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Skincare Trends to Watch for in 2024 · The Science of Skin

• 0:08
  SPEAKER_02: Hello and welcome to Skin Care Confidential, a podcast supporting the Science of Skin Care Summit, which is an annual educational event occurring in Austin.
• 0:19
  SPEAKER_02: In 2024, it's occurring November 8th through the 10th at the Fairmont Hotel.
• 0:23
  SPEAKER_02: I am Dr.
• 0:24
  SPEAKER_02: Ted Lane.
• 0:25
  SPEAKER_02: I am a co-host and a co-founder of both Skincare Confidential and the Science of Skin Care Summit.
• 0:30
  SPEAKER_02: And along with me, I have Dr.
• 0:32
  SPEAKER_00: Patty Ferris, board certified dermatologist, Ted's partner in crime on the this podcast, as well as the Science of Skin Care Summit, which we're super excited about this year and really excited, I think, in general, that we've been able to get the support of the dermatologic community, the support of industry to really bring forward the science behind topical skin care.
• 0:54
  SPEAKER_00: So I think it's something Ted and I both have a lot of passion about, and we're really excited.
• 0:59
  SPEAKER_00: Are we in year four or year five?
• 1:01
  SPEAKER_00: Time plots are having fun.
• 1:03
  SPEAKER_00: This is year four.
• 1:04
  SPEAKER_02: I know it's an it's just a it doesn't stop, does it?
• 1:08
  SPEAKER_02: So this is year four uh occurring, and and we are we are so lucky in that we're actually bringing the summit to uh to to a country outside of the United States this year, aren't we, Patty?
• 1:19
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, that's that's something we're excited about.
• 1:21
  SPEAKER_00: I'm not sure we're ready to divulge all of the juicy details about it, but yes, the Science of Skincare Summit is going global this year, so that's super exciting for us.
• 1:31
  SPEAKER_02: More info on that is definitely to come.
• 1:33
  SPEAKER_02: Well, listen, this is a great opportunity as we hit the new year in 2024 and happy new year to everybody listening.
• 1:40
  SPEAKER_02: Um we just wanted to kind of take a look back and say, you know, we've had 25 episodes published.
• 1:47
  SPEAKER_02: This will be number 26.
• 1:49
  SPEAKER_02: Uh we've spoken to some really amazing, amazing people, Patty.
• 1:54
  SPEAKER_02: I I can think of a few that really stick out, but every one of them has brought something really unique to the table.
• 2:01
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm hoping all of our listeners have have thought this was worthwhile because I certainly learn something every time.
• 2:07
  SPEAKER_02: Either I listen to an interview from Patty or or I or I have an interview myself.
• 2:12
  SPEAKER_02: I learned something every single time.
• 2:14
  SPEAKER_02: It's been wonderful.
• 2:15
  SPEAKER_00: I I agree.
• 2:16
  SPEAKER_00: We've we've been fortunate to have dermatology key opinion leaders join us talking about various aspects of using skincare with their patients, and then all the industry partners who've spoken with us, the the Indian chiefs, the scientists, the formulators, everybody who really makes it happen, uh, the innovators, the people who are pushing the envelope in the skincare industry.
• 2:40
  SPEAKER_00: So if you haven't watched the past 25 episodes, I highly suggest you maybe take a look back at some of those that might be of interest to you because there's really a lot of good content there.
• 2:51
  SPEAKER_02: It's incredible.
• 2:52
  SPEAKER_02: We've we've had CEOs of billion-dollar companies, we've had scientists working at the benchtop formulating new ingredients and formulations, and pretty much everybody in between.
• 3:03
  SPEAKER_02: So really we've been we've been so fortunate to to gain that kind of traction to allow us to be able to interview such amazing, amazing people.
• 3:12
  SPEAKER_02: So thank you to everybody that's been involved, and and certainly we look forward to so much more in the future.
• 3:18
  SPEAKER_02: Uh Patty and I are both going to be at at ImCast in in Paris uh this month.
• 3:22
  SPEAKER_02: And so we we hope to interview uh uh some some industry executives and dermatologists from around the world, which will give us now a new global perspective on this skin care industry, right, Patty?
• 3:34
  SPEAKER_00: It's a great opportunity that meeting for anybody who's interested in skincare.
• 3:39
  SPEAKER_00: They have a really great session on cosmoceuticals and nutraceuticals, which I've been fortunate to be part of.
• 3:44
  SPEAKER_00: I know Ted has also, but it really is one of the best meetings uh for the for content.
• 3:51
  SPEAKER_00: It certainly has probably the most robust content on topical skincare of any meeting I've been to, with the exception of ours, which is totally dedicated to topical skincare.
• 4:01
  SPEAKER_00: But some of the things that I think we're interested in looking at is, you know, there's a lot of differences, as you know, Ted, about how things are approached globally.
• 4:10
  SPEAKER_00: Uh, one thing that comes to mind with me, I just did an interview with Henry Lim, who's a photobiologist, expert on photo protection.
• 4:17
  SPEAKER_00: And, you know, photoprotection around the world is totally different.
• 4:21
  SPEAKER_00: There's so many filters, UV filters in Europe that we don't have here in the States.
• 4:26
  SPEAKER_00: We also have the Food and Drug Administration who views uh ingredients for sunscreens as OTC drugs.
• 4:33
  SPEAKER_00: So they have a heavy hand in what happens in our sunscreen market.
• 4:38
  SPEAKER_00: And it's it's really it's that's one of the subjects that's going to be covered at this year's meeting, and I'm excited to hear international speakers discuss the subject of uh sunscreen ingredients and how we utilize those in our practice, the benefits, the pitfalls, the perils, the safety aspects around them.
• 4:56
  SPEAKER_00: So it should be a very interesting session.
• 5:00
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I think it's also as we think about skincare around the world, access to it is so different.
• 5:05
  SPEAKER_02: Where it's sold is so different that the expertise is so different in terms of where patients or consumers turn in order to learn which products are right for them.
• 5:17
  SPEAKER_02: And I think that can really uh be interesting for for our listeners as we try and make that a goal of ours this year is to really get a more uh global perspective on the industry.
• 5:28
  SPEAKER_02: Because when you understand, for example, how how someone in France or or Spain purchases skincare, it it informs, it gives you an idea of how the companies there are developing the skincare products for their consumers.
• 5:43
  SPEAKER_02: And so many of the companies who are based in in Europe or in Asia want to move into the North American market.
• 5:52
  SPEAKER_02: And sometimes it's difficult because the the formulations and and the wording on the packages and the packaging themselves is just a barren for the US market, and they have to really try and and and formulate and change things up just for what we have here, which um I think is really interesting.
• 6:11
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 6:12
  SPEAKER_00: We've also seen companies try to bring various ingredients into the US market, you know, for treating whatever acne, hyperpigmentation, any number of things, and how difficult a challenge that can be because of the regulatory environment that we have here.
• 6:31
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, hats off to everybody who's innovating, hats off to everybody who's fighting the good fight to keep the good products in the hands of the dermatologist.
• 6:41
  SPEAKER_00: And you make a really good point.
• 6:42
  SPEAKER_00: You know, we as dermatologists in the states uh enjoy the benefits of being able to direct dispense to our patients and to have products readily available for them to purchase in our office, which is not the case in countries uh across Europe.
• 6:57
  SPEAKER_00: It's not the case in places like Brazil.
• 7:00
  SPEAKER_00: Um so it it makes it very easy for patients to access exactly what their dermatologist wants them to use.
• 7:08
  SPEAKER_00: Um, of course, everybody enjoys taking a trip through the French pharmacies and all of those cool places where they have all the products.
• 7:15
  SPEAKER_00: I do.
• 7:16
  SPEAKER_00: I do it every time I go to Europe.
• 7:17
  SPEAKER_00: It's so much fun.
• 7:18
  SPEAKER_00: I do too.
• 7:19
  SPEAKER_00: It's sort of an enriched, yeah.
• 7:21
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, as if we haven't been in enough places that sell skincare.
• 7:26
  SPEAKER_00: But we will do that when we get to Paris.
• 7:28
  SPEAKER_00: I know we will because they're so cool.
• 7:30
  SPEAKER_00: Those pharmacies are just so cutting edge and forward thinking.
• 7:34
  SPEAKER_00: Even the one that's in the building that the MCAS lectures will be given in, you're gonna be amazed at what a cool pharmacy that is.
• 7:41
  SPEAKER_00: And it's right on site in that auditorium, right near the auditorium.
• 7:46
  SPEAKER_00: So they've got us coming and going.
• 7:47
  SPEAKER_00: They also have shopping in there, which is just bad altogether.
• 7:51
  SPEAKER_00: Shopping sales, it's not good, it's not good for the academic environment.
• 7:56
  SPEAKER_00: But it's a very cool place.
• 7:58
  SPEAKER_00: And I think, you know, it's interesting, like you said, to think about it.
• 8:02
  SPEAKER_00: I think if we look kind of look back, there's some interesting things that happened this year, but I also think there's some things that maybe we thought would happen but didn't happen.
• 8:10
  SPEAKER_00: So I'll I'll throw that one to you.
• 8:13
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I was really uh bullish on uh artificial intelligence really coming into skincare at the point of sale and also at the consumer level at home.
• 8:25
  SPEAKER_02: And it just hasn't really hit yet, in my view.
• 8:29
  SPEAKER_02: Like I don't think we've really touched the potential of artificial intelligence or quite frankly, technology overall for skincare, in particular individualized skincare for the patient.
• 8:42
  SPEAKER_02: Um I think certainly there are some great apps that are out there that allow the skin to be scanned and using the the great cameras and and LIDAR that's in the iPhones, for example, to develop some recommendations is wonderful.
• 8:56
  SPEAKER_02: But I just don't know that those have been globally accepted or or widely utilized.
• 9:01
  SPEAKER_02: And I think that is something that I really look to uh for for 2024, maybe even beyond, to change how skincare is both sold to to the consumer and how the consumer is able to use their decision-making process to to purchase the right products for themselves.
• 9:22
  SPEAKER_00: 100% you're gonna see that because a lot of companies that I'm consulting with are very heavily involved in using artificial intelligence.
• 9:30
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, what comes to mind one platform that's already out there is Neutrogena 360.
• 9:35
  SPEAKER_00: Right.
• 9:35
  SPEAKER_00: And you can, you know, scan your face, you can get the products selected by the uh algorithm.
• 9:42
  SPEAKER_00: So I'm not sure how widely used those platforms are.
• 9:46
  SPEAKER_00: There are certainly others, but I think it is the way of the future.
• 9:50
  SPEAKER_00: I couldn't agree more.
• 9:51
  SPEAKER_00: A lot of people don't have access to dermatologic care.
• 9:54
  SPEAKER_00: It's funny because I just did a post on this for social media because I thought it was it's important for people who can access dermatologists and don't go to aestheticians to understand one thing I don't like that social media has done is promoting the notion that if this is good for me, it's good for everybody.
• 10:10
  unknown: Yeah.
• 10:11
  SPEAKER_00: So I see even our colleagues oftentimes saying, I love this product, I love this product, I've used this and it feels great.
• 10:17
  SPEAKER_00: And that's all good.
• 10:19
  SPEAKER_00: But I also think that it's important to understand that individualized skincare is probably the wave of the future.
• 10:25
  SPEAKER_00: And the companies are looking very strongly at this.
• 10:28
  SPEAKER_00: Um, you know, and there are a lot of companies who that's their whole platform is individualized skincare.
• 10:33
  SPEAKER_00: Proven's one that comes to mind.
• 10:35
  SPEAKER_00: Not that I'm advocating their products, but I thought their concept was so interesting, and they kind of formulate these products based on the answers to the questions that you give to the algorithm.
• 10:46
  SPEAKER_00: And they create customized serums and products.
• 10:48
  SPEAKER_00: So it's just sort of an interesting play.
• 10:51
  SPEAKER_00: But I do believe that that's going to be one of the big things we're gonna see.
• 10:54
  SPEAKER_00: Another thing I saw really popping into social media this year was skincare for preteens.
• 11:02
  SPEAKER_00: And since I have several grandchildren who are in that demographic right now, they literally have more skincare on their vanities than I do.
• 11:10
  SPEAKER_00: They are buying everything.
• 11:13
  SPEAKER_00: They love drunk elephant, they love everything that has a kitschy name that looks like a cool color that's popping.
• 11:23
  SPEAKER_00: They love it.
• 11:24
  SPEAKER_00: And it's really a challenge to sort of supervise and monitor what these kids are putting on because we certainly don't need nine-year-olds using retinols, which is what I've found on some of my grandkids' countertops.
• 11:36
  SPEAKER_00: I'm like, you all didn't even have pimples yet.
• 11:39
  SPEAKER_00: If you get pimples, we could talk about some retinoids.
• 11:42
  SPEAKER_00: But you know, it that's a very interesting category, and it's huge right now.
• 11:47
  SPEAKER_00: And it's it's there's gonna be a lot of innovation, and there's gonna be a lot of product lines that are gonna target that.
• 11:55
  SPEAKER_00: Um, even though we all know there's lots that have been in that demographics for a long time, you know.
• 12:00
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I mean, pretty much all the sensitive skincare products are are aimed at that.
• 12:03
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 12:04
  SPEAKER_00: I was thinking the vino, uh but this the Biosorf, the userin line has been looking at that, and even Neutrogena with their acne lines, which are so I think well formulated and easy to use.
• 12:17
  SPEAKER_00: But you have to supervise kids that age um just to make sure of what they're buying.
• 12:22
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 12:22
  SPEAKER_02: Well, A, and and B, you're gonna we're we're gonna start seeing some irritants or some true allergic contact in the title from the 17 products that they're using.
• 12:31
  SPEAKER_00: We've already experienced that in-house.
• 12:34
  SPEAKER_00: Okay.
• 12:37
  SPEAKER_00: Yep, yep, that definitely happens.
• 12:41
  SPEAKER_00: But it's an interesting play, and it's an interesting dilemma that puts us in as physicians as to how do we handle kids that age who are interested in skincare.
• 12:49
  SPEAKER_00: Because certainly nothing wrong with fostering, could you, you know, wear a sunscreen, wash your face twice a day, wash your face after athletic events.
• 12:57
  SPEAKER_00: You know, I've always found in practice so challenging to get boys to use skincare.
• 13:01
  SPEAKER_00: And, you know, you give them a whole bunch of acne topicals, and the mother comes back, it's like, I'm not buying them anything else, he didn't even use it.
• 13:09
  SPEAKER_00: You know, and so I think fostering good habits in kids that age, there's something to be said for that.
• 13:15
  SPEAKER_00: If they could just wear sunscreen, you know, maybe a non-cometogenic moisturizer if they want something in the evening and use a good cleanser, that's a good start.
• 13:24
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 13:25
  SPEAKER_02: So I mean, I think that's a really interesting uh age group to target from the skincare company perspective.
• 13:31
  SPEAKER_02: I think prejuvenation, maybe a little bit older, you know, early 20s.
• 13:35
  SPEAKER_02: I think I see a lot more on prejuvenation now as well, which I am all for.
• 13:40
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's a great idea, you know, to really start focusing on the cellulosinescence and try and mitigate that as much as possible.
• 13:47
  SPEAKER_02: Maintain your collagen and elastin, because as we all know, with the with elastin, you're kind of at your peak at about age two, and then your elastin quantity decreases throughout your life.
• 13:57
  SPEAKER_02: So anything you could do early on to maintain your elastin is a great idea.
• 14:01
  SPEAKER_02: Anything you can do to maintain and and continue to build collagen is a great idea.
• 14:06
  SPEAKER_02: So I I really like some of the stuff that that these skincare companies are doing for this 20 to 30-year-old age group to really not only foster great sun protective behavior, but also like look, you know, scientifically, we need to start focusing on the fibroblasts, the melanocytes, the keratinocytes, and how do we do that for your age group so that we're not too aggressive, but we're also making sure that when you do hit your 40s and 50s and 60s, you look like traditionally what someone in their 30s would look like.
• 14:32
  SPEAKER_02: And I think that's where we're we're starting to move towards as well.
• 14:36
  SPEAKER_00: You you just gave me an idea.
• 14:38
  SPEAKER_00: I'd love to do a talk on prejuvenation and the science behind it.
• 14:42
  unknown: Yeah.
• 14:42
  SPEAKER_00: Because uh, do we really have a lot of science behind prejuvenation?
• 14:47
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, if you start using a retinoid early, do you have more collagen when you're 50 than you do if you don't?
• 14:53
  SPEAKER_00: There was one interesting paper that I remember was published by Dana Sachs, who was with John Voorhees' lab at the time, where she looked at a bunch of different ingredients, and it's an old paper, so I can't remember all the specific ingredients.
• 15:06
  SPEAKER_00: But what she found was that the most important thing that determined whether that ingredient worked, and she did it using skin biopsies for collagen and things like that, was whether the patient started with a deficit to begin with.
• 15:20
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 15:20
  SPEAKER_00: So, in other words, if you have robust collagen in your 25, like how much collagen are you going to be boost using a peptide, for example?
• 15:28
  SPEAKER_00: That's one of the few papers that I know that has really looked at that.
• 15:31
  SPEAKER_00: And like, do we even really know that if you use Botox in your 20s, which we both know lots of patients do, are you better off in your 40s?
• 15:40
  SPEAKER_00: I bet you are, but I'm not sure that we really have the data.
• 15:44
  SPEAKER_00: Is there we have data to support that?
• 15:48
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, those studies would be so difficult, they'd be, you know, studies would be long required 20 years and and so expensive.
• 15:55
  SPEAKER_02: So I think what we do is we we kind of rely on the in vitro data and the current clinical data that we have in vivo, and and we extrapolate from there.
• 16:03
  SPEAKER_02: But you know, it would be really interesting for just in a case series for a young dermatologist to to really start.
• 16:09
  SPEAKER_02: Usually you you age, dermatologists age with their patients, right?
• 16:12
  SPEAKER_02: So a younger dermatologist you tend to have younger patients.
• 16:15
  SPEAKER_00: Absolutely.
• 16:16
  SPEAKER_02: If any derma is is listening now, it would be a great idea to start taking photos.
• 16:20
  SPEAKER_00: There's a good investigator initiated trial for you.
• 16:24
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, now maybe not right now, but in about 20 years, if you started taking photos of your patients who came in regularly for Botox, yeah.
• 16:32
  SPEAKER_00: How do they look?
• 16:33
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, it it makes total sense.
• 16:35
  SPEAKER_00: And you know, sort of the flip side of prejuvenation and preteens is all these menopausal skincare lines we saw launching this year.
• 16:43
  SPEAKER_00: At the AAD, I was just in amazement at how many people were focusing on the postmenopausal female.
• 16:50
  SPEAKER_00: And looking at those ingredients, it's just so interesting because a lot of them are sort of the same old the retinoids of peptides, which make total sense because here we have women who are at a deficit.
• 17:00
  SPEAKER_00: They don't have as much collagen as they want or need, but also some innovative ingredients, um, like the MEP product, the long name of which is escaping me right now, but it's uh an interesting sort of play on the hormonal deficit that occurs in menopause, and that's a the biopel product, um, MIPEL.
• 17:20
  SPEAKER_00: So it's really interesting and a lot of focus on barrier repair and moisturization.
• 17:25
  SPEAKER_00: And that group really does present uh a challenge because they're on the other end of the slope, so to speak, you know.
• 17:33
  SPEAKER_00: So it's it's interesting to see major cosmetic companies focusing on them.
• 17:39
  SPEAKER_02: And even, I mean, as we go down kind of the the line of of aging, we're even starting to hear more and more about dermatoporosis, which you know, which is a really interesting term, referring to the skin sagging, the easy bruising, the skin tearing that occurs as you know, the epidermis and dermis.
• 17:57
  SPEAKER_02: We lose the reedy ridges, we lose that kind of ball and claw type um relationship, and the epidermis slides on the dermis, and unfortunately that leads to tearing and bruising and and kind of what we commonly attribute to senescent skin.
• 18:11
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and I think we'll start seeing some focus on that age group as well, and trying to maybe not reverse, but ameliorates the the effects of dermatoporosis, which is going to be great for our patients.
• 18:22
  SPEAKER_02: That's an age group patty that just really hasn't been focused on.
• 18:26
  SPEAKER_00: Right.
• 18:27
  SPEAKER_00: And and it is a huge morbidity in older patients, particularly as they get less mobile and they tend to hit things.
• 18:35
  SPEAKER_00: And you know, you and I have all and all dermatologists have dealt with tears, and and you know, uh, it's a terrible problem in the older, really older population.
• 18:45
  SPEAKER_00: Um, reminds me of that study that you and I were looking at when we were looking at um oral collagen and collagen supplements, and somebody actually looked at dermatoporosis and could collagen supplementation help those patients?
• 19:00
  SPEAKER_00: And the unfortunately the answer was no.
• 19:02
  SPEAKER_00: Remember, it didn't seem to boost collagen production at all in that in that patient group.
• 19:08
  SPEAKER_00: But it doesn't mean that topicals like retinoids or collagen-boosting peptides might not be of help.
• 19:14
  SPEAKER_00: So I think there's a lot more to learn about that and what's going on there.
• 19:19
  SPEAKER_00: But I think it what that showed me, that study, was that normal skin is really different than dermatoporotic skin.
• 19:24
  SPEAKER_00: You know, maybe that skin's so far gone because we've certainly seagen production and wrinkle effacement with oral collagen supplements in healthy skin.
• 19:35
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I was thinking about my other life and in just the pharmaceutical research that I deal with and how there's continuing to be this overlap.
• 19:42
  SPEAKER_02: If we think of like a Venn diagram between pharma and skincare, that that overlap in the ovals or the circles continues to progress.
• 19:51
  SPEAKER_02: And we're gonna see more and more pharmaceutical companies touting the beneficial effects of RX products for skin barrier improvement, reduction in transepidermal water loss, maybe even moving into skin quality as well.
• 20:07
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, it's just one of the reasons that we started the summit really was because there was so much focus on skincare, both from the skincare companies, but also we were realizing that pharmaceutical companies wanted to get into that arena, at least tout the benefits of their products for skin quality and skin health.
• 20:26
  SPEAKER_02: And I think this year in particular, we're gonna start hearing some of that as pharmaceutical companies have generated that data are now starting to publish it as well.
• 20:34
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I mean, that's definitely a benefit they have not touted previously, but that now there's so much focus on barrier and barrier repair, the microbiome.
• 20:46
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, that's just such a huge category right now.
• 20:49
  SPEAKER_00: And we're starting to see products really come into the marketplace with microbes, with probiotics in them, with prebiotics that can nurture good bacteria.
• 20:59
  SPEAKER_00: Um it's it's all of it is so intertwined now.
• 21:04
  SPEAKER_00: We know that you know the barrier is not just strictly bricks and mortar, but that the microbiome is a huge part of barrier function.
• 21:10
  SPEAKER_00: And dysbiosis breaks that apart and and causes lots of problems.
• 21:16
  SPEAKER_00: So things have changed so much.
• 21:18
  SPEAKER_00: I've been in the business a lot longer than you, but I'm telling you, we never would have even talked about the role of the microbiome in the in the barrier function, you know, years ago.
• 21:28
  SPEAKER_00: It just wasn't on our radar.
• 21:30
  SPEAKER_00: It's so fascinating, though.
• 21:32
  SPEAKER_00: I think we've learned a lot on a topic, you know, looking at atopics and patients with eczema.
• 21:37
  SPEAKER_02: Yep, and psoriasis.
• 21:38
  SPEAKER_02: And, you know, if we wanted to take that uh one step further, there's the microbiome of the skin, but there's also the biome of the gut.
• 21:45
  SPEAKER_02: And that gut-skin connection really um can affect skin health.
• 21:51
  SPEAKER_02: Um, I I I'm hot and heavy about this right now because I'm putting together a lecture on on the relationship between rhosacea and the gut.
• 22:00
  SPEAKER_02: And so I'm doing all this research.
• 22:02
  SPEAKER_02: You know, as you said earlier today, there's nothing that makes you more of an expert than proposing a lecture that was accepted by so by a conference and suddenly you got to put it together.
• 22:13
  SPEAKER_00: Um you can reach out to me because I've given that lecture before, and good luck because there's not a lot of studies.
• 22:19
  SPEAKER_00: It's I mean, there's small intestinal bacterial overgrowth that's been associated with it, but I don't know.
• 22:25
  SPEAKER_00: I haven't done that talk in a while.
• 22:27
  SPEAKER_00: But uh I remember thinking to myself, boy, this is sort of an untouched no-brainer to me.
• 22:35
  SPEAKER_00: Like somebody just needs to do the study.
• 22:37
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, yeah.
• 22:38
  SPEAKER_02: So so there's starting to come out with with some basic research on you know the effect of T regulatory T cells, for example, on skin health that are that all come from the gut bacteria, um, and and different peptides and and um small chain fatty acids that are produced by the gut bacteria that that lead to some beneficial but mostly not beneficial effects on the skin, and how that relates both to rosacea, which of course is a disease of the skin, but also to to skin health and skin beauty.
• 23:08
  SPEAKER_02: And so I think we're going to, you know, we've already started to see nutraceuticals creep in more and more into the skin.
• 23:14
  SPEAKER_00: Get ready for 2024, because that's going to be another area that I think is just going to explode.
• 23:19
  SPEAKER_00: And we've already seen big cosmetic companies going into the nutraceutical arena, which shocks me, but pleasantly so, because I think it's such a progressive approach.
• 23:29
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 23:29
  SPEAKER_00: And I think we have to be looking at inside-out approaches and not just outside in approaches.
• 23:34
  SPEAKER_00: It's so easy as a dermatologist in a cosmetic company to put things on the skin.
• 23:39
  SPEAKER_00: But we have to start getting people to think about the bigger picture and what their gut microbiome is doing and what our horrible Western diet is doing to us in terms of in terms of our skin.
• 23:53
  SPEAKER_00: Um it's a whole fascinating, whole fascinating uh area that we're gonna hear a lot more about.
• 24:00
  SPEAKER_00: I'm gonna throw you one question because I know you know a lot more about synolytics than I do, but we're starting to see some products being advertised all over with uh ingredients that can affect um synolytic cells.
• 24:13
  SPEAKER_00: So talk about that for just a second.
• 24:16
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, you know, cellulosinescence is is really in focus right now because of exosomes primarily, which have come out, but also just some new data that's that's focused on the effect of the senescent cells and and how they lead to aging of the cells near them.
• 24:31
  SPEAKER_02: And so therefore, it tends to be a spiral, a spiral of senescence or aging of the skin.
• 24:37
  SPEAKER_02: When you have some senescent cells that cause more cells to become senescent, you get the idea it's almost like a zombie apocalypse of your skin.
• 24:44
  SPEAKER_02: So we need to uh in some way focus on either stopping those senescent cells from doing the damage to their healthy neighbors or just reducing the amount of senescent cells we have in the skin.
• 24:56
  SPEAKER_02: And so there's senostatics, which are the former kind of stopping them from affecting other cells versus senolytics, which are really taking them out uh of the skin altogether.
• 25:05
  SPEAKER_02: And and it may not be keratinocytes that we're focusing on.
• 25:08
  SPEAKER_02: There's some data to show melanocytes are the the primary uh culprit in terms of cellular senescence or the aging of the skin.
• 25:15
  SPEAKER_02: So more to come on that, but you're right.
• 25:18
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's interesting.
• 25:19
  SPEAKER_02: Skin care companies now are focusing on ingredients such as niacinamide, which you know we talked about over and over and over.
• 25:24
  SPEAKER_02: You you term it the gentle giant.
• 25:26
  SPEAKER_02: I love that that that that moniker that you've given it because it's so true.
• 25:30
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, we're learning even more about niacinamide and how it is actually a synolytic.
• 25:34
  SPEAKER_02: And and so, you know, I think companies now are able to do hyaluronic acid might be as well, for example.
• 25:41
  SPEAKER_02: So some of the tried and true ingredients might have additional benefits that are going to be touted by these skincare companies.
• 25:48
  SPEAKER_02: And don't discount that if as a consumer, as a dermatologist or as a skincare professional, because there's some really good data to show that, at least in vitro, that these um tried and true ingredients may actually work uh against cellular senescence.
• 26:01
  SPEAKER_02: So more to come on that.
• 26:02
  SPEAKER_02: And then, of course, new ingredients as well will be coming out.
• 26:06
  SPEAKER_02: But you know, I think look, we've we've just given a great 360 of the what we did in 2023 and what's coming in 2024.
• 26:15
  SPEAKER_02: I think you and I are are really jazzed up about what we can offer with skincare confidential for at least the next 12 months, and I think well beyond that, given everything we just talked about.
• 26:26
  SPEAKER_02: And again, I just want to thank on behalf of Patty and myself, thank you to all our listeners or subscribers.
• 26:32
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you for all the downloads and support.
• 26:34
  SPEAKER_02: Can't tell you how often Patty and I both get emails or just quick comments about how much this um podcast is appreciated.
• 26:42
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, this is a passion project of ours, right, Patty?
• 26:45
  SPEAKER_02: We we enjoy this more than anybody.
• 26:47
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, it's so much fun.
• 26:49
  SPEAKER_00: And for anybody who's uh really wants to learn more about skincare, please join us at this year's summit again, Austin, Texas, November 8th through the 10th.
• 26:58
  SPEAKER_00: It's also one of the best parties, in my opinion.
• 27:01
  SPEAKER_00: We we have a really good time.
• 27:04
  SPEAKER_00: We have uh we have a lot of, let's just say, interesting social events that I think people really enjoy.
• 27:09
  SPEAKER_00: So you'll if you've never been to Austin, it's a cool spot to do things like that.
• 27:14
  SPEAKER_00: So we take full advantage, right, Ted?
• 27:16
  SPEAKER_00: Ted's hometown.
• 27:18
  SPEAKER_02: There you go.
• 27:18
  SPEAKER_02: So listen, if you have any ideas for future episodes or if you have any questions about an episode, you can email us at inquiry at science of skincare summit.com.
• 27:27
  SPEAKER_02: That's inquiry at science of skincare summit.com.
• 27:31
  SPEAKER_02: You can learn more about the summit at science of skincare summit.com as well.
• 27:35
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and then uh, you know, look we look forward to to more and more episodes, and and please give us a give us a shout if you need anything from us.
• 27:43
  SPEAKER_02: If you'd like to learn anything more about any of the episodes, or if you have an idea for an episode, we'd love to hear from you.
• 27:48
  SPEAKER_02: Um and thank you again for your support, everybody out there.
• 27:52
  SPEAKER_02: Uh, I'm Dr.
• 27:53
  SPEAKER_02: Ted Lane in Austin, and I'm with Dr.
• 27:55
  SPEAKER_02: Patty Ferris in New Orleans, and we are the co-hosts of Skincare Confidential.
• 28:00
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you very much.