Latest / INSPIRE STORY / #047_ The best of all time
Transcript
- 0:25Speaker 1: When Issa hotels than I mean Duran Tanak good things
- 0:35Speaker 1: A B and s B press, those that much talib
- 0:39Speaker 1: is and those musics.
- 0:42Speaker 2: Che monkey, you know people, you monkey, You're gonna.
- 0:49Speaker 1: Starts all maxim alas still alp and th conditions SKA
- 0:54Speaker 1: very good.
- 0:55Speaker 3: I will see that stace today.
- 0:58Speaker 2: If you so fun is no please tell him, but
- 1:03Speaker 2: the wind is due to pick up windy up there.
- 1:08Speaker 2: I am feeling a shit, Kian.
- 1:10Speaker 3: I know it's not your fault, but everybody's to be worried.
- 1:18Speaker 2: Not fashiona models.
- 1:23Speaker 3: Well, I'm sure you'd rather be up in the mountains
- 1:26Speaker 3: just over the way right now than sitting here in
- 1:29Speaker 3: the studio.
- 1:29Speaker 4: This is like I think we have how many people.
- 1:31Speaker 1: Do we have in here?
- 1:32Speaker 3: This is the biggest crowd I've ever had in the
- 1:34Speaker 3: podcast here. I'm like, wow, we're performing for an audience today.
- 1:39Speaker 3: I've wanted to meet you for a very long time.
- 1:41Speaker 3: You're a huge inspiration to me and I'm just delighted
- 1:44Speaker 3: to talk to you. So I appreciate you taking time
- 1:46Speaker 3: out and you just got in. You just told me
- 1:49Speaker 3: you've been in like twenty different places in the last
- 1:51Speaker 3: like two weeks or something like that. Your time code
- 1:54Speaker 3: must be completely upside down.
- 1:57Speaker 1: Yeah, but I think it's good because we're changing, like
- 2:01Speaker 1: time zone every day is good because you don't know
- 2:05Speaker 1: where you are or when you are, so like you
- 2:09Speaker 1: don't feel any ja Like it's just like the mote
- 2:12Speaker 1: of these days, Like if you have ten minutes and
- 2:14Speaker 1: you can sleep, sleep because you don't know when it
- 2:16Speaker 1: will be the next time.
- 2:17Speaker 3: Right right, right, Well, if there's anybody who can endure
- 2:21Speaker 3: endure this, I think it's you.
- 2:22Speaker 4: So you're you're perfectly.
- 2:25Speaker 3: Suited to be able to manage that kind of crazy schedule.
- 2:30Speaker 3: And first of all, before we even get into it,
- 2:32Speaker 3: like congratulations, you have a baby coming on the way.
- 2:35Speaker 1: Yeah, thank you. It's exciting. Yeah probably, yeah, exciting and
- 2:39Speaker 1: scary in the same way. But yeah really it Yeah,
- 2:43Speaker 1: looking forward, I think like we need to work in
- 2:45Speaker 1: logistics the next year.
- 2:47Speaker 3: Yeah yeah, thinks are going to change a little bit,
- 2:49Speaker 3: I would imagine, Yeah, sure, No, you're looking at me like, no,
- 2:52Speaker 3: they're not going to change.
- 2:53Speaker 2: Yeah no, like yeah, of course, like they will change.
- 2:55Speaker 1: And especially like because both me and an Emily, my girlfriend,
- 2:59Speaker 1: like we both do the same lifestyle, so like we
- 3:04Speaker 1: will need to decide like who is racing whig race,
- 3:07Speaker 1: so the other can like be babysitting when the other racing,
- 3:10Speaker 1: so are Yeah, yeah, that is.
- 3:12Speaker 3: A little bit of an adjustment, I would imagine because
- 3:14Speaker 3: for people that are listening, I mean, Emily is an
- 3:16Speaker 3: incredibly accomplished ultra runner in her own right. You guys
- 3:19Speaker 3: were just in Nepal, right, and she was doing FKTs
- 3:23Speaker 3: like recently.
- 3:24Speaker 1: Yeah, actually she was this summer, like she was doing
- 3:28Speaker 1: some FKTs in some four thousand meters summits in the
- 3:33Speaker 1: Alps like mon Blanc and Monrose, and then like she
- 3:37Speaker 1: was doing some like long distant run like three hundred
- 3:39Speaker 1: mile run in Sweden and all these when she was pregnant,
- 3:42Speaker 1: like she didn't know all the time, but and yeah,
- 3:45Speaker 1: we were in Nepal now, like and she was just
- 3:47Speaker 1: climbing up to five thousand meters seventeen.
- 3:51Speaker 2: One hundred feeds and yeah, no it was feeling good.
- 3:54Speaker 3: Yeah right, So five and a half months pregnant. So
- 3:57Speaker 3: that means sometime this winter.
- 4:00Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, it will be winter, baby. That's that's good.
- 4:03Speaker 1: Like to start in the cold.
- 4:05Speaker 3: Does that change how you think about risk and how
- 4:09Speaker 3: you calculate, you know, the challenges that you want to undertake.
- 4:15Speaker 2: It's like.
- 4:18Speaker 1: It's hard to know because like risk, like risk is
- 4:22Speaker 1: nothing that it's objective. It's something that is very subjective,
- 4:25Speaker 1: like it's it's it's more a feeling that that that
- 4:29Speaker 1: mathematic thing. And I think it changed all the time,
- 4:33Speaker 1: Like sometimes.
- 4:36Speaker 2: You go to to take to a climb.
- 4:40Speaker 1: And like you always calculate, Okay, it's it's these objective
- 4:44Speaker 1: things like it can be avalanche or it can be
- 4:46Speaker 1: like a cerec falling or crevass or like the technical
- 4:50Speaker 1: skills you need and then you decide if you are yeah,
- 4:54Speaker 1: if you can do it or not. But then it's
- 4:56Speaker 1: something a feeling that sometimes times like you say I
- 5:00Speaker 1: can do that, but I don't feel for it right,
- 5:02Speaker 1: and other times is like okay, I feel that it's
- 5:05Speaker 1: I'm in the flow and I can do all this,
- 5:08Speaker 1: So it's uh, yeah, I think it's many things that
- 5:11Speaker 1: affect that and probably like having a baby can change that.
- 5:17Speaker 1: But then I have friends that they have babies and
- 5:18Speaker 1: they continue doing the same. So I think I will
- 5:20Speaker 1: need to discover when it comes.
- 5:22Speaker 3: Yeah, I think you'll know when it has. It's hard
- 5:24Speaker 3: to anticipate, as somebody who has four kids. It's hard
- 5:26Speaker 3: to anticipate beforehand, but then when the event occurs, there's
- 5:31Speaker 3: something that changes, I think in your in your I
- 5:34Speaker 3: don't know, your emotional being or your you know, your
- 5:36Speaker 3: sense of self that that like everything that you do
- 5:39Speaker 3: has an impact on this other person. Like when you're
- 5:42Speaker 3: talking about risk calculation, it's very much an internal It
- 5:47Speaker 3: sounds like you're just calculating this internally, like how do
- 5:50Speaker 3: I feel, how do I feel like I can you
- 5:52Speaker 3: know whether I can handle this or not. But then
- 5:56Speaker 3: in the back of your mind thinking well, there's this
- 5:57Speaker 3: other person who's relying on me. I'm I'm curious as
- 6:01Speaker 3: to whether that will impact that or maybe not. I
- 6:04Speaker 3: don't know.
- 6:05Speaker 2: Yeah, it's it's it's very interesting, I think because like.
- 6:10Speaker 1: When you yeah, you said like we don't know like
- 6:12Speaker 1: how it will affect and because it's because it's a feeling.
- 6:15Speaker 1: It's not like saying okay, we'll have a key, so
- 6:17Speaker 1: like I will not do that or I will do that,
- 6:22Speaker 1: because you don't know how you will feel. And at
- 6:25Speaker 1: the end, like you can calculate and take original well
- 6:30Speaker 1: decision of doing a thing, but then the feeling it
- 6:33Speaker 1: will say someday.
- 6:33Speaker 2: Like no, like it's it looks so cool, I need
- 6:36Speaker 2: to go there, even if it's this.
- 6:39Speaker 1: Yeah, this possibility of our RESI you anyway need to
- 6:43Speaker 1: go and yeah, yeah I think I will, Yeah, I
- 6:46Speaker 1: will see Yeah baisser people sell or not that's it's
- 6:58Speaker 1: you're the the or no.
- 7:04Speaker 2: Cordas fixass de.
- 7:10Speaker 1: Sisions your soul since the un personal kambas Avaloso Alfred
- 7:18Speaker 1: is there intas all maxim Ala still alb un those
- 7:29Speaker 1: conditions the alien.
- 7:33Speaker 3: M within the world of multi sport and endurance and
- 7:46Speaker 3: ultra endurance. I mean, everybody knows who you are, they
- 7:50Speaker 3: know your accomplishments, but there's a lot of people that
- 7:52Speaker 3: listen to this that that don't necessarily come from that world,
- 7:55Speaker 3: but perhaps they became familiar with you because of the
- 8:00Speaker 3: Everest expedition that you went on in twenty seventeen. So
- 8:05Speaker 3: can we talk about that a little bit? Yeah for sure,
- 8:07Speaker 3: yeahh I mean that made headlines across the world in
- 8:11Speaker 3: a five or six day period. You summited it twice,
- 8:16Speaker 3: So I want to walk through that. But maybe even
- 8:20Speaker 3: before that specifically, how did you prepare for that? How
- 8:26Speaker 3: did you wrap your head around getting ready to do
- 8:30Speaker 3: something like that? And what was it that you were
- 8:32Speaker 3: seeking to accomplish.
- 8:35Speaker 1: Well, I think the preparation it's like a long one
- 8:40Speaker 1: and a short one. I would say the long one.
- 8:42Speaker 1: It starts like very very long time ago, when I
- 8:44Speaker 1: was like probably years three or two years old. So
- 8:47Speaker 1: like I think, it's not that you decid, Okay, next week,
- 8:50Speaker 1: I want to go to Everest and what they do,
- 8:54Speaker 1: or like next month or next year, but like you
- 8:56Speaker 1: need to have a background or like a long period
- 9:00Speaker 1: of training before before being.
- 9:02Speaker 2: Able to do some things.
- 9:04Speaker 1: It's like when you raise, Like it's not that you
- 9:07Speaker 1: decide okay one to one like Western Stage or hard
- 9:10Speaker 1: rock and you start preparing and the month after you
- 9:14Speaker 1: were able. But I was starting when I was kid
- 9:18Speaker 1: to go to the mountains and to start to do
- 9:20Speaker 1: like long days out then racing. So it was like
- 9:25Speaker 1: during I has been training for more than fifteen years,
- 9:29Speaker 1: Like yeah, the last fifteen years I has been training
- 9:32Speaker 1: at least one thousand hours a year, So that's like
- 9:36Speaker 1: the background.
- 9:37Speaker 2: And then on top of that, during the last.
- 9:42Speaker 1: The last two months before going to Everest, it was
- 9:46Speaker 1: more specific preparations. So actually the the different thing compared
- 9:54Speaker 1: to only endurance training or like more technical climbs. It
- 9:58Speaker 1: was to prepare to be really confident and to be
- 10:02Speaker 1: really comfortable in situations that you are not supposed to
- 10:05Speaker 1: be comfortable.
- 10:06Speaker 4: Yeah.
- 10:07Speaker 2: So for example, like I was, Okay, if.
- 10:12Speaker 1: Some problem arrives up there, I will be by myself
- 10:15Speaker 1: and I will have not any help. So I need
- 10:20Speaker 1: to be able to take the good decisions and for that,
- 10:23Speaker 1: like I was going to train home and to do
- 10:26Speaker 1: very long days like sometimes like fifteen twenty or more
- 10:30Speaker 1: hours alone, and in some situations that they were a
- 10:34Speaker 1: bit risky like that, I needed to be always intentioned
- 10:37Speaker 1: for avalanche or for things, and to put myself in
- 10:41Speaker 1: the really like limit on my technical skills to be
- 10:47Speaker 1: always in this yeah tension situation and to be able
- 10:51Speaker 1: to take decisions on a reasonable way and not to
- 10:55Speaker 1: let the motion to interfect on dat ya Right.
- 11:00Speaker 3: On some level, it's a natural progression of everything that
- 11:02Speaker 3: you've been doing your whole life, since you were three
- 11:04Speaker 3: years old, since as long as you can remember. Like
- 11:07Speaker 3: I think there was a quote where somebody said, how
- 11:09Speaker 3: long did it take you to prepare? And you're like, well,
- 11:10Speaker 3: my whole life, right, this is your life. Yeah, And
- 11:14Speaker 3: as somebody who's been training, you know, on thy twelve
- 11:17Speaker 3: hundred hours in the mountains, you know, per year for many, many,
- 11:22Speaker 3: many years.
- 11:24Speaker 4: It seemed to make sense.
- 11:25Speaker 3: It's the culminating point of this you know, summits of
- 11:28Speaker 3: my life thing that you were doing. But I would
- 11:31Speaker 3: imagine there were specific things around a client, like you're
- 11:34Speaker 3: somebody who who I mean, you have a you're resting
- 11:38Speaker 3: heart rate's like thirty four or something like that. You
- 11:40Speaker 3: have a crazy VO two max like ninety.
- 11:42Speaker 4: Two, right, twenty twelve. I mean for perspective, like.
- 11:46Speaker 3: I think Lance Armstrong's was eighty five, Like it's crazy high.
- 11:49Speaker 3: So you have these, you know, these these perhaps genetic
- 11:54Speaker 3: or created gifts that have that are a result.
- 11:57Speaker 4: Of the training that you've done and your upbringing.
- 12:00Speaker 3: But there are also I would imagine specific things that
- 12:03Speaker 3: you had to do to get ready for acclimatizing, even
- 12:07Speaker 3: though you acclimatize better than most people. And I think
- 12:10Speaker 3: I read you you were training with like oxygen deprivation
- 12:14Speaker 3: or like masks on on the bike and on the
- 12:16Speaker 3: treadmill and things like that to try to expedite your
- 12:19Speaker 3: ability to acclimate once you got there.
- 12:23Speaker 1: Yeah, Well, well, as you said, acclimatization is something very
- 12:27Speaker 1: important before expedition, especially like the goal of the of
- 12:33Speaker 1: the whole thing it was to try like to to
- 12:36Speaker 1: don't spend too much time in the mountain, like in
- 12:39Speaker 1: the travel. First for two things, because I like to
- 12:43Speaker 1: do many things so like racing and climbing and skiing,
- 12:47Speaker 1: So I then want to spend like three four months in.
- 12:51Speaker 2: A base camp like just sitting right.
- 12:53Speaker 1: And then because like I think, if you arrive acclimatized
- 12:58Speaker 1: in a mountain, like you are fresher like mentally, so
- 13:04Speaker 1: you keep the motivation and also you are physically stronger
- 13:10Speaker 1: because you came from home. You have been eating well,
- 13:13Speaker 1: it's not like you are in a base camp jazz
- 13:15Speaker 1: eating fire rice like for two months.
- 13:18Speaker 2: And then like so the goal was.
- 13:21Speaker 1: To arrive in the mountain already clematize. And for that
- 13:27Speaker 1: I have been doing the last five years different expeditions
- 13:32Speaker 1: and trying different things. Most of them didn't work, and
- 13:36Speaker 1: this year I think we finally get what worked. And
- 13:41Speaker 1: actually it was like home. Before the partying. We were
- 13:45Speaker 1: spending like around three hundred hours in altitude, so both
- 13:49Speaker 1: sleeping like in the night, we were sleeping in a
- 13:52Speaker 1: hypoxic code and at six thousand meters and then during
- 13:58Speaker 1: the days, in the morning I doing my normal training
- 14:01Speaker 1: like five to ten hours in the mountain, and in
- 14:03Speaker 1: the afternoon I was doing like one hour every day
- 14:07Speaker 1: very intense, like I will say, like in the in
- 14:13Speaker 1: the dresshole or like even higher like anaerobic intervals during
- 14:17Speaker 1: one hour at six thousand meters elevation.
- 14:21Speaker 4: And could you feel the difference when you got there?
- 14:23Speaker 3: Did you feel like you had, you know, expedited the
- 14:26Speaker 3: process of being comfortable at that kind of altitude.
- 14:29Speaker 2: Yeah, it was.
- 14:30Speaker 1: It was cool because like normally the first day you
- 14:32Speaker 1: arrived at six thousand meters coming from from Europe, you
- 14:38Speaker 1: arrive in the mountains and like you see.
- 14:40Speaker 2: Like okay, yeah, I feel like shit. At that time.
- 14:43Speaker 1: It was like at six thousand meters first day we
- 14:45Speaker 1: were able to run, and like three days after coming
- 14:48Speaker 1: to Tibet we were able to climb to seven thousand
- 14:51Speaker 1: meters and feeling good. So it was a huge difference,
- 14:54Speaker 1: I think to feel like riveritized for six thousand yeaheah.
- 14:56Speaker 3: So for most people that attempted everest, there's a period
- 15:01Speaker 3: of weeks where they're kind of inching their way up
- 15:03Speaker 3: and getting used to it and all of that so
- 15:05Speaker 3: that they can be as safe as possible for the summit.
- 15:08Speaker 3: And you're compressing that into literally a number of days.
- 15:12Speaker 3: And so how long were you there before You're like, Okay,
- 15:15Speaker 3: you know, tonight's going to be the night.
- 15:18Speaker 1: Yeah, Like we were actually before going to Everest, Like
- 15:22Speaker 1: I fly from Europe with Emily and we were going
- 15:27Speaker 1: to show you that it's a mountain just by the
- 15:29Speaker 1: side a thousand meters summit. So we were going there
- 15:33Speaker 1: and we spend like ten days in show you and
- 15:37Speaker 1: then so I reach it. I don't think the summit,
- 15:41Speaker 1: but the summit plateau, so around eight two hundred meters
- 15:46Speaker 1: and then I was driving to average based country just
- 15:50Speaker 1: like a couple of hours from there, and then it
- 15:53Speaker 1: took like one week to feel ready. So I would
- 15:56Speaker 1: say like between two to three week period is where
- 16:01Speaker 1: like if you are accrematized from home like unit.
- 16:03Speaker 3: Right and right beforehand, I like running up you know,
- 16:08Speaker 3: a thousand meters a sense, like an under an hour,
- 16:12Speaker 3: like getting ready, Like people are like, what are you doing?
- 16:17Speaker 1: Yeah, Like I think, like it's it's cool to do things,
- 16:22Speaker 1: and especially live in based camp, it's very very boring,
- 16:25Speaker 1: Like you are sitting in a wonderful place, like you
- 16:28Speaker 1: have beautiful mountains all around, and you are sitting in
- 16:31Speaker 1: a tent doing nothing, Like that's.
- 16:33Speaker 2: Not like what I want to do.
- 16:35Speaker 1: Yeah, no, so like, okay, you need to rest, Like
- 16:39Speaker 1: like the year before, I wanted to do everything, like
- 16:44Speaker 1: everything every day, so I was doing a lot every
- 16:46Speaker 1: day and then like after one week, I was completely destroyed. Right,
- 16:50Speaker 1: so this is okay, I say, okay, I will need
- 16:52Speaker 1: to rest a bit, but we figure out like one
- 16:54Speaker 1: day resting, one day activity, it's enough. So yeah, they
- 16:58Speaker 1: like it was a one day off and the the
- 17:00Speaker 1: other day, like you could, like if you are well acclimatized,
- 17:03Speaker 1: like I think going up to eight thousand meters, it's
- 17:06Speaker 1: it's not this hard, like and you can run up
- 17:09Speaker 1: or like.
- 17:10Speaker 2: You can walk slowly up and run down kind of
- 17:13Speaker 2: but it's fine.
- 17:14Speaker 3: Yeah, And so the first attempt, you decide to start
- 17:18Speaker 3: at like fifty one hundred meters, right, yeah, which is
- 17:21Speaker 3: lower than where most people start. Yeah normally temple right.
- 17:27Speaker 1: Yeah, normally people like a start from the like the
- 17:30Speaker 1: the final push that it takes a few days from
- 17:34Speaker 1: ABC advance based come that that's at at the feet
- 17:38Speaker 1: of the mountain at six thousand, three hundred meters, But
- 17:42Speaker 1: actually to get there, it's a long, long hike. It's
- 17:46Speaker 1: like maybe thirteen miles and from Rome book it's where
- 17:53Speaker 1: the road ends, like it's it's a road that finished there.
- 17:57Speaker 1: So I wanted to like the goal of the of
- 17:59Speaker 1: the whole expedition, it was not to set f KT
- 18:03Speaker 1: in the mountain because like it's you cannot talk about
- 18:07Speaker 1: f KT in these high mountains because conditions and style
- 18:12Speaker 1: make huge difference. So it was mostly to try to
- 18:16Speaker 1: go from the last village to the Sumitan bag and
- 18:20Speaker 1: only with Yeah, my means like acquiring all the gear
- 18:24Speaker 1: I needed and not having any assistance, because then I
- 18:29Speaker 1: wanted to know if I was able to climb the
- 18:31Speaker 1: mountain by myself or if I wasn't.
- 18:34Speaker 3: Right, So there's a there's the spirit behind all of
- 18:37Speaker 3: this is a sense of purity like that infuses everything
- 18:42Speaker 3: that you do, which is first of all, like cannot
- 18:45Speaker 3: be done. It cannot be done without all of the gear,
- 18:47Speaker 3: Like how how minimal can this be accomplished? Right, just
- 18:52Speaker 3: with man and mountain and nothing else.
- 18:56Speaker 1: Yeah, Like I think like as animals are a mammal,
- 19:01Speaker 1: and we are very bad adapted animal to the mountains,
- 19:06Speaker 1: like because like as you see, like you can see
- 19:10Speaker 1: like the fastest men on earth, like Husay in Bold
- 19:13Speaker 1: he runs like around forty kilometers an hour four hundred
- 19:17Speaker 1: meters and that's probably like what the cow can run.
- 19:21Speaker 1: So like we are very far not a fast animal.
- 19:23Speaker 1: And if you see the mountains like you we were
- 19:26Speaker 1: in the parlor in Tibet and you see the yaks
- 19:29Speaker 1: and like we are there like with down jackets, and
- 19:32Speaker 1: we need to eat a lot to keep fitness and altitude.
- 19:35Speaker 1: And you see this yak that is staying there for weeks.
- 19:38Speaker 1: He eats one time a week, like just a hand
- 19:42Speaker 1: of grass. He's not drinking anything. He's not called you
- 19:46Speaker 1: a yeah, no, I am very far from there. So
- 19:49Speaker 1: like so like we need to have some gear, We
- 19:52Speaker 1: need to have some that but to try to get
- 19:55Speaker 1: as close as we are as an animal to climb.
- 19:58Speaker 3: Yeah, and all right, so the first attempt from fifty
- 20:02Speaker 3: one hundred meters, you make it to the summit and
- 20:06Speaker 3: back down twenty six hours.
- 20:08Speaker 2: Up, twenty six hours.
- 20:10Speaker 3: Twenty six hours, okay, and no ropes, no supplemental oxygen, unbelievable.
- 20:19Speaker 4: Like what was the hardest part of that for you?
- 20:23Speaker 1: Well, Like, the hardest thing in the first lesson is
- 20:27Speaker 1: that I feel like I had a stomach problems.
- 20:30Speaker 4: Yeah, you ate something bad?
- 20:32Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah, Like I eat something bad probably the day before,
- 20:38Speaker 2: like in the bay came.
- 20:39Speaker 1: So at the beginning, I was feeling okay for a
- 20:42Speaker 1: few hours, but then I started to have like diarrhea
- 20:47Speaker 1: and vomiting, so I decided to stop eating to avoid that.
- 20:51Speaker 1: But then like energy goes low. So like during the
- 20:55Speaker 1: last hours to the summit, it was very, very slow.
- 20:59Speaker 2: And it's not like it's not hard in a way that.
- 21:06Speaker 1: Up there, Like it's more like only two decisions, Like
- 21:09Speaker 1: you are saying, okay, is this gonna kill me? And
- 21:12Speaker 1: if it's yes, then you turn and if it's not,
- 21:15Speaker 1: then you continue.
- 21:16Speaker 3: So like I want to bail when your stomach's turning
- 21:18Speaker 3: on you and say, look, I'll just do this, you know,
- 21:21Speaker 3: I'll go reboot and do it again another day. Like
- 21:24Speaker 3: that decision to continue put, I mean, were you too
- 21:27Speaker 3: far into it? What was the decision to pross?
- 21:30Speaker 1: Yeah? Mostly it's like it's very long, like from rombook
- 21:34Speaker 1: until you get to the mountains, like it's these thirteen
- 21:36Speaker 1: miles in the moraine.
- 21:38Speaker 2: It's it's painful, like it's it's not fun.
- 21:40Speaker 1: So then I was there and it was like almost
- 21:43Speaker 1: when I decide, Okay, now it will be hard, I
- 21:47Speaker 1: was yeah, yeah that's and then I was at a
- 21:50Speaker 1: thousand meters so it's like.
- 21:51Speaker 2: Okay, should I go all the way.
- 21:53Speaker 1: Back and start it again like a couple of days
- 21:55Speaker 1: or like anyway, Like I'm here, it's I will go slow,
- 21:59Speaker 1: but I will not die, and somehow it will be
- 22:02Speaker 1: some fun, so why not to continue?
- 22:05Speaker 2: And yeah.
- 22:07Speaker 4: Fun for you?
- 22:08Speaker 2: Yeah yeah, it's a special fun. Yeah yeah, so you
- 22:11Speaker 2: do that.
- 22:12Speaker 3: But then I presume, because of that stomach illness or
- 22:17Speaker 3: a sense of knowing that you could do it faster
- 22:20Speaker 3: or better, you make this decision to go once again.
- 22:23Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 22:24Speaker 3: It was.
- 22:26Speaker 1: It was funny, like it was going down from the
- 22:29Speaker 1: first summit, and during the downhill, I was thinking, okay,
- 22:33Speaker 1: like we still have like five days still the plane
- 22:35Speaker 1: leaves from LASA to home, so we had some extra
- 22:39Speaker 1: days in the base.
- 22:39Speaker 2: Come, it's nothing to do in the base.
- 22:41Speaker 1: Come, so instead of like packing during one week, like
- 22:46Speaker 1: it was like I was thinking, okay, why not you
- 22:49Speaker 1: try to go up again.
- 22:51Speaker 2: Not for the doing a fast time.
- 22:54Speaker 1: Because I knew that I will be very tie yet
- 22:56Speaker 1: after this first essel, but also it would be it
- 23:00Speaker 1: started to interest like if it would be possible to
- 23:03Speaker 1: recover fast and to see how the recovery affects and
- 23:06Speaker 1: to see if it was possible.
- 23:08Speaker 3: Yeah, And from what I understand is, you know, being
- 23:12Speaker 3: somebody who has never attempted anything like that, but people
- 23:15Speaker 3: who really understand this, that's the most miraculous aspect of
- 23:20Speaker 3: all of this, which is that it generally takes somebody
- 23:24Speaker 3: weeks to kind of recover from an experience like that
- 23:28Speaker 3: before they're prepared or physiologically ready to attempt another summit.
- 23:34Speaker 3: But just literally days later, you decide to go again.
- 23:38Speaker 3: And I think it speaks to your natural ability.
- 23:40Speaker 4: To recover more quickly than the average human being on
- 23:44Speaker 4: some level.
- 23:45Speaker 3: But also like, what is that Like do you just
- 23:48Speaker 3: felt like internally you did a gut check and you're like,
- 23:51Speaker 3: I'll be fine, I feel good.
- 23:55Speaker 1: Yeah, I think it was I fell okay, like you
- 24:02Speaker 1: feel tyet, but it's like, okay, yeah, I can move.
- 24:05Speaker 1: So But mostly I think the recovery it's because we
- 24:13Speaker 1: had then been long in the mountain. So like as
- 24:16Speaker 1: I said before, like with the first acclimatization and with
- 24:20Speaker 1: the being like short travels, like we were there and
- 24:23Speaker 1: I was still fresh on kind of like motivation and
- 24:26Speaker 1: like healthy, like strong, and in the other side, like
- 24:32Speaker 1: I never slept high in the mountain, Like all the
- 24:34Speaker 1: nights I spent it was always maximum it was six
- 24:39Speaker 1: three hundred meters, So like not sleeping high it makes
- 24:44Speaker 1: a big impact for the recovery. Then you need to
- 24:46Speaker 1: be able to go to the summit like from so
- 24:49Speaker 1: do a long elevation from six thousand meters, so it's
- 24:52Speaker 1: it's very long days, but it's good nights.
- 24:55Speaker 2: So that makes us so good for recovery.
- 24:57Speaker 1: And yeah, like during this on us on like I
- 25:01Speaker 1: was feeling uh diet like normally, but it was I
- 25:07Speaker 1: think it was better that what I expected, Like I
- 25:09Speaker 1: was able.
- 25:10Speaker 2: To kind of walk.
- 25:11Speaker 3: Was there anybody in your your contingent, your group of
- 25:14Speaker 3: people who who pulled you aside and said maybe you
- 25:17Speaker 3: should wait a little bit longer.
- 25:20Speaker 4: Or do they just trust you that you know yourself well?
- 25:23Speaker 1: Like these group of people, it was only one person
- 25:26Speaker 1: that yeah, it was it. So it was a seventh ask.
- 25:30Speaker 4: So that was it was filmmaker, the filmmaker.
- 25:33Speaker 2: Yeah, it just yeah, it was human and me.
- 25:36Speaker 1: And the good thing is like we didn't have like
- 25:39Speaker 1: kind of much internet or anything or sat phone, so
- 25:43Speaker 1: it was like I was only just sending like uh
- 25:46Speaker 1: maybe every few days, like a message to my team
- 25:50Speaker 1: or my family saying okay, everything is okay, we are
- 25:53Speaker 1: we are good.
- 25:53Speaker 2: So we didn't have much input.
- 25:55Speaker 4: Now we have more people with you here today than yeah.
- 25:58Speaker 3: Absolutely, And that second time up, the conditions were worse, right,
- 26:03Speaker 3: there was snowing and windyer.
- 26:07Speaker 1: Yeah, it was supposed to be the best day in
- 26:11Speaker 1: the summer or in the spring, like all the like
- 26:15Speaker 1: big groups like Adrian Blinger they were climbing the that day.
- 26:23Speaker 2: Also like the the Swiss Expedition.
- 26:27Speaker 1: Cory carry Color they were climbing this so they were
- 26:30Speaker 1: saying that the day it's marked to be the best
- 26:33Speaker 1: one on the on the season.
- 26:35Speaker 2: So I was saying, okay, that's that's cool.
- 26:37Speaker 1: Yeah, And then we started climbing on the the bad
- 26:43Speaker 1: weather was coming faster than than supposed and because I
- 26:48Speaker 1: didn't have any radio or any kind of communication with
- 26:54Speaker 1: the others, they could not tell me.
- 26:57Speaker 2: And then like I saw like it was okay, the
- 27:00Speaker 2: sky is a bit more wide, but it was windy,
- 27:04Speaker 2: but not that bad, like it's not wind that it
- 27:08Speaker 2: throws you away the face.
- 27:10Speaker 4: So yeah, right, and so you sum it.
- 27:15Speaker 3: And this time you started from advanced base camp, right,
- 27:17Speaker 3: so that was like sixty five hundred.
- 27:19Speaker 2: Yeah this time.
- 27:20Speaker 1: Yeah, Actually after the first summit, I was going down
- 27:23Speaker 1: to the base camp. Then actually we lost yeah or yeah,
- 27:30Speaker 1: no that that the second time. But yeah, after the
- 27:33Speaker 1: first time, we were packing everything to get ready for
- 27:35Speaker 1: leaving last week because I knew, okay, if I go
- 27:37Speaker 1: back to the submit, like it will be super speed
- 27:40Speaker 1: after so we pack everything and then we went up
- 27:44Speaker 1: to ABC to sixteen hundred and then we didn't have
- 27:48Speaker 1: any tend there, but it was Alpenglow that they had
- 27:52Speaker 1: an expedition there and they were up in the mountain
- 27:55Speaker 1: so we could sleep in their dinning room.
- 27:57Speaker 2: And then I started from from there.
- 28:00Speaker 3: Yeah.
- 28:01Speaker 2: Then going down, I get lost from the mountain.
- 28:03Speaker 3: That was kind of fun to yeah, yeah, and you
- 28:06Speaker 3: end up perilously close to that North Face ridge right
- 28:11Speaker 3: the drop off.
- 28:14Speaker 2: Yeah, it was.
- 28:16Speaker 1: It was strange, like I think, like now, like I
- 28:21Speaker 1: has been talking with a lot of doctors and start
- 28:23Speaker 1: to understand why I had. I had a blackout period
- 28:26Speaker 1: during a few minutes. So actually I was climbing and
- 28:30Speaker 1: it was fine. It was windy, so like the trucks
- 28:33Speaker 1: and it was covered. Like even like in spring climbing,
- 28:38Speaker 1: you cannot talk about alpine style because even if I
- 28:41Speaker 1: wasn't using the fixed ropes, like it's it's the second
- 28:45Speaker 1: letter or the third letter in the second step that
- 28:47Speaker 1: I use it, and then it's the fixed ropes there.
- 28:50Speaker 1: So like even if you don't use it, like it's
- 28:53Speaker 1: easy to follow the way because they are there. But
- 28:57Speaker 1: during the second ason with all the bad weather, like
- 29:02Speaker 1: it was snowing a lot and windy, so all the
- 29:06Speaker 1: ropes and all the trucks were covered. But that was okay,
- 29:09Speaker 1: And in the way down I remember very well, like
- 29:14Speaker 1: until I reached the eighty three hundred meters, but from
- 29:18Speaker 1: there I have like a blackout period.
- 29:20Speaker 2: I don't know what it happened, and you never.
- 29:22Speaker 4: Know how you got there.
- 29:23Speaker 3: Like I think you said you thought you were going
- 29:24Speaker 3: to wake up from a dream and be a base camp.
- 29:27Speaker 1: Yeah yeah, because from there, like the next memory was
- 29:31Speaker 1: like I was downclimbing something technical in a big face.
- 29:36Speaker 1: I'm I was not anymore in a ridge where I
- 29:38Speaker 1: was supposed to be, but in a big face, snowy rocky.
- 29:42Speaker 2: It's like where I am? What I'm doing here?
- 29:47Speaker 1: It's this dream because I didn't have any connection with
- 29:49Speaker 1: the last memory, so I didn't know if it was
- 29:52Speaker 1: reality or if it was a bad dream. And I
- 29:54Speaker 1: was going to wake up in the base cap and yeah,
- 29:58Speaker 1: the bad or the worst thing. It was like, I
- 30:00Speaker 1: didn't know where I was, so I didn't know if
- 30:03Speaker 1: I was in the northeast face or in the north
- 30:05Speaker 1: face or in the south face. So it was like, Okay,
- 30:08Speaker 1: in the middle of the night's bad weather, I'm in
- 30:10Speaker 1: a phase and either I have no absolutely no idea.
- 30:13Speaker 3: Well, how do you keep it together? How do you
- 30:15Speaker 3: avoid panicking? How do you avoid you know, your emotions
- 30:19Speaker 3: getting the best of you when you're in a moment
- 30:21Speaker 3: like that.
- 30:22Speaker 1: Yeah, I think that's that's what you need to prepare
- 30:27Speaker 1: for and to feel, as I said before, feel confident
- 30:30Speaker 1: in situations that you are not supposed to be confident,
- 30:33Speaker 1: and to be comfortable. It's exactly these kind of situations,
- 30:36Speaker 1: and I think it's it's just to really accept and
- 30:42Speaker 1: to mentally accept before going to an expedition what you
- 30:47Speaker 1: can find there, and to not be surprised when the
- 30:50Speaker 1: situations right because they are possible.
- 30:53Speaker 2: And I think when I was there, it was like
- 30:58Speaker 2: it was more like a checking saying okay, I.
- 31:01Speaker 1: Am called No, I will not die because I will
- 31:05Speaker 1: have like froze bibes or like hypothermia. I didn't feel
- 31:10Speaker 1: any dema like a brain demo or like them as well.
- 31:13Speaker 1: I was saying, okay, this is okay, this is okay.
- 31:16Speaker 1: The only problem is that the night and I don't
- 31:20Speaker 1: know where it is. But I will not die because
- 31:22Speaker 1: it's night, and I will not die because I don't
- 31:24Speaker 1: know where I am. So then I was like, okay,
- 31:27Speaker 1: I just need to figure out these two things. Like
- 31:30Speaker 1: the night, it is like you wait until it's die
- 31:33Speaker 1: light so you can see where you are. And then
- 31:35Speaker 1: it was mostly to know that, and I was physically
- 31:40Speaker 1: feeling good, so I was thinking, okay, I'm at a
- 31:42Speaker 1: thousand meters At that time, I was between eight thousand,
- 31:46Speaker 1: two hundred and eight thousand meters. I will say, okay,
- 31:49Speaker 1: if I'm by, I don't know how in the south face,
- 31:53Speaker 1: and I need to climb up again. To a thousand,
- 31:56Speaker 1: five hundred. It will be hard, but I feel like
- 31:58Speaker 1: physically okay to do it, So I wasn't afraid of like.
- 32:03Speaker 2: Need to go up again or to Yeah.
- 32:06Speaker 3: So it's like really to compartmentalize all of these things
- 32:09Speaker 3: and be as logical as possible and not let your
- 32:12Speaker 3: emotions or any fear creep into how you're making those decisions.
- 32:16Speaker 1: Yeah, I think emotions upin high mountains are are dangerous
- 32:22Speaker 1: and it can be fair like if you panic in
- 32:25Speaker 1: a situation like.
- 32:25Speaker 2: That, probably the mistakes and then you fall.
- 32:29Speaker 1: But also like before you're like if you are summitting
- 32:31Speaker 1: and in the summit, like you start to have like
- 32:35Speaker 1: adrenaline and you start to feel wow, that's gone and
- 32:38Speaker 1: unlike excitement, then probably during the downhill, like you will
- 32:41Speaker 1: do mistakes because you don't take care. So I think
- 32:44Speaker 1: both good and bad emotions up there, Like any emotion
- 32:49Speaker 1: is bad in a yeah, in normal Yeah.
- 32:51Speaker 3: So that's something I would imagine you've just learned over
- 32:54Speaker 3: the many years of just always being in the mountains
- 32:56Speaker 3: and being in countless situations where risk is a huge factor.
- 33:02Speaker 1: Yeah, more or yeah, we learn a lot of mistakes.
- 33:05Speaker 1: I would say I'm doing mistakes, having accidents or doing
- 33:10Speaker 1: stupid things we all do, and these situations that you
- 33:15Speaker 1: when you come home it's like, wow, today was very
- 33:19Speaker 1: very stupid. And it's there when you learn, when you say, okay,
- 33:22Speaker 1: next time, I need to do better.
- 33:25Speaker 3: Yeah, and your your adventures have not been without some
- 33:29Speaker 3: consequences to some loved ones. I mean, I know you're
- 33:33Speaker 3: out with Emily, you know, outside Shamanee and you have
- 33:37Speaker 3: to be rescued and you've lost a couple of friends.
- 33:40Speaker 3: So I would imagine that does that weigh on you
- 33:43Speaker 3: when you're out there.
- 33:45Speaker 2: Sure, like.
- 33:48Speaker 1: We do an activity that we know that it's possibly
- 33:51Speaker 1: like we can either in the mountain and it's nothing
- 33:54Speaker 1: that we look we are not doing that because the
- 34:00Speaker 1: because we are close to death, but because we are
- 34:03Speaker 1: alive when we're doing But it's the possibility of an accident.
- 34:09Speaker 1: And when you have some close calls, it can be
- 34:14Speaker 1: like yeah, some friends that they die by your side,
- 34:17Speaker 1: or it can be like some accidents.
- 34:19Speaker 2: But all the times, I think it's funny that when
- 34:24Speaker 2: you start to do.
- 34:26Speaker 1: Mountaineering, like you are afraid about your capacities because you
- 34:31Speaker 1: don't know yourself, but you see the mountain as something
- 34:34Speaker 1: solid that it's there, it's like a ball or it's
- 34:38Speaker 1: something and more you go into the mountains less you
- 34:43Speaker 1: are afraid about yourself and you know better your capacity
- 34:45Speaker 1: is your technique, your experience. But you see that the
- 34:49Speaker 1: mountain needs moving and it's danger there that you don't
- 34:53Speaker 1: see that they are there, So you are more afraid
- 34:55Speaker 1: about the mountains. So it's this thing that it's many
- 34:58Speaker 1: things that you cannot control. You can think logically, but
- 35:02Speaker 1: then it avalanches come when it's supposed to not, or
- 35:06Speaker 1: like some rock fallings and things, and you need to
- 35:09Speaker 1: accept in a way that that's part of it, that
- 35:12Speaker 1: it's many things we can control, but it's some of
- 35:15Speaker 1: them that is not possible to do.
- 35:17Speaker 3: Yeah, I mean I look at you as somebody who
- 35:19Speaker 3: despite all of your accomplishments, you know, it's very humble,
- 35:25Speaker 3: like you have a very healthy relationship with humility and
- 35:29Speaker 3: not to project, but I would imagine that comes from
- 35:32Speaker 3: an appreciation and respect for nature, Like you're never going
- 35:35Speaker 3: to beat the mountain, right, And if you don't have
- 35:37Speaker 3: a respect and a healthy level of humility when you're
- 35:41Speaker 3: attempting these challenges, then you're putting yourself in great peril,
- 35:46Speaker 3: so it keeps you like sort of right sized about everything.
- 35:51Speaker 1: Yeah, I think concurring mountains is a very very ironic word.
- 35:56Speaker 1: I think like we are not concurring mountains, like we
- 36:01Speaker 1: can conquer ourselves, and the mountain is where we It's
- 36:05Speaker 1: this big mirror where we see yourself. But we can
- 36:09Speaker 1: never pretend to be fighting against a mountain or to
- 36:15Speaker 1: be fighting against nature because first of all, because we
- 36:18Speaker 1: are part of it, Like we are part of the nature,
- 36:22Speaker 1: so a thing, it's important to pass there lightly so
- 36:29Speaker 1: we can only see your four steps, but we like
- 36:33Speaker 1: leaving no trades is not only like about leaving rubbies,
- 36:36Speaker 1: but it's also about like being accepted by the mountain
- 36:42Speaker 1: or being try Yeah, kind of like being there but
- 36:46Speaker 1: trying to don't aggress the mountain. And I think on
- 36:49Speaker 1: a way, I don't think that if you don't aggress
- 36:52Speaker 1: the mountain it will respect you more. But at least
- 36:56Speaker 1: it keeps you aware of like, Okay, you are really
- 36:59Speaker 1: really not you are very very small even if you
- 37:01Speaker 1: are like and especially because the sports it's so much
- 37:06Speaker 1: about ego and how the sport is organized, Like you
- 37:10Speaker 1: win a race and you are in the top of
- 37:11Speaker 1: a podiume that it's like it's something very artificial, like
- 37:16Speaker 1: why you are better because you run faster than the
- 37:19Speaker 1: guy that is second and one the one is third
- 37:21Speaker 1: or the one is last one. So we'd really like
- 37:24Speaker 1: building kind of this egocentric mindset. House sport is organized
- 37:30Speaker 1: so you can think and it's easy to believe that
- 37:34Speaker 1: you are someone good or that you are better than others,
- 37:38Speaker 1: and especially in mountains, that's very dangerous and at the end,
- 37:43Speaker 1: like it will put in your side like yeah, you
- 37:46Speaker 1: are nothing, right.
- 37:47Speaker 3: Yeah, that's super interesting, you know, and I think impactful
- 37:51Speaker 3: coming from somebody who's I mean, you basically want every
- 37:55Speaker 3: big race that there is to win. You've stood atop
- 37:59Speaker 3: all these PODi ms until there was really no no
- 38:03Speaker 3: challenge left for you to conquer other than it seems
- 38:07Speaker 3: to make perfect sense in retrospect that you would then
- 38:09Speaker 3: go onto the summits of my life experience because just
- 38:14Speaker 3: you and the mountain and you without any fanfare. Well
- 38:17Speaker 3: there's probably some fanfare wherever you go, but but you know,
- 38:21Speaker 3: without the structures and the kind of logistics of of
- 38:24Speaker 3: of racing to be able to just go out on
- 38:26Speaker 3: these mountains and and make it as pure as possible
- 38:28Speaker 3: and see how fast you can go up and back
- 38:31Speaker 3: and have that experience just for yourself.
- 38:35Speaker 2: Some meeds of my life bas projected the son projected.
- 38:54Speaker 1: Some megs of my life is a pendra is via ja.
- 39:00Speaker 1: It seems manida yoga rapid. It sustems you know, basic.
- 39:09Speaker 1: I mean perhaps Montagne issue are moana. I normally like solitude,
- 39:21Speaker 1: and I like, uh yeah, kind of like being alone,
- 39:26Speaker 1: being alone with with mountains. It's it makes sense on
- 39:30Speaker 1: the way that it's this feeling, like this feeling or
- 39:34Speaker 1: feeling very small. It's it's really interesting, I think, and
- 39:37Speaker 1: and facing yourself. And of course in racings you can
- 39:41Speaker 1: find great challenges because like racing at the end, like
- 39:46Speaker 1: at the beginning, it was like a pure competition motivation
- 39:50Speaker 1: like I want to win the race or I want
- 39:52Speaker 1: to became world champion or or or whatever, and that
- 39:56Speaker 1: really drives me to achieve that. And I think it's
- 39:59Speaker 1: a very resting process because having this goal in mind
- 40:03Speaker 1: you put so much effort, Like it's it's easy to
- 40:06Speaker 1: train very hard if you have this.
- 40:08Speaker 2: Goal in mind.
- 40:09Speaker 1: But at the end, like when you achieve the goal,
- 40:12Speaker 1: it's like the satisfaction, it's it's a second, but then
- 40:16Speaker 1: it's like okay, what next, And of course like doing
- 40:20Speaker 1: the same process is not as exciting. But actually I
- 40:24Speaker 1: think now and now racing it's it's cool because it
- 40:30Speaker 1: gives me like both like a motivation to train hard,
- 40:35Speaker 1: to do some kind of trainings, like seeing young people
- 40:37Speaker 1: that it's going very fast like and wanted to beat them.
- 40:42Speaker 1: It's like what maybe sometimes when I'm training, like it
- 40:45Speaker 1: gives me this like more yeah, motivation to push a
- 40:49Speaker 1: bit more at the bottom. And then it's also good check.
- 40:52Speaker 1: It's like if you are racing and you are doing
- 40:55Speaker 1: good performances, it means that you are in okay shape.
- 40:59Speaker 1: So I think that that's important after for going to
- 41:03Speaker 1: mountaineering because it means that I'm keeping good in good shape,
- 41:08Speaker 1: and then that I can use the racing shape for
- 41:11Speaker 1: going to mountains. But there I know that at the end,
- 41:15Speaker 1: like I will be by myself and it's only yeah,
- 41:19Speaker 1: a fight against yourself. Yeah.
- 41:21Speaker 3: Well, a couple interesting things about your training and you're
- 41:24Speaker 3: racing and your preparation.
- 41:27Speaker 4: You don't have a coach. You haven't had a coach
- 41:29Speaker 4: since you were a kid, right.
- 41:31Speaker 2: Yeah, since since I was seventeen. Years on.
- 41:34Speaker 3: Yet, Yeah, you learn everything there was to learn from
- 41:37Speaker 3: that coach and now you go you go out and
- 41:41Speaker 3: from what I understand, like, you don't really create training plans.
- 41:45Speaker 3: It's more of a this is how I feel today,
- 41:47Speaker 3: and I'm going to go out in the mountains for
- 41:49Speaker 3: two hours or ten hours, or maybe I'll decide when
- 41:52Speaker 3: i'm halfway out there how long I'm going to be
- 41:54Speaker 3: out there.
- 41:56Speaker 2: Yeah, well no it's not that fair.
- 41:58Speaker 4: Yeah no, no, not like so explain.
- 42:01Speaker 1: Yeah, actually, yeah, I was with a coach until I
- 42:06Speaker 1: was seventeen, so I was kind of learning the basics,
- 42:09Speaker 1: like to be methodic and like to follow like kind
- 42:13Speaker 1: of different what it happens when you do these volume
- 42:19Speaker 1: trainings or when you do like short intervals or long intervals.
- 42:22Speaker 1: So I had this basic and then I like to study,
- 42:26Speaker 1: Like I spend a lot of hours every week, like
- 42:30Speaker 1: just reading articles that they come about physiology, that they
- 42:34Speaker 1: come about psychology, that they come about training, looking to
- 42:38Speaker 1: what other people is doing out there, both in climbing
- 42:42Speaker 1: and in other running, but also like in athletics and
- 42:46Speaker 1: in cycling, and so I really like to read these
- 42:51Speaker 1: subjects to understand how the body works and to try things,
- 42:55Speaker 1: and especially I like to try things like to see
- 43:01Speaker 1: how it works. For example, both in training, like for example,
- 43:06Speaker 1: doing thirty thirty like thirty seconds super fast and then
- 43:10Speaker 1: resting thirty seconds like during some periods of time, I
- 43:13Speaker 1: wanted to really push that to the limit. So I
- 43:16Speaker 1: was doing that like as long as possible during like
- 43:19Speaker 1: three hours or like doing that only thirty thirties like
- 43:22Speaker 1: all the time.
- 43:23Speaker 2: Yeah, and then like saying what it was happening in the.
- 43:25Speaker 3: Next week, and in journaling that and writing it down
- 43:28Speaker 3: so you can look back and.
- 43:30Speaker 1: Yeah, I have an Excel with like all the trainings
- 43:34Speaker 1: and all the scripture scenes two thousand and.
- 43:36Speaker 2: Three, So yeah, I memorize everything.
- 43:40Speaker 3: It strikes me as somewhat you strike me it's very
- 43:43Speaker 3: similar to Alex Hanold in your approach and your lifestyle
- 43:47Speaker 3: and this, you know, the purest aspect in what you do.
- 43:50Speaker 4: And I think what gets missed.
- 43:53Speaker 3: In Alex's story maybe not so much now that the
- 43:56Speaker 3: documentary is out, is the rigorous preparation that goes into
- 43:59Speaker 3: his freeze soli climbing.
- 44:01Speaker 4: And it's the same with you.
- 44:03Speaker 3: Like people want to think, well, you're just out there
- 44:05Speaker 3: doing whatever, but you're very methodical in your own way
- 44:09Speaker 3: about how you approach your training and your racing and
- 44:12Speaker 3: the feedback that your body is giving you. I mean
- 44:14Speaker 3: I've read did you create also, like the spreadsheet of
- 44:18Speaker 3: this chronology over the course of history of what's required
- 44:21Speaker 3: to go fast in the mountains? Like you're a student, right,
- 44:24Speaker 3: You're a scholar of the sport and the human in
- 44:27Speaker 3: the human physique.
- 44:28Speaker 1: Yeah, it can be geeks sometimes, and yeah, you have
- 44:30Speaker 1: some friends that are that. No, I think it's interesting
- 44:33Speaker 1: and especially like to understand what has been done before
- 44:38Speaker 1: and to understand what's what's going on. Yeah, studying, I
- 44:43Speaker 1: think is what makes us interest to you. Yeah, like
- 44:49Speaker 1: if we read a lot what's going on and if
- 44:53Speaker 1: something new is it's happening, to understand why and to
- 44:57Speaker 1: understand how and to try to apply that. And I
- 45:00Speaker 1: know that many things I can try or I can read,
- 45:06Speaker 1: like I would not be able to to use by
- 45:11Speaker 1: myself because I have not the capacities. But it's interesting
- 45:15Speaker 1: to try and to see if it's working or not.
- 45:17Speaker 1: And sometimes these, uh, this test or these things can
- 45:22Speaker 1: work on me and other times it can work for
- 45:24Speaker 1: a lot of people.
- 45:25Speaker 2: But it's interesting to.
- 45:27Speaker 3: Tell I yea, what is something that you've changed, like
- 45:31Speaker 3: over the last couple of years and how you approach
- 45:33Speaker 3: your training that was different than what you were doing
- 45:36Speaker 3: maybe I don't know five or six years ago. M M.
- 45:41Speaker 1: I would say that I take a bit more care
- 45:44Speaker 1: about resting today, but that's not fully true because I
- 45:47Speaker 1: don't rest much.
- 45:49Speaker 3: You don't periodize or taper at all from.
- 45:53Speaker 1: But tapering I think like when you say, like, for example,
- 45:57Speaker 1: the marathon aadlyts like ELI or these guys like Day
- 46:01Speaker 1: don't do much dada, like they trained very hard until
- 46:05Speaker 1: last week. But I think like on planning seasons is important,
- 46:11Speaker 1: like to find some some periods. But mostly I would
- 46:15Speaker 1: say like now, I think with the base of the
- 46:19Speaker 1: last fifteen years of training, I'm able to to perform
- 46:25Speaker 1: in an okay level without doing very specific training, so
- 46:30Speaker 1: like only like training average, Like I'm able to do
- 46:33Speaker 1: some good results in long and short distance, but then
- 46:37Speaker 1: it's more about like this specific training, like as I say,
- 46:42Speaker 1: like forever it was the acclimatization, I'm doing this very
- 46:45Speaker 1: hard intensity training for in very high altitude that was
- 46:50Speaker 1: very interesting or like so I think now maybe it's
- 46:54Speaker 1: like I have already the base and during these last years,
- 46:59Speaker 1: is these more Specevic trainings that I can put for
- 47:01Speaker 1: some period that this period can go from one week
- 47:04Speaker 1: to three four weeks, So that's yeah, that's what they change.
- 47:09Speaker 3: But it's not unusual for you to go out and
- 47:12Speaker 3: train seven eight hours in the mountains, and I think
- 47:15Speaker 3: you go like you can go out for seven hours
- 47:18Speaker 3: without even any water, right, You don't bring a lot
- 47:21Speaker 3: of stuff with you. It's not like you're packing a
- 47:23Speaker 3: ton of food and drink. When you did Denali, you
- 47:27Speaker 3: only had like a liter of water for that eleven hours. Yeah,
- 47:31Speaker 3: is that true?
- 47:32Speaker 2: Yeah?
- 47:32Speaker 1: Yeah, no, it's that's the double I have in my
- 47:34Speaker 1: second Neverest because yeah, no, but yeah I don't. Yeah,
- 47:41Speaker 1: I can't train for like ten hours without any water,
- 47:44Speaker 1: right or food?
- 47:46Speaker 3: And I think least has somebody studied that, Like what
- 47:50Speaker 3: is it that allows you to do that? You're just
- 47:52Speaker 3: so efficient.
- 47:53Speaker 1: I think it's years of doing Like I remember like
- 47:56Speaker 1: when we were kids, like maybe seven eight years or
- 48:00Speaker 1: like we work sometimes with my mother to do like
- 48:02Speaker 1: a ten fifteen hours walk and we didn't bring water,
- 48:06Speaker 1: so we were very very thirsty that I think doing that,
- 48:11Speaker 1: Like I don't want people to start now to runt
- 48:14Speaker 1: an hour.
- 48:15Speaker 3: Yeah, this is not advising anyone to do this, but
- 48:18Speaker 3: you started.
- 48:19Speaker 2: But it's important.
- 48:20Speaker 3: When you were a teenager, didn't you try. You tried
- 48:23Speaker 3: to see how many days you could go, like training
- 48:25Speaker 3: without eating. You went five days until you passed out
- 48:28Speaker 3: or something.
- 48:28Speaker 2: Yeah, and that's what I was.
- 48:30Speaker 1: Yeah, that's what they were saying before, Like it's it's
- 48:33Speaker 1: very interesting. No, but it's very interesting to know where
- 48:37Speaker 1: are your limits and to experienced by yourself like that time.
- 48:42Speaker 2: Like it was like many times when you are in
- 48:46Speaker 2: a race and you.
- 48:49Speaker 1: Miss one age station, it's like, okay, I don't have
- 48:52Speaker 1: food and you start to panic wherever. Like it's not
- 48:55Speaker 1: because you miss that that you will lose your race.
- 48:58Speaker 1: And I think, if you know, like when that time,
- 49:02Speaker 1: like I was seventeen years old and I was in
- 49:04Speaker 1: university and I was like far away from the racing season,
- 49:09Speaker 1: so it was like, yeah, why to see how the
- 49:13Speaker 1: body can be fished in different metabolisms and how far away.
- 49:16Speaker 1: So it was very interesting because I stopped eating and
- 49:20Speaker 1: I was training like not a lot, but like the
- 49:22Speaker 1: normal like three between two and four hours in the
- 49:24Speaker 1: morning and one hour in the afternoon, yeah not so much.
- 49:27Speaker 1: Yeah no, but like not very very long day. And
- 49:31Speaker 1: then like the first day, like you are okay, the
- 49:34Speaker 1: second day you are hungry. But actually the endurance is
- 49:39Speaker 1: the same, Like I was able to run almost the
- 49:41Speaker 1: same pace for the four hour run. The only difference
- 49:44Speaker 1: it was like I lose like a power and speed,
- 49:47Speaker 1: like I wasn't able to do a sprint, and this
- 49:50Speaker 1: was keep going. Like the endurance. I almost didn't lose
- 49:53Speaker 1: at all during five days. Then I passed away and yeah,
- 49:57Speaker 1: I was really close to the university, so I wait,
- 50:00Speaker 1: and I was going to do it. But then it's
- 50:02Speaker 1: interesting because you know, okay, until five days, I don't
- 50:06Speaker 1: really need to worry or like I know that the
- 50:08Speaker 1: fat burning or and I think then the body starts
- 50:13Speaker 1: to be also more efficient on how to use energy.
- 50:18Speaker 4: You also cross train quite a bit.
- 50:23Speaker 3: You're skiing all winter, you're mountaineering, You're doing a variety
- 50:26Speaker 3: of different things, and I would presume that keeps you
- 50:31Speaker 3: fresh and keeps you from burning out. You know, you
- 50:33Speaker 3: see a lot of ultra runners who explode on the scene.
- 50:38Speaker 3: They have a season or two in which they're crushing
- 50:40Speaker 3: it and winning races, and then they either overtrain or
- 50:43Speaker 3: they get injured, and then it's very difficult for them
- 50:46Speaker 3: to have a presence at that level once again. And
- 50:48Speaker 3: you've been able to maintain, you know, a consistent presence
- 50:52Speaker 3: at the top for many many years. I mean it
- 50:54Speaker 3: wasn't until like the last year that you even really
- 50:57Speaker 3: had any injuries.
- 50:59Speaker 1: Yeah, yes, you say, it's it's uh, it's interesting to
- 51:04Speaker 1: see how yeah, why how many athletes they born out
- 51:07Speaker 1: after two seasons. And that's very common in ultra running,
- 51:10Speaker 1: and probably because people is training running so so much,
- 51:16Speaker 1: like so many miles every week during during uh like
- 51:21Speaker 1: many years. So I think the mileage there, it really
- 51:25Speaker 1: affects so combining with our activities like it can be
- 51:29Speaker 1: cycling or I do like skin like during six months
- 51:32Speaker 1: like from November to to end of April, I don't
- 51:37Speaker 1: run a same single day.
- 51:38Speaker 2: It's only only.
- 51:39Speaker 1: Skiing, so like doing and urance activities, but that they
- 51:43Speaker 1: are not the same movements and both for the mind
- 51:46Speaker 1: like to change and to be excited to run and
- 51:49Speaker 1: to and for the and for the body like to
- 51:51Speaker 1: use other muscles and other articulations.
- 51:54Speaker 2: It's yeah, it's very healthy.
- 51:55Speaker 3: Yeah, what was it like being injured? Really for the
- 51:59Speaker 3: first time this past year. I mean, you had two
- 52:02Speaker 3: shoulder surgeries and then you broke your fibula, do in
- 52:06Speaker 3: a boot for a while, although you still manage to
- 52:08Speaker 3: get on a bicycle and ride around with a boot
- 52:09Speaker 3: on and do a push up or two.
- 52:12Speaker 2: Yeah. Yeah, No, I think like injuries like the first one.
- 52:17Speaker 2: I really like the shoulder surgery.
- 52:21Speaker 1: It was something I wanted to do, so it was
- 52:23Speaker 1: not like I had an accident on the day after
- 52:25Speaker 1: I stopped, so it was persistant, no, I need to
- 52:29Speaker 1: do One time I was saying, okay, I do now.
- 52:32Speaker 2: So then you enter in a mindset okay, you're doing that.
- 52:35Speaker 1: So I used that time to to read a lot,
- 52:39Speaker 1: so when I was like reading all the this chronology
- 52:42Speaker 1: of things and then like studying also like a lot
- 52:46Speaker 1: of physiology. So it was kind of fast going because
- 52:52Speaker 1: it was things going on and I was prepared for that.
- 52:54Speaker 1: But then for sure the feeble, it was just an accident.
- 52:57Speaker 1: I had a ski accident in a race, So that
- 52:59Speaker 1: was a bit more like, Okay, it has been like
- 53:02Speaker 1: three month stop and now like two months like on
- 53:05Speaker 1: and back again. So I wasn't worried about coming back
- 53:08Speaker 1: to shape. Because I knew that after like some recovery,
- 53:12Speaker 1: it will be okay. But it was more like, okay,
- 53:14Speaker 1: now it's like one or two more months, like without
- 53:18Speaker 1: doing anything.
- 53:19Speaker 3: That's probably the first time in your life you had
- 53:21Speaker 3: to literally sit in a chair.
- 53:23Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah, it was long.
- 53:25Speaker 3: Then.
- 53:25Speaker 2: Also like.
- 53:27Speaker 1: I didn't tell my doctor or what I was doing.
- 53:30Speaker 1: So it was like I was starting to cycle, like
- 53:34Speaker 1: with the with the with the ferulah, yeah, with the boot.
- 53:39Speaker 1: So I was started psycing. Okay, it feels away. So
- 53:41Speaker 1: after two weeks, I tame a doctor. Can I you
- 53:43Speaker 1: start cycling? He started saying, yeah, you can start to
- 53:46Speaker 1: do something.
- 53:48Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 53:48Speaker 1: I'm the same with running, like I was running some
- 53:50Speaker 1: long distance things. And then he was saying, yeah, you
- 53:53Speaker 1: can start gently. So there's not an advice for people
- 53:57Speaker 1: like listen to your doctor, but the things you can do,
- 54:03Speaker 1: things like at the first weeks, like I could work
- 54:06Speaker 1: a bit more my upper body, or I can work
- 54:09Speaker 1: a bit the other legs. So I think not stopping completely,
- 54:12Speaker 1: it's important for trying to.
- 54:14Speaker 3: First however you could and then you ended up I
- 54:16Speaker 3: think it was three and a half months after you
- 54:19Speaker 3: suffered the injury, you won the marathon. The mont Plan.
- 54:22Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, that was I didn't know how I would
- 54:25Speaker 1: I would be So that was interesting on that but yeah, no,
- 54:29Speaker 1: it was good.
- 54:29Speaker 4: I mean how much running were you able to get
- 54:31Speaker 4: in before that race?
- 54:34Speaker 1: I was able to run during one Yeah, like one month,
- 54:38Speaker 1: I would say, or yeah, something like three weeks one month,
- 54:41Speaker 1: and yeah, like I did some long days, some very
- 54:46Speaker 1: very long days, and then some.
- 54:48Speaker 2: Short short running.
- 54:51Speaker 1: But but yeah, it was like I wasn't afraid about
- 54:55Speaker 1: the amount of running, but I was more afraid about
- 54:57Speaker 1: this speed, like on going downhill very fast.
- 55:01Speaker 3: Yeah, I mean speaking of downhill, I mean that's really
- 55:06Speaker 3: where you shine and where your style kind of comes through.
- 55:08Speaker 3: You're like this ballet dancer, you know, prancing down these mountains,
- 55:13Speaker 3: you know, precarious, very technical trails with just incredible agility
- 55:18Speaker 3: that even the best ultrarunners, you know, marvel at. And
- 55:21Speaker 3: there's all these videos of you with a GoPro attached
- 55:25Speaker 3: to your head and you're like on the precipice of
- 55:27Speaker 3: some ridge where it's thousands of feet down in each direction,
- 55:30Speaker 3: and it makes everybody's palm sweat.
- 55:33Speaker 4: So it begs the question of your relationship with fear.
- 55:38Speaker 3: I mean people would say Oh, well, he's he's not afraid.
- 55:41Speaker 3: He doesn't have fear. But that's not really accurate, is it.
- 55:45Speaker 1: No, First, I think it's the thing is like fear,
- 55:49Speaker 1: like it's important to keep you alife. Like if we
- 55:52Speaker 1: were not afraid of anything, like we would climb thirty
- 55:58Speaker 1: floors building and jump because we are not try to
- 56:00Speaker 1: die and we would die. So like fear, it keeps
- 56:03Speaker 1: us alive, like because it tells us, okay, you are
- 56:06Speaker 1: not ready for that, or you you cannot do that.
- 56:09Speaker 1: And in the other way, like every person have different
- 56:16Speaker 1: skills on what is used to do, like I for me,
- 56:20Speaker 1: probably is more dangerous to be like walking in New
- 56:24Speaker 1: York or like Los Angeles in the streets because like
- 56:28Speaker 1: I'm not a city person. Also I will start to
- 56:30Speaker 1: cross the streets without yeah, because you are not used
- 56:37Speaker 1: to that. But if you are every day in the mountains,
- 56:40Speaker 1: it's like when you are in the highway, if you
- 56:43Speaker 1: take your wheel and you just turn it, probably you
- 56:45Speaker 1: will just have an accident.
- 56:48Speaker 2: But you don't do that.
- 56:49Speaker 1: So it's the same in the mountain, like you put
- 56:51Speaker 1: the feet in the good place like and you don't fall.
- 56:53Speaker 1: So if you are if you know how to run
- 56:55Speaker 1: like then you will not fall.
- 56:57Speaker 3: Yeah. Yeah, And we should probably talk a little bit
- 57:00Speaker 3: about your upbringing. I mean you grew up in the mountains.
- 57:03Speaker 3: Your parents were guides, right, so you were hiking and
- 57:09Speaker 3: mountaineering from as long as far back as you can recall.
- 57:14Speaker 2: Yeah, I didn't have much options. Yes, it I'm not sure.
- 57:18Speaker 1: Like my father was a mountain guide and my mother
- 57:22Speaker 1: she was also passionate about about mountaineering. So since we
- 57:27Speaker 1: were children with my sister, like we were going to
- 57:30Speaker 1: to do some sammidge or to do some crossings, so
- 57:34Speaker 1: that was.
- 57:35Speaker 2: Kind of like every day.
- 57:39Speaker 1: Yeah, everyday activities were like going out in the nature,
- 57:43Speaker 1: out in the mountains, So it was I don't think
- 57:46Speaker 1: it affects much like on physiology, like on how my
- 57:51Speaker 1: body was built, maybe within the ankles or that, but
- 57:53Speaker 1: it's mostly about being comfortable and to read the landscape.
- 58:00Speaker 4: When did you first realize that you had this talent.
- 58:04Speaker 1: Or I don't think I have a Like I am
- 58:08Speaker 1: good running, but I don't think it's a big talent.
- 58:10Speaker 3: But why not.
- 58:13Speaker 1: It's it's it's a stupid thing, like, its just it's running.
- 58:16Speaker 1: I still put a feed after the other and that's all, but.
- 58:20Speaker 4: You recognize that you have some gifts.
- 58:24Speaker 1: I yeah, like I think, like I have a morphology
- 58:26Speaker 1: that is adapt for running, and that's like, of course,
- 58:30Speaker 1: like if I if my dream was to be a.
- 58:34Speaker 2: Basketball yeah, like probably I would not.
- 58:37Speaker 1: Go far even if I put a lot of work
- 58:39Speaker 1: because I like one one seventies.
- 58:41Speaker 2: So but then it's it's work.
- 58:44Speaker 1: I think, like, yes, the morphology and some genes give
- 58:50Speaker 1: you something and then you need to put a lot
- 58:53Speaker 1: of work. And I think I think it was mostly
- 58:56Speaker 1: like when I was like teenager, I I wanted to
- 59:02Speaker 1: do that and I priorized that over all other things.
- 59:05Speaker 1: So I didn't want to socialize or I didn't want
- 59:09Speaker 1: to go parties or I didn't want to go after
- 59:12Speaker 1: school to do something. When I was after school, I
- 59:15Speaker 1: wanted to go training and perform. So I think it's
- 59:17Speaker 1: during that time that you start to choose your way
- 59:20Speaker 1: and yeah, put hours on it.
- 59:23Speaker 3: Your coming out party was was it UTMB when you
- 59:28Speaker 3: were like twenty or twenty one? Was that like the
- 59:31Speaker 3: first time where everybody kind of knew who you were?
- 59:35Speaker 2: Yeah? Yeah?
- 59:36Speaker 3: In me is where you were like winning by a
- 59:38Speaker 3: ton and I thought you were cheating.
- 59:40Speaker 2: Yeah. Two thousand and eight. Yeah, yeah, no, it was.
- 59:44Speaker 1: It was funny because like I before that, like I
- 59:48Speaker 1: already like warn some sky races or like a ski mountaineering,
- 59:53Speaker 1: a World Cup and things, so I knew I had
- 59:56Speaker 1: the level to one with Tim b like, and I
- 59:59Speaker 1: prepare the race very well, like I was doing doing
- 1:00:03Speaker 1: the round in two days, and I knew that I
- 1:00:07Speaker 1: was able to run in less than twenty hours, So
- 1:00:09Speaker 1: I say, okay, I can win that and if nothing happens,
- 1:00:13Speaker 1: like I will be winning. But then, like I think
- 1:00:17Speaker 1: the ultra running world at that moment, it was very
- 1:00:21Speaker 1: very close. So like it was they didn't seek that
- 1:00:26Speaker 1: someone young could win a race. And we see today
- 1:00:30Speaker 1: like it's almost only like a young guys winning the races.
- 1:00:34Speaker 3: But at that time, yeah, I was much older people
- 1:00:36Speaker 3: who'd been around for a long time. Yeah, it should
- 1:00:38Speaker 3: just show up out of nowhere and win a race.
- 1:00:40Speaker 1: No, No, Like at that moment, I was already I
- 1:00:43Speaker 1: had already like eight years of racing and performing. So
- 1:00:47Speaker 1: but it was just that the people of running, they
- 1:00:51Speaker 1: didn't look around. They only look to ultra running, so
- 1:00:54Speaker 1: didn't they didn't know like what other people were doing, right, you.
- 1:00:57Speaker 3: Were crushing it in skiing, mountaineering and all these other races.
- 1:01:03Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, like this the same year, yeah, or the
- 1:01:05Speaker 1: year before I won this car running World Cup on
- 1:01:09Speaker 1: this skim mountaineury, so it I think, yeah, I think
- 1:01:14Speaker 1: another running experience is important. But it doesn't matter if
- 1:01:18Speaker 1: you put like from thirty to thirty years old or
- 1:01:21Speaker 1: from like twenty to thirty or from ten to twenty
- 1:01:24Speaker 1: years old. So it's just like you need to have
- 1:01:26Speaker 1: the amount of miles, but it can be before or after, right.
- 1:01:30Speaker 3: And in that race, you were like winning by a ton,
- 1:01:33Speaker 3: and then near the finish they detained you for like
- 1:01:36Speaker 3: an hour and question.
- 1:01:37Speaker 4: You and make sure you have the right gear.
- 1:01:39Speaker 3: Wanted to know like what was going on, and then
- 1:01:42Speaker 3: they released you and you still won by an hour.
- 1:01:45Speaker 2: Yeah. Yeah.
- 1:01:46Speaker 1: It was like I don't have a very good memory
- 1:01:49Speaker 1: of this first edition because I put a lot of like, yeah,
- 1:01:55Speaker 1: I really wanted to the raise and for me, like
- 1:01:57Speaker 1: run a hundred marche, it was like I will be
- 1:01:59Speaker 1: able to. So I didn't adapt about like going fast,
- 1:02:02Speaker 1: but I was that thing about keeping the distance.
- 1:02:06Speaker 2: So during the race it was very cool.
- 1:02:09Speaker 1: And then they started to stop me, like to check
- 1:02:12Speaker 1: the gear like it was a mandatory year at the
- 1:02:14Speaker 1: time or now too. But and they were checking me
- 1:02:17Speaker 1: like if I had all the year, and they checked
- 1:02:19Speaker 1: me that like for five times during the race, and
- 1:02:23Speaker 1: all the time it was there. So one hour before finishing,
- 1:02:27Speaker 1: like just at the top of the last climb, they
- 1:02:30Speaker 1: stopped me and they give me the radiote.
- 1:02:33Speaker 2: They're going to the race director and it was like.
- 1:02:36Speaker 1: Okay, we know you are sitting somehow, you stop here
- 1:02:40Speaker 1: one hour like we will find what are you doing?
- 1:02:43Speaker 1: And then we decided if we let you finish or not.
- 1:02:46Speaker 1: And it was like, what's going on here? And I
- 1:02:49Speaker 1: wanted to quit at that moment. I rather I just
- 1:02:52Speaker 1: say okay, let's let's go home and keep in scheme
- 1:02:56Speaker 1: motaenealing and sky running. And then it was actually one
- 1:03:02Speaker 1: guy there, a.
- 1:03:04Speaker 2: Friend that was saying no, no, just.
- 1:03:07Speaker 1: Calm down, like keep going finish and like you would
- 1:03:09Speaker 1: say that everything is good, but at that moment, it was, yeah,
- 1:03:12Speaker 1: not right.
- 1:03:14Speaker 4: How do you think about.
- 1:03:17Speaker 3: Ultra running, How this explosion of growth that it's had
- 1:03:21Speaker 3: over the course of your career, I mean, what it
- 1:03:22Speaker 3: is now versus what it must have been like back
- 1:03:25Speaker 3: even I mean two thousand and eight wasn't that long ago.
- 1:03:27Speaker 3: But it's changed quite a bit. It's become so popular.
- 1:03:30Speaker 1: Yeah, and in ten years it has changed. Like at
- 1:03:33Speaker 1: the beginning, it was more an egy sport. It was
- 1:03:38Speaker 1: not that many people. It was just a few races.
- 1:03:41Speaker 1: And yeah, in ten years, it's like races everywhere. I
- 1:03:45Speaker 1: don't know how many hundred miles is in US, but
- 1:03:48Speaker 1: it's like hundreds of hundred miles and that's insane. It's
- 1:03:52Speaker 1: like one race every weekend at least, and so many participants.
- 1:03:57Speaker 1: Like race is about inter races in Europe with more
- 1:03:59Speaker 1: than ten runners.
- 1:04:01Speaker 2: And now it's the good thing. I think that it
- 1:04:07Speaker 2: keeps the the.
- 1:04:09Speaker 1: Like the soul of the sport, like it's not preformatting
- 1:04:13Speaker 1: to something like like illogical, Like I think the beauty
- 1:04:18Speaker 1: of the sport is to do logical things like UTMB
- 1:04:21Speaker 1: for example, he's running around the mountain. That's something like
- 1:04:24Speaker 1: you would do like just for fun, or like Western
- 1:04:27Speaker 1: stages from A to B, like you in a nice place.
- 1:04:30Speaker 1: And I think every race has his charm and it's
- 1:04:33Speaker 1: not only like about performance, but like the soul, Yeah,
- 1:04:37Speaker 1: the soul, and it keeps it's interesting. I don't think
- 1:04:39Speaker 1: it's a it's of course like it's an elite of
- 1:04:43Speaker 1: the like some fast runners that we want to want
- 1:04:46Speaker 1: races and we want to perform, but that's not the big.
- 1:04:49Speaker 2: Part of the sport.
- 1:04:50Speaker 1: The big part of the sport is that everybody can
- 1:04:53Speaker 1: feel the same thing, and like you can be h
- 1:04:58Speaker 1: top ad it or you can be a new beginning
- 1:05:00Speaker 1: and you can be in the same race, doing the
- 1:05:02Speaker 1: same path and experiencing something similar and at least for
- 1:05:07Speaker 1: the moment. I think it's keeping that and that's very
- 1:05:10Speaker 1: that's that's important.
- 1:05:11Speaker 3: The community. You know, it's an unbelievable community of people.
- 1:05:14Speaker 3: And you being somebody who likes your alone time, likes
- 1:05:17Speaker 3: to be out in the mountains by yourself. I mean
- 1:05:19Speaker 3: I also see somebody who really embraces and loves the community,
- 1:05:24Speaker 3: and that's that's a big driver for you. I Mean,
- 1:05:26Speaker 3: you race all the time. You're at all of these races,
- 1:05:29Speaker 3: like I don't know, you're fifteen or twenty of these
- 1:05:31Speaker 3: a year.
- 1:05:32Speaker 1: It seems like, yeah, it's a lot of racing. As
- 1:05:35Speaker 1: you said, community is something that it's important because it's
- 1:05:40Speaker 1: what makes the sport living. Like if it's only like
- 1:05:43Speaker 1: if it would be like only top of the racing
- 1:05:46Speaker 1: by themselves.
- 1:05:47Speaker 2: It has no sense.
- 1:05:49Speaker 1: And it's because it's this and I think it's a
- 1:05:53Speaker 1: cool community. It's people that loves loves like challenging themselves,
- 1:05:57Speaker 1: loves the sport, but they also like it's sort.
- 1:05:59Speaker 2: Of connection with nature.
- 1:06:01Speaker 1: It's it's a connection with the with the places, and
- 1:06:04Speaker 1: especially here in US, it's a big difference I think
- 1:06:07Speaker 1: with Europe on how how these you need to be
- 1:06:12Speaker 1: like kind of related to the to the community and
- 1:06:15Speaker 1: to the place with the like all the hundred mile
- 1:06:19Speaker 1: races almost they require like a trail service, so you
- 1:06:23Speaker 1: need to work on the trails before you.
- 1:06:26Speaker 2: Are able to to to resist for a race.
- 1:06:30Speaker 1: So that's yeah, I think that really cool thing is
- 1:06:33Speaker 1: that it's it's not only about racing, but it's also
- 1:06:37Speaker 1: like I think feeling. You can feel the race in
- 1:06:40Speaker 1: a racing perspective, but you can feel the race in
- 1:06:42Speaker 1: our organizing perspective, in a volunteering or in a pacing
- 1:06:46Speaker 1: and all all have the same importance.
- 1:06:49Speaker 2: And I think here, especially in the US, it's you
- 1:06:53Speaker 2: feel that.
- 1:06:55Speaker 1: Much more that they respect, Yeah, the respect as much
- 1:06:58Speaker 1: as the pacer or the volunteer than the than the
- 1:07:01Speaker 1: one that wins or than the participants.
- 1:07:03Speaker 3: Yeah, that's something that's really cool and unique about the world.
- 1:07:06Speaker 1: I think.
- 1:07:08Speaker 3: Do you think that you have a different relationship with
- 1:07:12Speaker 3: pain and suffering than the average athlete? Like, how do
- 1:07:17Speaker 3: you think about those things?
- 1:07:20Speaker 2: I don't like pain, but I accept that it's part
- 1:07:22Speaker 2: of the job.
- 1:07:24Speaker 3: Do you think that you feel it in the same
- 1:07:26Speaker 3: way other people feel it? Obviously you only have your
- 1:07:28Speaker 3: own experience, but you have this ability to tolerate it
- 1:07:31Speaker 3: at a pretty high level. I mean, was that hard
- 1:07:34Speaker 3: rock race you broke your collar bone at like mile
- 1:07:36Speaker 3: thirteen and still you just finished the race, but like
- 1:07:41Speaker 3: won the race.
- 1:07:42Speaker 2: Yeah, but like it's the arm, Like you don't run
- 1:07:45Speaker 2: with your arms.
- 1:07:46Speaker 3: So it's like it's not not Yeah, did you just
- 1:07:50Speaker 3: like did you know it was broken right away and
- 1:07:52Speaker 3: put it like harness it somehow? Like what did you
- 1:07:54Speaker 3: actually do when that occurred?
- 1:07:56Speaker 2: Yeah, it was very stupid of me.
- 1:07:58Speaker 1: Like actually it was a bit of was like we
- 1:08:01Speaker 1: were running and it was in the beginning of the race,
- 1:08:03Speaker 1: like mile I think it was my like mile thirteen
- 1:08:07Speaker 1: or something like that, and then it was this like
- 1:08:11Speaker 1: small like just like maybe only like fifty meters snowfield,
- 1:08:18Speaker 1: and I was saying, okay, I want to, like it
- 1:08:20Speaker 1: will be fun to go in the snowfield and do
- 1:08:22Speaker 1: like skiing. And I was going there and I was
- 1:08:25Speaker 1: like gliding in the snow and then I completely lost
- 1:08:28Speaker 1: the control. So I just right, you just hit the
- 1:08:31Speaker 1: rocks after and you're just trying to have a little
- 1:08:33Speaker 1: bit of fun. Yeah, and then like okay, it was
- 1:08:35Speaker 1: like okay, I'm so stupid. So I put it the
- 1:08:39Speaker 1: shoulder back and then it was okay during like maybe
- 1:08:43Speaker 1: two or three miles because it was still warm, but
- 1:08:46Speaker 1: then it started to be cooler, so it started to
- 1:08:49Speaker 1: be really painful. But then I figured out away with
- 1:08:53Speaker 1: the backpack, like to lock the shoulder and so war like, Yeah,
- 1:08:59Speaker 1: it was. I think when you are in a race,
- 1:09:02Speaker 1: like you can really put yourself through pain, like you
- 1:09:04Speaker 1: just go on and like you don't think too much
- 1:09:07Speaker 1: about eatn ye.
- 1:09:08Speaker 3: I mean I would think that if the race was
- 1:09:10Speaker 3: shorter because of the adrenaline rush can carry you through
- 1:09:13Speaker 3: something like that. But when you're dealing with you know,
- 1:09:16Speaker 3: the number of hours that one hundred mile are entails,
- 1:09:19Speaker 3: I would imagine that wears off at some point.
- 1:09:22Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah, I would not say it's pleasure. It's not pleasant, but.
- 1:09:28Speaker 1: Like, yeah, it's it's only pain, like it's it's if
- 1:09:33Speaker 1: it's not something dangerous, like if it was like if
- 1:09:36Speaker 1: you break a leg and you say okay, if I continue,
- 1:09:39Speaker 1: like it will be much worse, then it's stupid to continue.
- 1:09:42Speaker 1: But if it's only pain, like I was thinking anyway,
- 1:09:45Speaker 1: like what if I stop now, I will go to
- 1:09:48Speaker 1: the hotel and I will have pain anyway because because
- 1:09:50Speaker 1: it will not go away, and I will just be
- 1:09:54Speaker 1: sad because I have pain and sad because I am
- 1:09:58Speaker 1: sitting here. I have been doing a long travel and
- 1:10:01Speaker 1: I'm just sitting in a hotel. So i will be
- 1:10:04Speaker 1: sad because I have pen. But I can run, so
- 1:10:07Speaker 1: I'll be less sad of it. Yeah, running, Yeah exactly. Yeah,
- 1:10:11Speaker 1: Like that's bizarrely logical.
- 1:10:14Speaker 3: I suppose in some strange universe, of all the things
- 1:10:20Speaker 3: that you've done, what has been the most challenging for you?
- 1:10:26Speaker 1: Mm hmm, Like it's always easy when you have done something,
- 1:10:34Speaker 1: like because you have been able to do it, then
- 1:10:38Speaker 1: it looks like easy, Like you can put a lot
- 1:10:40Speaker 1: of effort on doing something, but if you not fail,
- 1:10:44Speaker 1: then it's like Okay, it was not that hard. So
- 1:10:47Speaker 1: I think the hardest things is always when you fail,
- 1:10:49Speaker 1: because like it means that you need to like it
- 1:10:53Speaker 1: was not enough.
- 1:10:53Speaker 3: That's theable the cheachable moments.
- 1:10:56Speaker 2: Yeah, I think so.
- 1:10:57Speaker 1: And for I think like one of the hard thet
- 1:11:01Speaker 1: races I have been feeling, it was a Western Stage
- 1:11:05Speaker 1: twenty ten.
- 1:11:07Speaker 2: Like I was completely unprepared.
- 1:11:11Speaker 1: I was running a lot, a lot of things, like
- 1:11:15Speaker 1: long distance runs just the weeks before in Europe. I
- 1:11:20Speaker 1: came here and I didn't think about like heat. I
- 1:11:23Speaker 1: was thinking, Okay, it will be hot, but I like hot.
- 1:11:27Speaker 1: For me, it's like being like more than twenty degrees celsius.
- 1:11:32Speaker 1: That's I don't know how that's in in Fahrenhell, but
- 1:11:35Speaker 1: it's like how we are now here in Los Angeles
- 1:11:41Speaker 1: is way much hotter than for me.
- 1:11:43Speaker 2: It's hot. So then Western Stage it's like around ninety some.
- 1:11:50Speaker 1: Degrees and I didn't expect that at all, and I
- 1:11:54Speaker 1: was thinking, okay, I just ran like without water and
- 1:11:58Speaker 1: I will drink in data stations. So then I started
- 1:12:01Speaker 1: to get the DA and I started to to have
- 1:12:03Speaker 1: crams all the body, and that was, yeah.
- 1:12:06Speaker 2: For sure, like a big fight to the finish right, is.
- 1:12:10Speaker 3: There any allure for you to tackle any of the
- 1:12:15Speaker 3: road ultras like bad water or does it have to
- 1:12:18Speaker 3: be in the mountains for you?
- 1:12:20Speaker 1: Yeah, I'm not a fan of road, like I normally
- 1:12:24Speaker 1: only run in road when I crossed from trade to trail.
- 1:12:27Speaker 4: Right, there's no New York Marathon coming up for you?
- 1:12:32Speaker 1: No, no, like on a way like it's it's somehow
- 1:12:35Speaker 1: like like I have always these boys here saying I
- 1:12:38Speaker 1: should try one marathon one time, or to try to
- 1:12:41Speaker 1: do like I don't know, a ten k or a
- 1:12:43Speaker 1: half or a marathon because it's it's interesting in terms
- 1:12:46Speaker 1: of training, like I would like to train like flat
- 1:12:51Speaker 1: during a period to be able to run plaster. But
- 1:12:55Speaker 1: in the other ways like I want to do that
- 1:12:57Speaker 1: and that and that and that and that, so I
- 1:13:00Speaker 1: don't find the time for doing that. So I would
- 1:13:03Speaker 1: not say that I will never do a road marathon,
- 1:13:06Speaker 1: because maybe one day I do. But yeah, for the moment,
- 1:13:09Speaker 1: I don't think is what I'm focused on?
- 1:13:12Speaker 3: What is uh what's driving all of this? Like where
- 1:13:15Speaker 3: does the motivation come from? Like where is the muse?
- 1:13:18Speaker 3: Like what's what's behind the curtain here that's propelling you?
- 1:13:24Speaker 3: It's a sense of wanting to be the best version
- 1:13:27Speaker 3: of who you are. Is it a search for excellence
- 1:13:29Speaker 3: or perfection? Is it just connecting with nature? Like what
- 1:13:33Speaker 3: is the driving impulse for you?
- 1:13:36Speaker 1: I think the driving impulse is it's happiness. Simply, it's
- 1:13:41Speaker 1: like to be happy and uh and that's uh. That's
- 1:13:46Speaker 1: an easy answer, but it's it's a depends where too,
- 1:13:50Speaker 1: because where where I find happiness is on or knowing myself,
- 1:13:57Speaker 1: challenging myself and seeing who I am where I can
- 1:14:02Speaker 1: go and experiencing different things. I think it's a lot
- 1:14:06Speaker 1: about experience and an experiencing places, natural biers, Like I've
- 1:14:14Speaker 1: run in places that they are beautiful, and that's what
- 1:14:17Speaker 1: it motivates me to go to one place or another,
- 1:14:20Speaker 1: is to want to go there. It's to see the
- 1:14:23Speaker 1: bills from that point and see the beauty of the nature.
- 1:14:27Speaker 1: It's one big motivation. And if I can combine that
- 1:14:31Speaker 1: with an inner challenge, that it can be be able,
- 1:14:36Speaker 1: like to put the question I am able to progress
- 1:14:38Speaker 1: and like I think achievement on the sense of like
- 1:14:43Speaker 1: doing things that you think that they are not possible
- 1:14:47Speaker 1: for you before, like all the effort you put to
- 1:14:51Speaker 1: be able to change these status from impossible to possible.
- 1:14:54Speaker 2: It's something that gives you a lot of Yeah.
- 1:14:57Speaker 3: So is there a sense when you're looking at a
- 1:14:59Speaker 3: challenge where you're like, oh man, that that scares me
- 1:15:02Speaker 3: or that I don't think I could do that, and
- 1:15:04Speaker 3: then that's what gets you interested or what does that
- 1:15:07Speaker 3: calculus look like when you're trying to think about what
- 1:15:10Speaker 3: the next adventure is going to be for you?
- 1:15:14Speaker 1: Yeah, I think it needs to be in the in
- 1:15:16Speaker 1: the edge of that, like it needs to be if
- 1:15:20Speaker 1: it's something like it's many races that you go there
- 1:15:24Speaker 1: and you know that you will win, and then it
- 1:15:26Speaker 1: can happen many things, but but you think, okay, with
- 1:15:30Speaker 1: the people as there, or like with the preparation is
- 1:15:34Speaker 1: it will not be a surprise if I win, and
- 1:15:36Speaker 1: then like you finished, you win, but it's not any
- 1:15:38Speaker 1: emotion because like it's.
- 1:15:39Speaker 3: Not one's raised ten times before, yeah.
- 1:15:43Speaker 1: Or not not that, but just like because you know
- 1:15:46Speaker 1: that it's nothing, that it's surprising, or that it's nothing
- 1:15:49Speaker 1: that it's putting you on challenge.
- 1:15:53Speaker 2: And I think the challenge is just.
- 1:15:56Speaker 1: Where you think, okay, that that's maybe possible or maybe
- 1:16:01Speaker 1: not possible for me, And I think it's this line
- 1:16:04Speaker 1: wherey because if you think, okay, I want to do
- 1:16:07Speaker 1: like I want to run one marathon in two hours,
- 1:16:11Speaker 1: I know that that's impossible, like completely impossible for me.
- 1:16:14Speaker 1: So that's not a goal, that's just a dream and
- 1:16:19Speaker 1: attempting that it will not make sense because it's, yeah,
- 1:16:26Speaker 1: it has not any possibility. So I think you need
- 1:16:29Speaker 1: to or like I find the challenge where it's really
- 1:16:33Speaker 1: like thinking, for example, I know that if everything goes
- 1:16:38Speaker 1: perfect and I feel that and with this preparation and
- 1:16:41Speaker 1: with all these things, it's a possibility to doing it.
- 1:16:45Speaker 1: There is the exciting point.
- 1:16:47Speaker 3: So then what are you thinking about right now, like
- 1:16:49Speaker 3: where what are you looking at at the moment that
- 1:16:52Speaker 3: gives you that feeling?
- 1:16:54Speaker 1: Well, I like polyvalance like a fan season for me,
- 1:17:01Speaker 1: and it's not about the pure performance on one thing,
- 1:17:06Speaker 1: but it's also like being able to run like one
- 1:17:09Speaker 1: hundred miles and a short distance and do some nice climb,
- 1:17:14Speaker 1: like to combine all these and be able to to
- 1:17:17Speaker 1: be on yeah, performing well in both. It's kind of
- 1:17:22Speaker 1: very exciting because it means like how to prepare, how
- 1:17:27Speaker 1: to prepare the different things on the same time, and
- 1:17:31Speaker 1: the recovery and the different skills that that's very exciting
- 1:17:33Speaker 1: in a point and then in like I think in
- 1:17:38Speaker 1: running itself, like it's maybe like a few races that
- 1:17:44Speaker 1: I would like you.
- 1:17:45Speaker 2: To perform a bit better.
- 1:17:46Speaker 1: But yeah, like probably inter running now is not where
- 1:17:50Speaker 1: I get the more like excitement. But yeah, in montaneury,
- 1:17:55Speaker 1: like last year Everest, like it was very interesting for me,
- 1:18:01Speaker 1: not because what I did that it was like.
- 1:18:05Speaker 2: Not that big deal in a way, like but it
- 1:18:09Speaker 2: was most little no but like go ahead or no.
- 1:18:13Speaker 1: But like climbing Everest without oggen has been climbed many
- 1:18:16Speaker 1: times and the only interesting thing was the recovery and
- 1:18:21Speaker 1: the climatization. So that's what I learned, like how to
- 1:18:25Speaker 1: acclimatize on how to I was able to spend so
- 1:18:28Speaker 1: many hours in high altitude and even if I wasn't
- 1:18:33Speaker 1: feeling good, I was able to move. So that give
- 1:18:36Speaker 1: me theirs of like why not to do some link
- 1:18:38Speaker 1: ups or like combine like long distance.
- 1:18:41Speaker 2: In high altitude. And I think that that came interesting.
- 1:18:44Speaker 3: For that realization, that combination your ability to handle the
- 1:18:49Speaker 3: acclimatization and the recovery, Like how can you then apply
- 1:18:52Speaker 3: it to a new challenge that would be interesting. Yeah,
- 1:18:55Speaker 3: any way, that's looking forward too, because like people have said, well,
- 1:18:57Speaker 3: do you want to go back to Everest and see
- 1:18:59Speaker 3: if you can do it faster? And you're somebody who's
- 1:19:01Speaker 3: always looking forward like that, that's not as interesting to
- 1:19:04Speaker 3: you as like something new.
- 1:19:06Speaker 1: Yees, especially, like I think it's it's always possible to
- 1:19:09Speaker 1: go faster, like and when you do one time, you
- 1:19:11Speaker 1: see the mistakes you have done, so like, but going
- 1:19:14Speaker 1: back and doing faster like it's it's like it's a
- 1:19:19Speaker 1: big travel so it's better to do something different than
- 1:19:22Speaker 1: at the same time, just like a few few minutes
- 1:19:25Speaker 1: or hour faster.
- 1:19:26Speaker 2: So but like I think in high altitude, like link
- 1:19:30Speaker 2: ups are very.
- 1:19:31Speaker 3: Interesting, meaning from one mountain to the next, Yeah.
- 1:19:34Speaker 1: From one month into the other, or like very long ridges,
- 1:19:37Speaker 1: like ridges between mountains, because there you need to be
- 1:19:42Speaker 1: fast to do it because the speed it's it's one
- 1:19:49Speaker 1: the only possibility to spend like to do these distances
- 1:19:52Speaker 1: in high altitude, and the other is like, yeah, it's
- 1:19:56Speaker 1: a bit more challenging on technical scales.
- 1:19:58Speaker 2: So these things are yeah, are interesting now.
- 1:20:02Speaker 3: Yeah, the ability to be creative, like you're sort of
- 1:20:05Speaker 3: inventing this thing as you go. It's not purely running,
- 1:20:08Speaker 3: it's not purely skiing, it's not purely mountaineering. It's this
- 1:20:12Speaker 3: hybrid of all of these skills that you've been doing
- 1:20:15Speaker 3: for a very long time, and it's your ability to
- 1:20:17Speaker 3: like take a paint brush and like paint this canvas
- 1:20:20Speaker 3: with what you're able to do in your own unique way.
- 1:20:24Speaker 1: Yeah, it's interesting, like I think looking to the past,
- 1:20:27Speaker 1: like a lot of people have been doing a lot
- 1:20:29Speaker 1: of things. So it's not that we are inventing anything,
- 1:20:32Speaker 1: but it's interesting to do. Yeah, to be able to
- 1:20:39Speaker 1: look in a map or to be able to look
- 1:20:41Speaker 1: in a mountain in a picture and to imagine something
- 1:20:44Speaker 1: to do because you like to do it, not because
- 1:20:48Speaker 1: it's something that it's.
- 1:20:51Speaker 2: Like famous or something that is on the history or everything.
- 1:20:56Speaker 1: I just like to be there and say, Okay, that
- 1:20:58Speaker 1: looks like amazing to do, Like it looks fun to
- 1:21:01Speaker 1: run from the ridge to the other, or to look
- 1:21:03Speaker 1: them up and say like wow, that's really fun to
- 1:21:07Speaker 1: follow this line right.
- 1:21:08Speaker 3: Well, now that you're so well known, I mean you're
- 1:21:11Speaker 3: this you know, kind of global figure. When you make
- 1:21:14Speaker 3: a decision about what your challenge is going to be,
- 1:21:17Speaker 3: there's a lot of people who are like paying attention.
- 1:21:19Speaker 4: To that and have an opinion about it.
- 1:21:22Speaker 3: You know, you are you able to like block all
- 1:21:24Speaker 3: of that out and have the clarity to just do
- 1:21:27Speaker 3: what your heart is telling you to do, or do
- 1:21:29Speaker 3: you find yourself being influenced by all these externalities that
- 1:21:33Speaker 3: really weren't part of the equation when you begin all.
- 1:21:36Speaker 1: Of this, Like we are always influenced, Unlike it's influence
- 1:21:40Speaker 1: can be good and can be bad. And I think
- 1:21:43Speaker 1: it's it's it's it's me or it's yourself. And we
- 1:21:48Speaker 1: need to decide which influencers are cool or not. And
- 1:21:52Speaker 1: I think it's many that they are really right, like
- 1:21:55Speaker 1: especially today, like for example, social media, I think it has.
- 1:21:59Speaker 2: A lot of good things, is on a lot of
- 1:22:00Speaker 2: bad things. And the good things is that now.
- 1:22:02Speaker 1: We can see like what other people is doing, and
- 1:22:06Speaker 1: I don't know, like for you are saying, like Alex Hornod,
- 1:22:09Speaker 1: like what he's doing, it's very different of what I'm doing.
- 1:22:13Speaker 1: But it gives me a lot of inspiration for doing
- 1:22:16Speaker 1: some things, or what Colin Hally is doing or what
- 1:22:21Speaker 1: other other runners, and that can give me ideas of
- 1:22:25Speaker 1: what to do.
- 1:22:26Speaker 2: So that's like good influences.
- 1:22:27Speaker 1: And then it's also like the what they say bad
- 1:22:30Speaker 1: influences that these people saying, ah, you should do that,
- 1:22:32Speaker 1: or like you should do that in this way, or
- 1:22:35Speaker 1: like it can be like the pressure like you could
- 1:22:38Speaker 1: feel from I don't know, like.
- 1:22:41Speaker 2: Press or like our funds or response or that. But
- 1:22:44Speaker 2: I think I'm.
- 1:22:48Speaker 1: I'm in a moment where I don't really care about
- 1:22:52Speaker 1: this match, and I know, like, okay, I.
- 1:22:55Speaker 2: Run and I do racing, and that's on a way,
- 1:22:59Speaker 2: like my way of living.
- 1:23:01Speaker 1: But what I want to do in the mountains, it's
- 1:23:02Speaker 1: more like for pleasure and for like these kind of
- 1:23:06Speaker 1: testing and seeing if things is possible.
- 1:23:09Speaker 2: So I really want to do these on my way.
- 1:23:14Speaker 1: On the projects, I really motivated, especially because like it's
- 1:23:19Speaker 1: not the rise that you can say, Okay, even if
- 1:23:21Speaker 1: I'm not motivated, I can go through. Like if you
- 1:23:24Speaker 1: are doing a project in the mountains and if you
- 1:23:26Speaker 1: are not one hundred percent in there, like if it's
- 1:23:29Speaker 1: a problem, it's not that you lose the race, is
- 1:23:31Speaker 1: that you die, so right.
- 1:23:32Speaker 3: The consequences are it could not be you know, it
- 1:23:35Speaker 3: could not be higher. But I think on along the
- 1:23:39Speaker 3: lines of the similarities between you and Alex.
- 1:23:45Speaker 4: You know, Alex is.
- 1:23:45Speaker 3: Somebody who has been very conscious and diligent about creating
- 1:23:49Speaker 3: a lifestyle that's conducive to allowing him to do the
- 1:23:53Speaker 3: thing that he loves the most, right like removing all
- 1:23:56Speaker 3: of those external pressures and keeping his life very simple
- 1:24:00Speaker 3: so that he has the most amount of time to
- 1:24:02Speaker 3: do the things that not only he's best at, but
- 1:24:05Speaker 3: that move him. And he's able to do what he's
- 1:24:08Speaker 3: what he's able to do because he's fully integrated, Like
- 1:24:12Speaker 3: he takes this talent and this passion and what moves
- 1:24:15Speaker 3: him in his heart and his passions, and he puts
- 1:24:17Speaker 3: it all together and it gets expressed when he climbs
- 1:24:20Speaker 3: up El Capitan. And I see you as someone very similar,
- 1:24:23Speaker 3: Like you made this conscious decision to leave Shamani to
- 1:24:26Speaker 3: live in Norway, where you know, life is a little
- 1:24:29Speaker 3: bit simpler and everything that you love is right outside
- 1:24:32Speaker 3: your door and you can just go be the person
- 1:24:35Speaker 3: that you're meant to be. And the races that you've
- 1:24:38Speaker 3: won and the FKTs and Everest and all of that
- 1:24:41Speaker 3: is just an expression of this passion. And you're this
- 1:24:44Speaker 3: integrated human being who can take this whatever God gifted
- 1:24:48Speaker 3: talent you have combine it with what gets you excited
- 1:24:52Speaker 3: and out of bed every morning, and put it all
- 1:24:54Speaker 3: together to express yourself in this way that's almost you know,
- 1:24:58Speaker 3: it's as artistic as it is is athletic.
- 1:25:02Speaker 1: Yeah, it's and it's I think it's hard to do
- 1:25:06Speaker 1: that nowadays because we get so much with like inertia.
- 1:25:12Speaker 2: It takes a lot of people today.
- 1:25:16Speaker 1: I think like we it's we tend to do what
- 1:25:20Speaker 1: it's the simple thing, the simple thing, and to try
- 1:25:23Speaker 1: to do what's easy and what it's supposed to be,
- 1:25:28Speaker 1: and we don't take time to find what we want
- 1:25:32Speaker 1: to do and not what we are supposed to do.
- 1:25:35Speaker 1: And but then like when you find that that's what
- 1:25:39Speaker 1: you want to do and to find that the balance
- 1:25:42Speaker 1: on that, it's much like it's just the life is
- 1:25:46Speaker 1: much better, like everything around it is much better. But yeah,
- 1:25:51Speaker 1: I suppose it's just like it needs to it needs
- 1:25:55Speaker 1: some courage or it needs some like seeing sometimes okay
- 1:26:00Speaker 1: I don't want to that, and to be able to
- 1:26:03Speaker 1: say no, I don't want to that, and I want
- 1:26:05Speaker 1: to to cut on things, and maybe that means less
- 1:26:10Speaker 1: made exposition or less money or less I don't know
- 1:26:15Speaker 1: things that they are supposed to drive you through through success,
- 1:26:19Speaker 1: but then like how you how you can't success?
- 1:26:24Speaker 2: It's very different.
- 1:26:25Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, So what is living outside the comfort zone
- 1:26:29Speaker 3: taught you? Like this, this ability to be comfortable with
- 1:26:33Speaker 3: being uncomfortable, Like how is that a teacher for you?
- 1:26:36Speaker 3: And what can be learned from that?
- 1:26:39Speaker 1: Well?
- 1:26:40Speaker 2: I think it teachs you.
- 1:26:42Speaker 1: It's mostly a decision taking, like how to how to
- 1:26:46Speaker 1: take decisions, how you take the decisions in the in
- 1:26:50Speaker 1: the zone, like to be always exposed, like to not
- 1:26:54Speaker 1: be sure about what's going on, and to able to
- 1:26:58Speaker 1: be really rational on.
- 1:27:02Speaker 2: Seeing very fast.
- 1:27:04Speaker 1: What are the the different consequences on each decision you
- 1:27:08Speaker 1: are taking at that period. I think that you can
- 1:27:12Speaker 1: apply on on on live and you can apply on
- 1:27:14Speaker 1: on everything else. And yeah, it's uh, I think it's
- 1:27:21Speaker 1: to be really cold blood, but to be cold lot
- 1:27:25Speaker 1: to follow your your emotions and that's.
- 1:27:28Speaker 2: That's kind of contradictory. But then like is you.
- 1:27:32Speaker 1: Want you need to to listen to your emotion or
- 1:27:36Speaker 1: to listen to your to yourself to see where you
- 1:27:40Speaker 1: want to go, watch the lifestyle you want to have,
- 1:27:42Speaker 1: watch the things you want to achieve, and that that
- 1:27:45Speaker 1: need to be your emotion that designs is but then
- 1:27:50Speaker 1: the decision taking through there it needs to be really
- 1:27:53Speaker 1: like rational.
- 1:27:55Speaker 3: Yeah what what what scares you the most?
- 1:28:01Speaker 1: Well, many things I would say, like of course like
- 1:28:06Speaker 1: when going out, like dying or like uh having like
- 1:28:12Speaker 1: a big accident, things like that, But I think, uh,
- 1:28:17Speaker 1: what scares me in more.
- 1:28:19Speaker 2: General is like where where are we going? Like the war?
- 1:28:25Speaker 1: Like now we see like all the environmental problems, and
- 1:28:28Speaker 1: especially when you are in in uh, in these areas
- 1:28:32Speaker 1: like with a lot of glaciers, like you can see
- 1:28:34Speaker 1: day by day almost how it's changing. So on this
- 1:28:39Speaker 1: way like where we're going as as the planet, and uh,
- 1:28:43Speaker 1: that's something that it's it's scurrying. Uh yeah, And and
- 1:28:49Speaker 1: I think that and where where a socity? Like all
- 1:28:54Speaker 1: the problems between humans that we have, all the the
- 1:28:59Speaker 1: we Yeah, it's a lot of yeah conflicts, human conflicts too,
- 1:29:04Speaker 1: And I think that's that's more scary than not then
- 1:29:06Speaker 1: like dying.
- 1:29:09Speaker 3: The future of humanity, yeah, future of.
- 1:29:12Speaker 1: Yeah humanity, but humanity like the yeah we are one
- 1:29:16Speaker 1: speeds more of the planets.
- 1:29:17Speaker 2: Also the planet Yeah.
- 1:29:18Speaker 3: The planet too, well the planet would be fine.
- 1:29:20Speaker 2: Without us, Yeah, that's for sure.
- 1:29:22Speaker 3: That's for sure, somebody you've seen much more of it
- 1:29:26Speaker 3: than than you can attest to that. I would imagine,
- 1:29:29Speaker 3: what do you think people misunderstand about you?
- 1:29:39Speaker 2: I don't know, I don't care. I think but not healthy, Yeah, no,
- 1:29:45Speaker 2: I think.
- 1:29:46Speaker 1: Yeah, it's like probably like the first years, like when
- 1:29:49Speaker 1: you get attention, you are, you get attention and you
- 1:29:53Speaker 1: want to to to take care.
- 1:29:56Speaker 2: Of this audience.
- 1:29:57Speaker 1: I would say, but the like, you need to be
- 1:30:01Speaker 1: yourself and you need to do things that you do
- 1:30:03Speaker 1: and you know that some people will like you, some
- 1:30:06Speaker 1: people will not like you, some people will understand some not.
- 1:30:10Speaker 1: But if you put your life only to make a
- 1:30:15Speaker 1: solution on that like to, then like you will not
- 1:30:18Speaker 1: live your life.
- 1:30:18Speaker 4: So yeah, yeah, but it must be weird.
- 1:30:21Speaker 3: It must have been weird when suddenly you started getting
- 1:30:24Speaker 3: a lot of press and there's like New York Times
- 1:30:26Speaker 3: and all these people are like writing about you and
- 1:30:28Speaker 3: you're just like literally this kid who just likes to
- 1:30:31Speaker 3: run long distances in the mountains.
- 1:30:34Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 1:30:34Speaker 1: Sure that it's something that it's not that I was
- 1:30:38Speaker 1: looking for, And it's something that of course, like everybody
- 1:30:43Speaker 1: likes attention and everybody likes like people liking them but
- 1:30:51Speaker 1: it also takes a lot of energy. Like I'm not
- 1:30:54Speaker 1: very social or I'm not social at all, Like I
- 1:30:58Speaker 1: in general like to be kind of alone, Like two persons,
- 1:31:02Speaker 1: it's okay, three it's too much.
- 1:31:04Speaker 4: Yeah, well you're gonna have three in your house soon.
- 1:31:06Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, I think that's okay. Yeah yeah, but yeah,
- 1:31:12Speaker 1: it's this kind of thing. So but yeah, so then
- 1:31:15Speaker 1: it needs to find a good balance with like the
- 1:31:18Speaker 1: energy and these moments to reach ourge energy.
- 1:31:22Speaker 3: Yeah, and what's what if you could do anything in
- 1:31:26Speaker 3: a typical day, Like what does that look like? Just
- 1:31:28Speaker 3: you going at your front door and getting lost in
- 1:31:30Speaker 3: the mountains.
- 1:31:32Speaker 1: Yeah, like a typical day, Like it's just like waking up,
- 1:31:35Speaker 1: like not very early, like six thirty seven. I don't
- 1:31:39Speaker 1: eat much breakfast normally, like if I'm home, like just
- 1:31:41Speaker 1: a glass of water and maybe yeah, like one cookie
- 1:31:45Speaker 1: or like Emily shebaggs in the moon buns that they
- 1:31:48Speaker 1: are delicious, So maybe one of those in the morning,
- 1:31:51Speaker 1: and then I go for a run in summer ski
- 1:31:54Speaker 1: in the winter, and depending like weather conditions on.
- 1:32:00Speaker 2: If I feel good, like that can be between two
- 1:32:04Speaker 2: to five hours.
- 1:32:08Speaker 1: Or some days like a no longer like eight ten
- 1:32:10Speaker 1: fifteen hours, but normally more like two to five hours.
- 1:32:15Speaker 1: Then come back home a bit of work like males
- 1:32:19Speaker 1: and logistics, like preparing things. And then in the afternoon
- 1:32:23Speaker 1: normally you go for like one hour run or like
- 1:32:27Speaker 1: one short training some I can go to the climbing
- 1:32:32Speaker 1: gym or do some small exercises home, and then I
- 1:32:36Speaker 1: like reading.
- 1:32:37Speaker 2: So in the afternoon, like I like to just take
- 1:32:39Speaker 2: a book and read.
- 1:32:41Speaker 3: What kind of stuff do you like to read?
- 1:32:44Speaker 2: Novels and essays and things like that.
- 1:32:48Speaker 1: So yeah, like now, for example, now in this trouble
- 1:32:54Speaker 1: around like it has been reading some Foster Wallas books
- 1:32:58Speaker 1: and like some Spanish books like catal and Capital and
- 1:33:02Speaker 1: Outdoors or Milan Kundera, some books of Milan Condera ERICOI
- 1:33:08Speaker 1: really like them.
- 1:33:09Speaker 3: Do you have mentors in your life, like people that
- 1:33:12Speaker 3: you seek advice from.
- 1:33:14Speaker 1: Yeah, I have some people like Georgios and Geordico Dominos.
- 1:33:22Speaker 1: It's to two Catalan climbers that they they they were
- 1:33:29Speaker 1: the first ones that took me to the Malayas and
- 1:33:31Speaker 1: actually the first expedition we did, it was only the
- 1:33:34Speaker 1: three of us.
- 1:33:35Speaker 2: We had like small backpacks like thirty forty liters backpack.
- 1:33:42Speaker 1: And we were going like from very far away to
- 1:33:45Speaker 1: climb ham Mountains, very minimalistic. We were eating like one
- 1:33:48Speaker 1: portion of Leo food for the three of us per day.
- 1:33:52Speaker 1: So it was kind of this style and I always
- 1:33:54Speaker 1: consult with them when things on that and probably my
- 1:33:59Speaker 1: first Jordic canals. He was the one that started to
- 1:34:04Speaker 1: coach me when I started ski mountaineering, and we talk
- 1:34:08Speaker 1: almost every week.
- 1:34:09Speaker 2: About like training live.
- 1:34:12Speaker 1: And he's also very geek, like when when I have
- 1:34:15Speaker 1: doubts about like some algorithm that I'm looking for, like
- 1:34:20Speaker 1: for training or for like performance things or or things
- 1:34:24Speaker 1: like that, Yeah, it's the one to console and say, yeah,
- 1:34:26Speaker 1: maybe we need to find a way there. Yeah.
- 1:34:28Speaker 3: And Ooly Steck was kind of a mentor as well, right,
- 1:34:31Speaker 3: Like you learned a lot about mountaineering from him.
- 1:34:34Speaker 2: Yeah.
- 1:34:34Speaker 1: Ulli was someone that first I admired a lot when
- 1:34:38Speaker 1: when he was starting to or when I was starting
- 1:34:41Speaker 1: to to to raise and to be in the mountains,
- 1:34:44Speaker 1: like he was doing all these things incredible feits, and
- 1:34:48Speaker 1: and it was like, Wow, what's That's that's incredible And
- 1:34:51Speaker 1: then actually we meet a few times we were starting
- 1:34:55Speaker 1: we climb some things together and only like going to
- 1:34:59Speaker 1: a time day with him.
- 1:35:01Speaker 2: It was just like learning so much every every second.
- 1:35:04Speaker 4: Yeah, and then he passed away.
- 1:35:05Speaker 3: You guys were both in Nepal but on different mountains
- 1:35:09Speaker 3: when that occurred.
- 1:35:10Speaker 1: Right, Yeah, Actually he was in Everest in the south
- 1:35:15Speaker 1: side and I was in the north side, and when
- 1:35:19Speaker 1: when it happened, I was with emmelin Inshore You and
- 1:35:24Speaker 1: I just get the news and it's yeah, it's I
- 1:35:28Speaker 1: think moments that like that are hard and away because
- 1:35:32Speaker 1: first you lose a friend, but then like also because
- 1:35:36Speaker 1: the value system you have, like everybody has like a
- 1:35:42Speaker 1: way to look to live or the activities we do,
- 1:35:45Speaker 1: and and really had a way that I was really
- 1:35:49Speaker 1: inspired on and we share a lot of things. So
- 1:35:52Speaker 1: when he had an accident or people that follow this
- 1:35:56Speaker 1: way have an accident, it's like all these system of
- 1:35:59Speaker 1: valids is like falling down. And then it's like all
- 1:36:02Speaker 1: the questions like the risk we are taking are worth
- 1:36:05Speaker 1: it or like it's it's stupid what I'm doing. I
- 1:36:08Speaker 1: was there with Emily and it's like okay, Like I
- 1:36:11Speaker 1: was thinking like his wife and saying, okay, it's it's
- 1:36:17Speaker 1: it's worth it or not, And I think and then
- 1:36:21Speaker 1: like it's what we need to live, Like it's if
- 1:36:24Speaker 1: we want to preserve live, like we will be in
- 1:36:26Speaker 1: a coach every day, like just not going out because
- 1:36:29Speaker 1: everything can happen. But then like if we if it's
- 1:36:35Speaker 1: a possibility of dying, it means that we are living too.
- 1:36:39Speaker 3: Yeah, puts you into in touch, in connection with something
- 1:36:45Speaker 3: that we're all going to have to Yeah, at some point.
- 1:36:48Speaker 3: I mean that's another thing I talked to Alex about
- 1:36:51Speaker 3: at Link, Like I think he's able to live his
- 1:36:54Speaker 3: life much more present and aware because it's so connected
- 1:36:59Speaker 3: to death at every moment, and I think it infuses
- 1:37:03Speaker 3: his life with a little bit more vitality and perspective.
- 1:37:07Speaker 3: Like we in America, we all sort of tend to
- 1:37:10Speaker 3: believe it's not going to happen, and we try to,
- 1:37:13Speaker 3: you know, prevent any aspect of death from being in
- 1:37:16Speaker 3: our you know, line of sight. But when yeah, of
- 1:37:21Speaker 3: course it's gonna's gonna And there's something about like there's
- 1:37:26Speaker 3: something healthy I think about, you know, connecting with it
- 1:37:30Speaker 3: in that way and you know, certainly this is what
- 1:37:33Speaker 3: you were born to do, Like it's not like you're
- 1:37:34Speaker 3: going to not do it. And in some ways it's
- 1:37:38Speaker 3: honoringly for you to continue you know what he would
- 1:37:41Speaker 3: have wanted you to do.
- 1:37:43Speaker 1: Yeah. No, I think it's like this connection with with
- 1:37:46Speaker 1: the reask and be like seeing the death close. Like
- 1:37:50Speaker 1: it's it's very visial, like when when you are like soloing,
- 1:37:54Speaker 1: or when you are like steep a skin or like
- 1:37:55Speaker 1: putting you himself in some risky places. Like it's really
- 1:38:00Speaker 1: visual like you say, okay, if I do that, I'm dead.
- 1:38:03Speaker 1: But that's also an every day it's only that we
- 1:38:07Speaker 1: don't see it, like I was saying, like when you
- 1:38:10Speaker 1: are driving a highway, like if you do a stup thing,
- 1:38:13Speaker 1: you will die, but you will not do it. But
- 1:38:15Speaker 1: I think probably when you do these activities like in
- 1:38:19Speaker 1: mountaineering or in climbing, like the feeling of like having
- 1:38:25Speaker 1: the control of that, like saying, okay, I am controlling now,
- 1:38:30Speaker 1: like on how I put my feets on, how I
- 1:38:33Speaker 1: put my hands on, how I do this, on how
- 1:38:35Speaker 1: I traverse this place I have the control of like.
- 1:38:41Speaker 2: Living or dying. It gives you.
- 1:38:45Speaker 1: A sense of more responsibility thing about your life. And
- 1:38:50Speaker 1: it's like with the playing it gives you also yeah,
- 1:38:55Speaker 1: this perspective or like I yeah, like on only doing
- 1:39:02Speaker 1: the things that you want to do and that they
- 1:39:04Speaker 1: are important for you because you realize like it can
- 1:39:07Speaker 1: go really fast, or why to spend time doing things
- 1:39:10Speaker 1: that they don't mean anything at the end.
- 1:39:13Speaker 3: And with that in mind, then what is what is
- 1:39:16Speaker 3: the legacy that you would like to leave when it's
- 1:39:18Speaker 3: all said and done.
- 1:39:22Speaker 2: Not one? I think like just like that, we need
- 1:39:25Speaker 2: to live our life as like that. It's that nothing
- 1:39:30Speaker 2: we do is that. I think.
- 1:39:33Speaker 1: We are so much about we want to leave a legacy,
- 1:39:36Speaker 1: or we want to be remember, or we want to
- 1:39:39Speaker 1: do something important, and then nothing we do it's important,
- 1:39:44Speaker 1: Like it's yeah, it's it's nothing.
- 1:39:48Speaker 2: And I think when you.
- 1:39:49Speaker 1: Realize that we are not important and what we do
- 1:39:52Speaker 1: is not important, then you realize how wonderful it is.
- 1:39:56Speaker 3: Yeah, well that's back to the humility.
- 1:39:59Speaker 2: Or it's back to life.
- 1:40:00Speaker 1: And I think I inspte you to be in human
- 1:40:02Speaker 1: and to being Yeah, it's just just a small thing.
- 1:40:05Speaker 3: That's beautifully put. Well, I need to release you to
- 1:40:09Speaker 3: your life and let you let you go. But I
- 1:40:11Speaker 3: want to close this down by reading a passage at
- 1:40:15Speaker 3: the end of your book that really struck me. Uh,
- 1:40:20Speaker 3: and I'm interested in you elaborating on it, and it
- 1:40:22Speaker 3: goes like this. A great athlete is one who takes
- 1:40:25Speaker 3: advantage of the ability that genetics have brought him in
- 1:40:29Speaker 3: order to secure the great achievements. But an exceptional athlete
- 1:40:33Speaker 3: is one who can swim in the waters of complexity
- 1:40:35Speaker 3: and chaos, making what seems difficult easy, creating order from chaos. Yeah,
- 1:40:43Speaker 3: as you say, yeah, it's an order from chaos.
- 1:40:48Speaker 1: That's that's performance, I would say, because it's so many
- 1:40:51Speaker 1: things that they are not supposed to to happen like that,
- 1:40:56Speaker 1: and you are able to put all together. And that's
- 1:40:58Speaker 1: that's what's when you see when you see the path
- 1:41:04Speaker 1: on a place that it's uh, it's rough, that it's
- 1:41:08Speaker 1: not logical, is when you can.
- 1:41:11Speaker 2: See clear I think. Cool.
- 1:41:13Speaker 3: Good talking to you man, Thank you very much, thanks
- 1:41:16Speaker 3: for coming. It was a pleasure. I appreciate it very much.
- 1:41:21Speaker 3: Super inspiring. I wish you well, especially with the impending
- 1:41:25Speaker 3: new arrival.
- 1:41:26Speaker 1: Yeah, thank you.
- 1:41:27Speaker 4: Good luck surviving the big city.
- 1:41:29Speaker 2: Yeah than all the expeditions for sure.
- 1:41:33Speaker 1: Yeah.
- 1:41:33Speaker 3: If you if you want to connect with killing, he's
- 1:41:36Speaker 3: easy to find on the internet. On Instagram's probably the
- 1:41:39Speaker 3: best place right people want to see beautiful pictures.
- 1:41:42Speaker 1: And yeah, like, yeah, that's what they try to do
- 1:41:45Speaker 1: to put my beautiful places and put in Instagram.
- 1:41:49Speaker 4: And his book Run or Die.
- 1:41:52Speaker 3: I highly recommend it. It's a beautiful book. And the
- 1:41:55Speaker 3: new documentary which you're also promoting right now about the
- 1:41:59Speaker 3: Everest attempts. Can you tell us a little bit about that.
- 1:42:02Speaker 2: Yeah, we are.
- 1:42:03Speaker 1: We were working last year on putting the images of
- 1:42:08Speaker 1: of all it's not only about the Everest experience. Said
- 1:42:11Speaker 1: was there and said was filming in the mountain. But
- 1:42:14Speaker 1: it sounds so like summits up my life. Yeah, summits
- 1:42:17Speaker 1: of my life and coming back from why I ended
- 1:42:20Speaker 1: up doing Everest on the way I did, like all
- 1:42:23Speaker 1: the moments in my life that are important to drive
- 1:42:26Speaker 1: to there.
- 1:42:28Speaker 3: And if people are listening who want to check it out,
- 1:42:30Speaker 3: where do they go to view it? As it will
- 1:42:32Speaker 3: be streaming online.
- 1:42:34Speaker 1: It will be streaming online, so like they will be
- 1:42:37Speaker 1: able to find in my social media or in my website.
- 1:42:39Speaker 3: All right, cool, and I'll put a link up in
- 1:42:41Speaker 3: the show notes to that so people can find it.
- 1:42:44Speaker 2: Thank you.
- 1:42:45Speaker 3: How do you feel a feel good? Like? Yeah, I
- 1:42:48Speaker 3: know it's it's what time is it on your internal.
- 1:42:50Speaker 2: Like the internal clock like now, it's is not anymore here.
- 1:42:56Speaker 3: That's easy. We're beyond space and time, right, yeah, all right,
- 1:43:01Speaker 3: thanks so much man, appreciate it.
- 1:43:02Speaker 4: Peace La, it's running