Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Cooking for 5,000 Before Culinary School Chef Chad Welch Ep. 200
Transcript
- 0:00There's no serious professionals that get into hospitality
- 0:05intentionally, at least that I've met.
- 0:08Hello chefs. This is Chefs PSA, and I'm your
- 0:10host, Andre Natera. Today my guest is Chef Chad
- 0:13Welch, executive chef with Horse Soldier Bourbon, who's worked
- 0:17alongside the Jacques Pepin Foundation.
- 0:19We're going to get into his storied.
- 0:21Career. From scaling Navy recipes for
- 0:245000 troops to cutting Cornish game hens with a bandsaw on his
- 0:29first day ever cooking. We're going to talk about.
- 0:31The world of pre Google chef learning and landing with a
- 0:35bourbon brand that puts World Trade Center steel in every
- 0:38bottle. Stay tuned.
- 0:52I know you got started cooking on cruise ships or not cruise
- 0:55ships in the Navy. In the Navy, I've never talked
- 1:00to anyone that has like expressed what it's really like
- 1:04to be in the military cooking specifically in the ocean.
- 1:09I had a friend that he was cooking on a boat recently and
- 1:14he's saying it was like, and there was like a storm.
- 1:16He said the fucking pots are sliding down.
- 1:18It's like it's fucking wild. It's nuts.
- 1:21Like for for us, an aircraft carrier doesn't move very much.
- 1:27Like you rarely see it moving, but like, you know, it's very
- 1:30similar to take a flight like just a commercial flight, like
- 1:34when I flew here or whatever, everything has to be properly
- 1:36stowed and tied down and ready to encounter rough weather,
- 1:43right? But on an aircraft carrier you
- 1:44never do that because it never moves.
- 1:47So the only time that anything like that's ever happened to us,
- 1:52we were coming back in from a Mediterranean cruise into
- 1:54Virginia and there is this huge storm at the in the Atlantic and
- 1:59it rocked our ship. And I'm from California and it
- 2:02felt like an earthquake, but all the like the Baker's racks and
- 2:05roasting pans and everything just came crashing down.
- 2:08Like because we'd never had anything stoked because it never
- 2:13moved. And then the one time that it
- 2:15happened almost required stitches from roasting pans just
- 2:20falling off top of speed racks was pretty crazy.
- 2:25Yeah, unlike, you know, other than a pizza place like in my
- 2:32hometown. My first day in the professional
- 2:35kitchen was on aircraft carrier on the USS America.
- 2:38Day 0. Day zero.
- 2:40Yeah. So other than, you know, we
- 2:42went, I went to Navy culinary school in San Diego, which was
- 2:46basically basic knife skills and safety sanitation.
- 2:49And then this was a 1992. So tons of longhand recipe
- 2:56conversion. So all the, all the, all the
- 2:58armed forces recipe cards, they're universal throughout the
- 3:03entire military and they're all based on 100.
- 3:05And so you either have to scale up or scale down depending on
- 3:08how many people you're cooking for.
- 3:10And the aircraft carrier has 5000, so we would always have to
- 3:13scale up. So doing the math on scaling, I
- 3:17don't even remember how to do it, but scaling like one
- 3:19tablespoon for 100 people up to 5000 portions was crazy.
- 3:25And like going up and down it was, it was nuts.
- 3:29But on my first day on the ship, show up completely green like
- 3:35you would in any other kitchen and but all of your military
- 3:38bearings and my my uniform was all white and perfect and shoes
- 3:42polished and everything. I was clearly the new guy.
- 3:44And we were going to see my first day on my ship was our
- 3:47first day at sea. And you meet up in the morning
- 3:53and they assign everybody a station based on what the menu
- 3:58is for that day, right? It's like, all right, I don't
- 4:01know, we're doing meatloaf, mashed potatoes and fried fish.
- 4:04So Andre, you're on ovens, Chad, you're on fryer, you're on
- 4:08whatever. And then you just go sort the
- 4:10recipe out to go over there. But since I was the new guy,
- 4:13they put me in veg prep. They were like just, you just go
- 4:16into that veg prep room and that was actually very nice duty
- 4:21because it's air conditioned and all you're doing is like peeling
- 4:23stuff and chopping stuff and whatever.
- 4:26But that day we had Cornish game hen on the menu and I think they
- 4:32were just trying to make everybody feel good for it being
- 4:35their first day at sea, right? And in order to do the Cornish
- 4:39game hen for 5000 people, my job that day, on my first day at
- 4:43sea, my first day in a professional kitchen, was to cut
- 4:48the Cornish game hens in half on a band saw.
- 4:50And I'd never worked with a band saw.
- 4:52And I'd, I had no idea what I was doing.
- 4:55Yeah, it was, it was wild. And you're at sea.
- 4:57Good news is I couldn't feel the, the ship moving at all.
- 5:00But, you know, and I was really scared.
- 5:02I still don't mess with band saw.
- 5:03So I didn't cut myself, thank God.
- 5:05But it, it's treacherous, you know, like doing these frozen
- 5:12ice cubes, basically. And we cut them while they were
- 5:14still shrink wrapped with the guts inside.
- 5:17And you treated them kind of like lemons, right?
- 5:19Like you cut them in half, shake the insides out and squeeze the
- 5:23plastic off and throw them on the Lexan on either side and,
- 5:26and just keep it moving. So I asked because we, you know,
- 5:31you start work at like 4 O clock in the morning because you got
- 5:33to start for breakfast. And I asked, I was like, hey, I
- 5:36thought we were going to see today and I don't know, we're at
- 5:40sea. And I was like, no way.
- 5:42So they took me up to the hangar Bay and I could see the waves
- 5:48coming up over the side of the ship.
- 5:50And then now all of a sudden now I can feel the ship moving and I
- 5:53had to go back downstairs and finish doing those Cornish game
- 5:57hens while it's defrosting. And then the little stuff is
- 6:01accumulating at the top of the bandsaw and slowly dripping down
- 6:05as I can just slowly feel the boat rock.
- 6:07That was as close as I ever came to getting sick in my whole time
- 6:10in the military and but I never did.
- 6:12How long we were on the ship. I was on the ship for two years.
- 6:15Yeah, cooking the entire time. Cooking the entire time.
- 6:18And you know, like the The funny thing I think you and I were
- 6:23talking about it before is about how like kind of everybody's
- 6:25origin story is pretty much the same.
- 6:28And I hate reading people's resumes or their BIOS talking
- 6:32about how they grew up, their mother's apron strings and
- 6:36whatever in the kitchen because like you know, you said that's
- 6:40we all did everybody did that. Mine is a little bit different
- 6:43because like I never wanted to be a cook.
- 6:45Like I had tried to join the Navy as an electrician and I was
- 6:49working at at like a quick serve place being a busser.
- 6:53And it ended up turning into an accidental career in the Navy.
- 7:00And then I got a job at a restaurant the first day I got
- 7:03out. And so it seems like if you
- 7:06follow my trajectory and kind of initially unconventional cooking
- 7:13jobs and hospitality jobs, they were all kind of against my
- 7:17will. So you you had no desire to be a
- 7:22chef, You're just going into the Navy because they're just kind
- 7:24of throwing you in. My mom started charging me rent
- 7:27and it was time to go. Kitchens are brutal right now,
- 7:29everyone knows it. Fewer people on the line,
- 7:32margins tighter than ever, and somehow the expectations keep
- 7:35going up. There's just no room to miss
- 7:37anymore. I was talking to a chef recently
- 7:39who said the biggest stress wasn't the volume, it was the
- 7:42mental load. Babysitting, food, timing,
- 7:45everything perfectly, trying to be everywhere at once.
- 7:48And that's where equipment matters more than people want to
- 7:51admit. Rationals technology comes up a
- 7:53lot in those conversations. The Icon V Pro, the Ivario Pro
- 7:57overnight roast that don't need to be checked, custom programs
- 8:00for all your recipes, consistency without hovering
- 8:03completely automated cleaning, monitoring everything from your
- 8:06phone, The list goes on. And what really buys you the
- 8:09headspace? Less standing over pans and more
- 8:12time to leave the kitchen instead of constantly putting
- 8:14out tiny fires. When you're down to cook, when
- 8:17the prep list is rough, when the production ramps up.
- 8:20Think rational. So when you got out, what is
- 8:24what is your first cooking job right out of the Navy?
- 8:27So I got out of the military on August 23rd, 1994 and they were
- 8:33opening a new But you get out, it's called terminal leave.
- 8:36You get out two weeks early just because I had basically PTO
- 8:41saved up, right. So I get out two weeks early.
- 8:44Took two weeks to kind of figure out where I was going to sleep.
- 8:47And then the on August 23rd, 1994, I got a job at a
- 8:52restaurant in Northern California where I'm from and
- 8:55it's called the Hop Yard and I started working there that day
- 8:59and it was all just kind of quick serve pub type food that
- 9:06ended up being really good like it what?
- 9:08Was pop type food in 94? It was, it was chicken wings,
- 9:15grilled chicken sandwiches of all kinds of different
- 9:18varieties, burgers of all kinds of different varieties.
- 9:21But like everything, you know, Caesar salads.
- 9:27We punched our own French fries, blanched them, did all that
- 9:30stuff. And then, you know, in
- 9:32retrospect, looking back at it, everything was like super
- 9:35proper. Like it was, I didn't know what
- 9:39I was doing, but it was like now that I do looking back on it,
- 9:44like we didn't need to be doing everything that good.
- 9:48And but like during that time was also the time that because
- 9:51we were buying some stuff from Cisco.
- 9:53And the first time that I remember like I was like the
- 9:59kitchen manager, first time I remember my Cisco Rep bringing
- 10:02me kind of convenience appetizers like jalapeno poppers
- 10:06or like pre done mozzarella sticks, you know?
- 10:12Like fucking best. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 10:14I was just like, this is crazy, like people will do this for
- 10:18you, like and then so then you know that I little do I know
- 10:22that was kind of the end of mom and pop.
- 10:26Restaurants. The fucking sampler platter.
- 10:28Right. Yeah, yeah, yeah, totally.
- 10:29The mozzarella sticks and something else, right?
- 10:31Yeah, but everything we did, we were doing it all from scratch
- 10:34and potato skins and like just for example, like we made, we,
- 10:40we had baked potatoes on our menu.
- 10:42And so when the baked potatoes and they were stuffed with all
- 10:45kinds of different stuff and when the baked potatoes were
- 10:50turn like after two days or whatever, three days that you
- 10:53couldn't serve them as a baked potato, we would take the
- 10:56insides out, make potato skins out of the the leftovers and
- 11:00then we made potato chowder out of the insides.
- 11:04So like, I can't take credit for putting that menu together
- 11:08initially, but the guy that did had all of like real restaurant
- 11:13flow sort of stuff, even though we were just like an open bar
- 11:16grill place, you know, like we made all of our dressings from
- 11:20scratch, like mayonnaises, everything.
- 11:23And it was like, good. It's, it's so funny because
- 11:26back, back then, you know some, some of those things when you're
- 11:31seeing them for the first time, like you said, the mozzarella
- 11:34sticks. You, you don't know, you go to a
- 11:35restaurant, you're a young kid. Like how do they make
- 11:37mozzarella? Sticks.
- 11:39You're fascinated and then you find out like, Oh my God,
- 11:42there's a convenience product where it's like brilliant.
- 11:45I would love to do a restaurant today that serves that kind of
- 11:51food. Yeah.
- 11:51You know, like, really nice. Like a nicer from scratch
- 11:54version. Not, not frozen mozzarella
- 11:56sticks, but like, homemade mozzarella sticks, you know,
- 12:00pigs in a blanket. Yeah.
- 12:02Devils on horseback. All real comfort food stuff like
- 12:05I have I, I write concept menus all the time, just like for fun
- 12:10for myself. And one of the ones that I wrote
- 12:13a long time ago, it still sticks with me.
- 12:15It is that it's just all elevated comfort food that is
- 12:18just like, it's not super pretentious, but it's like a
- 12:23little bit nicer of a spin on a meatloaf and like of on like a
- 12:27sloppy Joe even. And then you know, the crazy
- 12:31things I was, I'm really into like we had a class in culinary
- 12:37school. I went to culinary school in San
- 12:39Francisco and we had a class called Foods of the Americas and
- 12:42it was all about indigenous ingredients in the in the
- 12:46continent of America. And then following like food
- 12:49trends around the country and like, you know, the impact that
- 12:53filmed the railroads did like with you'll find like amazing
- 12:57Chinese food in like North Dakota because of the railroads
- 13:00and then like Mexican cuisine and then just how stuff flows.
- 13:05And then I had a conversation with with Michelle Neshawn and
- 13:11he was explaining to me about he opened, I can't remember which
- 13:17one it was. Oh, the dressing room.
- 13:19When he was open in the dressing room, he had the idea of doing
- 13:23everything comfort food from the standpoint if American comfort
- 13:30food was continued to be passed down through the hands of
- 13:36craftspeople. You know what I mean?
- 13:38People that actually took it seriously and like, I never
- 13:40thought about at some point and like the 60s or 70s or 50s even
- 13:46a lot of like the craft of cooking and home making was
- 13:50stunted by like big brains and convenience items.
- 13:57Like we were talking about like the can can tomato sauce and
- 14:00like, and, and it's really interesting.
- 14:02He showed me a database and I think it was, I think it was
- 14:05University of Michigan. There's like an online database
- 14:08that has kind of compiled all these original recipes that were
- 14:14written by people that knew what they were doing.
- 14:18And we're handing it down to other people that knew what they
- 14:21were doing before, you know, not to disparage Chef Boyardee, but
- 14:26before they came into play, you know what I mean?
- 14:28So my friend Bobby, he has his pages retro kitchen recipes, I,
- 14:33I think on on Instagram. Sorry if I'm wrong Bobby, he'll
- 14:36let me know if I'm wrong. I'm pretty sure it's retro
- 14:37kitchen recipes he just put up. He's got a book and a lot of the
- 14:42stuff that he does is like, I mean, first of all, he's good at
- 14:47delivering the retro vibe on social media, like the music and
- 14:51the look. And he's he's fucking really
- 14:53good at it. But and, and his book is really
- 14:57good as well. Like I've, I've, I've already
- 14:59had the opportunity to look at it and but he's doing stuff
- 15:04that's like, you know, a lot of gelatin dishes, a lot of a lot
- 15:09of, you know, like carpetbagger, you know, this, that, and it's
- 15:13like you forget about some of these things.
- 15:15And so when I'm looking at some of this, I was like, I remember
- 15:17making that. I remember some of these dishes
- 15:19were on menus. Some of that was family meal,
- 15:21like was the chicken tetrazzini. And yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 15:25A lot of these old dishes that's like.
- 15:27Turkey tetrazini all. Those right the Turkey
- 15:29tetrazini, yeah yeah, a lot of these dishes.
- 15:31Well, he does a great job at that.
- 15:33So for, you know, shout out to Bobby.
- 15:34He's he's he's, I don't think anyone's doing what he's doing
- 15:38wrong. On, on, on bringing that sort of
- 15:40awareness out there. So people should follow him.
- 15:42But it's curious to see where that food would have wound up
- 15:46today. Yeah, If it wasn't, if there
- 15:48wasn't some sort of fork in the road that, you know, here comes.
- 15:52Here comes Monsanto. Yeah.
- 15:53Yeah. Yeah, yeah.
- 15:55I was thinking about it just, you know, there's there's a
- 15:59another funny story we were talking about gave Aralis
- 16:03earlier and and you know, we've only met one time.
- 16:07I don't know him very well when we text occasionally on on
- 16:09social media, But like my family is is all Mexican from my dad's
- 16:16Greek and Irish. My mom's full Mexican.
- 16:18My dad didn't have any brothers and sisters and my mom has a
- 16:22million. So you grew up Mexican?
- 16:23I grew up Mexican and eating only Mexican comfort food.
- 16:27And you know, my grandma was a Greek cook on my dad's side and
- 16:31my grandpa on my dad's side. He was remarried to an Italian
- 16:37before I was born. So I'm kind of taking a tangent,
- 16:41but he was a Baker. He opened the first bakery in a
- 16:44grocery store in Northern California.
- 16:46And then him and my grandma owned a bakery in Northern
- 16:48California. So it was like kind of an
- 16:50Italian. She was Daisy Loopy.
- 16:52Then the bakery was called Loopy's Bakery in Northern
- 16:54California. But so I've always been kind of
- 16:59surrounded by food in spite of me never wanted to cook.
- 17:01I don't know that I really had a choice in retrospect.
- 17:04But back to the the Gabe thing. So I've always had a issue for
- 17:09whatever reason. I don't, I don't know, I've been
- 17:11kind of exploring it, but like this mind block of cooking
- 17:15Mexican. So like whenever I have to do
- 17:17anything fancy or an audition or whatever, for whatever reason, I
- 17:23like trend Asian like towards Asian flavors.
- 17:26I have no experience with Asian cuisine.
- 17:28Like I've never worked in in there's except for like a really
- 17:33good teacher in culinary school. But like, for whatever reason,
- 17:36the flavors when I just think about doing something fancy, it
- 17:40would be like soy based or something, you know, and really
- 17:44strange. And I, I, I kind of boiled it
- 17:48down to like one, It's so comforting.
- 17:52It feels like it's not special. It's like only special to me,
- 17:55you know what I mean? It's like it, it seems too easy
- 17:58or like to kind of passe. And again, that's just me kind
- 18:02of analyzing my, my stance psychologically, right?
- 18:07But so I've never really, there's a few recipes that I do
- 18:11and I'll incorporate on occasion.
- 18:13But like I grew up my grandma, they're from Mission, TX and my
- 18:19grandma always made flour tortillas for us.
- 18:22Like I mean all day, every day. You go to my grandma's house and
- 18:25there was a pot of beans and a pot of rice and flour tortillas
- 18:28and the Kamala was always on. And then with a.
- 18:30Little bit of butter. Yeah, butter.
- 18:32Or then we'd get super crazy and fry it and put sugar and
- 18:36cinnamon on them, the little Bowellos, you know?
- 18:39But like always with butter or jam or or whatever, and always
- 18:42with or food, like she used to tell me that, you know, real
- 18:46Mexicans don't use silverware. You know, that you just got to
- 18:49tear the tortilla apart and eat with the tortillas.
- 18:52And I used to make them with her all the time.
- 18:55The tortillas. Yeah, yeah, all the time.
- 18:57And like I have this, you know, she always made it in the same
- 19:00bowl, in this blue bowl that like that's kind of how she
- 19:03measured everything. And I have this vivid memory of
- 19:07like my hands being in the bowl with her and getting the feel
- 19:09for the masa and everything. And like her telling me that
- 19:12water had to be as hot as your hands could stand.
- 19:16So you got to make it as hot as you can, but not to burn your
- 19:19hands and your hands stay in the ball.
- 19:21So I have all these memories, but I've never made flour
- 19:23tortillas, right? And so during COVID, I had, I
- 19:27had a test kitchen with the company I was working for in
- 19:30Louisville. And I was, I worked everyday
- 19:34through COVID, but largely often I was by myself in my full test
- 19:40kitchen and not doing what it was meant for.
- 19:43So it was just, but it was very therapeutic for me during COVID
- 19:46just to go in and cook. And I was just cooking for
- 19:48people. That was like running the
- 19:50business and it, it felt very military.
- 19:53But like one Saturday I went into the office and I was in the
- 19:56kitchen by myself and I was going to make flour tortillas.
- 19:59So I texted Gate. I was like, what is your flour
- 20:03tortilla recipe? And it, and I always feel so
- 20:05stupid because it's like three ingredients, you know what I
- 20:08mean? But I need somebody's recipe for
- 20:10that. Or something.
- 20:11And so he sent it to me and I was in my kitchen by myself.
- 20:17My kitchen had windows in it and I was like, sun was rising.
- 20:20It was like just the perfect time of day.
- 20:22And it was super clean. Everything was set up for me and
- 20:24I was by myself. I turned on mariachi music,
- 20:28Linda Ronstadt, the Constance de MI Patre that my mom and my
- 20:32family used to listen to, and I like actually FaceTime my mom
- 20:35and I'm and I got Gabe's recipe and I'm channelling my grandma
- 20:39and remembering all this stuff. And those shits didn't turn out
- 20:43at all. Not.
- 20:46Give games you the wrong fucking.
- 20:48Yeah, yeah, yeah. He was trying to sabotage me.
- 20:50No, it was definitely user error.
- 20:52It was definitely user error, but it was like, I just
- 20:55couldn't. I couldn't make it work, you
- 20:57know, and like, but like back to the convenience product aspect
- 21:02of stuff. I remember my grandma, this is
- 21:07like how kind of micro it can get.
- 21:09Like as I was thinking about the conversation with Michelle, my
- 21:14grandma used to toast cumin seeds and smash them in the
- 21:18mocahete. I don't know if she didn't have
- 21:20access to ground cumin, you know, or like, I don't know
- 21:25because, you know, it was always called comino or whatever.
- 21:28But eventually her recipe morphed into ground cumin, not
- 21:34toasted. And like, the little salsa
- 21:37changes would just be with things that started showing up
- 21:40more in Northern California, you know?
- 21:42So, you know, there's all kinds of crazy stuff, whether it's
- 21:45macaroni and cheese or toasted cumin seeds, I guess.
- 21:47It's, it's funny, you know, I grew up a latchkey kid.
- 21:51I was texting with someone about this last night.
- 21:52We were talking about, you know, food from our childhood and how
- 21:56it shaped us as chefs. I grew up as a latchkey kid.
- 22:00My parents divorced when I was pretty young.
- 22:02So I was either living with my mom or with my dad, one or the
- 22:06other. And the good thing about living
- 22:08with my dad is, you know, he would go out and party,
- 22:10whatever. So he wasn't coming home till
- 22:112:00 in the morning. So I'd have the house to myself.
- 22:14And when I first learned to cook, you know, I'd invite
- 22:19cousins, friends over. So, you know, we're all going to
- 22:21stay the night. We're middle school, high
- 22:23school, you know, come over, stay the night.
- 22:25We're going to we're going to watch Goodfellas or Godfather or
- 22:29something like that where I'm going to cook some a a big
- 22:31Italian feast. We're going to play cards and
- 22:34we're going to like prank call fucking whoever out of the phone
- 22:36book or. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 22:38Yeah, but my, the, the food that I first learned how to cook when
- 22:42I because no one taught me how to cook, you know, I don't have
- 22:44that beautiful like, oh, grandmother's her mom's food.
- 22:48And I didn't really grow up that way.
- 22:49I mean, I, I ate what they fed me, but I wasn't in the kitchen
- 22:52with them totally. But when I learned how to cook,
- 22:55it was because I was like that scene in Goodfellas where
- 22:58Polly's slice in the the garlic or the razor blade, I'm like, I
- 23:01want to make that. I want to make the fucking
- 23:03sausage. And the so I learned how to cook
- 23:05that, you know, buying magazines or whatever and getting Italian
- 23:08recipes. So I'd make that.
- 23:11And that is like my food identity when I was growing up
- 23:15was that Italian food that I was like, Hey, we're just just like,
- 23:18we're going to fucking watch Goodfellas and, and.
- 23:20Make Italian. And fucking make Italian.
- 23:22Yeah. What else were we going to do?
- 23:23We're kids. Yeah, yeah, yeah, That's the
- 23:25best. I mean, we had, I don't know.
- 23:29You know, The funny thing has my it was very much the same way.
- 23:36Like I was always surrounded by food, like, like all kinds of
- 23:40different flavors and and approaches.
- 23:44And I grew up same thing. I I like my parents were
- 23:48divorced when I was in 6th grade and then and I went to 9 schools
- 23:53and lived all over the Bay Area and did did everything a.
- 23:56Lot of stupid. Shit, a lot of stupid shit and
- 24:01but it was, you know, we had to cook for ourselves.
- 24:04My sister really kind of got stuck cooking for me, but it was
- 24:07more like I, I remember I had like, it's crazy how like you
- 24:12have like alcohol stories. If you get too drunk and you
- 24:15threw up on tequila, you never drink tequila for like years or
- 24:18whatever, right? My sister, we used to eat minute
- 24:21rice with butter and salt on it. I don't know if that's a thing,
- 24:27but that's what we ate when we were kids.
- 24:28Like when she would have to cook for me.
- 24:30And I loved it. I really liked it.
- 24:32But then one time I put too much salt on or like the top came off
- 24:38or something and it was like disgusting.
- 24:40And she was like, well, that's all you got to eat, so you
- 24:43better fucking eat it. So I ate it.
- 24:45And then I now I can't stand the smell of parboiled rice.
- 24:49Like, still to. Yeah.
- 24:51You know, it's fine. I'm like that with soy sauce.
- 24:53Yeah. I like soy sauce.
- 24:54Yeah. But when I was a kid, I went to
- 24:56a friend's house. I didn't know anything about soy
- 24:58sauce. Yeah.
- 24:59Yeah. I was used to eating fucking
- 25:00Mexican food all day. Yeah.
- 25:01Yeah. And so I go.
- 25:02I go to a friend's house and I'm, like, probably 5 or 6 years
- 25:05old, like, kindergarten, first grade.
- 25:06Yeah. And his family made Chinese
- 25:09food, and they had white rice, and they gave me some soy sauce.
- 25:13And I just doused the food in soy sauce.
- 25:17Like, I don't know what it is. I can't eat.
- 25:19It's ketchup. It's like soup at this point.
- 25:21Yeah, Yeah. And I remember the dad who was
- 25:25like, very stern, looking at me and saying, you're gonna eat all
- 25:28that. And I'm like, I'm a little kid.
- 25:31And I'm like, OK, yeah, I don't know what soy sauce is, but they
- 25:33see me wasting it. Yeah, it's their soy sauce.
- 25:36They know I'm fucking up. Yeah, yeah.
- 25:38And they made me. That's probably nice soy sauce.
- 25:40Yeah, I mean, who knows what it would keep command or whatever,
- 25:42but I remember they made me finish all that rice and I'm
- 25:47like gagging and and it's like hit the the my friend's dad.
- 25:50It's like a military man. Yeah, guy, I'm like 7 years old
- 25:54or six years old. He's like, you better eat all
- 25:55that rice too. I'm like gagging it down.
- 25:58That's the worst. I, I hate that shit.
- 26:01I had, I think, you know, kind of back to the alternative
- 26:10careers and kind of how I backed into the military and cooking
- 26:13just in general. It was like kind of the same.
- 26:17I've been in senior housing for it was just a little over 20
- 26:22years that I was in senior housing and it was very much the
- 26:26same. I had no intention of working in
- 26:29senior housing. It was like it was an accident.
- 26:31I I was working at a winery in Northern California and I
- 26:36changed whatever they did. The winery didn't.
- 26:41The management company for the catering operation fired me when
- 26:46I was on vacation, which was super fun, but it the I've
- 26:52maintained friendships with everybody though, and, and the
- 26:55winery is Mitchell Katz Winery. My friend Mitch passed away a
- 26:59couple years ago unexpectedly and his son is running
- 27:02everything and it's in, it's in Livermore.
- 27:05I just had to give them a quick shout out, but the, I was
- 27:10working at that winery and I didn't have a job.
- 27:13So I just started applying everywhere on Craigslist back in
- 27:17the day. And you know, going on all these
- 27:20interviews and printing out my MapQuest things cause like, you
- 27:24know, there was like there was no navigation.
- 27:26You know, this was like, I don't even know what year it was,
- 27:31early 2000s. And I got an interview for this
- 27:36place called Atria and I didn't know what it was.
- 27:40And so I went and interviewed with them and I, I saw that it
- 27:45was a senior living place when I pulled up and before I
- 27:48interviewed, actually I almost didn't go in to the, the
- 27:53interview at all, but it was like it was like 20-30 minutes
- 27:56from my house. So I was like, well, shit, I'm
- 27:59already out here. I better just go do it and see
- 28:01what's up. And I went in and I was like,
- 28:05there's no, no way I'm going to work here.
- 28:07And then I've met the people that interviewed me at the time,
- 28:11my former boss, and they were amazing.
- 28:16And then I, when I saw the senior housing, I was like, it
- 28:21was way different than I, what I anticipated.
- 28:24I thought it was going to be a what I now know is a nursing
- 28:28home, like a skilled nursing facility or a much more clinical
- 28:31environment that's more like a hospital and like people wear
- 28:34scrubs and tile floors. And that's, that's what I was
- 28:38expecting. This wasn't, this was like and
- 28:42you know, and again, this is 20 years ago, so there's been a lot
- 28:44of advancement since. But when I started, it was still
- 28:48really nice, carpeted floors, real dining rooms, like
- 28:52restaurant sorts of things, the linens people got dressed nice
- 28:56to come to the restaurant. And I was like, there's a lot
- 29:01that we can do with this place. And and I told myself, my friend
- 29:05that hired me still jokes with me about it, that I was like,
- 29:08look, I'm either going to be here for a short enough period
- 29:11of time that I never have to talk about it again, or I'm
- 29:13going to be here forever. And turns out I was there
- 29:16forever. It was like 20 years.
- 29:18You have a very interesting career that I don't know if I've
- 29:23ever had anyone on the podcast before that's probably worked in
- 29:27as many diverse areas of the industry as you because I feel
- 29:32like you've been in hotels, like you said you were in the Navy.
- 29:37You know you're in a restaurant now.
- 29:39Brewery. Partner in a bakery like you
- 29:41got. And a freestanding restaurant
- 29:44Freestanding like you've. Covered pretty much every aspect
- 29:48of the industry at that is that a chef can go into.
- 29:53And one of the things that I think about often is that
- 29:57obviously I have a podcast, so I talk about, I talk to chefs and
- 30:00I talk to industry. You know that that's my
- 30:03audience. But unfortunately we usually
- 30:06talk about a certain section of the industry, right?
- 30:09Which is like maybe 5 or 6 restaurants.
- 30:11Yeah, but that is 5 or 6 restaurants that are covering
- 30:14500 employees and there's millions of people in the
- 30:17business. Yeah.
- 30:19And, and the industry is so varied and vast.
- 30:23And just because something's going on in one type of
- 30:26restaurant doesn't mean that that the entire industry is
- 30:29affected by that and vice versa. I think it's super interesting.
- 30:35And I think for a lot of people, when you're starting your
- 30:37culinary career, like get, get some experience, figure out what
- 30:42you want to do first of all, but get some experience.
- 30:44Like it's we, we go into a certain, a certain in certain
- 30:49kitchens and we think, well, this is the best.
- 30:51Like, well, you can't say that if you've never worked anywhere
- 30:53else if you only know this, Yeah.
- 30:55And, and, and your exposure to different chefs, you know, like
- 30:59the other thing when I got out of so I, I was military 1st and
- 31:04then free standing restaurant for five years.
- 31:07We opened a second location and I got to design my first kitchen
- 31:11there, which was really just mild adjustments to the line in
- 31:15a different placement to the walk in.
- 31:17Yeah, yeah, yeah. But.
- 31:19But still, you know, like, it was a mom and pop opening, like
- 31:23literally laid the foundation for the kitchen floor myself,
- 31:28like with a shovel, you know what I mean?
- 31:30Like helping out and then going to the going to The Four Seasons
- 31:37after culinary school and my my trajectory after I went to
- 31:43culinary school. Forget The Four Seasons, but
- 31:45after culinary school. Where'd you go to culinary
- 31:48school? The California Culinary Academy
- 31:50CCA. Yeah, CCA before the Cordon Bleu
- 31:52bought it. When?
- 31:53When? When were you there?
- 31:54I got out in 9899. OK, so I, I, I went to school in
- 32:01Portland, OR. I graduated in 9596.
- 32:04I don't remember. What school?
- 32:05It was the Western culinary. I I know.
- 32:07I know where it is, yeah. In Portland and.
- 32:09With the glass front. Yeah, yeah.
- 32:11I don't know what it looks like. I don't even know if it still
- 32:12exists, to be honest with you, but I remember our the Dean of
- 32:15the school had come from CCA. His name was Larry Lewis.
- 32:18Hit a ponytail. Yeah, Yeah.
- 32:19I don't know. I don't.
- 32:20Know if you I think it might have been before your time, but
- 32:22he was like the coolest dude. Yeah, and the the the CCA was
- 32:26great when I went but one again, I mean, it's weird when I talk
- 32:33about this stuff, but like I didn't want to go to culinary
- 32:35school like so. Why'd you go?
- 32:36Because everybody kind of convinced me, you know, if
- 32:39you're going to you're my dad had a big part in that.
- 32:43But everybody I just met my wife, my current, my only wife.
- 32:47We've been together since 96. So we just kind of got together
- 32:50and I was trying to figure out where we were like what I was
- 32:54going to do for a career. And you know, like a lot of
- 32:57people, I spent five years in one restaurant talking about I'm
- 33:01going to get a real job at some point and watching everybody
- 33:04around me go get a real job and finish their school.
- 33:07And like, that's a lot of the stuff that I teach and preach
- 33:11currently is like hospitality and cooking is really
- 33:16placeholders for people. There's no serious professionals
- 33:21that get into hospitality intentionally, at least that
- 33:25I've met, like have gotten in to either cooking or front of house
- 33:29management or service and been like, you know what, I'm going
- 33:31to do this for the rest of my life.
- 33:33Day one. This is what I'm doing.
- 33:34You know what I mean? There's a few and I went to
- 33:37school and started with people that had that attitude and
- 33:40didn't last like more than a year or so.
- 33:43But like when I went to culinary school, everybody was kind of
- 33:46trying to convince me to go. And then I had my GI Bill from
- 33:50the military. So I used it, went to culinary
- 33:52school and it was fantastic. And also before I went to
- 33:56culinary school, I had done 2 externships at my job.
- 34:00So like people would graduated from the CCA and come and done
- 34:04their externship with me and they couldn't cook for shit.
- 34:07And and I was like what, what am I going to go pay these people
- 34:10to show me how to work like this kid?
- 34:12You know, like slicing a mushroom one piece at a time,
- 34:16put it in a bowl like it was, it was crazy.
- 34:19But when I went, I was like, all right, I'm going to go and I'm
- 34:23going to treat this super seriously.
- 34:25And I'm the worst academic. I hate school and you know, like
- 34:28I can't but too much ADB. But you know, my wife is very
- 34:33academic. She helped me do my school work
- 34:36and did my reports and stuff and and that.
- 34:40But I could cook, you know? So like, I knew that I was good
- 34:43at cooking, and I was just going to hang out with the teachers
- 34:46and not try to make friends with anybody.
- 34:50I would say I was trying to make money.
- 34:51If I was going to go to culinary school, my next move was a check
- 34:56I didn't care about. What you were making back.
- 34:58Then I was making I think I was making $15.00 an hour.
- 35:02Damn it might have been. I think they convinced me to go
- 35:07salary for like 25,000 a year really or something.
- 35:10I remember when I was making like it was a big deal for me
- 35:13when I got my first $11.00 an hour job.
- 35:15And I well, I was in the Bay Area.
- 35:17Yeah, I know, I know. And I remember making $11.00 an
- 35:19hour. It was, it was a sous chef job
- 35:21and I was negotiating with the with the person.
- 35:24I was like, can I get like 1125? And they're like no, take it or
- 35:26leave it. I was like $11.00, like a $2.00
- 35:29raise for my $9. Yeah, I'll take.
- 35:31It Yeah, yeah, yeah, that's and, and that's what it was.
- 35:33So as soon as I got out of culinary school, I was expecting
- 35:37to make money like that was it and I didn't care.
- 35:40So I wasn't chasing. I wasn't going to go to the the
- 35:46fanciest play I remember. So like in culinary school, you
- 35:50know, you have to go find a place to do an externship.
- 35:53Everybody was going to French Laundry or Stars or Chez Panisse
- 35:57or like a bunch of my friends went to Picasso, like in Vegas
- 36:01and like everything was going on.
- 36:03I didn't. Was everyone stayed in
- 36:05California? Was that the like from CCA?
- 36:07The most, most people were, and a lot of the people that were
- 36:11looking for those externships weren't from California.
- 36:13Do you know where? So I went to a culinary school
- 36:15in Portland. Do you know where the hot places
- 36:17were? Where you're not going to
- 36:19believe. This where?
- 36:20Taco Bell. I'm not, I'm not kidding.
- 36:22I remember the Taco Bell person came.
- 36:24They were trying to recruit from culinary school and saying you
- 36:26know, store manager from Taco Bell.
- 36:29I remember the numbers making 50,000 a year.
- 36:31Right. Like I didn't go to school.
- 36:32That's where I would have been. But I'll still be a Taco Bell.
- 36:34Never forget, they were Taco Bells showing up trying to
- 36:37recruit. And a lot of kids went, yeah,
- 36:40they're like, fuck, that's a lot of money at Taco Bell to be a
- 36:43Taco Bell manager. The Benson Hotel in Portland, OR
- 36:46was the other one that was getting, you know, big
- 36:48recruitment, but the Playboy Mansion.
- 36:50Oh shit. The Playboy Mansion was taking
- 36:52and and Disney like Disney Playboy mansion, Taco Bell and
- 36:55and the Benson Hotel. Everyone from my culinary
- 36:58school's like we got to get into that Playboy mansion.
- 37:00It was like the fucking hottest. It was the hottest place for
- 37:03people to try and get an internship.
- 37:05Well, when, when for whatever reason, there was so many people
- 37:10trying to go to these spots and I didn't want to go like I had
- 37:15no desire. I just thought it was corny.
- 37:17I thought it was like I, I didn't even know anything about
- 37:21it, right. Because I went to stars a bunch
- 37:23because it was near my school and, and I had a bunch of people
- 37:26working there. But I like, I would go see them
- 37:28work in a station and like a place like stars with like the
- 37:32volume that stars was doing. And I was like, I don't want to,
- 37:34I don't want to do that. I don't want to work and one
- 37:39station and have one component to one dish, you know what I
- 37:42mean? I want to do, I want to do
- 37:44everything and I want to be in charge.
- 37:46You know how to cook. That's not the problem.
- 37:48The problem is getting your team to do what you want when you
- 37:51want it. That's leadership.
- 37:53My book, Culinary Leadership Fundamentals, breaks down
- 37:55exactly how to run a kitchen without losing your mind.
- 37:58Stop yelling. Start leading.
- 37:59Get the book at Chefs psa.com. And so like my trajectory was
- 38:06totally backwards. So like coming from volume and
- 38:11institutional and then trying to make money and then going to The
- 38:14Four Seasons and then starting to see like what we were talking
- 38:19about a little bit earlier when you, when, when I went to The
- 38:21Four Seasons, I was on the tail end of the change. the IT was
- 38:28changing. It was the Clift Hotel and it
- 38:29was changing from the actual Four Seasons into a Marriott.
- 38:33And then ultimately Schrager bought it while I was there.
- 38:35I did the Millennium New Year's at the at that hotel.
- 38:40So I didn't get to work with all of the chefs that ran it, but I
- 38:43got to work with all the cooks and all the servers and all the
- 38:47bartenders. There were like 20-30 year union
- 38:50employees. They knew it.
- 38:51They knew everything. Yeah.
- 38:53And. For people that don't know, we
- 38:54were talking about this earlier, the chef at The Four Seasons of
- 38:56the time, Mercer Moore, Yeah, who I met as well.
- 39:01We crossed paths briefly, and I remember him telling me that his
- 39:05sous chefs at the time at The Four Seasons in San Francisco
- 39:07were Michael Mina, Mario Batali. Right, right, right.
- 39:09Yes. And I didn't get to meet them,
- 39:13but there were Mario. I don't I don't remember ever
- 39:17hearing of him being in San Francisco, at least while I was
- 39:19there. By the way, I have no idea if
- 39:21that's true. Yeah, I'm just taking his work.
- 39:23Yeah, yeah, yeah. There's so much also about like
- 39:27not being able to Google, you know, like I was thinking about
- 39:30it was. Better to lie back then.
- 39:32Yeah, yeah, get away with. It I was thinking about coming
- 39:34on here and I have like all these stories and I was like,
- 39:37damn, I don't even know if that's true.
- 39:39It's something that I've just known for my whole life.
- 39:41I don't even know if it's real. But but at the but Michael Mina
- 39:46was always around and you know, one of my he took over Charles
- 39:51Nob Hill at some point and and Ron Siegel from San Francisco
- 39:56was my he, he's he's kind of my. At that time.
- 40:00I'm the big fanboy. Fucking goat, right?
- 40:02So for people that don't know the name Ron Siegel, and I think
- 40:06it's important to do your homework on some of these great
- 40:08chefs that set the foundation for you.
- 40:10I don't know exactly what his relationship to the French
- 40:13Laundry. I don't know if he's a sous chef
- 40:14there or what, but he was. He went through that system and
- 40:17then he was the chef of the dining room at the Ritz Carlton
- 40:21in San Francisco. I think it might have actually
- 40:23been his concept. Right, right.
- 40:26Something like that. But he was the first American to
- 40:30go on Iron Chef Japan before Iron Chef America even was a.
- 40:34Thought it's the reason that I have ever heard of Iron Chef.
- 40:37It wasn't the other way around. He didn't get famous from my
- 40:40perspective. He didn't get famous from being
- 40:42on Iron Chef. Iron Chef got famous to me
- 40:44because he was on it right? And and watching him and like,
- 40:47first of all, seeing Iron Chef in that, you know, again, no
- 40:51Google back in the days. I, I'm just gonna sound like a
- 40:55old guy. But like the only way you saw
- 40:57that was passed around VHS tapes that cuz somebody found some non
- 41:03translated Japanese stadium cooking show that this dude from
- 41:08San Francisco went on and crushed and and won battle
- 41:12lobster. Well, and the crazy thing was is
- 41:14he was. Correct me if I'm wrong.
- 41:15I'm. I'm, but I believe this.
- 41:17The mayor of San Francisco hand selected him.
- 41:19So, like, probably we need a chef to represent the United
- 41:22States, to go to fucking Japan beyond this crazy stadium game
- 41:25show and fucking be the best of us.
- 41:28Yeah, Be the best chance we have to fucking win.
- 41:30And they sent Ron Siegel and he fucking won.
- 41:33Yeah, yeah, he fucking won. He's a total fucking gangster.
- 41:36And I think, I don't think that I've ever said more than high
- 41:42chef, big fan. Yeah, Like, I think that's my
- 41:45only the extent of our conversations ever.
- 41:47But having seen him around and like, been in the same places at
- 41:53the same time, you know, like, he is just the most unassuming
- 41:57dude and like, not that Iron Chef guy, you know what I mean?
- 42:02Like for him I wonder? I would love to hear his
- 42:05perspective on that story. Yeah, I saw what I Ron.
- 42:07I don't know if you listen. To the show.
- 42:08Yeah, yeah, yeah. You got AI got a chair for you?
- 42:10Yeah, I want to know what that was like.
- 42:12For sure and and like, you know his stuff that he did like my
- 42:17first. So he was at Charles Nob Hill,
- 42:20which Michael mean I ended up owning, I think.
- 42:23But my experience at Charles Nob Hill, because I was such a big
- 42:29fan, I proposed to my wife on our anniversary, on our dating
- 42:34anniversary and I was carrying around a ring with a little
- 42:38proposal note in the box. And she gave me my anniversary
- 42:44present 1st. And it was a tie and a gift
- 42:46certificate to Charles Nob Hill so I could go have bronze
- 42:49tasting menu. And it was the first fancy fine
- 42:54dining tasting experience that I've ever been a part of.
- 42:57And but it, like the the gift presentation, was overshadowed
- 43:00by me proposing. Was it was it a tasting menu
- 43:02back there or was it a la carte? Do you remember?
- 43:04No, it was tasting for sure. Yeah, yeah.
- 43:05It was like, and you had a choice.
- 43:07I can't remember how many courses, but it was a it was a
- 43:11we got the extended course, like whatever.
- 43:13And you know, when I met my wife when we first started dating,
- 43:17she was like Lean Cuisines and like a medium oil filet or well
- 43:22filet. And like we went there and it
- 43:24was like sweet breads and you know, like it just everything.
- 43:28And she was like a little hesitant, but she ate
- 43:30everything. We still, I was saying something
- 43:34to her during that dinner that we still use now, right.
- 43:37Like when we go out with people, it's like, taste it because if
- 43:40you don't like it here, you're never going to like it.
- 43:43That's that. I'll tell you.
- 43:45That's a fucking true statement. That's it.
- 43:46So if you don't like Ron Siegel's sweetbreads, you're
- 43:49never going to like them, so you may as well taste it now.
- 43:52Yeah, that's a great point. And and, you know, we're talking
- 43:55about back in the day, we had like the food lovers companion.
- 43:59What were the food lovers companion?
- 44:02Dictionary chefs, Yes. Library chefs, Yeah.
- 44:05And then, you know, the next generation was the generation of
- 44:08chefs that had Google for information.
- 44:11And then the third generation after that, the current ones,
- 44:13the AI generation, right? You don't need Google.
- 44:16But in, in my opinion, when we were coming up, I think you hit
- 44:20the nail on the head earlier when we were talking that one of
- 44:24the things that I think people miss out is you had to learn it
- 44:28and you had to memorize it because.
- 44:30You, you, you. Needed to memorize the terms and
- 44:33the definitions and the recipes and things like that because you
- 44:36weren't going to look it up on your phone.
- 44:37There was, if you didn't know it, there was no going back to,
- 44:41to, to the computer to figure it out.
- 44:43You needed to know that information.
- 44:45And I think I mean, I remember when we were cooks, we'd like
- 44:49quiz each other all the time. Like what is matignon?
- 44:51What is this, you know, tell us the five mother sauces.
- 44:53It was like constant, like breakdown a Chantilly.
- 44:57Can you use powdered sugar? Can you have to use granulated?
- 45:00And also because, like, it's not even if your place had recipes,
- 45:05they would call for hollandaise, there wouldn't be a sub recipe
- 45:11for the mother sauce. It would just be whatever, you
- 45:14know what I mean? So like, what the hell?
- 45:17What is that? Like, I remember I had to look
- 45:18up what a Dutch oven was. Yeah, because of the recipe.
- 45:21I was making the soup and the recipe called for a Dutch oven.
- 45:23I didn't know what it was. And I was like, how?
- 45:25And there was nowhere to go. Like I had to like, keep calling
- 45:29people until I found like the food lovers companion.
- 45:33And it's crazy because you know that that food lover's companion
- 45:35was like, it is it is what we fucking base you were talking
- 45:40about The the the in the back. There was like the grid.
- 45:42Yeah, not the grid, but like the the there was bring down the.
- 45:45Range measurement, conversion, smoke points, cuts of meat, like
- 45:49all that stuff. And I was talking to, I hired a,
- 45:52my, my new chef for the company I'm working with now.
- 45:55He's younger. And I was telling him how
- 45:57reliant I was on the food lovers companion.
- 45:59He was like, oh, me too. You're not that old.
- 46:01I was like, no, but you don't understand.
- 46:02Like there was no, I was known not having it.
- 46:07It was like having your phone. My chef would tell me something
- 46:10and it would just be like yes chef if.
- 46:11You don't know if it'll. Walk in and go look it up
- 46:14otherwise. And then the same thing when we
- 46:16were talking about having recipes passed down from people
- 46:21like professionals or craftspeople that did it from
- 46:23one person to another. I have all these notes.
- 46:27I remember just like standing on the line on Saute and writing
- 46:32down the steps of everything that went into the pan sauce,
- 46:35right? Like start with this, start with
- 46:37the, you know, next this, next this.
- 46:39And I would write it down on my on a post it or my little
- 46:43notepad. And that was my recipe.
- 46:46Like if there was no like referring back or being able to
- 46:49go ask, you know, like because they didn't want to hear from
- 46:52me. Not the not the OG union cooks
- 46:56at the hotel, you know they didn't they didn't care and.
- 46:58It's funny because back in the day, you know I had one of these
- 47:00recipe books I found like an old notebook of mine with.
- 47:04It wasn't even a recipe, it was just method to pick up on the
- 47:06saute, add garlic, add. Shallots D plays you.
- 47:09Know so on and so forth but a lot of times and I'm you know I
- 47:13talked to chefs all day you're talking about Gabe earlier
- 47:15sending you a recipe for tortillas right Yeah.
- 47:19And I, and I think what people miss is that there's no secrets,
- 47:24like where everyone's sharing recipes all the time.
- 47:26Totally. And then you don't know where
- 47:28they came from. And you might be in a restaurant
- 47:30five years later. Yeah.
- 47:31And then like, you've been making this recipe that was
- 47:33handed to you by one person, that was handed by another
- 47:35person by it. And then and then someone
- 47:37notices all that came from this cookbooks.
- 47:38Like, I didn't know. I never had that.
- 47:40Right, 100%. This was handed to me.
- 47:42Three or four times. Yeah, once it's out there as a,
- 47:45you know, in the in the public domain, yeah, it's like it's
- 47:48fair game at that point. Everyone's using it at their.
- 47:50Restaurants, I mean, there was a period of time and like the mid
- 47:532000s where like the salmon cornet was everywhere with
- 47:55catering everywhere and, and whether it was like the actual
- 47:59recipe or, or whatever, they were everywhere.
- 48:03And then like you can buy the cornets and sometimes they're
- 48:06sweet. There'd be like some shitty
- 48:08tartar in this sweet like ice cream cone thing.
- 48:12And like these younger cooks would have no idea where it was
- 48:15from. And you, you, you know, like
- 48:18they think they created something or whatever.
- 48:20And like, you know, the other thing I had AI had kind of a,
- 48:25an, a, an epiphany moment when I went, I moved to New York City
- 48:29in 2010 and I'd been going there for work a bunch.
- 48:34But when I moved there in 2010, you know, I grew up listening to
- 48:39hip hop and punk rock. Hip hop 1st and then and then I
- 48:42got into punk rock because the scenes were.
- 48:45Very Bay Area hip hop. Yeah, no, no, no.
- 48:47I was East Coast hip hop. I listened to the Cole Crush
- 48:49brothers first, Cole Crush to Run DMC and then and I actually,
- 48:53I hated Bay Area hip hop. But now, you know, it's like
- 48:58it's my DNA. So now it's just like my
- 49:00childhood. So now I listen to everything.
- 49:01But like for years I hated, I hated West Coast rap at all.
- 49:05So it was all New York. But so when I went to New York,
- 49:08from food to music, rap, punk rock, food, it was like a museum
- 49:14to me. Like New York was just like, it
- 49:16was like Mecca, you know, like every, every street I drove
- 49:20past, I either had some association with food or a hip
- 49:23hop lyric or like something from the Beastie Boys or punk rock or
- 49:27or whatever. And I started going to all the
- 49:31restaurants that I had only read about, like in Gourmet magazine
- 49:36or whatever. Seen pictures because I don't
- 49:37read really. So the all the pictures that I
- 49:39saw I was going to look for. But I went to and I used to have
- 49:44like this progressive brunch that I used to bring people on
- 49:47when they'd come to visit. There's a place called Mac Bar
- 49:50that just served macaroni and cheese like out of this little
- 49:52window. And they like have the coolest
- 49:54merch and like they served the macaroni and cheese.
- 49:57I'm like this yellow half. It looked like a piece of
- 50:01macaroni, right? Yeah, OK.
- 50:02It was the coolest branding. Food was mid, but it was like
- 50:06kind of a a must do. So we'd go to Mac bar donut
- 50:10plant and then WD-50 and we'd get the eggs Benedict or like
- 50:14the eggs quarantine at WD-50. And I had like this love, hate
- 50:18relationship with the, the, you know this.
- 50:26Like the molecular movement? Yeah, the molecular movement.
- 50:28But like I went to a convert, I we had AI went to a talk with
- 50:32Wiley and somebody was asking him about molecular gastronomy
- 50:35back in the day and he like took offense to it.
- 50:39Like he was like, what is molecular gastronomy?
- 50:41And so I still haven't really come up with that answer.
- 50:44So I hesitate to call it the molecular movement, but I had
- 50:46like this, I was so impressed with like the fried hollandaise
- 50:52and like just the approach and making that dish and, and I went
- 50:56there like probably once a week to have it.
- 50:58It was fantastic. And but like I didn't know how
- 51:04he made it and I would always just try to figure stuff out.
- 51:08And then that same it was, I don't know if it was at the
- 51:11same. Well, it was around the same
- 51:13time period that it was Restaurant Week and I went to,
- 51:16while I'm trying to come to grips with my feeling about like
- 51:21fried hollandaise and, and, you know, things that are done so
- 51:25well, but from a different standpoint of craftsmanship,
- 51:29right. I went to Nougatine by John
- 51:33George for Restaurant Week and my wife and I never stuck to
- 51:36Restaurant Week menus. We always got all the
- 51:39supplements and ended up paying $1,000,000.
- 51:40And even though we went there for the $40 Restaurant Week
- 51:43menu, we just, everything was, yeah, we'll take the upgrade.
- 51:47But we went to Nougatine and I stuck to the the menu and it was
- 51:53a roasted chicken breast with chicken juice, mashed potatoes
- 51:57and green beans. And it was like still one of the
- 52:00most memorable meals that I've had in New York.
- 52:02And it was like because. Because it was executed, it was
- 52:05just. Perfect like the chicken was
- 52:08perfect It was moist where it was supposed to be moist.
- 52:10The skin was crispy mashed potatoes were velvety.
- 52:13The, the chicken chew was super rich and the green beans were
- 52:18perfect. And it was just simple.
- 52:20And I, I thought to myself, and I wrote it down like the
- 52:26difference between the two approaches is like one of the
- 52:31way I put it was like, you know, like a Willy Wonka is amazing,
- 52:36but he's not really a chef, you know, like the, the John George
- 52:41aspect of it. And this is nothing to take away
- 52:45or give too much credit to either one of the approaches,
- 52:49but I am way more into just the classic cooking approach.
- 52:59But I also found that you can't be well-rounded or talk shit
- 53:06about something unless you have a full understanding of how to
- 53:08do it. Because then it looks like
- 53:09you're a quitter or it looks like you're, you know, just
- 53:12talking shit from the outside. And it's really easy to hate
- 53:16when you don't know how to do something, you know what I mean?
- 53:18And. And Wiley is the Jean Schwarz
- 53:20guy. Right, right.
- 53:21Yeah, yeah, yeah. And and you know, like the other
- 53:25thing was like I did an event, I do a lot of catering and event
- 53:30production as well. And I did an event with somebody
- 53:33and they were doing encapsulated that some sort of encapsulation
- 53:39and they were doing encapsulated ranch or and I think the same.
- 53:44Like reverse verification? Yeah.
- 53:47Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. And it was like, you know,
- 53:50there's nothing impressive about because you.
- 53:57Don't want to. You don't want to encapsulate a
- 53:59ranch on your slicer. Pizza Yeah no, I mean that does
- 54:01sound kind of sound bomb or at least at least efficient but the
- 54:07you know the the they've the people that created the sodium
- 54:14alginate calcium citrate situation that is genius but you
- 54:20got to leave it with them you know what I mean?
- 54:22Like or understand it and let it propel you to coming up with the
- 54:27next thing. But like the more you maybe it's
- 54:34not so much that you can't use it because it's not like I don't
- 54:37encapsulate stuff, but the it's more of respecting it and and
- 54:43treating it like, you know. Don't treat it like a joke.
- 54:47Yeah, don't treat it like a joke.
- 54:48And just because they made this thing, I mean, just think about
- 54:51what it takes to come up with those two things.
- 54:53I mean, that's not cooking. That's just brilliance and
- 54:57science. Like, I, it's crazy to me.
- 54:59Like I don't understand that aspect of things.
- 55:03But now that they've done it, it's really easy.
- 55:06Like now that I I mean. Like the person who invented the
- 55:09wheel. Yeah, yeah.
- 55:11Yeah, I think my analogy is just because you've learned how to
- 55:14play Stairway to Heaven doesn't mean you wrote it right, Right.
- 55:18Exactly. Yeah, just cuz you know how to
- 55:20play it soft. Yeah, you're not gonna go do
- 55:22open mics just playing Stairway to Heaven, Yeah.
- 55:25Just just because, just because you know the fucking joke that
- 55:27you saw on the stand up special and you're repeating it?
- 55:29Yeah, yeah. Isn't being you're funny?
- 55:30Yeah, 100. Percent right there.
- 55:32There's a certain, there's a certain art to it and a lot of
- 55:34respect to those guys that were doing that movement of, you
- 55:38know, we have to classify it as molecular because I don't know
- 55:40what else to call it. So for the audience listening
- 55:42like, hey, we're calling it this.
- 55:43Yeah. If if you have a better word,
- 55:45tell me. Yeah, yeah.
- 55:46But a lot of chefs that were doing that and I, and I was one
- 55:49of them. I was one of those chefs that I
- 55:50was, I was an early adopter of that style of food when I was in
- 55:53California and I was doing that and I found it fascinating.
- 55:56But I'll never forget when I came face to face with him.
- 55:59This was the reality that I faced is I remember, I don't
- 56:02know what I was doing. It was a mango sphere or
- 56:04something. It was one of these spheres
- 56:05reverse verification things. I remember I tasted I was like
- 56:08but it just doesn't taste good. Yeah, yeah.
- 56:10Right, right, right. Yeah, like it was like it tastes
- 56:11like mango with a little bit of you're.
- 56:13Doing it for the sake of doing it.
- 56:14Right. It's like, I wanted it to be
- 56:15interesting. I wanted to be provocative and
- 56:18show people things that they've never seen before.
- 56:20But it's like but it doesn't. It tastes as good as this.
- 56:23Right. And it's in my opinion.
- 56:25The thing about that, that was the thing about the WD-50
- 56:30Hollandaise, it was perfect. It tasted perfect, like, and,
- 56:36and it blew me away because again, I wasn't familiar enough
- 56:39with the technique when I used to go there and I used to try to
- 56:42figure out how they did it all the time, like, oh God, what do
- 56:45you put in that? Like how to hold its form when
- 56:48you fry it. Like I don't, I don't
- 56:50understand. And I would sit there, I would
- 56:51eat it every week and and you know, I've never sang with
- 56:55Wiley. I've never had more than like 2
- 56:57words conversation with him. And I would just sit there and
- 57:00try to understand it. And then like a drop of the
- 57:04hollandaise fell on my table like while I was eating and like
- 57:08when it gets cold it solidifies and I could feel it.
- 57:10It was like a dip and dot sort of thing.
- 57:12And I was like, huh, Well, now, I mean, now I understand it.
- 57:15But like, I think with places like WD-50, for example, and the
- 57:19stuff that, you know, all those guys that I respect the hell out
- 57:22of do. Yeah, The flavor is first, Yeah.
- 57:25And while he's a. Pioneer and now he's doing
- 57:26pizza. That's.
- 57:27That's wild. Doughnuts or whatever.
- 57:29Yeah, like the guy knows how to cook.
- 57:31Like I think people forget like they they put him into this box
- 57:34of like being this, but it's like the dude, this is a fucking
- 57:37gangster in the kitchen regard. Like in any realm.
- 57:40Yeah, in any realm. Like you think you can't saute a
- 57:42fucking? Chicken.
- 57:43Yeah, yeah, yeah, I think. You can't roast a chicken too.
- 57:45Or make a fucking espanol. I think that's probably why I
- 57:47was getting annoyed at the talk that I was listening to.
- 57:50Yeah, so you do some work with Shaka Pen.
- 57:53Yes. How does that come?
- 57:54Come to be, By the way, also a fucking legend.
- 57:56One of the best books ever, right?
- 57:58La Technique, LA, I thought. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 58:00I mean, I was lucky enough the, the, the one of my business
- 58:07partners and former head of my company obviously took a big
- 58:13interest in the culinary arts and, and our discipline.
- 58:17And I found out about Jacques de Panne Foundation at their first
- 58:23gala and we went and we were promoting our restaurant at the
- 58:28time, Butcher Town Grocery. And we got to meet Jacques, got
- 58:35to meet the family. And we just kind of, I don't
- 58:39know if it was like the first time that we went, but my wife
- 58:45and I kind of became fast friends with his son-in-law,
- 58:49Raleigh and Claudine, his daughter.
- 58:52And so, and we've been friends, You know, we've done a bunch of
- 58:56stuff since like we went to the Derby together, Kentucky Derby,
- 58:59all kinds of stuff. And I've been lucky enough to to
- 59:03be able to cook for Jacques at like the Greenwich Food and Wine
- 59:06Festival, and he came to the opening of our senior living
- 59:10restaurant and Hudson Yards and all kinds of really cool stuff
- 59:17has happened as a result of the JPF.
- 59:20And I'm lucky enough now that they trust me to kind of be an
- 59:23ambassador for them. So like for 90 for 90 Jacques
- 59:27birthday initiative that they did last year, they had 90
- 59:33cooking events and 90 different venues in honor of Jacques 90th
- 59:36birthday. So Jacques is 90 and still like,
- 59:40he still does demos like his. His hands are ridiculous.
- 59:45PBS series back in the day when when he would like teach you how
- 59:48to debone a chicken for Ballantine or the French and all
- 59:51he's just he's fucking amazing like he's.
- 59:54It's 1. Of the the greats, he's one of
- 59:57the greats. He's in his own category.
- 59:58Yeah, yeah. The coolest thing about being
- 1:00:00around, being able to be at those events is seeing Danielle,
- 1:00:09John George, Danny Meyer, anybody, anybody who who you can
- 1:00:15think of the coolest people, the people that would be the coolest
- 1:00:19people in any room are all. Enamored was Jacques like
- 1:00:24there's no he is the most respected person that I've ever
- 1:00:28seen in the hospitality industry and having to have had the
- 1:00:33opportunity to hang out with him like personally and then you
- 1:00:37know, like do stuff outside of events and stuff with him it he
- 1:00:42is the most genuine real person that I've ever been around from.
- 1:00:48I've never met him. It's so crazy, and it's almost
- 1:00:53like a negative thing because we'll sit having a conversation
- 1:00:58and all of a sudden we're equals in my mind because the
- 1:01:02conversation is so normal and chill.
- 1:01:05And I'm trying to relate. He was telling me about his
- 1:01:08garden at one point that he was taken care of.
- 1:01:10And I was like, yeah, would you grow?
- 1:01:11I had this. Whatever.
- 1:01:12And he was like, no, this wasn't mine.
- 1:01:13This is Michelle Obama's like at the White House.
- 1:01:18And I was like, yeah, we are not alike, but isn't.
- 1:01:22That so cool that like everyone sees Jacques, then you see him
- 1:01:27as like up here and and that's probably even better like that.
- 1:01:32And I'll, you know, I have a very similar situation where
- 1:01:35Thomas Keller sat down. I was at a table and was like
- 1:01:39Matthew Peters, Philip Tessier, myself, Lauren Peters, Phil
- 1:01:43Tessier's wife. And then Thomas came and sat
- 1:01:46down with us and talking and it was like one of the best moments
- 1:01:50I've ever had because he just was normal.
- 1:01:55Like, he wasn't Thomas Keller. He was just, yeah, he was just
- 1:01:58talking. We were just having a
- 1:01:59conversation about whatever we happen to be talking about.
- 1:02:01And I remember thinking to myself at that moment, it was it
- 1:02:04was a very beautiful moment. I was like, you know what?
- 1:02:08To me, seeing him normal is all is almost better than seeing
- 1:02:13Thomas Kelly, if that makes sense.
- 1:02:15And while you're saying that, though, that I just kind of had
- 1:02:17this light go off like, you know, it's the other really cool
- 1:02:21thing about our industry and what we do because you can just
- 1:02:26because we all just cook, like ultimately it's just cooking.
- 1:02:31And like to watch, like to see Jacques just move around like a
- 1:02:36house party, you know, like. And.
- 1:02:38And Raleigh, his son-in-law tells me that one of the best
- 1:02:42meals, forgive me if I'm quoting this wrong, Raleigh, but one of
- 1:02:46his best meals that he had was after they cooked a bunch of
- 1:02:50chickens for a a dinner party. Jacques took the carcasses and
- 1:02:55roasted them again. And they ate those as their
- 1:02:58dinner the next night. Wow.
- 1:02:59And Raleigh was like, it was like the best thing that I ever
- 1:03:02had. How cool is that?
- 1:03:02And And it's like, it's just you.
- 1:03:05You demystify. Yeah.
- 1:03:07Everything. And it's he he likes to paint,
- 1:03:09right? Yeah.
- 1:03:09Oh, yeah. Yeah.
- 1:03:10So I have one of his one of his paintings that he, he did
- 1:03:15lithograph. Yeah.
- 1:03:17Yung Yun, who's part of Mentor BKB, gave it to me as a gift and
- 1:03:21it's like one of my prized possessions on my wall in my
- 1:03:23office. We have we have AI have it in my
- 1:03:26house now, but we we got my my buddy bought the one of the
- 1:03:32first Roosters the and it's this big.
- 1:03:35It's it's huge. And we had it hanging over the
- 1:03:38entrance of our kitchen at the restaurant.
- 1:03:41So like everybody had to pass by Jacques.
- 1:03:43And then when we open this place in Hudson Yards, it was behind
- 1:03:47the the major D stand. So like everybody, you had to
- 1:03:50pay homage to to Jacques every time you.
- 1:03:53Walk. If Jacques is ever down here in
- 1:03:54Texas, please invite me to. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'd love to
- 1:03:57meet. He's well the big gala is April
- 1:03:599th at Chelsea Piers. Yeah in in New York.
- 1:04:02I, I, I, I did a bourbon experience, the best of Kentucky
- 1:04:11experience for an auction item for the JPF that they're going
- 1:04:15to be auctioning off. And I'm kind of the I'm part of
- 1:04:19the package as your your bourbon concierge phone a friend.
- 1:04:22Yeah, what's up with the bourbon?
- 1:04:23With the bourbon here. So having lived in Kentucky, my
- 1:04:27company, my senior living company, Atria and Coterie that
- 1:04:31I got permission to say they Adrian Coterie, that they're
- 1:04:35based in Louisville, KY. And so I lived there.
- 1:04:40I worked there for like 10 years, but actually, sorry for
- 1:04:4520 years, but I actually lived there for a little over 8 and we
- 1:04:49had a we have a restaurant there that closed and COVID, but the
- 1:04:53bakery is still open, Butchertown Grocery bakery.
- 1:04:56But I got kind of my indoctrination to bourbon with
- 1:05:00opening the restaurant. I see it.
- 1:05:01Yeah, yeah, that's for you. You can open that up.
- 1:05:04Thank you and people. Can see it on the camera.
- 1:05:06We've done we've done lots of single barrels.
- 1:05:09So I got to learn a lot about Kentucky and Kentucky bourbon
- 1:05:12and it's actually the only thing that I drink now.
- 1:05:15When I do, it's only bourbon and now as.
- 1:05:18Well, by the way, these days. Well, there you go.
- 1:05:20Yeah. And now I'm working for this
- 1:05:22company called Urban Still House and Horse Soldier Bourbon.
- 1:05:27So that this thing I tried to I was trying to kind of slow down
- 1:05:32and. People find it everywhere.
- 1:05:34Yeah, that's distributed everywhere.
- 1:05:37Horse Soldier bourbon is distributed everywhere and we
- 1:05:40take it out, take it out, look at the bottle because of the
- 1:05:42bottle is kind of cool. So this, the story about this,
- 1:05:47this is started, the bourbon is started by the group of Green
- 1:05:51Berets that went to Afghanistan after 911.
- 1:05:54And this is not them kind of being sponsored and figureheads
- 1:06:00for a bourbon company. This is them, they make it.
- 1:06:03They they came back. The bottle is the, is the shape
- 1:06:06of a canteen and it fits in a canteen holder.
- 1:06:09Yeah. And there's some really cool
- 1:06:13stories. If you you can Google it to look
- 1:06:16up Horse Soldier Bourbon, I will.
- 1:06:18And but the, the bottle itself, it's formed like all bottles are
- 1:06:26formed in these little bottle forms that are made of steel.
- 1:06:30And this one is formed with steel from the World Trade
- 1:06:34Center. And so every bottle touches a
- 1:06:37piece of the fallen World Trade Center.
- 1:06:40And, and this it's, I'm lucky enough to be connected with
- 1:06:44them. And we're kind of back full
- 1:06:45circle with the starting on an aircraft carrier and being a
- 1:06:49military cook and then learn bourbon.
- 1:06:51And now I'm back home in Florida and yeah, but I think this is
- 1:06:56one of my favorite ones. This is the the straight.
- 1:06:59I think I know, I think I know what I'm having for dinner.
- 1:07:01Today, that's what's. Up chef when we start wrapping
- 1:07:05up I I usually have a couple of questions that I like to ask.
- 1:07:08So the first one I'm going to ask you is if you have a a a
- 1:07:11kitchen salt that you use like your all-purpose kitchen salt
- 1:07:14for everything. Yes.
- 1:07:15Which one do you use? I think all well, my pass, I was
- 1:07:21just talking with my chef about this the other day.
- 1:07:24My pass has plain mold and smoke molding and black mold and it's
- 1:07:32I don't think the black is actually molding, but it's a
- 1:07:35black crystal salt. I use all those for finishing
- 1:07:39and then the kitchen is just only.
- 1:07:40Kosher like diamond crystal, Diamond crystal, Diamond
- 1:07:43crystal, yeah, yes. And do you have like a go to
- 1:07:46finishing acid? Like is it lemon?
- 1:07:48Is it vinegar? Is it something else?
- 1:07:51Yeah, for I am big into zest, yeah.
- 1:07:55And so also on my past, I have a bowl of citrus OK, and so and I
- 1:08:00have a just. Rasp it really quick.
- 1:08:01Yes yeah but I have AI always have an all-purpose vinaigrette
- 1:08:06that is just citrus and olive oil and salt pepper, not
- 1:08:10emulsified. I just use that so everything
- 1:08:12gets a hint of flavor. Yeah, a specific citrus or just
- 1:08:17any? Whatever's good, I, I vacillate
- 1:08:21like and usually I'll try to combine all three like lemon,
- 1:08:25orange and lime because I like, I like the real acidity of the
- 1:08:30lemon, I like the sweetness of the orange and I like the the
- 1:08:33limeyness of the lime. And do you do you have like a
- 1:08:37specific go to olive oil that you use for finishing?
- 1:08:40Moanin I like. And then The funny thing is I
- 1:08:43have a well, my, one of my, my development chef Ben has a house
- 1:08:54in Greece and, and he's got a little olive orchard and they,
- 1:08:57he'll bring me back olive oil like once a year.
- 1:09:01And so that, that's for the house.
- 1:09:03But then at work, yeah, it's I don't really have one particular
- 1:09:10one. I'm always into olive oil and
- 1:09:14finishing oils. If you had advice to give to a
- 1:09:17young chef, a young cook that's just starting out in their
- 1:09:19career, and I'm asking this specifically because you've
- 1:09:21worked in so many different styles of kitchens, Yep.
- 1:09:25Where would you advise people to kind of start making their
- 1:09:29bones? If if it was just a general
- 1:09:31person that says I don't know where I'm going.
- 1:09:33For me, but this is like my legit answer because I just tell
- 1:09:37people to go cook anywhere, like go cook in a restaurant,
- 1:09:42preferably not fast food, not there is anything wrong with
- 1:09:45fast food. And like I, I could go down how
- 1:09:47many rabbit holes that you made me think of with being recruited
- 1:09:51by Taco Bell or I'm like just, you know, there is something to
- 1:09:56be said for all of the studies and efficiencies that fast food
- 1:10:01places have made. And I geeked out on that.
- 1:10:04I developed a commissary and and I do all kinds of Labor studies
- 1:10:09and it's that I could geek out on that as much as I could geek
- 1:10:12out on flavors, but just cook. Go somewhere where you actually
- 1:10:17have to use a pan, actually have to use a flat top and burn
- 1:10:21yourself and cut yourself and figure out if it's you like the
- 1:10:24you know, I always have. My other saying is, you know,
- 1:10:28the the stove is the same whatever restaurant you go to.
- 1:10:33Like the stove with the French Laundry is the same as the one
- 1:10:36that Outback Steakhouse. And I'm like maybe a little bit
- 1:10:39different Btus and a fancier brand, but it does the same
- 1:10:43thing. Yeah.
- 1:10:45And and Jacques, back to Jacques le Pan, they have a shirt.
- 1:10:49He's got a saying, and I have the the shirt that says that
- 1:10:52we're all equals in the eyes and stuff.
- 1:10:54And so if, if you can, you can. If you can't, you can't.
- 1:10:58Right. I love that.
- 1:10:59And if you had your Mount Rushmore 4 chefs that should be
- 1:11:02on there, who are they? That's a tough one.
- 1:11:07Well, obviously, Ron Siegel how that we've been talking about
- 1:11:09him, Jacques Thomas and oh, there's so many.
- 1:11:23I'm just going to go Jose Andres.
- 1:11:26There you go, chef. Where can people find you if
- 1:11:28they want to follow you on social media, If they want to
- 1:11:30eat your food, If they want to drink some whiskey, Where?
- 1:11:33Where could they? Where could they follow?
- 1:11:35Along so you follow me at on Instagram, I'm hand that feeds
- 1:11:42my bakery is or the bakery that I'm partners with shout out
- 1:11:46Amanda Butchertown grocery bakery online and then the
- 1:11:53company that I'm working with now is horse soldier bourbon and
- 1:11:56urban still house urban still house in Saint Pete, Florida and
- 1:12:00one in Somerset, KY, soon to be more.
- 1:12:02Awesome, this was fun. Let's go get some Not a Damn
- 1:12:04Chance burger. Yeah, Yeah, let's do it.
- 1:12:06All right. Thank you.
- 1:12:07Cheers. All right, that's the show.
- 1:12:09If you liked it, make sure you leave five stars, nothing less
- 1:12:11than five stars. If you want more chefs, PSA, go
- 1:12:14to chefspsa.com. Get yourself some books, get
- 1:12:17yourself some merch, including Culinary Leadership Fundamentals
- 1:12:20and the Line Cook Survival Manual.
- 1:12:21If you want early access to episodes, you can get them on
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- 1:12:26The link is in the notes.