Latest / New Worlder / Episode #123: The Fight for Trancoso
Transcript
- 0:20[music]
- 0:25SPEAKER_00: The southern coast of Bahia,
- 0:27SPEAKER_00: Brazil is what many dream about when they imagine a South American beach paradise.
- 0:34SPEAKER_00: Perhaps no place draws as much intrigue as a village called Trancoso.
- 0:41SPEAKER_00: Swaying palm trees and white sandy beaches,
- 0:44SPEAKER_00: rugged cliffs and rare patches of undisturbed Mata Atlantica rainforest teeming
- 0:49SPEAKER_00: with wildlife.
- 0:50SPEAKER_00: There's architecture, both historic and ultra-modern, There's fashion, music, dancing, art.
- 0:58SPEAKER_00: There's culture.
- 0:59SPEAKER_00: There's life.
- 1:01SPEAKER_00: And there's also food.
- 1:02SPEAKER_00: Local gastronomy is defined by artisan fishing and enhanced by small farms.
- 1:08SPEAKER_00: There are the ingredients like fiery red dende oil,
- 1:11SPEAKER_00: plump Atlantic shrimp,
- 1:12SPEAKER_00: and coconut milk,
- 1:14SPEAKER_00: and the Afro-Brazilian and indigenous culinary traditions that form the backbone
- 1:18SPEAKER_00: of Bahia's regional cuisine.
- 1:21SPEAKER_00: Yet...
- 1:22SPEAKER_00: Trancoso's charms are the very thing that now threatens it with overdevelopment.
- 1:27SPEAKER_00: It's a story told around the world,
- 1:30SPEAKER_00: a destination beloved for its simplicity and natural beauty,
- 1:34SPEAKER_00: overtaken by developers concerned less about building a life
- 1:37SPEAKER_00: than making short-term profit.
- 1:40SPEAKER_00: But the community,
- 1:41SPEAKER_00: the people that have made Trancoso what it is,
- 1:44SPEAKER_00: aren't going to go down without a fight.
- 1:46SPEAKER_00: The loose collection of hoteliers,
- 1:48SPEAKER_00: fishermen, farmers, cooks, naturalists, and shop owners have a plan.
- 1:52SPEAKER_00: And food is at the heart of it.
- 1:56SPEAKER_00: But first, let's go back in time a little bit to try and understand exactly how we got here.
- 2:02SPEAKER_00: The village of Trencoso,
- 2:05SPEAKER_00: located not very far from
- 2:06SPEAKER_00: where Portuguese explorer Pedro Alvarez Cabral first reached
- 2:10SPEAKER_00: the South American continent in the year 1500,
- 2:14SPEAKER_00: was formerly founded in 1583 by Jesuit missionaries
- 2:19SPEAKER_00: who named it São João Batista dos Indios.
- 2:23SPEAKER_00: On a high cliff overlooking the sea and rivers,
- 2:26SPEAKER_00: they cleared a large green square out of the rainforest and called it the Quadrado.
- 2:31SPEAKER_00: Anchored by the historic Sao Joao Batista Church,
- 2:35SPEAKER_00: the Quadrado was sited by simple wooden houses,
- 2:38SPEAKER_00: some of which still stand to this day.
- 2:40SPEAKER_00: With no roads leading to it, Trincoso remained isolated for centuries.
- 2:45SPEAKER_00: Its few residents survived on fishing and subsistence farming.
- 2:49SPEAKER_00: Then, in the 1970s, The Biribandos moved in.
- 2:54SPEAKER_00: These eccentric newcomers arrived walking along the beach from Porto Seguro.
- 2:59SPEAKER_00: They were hippies,
- 3:00SPEAKER_00: free spirits from Sao Paulo and beyond,
- 3:03SPEAKER_00: who fused their bohemian lifestyle with local traditions.
- 3:06SPEAKER_01: Those hippies who arrived here,
- 3:09SPEAKER_01: hippies,
- 3:10SPEAKER_01: whatever word we want to use for them,
- 3:13SPEAKER_01: they kind of blended in with the local community and this was a very gentle way
- 3:19SPEAKER_01: to introduce modernity here because
- 3:24SPEAKER_01: You know, if the developers arrive first, the place is doomed.
- 3:28SPEAKER_01: If the hippies arrive first, there's hope.
- 3:35SPEAKER_01: Because the hippies reinforce to all the local people, ah, what you have here is good.
- 3:41SPEAKER_01: You know,
- 3:42SPEAKER_01: there's normally this idea that remote places without high education levels,
- 3:46SPEAKER_01: they'll just be very quick to want to trade what they have for bling,
- 3:50SPEAKER_01: for their idea of modernity.
- 3:52SPEAKER_01: But I think the people here had really strong traditions and the people
- 3:55SPEAKER_01: who arrived also confirmed to them.
- 3:57SPEAKER_01: Ah, this is beautiful.
- 3:58SPEAKER_01: This is fantastic.
- 3:59SPEAKER_01: And jointly, they kind of set a grassroots conservation thing here.
- 4:04SPEAKER_01: Decide to block all the cars from the Quadrado.
- 4:08SPEAKER_01: Decide the native families.
- 4:10SPEAKER_01: Decide when the hippies were telling them, this place is going to grow.
- 4:15SPEAKER_01: It's going to grow.
- 4:15SPEAKER_01: You got to protect yourself.
- 4:17SPEAKER_01: The native families decide to make a big wooded forest right outside the Cuadrado.
- 4:21SPEAKER_01: It's called the bosque, the woods.
- 4:24SPEAKER_01: And all the native families said,
- 4:25SPEAKER_01: okay, this town's going to grow, but this place, we're going to keep this forest.
- 4:28SPEAKER_01: They made their own kind of urban planning, these simple people.
- 4:32SPEAKER_01: They had one local guy who didn't really do much of anything and let him live by the forest.
- 4:36SPEAKER_01: And his job was to make sure nobody came and cut the trees down or tried to occupy.
- 4:41SPEAKER_01: And that bosque park is still there today.
- 4:45SPEAKER_01: But I say gentle introduction to modernity because these local people,
- 4:49SPEAKER_01: they didn't experience the modern outside world by getting introduced to Coca-Cola
- 4:55SPEAKER_01: and potato chips.
- 4:57SPEAKER_01: They got introduced to brown rice.
- 4:59SPEAKER_01: The first restaurant here was a macrobiotic cafe.
- 5:02SPEAKER_01: The second was a vegetarian Indian restaurant.
- 5:07SPEAKER_00: That's Bob Shevlin,
- 5:09SPEAKER_00: who co-founded Ushua,
- 5:11SPEAKER_00: a house hotel that has worked to preserve and restore
- 5:13SPEAKER_00: the town's original architecture rather than replace it while working
- 5:17SPEAKER_00: with local craftsmen.
- 5:20SPEAKER_00: By the 1980s, more people arrived, as did roads and electricity.
- 5:25SPEAKER_00: A site of Sandra Leite's Macrobiotic Cafe,
- 5:29SPEAKER_00: which would later evolve to become Capim Santo,
- 5:32SPEAKER_00: the influential Chef Moreno Leite's restaurant and hotel.
- 5:35SPEAKER_00: The first guest houses opened and ecotourism arrived,
- 5:39SPEAKER_00: but it remained small scale and the village rustic.
- 5:43SPEAKER_00: Food writer Josimar Melo told me he came here 30 years ago,
- 5:47SPEAKER_00: walking along the beach from Puerto Siguero.
- 5:49SPEAKER_00: He said it was a place where horses would graze on the Quadrado and there were
- 5:52SPEAKER_00: a few small ranches that sat just beyond.
- 5:56SPEAKER_00: Then there was nothing.
- 5:57SPEAKER_00: Dutch designer Wilbur Doss,
- 6:00SPEAKER_00: the other co-founder of Ushua with Shevlin,
- 6:02SPEAKER_00: describes how he fell in love with Ciancoso.
- 6:06SPEAKER_03: I'll translate.
- 6:20SPEAKER_00: I discovered Trancoso by chance in 2004.
- 6:23SPEAKER_00: I arrived here alone in June.
- 6:25SPEAKER_00: I was the only tourist.
- 6:26SPEAKER_00: There was just one other tourist who arrived a week later.
- 6:29SPEAKER_00: And it was a, well, not a love at first sight because at first I thought, I'm alone here.
- 6:35SPEAKER_00: What am I going to do?
- 6:35SPEAKER_00: I don't speak Portuguese.
- 6:38SPEAKER_00: I spoke Italian well, but I managed to make myself understood.
- 6:43SPEAKER_00: But after four days, I started meeting people here.
- 6:45SPEAKER_00: I was completely captivated by the preservation of this village.
- 6:49SPEAKER_00: It's very rare to see that kind of setting,
- 6:51SPEAKER_00: the nature, the people, the hospitality, the friendliness of the Bahians.
- 6:56SPEAKER_00: It was a very powerful experience.
- 6:58SPEAKER_00: I went back to Italy in tears.
- 7:00SPEAKER_00: I didn't know what had come over me because the emotion was so intense.
- 7:05SPEAKER_00: Shavalin describes how the first tourist started to trickle in.
- 7:09SPEAKER_00: When I got here,
- 7:11SPEAKER_00: it was like
- 7:13SPEAKER_01: a step between This mythological Trencozo that
- 7:18SPEAKER_01: the counterculture movement found in the 70s,
- 7:22SPEAKER_01: which was a place completely stuck in time.
- 7:27SPEAKER_01: The military dictatorship was in charge in Brazil.
- 7:31SPEAKER_01: It was not cool to be a...
- 7:35SPEAKER_01: People who were just a little bit left-leaning were considered pretty radical.
- 7:39SPEAKER_01: And the cities were a bit dangerous for them, Rio, Sao Paulo.
- 7:42SPEAKER_01: So these people went out looking for other places And some of them got
- 7:47SPEAKER_01: to Porto Seguro,
- 7:49SPEAKER_01: and they heard this little place down the beach,
- 7:51SPEAKER_01: if you can walk to it in an hour or two,
- 7:53SPEAKER_01: no, two and a half hours, this little trancozo.
- 7:56SPEAKER_01: This is a beautiful little town on the hilltop, which is living in another century.
- 8:04SPEAKER_01: These people stumbled down the beach into Trincozo,
- 8:08SPEAKER_01: and to their surprise, the people really welcomed them.
- 8:12SPEAKER_01: This small little village treated them like family members or neighbors
- 8:19SPEAKER_01: who had gone away and just came back.
- 8:23SPEAKER_00: As time went on, the words started to get out.
- 8:26SPEAKER_00: More luxurious hotels opened.
- 8:28SPEAKER_00: There were Victoria's Secret fashion shoots and countless celebrity visitors charmed
- 8:32SPEAKER_00: by the splendid scenery and easygoing lifestyle.
- 8:36SPEAKER_00: I first came to Trencoso about a decade ago and was one
- 8:40SPEAKER_00: of those people writing stories about it.
- 8:43SPEAKER_00: I stayed in a spacious, bright pink house on the Cuadrado at Ushua.
- 8:48SPEAKER_00: I visited a patasho community and grilled fish wrapped in a pachioba palm leaf
- 8:53SPEAKER_00: and spent a day in a boat with an artisan fisherman.
- 8:56SPEAKER_00: I drank a ginger-infused cachaça called Natuno,
- 8:59SPEAKER_00: swam in the ocean,
- 9:00SPEAKER_00: went to the weekend feira, or farmer's market, and ate acaraje from street stalls.
- 9:06SPEAKER_00: Mass tourism was at Trencoso's doorstep, but it had yet to arrive.
- 9:11SPEAKER_00: The developers were moving in, though, and land was being snatched up.
- 9:15SPEAKER_00: Businesses were being launched by outsiders who didn't live in Trencoso as
- 9:19SPEAKER_00: the town was splashed on the pages of glossy travel magazines who called it
- 9:23SPEAKER_00: the next Tulum.
- 9:25SPEAKER_00: Everything was about to change.
- 9:27SPEAKER_00: On a return visit last year, I was surprised by how much Trencoso had changed.
- 9:32SPEAKER_00: The town sprouted outward,
- 9:34SPEAKER_00: with cheap new construction for informal guest houses and a maze of shops,
- 9:38SPEAKER_00: displacing small farms and long-time residents.
- 9:41SPEAKER_00: Busloads of tourists were arriving on day trips from Porto Seguro,
- 9:45SPEAKER_00: and music blasted far too loud from restaurants on the Cuadrado.
- 9:49SPEAKER_00: The Trencoso you hope exists is still there, though it's getting harder to find.
- 9:56SPEAKER_00: My visit was timed with the Organic Festival,
- 9:59SPEAKER_00: a first-of-its-kind culinary event in Brazil built around sustainable food.
- 10:05SPEAKER_00: Co-directed by French hospitality expert and writer Charles Perrault
- 10:09SPEAKER_00: and Brazilian producer Lily Torres,
- 10:11SPEAKER_00: they wanted to organize an event that could change the conversation around food
- 10:15SPEAKER_00: and sustainability in Trencoso.
- 10:18SPEAKER_00: They saw ideas surrounding what people were eating changing around Brazil.
- 10:22SPEAKER_00: Yet hotels and restaurants in the city were still bringing in salmon from abroad
- 10:27SPEAKER_00: and sourcing industrial produce from other states,
- 10:30SPEAKER_00: while small farms and fishermen from the area were struggling.
- 10:33SPEAKER_00: Lily Torres explains.
- 10:35SPEAKER_02: You know,
- 10:35SPEAKER_02: if you go to supermarkets or they have the most of the products they have,
- 10:43SPEAKER_02: like fruits and vegetables, are coming from a spirit or something.
- 10:46SPEAKER_03: Okay.
- 10:46SPEAKER_02: Not even balia.
- 10:49SPEAKER_00: They launched the Organic Festival in 2018,
- 10:51SPEAKER_00: paused briefly during the pandemic years,
- 10:54SPEAKER_00: and it continues to grow, infusing the community with new ideas through each event.
- 10:59SPEAKER_02: That's how we did the tourism here, not change to something that's not related to here.
- 11:07SPEAKER_02: Always have some party and should you still keep a little bit of that for having fun
- 11:13SPEAKER_02: but also cannot be changed only for that then could be anybody anywhere else
- 11:18SPEAKER_02: so I think the Organic Fest for all these movements change
- 11:22SPEAKER_02: to people see other things in Tranquozo because most of people
- 11:27SPEAKER_02: who come here was attracted for them not attracted for the client they are attracted
- 11:31SPEAKER_02: because they come here in Tranquozo and say what's happening
- 11:34SPEAKER_02: the world didn't Didn't arrive here,
- 11:38SPEAKER_02: like there is horses in the Pagrado, there is kids playing football.
- 11:42SPEAKER_02: And with the years,
- 11:43SPEAKER_02: the vision outside of Trancoso,
- 11:45SPEAKER_02: the vision was going through like drinks, drugs, and parties.
- 11:51SPEAKER_02: So I think the festival helped to show Trancoso in a different way,
- 11:56SPEAKER_02: nature of people who want to live here.
- 12:01SPEAKER_02: Ocean, also now farms.
- 12:03SPEAKER_02: Farms movement started maybe in pandemic.
- 12:06SPEAKER_02: A lot of people are involved.
- 12:08SPEAKER_02: Now, Capim Santo has a little farm.
- 12:11SPEAKER_02: This, you know, na praça thing, where is buru inside.
- 12:14SPEAKER_02: The owner of the family there.
- 12:16SPEAKER_02: They have also a lot of agrofloresta and they are doing like honey and they are planting a lot.
- 12:23SPEAKER_02: And that is the guy also who does The biggest part here is Taipia.
- 12:29SPEAKER_02: They are also planting there.
- 12:31SPEAKER_02: So it's like the movement that not only from Shua is happening,
- 12:39SPEAKER_02: and people are also moving,
- 12:41SPEAKER_02: not going out, but moving far, living in little farms, having a little fight.
- 12:49SPEAKER_02: So I think that is a way to keep Trancoso as a sustainable place.
- 12:56SPEAKER_02: Because parties are a little bit trend,
- 12:58SPEAKER_02: so if you just focus on that, probably Trancoso is going to lose a lot in years.
- 13:05SPEAKER_02: So I think that's keeping me balancing.
- 13:10SPEAKER_00: The week was filled with conversations and workshops filled with conservationists,
- 13:14SPEAKER_00: indigenous leaders, cooks,
- 13:16SPEAKER_00: beekeepers,
- 13:17SPEAKER_00: fermenters,
- 13:18SPEAKER_00: and artists over experiential meals, farm visits, and botanical expeditions.
- 13:23SPEAKER_00: We admired the biodiversity-rich gardens hidden behind the Quadrado walls
- 13:28SPEAKER_00: and talked often about native plants.
- 13:30SPEAKER_02: This is urucum.
- 13:32SPEAKER_02: It's very good for the skin.
- 13:37SPEAKER_00: One morning was spent with Jorge Ferreira,
- 13:39SPEAKER_00: better known as Jorge Forager,
- 13:41SPEAKER_00: a well-known Brazilian ethnobotanist who spends his days mapping Brazil's wild foods
- 13:46SPEAKER_00: and medicinal flora.
- 13:48SPEAKER_00: We hiked through the Mata Atlantica at a private natural heritage reserve,
- 13:53SPEAKER_00: the 975-hectare Rio do Brasil, on the outskirts of Trencoso.
- 13:58SPEAKER_00: He hands me a leaf called Canela de India,
- 14:01SPEAKER_00: which tastes just like cinnamon,
- 14:03SPEAKER_00: and points out fruits like Bequiba, beloved by Tucans.
- 14:07SPEAKER_02: Bom, a ideia é a gente falar um pouco sobre essa etnobotânica,
- 14:10SPEAKER_02: falar um pouco da biodiversidade dessa região, falar do que é comestível.
- 14:14SPEAKER_02: Esse foco entre floresta, conservação e relação gastronômica é responsável.
- 14:20SPEAKER_02: Aqui, nesse local,
- 14:22SPEAKER_02: a gente está mais voltado para um banho de floresta e conhecer
- 14:25SPEAKER_02: a floresta do que exatamente sair coletando.
- 14:28SPEAKER_02: Então a ideia é que a gente faça esse passeio com esse olhar atento a essa riqueza,
- 14:32SPEAKER_02: essas florestas, essas árvores e aos cogumelos presentes.
- 14:38SPEAKER_00: The idea is to talk a bit about the ethnobotany and the biodiversity of this region,
- 14:43SPEAKER_00: to discuss what is edible.
- 14:44SPEAKER_00: George says, the focus is on the forest, conservation and responsible gastronomic connections.
- 14:52SPEAKER_00: Here, the emphasis is more on forest bathing and getting to know the forest than
- 14:55SPEAKER_00: on actually foraging.
- 14:57SPEAKER_00: The idea is to take this walk with a keen eye for the richness around us.
- 15:01SPEAKER_00: The forest, the trees, and the mushrooms.
- 15:03SPEAKER_00: That's really one of the highlights of this place.
- 15:07SPEAKER_00: After the hike, we wander over to the organic farm set within the boundaries of the reserve.
- 15:12SPEAKER_00: George collaborated on a meal with Lara Esperito Santo and George McLeod of
- 15:17SPEAKER_00: the restaurant SEM in Lisbon, Portugal.
- 15:20SPEAKER_00: Lara, who is Brazilian,
- 15:22SPEAKER_00: and George,
- 15:23SPEAKER_00: who is from New Zealand,
- 15:25SPEAKER_00: Met while working at Silo in London before opening SEM,
- 15:28SPEAKER_00: a closed-loop,
- 15:29SPEAKER_00: zero-waste system focusing on 80% plant-based,
- 15:33SPEAKER_00: local, and seasonal food sourced from small-scale Portuguese regenerative farmers.
- 15:38SPEAKER_00: McLeod described some of the meal.
- 15:40SPEAKER_03: But it's seasoned with the kimchi, which is made completely
- 15:46SPEAKER_03: the Mata Atlantica panca.
- 15:50SPEAKER_03: But it's super delicious.
- 15:51SPEAKER_03: And then there's some patanga, because it's my favorite fruit, for sure.
- 15:54SPEAKER_00: And then just a very raw vegetable,
- 15:56SPEAKER_00: simple raw vegetable salad on top with a blackened citrus pith sort of dressing.
- 16:01SPEAKER_00: And then on the side plate is an egg white garam and coconut soubees.
- 16:06SPEAKER_00: So egg white garam is something we make in the restaurant all the time,
- 16:08SPEAKER_00: fermented egg whites because it's always excess.
- 16:12SPEAKER_00: But being in Brazil we just mix it with coconut milk because it's delicious.
- 16:15SPEAKER_00: And then the leaf on top is... Tayoba.
- 16:20SPEAKER_00: Tayoba.
- 16:23SPEAKER_00: Mix with a little lemon grass oil.
- 16:25SPEAKER_00: But the idea to kind of take things from the middle,
- 16:27SPEAKER_00: put it onto your plate and then sort of mix it up together and get messy.
- 16:31SPEAKER_00: Morena Leite,
- 16:32SPEAKER_00: who grew up in Trincoso,
- 16:33SPEAKER_00: cooked at her restaurant Capim Santo while highlighting the school food
- 16:37SPEAKER_00: and nutrition program she manages in Sao Paulo
- 16:40SPEAKER_00: with her initiative Capim Santo Escola.
- 16:44SPEAKER_00: There was also a meal at Almar,
- 16:46SPEAKER_00: a restaurant and beach club that opened on Praia Dos Coqueros in 2024
- 16:49SPEAKER_00: from Marcel Leite.
- 16:53SPEAKER_00: Morena Leite's brother,
- 16:55SPEAKER_00: which serves only sustainable seafood and works to support a project of
- 16:58SPEAKER_00: the same name that is trying to protect Trincoso's marine biome.
- 17:03SPEAKER_00: They collaborated with Rodolfo Villar of Projeto Amar from Ilabela,
- 17:09SPEAKER_00: an organization that has helped redefine Brazil's artisan fisheries in a decade
- 17:14SPEAKER_00: by helping develop local production techniques,
- 17:17SPEAKER_00: championing unconventional fish without commercial value.
- 17:22SPEAKER_00: And promoting fish of known origin, which means knowing who caught it, how, and where.
- 17:28SPEAKER_00: Elsewhere,
- 17:28SPEAKER_00: the chef Dario Costa,
- 17:30SPEAKER_00: who has several seafood restaurants in Santos,
- 17:33SPEAKER_00: cooked with seaweeds gathered by a nearby indigenous community.
- 17:36SPEAKER_00: There were talks about the importance of melipona bees and the curative properties
- 17:40SPEAKER_00: of honey from a group called B2B,
- 17:43SPEAKER_00: fermented fruit drinks from the guys at Compania Dos Fermentados,
- 17:47SPEAKER_00: and powerful stories about using gastronomy As an educational tool in the favelas
- 17:51SPEAKER_00: and how kitchens are changing from the chef, Joao Diamante.
- 18:01SPEAKER_00: At Diamante na Cozina,
- 18:04SPEAKER_00: we use gastronomy as a backdrop, as a hook to facilitate education, he says.
- 18:09SPEAKER_00: But our mission is inclusion and integration through education
- 18:13SPEAKER_00: with gastronomy serving as the tool.
- 18:16SPEAKER_00: Especially now that the field is trending.
- 18:18SPEAKER_00: Thanks to various TV shows,
- 18:19SPEAKER_00: I consider myself privileged to be experiencing such a great moment in gastronomy.
- 18:24SPEAKER_00: My mission is to carry on that legacy,
- 18:26SPEAKER_00: redefine what has already been done, and evolve our approach to education.
- 18:31SPEAKER_00: There's no point in having education within culinary schools and institutions
- 18:35SPEAKER_00: if once you step into a real kitchen, everything is the opposite.
- 18:39SPEAKER_00: If we aren't communicating.
- 18:41SPEAKER_00: We need to talk to one another,
- 18:43SPEAKER_00: especially given the current climate regarding workplace harassment,
- 18:46SPEAKER_00: both moral and sexual,
- 18:48SPEAKER_00: and everything else going on,
- 18:49SPEAKER_00: as well as discuss products, small-scale producers, and small entrepreneurs.
- 18:55SPEAKER_00: Education is a continuous process.
- 18:58SPEAKER_00: It happens at every moment.
- 19:02SPEAKER_00: Then there was the Rio de Janeiro chef,
- 19:04SPEAKER_00: Roberta Sudbrack,
- 19:05SPEAKER_00: the godmother of the Organic Festival,
- 19:07SPEAKER_00: who attends every year,
- 19:09SPEAKER_00: Reading poetry from Northeastern Brazil to describe her food
- 19:12SPEAKER_00: before serving it beside the beach at Uxua Mare.
- 19:16SPEAKER_02: I'll translate.
- 19:18SPEAKER_02: Bread with tomato, okra, and lardo.
- 19:37SPEAKER_00: Love, according to Ferreira Gullar.
- 19:40SPEAKER_00: But such is the nature of love, comparable to the wind, fluid and devastating.
- 19:45SPEAKER_00: It cannot be seen, yet it is felt.
- 19:49SPEAKER_00: Crudo, of the catch of the day, cacao, and leeks.
- 19:53SPEAKER_00: Love, according to Rachel de Quiroz.
- 19:57SPEAKER_00: Everything has its time, and every hour its own concern.
- 20:01SPEAKER_00: Bife de Sereno.
- 20:03SPEAKER_00: Which is air-cured beef with egg,
- 20:06SPEAKER_00: pumpkin, and Northeastern-style vinaigrette and crispy collard greens.
- 20:11SPEAKER_00: Love, according to George Amado.
- 20:15SPEAKER_00: There is always some madness in love, but there is also always a reason in that madness.
- 20:21SPEAKER_00: Gabriella, Clove, and Cinnamon.
- 20:24SPEAKER_00: The Cake of Happiness.
- 20:26SPEAKER_00: She ends by stating that the food today reflects not only the love of the Northeast,
- 20:31SPEAKER_00: but But all the love we put into the food.
- 20:38SPEAKER_00: Organic Festival co-founder Charles Perl lays his overview of the year's event
- 20:43SPEAKER_00: and envisions where it might go from here.
- 20:46SPEAKER_03: For me, Organic Festival Trancoso in Bahia,
- 20:50SPEAKER_03: Brazil, it's not only about gastronomy and about food.
- 20:56SPEAKER_03: It's much more about culture and obviously tourism.
- 20:59SPEAKER_03: And I think the interesting thing in the Organic Festival Trancoso is to mix
- 21:10SPEAKER_03: And I think this intersection between food,
- 21:14SPEAKER_03: tourism,
- 21:15SPEAKER_03: culture,
- 21:15SPEAKER_03: sustainability for sure and nature is very interesting and I think it's very unique.
- 21:21SPEAKER_03: Because Food Festival, we have a lot in the world.
- 21:24SPEAKER_03: But I think festivals that mix these pillars are rare.
- 21:29SPEAKER_03: And this is how we try to make it different.
- 21:34SPEAKER_03: So, Organic Festival Trencois is an encounter between Brazilian leadership in food,
- 21:41SPEAKER_03: culture, sustainability, conservation, beverage also, because we need to drink wine.
- 21:47SPEAKER_03: But I think this is the most interesting thing in this project.
- 21:51SPEAKER_03: And we are now completing next year 10 years.
- 21:54SPEAKER_03: So we are very happy to follow with this project and also to remember
- 21:59SPEAKER_03: that it's absolutely non-profit.
- 22:02SPEAKER_03: And my partner and co-founder with me,
- 22:05SPEAKER_03: the Ochoa team, we share exactly the same value and the same vision about tourism.
- 22:10SPEAKER_03: So I'm very happy to follow this project and to be really connected
- 22:16SPEAKER_03: with all these people to bring conversation,
- 22:19SPEAKER_03: to bring ideas, to bring vision in this paradise called Trencozo.
- 22:25SPEAKER_00: The organic festival culminates in a public event with street food,
- 22:30SPEAKER_00: stalls of small producers,
- 22:32SPEAKER_00: and live music that took over the Quadrado for a full day.
- 22:36SPEAKER_00: Everyone from the entire community is there,
- 22:38SPEAKER_00: and it's fun, cheerful, an atmosphere that could only happen in Brazil.
- 22:45Thank you.
- 23:19SPEAKER_03: Diz o que eu sempre quis,
- 23:21SPEAKER_03: Se abrazo, você quis, Estão em um dia em ser feliz, Você se fala sério.
- 23:29Não quer
- 23:33SPEAKER_02: chorar sua mágoa,
- 23:39SPEAKER_02: Se afogando em agonia,
- 23:45SPEAKER_02: Porque a tempestade em copo d'água,
- 23:52SPEAKER_02: Chote da alegria.
- 24:33SPEAKER_03: Música Música Música
- 24:40SPEAKER_03: Música
- 25:41SPEAKER_00: At night,
- 25:42SPEAKER_00: Latin Grammy-winning singer Jo Tape performs a free concert with a luau on the beach
- 25:48SPEAKER_00: to officially close out the festival.
- 26:19SPEAKER_03: Eu quero te dar as estrelas e se o céu mais um em mim.
- 26:25SPEAKER_03: Estava a pensar todas as vezes que você entrou em seu livro.
- 26:33SPEAKER_03: Vê aí, Brasil.
- 26:37SPEAKER_03: Sem mim, só em mim.
- 26:39SPEAKER_03: Mas pensa com carinho, porque eu sei que vai abrir.
- 26:44SPEAKER_03: Nosso amor vai além de qualquer coroa.
- 26:48SPEAKER_03: E aí, me pega pra você,
- 26:53SPEAKER_03: que eu tô me colocando bem na palma da tua mão,
- 27:01SPEAKER_03: que eu tô compartilhando a tempestade o teu amor, meu Deus me quer.
- 27:09SPEAKER_03: Não deixa acontecer, nem eu me esgatar, que pode ser que você não me informe.
- 27:19SPEAKER_03: Hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey, hey.
- 28:03SPEAKER_03: E aí, vem só em mim.
- 28:05SPEAKER_03: Mas pensa com carinho, porque eu sei que vale a pena.
- 28:12SPEAKER_03: Do nosso amor para mim de qualquer problema.
- 28:17SPEAKER_03: E aí...
- 28:29SPEAKER_03: Me pega pra você,
- 28:31SPEAKER_03: Que eu tô me colocando,
- 28:33Que é na soma da tua mão,
- 28:37Que eu tô compartilhando,
- 28:40Que eu tô fazendo,
- 28:42SPEAKER_03: Que eu tô fazendo, Que eu tô fazendo, Que eu tô fazendo, Não deixa acontecer,
- 28:52SPEAKER_03: Você vê aí, segue aí.
- 28:55SPEAKER_03: Vou aproveitar, vou dar uma intimada.
- 29:00SPEAKER_03: Antes de cantar o refrão de novo,
- 29:04SPEAKER_03: se você está nesse rolê acompanhado,
- 29:07SPEAKER_03: se você está interessado em alguém,
- 29:10SPEAKER_03: a hora de você olhar pra pessoa que você está querendo, entendeu?
- 29:19SPEAKER_03: É uma banda de rock.
- 29:21SPEAKER_03: A gente vai cantar e sentou aqui, entendeu?
- 29:24SPEAKER_03: Pra ficar aqui numa mensagem não tão subliminada assim, tá ligado?
- 29:27SPEAKER_03: Vou ajudar vocês, hein?
- 29:29SPEAKER_03: Aproveito, rapaz, dá aquele abracinho assim, as pessoas não sabem ainda que você tá aqui.
- 29:35SPEAKER_03: Dá aquele abracinho aqui, ó, entendeu?
- 29:38SPEAKER_03: Pra pessoa, entendeu?
- 29:40SPEAKER_03: Tá ligado?
- 29:41SPEAKER_03: Depois vocês me colocam, eu quero ser padrinho aí.
- 29:43SPEAKER_03: E cantar o refrão de novo, tem até a canola pra pessoa, hein?
- 29:47SPEAKER_03: Eu vou me divertir aqui mesmo com a canola.
- 29:51SPEAKER_03: Música Música Música Música Música
- 30:20SPEAKER_03: Eu vou até cantar de novo que eu quero testar a tensão.
- 30:28SPEAKER_03: Me pega pra você que eu tô me colocando.
- 30:30SPEAKER_03: Até uns beijos rodando aí sim.
- 30:35SPEAKER_03: Que eu tô compartilhando a peito estágio que eu estou.
- 30:42SPEAKER_03: Tô te refletindo.
- 30:50SPEAKER_03: Now I'm
- 30:54SPEAKER_03: looking for someone who can pass by by by by by by by by by
- 31:42SPEAKER_00: Shevlin tells me his hopes for the future of the Organic Festival.
- 31:46SPEAKER_00: The question is where can it go?
- 31:48SPEAKER_01: Because I think it can be like the,
- 31:51SPEAKER_01: I want to say like the Burning Man of conservation,
- 31:57SPEAKER_01: but Burning Man being absolute superficiality and this actually trying
- 32:01SPEAKER_01: to have some meaning.
- 32:03SPEAKER_01: You don't change the world in a grand gesture.
- 32:06SPEAKER_01: You change it with lots of
- 32:08SPEAKER_00: little gestures.
- 32:10SPEAKER_00: Over the next few days,
- 32:11SPEAKER_00: as the crowd from the Organic Festival fades away,
- 32:14SPEAKER_00: I learned more about how fragile some of the issues surrounding Cerencoso have been.
- 32:20SPEAKER_00: The pandemic really set things in motion.
- 32:23SPEAKER_00: People moved here in droves from larger cities and bought beach houses,
- 32:26SPEAKER_00: putting pressure on their already fragile infrastructure.
- 32:29SPEAKER_00: There was a rave one night, right on the cuadrado.
- 32:34SPEAKER_00: Another time,
- 32:35SPEAKER_00: Someone tried to tear down the town forest right at the entrance of the Quadrado
- 32:39SPEAKER_00: and turn it into a parking lot.
- 32:42SPEAKER_00: The town was divided by those who saw Trancoso's future going
- 32:45SPEAKER_00: in different directions,
- 32:46SPEAKER_00: and there were bitter lawsuits against some business owners that didn't want
- 32:50SPEAKER_00: to adhere to environmental regulations.
- 32:54SPEAKER_00: At the same time, efforts to counteract the negative aspects of development also intensified.
- 33:00SPEAKER_00: To try and break through some of the divide,
- 33:02SPEAKER_00: there were surveys that asked locals what they wanted.
- 33:05SPEAKER_00: And surprisingly, they all wanted the same things.
- 33:08SPEAKER_00: Parks, schools, safe streets, and access to healthcare.
- 33:13SPEAKER_00: It helped bring everyone back down to earth and give some sense of shared responsibility.
- 33:20SPEAKER_00: I saw this in action at Despertar,
- 33:22SPEAKER_00: an agroecology and professional development NGO founded in 2010 by
- 33:26SPEAKER_00: a long-time resident who didn't want all the locals doing menial jobs while all
- 33:30SPEAKER_00: the managers and supervisors would be coming from some other part of Brazil.
- 33:35SPEAKER_00: Despertar offers workshops for local Trincoso residents and children
- 33:41SPEAKER_00: about native plants,
- 33:42SPEAKER_00: art, nutrition, and professional training in regenerative tourism.
- 33:47SPEAKER_00: Their experimental garden was designed to give the community tools to grow things
- 33:51SPEAKER_00: and even take home seeds and saplings to plant.
- 33:56SPEAKER_00: One of the associates showed me around.
- 33:58SPEAKER_02: With this awareness of food,
- 34:00SPEAKER_02: things are very precarious,
- 34:01SPEAKER_02: people eat bad here, and this affected the study of the people.
- 34:05SPEAKER_02: They didn't have to understand the matter cognitively.
- 34:08SPEAKER_02: So we took a step back and started working agroecology.
- 34:19SPEAKER_00: To translate,
- 34:20SPEAKER_00: so recognizing that the diet here in Trincoso is very poor,
- 34:24SPEAKER_00: people eat very badly,
- 34:25SPEAKER_00: and this actually impacted their studies as they struggled to grasp
- 34:28SPEAKER_00: the material cognitively.
- 34:30SPEAKER_00: We took a step back and began working on agroecology.
- 34:34SPEAKER_00: We realized that people have the space to grow crops.
- 34:37SPEAKER_00: There are many families with small family plots,
- 34:39SPEAKER_00: so we started introducing this knowledge to help them reconnect with the land
- 34:43SPEAKER_00: and grow higher quality food,
- 34:44SPEAKER_00: enabling them to develop better in their studies and at school.
- 34:49SPEAKER_00: As she spoke,
- 34:50SPEAKER_00: I realized just how many edible plants I had seen growing in these little gardens
- 34:54SPEAKER_00: that I saw all over Transicoso in the days before.
- 34:58SPEAKER_00: There was jackfruit, rose apple, bananas, tamarind, and cacao.
- 35:02SPEAKER_00: Right on the cuadrado,
- 35:03SPEAKER_00: there are even countless towering mango trees that could supply the entire town for
- 35:07SPEAKER_00: the full year.
- 35:08SPEAKER_00: In this tropical environment, things are easy to grow.
- 35:11SPEAKER_00: I wondered what might happen if some of those empty
- 35:14SPEAKER_00: or cheap buildings were opened up to more species of the Mata Atlantica,
- 35:18SPEAKER_00: things like Jusara palms with their acai-like fruit,
- 35:21SPEAKER_00: or the Melopona bees that were being talked about at the festival.
- 35:26SPEAKER_00: Further afield, I spent a day at Symbiosis, a reforestation project being funded by Apple.
- 35:33SPEAKER_02: For the Pomar, we are going to, we already have a lot of different species.
- 35:40SPEAKER_02: Genipaco, Jequitibá, Mogno, Jacarandá, Boleira, we have different species already took off.
- 35:51SPEAKER_00: Symbiosis is a massive modern project that is taking 1,400 hectares
- 35:57SPEAKER_00: of degraded pasture land and replanting Mata Atlantica species there
- 36:02SPEAKER_00: to produce sustainable timber,
- 36:04SPEAKER_00: restore local ecosystems, and relieve logging pressure on primary forest.
- 36:09SPEAKER_00: Apple's investment,
- 36:11SPEAKER_00: their way of buying carbon credits,
- 36:13SPEAKER_00: mind you,
- 36:13SPEAKER_00: We'll allow Symbiosis to reforest an additional 5,000 hectares,
- 36:18SPEAKER_00: and Symbiosis is seeking an additional 100 million
- 36:21SPEAKER_00: to reforest another 10,000 hectares.
- 36:26SPEAKER_00: What I was walking through was essentially a giant nursery,
- 36:30SPEAKER_00: thousands upon thousands of seeds and saplings to return the native forest
- 36:34SPEAKER_00: to this part of Bahia.
- 36:36SPEAKER_00: Adjacent to the land they are working in is Pau Brazil National Park.
- 36:41SPEAKER_00: As long as things keep going as planned,
- 36:43SPEAKER_00: there will be a collective buffer that preserves a wide swath of the land
- 36:47SPEAKER_00: between Trencoso and Porto Seguro,
- 36:50SPEAKER_00: a large port city to the north,
- 36:52SPEAKER_00: and severely limit future development that tears down the Mata Atlantica.
- 36:59SPEAKER_00: The next morning,
- 37:00SPEAKER_00: I took a breathing course with Sandro Mota,
- 37:03SPEAKER_00: who developed an exercise that he calls the Mota Method that integrates body,
- 37:08SPEAKER_00: mind, breath, and spirit to help overcome emotional and physical imbalances.
- 37:14SPEAKER_00: Motta does workshops all over the world,
- 37:16SPEAKER_00: usually for wealthy clients,
- 37:18SPEAKER_00: but he was a friend of Ushua and offered it free to volunteers of the festival,
- 37:23SPEAKER_00: locals,
- 37:23SPEAKER_00: and special visitors,
- 37:24SPEAKER_00: like me, for one session after the festival as a sort of detox, I guess.
- 37:30SPEAKER_00: I had been eating and drinking wildly and having lively conversations for a week,
- 37:34SPEAKER_00: and something just pulled me out of bed 30 minutes before
- 37:38SPEAKER_00: that very early morning session beside the ocean was set to begin.
- 37:43SPEAKER_00: For a few minutes,
- 37:44SPEAKER_00: Molcha and his partner,
- 37:45SPEAKER_03: Barbara,
- 37:45SPEAKER_03: spoke with everyone and asked us to write down different fears we have in our lives,
- 37:51SPEAKER_03: and we talked about them a little bit.
- 38:05SPEAKER_00: There were just a handful of us,
- 38:06SPEAKER_00: and the locals,
- 38:07SPEAKER_00: a mix of the wealthy and working class,
- 38:09SPEAKER_00: had different things on their mind,
- 38:11SPEAKER_00: though ultimately their worries about love and life were all the same.
- 38:15SPEAKER_00: We had to keep those fears in mind as we laid down on our backs on yoga mats
- 38:19SPEAKER_00: and started with the exercise.
- 38:21SPEAKER_00: At first it felt funny,
- 38:22SPEAKER_00: making these intense,
- 38:24SPEAKER_00: very loud, in-and-out breaths, but after ten minutes or so, my body went numb.
- 38:30SPEAKER_00: Tears rolled down everyone's faces as thoughts and memories came and went in waves.
- 38:36SPEAKER_00: It's definitely the new age side of Trincoso that I've never known and always been unsure about.
- 38:41SPEAKER_00: I didn't know what I was getting into exactly at the time,
- 38:44SPEAKER_00: but sometimes you just kind of have to go with it.
- 38:48SPEAKER_00: Just to put a little distance between everything that you're trying to process.
- 39:03SPEAKER_00: With the town now quiet,
- 39:04SPEAKER_00: I spoke with Ushua's Chevlon about what he hopes will happen in Trencozo in
- 39:08SPEAKER_00: the years to come.
- 39:10SPEAKER_00: As I mentioned earlier,
- 39:11SPEAKER_00: food and the relationship it has to Trencozo's natural surroundings has everything
- 39:16SPEAKER_00: to do with it.
- 39:17SPEAKER_01: What we're trying to do in Trencozo is a little bit of this inversion of the idea
- 39:23SPEAKER_01: that tourist places always...
- 39:28SPEAKER_01: Used to be better in the past is kind of a cliche where the people say,
- 39:31SPEAKER_01: uh, you should have been here 20 years ago.
- 39:33SPEAKER_01: Uh, you should have been here 30 years ago.
- 39:36SPEAKER_01: And we know Trencozo was, uh, had marvelous qualities 20 or 30 years ago.
- 39:42SPEAKER_01: We think we.
- 39:44SPEAKER_01: A lot of people have been working, myself, about 20 years.
- 39:47SPEAKER_01: There's longer to preserve the best of the past, but it was never a utopia.
- 39:53SPEAKER_01: Utopia doesn't exist in the world, but there's aspects of Trincozo.
- 39:58SPEAKER_01: That we think we could preserve and there's aspects also
- 40:00SPEAKER_01: that we think we can improve in terms of infrastructure not just for tourists but
- 40:05SPEAKER_01: for people who live there and ideally the quality of Trincozo which I really like is
- 40:11SPEAKER_01: the infrastructure shared between tourists and people who live there.
- 40:14SPEAKER_01: That's always been the wonderful thing about Trincozo is That everybody wants to be
- 40:20SPEAKER_01: on the cuadrado, visit the historic cuadrado, visit beaches.
- 40:24SPEAKER_01: And everything is popular in the sense of the international sense of that word popular.
- 40:30SPEAKER_01: Of being shared and enjoyed by everybody equally.
- 40:36SPEAKER_01: We have a project called T30, in which we are trying to do a long-term green project.
- 40:45SPEAKER_01: Urban planning,
- 40:46SPEAKER_01: which would be very inclusive,
- 40:48SPEAKER_01: inclusive urban planning,
- 40:50SPEAKER_01: which would foresee some climate adaptation because,
- 40:54SPEAKER_01: of course, Trancoso's coastal destination needs to address climate adaptation.
- 41:00SPEAKER_01: But also foresees growth in tourism infrastructure and growth in infrastructure
- 41:06SPEAKER_01: of people who live year-round in Trencozo and equal amount of planning and emphasis
- 41:12SPEAKER_01: on beauty and contact with nature and health.
- 41:17SPEAKER_01: For everybody.
- 41:18SPEAKER_01: We kind of use a metaphor of a necklace that we want to keep Trencoza surrounded by
- 41:24SPEAKER_01: a necklace of sustainable fishing, which we have right now.
- 41:28SPEAKER_01: Our fishing is still Local and traditional fishing and sustainable farming.
- 41:34SPEAKER_01: And we do have like a necklace of small family agriculture.
- 41:40SPEAKER_01: Was family in the recent years.
- 41:41SPEAKER_01: It's also become investment of the hospitality industry
- 41:47SPEAKER_01: and restaurant owners are very consistent with the values of the organic festival.
- 41:51SPEAKER_01: People in Trincozo like to be connected to the land and to the ocean.
- 41:55SPEAKER_01: And beyond this necklace of farms,
- 41:57SPEAKER_01: we want to have a necklace of parks,
- 42:00SPEAKER_01: municipal and state and national,
- 42:02SPEAKER_01: and all connected by trails and active transit,
- 42:08SPEAKER_01: and have urban expansion beyond that.
- 42:10SPEAKER_01: So the necklace metaphor is very important for us.
- 42:14SPEAKER_03: There we go.
- 42:19SPEAKER_03: There we go.
- 42:20SPEAKER_03: There we go.
- 42:36SPEAKER_00: The morning before I left,
- 42:37SPEAKER_00: I walked down to Praia dos Nativos and along the way spotted a sloth
- 42:41SPEAKER_00: and some pygmy marmosets in the trees,
- 42:44SPEAKER_00: then cut across a wooden walkway through the mangroves
- 42:46SPEAKER_00: that are still growing proudly along the shore.
- 42:50SPEAKER_00: When I reached the beach,
- 42:51SPEAKER_00: I put my feet in the sand and looked out,
- 42:54SPEAKER_00: No surprise at how many green sea turtles I could see swimming by.
- 42:58SPEAKER_00: There were no jet skis around or cruise ships off in the distance.
- 43:01SPEAKER_00: Just a lonely vendor walking by,
- 43:03SPEAKER_00: grilling que xiao colado over a grate set on a metal can filled
- 43:07SPEAKER_00: with burning charcoal.
- 43:10SPEAKER_00: Time meant little.
- 43:11SPEAKER_00: It could have been 50 years ago or 10 years from now.
- 43:14SPEAKER_00: It's difficult to say which way Trincosa was going to go.
- 43:18SPEAKER_00: Will mass tourism keep inching its way in,
- 43:21SPEAKER_00: endangering the things that made this corner of Bahia so special to begin with?
- 43:26SPEAKER_00: Will they line the cuadrado with modern condo and hotel towers or put in a cruise ship dock?
- 43:32SPEAKER_00: Or will the community find a way to keep this remote corner of
- 43:36SPEAKER_00: the Bahian coast weird and beautiful with good things to eat produced by the people
- 43:41SPEAKER_00: that make a life here?
- 43:43SPEAKER_00: Thank you to everyone at the Organic Festival,
- 43:46SPEAKER_00: everyone at Ushua,
- 43:47SPEAKER_00: Bob Shevlin,
- 43:48SPEAKER_00: and Wilbert Das,
- 43:50SPEAKER_00: Embrator,
- 43:51SPEAKER_00: Organizacional Turismo de Trencoso,
- 43:54SPEAKER_00: Despertar,
- 43:54SPEAKER_00: Capium Santo,
- 43:56SPEAKER_00: all the organizations that came and everyone I spoke with for their help.
- 44:00SPEAKER_00: If you want to visit the 2026 edition of Trencoso's Organic Festival,
- 44:04SPEAKER_00: it is happening September 23rd to the 27th.
- 44:09SPEAKER_00: And
- 44:12SPEAKER_00: thank you
- 44:16SPEAKER_00: everyone for listening.
- 44:18SPEAKER_00: I'm Nicholas Gill.
- 44:20SPEAKER_00: Find out more about New Worlder at newworlder.com and please subscribe
- 44:25SPEAKER_00: to our Substack newsletter,
- 44:27SPEAKER_00: share us, like this episode, give it to your friends, and keep the word going.
- 44:34SPEAKER_00: Thank you all.