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San Diego's New Star of Modern Japanese Food
I must stop talking about the cabbage. I won't shut up about it. So I figured if I brought chef William Eick to talk me through it, it will resolve my lingering emotional fixation on what is one of the best dishes I've eaten in a very long time. Eick opened Matsu about six months ago. It's a minimalist ode to modern Japanese cuisine. He's been a talent in San Diego for a long time, and this is the big idea, what he's been working for. In a spare room in Oceanside, where the "biggest" design element seems to be a single white orchid on a bar top, he's serving 8- and 10-course tasting menus…
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