:33
Absolutely. I mean, that really threw a
8:35
wrench into the system. And then having Crews split up
8:38
in three different areas, you know, like Georgia for Hawkins,
8:41
New, Mexico, for California, and Lithuania for Russia.
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So I could have done it without such a good.
8:46
Good team and everybody in each location worked so hard.
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So I'm so grateful for all their help.
8:51
That's insane. Lots of FaceTime calls, I
8:53
assume, well, you and I love California.
9:00
So let's dive into California first.
9:03
It was so fun when I originally found out that the Hawkins crew
9:06
is moving to California, I was like this is perfect excited to
9:09
see it. Hmm.
9:11
I love the colors of their outfits, very highlighter.
9:14
Ask Mike comes Is it and he's in his best like LAX, Taurus
9:19
outfit, we have Jonathan's new friend Argyle who Flawless, love
9:25
him. So, talk to me a little bit
9:27
about design, a costumes for the now, California location.
9:31
Yeah, so it's Lenora Hills, which is a fictional spot, but
9:35
we knew that it was sort of meant to be kind of like San
9:38
Bernardino area. And I was actually where I'm
9:40
from, I'm from Marietta California, which is sort of,
9:45
you know, with in Riverside County.
9:46
So that part was kind of familiar and that's so funny.
9:50
Yeah, so I found a bunch of yearbooks from the region and
9:54
signed up for classmates.com and you know, you can tell so much
9:58
about a person with a head shot or, you know, a yearbook photo
10:01
because you can see how they do their makeup and their hair and
10:03
you can tell at least half of what their outfit is.
10:06
So you know, it just showed a good selection and a good
10:09
variety of people. But what I wanted to make sure
10:11
we did for California but we sort of take away any plaid.
10:13
The felt so Hawkins and only keep it honest.
10:16
Then and we'll really, you know, it was closing them.
10:21
So you won't really see plaid on anybody in California and you
10:25
know the angles of the close, the colors are brighter and
10:28
sharper. It's just a little more
10:30
fashion-forward, just so it stands out more from Hawkins and
10:34
we're still in 86, and it's really like 87, and beyond that
10:38
things. Get super Neon.
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So it was just just about to be neon like preemie on and there's
10:44
a few shoulder pads but nothing too big.
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Big. Nothing too crazy just because
10:48
that, it's putting your feet in the 80s water.
10:51
It was funny to do those like crazy patterns and and just a
10:55
little bit more of a fashionable silhouette.
10:57
That was so cool. It's so interesting to they
10:59
mentioned that will and 11 or still wearing plaid because to
11:02
me they are kind of still stuck in.
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They've had traumatic lives and Hawkins so it's no wonder that
11:08
they're still stuck in there Hawkins.
11:09
Garbs a little bit. Definitely an elevens, you know,
11:13
hand-me-downs now at this point because maybe she did.
11:16
Some all clothes with her but Max isn't there to help her, you
11:20
know, figure out how to wear clothes the same way.
11:22
So it's either that you always would have given her or stuff
11:25
that will or Jonathan had grown out of.
11:28
So it should feel like a mix of closets.
11:32
The California things actually a pretty emotional and sad but
11:35
there's some really bright exciting moments.
11:37
Like, for example, the roller rink seen obsessed with it.
11:41
I mean, we all saw in the trailer.
11:42
We were just ready to go. Read that in the script.
11:47
I got so excited to get to do a roller rink in the 80s.
11:50
I mean, that's right I mean, I haven't gone roller skating
11:55
forever but I was ready to go. Rent some skates.
11:59
I probably would end badly but like the idea, sounds good.
12:02
We would skate at lunch not every time.
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But you know, if there was when there was a lunch break and if
12:06
someone had time, we'd use some of their rental skates through,
12:09
we're really good. I love what people are like
12:13
roller skating backwards is kind of showing everyone up for no
12:16
reason. Like, please don't do that.
12:18
What's wrong with you? Like an accident?
12:20
You're right. So let's dive into these
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costumes. It was so fun.
12:24
Like I said, some darker moments but I love the Silhouettes, two
12:28
colors, combined with that Tarzan, Boy, soundtrack.
12:31
I mean, addicted to that song. Never thought I would be, how
12:36
did you come up with these looks?
12:38
Well, we're very lucky that because we had time and knew
12:41
that the roller rink scene was coming up but we didn't end up
12:44
going to Albuquerque till later in the schedule.
12:46
There's There was a moment where we were going to go back and
12:48
forth to Albuquerque to shoot New Mexico.
12:50
Yeah to shoot in New Mexico for California, but we saved that
12:54
till the end of the season. So as my Shoppers and I were
12:58
pulling clothes, we would set aside stuff that felt specific
13:01
to the roller rink. So if it was, you know, like
13:04
stretchy Lycra pants or shiny Fabrics that we knew would catch
13:08
the Light really well. We were able to put that aside
13:10
throughout the season so we had a good, you know, year and a
13:13
half to like curate really good roller rink close And we're
13:17
lucky in that we have that prep time to find the real peace to.
13:19
So nearly everything here is like unique vintage.
13:22
I shouldn't say unique it is unique at this point because not
13:25
a lot of that is still around but it's legit pieces is kind of
13:28
what I'm saying, you know, it's like all real from the 80s and
13:32
like the girl in read you know, that red set.
13:34
It's like this incredible two-piece set and so often you
13:38
see a, you know, a top that looks like it should have a
13:40
matching skirt or a pant and vice versa.
13:43
So it's such a dream when you find a set that's still
13:45
together, and we were able to kind of make sure those were
13:48
front and center, because we wanted to show that off.
13:50
There's some pieces from Etsy and eBay, that felt super like
13:53
late 70s, early 80s, just to kind of push the Glory Days of
13:57
roller rink. And, yeah, just like thinking on
14:00
knowing it would be dark with light that would strobe.
14:02
So shiny Fabrics, things that would reflect metallics, we had
14:06
so much fun dressing, the stunt people that are around 11:00
14:09
when she is sort of in that circle with Angela That's all
14:13
stuff players. And so that was fun because it
14:15
was We make sure that the outfit would function well for them
14:19
because they're skating doing tricks and stuff.
14:20
So we just had the best time fitting Roller Rink in New
14:23
Mexico. So fun.
14:25
I can imagine. I'm just like you said so fun.
14:29
I love this scene. I'm and every time you watch it,
14:31
you see some different costume that you didn't see the first
14:34
time which is what are the fun. And like the there's a picture
14:38
that we're looking at in the person in the on the top right
14:41
photo. If you go towards the back is
14:43
like a letterman jacket. So we are imagining that that
14:46
That's the Letterman jacket. We built a couple for Lenora.
14:49
Hi, you know, we don't really ever see that or showcase it but
14:53
there would be, you know, kids from high school in town.
14:55
So we were able to make some of those jackets ahead of time and
14:57
sprinkle them through the high school and then, of course,
14:59
they'd be going skating. So, there's so many little
15:02
details within each frame that if you do pause and kind of take
15:04
a look, you'll find something exciting and interesting, but so
15:09
exciting and just while we're on the subject real quickly.
15:13
And something I've been talking about lately, it's been In
15:16
constant as I inhale costume designers can and practice.
15:20
More sustainable efforts is that do feel like that's really with
15:23
shopping. A lot of these vintage looks and
15:25
trying to reuse, looks, instead of creating new ones.
15:28
Yes, I think that's important and I'm glad that we're talking
15:31
about it more. Because with with period,
15:33
fashion, with vintage, clothing and period fashion.
15:36
It's really nice to be able to use stuff that already exists
15:38
because it's the real thing with contemporary, it can feel a
15:41
little, you know, so mass-produced and fashion and so
15:44
fast, now that it's being cranked out and thrown in stores
15:48
and then so you get an approval on something.
15:50
You need a multiple for. If you go back to get it's
15:52
already gone. So it's speeding up quicker and
15:55
it's making it harder for contemporary.
15:57
So with period stuff it's nice to use the real thing and it's
16:00
important to kind of keep keep it real because it's true to the
16:04
period but then it's also important to like protect our
16:06
environment you know and not recreate if you don't have to.
16:10
So it's really nice that we're focusing on that and I do see a
16:12
shift within Productions and within costume departments where
16:16
we're trying. To utilize dead stock or, you
16:19
know, we recycle things more. I think it's important for
16:22
contemporary shows people should be repeating clothing because
16:25
you're seeing that in your own life.
16:27
You don't wear One Thing Once. Usually, you know, you were
16:30
things multiple times. So it just makes it more real if
16:33
we keep reusing. So I think it's important and
16:35
I'm glad that sort of a shift that we're seeing great.
16:38
Well yeah, thank you for saying that.
16:40
And I really think it's so important that everyone's
16:41
listening because we do have a lot of costume, designers and
16:44
costume Crews listening. Such an important issue that
16:47
everyone needs to have on top of mind.
16:49
Yeah, something else. That's on top of mine is
16:52
elevens. Look at for good part of
16:55
California scenes. I love it.
16:57
Because like you mentioned Max isn't here to help 11 get
17:01
dressed. So to me this look is so
17:04
perfectly, not perfect, it makes so much sense how she's layering
17:08
this reminds me of like the vintagy like cups.
17:13
You would put like a soda in that like a frog, right?
17:18
And she has a milkshake thrown on her.
17:20
So as soon as I saw this I was like oh I got asked a me about
17:23
that. You know that there's a story
17:24
behind this dress so definitely is.
17:27
And that dress is based off of a real dress from the 80s.
17:29
But when we reprinted the fabric because we knew we need a lot of
17:33
multiples, right? And we I mean there's subtle
17:36
details and that the squiggle lines on top of the colorful
17:39
lines are yellow and pink and then it's sort of like adjusted.
17:43
So it's on the top left and the bottom right of this.
17:46
This kind of Four Square panel of the front and the back of the
17:48
dress. So, we matched our patterns
17:50
because we, you know, printed the fabric and we were able to
17:52
make matching multiples, but what's also important in
17:54
matching is the stain and the milkshake.
17:57
So you know, you've got a possible on the screen it but
18:01
yeah, so we broke it down. Knowing that there would be
18:04
Millie wearing it. There would be a photo double
18:05
wearing it. There would be a stunt person
18:07
wearing it, there might even be like a stunt skate person
18:10
wearing it. You know, you kind of have to
18:11
plan ahead before, you know, for sure what you need.
18:13
So I think we built 12 dresses. And then are Anthony, so bought
18:18
a milkshake for us, like I suppose Fort meant.
18:21
You know, we tried chocolate vanilla and strawberry and it
18:25
felt like the chocolate kind of made the most sense.
18:27
And we really just like physically were like, well, what
18:30
will this look like. So, we put it on a dress form
18:32
that we covered in plastic and through the milkshake on the
18:35
dress and it was the first try and it looked good and we got
18:39
approval from the Decker brothers and they're like yeah,
18:41
this is great. So that's what it should look
18:43
like. So then we've got, you know,
18:45
like a milkshake stain. And then you have to kind of go
18:48
backwards and then paint it in for all the dresses where it
18:51
would be after the scene. And what's confusing is, you
18:54
actually see her get thrown, you know, milkshakes actually thrown
18:57
on her in the show, right in the moment so that we have that
19:01
action. But any time previous to that is
19:04
the painted rock, Shake dress on anybody.
19:07
That is not hurt, really more the actual real, my brain, you
19:11
know, it's a lot, you know, somebody would have done it and
19:14
somehow it doesn't, even though it was like, You know, milkshake
19:17
Dairy it. Like like dried In the Heat of
19:20
Albuquerque and then just was just saying like, there's no
19:23
smell. There was no gross.
19:25
It was just like, pigment on the dress and so, yeah, that's kind
19:29
of how you achieve that, I guess.
19:31
But that's an insane story. I just can't even believe it.
19:34
It's such a like simple concept people listening to this price I
19:37
think but no this is such prime one or more complicated.
19:40
Looks of the entire series. I said yeah.
19:43
And it's just like in order to get it right.
19:45
Let's just see what it looks like.
19:46
Sometimes you don't have time and TV to get to do that.
19:48
So we're lucky that we had time to set up a space to throw the
19:51
milkshake to painted in. Sometimes you'll just have to
19:53
like imagine, okay, this might be it then you just paint it
19:56
real quick or, you know, there's other ways faster but we had the
19:59
time to do it this way. Luckily.
20:01
Oh man, but the challenge is kept on Rolling In For You in
20:05
season 3. There's a few Russian uniforms I
20:08
would say. But season 4, we go to Russia,
20:13
allegedly, and it looks so real. And So beautifully done.
20:17
You know it's hauntingly beautiful.
20:19
I would say so, how did you approach creating specially the
20:22
uniforms for all the Russian soldiers?
20:25
Yeah, a most are real. Especially for the soldiers.
20:29
The prisoners are a lot of those were made for us.
20:33
So our prep started in Poland and that's where we use hero
20:37
costume to build the multiples. And it was a really like,
20:41
durable, twill fabric that is over died to have that dark
20:45
indigo. Our, which is what it would have
20:47
been. But some of them sprinkled in
20:49
within some of these prisoners were the real uniforms, which
20:52
had all their color leached out, somewhere kind of a gray tone.
20:55
Some actually had, you know, original dirt and possibly, even
20:59
blood stains on them. It was pretty pretty real the
21:02
actual aging of the real ones. And so we wanted to break those
21:05
down to match, and that was something that takes 40 to 50
21:08
years, right? And you have your hours times to
21:12
break them down if you have left last-minute.
21:14
Casting. So we had Really, really
21:17
talented breakdown artists. Helping us in Lithuania with
21:19
that. But yeah, it like for example,
21:22
the picture that we're looking at on the top left, David Harbor
21:25
has a prisoner hat and that's a real prisoner hat and mixed with
21:29
a newly remade, prisoner uniform and Shawn Levy had the idea to
21:35
put on his patch. If you look closely, it says
21:37
American in Cyrillic, everybody would have had, you know, like a
21:42
maybe their last name or some kind of code on their jacket.
21:46
But instead of giving him something that would have been
21:49
someone else's, they would have made one specific to him, you
21:52
know, they never noticed that. Yeah.
21:55
If you look real closely, it says American and Cyrillic, I
21:58
love it was still fighting details in the show, all these
22:01
months later. Yeah and I mean when you see
22:05
these photos like with it with a set in the makeup and the hair
22:08
like when it all comes together, it is pretty beautiful in a
22:10
dirty way. I cannot imagine the feeling of
22:14
your crew member when I saw like legit.
22:16
What the government's? Well, you know, it's crazy, the
22:20
background artists, you know, the people that are like
22:23
standing in frame behind the actors are in like, cold hard
22:29
leather boots. They're putting on these
22:31
uniforms and they are so tough. They looked like, prisoners,
22:34
they had like, you know, there's just real European faces.
22:37
They looked so good and they were so chill.
22:38
I was like, aren't you freezing? And they're like, no, they're
22:40
used to it, they're from a convenient, daunted by the blood
22:45
at all. I love this story.
22:49
I heard it from you for we did another project together a
22:53
couple weeks ago. And when I heard that I was
22:55
ready to grab the microphone. I could talk about this part
22:58
forever. Something else I could talk
23:02
about forever, Winona Ryder, playing Choice buyers.
23:05
I just love her. I just have to ask.
23:08
Was it like designing costumes for Winona Ryder?
23:11
It's amazing. She's a legend.
23:13
You know, she is such an icon and she's In this role is Joyce,
23:17
and it was nice meeting her in season 3, because she helps
23:20
guide me in the way that like, this is how Joyce would wear
23:23
clothes and this is why she would wear them the way she
23:25
does. And it's not about fashion, you
23:27
know, it's she's a mother. She's concerned for kids.
23:30
She's working hard to stay afloat as a single mother, so
23:35
it's great to dress her and she's so awesome in early on,
23:38
she brought in some of her original genes that were genes
23:40
from her parents, that he wanted to wear in some of the scenes.
23:44
And it's hard because a lot of times after us, Photo doubled.
23:47
So we needed multiples, you know, and they were these really
23:49
beautiful unique denim. Denim jeans so early on, we were
23:52
able to use a couple pairs when it was a very fast seen.
23:55
But then if there was a scene that we use them on later, we'd
23:59
match the multiple as best we could for a photo devil or a
24:02
stunt person so that she could use the real vintage ones.
24:05
So it's been such a treat to work with her and she's amazing.
24:08
I love that story and you bring up something else I want to ask.
24:11
How collaborative is stranger things.
24:13
Do you find yourself working with the actors and actresses?
24:16
A lot when looking into their costumes, I do, and I think
24:20
coming in on season, 3 by then, these people are, you know, know
24:24
the actors the best are the, you know, the actors know that
24:26
characters the best. So, I really relied on them to
24:30
tell me what feels right for this character and even still
24:33
especially with meili as 11. Well, it feels like 11 and
24:37
sometimes we were like, I don't know.
24:38
In a good way though, you know, right.
24:41
Because she doesn't know. And so there was a moment where
24:44
she, I think I told the story already too but She came on the
24:46
set. We were like, how do you feel?
24:48
She's like, not like 11:00, but I think that's good because
24:50
she's the out of place. She's not in Hawkins, she's in a
24:53
new school. Would I wear this outfit?
24:55
You know, is a good question. That's something.
24:57
She should be asking as 11 because the 11 doesn't know
24:59
either. So right, it's super
25:01
collaborative and I love having those conversations with the
25:03
actors. It's such a yours.
25:05
This show is unique to and since a lot of these actors have grown
25:09
up with the show, which is mind-blowing, I know to see them
25:14
grow is. I mean, Do you watch them grow?
25:17
And you see them? You can these amazing adults,
25:18
which is nice. But then you also watch them
25:20
gonna like, shoot how much more length is in?
25:22
Those pants? What's in the inside?
25:27
You know, but we always make it work.
25:30
Yeah. Someone who's really made it
25:35
work. I would say Joseph Quinn as
25:38
Eddie Munson who is taking over the world since the show's come
25:41
out. I mean admittedly.
25:43
I'm obsessed with him too. Yeah.
25:46
Way that sort of transformed this role.
25:48
It's so good. So first I have to ask you about
25:52
the story behind the hellfire club shirt and then I just want
25:55
to talk about designing Eddie Munson's costumes in general.
25:59
Well like you said, he transformed, you know, I saw him
26:02
with my crew. We were in the parking lot, one
26:04
day at screen gems. Where we shoot this in Atlanta
26:06
and we were like, who's walking towards us?
26:07
Who's waving at us? Who is that?
26:09
You know, like, it was joke in but we didn't recognize him
26:12
because with the with the wig and the outfit and the attitude,
26:14
he'd become such a different person.
26:16
You see him outside of that, it was like, who is that?
26:18
But it was, it was really fun to start with the hellfire club
26:22
shirt. That was something that was
26:23
scripted, that it would be assured.
26:24
That looked like the kids had made it themselves as a group.
26:28
And so, there were a few iterations of it.
26:31
And it was between we ended up kind of narrowing into two
26:35
different designs between the production designers artists,
26:38
and then a graphic artists that I was using and it was so
26:42
important to their death for brothers to just get it, right?
26:44
So there was quite a few, a sort of like, Revisions of it.
26:48
And ultimately I think that this one was chosen because it just
26:51
does look like kind of hand-drawn and it's super
26:55
influence by real D&D kids from the 80s.
26:57
I've got some great images of the bunch of like science club
27:00
and d and d clubs. A lot of the kids were in, you
27:04
know, baseball tee shirts and we knew that white would help below
27:08
go stand out and then the black sleeves just felt like Eddie and
27:11
like kind of the D&D club would pick black and white.
27:14
So we went with that combo. We had tried.
27:16
Other way where it was black with white sleeves but you
27:18
wanted it to stand out so that you can see the dirt as he ages
27:21
throughout the you know Season or as he gets dirtier than
27:24
throughout the season not ages but I get what you mean so that
27:30
was important to do and then, you know, the layers upon it, I
27:32
knew I wanted to do like a leather jacket with a cut-off
27:35
vest. And the vest is so good and it's
27:38
an original Levi's, like blanket line trucker jacket with the
27:41
sleeves ripped off and because aging is so good.
27:45
It's so hard to read. Create that.
27:46
So we spent many times on eBay, Etsy, trying to find multiples
27:50
that we could at least sort of Leach the color out if we needed
27:53
to to match the Aging, right? So, I'm sure that now, a lot of
27:56
people have found multiples online to repeat, but at the
28:00
time there was a few that we're able to, you know, be purchased.
28:04
And so there's sort of like one hero hero.
28:06
But within that there is about six, five to six others that are
28:09
used between him or a floater double or a stunt double or joke
28:12
earring, when he's Steve Wright, who also wears it.
28:15
So and Another covid problem. You couldn't really share
28:18
clothes, right? So uh yeah version and then they
28:21
had like a dry and a wet and there's a lot of that is
28:26
involved in it. And then you know the little
28:27
details like we're looking at a photo of the leather jacket
28:30
where you can see the chain over the zipper.
28:32
Yeah, I thought someone do that. It was like someone's jacket had
28:36
clearly like not worked anymore. The zipper wouldn't work.
28:38
And so they put this metal chain in there and that's like it's
28:42
thick leather and it was something I'm sure my breakdown
28:45
artist was probably Like do I have to do this?
28:47
But look at you you know, and it's rare moments like this
28:50
exact shot you know, which is so cool.
28:52
Joe looks so cool and then you see that hard work.
28:55
So the littlest detail you think all you, no one will ever see it
28:59
but then you've got this photo where everyone can see it.
29:01
So it's kind of nice when you hold to your guns and get those
29:03
details in there, right? It paid off.
29:05
So then how do you decide on? You know, he really personalizes
29:08
his jacket, how do you decide on?
29:10
Like the band's represented as that more of a script thing?
29:13
Or were you listening to some metal music and you're like,
29:16
Because d.o.a. chose the deal. Sure, on the back of his jacket.
29:21
Because in a lot of my research of like metal kids, there was
29:25
tons of video and it was huge. And it was, you know, this
29:27
Wizard metal, that these kids were listening to.
29:29
Yeah, the graphic artist Trevor Gerard who did hellfire club
29:33
logo. Also helped me because I was, I
29:34
would he also listens of this band.
29:36
So he kind of was like, here's a good group of bands.
29:39
That would also be people even if they're listening to deal,
29:41
you're probably listening to all these fans.
29:43
Right? So see what we could find.
29:45
We were able to find a lot of Of original Judas, Priest, enamel
29:48
pins. And we recreated the wasp in
29:50
because I think there's only one of those.
29:52
Wow, I think we've got Mercyful Fate on there.
29:54
We've got the except on their Motorhead Megadeth Iron Maiden,
29:57
so it all kind of. Yes, I was listening to it but
30:00
also I didn't want to do it wrong.
30:01
So I had a few people tell me like, okay, that might be not
30:04
quite the band, but this one would be.
30:06
So it was definitely like conferred before it was all on
30:10
there, right? Because Eddie wouldn't listen to
30:12
a band that was not cool. So you have to really Are your
30:16
opinions on that genre? For sure?
30:20
Before I continue I didn't even show you my phone case, that's
30:23
hellfire club saying out. So you know that my nerding out
30:26
is authentic, it's all right, so I'm excited to talk about Sadie
30:34
sink killed it. The season.
30:36
I mean, she was incredible and I'm like, a newly converted Max
30:42
fan to likes. I just loved what she did in the
30:44
season. It was so good.
30:46
I have some theories about her. Look you could tell me if I'm
30:49
right or not close is she wearing his blue bright blue
30:54
looks so she could kind of stand out and upside down because
30:57
unfortunately Max spends a lot of time upside down compared to
31:00
these other character. It's right.
31:04
I mean, the outfit was approved before we kind of knew about the
31:10
hellscape and we're looking at a picture of the bottom, right?
31:13
Where it's really red and really dark.
31:16
And so I that came after the outfit was approved and I'm so
31:20
glad and lucky it worked out that way because I think if we
31:22
had put her in Darker close it really would have been harder to
31:25
not only see her but then also to show all the blood and the
31:28
guck and the goop that happens down there.
31:30
So he knew that 11 would be there and the all white outfit
31:34
was really cool. I'm excited for that too.
31:36
But it kind of just worked out in one of those Kismet ways that
31:39
it was meant to be this outfit in that hellscape region, so to
31:44
speak. So then, what was I Dia them
31:46
behind Max's costume because it really works.
31:50
I is she's a little bit, a character harder to read which I
31:53
really think is the point. Yeah, it is.
31:56
And this felt like pieces that she would have had from say
32:00
California that she would have brought out to Hawkins, because
32:02
they're a little brighter, right?
32:03
And right. And it's also, it's a baggy or
32:05
sweatshirt and she's while she's in mourning, it's not as dark as
32:09
you would anticipate. It becomes a little bit darker
32:11
later, but it definitely kind of swallows her up and is sort of
32:15
like a coverage. Just To hide herself, you know,
32:17
it's sort of, like she wants to be receding into her, you know,
32:21
morning in a quiet way. But the outfits, not very quiet,
32:24
but I feel like it'll work out. I mean, it's all custom-made and
32:28
aside from the jeans, but we made the shirt and the hoodie,
32:30
or the sweatshirt. And I think it just kind of
32:34
feels like her sunny California version of herself, but she's
32:38
inside tortured and sad and really upset about her brother
32:41
dying, right? That's so complex.
32:43
Actually, and I love the way you described because it makes all
32:47
sense. Now in my head, she's trying to
32:49
cover up, but maybe she's using those California colors to, like
32:53
make things not feel as dark even though they're pretty dark.
33:01
So interesting, one person I was talking to on the internet,
33:07
brought this up and I can't stop seeing it.
33:09
Now, I love it. Seeing our Hawkins crew, head
33:12
into the upside down to fight vecna super badass when he got
33:16
To their battle armor. Their kind of give me like
33:19
low-key Lost. Boys energy, is that like a that
33:23
I pick up on something? Or is that just the best that's
33:26
ever know for sure. I think that was in the script
33:29
to it was like they've dressed up.
33:31
They put on this battle gear. Allah Red Dawn you know like and
33:34
it worked out perfectly. So Dustin in the hood with the
33:38
bandana, you know, it's the bandana that's camouflage which
33:41
is actually the one that Lucas keeps wearing over his head.
33:44
Oh yeah. I don't really know that if
33:47
anybody had picked up on that, I'm sure there are some fans
33:49
that noticed, but now now I can't see it.
33:51
Like first, I wanted to add, you know, some more Pops of brighter
33:57
colors. I think we try to read one but
33:59
it just seems to like, in your face.
34:01
And so, we were like, well, why wouldn't he borrow Lucas's?
34:03
You know. And so it's Lucas's headband now
34:06
on Dustin, but that was the thing that Patrick Swayze did in
34:09
the movie where he had put a headband over a hoodie.
34:12
So we certainly took influence from those movies.
34:15
Those great 80s. Is I love it, especially on Maya
34:19
Hawks cash. We can call this piece.
34:24
Why are these hats called little like a paratrooper Beret?
34:27
So two separate. Don't know why.
34:30
I screamed everything last poised to me when I saw that.
34:37
I was like, yeah, that's the piece.
34:39
Yeah, anyway, she's gone shopping with everybody there in
34:43
a hurry to find gear, but that doesn't stop her from like
34:46
Looking cute and getting a cute little Beret.
34:48
Right? And I mean, they might think
34:50
this might be the end or life. Anyways, so my zombie go out as
34:53
badasses. Well, we're in the upside down.
35:01
There's a lot of as we were talking about.
35:04
There's a lot of aging and distressing that happens to
35:06
these characters specially when turned upside down.
35:09
How did you, how do you work on that in the costumes?
35:12
Because I'm sure part of its also VFX.
35:14
But then part of it, The costumes as well.
35:17
Yeah, for sure. A good example is like a lot of
35:20
these flak vests that are on them, are legit to the period.
35:24
So they're already worn in and distressed Steve's bomber
35:28
jacket. The brown leather was already
35:30
pretty distressed to but we added a bunch of patches and it
35:33
was fun to get to work with Joe carry on that because they're
35:35
custom-made patches and they all have some specific personalized
35:41
patches because they asked him like do you have a favorite
35:43
number or like you know a favor? Ribbit pet name, or color, or
35:47
something, when we make all these patches.
35:49
And so, he gave us references for, like, an old dog's name and
35:53
a current pet's name and an old nickname of his dad and you
35:59
know, like stuff that we were able to infuse and he's like
36:01
military influence to patches that are along the sleeves of
36:05
the jacket and their bright. When you get them made in, we
36:08
had to make five of each, I think so.
36:10
Then we had to film on the jacket and then take them down.
36:14
So every piece gets With some dust or some dirt, in some ways,
36:17
sometimes it's paint, Nancy's vest that she wears on top of
36:20
her quilted jacket, those were made and based off of like a
36:24
duck hunting, you know, canvas. So, luckily with a lot of this,
36:29
it was sort of already at that level.
36:31
And then we just kind of accentuated it, or balanced it
36:35
out with other pieces, and it had to take those down to match.
36:38
So, fun definitely. If some of the best costumes
36:41
entire show, it's an underrated moment because it is a darker
36:44
scene. But like we actually Get them in
36:46
that light. You could see all these details
36:49
and this is why I love doing this podcast.
36:51
How would I ever know about these patches on Joe kiri's?
36:54
Look. So back to the collaboration
37:00
with actors, you know, like it's nice to be able to have when you
37:03
have the time to make patches if you have the time to go.
37:05
Hey. Do you want, you know, to have
37:07
anything on them? That means something to you.
37:09
So what's your favorite number? Like, I love back.
37:13
Yeah, one of my favorite pieces. On the show, I cannot get over
37:17
this look first, I have to say thank you for posting so much
37:22
behind the scenes on your Instagram.
37:23
I think everyone should take a lesson from you because it's
37:27
just so fun that seeing it the Scantron look on the Dustin.
37:32
It was one of the highlights of the Season.
37:35
Yeah. You create this.
37:37
You know, we found that fabric in Atlanta Georgia at one of the
37:41
shops out there and I saw and I was like, oh gosh, that looks
37:45
like skin. Shrunk Fabric and amongst a lot
37:48
of the research I was doing, there was a moment where there
37:50
was a fashion trend of drawing on your clothes.
37:53
And I think I saw an ad for like a sweater that came with
37:56
markers. You could buy this sweater from
37:58
a magazine. I think you called a phone
38:00
number or you know, like sent in your money through the mail and
38:04
they would send you this sweatshirt with like three
38:06
colored markers that you could color in on the sweater.
38:10
So, you know, it just kind of happened to be in that recently,
38:14
and then I see the Scantron Can I call that's exactly what he
38:17
would do is like drawn these Bubbles and make his own because
38:21
you know I think he's such a smart kid that he's one of those
38:23
kids that probably is so bored in school because he already
38:25
knows it, right. You know.
38:27
So it's like algebra whenever yeah, I thought Dustin would be
38:32
the type to be so bored but in a, you know, in a good way, he'd
38:36
use his time wisely and then make this beautiful artwork on
38:38
his shirt. So this was also done by Trevor
38:41
who did the hellfire club logo and I said you know could we do
38:44
some like video game in? Imagery.
38:46
So it's kind of like Zelda, themed and then down at the
38:49
bottom, we're looking at a photo of the back of Dustin shirt and
38:52
that's kind of the will the wise at the bottom.
38:54
It's sort of the little will wizard costume, he's with, you
38:58
know, the staff that has this like breathing dragon and the
39:01
fire goes over the shoulder so it's so good.
39:05
There needs to be like a stranger things.
39:06
Museum, one day and this is like the front, I think it's so good.
39:12
Really cool. I feel like I would hang out
39:14
with Dustin. Oh yeah.
39:18
It's been fun to post some behind-the-scenes stuff.
39:21
You know what, I always ask the actors before I do it.
39:24
I wouldn't post pictures from fittings if they didn't approve,
39:27
because that's of an intimate moment and intimate time between
39:30
a designer and an actor. But I think that there, luckily,
39:35
these kids are kind of used to it at this point.
39:37
And I also think it's like why not showcase the work that we're
39:40
doing, so people can see how much is involved, you know.
39:43
Yeah. I mean, that's shirt deserves to
39:45
see the world. Old and vice versa.
39:49
I get it. But that it's there's a level of
39:51
trust there that you have to maintain so.
39:53
I mean yeah, I love that idea. That you asked to actors and
39:57
actresses before that makes perfect sense.
40:00
Absolutely yes. And no one's ever said, oh don't
40:03
show it but you know, I would never want to show a picture
40:05
that they're not happy with. So I would always ask first
40:08
right? All right, so we're coming to
40:10
the end here but I cannot let you go before we talk about
40:14
certain legend that we had on this.
40:16
Season where it's I was going crazy because I'm like, I hope
40:19
everyone watching the show knows who's in these in the small
40:23
role. Robert Englund.
40:26
Who plays Victor Creole Freddy Krueger himself.
40:29
What what? That is insane.
40:32
Amy. I know so that your Legend, we
40:35
got the casting. We were just like what room was
40:39
like, oh my God. So cool.
40:44
What was it like working with him.
40:45
I I just can't imagine, I'd be terrified, you know, it wasn't
40:49
scary in that way because it was just like, I want to make sure
40:51
that this is right for him because he came in and are
40:54
fitting. I think was just like on a
40:56
Friday and he was going to shoot on Monday.
40:58
Well, you know what I mean, often, especially with TV,
41:02
casting can be what feels like last minute for us but, you
41:05
know, once they have to arrange the deals and stuff, there's
41:08
just so much involved. So unfortunately it becomes a
41:12
last-minute thing where it feels like costumes, never gets enough
41:15
time to prep. But we knew that character was
41:18
coming and we knew he would be in an institution.
41:20
So we had some ideas knowing that Victor Creole, we kind of
41:24
knew what he would be doing but we didn't know who the actor
41:26
was. And then once we got the
41:27
go-ahead, we had already pre pulled some pieces.
41:31
So I put some outfits together and honestly the first thing he
41:33
tried on was like the one we got so lucky.
41:35
He was like this feels right, you know, there was other
41:39
sweater options and then we landed on this one and we needed
41:43
multiples just in case. So it's like from Vermont
41:47
Country Store, I think that's wonderful.
41:49
Website with some unique, we had the fitting on a Friday, we aged
41:55
it over the weekend and you know, tried again it was like
41:59
that thing where you give it years of age but you don't have
42:02
much time to do it, but here's in a weekend which is crazy, it
42:08
was just great to see us process, you know, to like have
42:11
him, try it on feel what it feels like and where the clothes
42:13
are on the fitting room. And then once he knew it was you
42:16
It was like, this is the one so that was really special and he's
42:19
got some great Hollywood stories.
42:20
I hope he writes a book someday. I hope so too.
42:23
I would read that in a second and I love this behind the scene
42:25
shot of him. Everyone listen can't see it,
42:28
but maybe we'll share it where he's just like, curled up in
42:30
this sweater. It looks so comfortable.
42:32
It's also such like a model shot to.
42:34
I'm like, I love this. Pose editorial in like a insane
42:38
way. Right?
42:40
The practice this one. Well, Amy, this is Ben.
42:46
So much fun, but I have to ask you.
42:48
We play a game on this podcast called one costume.
42:51
Rule them all, where we pick our favorite look.
42:54
Would you be willing to play with us?
42:56
I know it's a little hard, but the one costume to rule them
43:02
all. Okay, so I've been having a hard
43:09
time with this show actually trying to figure out what my
43:11
favorite costume was. And before we talked I said one
43:15
costume but I don't know, I feel like I'm switching back over to
43:18
Eddie Munson also. That luck is just so fun.
43:21
I love the idea that you had to sit around and pick different
43:25
bands and think about how, you know, Eddie would react to
43:28
those. But I also loved a milkshake
43:31
dress too because that's such a complex look that, you know, was
43:36
so difficult and people Oh, I thought it was, you know, just a
43:39
simple throw milkshake on and go.
43:41
It's not that easy, but I have to ask you.
43:44
Do you have a one costume? Rule them all?
43:46
I think, my answer would be. Yes.
43:49
And no, but I think it's, I mean to rule them all in what way
43:52
would be, Michael returned question because there's so many
43:55
different like categories, you know, like to rule them all for
43:58
like how hard it was to make or how easy it was to achieve or
44:03
how much we liked it for the actors Comfort, or right?
44:07
You know, There's some reasons, I mean, I do kind of agree with
44:10
you. I'm kind of leaning towards
44:11
Eddie and I think my team was probably pretty relieved by the
44:14
time I settled on all the patches and pins because there
44:16
were days or would be okay, this patent goes here, this band is
44:19
this if I would change it. Nope, we have too much blue.
44:22
Now, we get moving. It was painstakingly like slow
44:26
for me to get it in the place that felt right and then it was
44:30
like painstakingly like track it.
44:31
Make sure it's in the right place every time and so I think
44:35
that as soon as I finally picked They were like finally oh my
44:39
gosh, the kids are changing her mind.
44:41
Yeah they're probably finally she picked.
44:44
So I mean I guess that would be right?
44:46
I mean you can't say your favorite kid, you know.
44:48
I don't have kids but yeah I think I do expect you to pick
44:51
one but it's really good. Is there like a certain costume
44:55
that like maybe found like super challenging that by time you saw
44:59
on screen? You like off like finally that
45:01
one made it and it turned out like really well yeah kind of
45:05
the 11 1, right? Because It's still kind of like
45:08
what did we do? The the dress with the plaid
45:10
shirt you're like next season? No more milk shakes, please.
45:17
That if you take time to think about the storyline and where
45:19
she's come from, and where she is, it does kind of show the
45:22
layer of like Hawkins meets, California meets displaced
45:27
meets, you know, new girl in a new school, trying to find her
45:29
way. So that one took a minute to get
45:32
there, too. Because there was a different
45:33
dress fabric before we chose that one, there were other
45:36
shirts. You know, it's disjointed enough
45:39
that I feel like it tells the story pretty clearly if you kind
45:41
of stop to think about it. So that one was kind of
45:44
challenging Amy. I'm so excited that you were
45:48
able to join us. I'm so honored I've been looking
45:51
forward to this. Thank you.
45:53
I'm so grateful for the that you took the time and that we were
45:56
able to do this. And I'm so grateful for all this
45:57
time, you do for all the other designers and for showcasing
46:00
costume is a pretty challenging. So thank you for like bringing
46:04
attention to it because you do a really great job of it.
46:06
Oh, thank you. So, So much.
46:07
It's really such an honor. I love your work.
46:10
And speaking of, do you have any future projects that you could
46:13
maybe tease out, where you can see more of a me Paris?
46:17
Well, I'm on. I'm in Vancouver right now on
46:20
season 2 of Yellowjackets. Oh wow.
46:23
Yeah, that's another show that I'm coming into not having
46:26
started it and it was done by Mariska, who did a brilliant job
46:30
of setting up season one, so I get to continue that and then
46:33
add in to the new season. And then there's some new
46:36
characters that are new this He's in so it has been
46:39
challenging but totally fulfilling and it's a good story
46:42
so it's been fun to work on that and I'm out in Vancouver.
46:45
This is my first time working here.
46:46
Well well that's so exciting. I can't wait to see it.
46:50
We're definitely gonna have to talk again when the yellow
46:52
jackets comes out. Amy, thank you so much for
46:56
joining. This has been so much fun.
46:58
I'm sure everyone that listening right now is in tears or
47:01
Screaming? I had a good time.
47:04
Thank you me too. I appreciate you.
47:21
Hello, blogcast listeners. It's Elizabeth Joy glass co host
47:25
and producer of The Art of costume blogcast if you're like
47:29
me, you love to show your support with a comfy tea or tote
47:32
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47:34
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and head over to the Arctic costume / pot store, for all our
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great merch. Wow, I just don't even know what
48:18
to say. This is by far.
48:20
One of my favorite interviews. I could talk to Amy forever.
48:23
She's currently busy creating another incredible show.
48:26
So we could only talk for so long, but honestly, we could
48:29
have talked forever. I just loved her.
48:32
Work design. Actors such as Eddie Munson.
48:35
I'm a big metal fan. So that was so much fun hearing
48:38
about that milkshake dress, the roller rink and I even got to
48:42
have talked about Winona Ryder for a little bit.
48:44
That was more for me and less for you all with that.
48:48
If you all love the episode, want to tell us how you feel
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It really means a lot next week, Elizabeth will be back.
49:33
And we have another incredible episode lined up.
49:36
We are going to be talking about some of the newer horror films
49:41
that have an incredible Legacy. The new screen movie and the
49:45
newer Halloween movies. Yeah.
49:48
That one with Jamie Lee Curtis and we might have a little
49:51
special guest on that episode with us as well.
49:54
I can't wait to see you all next week.
49:56
Nerds have an incredible spooky week.
50:04
You're out of costume. Blogcast is hosted and produced
50:07
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50:11
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