Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / How Michelin-Level Innovation Is Actually Built with Jorge Luis Hernández Ep. 186
Transcript
- 0:00Hello chefs. This is Chef's PSA and I'm your
- 0:02host, Andre Natera. Today I'm joined by Chef Jorge
- 0:04Luis Hernandez, corporate Chef for Emmer and Rai Hospitality
- 0:08Group and Director of culinary innovation and R&D across Emmer
- 0:11and Rai, Hestia, Nicosi and Isidor, shaped by time at places
- 0:16like Mini Bar by Jose Andres and now driving Michelin recognized
- 0:20kitchens in Texas. In this episode, we talk about
- 0:22culinary innovation, mentorship, building processes through
- 0:26mistakes, and how storytelling and collaboration push food
- 0:29forward. Stay tuned.
- 0:44Great restaurants don't always bring customers in.
- 0:47Great stories do. Because in food, beverage and
- 0:49hospitality, what you sell is only part of the story.
- 0:54It's the why behind it, the authority you create and the
- 0:57experience that you've built. Market Scale turns expertise
- 1:03into content that connects podcasts, video series and
- 1:07industry education, not ads assets.
- 1:13Market Scale has brought run the pass and how to manage like an
- 1:16executive chef to life real world examples of how great
- 1:19content leads the conversation because attention is earned and
- 1:23the industry doesn't need more noise.
- 1:25It needs more leaders. You're at the time the chef at
- 1:35minibar for Jose Andres 2 Michelin stars and you think to
- 1:39yourself, I think I'm going to go turn in my notice.
- 1:42I want to know how was the conversation when you sat Jose
- 1:46down and said, hey, just so you know, I don't want to do this
- 1:48anymore. It was something I thought about
- 1:51for a really long time before doing it.
- 1:55And then actually I did a dry run with Ruben Garcia, the
- 1:57creative director. He and he kind of made me feel
- 2:00OK about it. But I think the crazy thing is,
- 2:04like, I was so scared. Like that had been my home for
- 2:07so long and I was worried. I was like, you know, like, am I
- 2:13going to let Chef down, you know?
- 2:16And he wasn't upset like not at all.
- 2:18He was like, of course you're going to go home, right?
- 2:22Because it's like he wants us to be where our heart is.
- 2:25And you know, that all that anticipation and anxiety I had
- 2:30about it, I was like, I was, you know, I put in like 4 months
- 2:33notice because I want to make sure the team's good, right?
- 2:36Right. Not rush anything.
- 2:38And he's like, yeah, enjoy it, right?
- 2:40Because like when, when, when he had hired me at minibar the
- 2:43second time, right? Because I've worked for him
- 2:44twice there. He was like, yeah, I'm going to
- 2:48let you have minibar for a little bit, but remember, it's
- 2:50mine, right? Like it's his house.
- 2:52Yeah, yeah. You know, and it really is to be
- 2:55a chef's cuisine at Minibar. It's you're you're a curator,
- 2:59right, of this just amazing legacy of this restaurant that
- 3:05has only had a handful of head chefs over the years.
- 3:07Yeah. You know, for me to have done
- 3:09that twice in my career, it's just like, you know, I still
- 3:13pinch myself the idea of doing it and that place will always
- 3:16feel like home. But I think like the, the, the
- 3:19best thing I can say about somebody like Jose is that he's
- 3:24not scared to let people go be who they are.
- 3:27Leaving him isn't a bad thing for him.
- 3:30It's a go out in the world and do what we do and continue to
- 3:34touch people and make those connections.
- 3:37If that's not the sign of a great mentor, a great leader, a
- 3:39great chef, then I, I don't know what is, right?
- 3:41You can plot how many amazing chefs worked for Jose or with
- 3:44Jose across the country, across the globe sometimes, right?
- 3:48Like that's impact, right? Like I all wish we can be a chef
- 3:52like that and say, like, all right, my former Sue's, my
- 3:55former head chefs are off doing amazing things.
- 3:58That's his point of view. And it's like one of those
- 4:00things where I know if I needed to, I could give him a call and
- 4:04he would give me the advice. He knows that if he needed me,
- 4:08if he's in Austin, he can call me and ask me for anything,
- 4:11right, Which he has done before. Yeah, you're, you're telling me
- 4:13that he did for the snowpocalypse we had?
- 4:15Yeah, Snowpocalypse. Yeah.
- 4:16With the World Central Kitchen, it was like we kind of just
- 4:20started talking. He's like, let's activate, let's
- 4:22go. And immediately his team's on
- 4:24the ground, we're making connections, and that's the way
- 4:26World Central Kitchen works, right?
- 4:27It's just really beautiful thing that chef mentality of like,
- 4:31here's a problem, let's solve it, let's go now, right?
- 4:34Let's go fast. What's interesting about that
- 4:36World Central Kitchen specifically in Austin, because
- 4:39this is the only time I've experienced and seen how they
- 4:42move, is I got the phone call, I want to say like at midnight and
- 4:46they said can you have, I don't remember the numbers like 500
- 4:49bucks lunches tomorrow at 10 AM or whatever it was.
- 4:53And I was like, you know, Jose's, I was like, yeah, I
- 4:56could, I, I'd figure out, right. So I remember, you know, we just
- 4:59gathered the troops. I don't remember what we were
- 5:00putting in the box lunches, like grilled cheese sandwiches,
- 5:02wherever. There wasn't a whole lot of food
- 5:04at the time, but it was quick and, and the ability, OK, we're
- 5:08going to have a truck there at this time.
- 5:09And I was like, wow, within 24 hours, they had trucks, they had
- 5:13volunteers, they had people, they had box lunches.
- 5:15They they had drop off points. Yeah, it was, it was wild.
- 5:19It was interesting to see. And I didn't, I've never met
- 5:22Jose, but I know he had passed through and was like, and I and
- 5:27I didn't get a chance to say hello or whatever.
- 5:28But it was really impressive to see how that world Central
- 5:33kitchen operates and and how he's able to just pick up the
- 5:36phone and then he calls you, you call someone and boom, people
- 5:40are moving that I. Mean that's the heart of what
- 5:41world central kitchen does well they mobilize by having
- 5:44connections right so there's an entire chef core team right
- 5:48there where the the team is reaching out to chefs in
- 5:51different regions where maybe we don't need you right now but
- 5:55maybe someday we do right like building those networks is just
- 5:58absolutely massive. But like I remember like when
- 6:01Jose was world central Kitchen in Haiti in the early days, the
- 6:05beauty of it was just his mentality of like I'm a chef if
- 6:09there's a problem, I know how to solve problems.
- 6:11That's what we do on a daily basis in our kitchens and our
- 6:14restaurants. It's like, and I know how to
- 6:16cook and I know how to connect to people, put all those things
- 6:19together and start building networks and now it's something
- 6:21that's just obviously mind blowing.
- 6:24Did you work with Barton Seaver at with with Jose?
- 6:27I didn't. I didn't work directly with him,
- 6:28but when I started as an intern for Jose Barton was like the hot
- 6:32shit chef in DC, Georgetown. He had a restaurant called Hook.
- 6:36That's right. That's right.
- 6:37He was, he was ATA in the fish department when I was in
- 6:40culinary school and I just missed him there.
- 6:43But like he was like legendary DC scene and he had worked for
- 6:46Jose before, so I loved going to his restaurant.
- 6:51We would do like events that he was doing.
- 6:53I would go volunteer to be like extra hands at.
- 6:56And one year at the CIA, he did a he did a demo and I was
- 6:59running the sustainable AG group at the time.
- 7:02So I'm like, yeah, I want to invite Barton to come do this
- 7:04demo. And he's butchering fish and
- 7:07slices his finger like mid, mid, mid butchery in the pro that he
- 7:12is. He just keeps going.
- 7:14He keeps going. Everybody sees a little bit of
- 7:15blood there. But yeah, he's badass.
- 7:19Badass human. Being well, it's funny.
- 7:20He's, we, we were talking about you, Bart, and he told me the
- 7:24story, but I couldn't remember if you sliced your hand or he
- 7:26sliced his hand. But he had, he had shared the
- 7:27story. He just put out a book with,
- 7:30with Andrew Zimmern. And he was here the other day
- 7:32doing a book sign. I was trying to catch up with
- 7:34him to get him on the show, but we couldn't, we couldn't align
- 7:37our schedules. But he he had a lot of really
- 7:39great things to say about you. Yeah, I mean, he, he was
- 7:41honestly one of the first chefs that I I met that was like, all
- 7:45right, a chef who's cooking in a kitchen can also be involved in
- 7:50their community with social impact, right?
- 7:53With in, in, in Barton's case, with ecological impact,
- 7:58political impact in that regard. And that, yeah, what we do shows
- 8:02up on the plate, but who we are is always going to show up.
- 8:06He said something to me years ago, and I'm paraphrasing, and
- 8:10I'm not sure if it's exactly what he said.
- 8:12And that's why I was hoping to get him on the podcast because I
- 8:15remember when he said it, it kind of like made my wheels
- 8:17turn. Like, wait, is, is that true?
- 8:19And he said that the most unsustainable practices in the
- 8:23ocean are better than the most sustainable land practices.
- 8:28Yeah. Because of the amount of
- 8:29resources. You don't, you don't need a you
- 8:30don't need water. You don't need to water the fish
- 8:32for sure. And the amount of water that
- 8:34goes into just growing one vegetable.
- 8:36And I remember when he said that.
- 8:38And again, I might be paraphrasing that.
- 8:40I don't know if that's exactly what he said, but I just
- 8:43remember it blew my mind. But yeah, he's a legend.
- 8:45Shout out to Bart and see. Yeah.
- 8:47Yeah. Yeah, I mean just.
- 8:48So that incorporates into a lot of what you guys do now of.
- 8:51Course, yeah, right. Like I mean we're using some of
- 8:53the first proper farm raised oysters in in the Gulf of
- 8:56Mexico, right. Say it that way.
- 8:58Gulf of Mexico, you know, not that long ago you couldn't have
- 9:04aquaculture and forms of oysters in the Gulf.
- 9:08It was had to be wild caught, right, right, right.
- 9:10Those oysters got a really bad reputation, right?
- 9:13And now people like blackjack points are like our favorite
- 9:16right now. And AJ is doing a badass job
- 9:18doing agriculture with oysters. And those things are not just
- 9:22delicious. Like they rival oysters on the
- 9:25East Coast to me for sure, like in every regard now.
- 9:28And they're coming from the Gulf of Mexico and they're cleaning
- 9:32the water, right? They're doing double duty,
- 9:34right? Like if everyone in Texas ate
- 9:36more oysters like that, we'd be in a great spot.
- 9:39Not to not to get too far off subject, but only because I'm
- 9:43thinking about the two Michelin stars.
- 9:45That was that mini bar. You're the chef there.
- 9:48And now congratulations to you and the entire Emmer and Rye
- 9:52hospitality team, because I don't know if I don't know if
- 9:54I've spoken to Kevin or Tyval or anyone else since the most
- 9:57recent Michelin awards, but you guys cleaned up.
- 10:00Yeah, it wasn't a bad night. Yeah, so Nicosi got a star,
- 10:05Isador got a star and a green star.
- 10:07Plus Emmer has green star and and Hestia also one star.
- 10:13So you're walking away with three stars for the group and
- 10:16two green stars. Is that correct?
- 10:18Yeah, and a couple big gourmands as well for Ladino and then Emer
- 10:24got a big gourmand as well so and couple mentioned so.
- 10:27That's pretty cool. And for people that don't know,
- 10:30you guys are talent packed group.
- 10:34For sure. Yeah, I, I, I said that to Kevin
- 10:37and Tavel both when they've been on the shows.
- 10:38Like, man, there's so much talent in your group.
- 10:41It's it's impressive. It's impressive.
- 10:43But so where I was going with this is OK, so there's chef
- 10:49chatter, chef chatter, right? So, you know, you know, everyone
- 10:51starts talking, everyone has opinions and a lot of people
- 10:54have the opinion of a star in one city is not the same as a
- 10:58star in a in a different city. You've been a two star chef and
- 11:01a one star chef in two different cities, right?
- 11:04What do you, what's your opinion on that?
- 11:08Well. I think the star is the star,
- 11:12right? Like I would put up what we're
- 11:14doing at Nicosi to akin to what we would do at Minibar, right?
- 11:20Like I'm the chef that I am now. I think the The thing is, at the
- 11:27end of the day, there's great food everywhere.
- 11:30There's great chefs everywhere. Getting the recognition is about
- 11:34having the resources, putting the right things in play, right?
- 11:37Like what Kevin Fink is great at.
- 11:38And you know, I talked about this last, last month.
- 11:41I think I was like, Kevin, you're great at putting the
- 11:43right people in the right room together at the right time.
- 11:46That's where the magic happens, right?
- 11:48It is getting talent, getting them the resources to be
- 11:52authentically who they are, right?
- 11:54That shows up with recognition, right.
- 11:59Two stars in DC to me, like, you know, I, I don't know who the
- 12:04first two star restaurant in Texas is going to be.
- 12:09I know that we're not chasing stars, but I know that I also
- 12:13want to be that first two star. Yeah.
- 12:16Right. Were you the first two star in
- 12:17DC? At the same time, the same time
- 12:20it was pineapple and pearls in Washington and us all got two
- 12:25stars. Oh, wow.
- 12:26OK. Yeah.
- 12:26So we, we were, we were in a small rarefied company, but
- 12:31pretty amazing company. Yeah.
- 12:32Great company. Yeah, but yeah, I mean, I mean,
- 12:35back to the difference, right? Yeah.
- 12:36OK, so I'm a young chef in San Antonio, TX, right?
- 12:42I was very fortunate to meet a chef named Bruce Auden at Big on
- 12:46the Banks, and he let me work there in the summers when I was
- 12:48still deciding whether or not I was going to culinary school.
- 12:51That experience I'm still extremely grateful for, and
- 12:54Bruce and I get to chat quite regularly now.
- 12:58But I remember that point where I was like, no, I have to go to
- 13:01New York. Like I have to go somewhere
- 13:04where the level is up here. Otherwise, like, I don't want to
- 13:08half ass this. I want to go 100% in on this
- 13:11dream that I have. And at the time it was like, if
- 13:15that's where all the Michelin star restaurant, that's where
- 13:17all the amazing chefs are, that's where I'm going to learn
- 13:19the most, that's where I want to be.
- 13:22All right? Those options weren't available
- 13:27to us in San Antonio. And not that there weren't great
- 13:29restaurants, but like not at that level, right?
- 13:32Like, and that was, you know, when I started culinary school,
- 13:35that was 2005, something like that, right?
- 13:4020 years later, right? If you're a young chef like I
- 13:43was, or you were thinking about becoming a chef, you don't have
- 13:47to go to New York anymore. You can stay in San Antonio,
- 13:50stay in Austin and go work with Michelin level chefs in Michelin
- 13:55kitchens, right? That's badass.
- 14:00Right, like and and not just Texas, though, but also the
- 14:02South New Orleans, right it, it now opened it up.
- 14:05Atlanta, you don't have to go. Everywhere.
- 14:06So, so if, if we're going to go from this thing of like, well,
- 14:09the real Michelin level restaurants are the ones in
- 14:12these major cities. And it's kind of a shame that's
- 14:14getting watered down by having more guys.
- 14:17Like, that's not being watered down.
- 14:19That's being more equitable, That's opening it up if
- 14:21everywhere has the opportunity to shoot for the same criteria.
- 14:25Right? Like, it's not like New York.
- 14:27Watch out. We're coming for you.
- 14:29It's just like there can be amazing chefs and amazing food
- 14:32in Texas or, you know, Louisiana, just like there can
- 14:36be, I mean, Louisiana, New Orleans.
- 14:38Are you kidding me? Yeah, right.
- 14:39Like one of the greatest food towns in the world.
- 14:42Why shouldn't there be as many stars there as there are in New
- 14:44York? I was talking to someone the
- 14:46other day that's opening a hotel here in Texas and they're
- 14:51talking about the licensed celebrity chef restaurant.
- 14:55And we had this a lot in, in, in, in Dallas.
- 14:59We've had a lot in Houston. We've had it a lot in in Austin,
- 15:02not as much in Austin. But you know, you bring in the
- 15:05big name celebrity chef Michelin level from California or New
- 15:08York, and then they open up their offshoot restaurant in
- 15:11Texas and, and it's usually license based in a hotel and it
- 15:14normally doesn't perform that well.
- 15:16And a lot of the reason is, is sometimes outsiders aren't
- 15:20necessarily welcomed, but to the investment group, the hotel or,
- 15:25you know, whoever, whoever's the money behind it, they just see
- 15:28we we need a Michelin level chef.
- 15:32And this completely changes the game and creates a whole new
- 15:35area of opportunities for chefs. Because now if you are in
- 15:39Atlanta and you're opening a hotel, you don't need to bring
- 15:42in a celebrity chef from, you know, one of the coast.
- 15:45You have Michelin level chefs in Georgia now in Texas, in, you
- 15:49know, in, in the Carolina wherever.
- 15:51And I think that opens up a whole new conversation and areas
- 15:55of opportunity for restaurant groups to scale in ways that
- 15:59maybe they're, they could scale, but eventually they might hit a,
- 16:02a wall of limitation. This is this is a whole new
- 16:04area. And I think it's, I think it's
- 16:06pretty cool and you know, kudos to all you guys with the group
- 16:10because it's pretty impressive. Yeah.
- 16:11I mean, like you mentioned earlier, I mean, it is a team
- 16:14that is stacked like, like no other, right?
- 16:17Like I'm experienced from all over the world, people with
- 16:20different backgrounds, different skill sets that complement each
- 16:24other. Yeah, the team aspect of what we
- 16:28do within 11 restaurants, it's like everybody in the room's a
- 16:32badass. That feels pretty freaking good.
- 16:35Yeah. Is that very good competitive?
- 16:37Ugly. Oh hell yeah, competitive.
- 16:40Of course we're competitive, right?
- 16:42Like one of the, one of the, one of the things we talk about
- 16:45that's really, really fun is expediting a busy service at
- 16:48Emmer and Rye, which like, granted, I'm kind of one of the
- 16:52newbies on the team and some of Kevin's team has been with him
- 16:55for almost a decade, right? And we talk about all the
- 16:58similarities of like how fun and hard it is to Expo at Emmer.
- 17:02You've eaten at Emmer, right? Like, and it's like one of those
- 17:04things where if you're on Expo, you can't, you're not, you're
- 17:08not standing at Expo and just wiping plates and you are
- 17:11moving. It is a full workout and it is a
- 17:15hell of a lot of fun. Yeah.
- 17:17And when we were started getting really busy at Isador, some of
- 17:21those old Emir chefs were like, oh, we're taking turns expoing
- 17:24at Isador after the New York Times article came out.
- 17:27This was right before Michelin. And we're, you know, competing
- 17:30about who's got the best Expo. We could tell the line cooks
- 17:32afterwards, like, do you like me better?
- 17:34Do you like Chef Parker better? And they're like, Chef, we love
- 17:37your energy. You're great.
- 17:38You're like amazing. He's like, but Chef Parker's the
- 17:41best Expo in the company. And you're like, so yeah, we're
- 17:44competitive. Yeah, That's that's kind of hell
- 17:47it goes. What does the creative process
- 17:48look like specifically for you and and the reason I ask
- 17:52specifically for you because I'm sure you know Kevin has his his
- 17:56method to Bella, I'm sure has his method.
- 17:58You have a different method, but a lot of the method, I'm sure
- 18:00that you've it's, it's unique to your personality, but it's also
- 18:04unique to time spent in different kitchens.
- 18:06Yeah, I'm going to use Nikosi as like the reference because
- 18:10that's like the smallest environment that we have 20 seat
- 18:13restaurant tasting many only. And it is to me this little
- 18:17incubator lab of process. Now, when I worked for Jose, I
- 18:24was super, super fortunate to work with two of the best chefs
- 18:28I've ever met in my life, Ruben Garcia and Aitor Zawala.
- 18:32So Itor now has Somni in LA, Three stars.
- 18:36Ruben has his own little restaurant empire in DC now as
- 18:39well, Casa Teresa. But both of them are proper BUI
- 18:44alumni, right? Both did R&D work on both pastry
- 18:49and savory sides. Learning from them is the roots
- 18:54of the methodology that I still use, right.
- 19:00People obviously still look at the Andrea brothers as like this
- 19:03great force. And I think for all the photos
- 19:06and all the food and all the crazy techniques, the process
- 19:10that they had is probably the most impactful for me.
- 19:14And it's something that I still use.
- 19:17And actually it's it's interesting you say like the
- 19:19difference between Kevin Tebel and myself.
- 19:21Like, yeah, we have all differences, but the the, the,
- 19:23the core is where we align. And that's where that magic
- 19:26happens to me. The heart of it on the on the
- 19:31kitchen side is where product meets concept via method and
- 19:37technique. And I don't know, that sounds
- 19:39kind of nerdy and heady. But I'll give you more.
- 19:42Like if you ask Tavelle, like, what's your process and what,
- 19:46what do you what, what is the most important part?
- 19:48He's going to start over here and say what the guest is
- 19:51experiencing is the most important part right now in El
- 19:57Bui language. For on would have called this
- 19:59techno emotive cuisine, right? We're not doing techniques just
- 20:04to do techniques. We're exploring things.
- 20:06But the purpose is to make somebody feel something, to give
- 20:11them an experience that is uniquely belonging to that
- 20:16restaurant, that meal in that moment.
- 20:19That's what Tvell does. All up here, it's brilliant.
- 20:22I mean, the man's a genius for me.
- 20:25I need worksheets, I need laptops, I need research, I need
- 20:30all this stuff to get there. But it starts with
- 20:33conversations, right? So Nkosi, for example, we we set
- 20:37themes for each menu, right? This past summer, our theme was
- 20:42something really fun and playful because it's hot as heck in
- 20:45summer and tends to be a little bit slower in the restaurant.
- 20:47So we really wanted to make sure people were having fun.
- 20:49So it was summertime nostalgia and every course had its own
- 20:53little sub theme under that. And the idea was to make people
- 20:57giggle, right? Make people have a little bit of
- 21:00fun. From there, we take the products
- 21:03that are in season, right? Because Emmer and Rai Group,
- 21:05right, we are 100% looking at where things are coming from.
- 21:10If we can value a product from our region, we're going to
- 21:13always do that first. If our farmers have a potential
- 21:16problem of waste, they need to move something.
- 21:18We are going to use those ingredients every single time,
- 21:22right? So that does some of the work
- 21:23for us honestly, right. Because then you're, you're,
- 21:26you're looking at the product and you're saying, all right,
- 21:28what are we going to do with this, right?
- 21:29Like I will say that from my side, one of my pet peeves and
- 21:33one of the things I just really dislike is when someone says,
- 21:37oh, well, we need a new beet set.
- 21:38Let's put on a new beet dish tomorrow.
- 21:41Let's come in and we're just going to cook it.
- 21:42We're going to put it on. That drives me bananas because
- 21:45you're not getting the most out of that product that way, right?
- 21:49What you should be saying is what do we want someone to feel
- 21:52out of it? Do we want the beet, the beet to
- 21:54have this texture? Do we want it to be smoky, this
- 21:57flavor profile? What do you, what do you want
- 21:58that end result to be? And then are you looking at the
- 22:01techniques and the methods you're using to get there,
- 22:05right? That search is everything to me.
- 22:09And to get there, if you have beets on the menu or you're
- 22:12going to work with beets, you have to look at that beat like
- 22:15you've never seen a beat before, right?
- 22:18Jose used to do this thing. Like we would go out to the
- 22:20farmers market and he would grab a tomato.
- 22:23And like there's a film of him, I think, doing this with
- 22:24Bourdain where he looks at the tomato.
- 22:27And I'm not going to do a fake Spanish accent because of that.
- 22:30I won't do it accurately enough. But he would look at the tomato
- 22:33and be like tomato, what do you want to be today?
- 22:37And that, like Zen mind, beginner's mind thing is just so
- 22:42incredibly important because then you're going to start
- 22:45exploring methods, right? Like stick with a beet, for
- 22:48example. Are you burying it in the
- 22:49hearth? Are you putting it in the oven?
- 22:52Are you cooking it in beet juice?
- 22:53Are you doing an SUV bag, right? Are you doing partial steam dry
- 22:57heat, like all those infinite variations?
- 23:00That's all technique, right? The method is the method, right?
- 23:04Like so when I say if you're going to braise something,
- 23:08right, a braise is a brace, right?
- 23:11That that method has a language that we all as chefs know what
- 23:15it is. Now you can do a braise on a
- 23:16stove top, you can do a braise in an oven, you can do a braise
- 23:20in a sous video bag. That's all technique.
- 23:22The little equipment that you're using to get there, that's where
- 23:28the fun stuff is. But everybody thinks like, OK,
- 23:31yeah, you're having all the fun with R&D.
- 23:33Like there's a whole part of it that's not fun too.
- 23:37Like it's extremely methodical. All right, we tried that one.
- 23:40We tried that one. We tried that one.
- 23:43Where is the point where you're like, wow, this is special?
- 23:46That's the point you have to look for.
- 23:49Can I interrupt? Please.
- 23:51How do you how do you go around doing that process?
- 23:57So if, if you are working and I'm just, let's just use the
- 24:00beat as the example. You have some beats and you're
- 24:02like, I want to maximize the flavor of this beat and I'm I'm
- 24:06going to go through different iterations of the beat.
- 24:09You talked about spreadsheets and laptops.
- 24:13What do you do? So let's.
- 24:14Like like walk us through that. We have a lot.
- 24:17And again, it's it comes from Wii world, right?
- 24:19Like features or worksheets. So for every ingredient that
- 24:24comes in, we create a separate worksheet.
- 24:26I'm saying these are the characteristics.
- 24:27It's like a product spec sheet, right?
- 24:29And that's not a new thing for chefs.
- 24:31But then it's like, alright, I cooked the beets in water, I
- 24:35cooked them dry, I cooked them in beet juice.
- 24:38Peeled, not peeled. All of those things get a
- 24:41different worksheet and we file them all away so that next year
- 24:46when beets come in season, OK, I'm gonna beets pretty much all
- 24:49time right 'cause that's celery. Yeah.
- 24:52It's maybe like the worst. Example, we'll put strawberries
- 24:55and goat cheese on it, right? Well.
- 24:58That's, that's exactly it, right?
- 25:00Like that's what we want to avoid, right?
- 25:02What we want to avoid is we're gonna put on a beet dish and
- 25:05it's gonna have goat cheese and strawberries and fennel fronds.
- 25:09Those tertiary flavors like making something taste good.
- 25:12That should be the easy part, right?
- 25:14If you're a chef and you're good at your shit, making something
- 25:18tasty should be assumed, especially at our level.
- 25:21Yeah, yeah, right. We're not serving not delicious
- 25:24food. That's not an option, right.
- 25:27The the clever part and the part that is really the most magical
- 25:31is when you get to that point of trying all those different
- 25:34things and you're like, hey, well, this is this is unique.
- 25:38I haven't had a beat like this before, right.
- 25:42And whether or not that's nichitimalizing the beat and
- 25:44then roasting it, what whatever it is for you and your team that
- 25:49lets you say something in the end product, that's where people
- 25:53are going to respond to it. That's where the real fun is.
- 25:55Now, again, recording all the data is important.
- 25:59Collaboration is the other part and the reason why we really use
- 26:03all of those sheets and all of these things.
- 26:05It's not to just make more work for ourselves because it's
- 26:09cumbersome, it's hard. It's so that teens can
- 26:12collaborate, so that if I'm working on this new technique of
- 26:17beats, whatever form it is, that Paul Wenzel, the head chef at
- 26:22Hestia, can in our Google Drive see those results and be like,
- 26:27huh, cool. Maybe I can use that.
- 26:30Or even better, he can be like, you know what, chef, you should
- 26:33try this. And maybe he unlocks something
- 26:36that we don't know, right? That ability to collaborate only
- 26:40comes if you're extremely organized.
- 26:44And like we said, like we have all that talent.
- 26:47It would be silly for me to be like, all right, me, Jorge, I'm
- 26:50going to work on a beet dish and I'm going to assume that I'm
- 26:53going to get it to 100% perfect Michelin star level all by
- 26:57myself. That's arrogant as fuck when I
- 27:02could say I'm going to give it to Danny Prado to taste.
- 27:05I'm going to give it to Tavel to taste.
- 27:07I'm going to give it to our porters to taste, right?
- 27:10They're going to give me feedback.
- 27:12I need that data because they're going to tell me something that
- 27:15maybe I hadn't thought of, but if I'm already set in, this is
- 27:19the way the dish is going to look.
- 27:21These are the tertiary flavors that are going to garnishes.
- 27:25I'm I'm, I'm skipping over the best part.
- 27:29I'm, I'm pigeonholing myself into something that maybe could
- 27:33have been a lot better, right? I'll give you a specific example
- 27:36for Narosi, right? We had for a very short period
- 27:40of time white sweet potatoes and initially we were going to do
- 27:46like a fried, almost like savory snack with these beets.
- 27:50So we get in an S peeler and start shaving up cooking beets
- 27:53different way. And we, we literally Tibel and I
- 27:57pick up the sheet, we look at it and you see all these little
- 27:59striations in it. We're like, that's beautiful.
- 28:01Let's do something with that. Like let's just let's play
- 28:03around with it. So we had poached them, we had
- 28:06steamed them. We tried cooking it like phyllo
- 28:10dough and I put some in the oven that had been soaked in a little
- 28:16bit of like Moby bark syrup, just really bitter tree
- 28:19ingredient, kind of like cinnamon from, from Guyana,
- 28:22where Chef Tavella's from. One of the most delicious things
- 28:25you'll ever have, intensely bitter, right?
- 28:28So a little bit goes a long way. I pop these bad boys in the oven
- 28:31and then Tavella and I are doing our thing.
- 28:32We're brainstorming, we're talking and I'm like, oh shit, I
- 28:35I forgot about them, right? I didn't set my timer or
- 28:37whatever, whatever the heck. I go out and pull them out and
- 28:40I, you know, lift up the sill pad and they're they're dark.
- 28:44They're dark and I'm like, fuck. Well, these are burnt.
- 28:46So to kind of like hide my mistake, I start peeling them
- 28:49off because I don't want chef to see it right.
- 28:52And then I realized I'm like, oh, this textures cool.
- 28:56What was the texture? It was like it was still
- 28:59pliable, right, 'cause there's enough residual starch in, in,
- 29:02in the sweet potato. But we had also like let it soak
- 29:05in syrup. So then by the time I finished
- 29:07rolling it, it got super crispy, like perfectly crispy.
- 29:13And because I had kind of like put it in this Moby bark and let
- 29:17it go maybe a little too far, it looked exactly like a cinnamon
- 29:21stick. Like exactly.
- 29:23So mobbie bark looks like cinnamon stick.
- 29:27This little accident that I had looked like a cinnamon stick.
- 29:31I go and I show it to Tavel and he eats it and he's like, I'm
- 29:35like, it's maybe a little bit too bitter.
- 29:36He's like, not for the bitter course.
- 29:38It's not right, 'cause we, we have an entire course in Akosi
- 29:41that's devoted to the bitter taste profile.
- 29:44And then I eat 1, he eats one again.
- 29:46We don't say anything for a couple minutes and we're both
- 29:49smiling. And that's that magical part
- 29:52that I'm talking about. When you can find that wow part
- 29:56of a product to a technique, then coming up with the dish is
- 30:00so easy, right? We dusted it with a little bit
- 30:02of cacao powder, a little bit more spices, and then I made
- 30:05like a sweet potato toffee, aerated it, piped it in the
- 30:08middle and served it like you were biting into a cinnamon
- 30:11stick. And it was one of the most
- 30:12intense, delicious bites we had on that menu.
- 30:16And it's coming from exploration.
- 30:18It's coming from allowing yourself to realize, hey, that
- 30:21this little thing that's not a dish yet has got potential.
- 30:27Let's fuck around with that, right?
- 30:29Like when you see myself been our R&D chef, Danny, our our
- 30:36corporate chef in San Antonio, director of restaurants to Bell,
- 30:39when we're cooking and just messing with things, it's kind
- 30:43of chaotic, right? And then we have to reorganize
- 30:45cells every day. But there's at least a few spots
- 30:48in each one of those days where we're giving each other
- 30:50something to taste. And we're like, no, yeah, this,
- 30:52this is something, maybe we don't know what it is yet, but
- 30:56this is something. And that I feel like is, again,
- 30:59it's the organization, it's the collaboration, it's the
- 31:01language, right? I think what we do really well
- 31:04is we give ourselves a language on how to talk about creating
- 31:08dishes, right? And then you have somebody like
- 31:11Duval that's like, all right, well, what is the guest
- 31:13experiencing? Because you can't forget that
- 31:14part, right? And it's not that different.
- 31:18Like, you know, Itor and Ruben used to do the same thing.
- 31:21Can can you talk about the language?
- 31:22You said? Yeah, sure.
- 31:23You said we give ourselves a language.
- 31:24For sure. So, so there's the idea.
- 31:27And actually this came about when I was at Minibar.
- 31:31A roommate of mine for a little bit was an engineer at Johnson
- 31:35Space Center and he was up in DC just doing an extra course.
- 31:39And he was telling me about NASA's criteria or stage
- 31:44development criteria. When they're developing a new
- 31:47technology, they, they do it in stages and they set exit
- 31:51criteria for each stage, right? Like, and, and they, I think
- 31:56they have like 9 stages, right? We started saying like, well,
- 32:00how do we, how do we know that something is good at each of
- 32:03these levels so we don't waste our time?
- 32:06You have to start asking yourselves questions and those
- 32:09answers are what give us the language.
- 32:11So if we talk about themes or things that we want people to
- 32:15feel experiences, sorry, I'm switching sides and I was
- 32:18experiences over here. And then we have some kind of
- 32:23end goals. So there's some criteria there
- 32:26on that emotive side, right? We then know again, the products
- 32:31that are coming in from the farms because like, it's not
- 32:33like, oh, it'd be great if we could buy, you know, yuzu from
- 32:37Japan because that's not an option for us in Emmer and Rye
- 32:39Group, right? We just, we take that off the
- 32:41tape. Once we have those themes, we
- 32:44have some things we want to say. It's brainstorming.
- 32:46Can I go back? Yeah, please.
- 32:48When you say you can't buy yuzu from Japan, it's not an option
- 32:50for the Emmer and Rye group. Can you tell people why?
- 32:53Because we are always going to try to put our food purchasing
- 32:57dollars back into our immediate community.
- 33:01And we're pretty transparent about it, right?
- 33:03It's, I mean, farm to table's not new, right?
- 33:05It's, it's a thing. I know all restaurants are like
- 33:07that. We just put certain limits on
- 33:10ourselves, right? And, and every restaurant in the
- 33:12group's got slightly different criteria, right?
- 33:15If you're Isidor, everything in that restaurant with the
- 33:18exception of on the beverage side, like the wine side needs
- 33:22to be coming from a small independent regional producer in
- 33:25Texas, right? And that means they don't use
- 33:27black pepper, right? Instead, they use Vitex plant,
- 33:32right? Something that our chef's
- 33:33cuisine goes out and forages. So like the little flowers?
- 33:37Yeah, well, this is actually the the little Berry on it that we
- 33:40then harvest when they're green and then dry to use like
- 33:43peppercorns. OK, you know that's a very Noma
- 33:46answer. Which is like a a Texas plant
- 33:49that you guys are foraging. Yeah, Yeah.
- 33:50So wherever we can, we do that right?
- 33:52The vanilla bean like Develle would be like, all right, no
- 33:54vanilla, no problem. Mesquite bean baby.
- 33:56You know it's delicious and it's a pre precursor pregenitor to
- 34:00vanilla bean, right? Like they're all from the
- 34:02Central Valley of Mexico. Do you ever and I'm just kind of
- 34:06making this up, are there exceptions?
- 34:07There are definitely exceptions, right?
- 34:09So Nkosi, there has to be, right?
- 34:11Like chocolate doesn't grow in Texas.
- 34:12Right. Which is, which is why I was
- 34:14asking about that. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 34:16For sure, Hestia has certain exceptions.
- 34:18Kanji obviously has exceptions because it's Caribbean food they
- 34:21need. They need things from the
- 34:22Caribbean, right? Emmer and Rye and Isidor are the
- 34:252 that are probably the most stringent.
- 34:27Hestia is a close third. At the end of the day, it's,
- 34:31it's about, I mean, pulling market, right?
- 34:33Same thing. It's it's about giving more
- 34:37credence and giving more value to things that maybe people
- 34:40don't even know grow in Texas, right?
- 34:43Nikosi during apple season, we always have an apple dish on in
- 34:46a different form, right? Drastically different apple
- 34:49dishes. But the majority of people don't
- 34:52think of Texas as a state that even grows apples.
- 34:56Yeah, I don't. Up in Idolu, Texas, top of
- 34:59Texas, they make. Are they good?
- 35:00They're. Delicious.
- 35:02What? What are they similar?
- 35:03To so they have evercrisps or Evercrisps are off off the
- 35:06chain. Their Fugees are great.
- 35:09They're, you know, like any, like any other small producing
- 35:13region, right? Like there's a year where like,
- 35:15hey, the Granny Smiths aren't our favorite.
- 35:17This one's our favorite. This is what we're going to use
- 35:19and focus on. But at least for for us at Emmer
- 35:23and Rye Group, we are always going to be supporting that farm
- 35:26with our food purchasing dollars.
- 35:27Because if we don't, then what incentive is for those farmers
- 35:31to keep trying to grow more? We can always bemoan the fact
- 35:35that California's got better growing seasons, better regions,
- 35:39But if we're not putting our dollars or guest dollars and
- 35:43translating that into pockets of farmers, then what motivation do
- 35:47they have to keep growing cool shit for us, right?
- 35:50That's that's really the heart of it.
- 35:52Selfishly, as a chef, we want more local farms growing more
- 35:56amazing things. Yeah, right.
- 35:58Speckled Belly Farm just east of San Antonio is growing finger
- 36:03limes in their hot house right now.
- 36:05Right. They're freaking delicious.
- 36:07They're growing lime plots for us like citrus season.
- 36:10It's like popping off. And right now they can only grow
- 36:13this tiny amount, But if we're like, all right, well, that's
- 36:17not enough for us. And we had we it's not we need
- 36:19to supplement it with ones from California or wherever else, you
- 36:22know, those those finger lines are coming from.
- 36:24And I'm not giving them those dollars.
- 36:27Then what incentive do they have to keep going, keep upping that
- 36:30production so that more people can buy it, right?
- 36:33And that's what, that's why Pullman Market exists, right?
- 36:35It's we've all had those experiences where you go to a
- 36:38restaurant and someone's like, oh, this is a heritage Dirac
- 36:41pork that only we get from this small farm.
- 36:45And that's a really romantic story.
- 36:48You know what's a hell of a lot cooler is when you can tell a
- 36:51guest this is the best pork that we can get in our region.
- 36:54It's delicious. You're gonna love it.
- 36:56And you know what? You can go 100 feet that way to
- 36:59a butcher shop that only gets in whole animals from the exact
- 37:02same farm and you can buy the exact same products and you can
- 37:06go cook with it at home, right? That starts to imprint in our
- 37:11guests minds. These products are of value and
- 37:15it's OK for me to pay more for them, right?
- 37:17Because we know where it's going.
- 37:20In in your job, because I know we talked a lot about the
- 37:23creative process and the R&D, but there's also an aspect of
- 37:27the operational R&D. So OK, now, now you now you've
- 37:31created the dish and you can execute it for one, right?
- 37:33And the group likes it. Now how do you how do you scale
- 37:35it to Emmer and Rye doing 100? Yeah, you know, or hundreds of
- 37:39covers. So again, like, and part of the
- 37:41reason we document so much is because maybe that technique
- 37:47that turns into that dish, maybe you have to be clever and be
- 37:50like, all right, we can do this at Nkosi where we know we're
- 37:52only served 20 of them at a time, you know, 40 a night.
- 37:56That's manageable. But if we were to serve it at
- 37:58Kanji that does, you know, 405 hundred covers, probably not
- 38:03going to work, but at least not the way I described that that
- 38:07roll of that sweet potato. But the idea of taking this
- 38:11specific sweet potato that has this enough residual starch and
- 38:15sugar to get this texture. I could say Bake Off sheets of
- 38:18it and use it on top of tartar or a crisp or make a like a play
- 38:22on a mil FUI with it on a pastry side.
- 38:25Right. There's adaptations.
- 38:27So great concept, technique work Shouldn't create one dish.
- 38:33It should create a crap ton of dishes, right?
- 38:35Like I've talked about him before, but saw me Itor.
- 38:39Itor is probably the best at this I've ever seen in my life.
- 38:43When he finds a concept technique that is of value, he
- 38:47doesn't make just one dish on it, run it for a while, and then
- 38:50retire it. He makes iteration after
- 38:52iteration after iteration. He finds his voice that way.
- 38:56That's why his food is so compelling.
- 38:58He's dialed in, he knows exactly who he is.
- 39:02He knows exactly what he wants to get out of the food.
- 39:05He knows what you he wants you to get out of the food and he's
- 39:08constantly tweaking that part of it.
- 39:12That's that's so freaking cool to me.
- 39:15Now, if you're doing again, you're doing high cover counts.
- 39:18Maybe that final dish isn't the element that's most important,
- 39:22but that technique is, right. Like show at Kanji for New
- 39:28Year's Eve. They're they were doing a
- 39:29coconut, coconut mousse. Coconut air, right?
- 39:32Sure. Foam.
- 39:34You know I hate that term. But.
- 39:37Bubbles, bubbles, air. The technique is called air, not
- 39:41foam, right? Like it's important.
- 39:43The distinction language is important, right?
- 39:47It he was like, hey, I want to do this.
- 39:49Like how do how do I do it? Do I use egg white?
- 39:51Do I use whatever? I'm like, I'm like Poppy here.
- 39:53Here's the ratio. Here's the guy.
- 39:54This is what you need. That's a pretty high end
- 39:58technique to take a sucrose. Sucrose esters make an emulsion
- 40:02bubble that get all these really fine airs, something like
- 40:06coconuts actually kind of tough because of the fat content.
- 40:09And it worked. And he did it for however many
- 40:11400 people or whatever they served on New Year's Eve, right?
- 40:15Just because you're doing high volume doesn't mean you can't
- 40:18have that great R&D part. I think maybe I want to think
- 40:24about it a little bit of a different way, though.
- 40:27How do you, so you have this, this technique or this recipe or
- 40:31whatever. How do you then scale it to the
- 40:33person who doesn't know how to do it at all?
- 40:34So I'm, I'm talking about the entry level line cook that, that
- 40:38that is now doesn't even know the difference between an air
- 40:42and a phone because they didn't even know that that even
- 40:45existed, right. So they're, they're super green.
- 40:47How do you scale some of these techniques to some of the more
- 40:49novices in a training program? Yeah, development in training is
- 40:56important, right? Like, and this is kind of, this
- 40:58is definitely an advantage that we have as a restaurant group.
- 41:01Yeah, because, you know, specifically around mentorship,
- 41:03because I'm sure there's a big mentorship component.
- 41:04Totally. How do you take a green cook?
- 41:06Because we were all there at 1:00.
- 41:07Point. Yeah, no, totally.
- 41:09How do you go from there to there?
- 41:10So, so this is this is awesome because actually there's there's
- 41:13there's a chef that we have at Emmer and Rye that reminds me so
- 41:16much of how I was when I was a young chef as well.
- 41:19Like I would like Ruben used to call me Jimmy Neutron because I
- 41:23was as a kid reading all the books being like, oh, I want to
- 41:25try this technique. I want to do this.
- 41:27And he's like, you know, whoa, whoa, whoa, right.
- 41:29You need to learn this part first, right?
- 41:31You want to make an air out of this rusty to this excavage.
- 41:34And like, no, you need to learn how to make the rusty first.
- 41:37I was like Catalan chicken juice essentially, right?
- 41:42That's that's important, right? Like the basics are important,
- 41:44right? Like people ask me like, what's
- 41:46your favorite book? Is it like, should I buy the boy
- 41:48book? I'm like, no, go buy Jacques
- 41:50Pepin first. Yeah, go buy Larousse
- 41:52Gastronomique first. Because if you don't know all
- 41:54that stuff, you're not, you're not going to get this other
- 41:57stuff, right? It's just not going to happen,
- 42:00right? If you don't have sabayon ratios
- 42:03off the top of your head, you don't know what to look for.
- 42:06You don't know what your temperature ranges are.
- 42:07You're going to have a hard time cooking the stuff that I'm going
- 42:10to ask you to cook, right? So the beauty that we have at,
- 42:15at in our group is that we have #1 mini restaurants, like 11
- 42:20restaurants plus Pullman Market. So if you're hungry, you want to
- 42:25learn how to cook. Yeah, maybe you're starting in
- 42:28one of the QSRS at Pullman Market and you're learning a
- 42:31proper roast chicken or you're learning how to make chicken
- 42:34stock in the back. And they, I mean, they make it
- 42:36it, you know, hundreds of liters at a time, right?
- 42:39Because they, we only get in whole animals.
- 42:41So you got to do something with all that, all the, all those
- 42:43bones, right? They're learning how to render
- 42:45tallow, right? It the, the chef that manages
- 42:49that team was a former chef to cuisine Emmer and Ryan.
- 42:52He's been with Kevin for over 10 years.
- 42:55He knows how to identify talent. He's the guy that's saying, all
- 42:58right, this person, he's been with us for six months and he's
- 43:01kicking ass or hey, chef, this this chef over here, she keeps
- 43:07asking about Nkosi. You should talk to her about it.
- 43:10Right? Like, that's the part that is
- 43:12not just mentorship, but it's like getting them excited about
- 43:15it, right? Like, it's like that Thomas
- 43:16Keller idea of like, if you can't get excited about peeling
- 43:19carrots, you're you're not gonna make it over here, Right.
- 43:22And it's one of those things that, like, part of the
- 43:24mentorship is, yeah, get your team excited about peeling
- 43:27carrots and be like, this is the best way that we know to do this
- 43:31and see how they run with it. Because chances are they're
- 43:34going to. Maybe they'll learn a better
- 43:35way. Maybe they'll show us something,
- 43:38right? Getting them through those
- 43:41different departments, right? Like, you can't run Emmer and
- 43:45rye if you haven't slung a lot of pasta, right?
- 43:49If you don't love sourdough bread, right?
- 43:52Alexa Mejia, who's in my opinion, probably one of the
- 43:56greatest, if not the best chefs running a kitchen in Austin, TX.
- 44:01She can make bread in her sleep. She can, you know, work with
- 44:05pasta. She can.
- 44:07I mean, she does it all right. And she's not just doing that
- 44:13because she's that good. She's showing teammates that
- 44:17some of them have only been cooking for six months, a year.
- 44:20She's showing them the things that she's learned, right?
- 44:23Like that, that, that mentorship, that apprenticeship,
- 44:26however you want to call it massive, massive.
- 44:31That doesn't go away. Even if we first heady as that
- 44:34conversation was earlier, you still need that, right?
- 44:36Like at the end of the day, for at least especially for us 11
- 44:39restaurants, if we're not in the talent development business as
- 44:42much as we are the restaurant business, who's going to run
- 44:45these restaurants? Who's going to staff these
- 44:47restaurants? And like, you know, like Kevin
- 44:49talked in when he was here with you, right?
- 44:51Like, well, what happens when like this crop of amazing talent
- 44:54you have ages out, right? Like we don't want restaurants
- 44:59that are going to be around for until Kevin retires.
- 45:02We want restaurants that are going to continue to have impact
- 45:04in our community over and over generation and generation.
- 45:08So seeing the next ones come up, right, like Maximiliano, the
- 45:12cook that I was thinking about from Emma and Rye, you know, his
- 45:17first few weeks, he was that kind of chef that was like, oh,
- 45:20chef, what have we tried this chef?
- 45:21What have you tried this? And I'm like, yeah, dude, all
- 45:23right, all right, you know, don't go, don't get in the weeds
- 45:26first on gourmand J. And then, you know, we can talk
- 45:29about, you know what, what ideas you have for the menu, right?
- 45:33But the fact matter is now I am so excited to taste when he has
- 45:37a new dish because number one, I know he's put in the work.
- 45:42Number 2, I know it's going to be delicious #3 I know he's
- 45:47going to take my feedback and not have an ego about it.
- 45:52He's going to learn, he's going to adjust, and his food is going
- 45:55to get better. If you're not all about that is
- 46:01a chef, why? Why are you a chef?
- 46:04So I have an interesting question for you because you've
- 46:09been a chef at different types of restaurants.
- 46:11So mini bar tea, Emma and Rai, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a
- 46:17couple, Emma was the the carpenter's hall, Carpenter's
- 46:22hall, right? And all of these have a
- 46:23completely different style of cooking.
- 46:26Not just completely different style of cooking, but a
- 46:27completely different style of service.
- 46:29Probably ethos around the menu. When you go to each one as the
- 46:34head chef, do you take the same approach or do you do you do
- 46:41you? I, I, what's the what's the what
- 46:43do the kids say to do you code switch, right?
- 46:45I think that's what the slang is.
- 46:47So I mean, sometimes, yeah, right.
- 46:49Like, I mean, again, like if I'm, if I'm going up to one of
- 46:54the QSRS at Pullman Market, right?
- 46:57And I, I want to, I see somebody toasting bread for a sandwich or
- 47:01something like that, right. And I'm like, all right, there's
- 47:03definitely a better way to do that.
- 47:05Let me go give them some advice, right?
- 47:08I'm not gonna be like, hey, what's your concept, technique
- 47:10search to this young cook? Right, right.
- 47:13I'm gonna be like, hey, like, you know, what are you smelling?
- 47:16Like what, what colors are you looking for?
- 47:18I want to appeal to their sense of taste memory, right?
- 47:22Like if they can learn what this is supposed to smell like, what
- 47:25it sound like when it's on the griddle, all those things that
- 47:29we consider experience or intuition as a chef, people are
- 47:33like, oh, you have natural talents or you have this
- 47:35intuition as a cook. Bullshit.
- 47:37You learn it, right? And you need somebody to teach
- 47:39you what it is, right? And it's like, all right, if
- 47:42you're toasting this bread and you're making 30 sandwiches,
- 47:44probably the best advice I could give a cook like that.
- 47:46I'm like, make one, let's eat it.
- 47:49What do you love about this? Right?
- 47:51Meeting chefs where they are through that way, then they're
- 47:55going to be like, oh cool, I'm going to pay attention when I'm
- 47:58toasting the bread and I'm going to get to this golden brown
- 48:00every single time. You're giving them quality
- 48:03criteria, but you're connecting into something that's visceral,
- 48:07something that they create a memory based out of, right?
- 48:10So the next time I go to that sandwich, I get a sandwich.
- 48:13I'm like, chef, this is a fucking good sandwich, right?
- 48:16Then they capture that win, right?
- 48:20That gives them buy in. Yeah, when I would, when I would
- 48:23train people, I would always, you know, try and hit one of
- 48:25their senses because, you know, we're all either, you know, as
- 48:27auditory, kinesthetic visual learners.
- 48:30So what you're talking about, eat the sandwich.
- 48:32What do you taste? You know, do you taste this?
- 48:34OK, close your eyes. Now look at it.
- 48:36Smell it. Like if you could, if you could
- 48:38connect with as many of those senses as possible, for sure the
- 48:42greater likelihood of them retaining it.
- 48:44But what's really interesting about this?
- 48:46I saw this this video 'cause I don't know, I've been talking to
- 48:49people. It's like time just seems to go
- 48:50by faster now. It's like it's.
- 48:52Already it's. Already like what happened and
- 48:55and there's this mundane thing that they talk about where if
- 48:59when you do mundane things every day and you repeat them every
- 49:03day, your brain starts deleting it because it's not new.
- 49:07But when you introduce something new, your brain will retain it
- 49:09because it's almost like it breaks the pattern.
- 49:10Or, or I mean, and let me let me challenge a little bit or you
- 49:15create ritual with that mundane. Yeah, right.
- 49:19I mean, that's, that's that's why we have things like
- 49:22meditation. That's why people pray.
- 49:24That's what part of that power is that you, you create a ritual
- 49:29out of something that is mundane, right?
- 49:31It it may be mundane to take time out of your day and just
- 49:34think about what you're grateful for, right?
- 49:36That's not a super complicated thing.
- 49:38It's a beautiful thing to do, sure.
- 49:39But if you create a certain time, you create an environment
- 49:42for it, you light a candle, you go to a specific place, right?
- 49:46That's ritual that gives it meaning, right?
- 49:48Even if it's just for you, right.
- 49:50And if you can share that with people, that that's really
- 49:52awesome. But you know what I mean?
- 49:53What I love about food is, yeah, food's mundane.
- 49:56You have to eat. You have to pick something to
- 49:59eat. But food is also transcendent,
- 50:02right? It can take you back to a memory
- 50:04from when you're a child. It can take you to a new place
- 50:06you've never been. You time travel with it.
- 50:09You totally. Can, right, time truly is
- 50:11relative, right? Like it's, it's so, you know,
- 50:13like hot take, right? Like we don't have phones in
- 50:16Nkosi when we open Nkosi, that pissed people off, right?
- 50:22And it's not because we don't want people to see the dishes.
- 50:25It's because we want to create a bit of ritual.
- 50:28Like it's theater. We're putting a lot of work into
- 50:30this. We want you to be present here,
- 50:33right? It is not something mundane,
- 50:37right? Like the world is so complex.
- 50:40There's so much nuance to it. We're all carrying around all
- 50:43these different things. And then it's like tapping into
- 50:45like what Tabel probably talked about, I think when he was on
- 50:48your podcast. It's like I don't want people to
- 50:51have to bring that trauma with them when they sit down at our
- 50:54table, right? I want them to believe that
- 50:56outside and part of that for us is like that's why we asked them
- 51:00to put the phones away because we want you here with us.
- 51:04But I creating that sense memories massive.
- 51:07This is the point that I'm trying to make is that they're
- 51:09so used to having their phone with them all the time,
- 51:11everywhere that they go and eat and they're used to snapping a
- 51:15photo and texting and not paying attention to what's in front of
- 51:18them. But the second that you remove
- 51:19the phone, it introduces a it's like rewiring the brain because
- 51:22this is new information. I have to be fully present.
- 51:25And how that applies to the mundane task of making a
- 51:30sandwich every day. And you've been making it and
- 51:33you've been over toasting the bread and you've been making it
- 51:35for the last three years over toasting the bread.
- 51:37And then here comes chef and says, hey, hold on, make it.
- 51:40Taste it now let's toast a little less.
- 51:42Taste it again. Yeah, It's a new memory and it
- 51:44rewires you to it's almost like a pattern disruptor for new
- 51:48growth. I mean, it's like a a branch in
- 51:50the in the in the learning spectrum.
- 51:52It's neuroplasticity, Yeah, exactly right.
- 51:54Like the like chefs like have reputations of being stuck in
- 51:58their ways. Like, I mean, one of the reasons
- 52:00I think I actually like working at multiple different
- 52:02restaurants. And I, I think, you know, Kevin
- 52:05and Tavella and I are similar in this.
- 52:06And most of our chefs are, is like, we want that challenge,
- 52:10all right? Like we don't, we, we don't want
- 52:11that stagnation, even if we were doing the same thing over and
- 52:15over again, right? Like Caccio Pepe at Emmer hasn't
- 52:17changed 10 years, right, since Kevin first came up with it.
- 52:21When to do a Caccio Pepe perfectly.
- 52:24You kind of got to think of it like the first time because
- 52:27every time you're giving it that flop, every time you're doing
- 52:29twirl in the back of your head, you're like, oh shit, oh, shit,
- 52:32Don't fuck it up. Don't fuck it up.
- 52:33I love that about Cookie. Yeah.
- 52:35It's like when you're making a bur Blanc, It's like, all right,
- 52:37granted, you and I can can make a bur Blanc in our sleep or we
- 52:41could break a bur Blanc and fix it.
- 52:43But I love that intensity of being in a kitchen where it's
- 52:46like, you don't want to mess it up.
- 52:48You don't want to break the sauce.
- 52:50Like that, that that thing of like that push and anxiety.
- 52:55I love it. Yeah.
- 52:57It's what makes it mundane and it's something that I think is
- 53:00cool. Yeah, it's, it's, it's it's
- 53:02almost like you need both You, you, you need the ritual, you
- 53:04need the repetition, you need the reps to get good at
- 53:07something. But when you've been doing
- 53:10something for so long, you might not notice until someone comes
- 53:12and says, hey, just do this. And then all of a sudden, boom,
- 53:15Yeah, I mean new opportunities of.
- 53:17Yeah, it's, it's being in the moment.
- 53:18It's being open, it's being on. It's, yeah, all the things that
- 53:21we want people to do in their actual lives, too.
- 53:23Right. Yeah.
- 53:24It's, it's cooking the sweet potato a little too long.
- 53:25Yeah, right. It's like boom now all of a
- 53:27sudden. Yeah.
- 53:28Yeah, mess up a bunch, right? Like what young chef doesn't
- 53:32mess up a lot? You know, it's, it's funny, one
- 53:35of the things that I think that we do well is the culinary
- 53:39community. And I think it's getting better
- 53:41because I think when we were coming up, it was siloed a
- 53:44little bit. There was still, you know, it
- 53:46was very clicky and a year from this click or a year from that
- 53:48click. And there was information that
- 53:53was retained with certain camps and, and certain groups.
- 53:57I think it's much more transparent.
- 53:59I think, you know, open source, open source recipes, information
- 54:02exchange. It's, it's there.
- 54:03And what I think is really cool for people that don't know is
- 54:07going back, I don't know, maybe two months ago we were at Emmer
- 54:11and it was International Chef's Day.
- 54:14Oh yeah, it was. The day that Ron was there.
- 54:15Yeah, so I'm thinking about like, you were there.
- 54:19Yeah. Kevin was there, Ron was there,
- 54:21I was there, Gabe was there, Jacob was there, Dan Kennedy was
- 54:25there. And it's like, and then
- 54:27afterwards everyone just goes out there and and shoots the
- 54:30ship. Yeah.
- 54:30Talks. It was awesome.
- 54:32And I love that now because I feel like the chef community is
- 54:35so much more open and inviting and inclusive than than than
- 54:40it's probably ever been. You know, I think, I think.
- 54:42And it'll only get better, but I love that.
- 54:45No, I, I, I agree with you. I mean, I, I think there there
- 54:47was, and maybe it's a part of like competition as chefs.
- 54:51Like, I mean, I know definitely when I was on the East Coast,
- 54:53there was that like a there that type of restaurant or this type
- 54:56of restaurant, right? I think there's always mutual
- 55:00respect generally. But I think I agree with you.
- 55:05I feel like now, and maybe it is just because of how open things
- 55:09are, social media, whatever, it's like you don't cook
- 55:13anything like me. And maybe there's a part of me
- 55:18that's like looks down on you, but I don't think that's really
- 55:20the case anymore. I think it's more like you don't
- 55:22cook like me and I can still celebrate the fact that you
- 55:25don't cook like me. And it's not a challenge to how
- 55:27good my cooking is or how I do it.
- 55:32Yeah, I will say in DC, like, and we talked about Barton,
- 55:35like, I feel like DC was kind of always that way, like because it
- 55:39was such a tight knit community. I mean, DC is relatively small.
- 55:44I feel like everybody was cool with each other, right?
- 55:47Like competitive chefs. Yeah, we were competitive, but
- 55:53those were my friends, right? Aaron Silverman or Pineapple and
- 55:55Pearl, like we would just shoot the shit together.
- 55:58Yeah, she's awesome. I I, I do think chefs are, are
- 56:02more and more that way. And that's one of the reasons
- 56:04why, like at least Emer and Rye are our guest chef series.
- 56:09We called it breaking bread because we didn't want it to be
- 56:12a sales driver for us. We wanted it to be like, if the
- 56:16heart of what this restaurant is is bread and pasta, sharing
- 56:20meals together, making people feel good, we want to do that
- 56:23with people that we respect. Sometimes they're our friends,
- 56:27sometimes they were our mentors, right?
- 56:29Like Alexa and Bryce cooking together in the same kitchen was
- 56:33epic, right? Having Ron come in from the
- 56:38great, the great White N was epic, right?
- 56:43Like nobody had ever cooked like that in that kitchen.
- 56:46Ron did, and it was awesome. It was great.
- 56:50Those are experiences that are as much for our guests as they
- 56:54are for our teams. It's like you're bringing the
- 56:56stage to them, yeah. Yeah, it's yeah.
- 56:59I mean that's what 4 hands are like collab dinners.
- 57:01I think that's the magic of it. I remember all the ones we did
- 57:03at Minibar. Like, I have never eaten at
- 57:06Central, but when Virgilio and his team came to Minibar for a
- 57:10week, my God, there were like, literally every hour some new
- 57:15thing either we tasted or happened.
- 57:17That just blew my mind. Yeah.
- 57:19And on top of that, some of the sweetest human beings will ever
- 57:21meet in your life. Like, biggest chef crush I've
- 57:25probably ever had on my life, Virgilio Martinez.
- 57:28I mean, the guy's just beautiful.
- 57:32Those experiences are awesome. And it's, it's always surprising
- 57:35how open people are to doing that.
- 57:37Yeah, right. Minibar is a tiny little
- 57:39restaurant, right? Granted, 2 stars and Jose's
- 57:42Jose, but like the Albert Adria doesn't have to schlep all the
- 57:46way over here from Spain to do a guest chef dinner.
- 57:49Yeah. He's doing it because he's
- 57:50hoping he's gonna learn something or see something,
- 57:52right? Because he's always learning.
- 57:54That's that's his mindset, right?
- 57:58And Jose wants to show off the team to the team.
- 58:01Yeah, right. Yeah, the, the idea of the
- 58:03competition that we we have as chefs.
- 58:05And you know, I was talking with someone about this the other day
- 58:08because I was thinking back to when, you know, 10 years ago and
- 58:10I, I had this chef that I, I was my rival, not because, not
- 58:16because they did anything, it was just they were my market
- 58:19competitors. They were, they, they were like,
- 58:20who's the best, me or them? And of course, in my mind, I
- 58:23thought they're not as good as me.
- 58:25And, and so I would, I would diminish them in conversation
- 58:28thinking, but I'm like, the only reason I would speak that way
- 58:32and I understand this now, the only reason I would speak that
- 58:35way about that person was because I respected them, right?
- 58:38They were that good. Otherwise I wouldn't be talking
- 58:41about them. Why would you waste your time on
- 58:42them? Why would I waste my time
- 58:43thinking about someone that I didn't respect?
- 58:45Yeah. And I didn't realize that then.
- 58:48I, I, I viewed it as like, oh, they're the competition.
- 58:51I got to do better. But no, the reason they made me
- 58:53better, they pushed me. The fact that they were good
- 58:55made me better. And you and a lot of times we
- 58:58look at we look at our competition in a, in a, in a
- 59:03negative aspect, right? It's like, no, it's great.
- 59:06It's great. They, they push you, they make
- 59:07you better. They, you respect them.
- 59:09You you have to, you have to speak with, with reverence and
- 59:14love for your biggest rivals because that's what they are.
- 59:17Yeah. Otherwise you wouldn't even be
- 59:18thinking. About it, yeah, no, I mean it's
- 59:20interesting. I mean, like, I'll say for me,
- 59:21like, like we said, we're competitive, but like, I don't
- 59:25know, I, I, I don't know that I've ever thought of having a
- 59:27rival in, in in the culinary worlds.
- 59:31Like I just never thought of it that way.
- 59:33Even when we're at key, right, like Emmer and Rye was like
- 59:36probably like the the next new cool kid on the block, right,
- 59:39Like right, right. That inherently probably could
- 59:43have been our competition. But then you meet someone like
- 59:47Tavelle, you meet someone like Kevin and you're like, how are
- 59:50you not impressed by these two individuals, right?
- 59:53Like if, if, if you meet and hang out with Tavel and, and you
- 59:57don't kind of fall in love, you gotta check yourself.
- 1:00:00If you talk to Kevin Fink about the restaurant industry and
- 1:00:04you're not in awe of just how freaking clever he is.
- 1:00:09And man, I feel sorry for you. Right.
- 1:00:11Like Kevin and I kind of started cooking at the same time.
- 1:00:13Granted, he's been in restaurants a lot longer cuz
- 1:00:15he's like grew up in it, but like there are times I look at
- 1:00:18Kevin, I'm just like. How fucking smart are you?
- 1:00:21Yeah, right. Like I've been doing this for a
- 1:00:24long time and we talked about it like I've worked in Mission Star
- 1:00:25restaurants. I still consider Kevin and Tavel
- 1:00:28my mentors, Co collaborators, right?
- 1:00:35And yeah, we're competitive with each other.
- 1:00:37Yeah, right. You put Kevin Fink in the
- 1:00:38kitchen, he's going to try to out cook you and chances are
- 1:00:41he's going to win, right? That's fun.
- 1:00:45Yeah, those are fun days. It's it's funny, when you were
- 1:00:48at key, I I remember I ate there.
- 1:00:51What did I have? I I still remember.
- 1:00:53I want to say it was I might be wrong.
- 1:00:56I want I think it was gnocchi but it had like a blood sauce
- 1:00:58with. It Oh yeah, the Dinaguan.
- 1:01:00So good. Yeah, I mean that that was all
- 1:01:02Paul Key. Yeah.
- 1:01:03I mean, talk about an amazing cook, right?
- 1:01:05Like hands down one of the most talented chefs I've I've ever
- 1:01:10seen. Yeah, yeah, super talented,
- 1:01:12created. Yeah, we we did a a popper, a
- 1:01:15proper Nyuki parisienne over Tiniguan pork's blood.
- 1:01:19Sauce, right? Yeah, it was great.
- 1:01:20Yeah. I I still remember that dish,
- 1:01:22you know, almost 15 years ago. Yeah, you're not the only one.
- 1:01:24People talk about bringing that back up.
- 1:01:26A lot yeah, yeah, it's a great dish.
- 1:01:28It's funny. I I here's a little anecdotal
- 1:01:30story for people that have listened to a couple of the
- 1:01:32different chefs that have been on the podcast is in 2014,
- 1:01:38fifteen ish. We went and had cigars and
- 1:01:41drinks and you were there. Diego was there, Kevin was
- 1:01:46there, I was there and maybe one other chef was there.
- 1:01:48But it's funny because Kevin and Diego didn't know each other.
- 1:01:50That's when they met. It was at that event that we had
- 1:01:52we had put on together. That was the first time I met
- 1:01:54you. But it's funny because you're in
- 1:01:57rooms 10 years ago with people and then you don't realize where
- 1:02:01where these people are going. So many of those.
- 1:02:03And, and again, I mean, that's the power of food, right?
- 1:02:05Like you make connections. Yeah, right.
- 1:02:07Like, you know, I mean, I don't know about you, but when you
- 1:02:10travel, like chances are I can go to a city and there's a chef
- 1:02:13that I know maybe I just did an event with right years ago that
- 1:02:17can be like, hey, I'm in town. Where should I go eat?
- 1:02:20They're good. They're going to show you their
- 1:02:21town because like any one of us, like, you know, if Jose Andres
- 1:02:25wants to come or I tour a Ruben to San Antonio, I'm going to
- 1:02:28take time out of my day to make sure they eat really well in my
- 1:02:31town. Right?
- 1:02:32Like we we're proud of who we are in our food communities.
- 1:02:37That's a really freaking cool thing.
- 1:02:39And when you embrace that, it means that doors start to open
- 1:02:41for you. Yeah, right.
- 1:02:43Like if, I mean, we talked about Michelin already, but if you had
- 1:02:46asked me, like, you know, 20 years ago, 10 years ago, even
- 1:02:50five years ago, all right, are there Michelin star restaurants
- 1:02:53in Texas? I would have said no, right.
- 1:02:56If you had said, hey, you're going to be working with Kevin
- 1:02:59and Taval and this big restaurant group with all of
- 1:03:03these chefs, a bunch of them who I've worked for before, right?
- 1:03:07Like Zenil, our service director worked with us at Key.
- 1:03:11Danny Perata worked with us at Key.
- 1:03:14You know, it, it's, it's one of these things where it's like, it
- 1:03:19is a small enough community still to where it's like you, if
- 1:03:24you're honest with people, you straight shoot with people like
- 1:03:27you put put the best of you out there, right?
- 1:03:30Like it's gonna pay off, right? Like our, our, our food
- 1:03:33community. To me, we all know it's hard,
- 1:03:36brutally hard sometimes. I like to think we get a hell of
- 1:03:41a lot out of it. And to me, it's like having
- 1:03:43nights like that. Yeah, right.
- 1:03:45Like where you can smoke a cigar with a friend, talk about food.
- 1:03:50And maybe you only do that once a year or once every five years.
- 1:03:54Still meaningful? Yeah.
- 1:03:56Those are great memories. Yeah, So, you know, it's funny,
- 1:03:58I, I look at all the great memories that I've had with all
- 1:04:01the great chefs and all my friends.
- 1:04:02That's like, man, some of the best memories are just sitting
- 1:04:05down and talking. That's it.
- 1:04:07Yeah, nothing special. It's like some good food, sit
- 1:04:09down, talk. Maybe it's a cigar, maybe it's
- 1:04:11a, you know, a glass of whiskey or whatever.
- 1:04:13But chef wrapping up the show. Sure.
- 1:04:16Couple of questions if you had a a Mount Rushmore of chefs out
- 1:04:19there. Oh wow.
- 1:04:20Who's on Mount Rushmore? Wow.
- 1:04:26Gosh. Ferron and Albert Adria, 1000.
- 1:04:33Count as one or is that 2? I think Albert is his own in his
- 1:04:37own right, you know, Like, I mean, there's, you know, they're
- 1:04:42brothers, but Albert is. Stands on his own if.
- 1:04:45Ferron, yeah, stands on his own feet 100%.
- 1:04:48So those, those two for me are just massively important.
- 1:04:53You know, I would say Jose Andres has to be on there for me
- 1:04:56personally. Jacques Pepin, right?
- 1:05:00An American master. Gosh.
- 1:05:07That's 4, right? That's 4.
- 1:05:08Is that say it so? Yeah, Limit, yeah.
- 1:05:10You could throw one extra if you want.
- 1:05:12And I'm going to throw in, I'm going to throw in one that maybe
- 1:05:16some of your listeners haven't heard of, but somebody that like
- 1:05:19I met a few years ago that I'm just incredibly in awe of.
- 1:05:23And his name is Diego Guerrero in Mothery.
- 1:05:26It's got a restaurant called D Stage.
- 1:05:29And he is like rock'n'roll spirit Spanish food, not stuffy,
- 1:05:36but puts out beautiful artistic food.
- 1:05:39I wish everybody knew his cooking.
- 1:05:41I mean, he's obviously very popular in Europe, but I wish
- 1:05:43more Americans knew his food because every time I see him
- 1:05:48post things like I'm just in awe and inspired.
- 1:05:52And even though I've known him a lot less than I'd say those
- 1:05:55other Mount Rushmore's, he's probably one of the people that
- 1:05:58I go to the most to think about. Yeah.
- 1:06:03And Tibel will be happy because I, I'll bear counsels my pastry
- 1:06:06chef on that list, right. Since I since I since I do a lot
- 1:06:09of pastry these days, Yeah. Yeah, fair enough.
- 1:06:12If if you had if you had a chef out there like a a bucket list
- 1:06:15chef that you'd want to eat their food that you want them to
- 1:06:19cook for you, who would it be? Will.
- 1:06:21Goldfarb Room for dessert in Bali Nubu.
- 1:06:25Oh, OK. Yeah, the first chef ever to do
- 1:06:28a dessert only tasting menu. Yeah.
- 1:06:31And he and one of my mentors, Reuben Garcia, were really good
- 1:06:35friends at BUI. And I have never actually eaten
- 1:06:40his food. And it's like, you know, there's
- 1:06:44only so many Michelin starter, high end dessert tasting menus
- 1:06:49in the world. And I feel like I have to give
- 1:06:52props to somebody that's like has been doing it for 20 years.
- 1:06:56You know, I want to try that. Excellent.
- 1:06:59Or or. I'd love to have him come to
- 1:07:01Nkosi and cook with us. If, if, if you had to give
- 1:07:04advice to all the cooks and chefs out there in the world,
- 1:07:07what's one thing that we could do today to improve our cooking
- 1:07:10now? Beyond just taste, taste, taste.
- 1:07:18Don't be afraid of making mistakes, right?
- 1:07:19And I'm sure I'm not unique in saying that as a chef, but
- 1:07:23failure is a myth, right? Mastery is repetition, getting
- 1:07:28good at creativity. And I always talked a lot about
- 1:07:30creativity that only comes from putting up ideas and ideas and
- 1:07:34ideas. Don't be afraid of making
- 1:07:38mistakes. Shoot your shot, shoot 1000
- 1:07:42shots. Just you got to put in the work,
- 1:07:44right? Like that's that was a lot of
- 1:07:46advice, I think, and then one little nugget.
- 1:07:48No, no, no. It's good.
- 1:07:49Yeah, it's good. Rishef, this has been fun.
- 1:07:51I appreciate you giving us a peek inside your creative
- 1:07:54process and how your mind was brilliant.
- 1:07:55I loved it. So I think a lot of people will
- 1:07:57learn from this. For people that want to follow
- 1:07:59along and follow you, where can people find you?
- 1:08:01Oh, on Instagram, I'm normally on there.
- 1:08:05I don't remember what my JLF Fernandez is my handle there,
- 1:08:10but most days I'm at Nikosi or Isidora Pullman market.
- 1:08:14This coming year I'll be spending a lot of time at
- 1:08:16Nikosi, so you can normally find me there.
- 1:08:20Awesome, brother. Yeah.
- 1:08:21Thank you for being here. Thank you.
- 1:08:22Yep, it's fun. Well, I hope you enjoyed the
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