Latest / Specialty Matcha Podcast / Matcha Sensory
Transcript
- 0:06Hello and welcome to the Specialty Matcha Podcast.
- 0:09My name is Ryan. This is Michael Hozenjun.
- 0:11Hello. Hello.
- 0:12Who also goes by Sam and we're the Co founders of Sanko Matcha
- 0:15products. Yeah, we launched this podcast
- 0:17to discuss our learning journey in matcha, show startup stories
- 0:19and interview experts. And today we're going to do a
- 0:23little bit of a sensory test of some interesting combination of
- 0:26matcha. But what is sensory?
- 0:28Yeah. What is sensory?
- 0:29So sensory is sort of the art and science of tasting, flavor
- 0:35and the experience, the primary experience, what we would call a
- 0:38primary sensory experience that we're all interacting with.
- 0:41Everyone says that taste is king, and it certainly really
- 0:44does matter, especially in like the current environment that we
- 0:48find ourselves in. There's a whole new generation
- 0:50of matcha consumers that are interacting with these products
- 0:53in a very different way. I'm learning about agricultural
- 0:56practices, learning about cultivars, learning about
- 0:58growing regions, but ultimately it's all about tying that stuff
- 1:02back to the flavor. Whereas, you know, the former
- 1:05generation of matcha consumers for the last few 100 years, it
- 1:08was all in a ceremonial context and the exact taste of the tea
- 1:12wasn't necessarily front and center.
- 1:14So the sensory part was very hidden away by skilled tea
- 1:18blenders and tea purveyors and people that owned these blend
- 1:22houses and their job was just to deliver a product that tasted
- 1:26the same year after year after year.
- 1:28And there's a lot of merit to that.
- 1:30But there's also a lot of merit in all of this natural diversity
- 1:34of flavors based on the cultivation methods called Vars,
- 1:37the growing regions, the fertilizer applied, and all of
- 1:40these things. And it makes sensory become much
- 1:44more important from like this back end quality control art and
- 1:48magic of blending to now it's something that we can all use
- 1:52and enjoy and it can enhance our experience and it allows us to
- 1:57justify paying more for a higher product because we're tasting
- 2:01things that we really enjoy. All of these founders that we've
- 2:04had on have these aha moments. They taste something and it just
- 2:08blows their mind. I think my first tea from Yame
- 2:12was like a really like transition was really a pivotal
- 2:17moment in my matcha learning journey of just expanding like,
- 2:21wow, matcha can taste like this. It's like holy crap.
- 2:25So we wanted to record an episode talking about how we
- 2:30view sensory, how we've seen other people do it, and a couple
- 2:33of frameworks that might be useful both for consumers
- 2:35listening as well as much of businesses that need to do some
- 2:38type of flavor measurement sensory tests to make sure that
- 2:42their products that they're getting are the same quality and
- 2:44how to communicate the flavor of these different things to their
- 2:48consumers. And so as long as you want to
- 2:49talk a little bit about our background in sensory in
- 2:52general, that kind of sets the stage for our perspective.
- 2:55Yeah. So in our last company, we used
- 2:57to work for these AI platforms that basically quantified and
- 3:02measures how people perceive flavor across different, you
- 3:06know, language, different dietary background, different
- 3:09culture, you know, scattering all continents.
- 3:12And we basically use this technology to kind of trying to
- 3:16understand from a very, you know, quantifiable way how
- 3:20exactly people perceive different flavor differently and
- 3:24how that difference led to different preference of
- 3:27different flavor and flavor combinations.
- 3:29So we used to work on very complicated projects with
- 3:33formulators to trying to turn that description, turn those
- 3:36figures into actual formulation, actual samples or products.
- 3:41And people can taste and try and like or dislike, usually dislike
- 3:44if, but it's something that people already like.
- 3:46They won't find us. Yeah, there's a We've tasted a
- 3:49lot of bad products in our time. It might sound cool, like being
- 3:53a professional caramel ice cream taster for a day, but not after
- 3:56you've tried like 20 of them. That's really not that cool if
- 4:00you're a professional. Instant ramen.
- 4:03But yeah, some, you know, traumatizing moment for, you
- 4:07know, doing that for a very long time.
- 4:10And we always get asked about sensory.
- 4:12So actually, for the last approximately the last decade of
- 4:15my life, I have been thinking about sensory and explaining it
- 4:19to other people, as well as criticizing traditional
- 4:22methodologies and how, you know, using more advanced methods can
- 4:26yield far superior results. So we're actually like, I, I
- 4:30don't like to tutor on whore. We're weirdly qualified to talk
- 4:32about this topic. And because we spent so much
- 4:34time, energy and effort and the hours that we used to work were
- 4:38insane because it was a really high, fast start, high paced
- 4:41startup. I remember I've done like so
- 4:43many like 1820 hour days, like many days in a row.
- 4:47It was very challenging, especially with our Japanese
- 4:51clients. I just remember all the time
- 4:53saying laid up into the night, making sure that they got the
- 4:56support that they needed. So it's brings back some good
- 4:59and bad memories. But we were in AI.
- 5:02Everyone likes to say in the current matcha landscape that
- 5:05they entered it before the matcha boom.
- 5:07And I'm very proud to say that we were working on that.
- 5:10I had started working on that 2014 way before this, like cha
- 5:13chi, TP moment and Sam. I think you joined in 20 2018
- 5:182018. Yeah, it was a interesting time
- 5:22because this at the time, new technology really kind of
- 5:26revolutionized how people perceive and understand sensory
- 5:30from a traditional perspective. Like the the the art and science
- 5:33of sensory had exist for a long time.
- 5:36The whole modern sensory concept really started from 18 is
- 5:41developed to these days with very minimal changes on the
- 5:44understanding of how people perceive and understand and
- 5:48articulate flavors. So our technology really kind
- 5:52of, you know, solve the pinpoint of like if when you are coming
- 5:56from a different cultural background, different age,
- 5:59different socio economic status, different exposure to their own
- 6:02flavor. Like how do you make people
- 6:05essentially understand each other in terms of what are you
- 6:08tasting differently or what you're tasting?
- 6:11You are tasting something that's actually the same, but you're
- 6:13just using different ways to describe.
- 6:15So why is that important? Why do you need to know people's
- 6:18perceptual differences? That's super important.
- 6:20Like with this is actually you are trying to.
- 6:23What you are trying to do or what a lot of these people
- 6:26trying to do back in the days is just set up a language, a
- 6:29vocabulary set that people can essentially communicate with
- 6:32each other in terms of flavor. And without that vocabulary,
- 6:37like you you we are basically talking over each other and not
- 6:40nothing can essentially get done by the end of the day.
- 6:43Yeah, but if you're a food and beverage company, why does it
- 6:45matter so much? Why can't you just ask someone
- 6:48how much they like a particular product?
- 6:50Well, I mean like if you are a very tiny studio developing a
- 6:54lemonade for your local community, it's probably fine.
- 6:57But for a lot of these, like larger companies with the
- 7:00international audience, like sitting in the lab in New York
- 7:04City making a formulation of the new yoga, like you won't
- 7:07necessarily understand the preference of like some
- 7:12middle-aged female in Southeast Asia that you are speaking
- 7:15different language, you you like different things.
- 7:18And you're literally tasting different.
- 7:20Things literally tasting different things in the same
- 7:22product. So that's not going to work
- 7:26right? Like you are not going to create
- 7:28or like if you are insanely lucky, maybe you do, but
- 7:31frequently you run into situation that you are not going
- 7:35to create a product that it will be liked by that particular
- 7:38audience. So our AI at the time was
- 7:42basically like imagine like a Google Translate, but you know
- 7:46doing that in terms of flavor. So you perception and
- 7:49perception. So you can input your own
- 7:52perception into the platform and the AI understands both consumer
- 7:55cohorts in terms of their tasting habit, the language that
- 8:00they'd like to use and also like things that all the flavor
- 8:03combinations that they like. So they can translate what the
- 8:06New York formulators perception and preference into the target
- 8:11audience preference and perception.
- 8:13And using that layer of translation, we can tell the
- 8:17formulators to tweak the formulation ingredients to
- 8:20create something that people will like.
- 8:22Yeah. So setting a bit of context.
- 8:24So if any of the Machu founders or even like consumers out
- 8:27there, research sensory methodologies to bring into
- 8:30their own practice, either for product development or for
- 8:34sourcing or for even just enjoying matcha as a product and
- 8:37then taking really good notes. The most common analysis or the
- 8:42most common method for tasting that you'll probably come across
- 8:45is something called descriptive analysis.
- 8:47And descriptive analysis actually has a descriptive name.
- 8:50It's literally where you describe the flavors that you're
- 8:53tasting and you're not passing judgment on if it's good or if
- 8:56it's bad, and you're just quantifying it across some set
- 9:00of what are called attributes it.
- 9:03So they might be something like bitter or sweet or sour or umami
- 9:07or vegetal. All are potential attributes.
- 9:11But because different product categories are so diverse,
- 9:14right, like if you're tasting something like wine versus
- 9:17something like coffee versus something like matcha, the
- 9:19frequency of different flavors can be very different, right?
- 9:23To detect something like a seaweed note, it's probably
- 9:27pretty rare in a wine, but might be very common in something like
- 9:30a matcha. So this is where what we call
- 9:32lexicon development comes in. And lexicon is basically a
- 9:36predetermined set of words usually chosen by experts in a
- 9:40field that have they have decided that these attributes
- 9:44are important to the set. And there are always compromises
- 9:48when you're doing lexicon development.
- 9:51It is a form of reduction. It's a form of generalization.
- 9:55There's always some like compression data loss.
- 9:59So let's do let's invert this problem.
- 10:01Let's say you're tasting A matcha and I give you a single
- 10:04attribute, bitter. You can rank it on how bitter
- 10:07you find it, or I can give you 2 attributes, bitter and umami.
- 10:11Now we've added two dimensions and then you can keep adding and
- 10:15adding and adding and adding flavor, getting more and more
- 10:18and more dimensions. But still, let's say you taste a
- 10:21sweet scallop or oyster note. Or are you like these little
- 10:26tiny baby clams that they have in Japan?
- 10:28You have the very umami. She did me clam.
- 10:31Let's say you taste that. Let's say you're very lucky and
- 10:34you get to taste this in a matcha.
- 10:35There's probably not an attribute for that somewhere.
- 10:39So it's still a form of data reduction and what they do
- 10:42traditionally to get around the fact that, let's say for
- 10:45example, I'm half American, half Korean, ethnically speaking, Sam
- 10:50is 100% Chinese, ethnically speaking, because of genetic
- 10:54differences, because of the fact that Sam grew up in Guangzhou
- 10:56and I grew up in Pennsylvania. And our two year age difference,
- 11:00you know, all of these factors can contribute to the fact that
- 11:03we might literally might not be looking at the same painting, so
- 11:07to speak, when we're tasting matcha.
- 11:08So what you do historically is something called reference
- 11:12training or calibration. So for example, we would prepare
- 11:15a sucrose solution at some percentage sugar to water and we
- 11:19both taste it. We say, okay, we taste this, we
- 11:22agree it's a three out of five on sweetness, and this is going
- 11:25to be our anchor. And you can do this across many,
- 11:27many, many different flavors. And now what you've done is
- 11:30you've calibrated us so you're essentially treating a human
- 11:33like a dumb instrument. And that is, quite frankly, the
- 11:36only way descriptive analysis is going to work in a logically
- 11:40consistent way when you're doing any form of.
- 11:44Analytical tasting. Tasting or data collection for
- 11:48matcha I'm so say you get together a group of 10-15 people
- 11:52and you ask everyone to rank across some arbitrary set of
- 11:55attributes that you have determined are important.
- 11:57The variance that you see in that data or the different
- 12:00scores that you see for bitterness are not any form of
- 12:04right or wrong. They're just different because
- 12:07people literally might taste the sample or the matcha more
- 12:10bitter, and some people might take it taste it less bitter,
- 12:14which leads to some pretty challenging things in
- 12:16characterizing matcha. So like, what should matcha
- 12:19brands do? Like, should they be creating
- 12:22these little flavor charts to communicate the relative degrees
- 12:26of bitterness or umami or creaminess or vegetal?
- 12:29And if they do do that, how do they decide what attributes
- 12:33matter? Like the ones that I just talked
- 12:35about, you know, you hear them tossed around a lot, but like,
- 12:38what do you think the probability is that it's going
- 12:40to encompass the whole flavor profile and that someone looks
- 12:44at that and agrees that, yeah, it it's about right?
- 12:48Yeah. Yeah, I mean pretty low is what
- 12:50I'm thinking. Like like for a bitterness 5
- 12:53like first of all, like frequently like 5 out of what?
- 12:58Like what is the scale that they're using?
- 13:00Sometimes it's like very vague. That's the first way.
- 13:02Second, like even if you have a scale system to to inform people
- 13:07the measurement like you like people don't essentially you
- 13:10don't essentially know the sweetness or the bitterness
- 13:14tolerance of the audience that you're talking to.
- 13:17Like those data or those things are essentially meaningless.
- 13:21And what's probably only meaningful is that you have a
- 13:24portfolio of product and then you have a bitterness level 1,
- 13:28bitterness Level 3 and the bitterness level 5.
- 13:31And people can just locally compare those products and tell
- 13:35themselves, OK, this one is less bitter and this one is morbid.
- 13:38So you anchor them in your own references.
- 13:40Yeah, in that particular context.
- 13:43But what happens when next year's harvest comes around and
- 13:46bitter Level 3 changes? Well, it will still be bitter
- 13:49Level 3 and it will still be Hatsu Mukashi.
- 13:52You know, it's a different product.
- 13:53Yeah. So what should companies do?
- 13:55Should they just give a bunch of hasting notes?
- 13:58Should they try to be very specific like cuz ultimately
- 14:01what we're trying to do is market products to consumers,
- 14:05how do we get and let them know what to expect?
- 14:08So for example, I love hazelnut notes in matcha.
- 14:12When that hazelnut note shows up, I am like very primed to
- 14:15like it. And I actually really like
- 14:17seeing that in the description. But also if they're ranking the
- 14:20attributes of many different important flavors like
- 14:23bitterness or umami or creaminess and they're wrong, I
- 14:26feel lied to. And essentially, as a brand, you
- 14:29need to be extremely conservative in this because
- 14:32there is going to be natural variation in perception and you
- 14:35need to account for the lowest common denominator or risk a
- 14:39pretty large amount of cognitive dissonance in terms of
- 14:42expectation that's created by the label and the reality of
- 14:47their primary sensory experience.
- 14:49Because I personally have ordered matcha that was sort of
- 14:51a budget everyday matcha that was advertised as not bitter at
- 14:55all from a really, you know, prominent US brand.
- 14:59And like, it was horrid. I don't know how anyone in good
- 15:03conscience could call that not bitter.
- 15:05Maybe you're just different, Ryan.
- 15:07Maybe. But yeah, I agree, it's really,
- 15:11really difficult. Like honestly, I don't have a
- 15:14good answer of a solution to that because it's not even just
- 15:19about the measurements of these flavor intensities, but
- 15:23sometimes the flavor itself. Like when you are using some
- 15:26kind of a very local description, like certain type
- 15:29of like what would you say certain type of clam or certain
- 15:32type of Kwimbu or like even like hazelnuts.
- 15:36Like there are like some places or some area, regions in the
- 15:40world just not being, you know, that that's not really a common
- 15:43ingredient. Like they, they probably like
- 15:45that it's still meaningless to them.
- 15:47So yeah, it's a, it's a, it's a, it's an interesting question.
- 15:51I mean, like we kind of invented the solution to that, that we no
- 15:54longer have access to that technology.
- 15:56I wish we do. Yeah.
- 15:57But Even so, I mean, even if you're able to translate across
- 16:00languages, it's not like you have a digital product label
- 16:04where you can change it depending on, you know, where
- 16:07it's going. So it's actually a really tricky
- 16:09problem and. If you want to do it well.
- 16:12If you want to do it. If you want to take it seriously
- 16:15and as a very sensory science perspective.
- 16:18So there's a couple of frameworks that we've seen and
- 16:21that I've really liked over the years.
- 16:23One of them is from Johnny Macha and he describes like sort of
- 16:27the archetypal characteristics that other people like about
- 16:32certain cultivars. So he doesn't like give.
- 16:35At least he didn't. This was I guess about a year
- 16:38ago when I saw this. He doesn't say my Asahi tastes
- 16:42like this, this, this and this. He said Asahi generally tastes
- 16:46like this and these are flavors that people generally like about
- 16:50it. So it's not top down, it's
- 16:52bottom up. It's just giving someone
- 16:54knowledge and context enough to appreciate it and to and make a
- 16:57judgment for themselves. So I think this is really cool.
- 17:00Yeah, it's enough ambiguity for people to kind of leave
- 17:04imagination for people to explore themselves or disagree,
- 17:08disagree with. Yeah, a specific tasting notes.
- 17:12I've like all of the matcha that we've purchased recently and I
- 17:15taste it. I like to taste it before
- 17:17reading the tasting notes. And I'm like, I don't know if I
- 17:21agree, But of course you can incept people too.
- 17:25So that's the other piece of interesting magic that's done in
- 17:28the food and beverage industry in general is that you can cue
- 17:31people into certain flavors or different aspects and they're
- 17:34much, much, much more likely to, I first like, perceive and
- 17:38identify them and then say whether or not they like or
- 17:41dislike them. And so that's actually a huge
- 17:43risk when you're putting flavors on a label is say someone like
- 17:48me, I don't like grassiness and matcha.
- 17:50If anyone's putting that on the descriptor, I might have not.
- 17:53I've not tasted it. But now that I've read it, I'm
- 17:55primed. And now that I'm primed, the
- 17:57probability that I will taste it and that it will become my
- 18:01reality is much higher. Yeah, yeah.
- 18:04And one way to kind of navigate it and we kind of been seeing
- 18:09people doing in the world of Scotch tasting is we frequently
- 18:15called those people poets is to kind of bury that inception into
- 18:20some very poetic and, you know, descriptive like scene.
- 18:25Like this Scotch tastes like, you know, the ocean currents
- 18:28striking on the piece of rock covered with like seaweed or
- 18:33like this. This tastes like as if I'm
- 18:36walking in the pine forest after a rainy day.
- 18:40Like this kind of very descriptive, descriptive, yet
- 18:43kind of flavorful, animated, flavorful kind of scene
- 18:50description. It's it's a different way to
- 18:52kind of insect people, but leading towards a more positive
- 18:56outcome of that inception. It's not like a direct inception
- 18:59like people tend to think about, like something more beautiful
- 19:02when you articulate a beautiful scene.
- 19:05No, that's true. And it's a nice like honest way
- 19:08of incepting people too, because you see a lot of dishonesty in
- 19:11this type of marketing. Like it's not bitter at all or
- 19:14it's very umami or super creamy. And if it just doesn't translate
- 19:17in the cup and quite frankly for like, it might not be that much
- 19:20a brand owners fault. You know, maybe someone like
- 19:24bought it and waited two months and didn't get to it.
- 19:27Maybe it was given to them as a gift, but it was a re gift and
- 19:30it was sitting in someone's cabinet for, you know, who knows
- 19:33how long. Maybe it was like really hot
- 19:36summer day and it got stuck in some warehouse when it was being
- 19:39mailed to them and it degraded very quickly.
- 19:42Like, you know, you just don't know what's causing this type of
- 19:45variation, which, you know, leads to some potential risk.
- 19:49But I think it really comes down to just understanding your
- 19:51consumers and what they like and dislike, like what will prime
- 19:55them and be honest about it. If that flavor is not in the
- 19:57product, don't put it on. But you know if someone and you
- 20:00like know very clearly. A large part of my consumer base
- 20:05loves dark chocolate notes. Maybe that makes more sense to
- 20:08call it out because the reality is any one of these matchas
- 20:11probably has anywhere between 10 to 20.
- 20:14Some of the more complex ones, maybe even more identifiable
- 20:17flavors where someone could quite honestly say and they go
- 20:20through a list saying I, I taste some, some woodiness, some
- 20:23earthiness, A slight mushroom notes and dashi, some toasted
- 20:28nori notes. It's creamy, kind of like
- 20:30unsalted butter. There's a little bit of lemon
- 20:32zest has a nice after taste, almost reminds me of hot
- 20:35chocolate or something like that, right.
- 20:38Like it's there's a lot of different potential ways of
- 20:41describing this. So what do you think about
- 20:43flavor wheels, Sam? You see these all the all over,
- 20:46like specialty coffee and wine and all of and chocolate.
- 20:51A lot of people use flavor wheels, but what do we think
- 20:53about those? Good, bad, neutral.
- 20:55Yeah, I mean the wield itself and for most contacts when
- 20:59people using it, it's still a form of reduction, right?
- 21:02You like, you only will have a number of axes on the flavor
- 21:06bill for you to select and for you to to to interact with.
- 21:11So, So what we have done in the previous technology is that we
- 21:15introduce a secondary kind of description layer underneath the
- 21:19flavor. Well.
- 21:20So when you actually click into a certain axis and select the
- 21:23intensity of, for example, like fruity, you can actually input
- 21:27what kind of fruit are you actually tasting like do you
- 21:30like that flavor or you not, or it's a neutral flavor to you.
- 21:34So that's kind of difficult to to rendered when this wheel is
- 21:39printed on the sheet of paper or on your package.
- 21:42Like it's just not possible. One of the real weaknesses of
- 21:46these wheels, too, is they attempt to do some form of
- 21:49categorization. So the worst forms of
- 21:52categorization are color. Colors are not flavors.
- 21:55You cannot have a yellow section, a red section, a green
- 21:58section, A bronze section. I mean, you do hear sometimes
- 22:02like flavourists and people who work in the industry talk about
- 22:06the concept of a green flavor or a brown flavor, but like, what
- 22:11does that mean? And especially what does that
- 22:13mean to someone who's not in industry?
- 22:16Probably people have very different ideas in their mind.
- 22:19But also you don't want to pigeonhole yourself because
- 22:22there's a lot of flavor expressions that have really
- 22:26different tonalities. So something like what's a good
- 22:29example? Even something like caramel,
- 22:31right? Caramel can be very sweet
- 22:34expression. It can be an incredibly butter
- 22:36expression, even a very very dark caramels, almost burnt and
- 22:40have more roasted characteristics of caramel.
- 22:43You can have salted caramel, which have more mineral
- 22:47characteristics and coming from the salt, and you can have
- 22:50various forms of smoked caramel, perhaps depending on the
- 22:53ingredients that it's coming from and the sugar, the butter
- 22:56being used. And you can have like all of
- 22:59them above, just in different intensity.
- 23:01Yeah, absolutely. So like why does it just have to
- 23:04exist under one particular category, you know, when 1
- 23:08category could be something like roasted, but the other category
- 23:11could be a very like dairy forward expression of caramel?
- 23:15Yeah. And sometimes like flavors like
- 23:19egg, like really you, you it's kind of really hard to
- 23:23categorize that flavor, you know, based on a very
- 23:26generalized flavor category. Saltire or is it like meat?
- 23:30Is it like a pastry? It's.
- 23:34Like salted egg. Or salted egg, like salted egg.
- 23:37Or is it like a super soft like onsen egg that's still runny?
- 23:42Very different expressions, all the same word and all the same
- 23:46ingredient. Yeah, yeah.
- 23:47Like when people are using like a single flavor or like like egg
- 23:53or like caramel to describe a product or a flavor profile,
- 23:59people like sometimes don't understand the flavor itself is
- 24:02also a very complex flavor combination itself.
- 24:05So it's almost a little bit, how do I say that?
- 24:09It's almost like a tautology, like people using a complex
- 24:13system to describe another complex system, which is
- 24:16something that we frequently run into.
- 24:18It's like calling matcha tea like.
- 24:20Yeah. Actually.
- 24:21Or calling a tea matcha. There I actually call a lot of
- 24:25matcha tea like and what that means to.
- 24:28I know exactly what it means in my own head.
- 24:30I don't think it's anything close to what you might think,
- 24:33Sam, or what anyone else might. I kind of get what you mean,
- 24:37like, but well, I also don't actually know, yeah.
- 24:43So it's, it's it's very tricky. So I think these flavor wheels
- 24:47that are more consumer facing kind of like the specialty
- 24:49coffee association SCA flavor wheel for coffee, you know,
- 24:53there is their utility. Absolutely.
- 24:56Like if you want to prime consumers to notice subtlety and
- 25:01nuance in a product's flavor profile, you can read through
- 25:05that list and you it's much more likely that you'll identify a
- 25:08flavor if you read it. Oh, it's like, Oh yeah, exactly.
- 25:12It tastes just like this or Oh yeah, I definitely get that
- 25:15Raspberry note in it. And now I really like it even
- 25:17more. But I wouldn't have thought
- 25:19about it because tasting is work.
- 25:21Like the cognitive load on identifying and articulating
- 25:25your primary sensory perception with anything is a lot of work.
- 25:30We used to say there is no Zen in sensory.
- 25:33Really high like cognitive load. And if you do like tastings for
- 25:37a few hours, you leave like exhausted.
- 25:39And we used to do this all day with consumers.
- 25:42Like we've trained, I've trained probably close to 10,000
- 25:44consumers on how to articulate their perception and preference
- 25:48of, you know, all sorts of different food and beverage
- 25:50products and you leave at the end of the day so tired.
- 25:55I can't tell you how many like sensory reviews I've done and
- 25:58then have out of how many products.
- 26:00But you know, we really encourage everyone to be true to
- 26:03themselves and not try try to pick some reductionist
- 26:07methodology or necessarily even try to invent their own wheel
- 26:11beyond what how it's helpful for you.
- 26:13And you really have to think about the utility.
- 26:16Descriptive analysis has a very specific utility.
- 26:20It's to understand and to replicate data of different
- 26:24products so that anyone can taste it who's gone through that
- 26:28training. And if they tasted again
- 26:30blindly, they're going to give you the same results as if they
- 26:32tasted again blindly as the same results as someone else in
- 26:35another part of the world. And then you can start like, you
- 26:38know, changing the chemicals or the flavors in that in that
- 26:42sample. And then you can pretty reliably
- 26:45understand and see what the difference is.
- 26:47Scriptive analysis really is not necessary for most brands and it
- 26:53will take you so far away from your own perception because
- 26:57you'd have to go through that form of reference training and
- 27:00it will take you even further away from your consumers
- 27:03perception. And then you have things like
- 27:04deductive tasting, like you see the wine people do where they
- 27:07try to guess. They taste for information like,
- 27:09oh, this tastes like Pinot noir, this tastes like Burgundy, or
- 27:13this tastes like this or that, or this tastes like it went
- 27:16through this type of fermentation.
- 27:17And that's very useful if you're sourcing.
- 27:19It might be very useful if you're blending or involved in
- 27:22agriculture. But again, it has to have some
- 27:25end objective. So there is no such thing as
- 27:28sensory for the sake of sensory. You need to have some goal in
- 27:32mind, whether or not it's communicating that flavor to the
- 27:35consumer. In which case we think it might
- 27:37be even better just to learn what their preferences are,
- 27:40taste it, and make sure that you're highlighting the things
- 27:43that they will like. Can literally be that simple.
- 27:45Yeah, make it simple. Actually.
- 27:46The amount of time people will actually spend on reading the
- 27:50sensory attributes on the label and also all understand all the
- 27:54flavor bills that that that that people set up for their own
- 27:57product is probably very low. Yeah, and understanding their
- 28:00use cases as well, like there might be reason why someone
- 28:04wants bitterness or doesn't want bitterness or wants complexity
- 28:08or doesn't want complexity. Like you just don't know, like
- 28:12the decision matrix that's going on in someone's head and that
- 28:15matters like so much more than putting on some arbitrary flavor
- 28:20wheel where we don't know what you mean.
- 28:22Why bitterness is level 5, for example.
- 28:25Yeah, like it like it because like I think this whole
- 28:28discussion actually needs to be move around intensity, which put
- 28:32another way, will it still taste good if it's diluted, which is
- 28:36the case for most lattes Americanos using as ingredient?
- 28:40I think that's super interesting.
- 28:42I think some level of bitterness.
- 28:43Bitterness is a pretty strong dis preference.
- 28:45So some people might avoid it. And then at the high end, really
- 28:50articulating potential flavor notes that you think that they
- 28:52will like that they'll find in these cans that might highlight
- 28:55or be characteristic of those particular flavors.
- 28:59Honzu shaded or shaded for a really long period of time, like
- 29:0340 days. What about that specific can
- 29:07stood out to you when you decided to make it part of the
- 29:10selection? And it it's much more authentic
- 29:12to your own sourcing about that product to like deconstruct your
- 29:18decision to bring this to market and what you love about it.
- 29:22And if you frame it this way, not only is it more authentic to
- 29:25yourself, you're not telling anyone that this is the best and
- 29:29you should taste it. And it is the best version of
- 29:31umami and the best thing in the entire world in Japan, which is
- 29:35like what everyone else is saying at the moment, like it's
- 29:38a, it's a, it takes you further and further away.
- 29:42And it's also a bit more nuanced than saying this is specifically
- 29:45for latte. Why don't we say this is a high
- 29:47intensity matcha that can stand up to dilution both with milk
- 29:52and ice, or this was specifically formulated for
- 29:55milk. And this is what we did to get
- 29:58this outcome that we wanted. We wanted some bitterness, but
- 30:02we also didn't want it just to be bitter.
- 30:04We wanted it to express creamy flavors and give this real sense
- 30:08of verdant freshness. And that is characteristic of
- 30:10this uji matcha blend. And not only did we do this, we
- 30:13worked with the chashi to make sure that those notes really
- 30:16shine. Whether or not it's an oat milk,
- 30:18cow milk, almond milk, soy milk, doesn't matter.
- 30:21We've tasted it and we think that these this is what we did
- 30:24and why. And here's what we hope that you
- 30:26enjoy. It's something that I think
- 30:28would be be much better to see instead of saying, Yep, latte
- 30:31one, it's too reductionist. I think we're a lot of times
- 30:37underestimating, underestimating the interest or potential
- 30:41interest and intellectual capacity of the consumer and
- 30:45what they want and showing intention.
- 30:48Or, and like if you do have the opportunity, go talk to your
- 30:51consumers, go learn about their preference.
- 30:53One thing that we really kind of learned throughout the way after
- 30:57doing so many product testing across different countries is
- 31:01that people's difference, like taste difference is enormous.
- 31:05Like we used to kind of in order to calibrate the AI, we need to
- 31:09use a standard set of product with very similar formulations
- 31:13across different continents to have people taste that set of
- 31:17products so that you know, the AI can understand, can have the
- 31:19anchor to understand people's preference and their perception
- 31:23in different cohorts and. Results were wild.
- 31:26It was wild. Like one of the soda product
- 31:29that we use, like poke, like even some of the very basic
- 31:33flavors like if this is sweet or if you think this is bitter or
- 31:37not, can be widely different across different countries.
- 31:41You go to like Germany every The first word out of everyone's
- 31:45mouth is sweet, too sweet. I don't like it.
- 31:48And then you take it to a place like Philippines or Thailand.
- 31:51The first word that they say is bitter.
- 31:53Yeah. It's pretty interesting.
- 31:55It's very interesting, like people can be so different in a
- 31:59very fundamental way, which is something that we want to
- 32:02encourage you to actually go talk to your audience and just
- 32:05learn what they like or dislike. You might have some very
- 32:08interesting discovery. And This is why I think the
- 32:10specialty matcha movement should and will be a local movement.
- 32:15I believe that all of these traditional companies and blend
- 32:18houses in Japan do a very good job creating really well
- 32:21balanced products that are probably liked by most people
- 32:25and they have access to some of the highest quality matcha to
- 32:28create them. But they're still from a very
- 32:31narrow demographic profile with I would characterize very little
- 32:35curiosity or understanding of international consumers
- 32:39preferences beyond the fact that they like lattes and what they
- 32:42think, even what they think tastes good in a latte really
- 32:45just might not translate, which is why this really needs to be a
- 32:49local movement. Yeah, yeah.
- 32:50Like health, You know what, What, what people sometimes
- 32:53don't realize is that, you know, when you're tasting a latte,
- 32:56you're not actually, you know, just tasting, you know, the
- 32:59difference of the tea, the difference of milk really makes
- 33:03a humongous difference. You know, like the for, for the
- 33:06formulators in Japan, the type of milk that they're going to
- 33:09use is probably be very different from the milk that you
- 33:12can get access to locally. And that will really have, you
- 33:16know, a different flavor impact on the final product.
- 33:18So like, you might actually accidentally just end up buying
- 33:23a matcha that was made from matcha latte, but it's not
- 33:27suitable for your local milk, which is totally possible.
- 33:30Totally possible. So to end our sensory episode,
- 33:34we thought we would do some sensory.
- 33:35One of the first things is a recent discovery that I really
- 33:38wanted to share is that I We have been doing matcha sensory
- 33:43exclusively on Usucha and we were very quick to judge some
- 33:47matcha samples in the past and we have the same ones actually
- 33:51newer harvest now. I was doing some random
- 33:54experimentation at home. It was a really hot day.
- 33:57I was running out of the matcha that I liked, so I was low on
- 34:02stocks and I I found one that I had tasted.
- 34:05It had been open for a while and I really hated it as usuchai.
- 34:09I thought it was bitter ploying, super intense, very unpleasant
- 34:14in a lot of different ways. And I dumped it in a glass of
- 34:17ice water. The bitterness like almost
- 34:20evaporated, metaphorically speaking, and it was delicious.
- 34:24Like what temperature and dilution does to matcha is like
- 34:29really non linear in the flavor profile transformation.
- 34:33It was like literally a different tea.
- 34:35So we're going to do that actually with the exact same
- 34:37tea. And Sam, I'll get your
- 34:38impressions. We're going to prepare it as an
- 34:40usucha and then an iced americano and we'll get your
- 34:43impressions. All right.
- 34:45Maybe not quite right. All right, so I just prepared 2
- 34:47samples in front of you. One is Usucha, standard ratio, 2
- 34:51grams to 60 mils, normal temperature, water on 75°C, and
- 34:56I made a diluted version. This is an Oku Midori, no
- 35:00fertilizer, no pesticide, tea from earlier this spring from
- 35:03Mazuka. So Sam, why don't you try the
- 35:05Usucha first? All right, so this tea is very
- 35:10creamy, very, very floral, bitter, some stringency tastes,
- 35:14but it's kind of sharp, still has a lot of green, kind of a
- 35:18characteristic grassy, and the foam is even a little bit soapy,
- 35:22so. Yeah, I got a similar notes.
- 35:24It really has quite a bite. A bitter and astringent bite,
- 35:28but super creamy. I got a sweet pea note that it
- 35:31has a bitter after taste, but kind of in a pleasant way,
- 35:34similar to like an Amaro and kind of bitter after taste that
- 35:37kind of forms a sweetness, has nice body, but definitely has
- 35:42this tonic bite. I think the average matcha
- 35:45consumer who is used to umami bombs or used to no bitterness
- 35:49at all would probably not like this in the same way that a,
- 35:53let's say a normal latte drinker might not like a plain espresso.
- 35:57So let's try this diluted with ice and we're back.
- 36:00So did you taste them? Well, the bitterness certainly
- 36:04vanished. Very, very, very low bitterness
- 36:07got some hints of nuttiness and some very light creaminess and
- 36:11some hint of seaweed. But overall, the flavor profile
- 36:14is really kind of reduced into into a dilution I feel like.
- 36:21That the profile is just incredibly different.
- 36:24It's very, very different. Especially with the bitterness.
- 36:27Like I think everything that someone who would have hated
- 36:30this is usucha. Everything they disliked about
- 36:33it would have disappeared in dilution with ice.
- 36:36Certainly. Certainly.
- 36:37So I got a light cashew note, no bitterness at all.
- 36:41I got found it very creamy, very light, ephemeral and got a
- 36:44little bit of sort of the unsalted butter sweetness.
- 36:48Yeah, I can get a little bit of that too.
- 36:50But it was a very light drink. I mean, we, we're not using very
- 36:53big cups, we're not diluting it that much.
- 36:55And we use 2 grams of tea. So it's a pretty normal dilution
- 36:59ratio, but it just shows host the magic of this preparation
- 37:03method. And like if the majority of your
- 37:05drinks are being served iced or diluted, which is like a lot of
- 37:10cafes, we highly recommend expanding beyond Usucha as
- 37:14sensory unless you can build a very strong mental model
- 37:18personally about understanding what it tastes like undiluted
- 37:22versus diluted or hot or cold or water versus milk.
- 37:26So it's a pretty difficult. Very difficult.
- 37:28The transformation honestly is enormous.
- 37:30And it's not that like predictable, like I don't, I
- 37:34didn't taste anything related to the flavors that I got diluted
- 37:39with ice in the normal usicha. So actually, I think we need to
- 37:42embrace a little bit of a culture of waste.
- 37:44But I think matcha is so precious and so scarce that, you
- 37:48know, we don't want to taste a lot of samples back-to-back to
- 37:51back done in many different ways.
- 37:52And I'm not saying we should waste matcha, but just like the
- 37:55coffee people are not afraid to throw away samples after they're
- 38:00done, we should be the same. Like we're professionals in this
- 38:03industry. We should all treat ourselves as
- 38:05if we are professionals. And part of that is working
- 38:08through doing the sensory evaluations.
- 38:10And you cannot reasonably ask yourself to consume like 10 to
- 38:1515 grams of matcha in a setting that would be required to taste
- 38:19through everything, especially in very different form factors,
- 38:23in a genuine and honest way other than just taking usucha
- 38:27and dumping in a splash of milk. Like it can tell you some
- 38:30sensory information but it's really not the same than
- 38:33properly measuring it and understanding the actual drink
- 38:36that is getting created and delivered to the consumer.
- 38:39Absolutely. I mean, like just the sheer
- 38:42amount of caffeine that you are going to intake by consuming so
- 38:45many samples at once, it's not necessarily very healthy.
- 38:48And there's also this idea of taste fatigue, like after
- 38:53tasting too many samples at once in a very short period of time,
- 38:57you are actually not going to be able to taste the difference
- 39:00and. Yeah, Typically we recommend it
- 39:02caps out at around 6:00 to 8:00 samples.
- 39:05You don't want to do that many more because distinguishing them
- 39:09becomes more and more and more difficult.
- 39:11Obviously it really depends on how experienced you are and how
- 39:14good you are picking up subtlety and differences between samples.
- 39:17So, but even across 6 to 8, it's a lot of matcha and you cannot
- 39:21drink all of it, reasonably speaking.
- 39:25So I think it's totally fair that as this profession grows of
- 39:29sourcing and blending and creating specialty matcha
- 39:32products, figuring out the the sensory for sourcing, figuring
- 39:36out the sensory for quality control and consistency,
- 39:39figuring out the sensory for how we describe these products to
- 39:43consumers. It's a really, really important
- 39:46work. And we should not be too afraid
- 39:49to to pour a little bit of matcha down the drain in service
- 39:53of this greater mission, I think.
- 39:55Or just invite one of your friends to come over.
- 39:58Indeed, yes, If you can get a large enough group, even better.
- 40:01Or. We're going to do a fun
- 40:02exercise. I have been really obsessed with
- 40:05blending recently personally in my own practice, and we're going
- 40:08to do some eventual episodes about matcha blending, but I'm
- 40:12giving myself a personal challenge.
- 40:13I've got a decent amount of matcha to work with here where
- 40:16we're doing this tasting, and I'm going to have Sam tasted
- 40:20blind as Usucha, my blend against tenju.
- 40:23My favorite blend used to be. From Maruku Koya man and see if
- 40:29he can identify which is which and which one he likes more.
- 40:34And I fully expect to lose. Please don't view this as me
- 40:39challenging someone who's been doing this for probably twice
- 40:43the amount of time that I've been alive.
- 40:45Well, and also, who am I to, you know, judge the outcome?
- 40:49It's really my preference. So actually I have a lot of
- 40:52advantages. So I'm going to try to blend in
- 40:54the same style to achieve the same flavor profile outcome as
- 40:58what this product has to offer and what we've tasted.
- 41:01But I have have a huge advantage in that I know Sam's preferences
- 41:04so. That's interesting point.
- 41:06Oh, it's almost a personalized land.
- 41:08Versus some 80 year old chashi grandpa.
- 41:11So let's see how I do. I'm going to ask Sam to go into
- 41:14the other room and I'm going to prepare this and we'll see how I
- 41:16do. All right, fun.
- 41:18All right, and we're back. So I've prepared two cups for
- 41:22you here, Sam, and I'm going to start you off with cup #1.
- 41:28There you go. All right, I'm actually quite
- 41:29excited about this. So I believe we're using the
- 41:32same Tenju that we have opened about a week ago in Japan.
- 41:36Indeed, at the time I remember I was very disappointed about this
- 41:40particular Tenju from this batch.
- 41:42Tenju has ever been occupied a very special place of in my
- 41:46heart of my macho tasting journey because it was really my
- 41:49conversion. Blended product from Maruku
- 41:52Koyaman. Yeah, about a year ago, like I
- 41:55remember how the really fresh kind of like a olive oil note
- 42:00when we freshly opened that can back, you know, when this
- 42:03product was half about the price.
- 42:05Half the price. Less than half, actually.
- 42:07Yeah, yeah, yeah. Now like I, like we, we, we
- 42:10bought this 20 grand can for 12,000 year.
- 42:13Yep. So about 90.
- 42:14Bucks, OK. And it tastes like a different
- 42:17product when we opened it in Buji.
- 42:20So I'm going to try to find which one is which.
- 42:23So just by judging the color, one matcha is certainly like
- 42:29brighter green than the other, but the greener matcha has a
- 42:35slightly larger bubble than the other one, larger and thinner
- 42:39bubble. So that's all very interesting.
- 42:40So I'm going to try the first one, which is greener and the
- 42:44bubble is larger. You mean more fine as I'm
- 42:46staring at it The First off, what do you taste?
- 42:49The Mystery cup #1 What do you taste?
- 42:51It's definitely not super umami driven.
- 42:54A little bit more structure and nice bitterness.
- 42:57Interesting floral notes. It's almost like walking in, you
- 43:02know, a flower field, like a lot of white flower honeysuckle,
- 43:06some hint of like woody notes. It's leaning on the green end of
- 43:11the spectrum, but definitely not grassy, so pretty good.
- 43:14How would you describe like the umami or the creaminess and the
- 43:17depth? Umami I gifted A2.
- 43:23It's definitely like less umami than some of the, you know,
- 43:27umami bombs that what we will call and creaminess.
- 43:32It's pretty creamy. OK.
- 43:33And after taste and like. Pretty long lasting after taste
- 43:38and there's definitely kind of like a bite into it.
- 43:40It's, you know, not as like, I guess like very soft, very
- 43:45rounded, very oily compared to some of the other Wuji tea that
- 43:49we have tried. And on the balance scale, would
- 43:51you describe it as balanced or imbalance?
- 43:53Yeah, I would say this is balanced, very balanced product.
- 43:56Like a more harmonious combination of flavors.
- 43:59Yeah, and definitely more structured.
- 44:01OK, so number two, number two and I'll ask you the same
- 44:05question. Some immediate flush of umami
- 44:09and nori. The texture is super fine, very
- 44:12creamy like it's so like soft and juicy.
- 44:16It's almost chewy. Like, I think this is tangent,
- 44:20but it's also tastes different than the tangent that I had
- 44:24about a week ago when we opened the can.
- 44:26When we freshly opened the can. I think this actually improved,
- 44:30at least to my preference. I can get a hint of like the
- 44:33olive notes. It's more of a kind of like a
- 44:36meaty pickled or preserved olive versus a olive oil, which is
- 44:41what I loved a year ago. But this is.
- 44:44Yeah, yeah, Yeah. Well now I feel less regret
- 44:47paying 90 bucks for this for this can of matcha.
- 44:51So you I guessed them properly. Actually just staring at them
- 44:55it's pretty obvious. But how about how it compares to
- 44:58your preference? For my own preference, wow, now
- 45:01it's kind of hard to say. I will certainly pick your
- 45:04blend. If we're comparing to the Tenchu
- 45:07about a week ago, OK, But now I will say it's close to 5050.
- 45:11But in terms of you know, how interesting or how
- 45:16characteristic these Marchas are, I would pick your blend.
- 45:20But in terms, but in terms of like an objective like quality
- 45:25assessment, you know, kind of perspective, you know, tend to
- 45:28definitely taste more expensive and higher quality.
- 45:31Yeah, when we talk about quality, quality really is a
- 45:33social construct, and the best people at evaluating anything
- 45:39and when it comes to a quality perspective are really good at
- 45:42separating preferences from quality.
- 45:44So what does that mean? A Brewer for example, who makes
- 45:47beer might hate IP AS or stout beers, but they definitely can
- 45:51taste the difference between a high and low quality 1.
- 45:54So what is going on in their minds if they can make the
- 45:57quality assessment even if they don't like it?
- 45:59But really what it is, it's a guess about what other people
- 46:03would consider high or low quality.
- 46:06Sometimes it could mean balance, sometimes it could mean the
- 46:09present or absent of certain flavors.
- 46:11But it is a socially, it is a social construct.
- 46:15Very much so. And especially in the case of
- 46:18tea, not just Japanese tea, but also Chinese tea, like people
- 46:21always talk about, I can taste this processing into certainty.
- 46:25Like the processing is often the indicator of the quality or the
- 46:30intervention of human, you know, craftsmanship in a certainty.
- 46:36And that's oftentimes the indicator of the price or the
- 46:39value of that tea. Indeed.
- 46:40And actually when matcha first got introduced to Japan, you
- 46:44know, Japan was looking a lot to China and particularly looking a
- 46:47lot to TCM, our traditional Chinese medicine for different
- 46:51herbs and plants have different medical remedies and effects,
- 46:54etcetera. And it was actually tea was
- 46:57considered highly prized because it was bitter.
- 47:00Like preferences in Japan have literally changed away from
- 47:04bitterness in this very tea CM idea of this herbal health like
- 47:10random leaf into something that is much more umami driven that
- 47:14you know, it's gone along with other parts of Japanese culture
- 47:16as well with all the dashi and the nori and the kombu and all
- 47:20these various things that are really heavily have strong umami
- 47:25presence. Yeah, it's a very interesting
- 47:28and perfect reflection of general or average Japanese
- 47:32dietary preference. So I totally agree actually that
- 47:35the tanju tastes higher quality as we're sitting here tasting
- 47:38this. But I actually think when it
- 47:40comes to preference, it's probably a flip of the coin for
- 47:43a lot of people, which one they would end up preferring more.
- 47:47Actually, the umaminess might be a little too strange, a little
- 47:50too foreign for a lot of people who have less familiarity with
- 47:54Japanese cuisine and these these types of flavors, I think.
- 47:57Yes, indeed. I mean we're talking about
- 47:59higher quality from the lens of the evaluating Japanese matcha
- 48:04with the Japanese standard. But if we're talking about, you
- 48:07know, from a different perspective or from the consumer
- 48:10preference wise, you know, it's almost a meaningless to talk
- 48:13about the quality. Yeah, absolutely.
- 48:15So I'm going to share my blend components that I used.
- 48:18I did a 2G dose. I did half a gram of hanzu Sahi
- 48:22from Uji proper. I did half a gram of samidori to
- 48:25from hanzu samidori also from Uji proper.
- 48:29I did .7g so even more Oku midori standard conventional
- 48:35agriculture. That's where the green color is.
- 48:38The deep green, yeah, less of a, more of a deep green, less of a
- 48:41brilliant green. And I did .3G of a Yabukita that
- 48:46we have sourced from Hubei in mainland China.
- 48:50China. But this Yabukita was overseen
- 48:54and is basically produced by a Japanese company in China.
- 48:57And this is extremely expensive by wholesale standards.
- 49:02It costs over 350 U.S. dollars a kilo, which is madness for.
- 49:08Chinese matcha by Japanese wholesale standard, even like
- 49:11very expensive material. So it's but it's indeed, it's
- 49:15very good. You know on its own it lacks
- 49:18some umami, but actually it's a pretty good tasting creamy,
- 49:23interesting, not very bitter like probably blend component
- 49:27and it's approximately 15% of this blend which brings the cost
- 49:32down. So we're comparing a $90.00
- 49:34retail product and every component of this one that I
- 49:38blended is use the retail price other than that 15% of this
- 49:44Chinese matcha and it would cost about 20 four U.S. dollars.
- 49:47Retail is what the is inside this.
- 49:50Oh my God. So it's a little less than a
- 49:53four times price difference. That's what we call a business
- 49:57opportunity. Indeed.
- 50:00Wow, that's very surprising. Well, the Hubei Yabukita is on
- 50:05its own, like the color was impeccable, like really, really
- 50:10shiny bright green color. And the foam was also
- 50:14impeccable, like very velvety smooth foam.
- 50:17It's just lacks some complexity. I mean like the probably the
- 50:21intention of the purpose of the creation of this tea was to be
- 50:26used as a blend component. Almost certainly, and apparently
- 50:29a lot of this goes back to Japan.
- 50:31Yeah, they really view it much more of a high quality raw
- 50:35material perspective. But wow, this is actually it
- 50:39gives us a lot of hope. There's certainly a potential of
- 50:43interesting and high quality tea being created in China.
- 50:45Yeah, really big time. I think this is actually
- 50:47probably the best Chinese grown matcha that we produced and it's
- 50:52impeccably milled. It must be issue soon milled
- 50:54because the texture is either that or whoever is operating
- 50:58this ball mill or jet mill really knows what they're doing.
- 51:01Or maybe it's issue yusu, we don't know.
- 51:04Well, actually we've seen footage of that issue used to
- 51:06being used in. China and apparently we've heard
- 51:08complaints from Chinese producers that they can't get
- 51:11issue Usus as well. Same issue for the Japanese
- 51:14people, but I think it's this is definitely, we actually know for
- 51:17a fact that this is grown and overseen by a Japanese company
- 51:22that's outsourcing production to China and importing a lot back.
- 51:26So who knows, this might be a part of your blends that you
- 51:28enjoy when you go buy tea retail in Japan.
- 51:33Yeah. I don't think we should call
- 51:35stuff when it's not, but this on its own is really interesting
- 51:40and delicious, especially from a price to quality perspective and
- 51:43when you consider other people's preferences and you really have
- 51:46to think about what you're paying for.
- 51:48No, I mean, 10 Jews, still objectively higher quality.
- 51:51So we're going to do one last very interesting sample.
- 51:54It is Asahi from Uji proper, grown by Taishi San and his
- 51:59family and one is Honzu Asahi. That's conventional agriculture.
- 52:03So there's some use of pesticides and fertilizer.
- 52:06And then there's organic Asahi from same region, processed at
- 52:11the same factory, probably in a different batch or actually
- 52:14definitely in a different batch. And it is organic.
- 52:17So limited use of pesticides and organic fertilizer.
- 52:22So Kanesha. Kanesha, so different type of
- 52:24shading. So the Honju Asahi is like the
- 52:27Super traditional with the rice straw on top.
- 52:30And the other one is these black synthetic cloth canopies clothes
- 52:34and that cover it. So we're going to see if we can
- 52:36taste the difference and you know, use this sensory to
- 52:39describe it. All right, and we're back.
- 52:41So we just prepared 2 samples. Standard usage, 2 grams to 60
- 52:46mils of water. One.
- 52:48They're both from the same farmer, same season, mostly all
- 52:51controlled variables as far as we know.
- 52:53The difference is that one of them is organic and Kanesha, the
- 52:57other is conventional Hanzu Isaki.
- 53:00The color is already kind of a giveaway 1 is very, very like
- 53:05bright green and the other one, you know, it has a slight
- 53:08yellowish hue on the phone. So you know, my first gasp will
- 53:12be that one is the organic. Yeah.
- 53:14And also we know that the difference between Khande sha
- 53:17and Hanzu shading. Hanzu shading typically yields a
- 53:20lighter tensha in color, and then the Khande sha which is
- 53:24typically quite a bit more dark. Yeah, there are a couple of
- 53:27theories that goes into why you know these two methods resulting
- 53:31to different very different color of the tea bushes.
- 53:34Some people will argue that, you know, the Khande Sha is
- 53:37absorbing a certain, you know, a different spectrum of light
- 53:42versus Hong Zhu. And some other people would say
- 53:45that the way that Hong Zu scattered light on, you know,
- 53:48onto these tea bushes is inherently different than
- 53:51Khandlatia. So we we don't know.
- 53:53It's scientifically, scientifically for sure that you
- 53:57know, these are the reasons why, you know, all these tea bushes
- 54:01look different, but they certainly do look different, and
- 54:03the tea certainly do look and smell different.
- 54:06Yeah, indeed. So I guess we'll start with
- 54:07sample one. We set this up blind, so we
- 54:10don't know which is which. Sample one is the darker 1.
- 54:13Sample 2 is the lighter 1, so we'll start with the darker 1.
- 54:16Sample one. Oh wow.
- 54:17I'm almost certain that this is the organic.
- 54:20The initial punch of bitterness kind of just, you know, very
- 54:25obvious. I mean, we're using very high
- 54:27quality water, controlling for many variables, but there is
- 54:30definitely a noticeable bitterness.
- 54:33It's also very creamy as a nice after taste.
- 54:36Right after the Binaness, you have this burst of floral notes,
- 54:40very, very nice kind of white flowers and a little bit hint of
- 54:45like honey notes. Something that I do notice
- 54:48though, is that the texture of the matcha itself is a little
- 54:51bit grainy, and something that we've heard is that when you're
- 54:54doing ishusu milling, organic tanja tends to not quite mill as
- 55:00well as conventionally grown tanja.
- 55:03Yeah, the production yield between organic and convention
- 55:07is quite enormous. For with milling efficiency
- 55:10with. Milling.
- 55:11We've heard that some stones are like half as fast.
- 55:15So that's very interesting like that.
- 55:17So what what happens that you end up having these matcha
- 55:20powder getting stuck in the melt surface for longer period of
- 55:23time than conventional tensor. So I wagered that is probably
- 55:28the reason why this this matcha looks a little bit yellow or
- 55:32yellower than the conventional. One, some more heat in the mill
- 55:35longer potentially. I mean, we don't know.
- 55:38And it also could be too that this, the tension processing and
- 55:40steaming times might be slightly different because certainly the
- 55:43organic, from my understanding, when you do organic agriculture,
- 55:48you'll get slightly thicker leaves.
- 55:50The plant needs to be just a little more strong, resilient
- 55:53and robust because you're not spraying pesticides onto it.
- 55:56So it's got to build up its natural defenses and which
- 55:59naturally makes it a more robust plant versus the really soft,
- 56:03young tender leaves that, you know, don't have to worry about
- 56:07pesticides because you're doing conventional agriculture.
- 56:10Yeah. So people, so people probably
- 56:13end up, you know, steaming the leaf a little bit longer than
- 56:16conventional thinner leaves. Yeah, which supposedly also
- 56:19actually not supposedly it does deteriorate the color a bit less
- 56:22composed to very light steamed tea typically also makes it less
- 56:26terroir expressive and the cultivar you taste less the
- 56:29longer that you steam. It's like roasting.
- 56:32Roasting coffee exactly. Like if you roast coffee really
- 56:35darkly, it just starts tasting like roasted coffee.
- 56:38Similar thing for Japanese steamed tea.
- 56:40The longer you steam, the more it tastes like steamed tea.
- 56:43It's a homogenizer. Yeah.
- 56:45All right, let's try the next. Which we believe to be the Hansu
- 56:50Asahi. Conventional agriculture, which
- 56:53it is almost certainly is. The defining characteristic of
- 56:56the sea, is definitely umami and creaminess.
- 56:58I had almost described this as an umami bomb.
- 57:01Actually, it's a pretty intense umami.
- 57:03Yeah, like it's this very, very like upfront, like Nori and
- 57:09almost like clam juice kind of. Oh.
- 57:11Clam juice is a great reference. Yeah, it's very, very, very
- 57:15pronounced. And you know, the powder is
- 57:17certainly finer then they will get it.
- 57:19Yeah, it's buttery smooth. It has a really nice after
- 57:23taste. Not only does it have intensity
- 57:25and body that's coming from that umami, much higher body like
- 57:29less like structured matcha doesn't have the bitterness that
- 57:32the organic one does, but the after taste is very interesting
- 57:36and intense. Absolutely.
- 57:39But for all of the flavor notes and also the mouthfeel, you do
- 57:43like kind of still getting the very like overall soft kind of
- 57:48structure versus a organic 1, you do end up getting like a
- 57:52much more structured flavor profile.
- 57:54Indeed, indeed. But we keep hearing from many
- 57:58different people all across the industry about Japanese people
- 58:02and foreigners who who study this.
- 58:04Is that the single greatest, the single most important thing that
- 58:08determine much equality is fertilizer.
- 58:10But I think you really taste it in these samples.
- 58:13The conventional agriculture, by our understanding of Japanese
- 58:17quality standard, is just objectively better.
- 58:20Yeah. Like if you really internalize
- 58:23this kind of a reality, you know, you you almost need to
- 58:27treat fertilizer as part of the recipe of creating matcha.
- 58:30It is, you know, a very, very influential part of creating a
- 58:35flavor profile of a certain matcha.
- 58:38Like when we think about a fertilizer intuitively, we think
- 58:41about, you know, like in other crops, it's used to increase the
- 58:45yield. It's used to kind of make the
- 58:47plant more resilient to the climate.
- 58:50But in this particular case, when we are looking at matcha,
- 58:53it really has a tremendous impact on the flavor profile
- 58:57itself. So you almost need to treat it
- 59:00as part of the recipe, like as part of the ingredient that you
- 59:04know that creates a matcha. Yeah, and there's a cycle too.
- 59:07So the more fertilizer you add, the more pests that it attracts.
- 59:11So if you want a lot very nitrogen rich soil, everything
- 59:14loves nitrogen, you attract a lot of pests and therefore you
- 59:18need to spray and there's a cycle.
- 59:19So not only when you're doing organic agriculture, you're
- 59:23typically applying less and different types of fertilizer.
- 59:26Oftentimes they're less nitrogen rich, but you're also not
- 59:29spraying, which means that the plant has to adapt in various
- 59:32ways, which shows up in the even the look.
- 59:35If you look at organic tensha versus conventional tensha, it
- 59:38looks like more rigid, more brittle, less tender and soft.
- 59:44And you can tell not only when you look at the matcha, but you
- 59:47can tell when you look at the tensha.
- 59:48And it's pretty obvious. And it mills quite differently.
- 59:51And it ends up also probably creating more defense mechanisms
- 59:55that taste bitter, whether or not be caffeine or other
- 59:57compounds that really change the taste.
- 1:00:00And you know, I would wager that you know this organic Asahi.
- 1:00:04From Uji proper, if you put this in a blind tasting next to
- 1:00:08conventionally grown Oku Midori from Mazuka, for example, for a
- 1:00:12standard preference test in the United States or you know, most
- 1:00:15countries outside of Japan, I think the conventional
- 1:00:18agriculture from Mazuka would win that blind preference test
- 1:00:22simply because this organic product is just too bitter for
- 1:00:25those people's preferences, I would wager.
- 1:00:27Yeah, but if you dump them both into, you know, a cup of milk,
- 1:00:31it will not be, it will not be the same story.
- 1:00:34Yeah, probably the stronger one would come through, but there's
- 1:00:37a lot of interesting flavor interaction going on between
- 1:00:40these two samples too, because the presence of that fertilizer
- 1:00:43and whatever it's doing to the flavor profile outcome of the
- 1:00:45conventionally grown tea, it's a lot more subtle than nuance.
- 1:00:49When you don't have that dominant bitter note, I think
- 1:00:52you pick up quite a bit more subtlety and nuance that can get
- 1:00:56lost or masked by the presence of really high degrees of
- 1:00:59bitterness, which can end up being a pretty distracting
- 1:01:03element for some people, I think.
- 1:01:04Yeah. Certainly.
- 1:01:05And I mean, after all, like we we're talking about all these,
- 1:01:09you know, cultivation methods, all these cultivars, all of
- 1:01:12these interesting stories or even like gossips behind all of
- 1:01:16these, you know, production maneuvers of different types of
- 1:01:20matcha. But it all comes back to
- 1:01:22sensory. It all comes back to their
- 1:01:25impacts on the flavor profile. Like all comes back to like if
- 1:01:28you can taste it or if you find it to be pleasant or unpleasant
- 1:01:32or if you find it to be interesting.
- 1:01:34So I think this is like a very important part of this whole,
- 1:01:39you know, this whole specialty matcha movement is that we are
- 1:01:43trying to access this whole matcha industry, this whole
- 1:01:47matcha product from a very unique perspective, which is the
- 1:01:52flavor itself versus some other angles that has been
- 1:01:55historically taken by for example, Chano.
- 1:01:58Yu 100% because I mean, it's our primary perception with the
- 1:02:02product. That's what every time you have
- 1:02:04a sip of matcha, you're not just taking a simple of matcha.
- 1:02:07You are literally creating memory, memories and deep
- 1:02:10preferences. So it's a hedonic pleasure.
- 1:02:13But when you start layering on all of this other stuff, it
- 1:02:16turns into a very interesting story.
- 1:02:18You know, some some people would call that like connoisseurship,
- 1:02:20for example. But when it comes to sensory, I
- 1:02:23mean, there's so many reasons to do it.
- 1:02:26One is the sheer pleasure of enjoying the subtlety and nuance
- 1:02:30and different flavors of a product just for your own raw
- 1:02:34appreciation. Regardless of context.
- 1:02:36You're just enjoying this thing that's in front of you and
- 1:02:39appreciating its beauty. Not its visual beauty or the
- 1:02:44beauty from like, music or the beauty of touching something.
- 1:02:49The beauty of its taste in its pure, most primal and elemental
- 1:02:53form. But sensory can also be used to
- 1:02:56do sourcing or quality control. Did Dispatch taste the same as
- 1:03:00it did last time and did all the attributes that I care about?
- 1:03:04Is it approximately the same bitterness, Approximately the
- 1:03:06same umami, Approximately the same creaminess?
- 1:03:09So it's a very different type of sensory, which is a very
- 1:03:12different type of sensory than, let's say, for blending what's
- 1:03:14going on in Achashi's mind as they try to replicate blends
- 1:03:18from year to year to year? Pure descriptive analysis is not
- 1:03:21going to work. You need a very different
- 1:03:23methodology. As a consumer, I can taste like
- 1:03:26a certain cultivar from this tea.
- 1:03:28I can taste a certain processing method from this tea.
- 1:03:31There's is this intellectual level of hedonic pressure.
- 1:03:35And deductive tasting. Yeah, the which is very
- 1:03:37interesting and which is what I enjoyed quite a bit from tasting
- 1:03:41other, you know, specialty products like wine, like Scotch,
- 1:03:45like chocolate, like coffee. This is something that people
- 1:03:47take great pleasure and take Gray.
- 1:03:50I would say time and effort to explore all of these, you know,
- 1:03:54interesting landscapes beyond just the pure like animal
- 1:03:59hedonic pressure that we can get from a a product.
- 1:04:02Yeah, absolutely. And like even what we were doing
- 1:04:05here between these two Asahi samples, trying to taste the
- 1:04:08difference between Hanzu versus Khalesha or different fertilizer
- 1:04:12regiments or pesticides, no pesticides.
- 1:04:15Like it's very interesting. And I think the reason that it's
- 1:04:18important in general is that if you are able to acquire these
- 1:04:22references, you can learn and then you can start understanding
- 1:04:25your own preferences at a deeper level.
- 1:04:27The problem with just enjoying things in the primal, hedonic
- 1:04:31way where you taste it and you like it is you're not doing any
- 1:04:34learning. How can you replicate that
- 1:04:37experience of what you like or explore your own preferences?
- 1:04:41It's kind of like wandering around in the dark, but by
- 1:04:45tasting fertilizer, by tasting growing region, by tasting
- 1:04:49milling method, by tasting how old the trees are, You can start
- 1:04:53developing a much more complex like waypoints to build your own
- 1:04:58mental map of what you like and how to find it versus just being
- 1:05:02told it's ceremonial grain, just being told it's Fuji matcha.
- 1:05:06We're just being told it's top grade Hatsumukashi, very rare,
- 1:05:10very expensive. Some June.
- 1:05:13Yeah. I mean, basically you're
- 1:05:14learning like the possibility of what AT can be like all these
- 1:05:18parameters that ultimately will have an impact on the taste of
- 1:05:22the matcha. I think that's what's the most
- 1:05:25interesting and valuable part of all these deductive tasting is
- 1:05:29that you're learning like, where are the white space?
- 1:05:32What are the possible combinations that I can layer on
- 1:05:36to create something that I probably haven't, you know,
- 1:05:39never tasted before or maybe you'll never been created
- 1:05:42before. Like this is something that can
- 1:05:45really unleash a lot of imaginations for people to do
- 1:05:49innovations upon. So for anyone out there who's a
- 1:05:51little frustrated by the end of this episode by the fact that we
- 1:05:55didn't give an exact solution for how you should do much a
- 1:05:58sensory, we feel you. And to be honest, we're still
- 1:06:02actively figuring it out. Because if there is no one size
- 1:06:05fit tool, it really depends on what it is you're trying to do,
- 1:06:09whether or not you're trying to call out the flavors that
- 1:06:12consumers are going to like most on a packaging.
- 1:06:14Trying to understand what flavors a consumer may or may
- 1:06:17not take. At least trying to have your own
- 1:06:19mental model for with these different cultivars, region
- 1:06:22processing styles, shading durations, harvest methods, what
- 1:06:27they taste like, like it's a really depend or trying to make
- 1:06:30your own blend and you need different tools for different
- 1:06:33objectives. And there actually is no one
- 1:06:36good way of doing anything. Like you need to find a system
- 1:06:40that works for you. And it's very possible that the
- 1:06:42chashi system might not be that adaptable for you because you
- 1:06:47don't have all those, those references, because Sam and I
- 1:06:49could sit here and describe these as all different types of
- 1:06:52Chinese tea. Like we can say, oh, this one
- 1:06:54has a very baojong note. It has a, a sweetness very
- 1:06:58similar to a, a Jing Mai sample. Poor song poor that I tasted 3
- 1:07:03years ago and you would have no idea what we're talking about.
- 1:07:06Yeah. If you don't know those other
- 1:07:07teas. Again, it's tautology, right?
- 1:07:10Like you're using one complex flavor profile to describe
- 1:07:13another, which is really like that doesn't translate to other
- 1:07:17people. But if it works for me and
- 1:07:20identifying every time I taste this Baojong note in a
- 1:07:24particular sample that has these characteristics, it helps me
- 1:07:27build my own framework for understanding what it is and I'm
- 1:07:31tasting or not tasting. It doesn't benefit me because I
- 1:07:34have no idea what you're talking about, right?
- 1:07:36So it's pretty complicated and I think, you know, the Chashi's
- 1:07:39have done a pretty good job basically forming their own
- 1:07:41culture, their own subculture in a way they can understand each
- 1:07:45other similar to the wine people and the vocabulary, the shared
- 1:07:49references, the shared everything.
- 1:07:51And you build up the shared language and understanding
- 1:07:54connecting process to some flavor sensory outcome where
- 1:07:59there's some type of, let's say, cultural calibration going on.
- 1:08:02So this movement is way too new for us to have any definitive
- 1:08:06ideas. If anyone has a particularly
- 1:08:08good method for deductive tasting matcha to accurately
- 1:08:12predict things like shading style or cultivar, we would love
- 1:08:15to hear from you. But I think this is going to be
- 1:08:18something we're all going to have to build together and form
- 1:08:20our own culture around. And because even at the moment,
- 1:08:23the hardest problem is actually just finding these references
- 1:08:26OK, anything labeled Ujicha is like basically telling you
- 1:08:30nothing about the product when it comes to these types of
- 1:08:34things, even though it's labeled a single origin.
- 1:08:36Yeah, absolutely. But you know, we just did a
- 1:08:40round of sourcing in Japan, and the good news is, you know,
- 1:08:44there are still a lot of untouched Torah out there for us
- 1:08:47to explore. Maybe the uncle doesn't speak a
- 1:08:49word of English, but the rest are ease.
- 1:08:51You know he would greet you with some delicious cup of gilcolo
- 1:08:55and sit you down. And then you can start using in
- 1:08:57Google Translate. So, you know, a lot of
- 1:08:59opportunity here and pretty interesting, but you know,
- 1:09:02sensory is really, really, really important and we.
- 1:09:05And us coming from a quite experienced, I would say sensory
- 1:09:12professional, professional or analysis background, we are
- 1:09:15actually not better than anyone else in this realm because this
- 1:09:19is really experienced based kind of industry or landscape.
- 1:09:25We're no more experienced than others.
- 1:09:28It's quite exciting, actually quite interesting.
- 1:09:31It's finally something new. We have some experience with
- 1:09:33descriptive analysis, like we're pretty good at like listing off
- 1:09:36a bunch of notes that we taste, but then like linking them back
- 1:09:39to things like, you know, it's an active learning process.
- 1:09:43So, but I think really the most important thing is to understand
- 1:09:46what your consumers like and then, you know, use sensory as a
- 1:09:49tool to make better things for that.
- 1:09:51That should be the ultimate metric that we're all creating
- 1:09:54feedback loops to improve upon, is to create things that people
- 1:09:57actually want to drink and like, and nothing else literally
- 1:10:00matters. Or creating anything that's
- 1:10:03interesting. You know, it doesn't have to be
- 1:10:05like, wow, like amazing, tasty, delicious, but you know, on a
- 1:10:11sheer intellectual level, like there are a lot of these new
- 1:10:14combinations that just yet to be discovered because like from,
- 1:10:18you know, a sheer, I would say like quality or like, I don't
- 1:10:22know, like hedonic pleasure. Like there are some very clear
- 1:10:26peaks out there, like for you to climb, right?
- 1:10:29Like a Narino Rd. in Okanoyama tea garden, like that's priced
- 1:10:34and famous and it's like so well known like and it's right there.
- 1:10:39Like if you have enough access, enough guanxi, enough money,
- 1:10:42like you can taste it. It already exists.
- 1:10:45You can just walk up to their shop in RE Shishiman shops in
- 1:10:49Uchi for for like actually not very much money, yeah.
- 1:10:54Yeah, yeah, yeah. I mean, it's already there.
- 1:10:56But what's interesting, at least to me, is those unknown peaks,
- 1:11:01unknown to high grounds for people to climb, for people to
- 1:11:05climb, for people to explore. And I think that's really the
- 1:11:08core value of a specialty product movement is to explore
- 1:11:13the unknown. Peaks defined by other people
- 1:11:16like that's the consensus within Japan, mostly controlled by old
- 1:11:19Japanese men. But what about all the teenagers
- 1:11:23in California? Or what about the incredibly
- 1:11:26rich and sophisticated culture of appreciating matcha and
- 1:11:29Thailand or in other countries like preferences are very
- 1:11:32different. What are their peak of the
- 1:11:35mountains? What have they not tried that
- 1:11:37they would find incredible and that can be unlocked by
- 1:11:40blending, can be unlocked by much of being grown in new in
- 1:11:43different places, people trying shaded cultivation with new and
- 1:11:47interesting cultivars, different types of processing machinery,
- 1:11:51all sorts of things that kind of get vanished away when they
- 1:11:54disappear into these blended products.
- 1:11:56Not that we have any problem with blended products, but to
- 1:11:58learn and to do sensory properly, you have to be able to
- 1:12:02go back to these references. Absolutely.
- 1:12:04To learn the taste. So anyway, our call to action is
- 1:12:07taste more matcha. Take great notes, try to develop
- 1:12:11methodologies that work. If you find a really good one,
- 1:12:13please reach out, Yeah. Share Share your experience.
- 1:12:16Share your enjoyment. We'd love to have do an episode
- 1:12:19on like different people's methodologies for how they
- 1:12:22approach doing this type of their own sensory analysis and
- 1:12:25the outcomes that they've gotten.
- 1:12:27And so if you enjoyed this, please consider sharing with
- 1:12:29friend and we'll see you on the next one.
- 1:12:31See you in the future. Thanks.
- 1:12:33See you in the next peek. Yeah.