Latest / Skin Anarchy / E.317: Clinical Grade Skincare for Sensitive Skin & Backed By Science Ft. Dr Rossi MD FAAD

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E.317: Clinical Grade Skincare for Sensitive Skin & Backed By Science Ft. Dr Rossi MD FAAD · Skin Anarchy

• 0:03
  SPEAKER_01: The forces of the club can only use their way to the cross the expense of the open world sanctuary.
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  SPEAKER_01: Use for five powerful classes to progress in the figure playstyle.
• 0:20
  SPEAKER_01: Welcome to the cloud.
• 0:22
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah, well four.
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  SPEAKER_01: Available now.
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  SPEAKER_01: Weighted and premature.
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  SPEAKER_01: Have the banner of visit this episode's page to learn more.
• 1:04
  SPEAKER_02: So without further ado, I want to introduce you guys to Dr.
• 1:07
  SPEAKER_02: Anthony Rossi, who is the founder of his own skincare line and is a um very well-known um dermatologist and physician.
• 1:17
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm just so excited to host you, Dr.
• 1:19
  SPEAKER_02: Rossi.
• 1:20
  SPEAKER_02: Welcome to the show.
• 1:21
  SPEAKER_00: Oh, thanks so much.
• 1:22
  SPEAKER_00: I appreciate you having me.
• 1:24
  SPEAKER_00: This is this is wonderful, and I'm excited to talk about skincare.
• 1:27
  SPEAKER_02: Yes, absolutely.
• 1:28
  SPEAKER_02: Me too.
• 1:28
  SPEAKER_02: I really love your line and I I can't wait for you to tell us about it.
• 1:32
  SPEAKER_02: But first, I want you to tell us how you got into uh this area of medicine and what led you to choose this as your career.
• 1:40
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, sure.
• 1:41
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, I always loved medicine and thought of it as a profession.
• 1:45
  SPEAKER_00: And so growing up, I really, you know, thought long and hard about going into medicine, but I just think it's such a wonderful profession because you get to meet so many people and help them along their journey.
• 1:57
  SPEAKER_00: And I actually grew up um with two hairdressers as parents.
• 2:01
  SPEAKER_00: So both of my parents are hairstylists and they own a hair salon in New York City.
• 2:05
  SPEAKER_00: And for me, it was amazing to see them interact with their clients, um, you know, and saw how they transformed people.
• 2:13
  SPEAKER_00: So it was something natural when I thought about what type of medicine I wanted to go into.
• 2:18
  SPEAKER_00: I knew I loved, you know, skin, hair, nails.
• 2:23
  SPEAKER_00: And as a dermatologist, we take care of all that.
• 2:25
  SPEAKER_00: Um, so dermatology seemed like a natural extension for me.
• 2:29
  SPEAKER_00: I was just fascinated about all the different types of skin diseases and how we really manifest uh internal disease in our skin.
• 2:38
  SPEAKER_00: Um, so there's so many branches of dermatology that you can go into.
• 2:41
  SPEAKER_00: And if anyone's ever thinking about it, it's a wonderful field.
• 2:44
  SPEAKER_00: I really focus on surgical dermatology.
• 2:47
  SPEAKER_00: So I'm a dermatologic surgeon and I specialize in uh skin cancer treatments as well as cosmetic dermatology, lasers, and rejuvenation procedures.
• 2:59
  SPEAKER_00: So it's a great mix.
• 3:01
  SPEAKER_00: I get to have my love of surgery as well as the non-surgical treatments.
• 3:07
  SPEAKER_02: That's so cool.
• 3:08
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 3:08
  SPEAKER_02: And I I'm glad you said that about you know how there are different avenues in DERM because um a lot of people, you know, I think they they talk about that.
• 3:17
  SPEAKER_02: They they reach out to me and they're like, well, I want to go into dermatology, like medical students, you know, and and I'm like, well, it's a hard field, you know, study hard.
• 3:26
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 3:26
  SPEAKER_00: I it definitely it's definitely getting very competitive, um, but there's so many cool branches, like anything from infectious disease, dermatology to uh rheumatologic disorders or um, you know, allergies.
• 3:40
  SPEAKER_00: It's it's really a fascinating and growing field.
• 3:42
  SPEAKER_00: And we really do embrace technology as dermatologists.
• 3:45
  SPEAKER_00: So I think someone who's also interested in technology, it's a great field.
• 3:51
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
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  SPEAKER_02: No, I I think that's very, very true.
• 3:54
  SPEAKER_02: And I and I want to know now, you know, about the line because you've created such a beautiful, you know, collection of products, and there's it's not complicated, but I know that it is complicated in terms of ingredients.
• 4:06
  SPEAKER_02: And I would love to hear about what led you to create the skincare line.
• 4:11
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, you know, were you trying to fix a problem for one of your patients, or how did this come to be?
• 4:16
  SPEAKER_02: For sure.
• 4:17
  SPEAKER_00: So skincare is definitely a passion of mine, and I I really do embrace it as the first line to improving not only the quality of your skin, but the look, the feel, and actual function of your skin, right?
• 4:31
  SPEAKER_00: We want to make sure that our skin functions as well as it can be, because the main the main ability of the skin is to protect our insides, basically.
• 4:41
  SPEAKER_00: And so we want to maintain that barrier protection.
• 4:44
  SPEAKER_00: We want to decrease inflammation.
• 4:47
  SPEAKER_00: And in my daily practice, I just noticed so many people coming in with inflamed skin, whether it was because they were putting so many products on their face or because they developed allergies to certain ingredients.
• 5:00
  SPEAKER_00: As dermatologists, we often see people with contact dermatitis or skin allergies due to many common ingredients that are in personal care products today.
• 5:10
  SPEAKER_00: And we can do something like patch testing to figure out what they're allergic to.
• 5:14
  SPEAKER_00: I also deal with a lot of patients who are undergoing uh cancer therapies or who have received treatments for cancer.
• 5:22
  SPEAKER_00: And because of that, their skin is very sensitive and inflamed.
• 5:26
  SPEAKER_00: And that led me to think, you know, there's not really a great medical-grade skincare that's also formulated clean.
• 5:36
  SPEAKER_00: And clean is a unique word because it can mean a lot of different things to different people.
• 5:40
  SPEAKER_00: But I was really looking for a medical-grade skincare line that gave real results, but that was extremely gentle and wouldn't induce sensitivities or have chemicals that dermatologists know can cause common skin allergies.
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  SPEAKER_00: So that was really where it all birthed from.
• 6:00
  SPEAKER_00: And while it may seem simple, it actually took a very long time to make because I wanted to add proven active ingredients that I know would work, but get rid of all the other filler ingredients and certain preservatives that we know do not need to be in skincare, but are commonly included in everyday formulas.
• 6:22
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
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  SPEAKER_02: No, that makes a lot of sense.
• 6:24
  SPEAKER_02: And honestly, you know, this idea of clean skincare, I think um, you brought up a really great point.
• 6:30
  SPEAKER_02: And I and I've always really thought this, you know, even before people started clarifying the term, I was like, you know, I think the people we should be asking about what clean means are the doctors, because you know, clean is such an interesting word, you know.
• 6:46
  SPEAKER_02: Exactly.
• 6:46
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 6:47
  SPEAKER_00: And there's really no medical definition of clean, right?
• 6:50
  SPEAKER_00: So it's it's more of a term that's been invoked in the popular culture, especially skincare, um, to mean very different things.
• 6:59
  SPEAKER_00: So clean, you know, can mean not tested on animals, which of course we don't do, or um clean can mean, you know, devoid of certain ingredients like parabens, which we don't have, but it doesn't necessarily mean the same thing for every brand.
• 7:15
  SPEAKER_00: So I think it's important if you're a person that is looking for a clean beauty line, or if you have very sensitive skin, or if you know that you're allergic to a certain ingredient because you have had patch testing, for example, then it's really important to look at the ingredients and really study and analyze what you're putting on your skin.
• 7:34
  SPEAKER_02: Right, absolutely.
• 7:35
  SPEAKER_02: No, absolutely.
• 7:36
  SPEAKER_02: I 100% agree with you.
• 7:38
  SPEAKER_02: And I think that it's very cool that you've come up with a line that's easy to understand as well.
• 7:43
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, that's something that I think is very unique in the clinical grade skincare um realm because I see a lot of, you know, lines that are founded by dermatologists or doctors, which is wonderful.
• 7:54
  SPEAKER_02: But, you know, oftentimes I think for consumers, it becomes very hard to understand, you know, like what do we need?
• 8:00
  SPEAKER_02: What do we need in our routine?
• 8:02
  SPEAKER_02: So I really want to walk through the whole system with you because it's it's really, I like the way you've uh you've named everything.
• 8:09
  SPEAKER_02: So there's the serum.
• 8:11
  SPEAKER_02: Um, for everyone listening, there's a renewing serum and it's called the catalyst.
• 8:15
  SPEAKER_02: So I would love to start there, Dr.
• 8:16
  SPEAKER_02: Rossi.
• 8:17
  SPEAKER_02: You can explain, like, you know, what the idea behind the serum and what does it have that we absolutely need, you know, for our skin.
• 8:25
  SPEAKER_00: For sure.
• 8:26
  SPEAKER_00: So I mean, I have a love of science.
• 8:27
  SPEAKER_00: You know, I was a biochemistry major as my background and a medical school.
• 8:31
  SPEAKER_00: So I love these scientific names.
• 8:32
  SPEAKER_00: And, you know, that was a little play on that.
• 8:35
  SPEAKER_00: Um, so the catalyst is the intense renewing serum.
• 8:39
  SPEAKER_00: And the line is formulated with what I call the biotheria complex.
• 8:44
  SPEAKER_00: So that's a blend of a peptide.
• 8:47
  SPEAKER_00: So the the line is based in this peptide that is actually was found in a C anemone, which is a C animal, right?
• 8:54
  SPEAKER_00: Um, but we don't actually harm any animals.
• 8:57
  SPEAKER_00: It's now it's it now synthetically made, but that's where the peptide was first discovered.
• 9:01
  SPEAKER_00: And what that peptide does is it actually targets the TRPV1 receptor.
• 9:06
  SPEAKER_00: And this TRPV1 receptor that we have in our skin, we have it in many cells throughout the body, but it's also found in the skin.
• 9:13
  SPEAKER_00: It actually transmits sensitivities that we feel as temperature or pain, but it also is involved in aging of the skin as well through enzymatic degradation of the collagen or breakdown of the collagen.
• 9:29
  SPEAKER_00: So it's it's a really interesting receptor, and this peptide can target that.
• 9:34
  SPEAKER_00: So in doing so, it not only helps to calm sensitivity, but also helps in the aging process.
• 9:40
  SPEAKER_00: And I did clinical testing on this line.
• 9:43
  SPEAKER_00: So we we enrolled patients throughout for each of the items, except the leave off, the wash-off face off, uh, face cleanser.
• 9:54
  SPEAKER_00: But we did clinical testing on all the other products and it showed reduction in signs of skin sensitivity and of signs of aging, which is really important because I do think that clinical testing is important to show that what results you can actually get with skincare.
• 10:10
  SPEAKER_02: Of course, of course.
• 10:11
  SPEAKER_02: I think it should be like um like a mandatory thing for anyone that comes out with a skincare line.
• 10:17
  SPEAKER_02: You know, I always say like, uh, if you're interested in making a skincare line, you need to make sure that you have the funding to do trials because there's a skin is an organ, you know, hand hands down, you can't treat it like a makeup line or something.
• 10:32
  SPEAKER_02: That's very interesting about the respecter though, um, that you mentioned.
• 10:35
  SPEAKER_02: Uh, I I'm very interested in that because the topic of collagen stimulation, you know, and uh just the production of the things we need in our dermal layer, it comes up a lot, you know, especially in a lot of the interviews uh that I hold that it the this concept comes up a lot.
• 10:53
  SPEAKER_02: So is this a new, like a new discovery?
• 10:56
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, has this come out recently or when did this really uh come to light?
• 11:00
  SPEAKER_02: What you're what you mentioned about that receptor?
• 11:03
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, well, it's great.
• 11:04
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, I think it's great to get a deep dive into the science.
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  SPEAKER_00: So the receptor was found many, many years ago in cells.
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  SPEAKER_00: And the people who actually discovered that receptor, they won the Nobel Prize recently, which is quite fortuitous.
• 11:18
  SPEAKER_00: So it's a really important discovery because this receptor is involved in many processes, but it's also found in skin cells and in keratinocytes.
• 11:26
  SPEAKER_00: So I was really interested in that because it's a way to target um sensitivity, you know, from the topical standpoint and from the idea of aging because of collagen breakdown from a topical standpoint.
• 11:39
  SPEAKER_00: So I think, you know, the mechanism of action is really unique.
• 11:44
  SPEAKER_00: And we are always, you know, living in this world, we're always combated with irritants, right?
• 11:49
  SPEAKER_00: So environmental irritants, pollutants, uh, you know, hydrocarbons that if we live in a big city, we're always coming into contact with.
• 11:57
  SPEAKER_00: And of course, UV radiation.
• 12:00
  SPEAKER_00: So our skin is always being inundated by things that are leading to oxidation or to skin um cell sort of degradation.
• 12:09
  SPEAKER_00: And this can all affect how our skin looks and how it feels.
• 12:13
  SPEAKER_00: And many people come in inflamed or uh what they think they might have rosacea, which is like a clinical diagnosis.
• 12:21
  SPEAKER_00: So a lot of patients will come in and say, you know, oh, I think I have rosacea, or, you know, I'm really inflamed.
• 12:27
  SPEAKER_00: And it brings up a good concept of this topic called inflamma aging, which is something that's also being researched, how the process of chronic inflammation can lead to aging, not just of the skin, but people are looking at this in the body as well.
• 12:41
  SPEAKER_00: Chronic inflammation in our body, could that lead to aging of our cells?
• 12:46
  SPEAKER_00: So I think it's there's a lot of research that's going on in this field, but I was really keen on applying it to the skin.
• 12:53
  SPEAKER_00: And that's where this biotheria complex comes in because not only does it have the peptide derived from the C anemone, but it also has niacinamide, which is a potent antioxidant, as well as hyaluronic acid, which we all know and love as a as an ingredient.
• 13:10
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 13:11
  SPEAKER_02: No, I really love that you know, you've got the niacinamide.
• 13:15
  SPEAKER_02: And I actually wanted to, I was excited about hosting you because niacinamide, I don't know if you've seen the literature, but they're now discovering that like it's actually going and impacting how brain tumors are responding.
• 13:29
  SPEAKER_02: So it's shrinking brain tumors.
• 13:31
  SPEAKER_02: This ingredient specifically is so uni, it's just so wonderful.
• 13:35
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm so glad that your your products have this in it, you know, in in addition to everything else, because um, you know, I see a lot of lines and they're just uh you don't have it, you know, it's like you you have to figure out what are the essentials, right?
• 13:49
  SPEAKER_02: And skin health and skin care.
• 13:51
  SPEAKER_02: So that's very interesting to me.
• 13:53
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah.
• 13:54
  SPEAKER_00: No, I I I totally agree with you.
• 13:55
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, these ingredients that I chose, I didn't just throw um, you know, all the different types of active ingredients you could possibly have in a skincare line because A, you know, you it sort of becomes very cumbersome.
• 14:08
  SPEAKER_00: And then you have to add certain percentages of ingredients to actually have them have some sort of activity.
• 14:14
  SPEAKER_00: So if you just try to throw every known hero ingredient into a bottle, uh, you probably won't get a concentration that you really need, right?
• 14:23
  SPEAKER_00: Because things are not soluble or like dissolve, they can't dissolve in other things.
• 14:27
  SPEAKER_00: So it's where the chemistry of skincare comes into play.
• 14:30
  SPEAKER_00: And I'm sure your listeners, you know, probably love and know that because certain things are soluble in certain ingredients.
• 14:38
  SPEAKER_00: And I wanted to be really curated and be really specific about the ingredients that I chose.
• 14:44
  SPEAKER_00: All these ingredients have real proven effects in the literature, and they're meant to complement each other.
• 14:51
  SPEAKER_00: And of course, there were all the ingredients that we don't need that I took out because things like preservatives, uh formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, those just irritate the skin.
• 15:03
  SPEAKER_00: And if we don't need them, why would we include them?
• 15:06
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 15:06
  SPEAKER_02: And also like going back to your point about inflammation, you know, I think this concept of just inflammation being this catalyst of aging is now coming to the forefront, you know, when it comes to skin health.
• 15:21
  SPEAKER_02: I think people and consumers, as consumers especially, are starting to get on board with the idea that, you know, when your skin looks red after you do some sort of home peel, that's not the best thing.
• 15:32
  SPEAKER_02: You know, it's not something that you should be like excited about.
• 15:36
  SPEAKER_02: It's it's actually the inflammation that's causing a long-term effect of aging.
• 15:41
  SPEAKER_02: So I um, you know, I want you to like actually speak a little bit on that because I know another product you have is called it's called the solution for everyone listening.
• 15:48
  SPEAKER_02: And it's um, you know, it's got the lactic uh lactic acid in it, I believe, right?
• 15:54
  SPEAKER_02: And it's a research agent.
• 15:56
  SPEAKER_02: So um love for you to speak about this product and how you formulated it and you know, just how it works.
• 16:02
  SPEAKER_00: Of course, yeah, no, for sure.
• 16:03
  SPEAKER_00: And I inflammation, I I really am super excited about the research going into this topic because it's not just with skin health, but it's also in a lot of chronic inflammatory diseases that people are coming into contact with, like diabetes or atherosclerosis, which is affecting us inside the body.
• 16:22
  SPEAKER_00: And it's the idea that just chronic inflammation with time and and longevity can really cause tissue damage depending on what that tissue is.
• 16:32
  SPEAKER_00: But for us, you know, we're talking about skin.
• 16:34
  SPEAKER_00: So it you do really want to decrease the inflammation that's happening in your skin.
• 16:39
  SPEAKER_00: So I do tell my patients, you know, the idea that you need 12 steps to accomplish a skincare line is probably not needed, right?
• 16:48
  SPEAKER_00: That's a lot of things that you're putting on your skin that can irritate the barrier of the skin.
• 16:53
  SPEAKER_00: And the idea is not to irritate the barrier, but it's to complement the barrier and really help restore the barrier because you want to protect that.
• 17:02
  SPEAKER_00: And that protects our skin from the outside influences, the outside pollutants.
• 17:07
  SPEAKER_00: Um, so when you are doing things like resurfacing or chemical peels, dermatologists are really specific about what we use because we want to control any damage or inflammation that's happening in the skin.
• 17:20
  SPEAKER_00: Yes, we want to improve the skin with certain techniques, but we also want to limit the collateral damage.
• 17:26
  SPEAKER_00: And so the solution is my idea of what a resurfacing essence would be.
• 17:32
  SPEAKER_00: Because it's an essence for me is like a toner, but you know, it it unlike a toner, it's not harsh, it's not an astringent.
• 17:41
  SPEAKER_00: And this does have a low level of lactic acid in it, which is really important because lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid.
• 17:48
  SPEAKER_00: So it helps with the skin turnover and with the cell cycle turnover.
• 17:53
  SPEAKER_00: So it's going to help um not only exfoliate, but also help the cells turnover.
• 17:57
  SPEAKER_00: But the the lactic acid is also um mixed with a very strong moisturizer, uh, shea butter moisturizer base.
• 18:05
  SPEAKER_00: So it's not runny like a toner.
• 18:08
  SPEAKER_00: It's not, it's not like just a pure liquid, it's more of a solution.
• 18:12
  SPEAKER_00: And that's why I call it that, because you're gonna feel the moisturizing effect of it, but you're gonna get the benefits of the niacinamide and the lactic acid.
• 18:21
  SPEAKER_00: And that's gonna help turn over the dead skin cells, get rid of those, but also uh improve the skin texture and the tone, because in the clinical trials we showed brighter skin, and patients reported brighter skin, more even skin tone in just four weeks.
• 18:37
  SPEAKER_00: And that's really because the lactic acid with the niacinamide, as well as there's other antioxidants in there, like nettle leaf extract, and there is the C anemone peptide, C anemide derag peptide.
• 18:51
  SPEAKER_00: So uh that's really gonna help overall with the texture, the tone, and the brightness.
• 18:56
  SPEAKER_00: And we know niacinamide is also good for hyperpigmentation because it can help uh decrease that.
• 19:02
  SPEAKER_02: Right.
• 19:02
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 19:03
  SPEAKER_02: Now, I do want to ask you though, why did you choose lactic acid versus glycolic?
• 19:09
  SPEAKER_02: Because I think that's an interesting area for me.
• 19:12
  SPEAKER_02: Um, I know that glycolic acid has been studied very extensively in um, you know, in research from the research side.
• 19:19
  SPEAKER_02: And uh they've you know, they've shown a lot of evidence about how it can really help with, for example, if you have acne, it'll help a lot with kind of breaking apart the cells that kind of clump together and they lead to acne and all of that.
• 19:34
  SPEAKER_02: So, why did you choose a lactic acid instead of the glycolic acid?
• 19:39
  SPEAKER_00: Oh, it's a great question.
• 19:40
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, lactic acid and glycolic acid are both alpha hydroxy acids.
• 19:46
  SPEAKER_00: Um they're very similar.
• 19:47
  SPEAKER_00: And so they have the same goals and mechanisms, right?
• 19:52
  SPEAKER_00: Which is almost like a chemical exfoliant to uh exfoliate the skin cells, get rid of the dead stratum corneum, which is the topmost layer of the epidermis, which is made up of dead skin cells.
• 20:03
  SPEAKER_00: So alpha hydroxy acids have the ability to break those bonds between the skin cells that are holding them together, and that's why you exfoliate or peel after you do these types of acids, right?
• 20:16
  SPEAKER_00: The thing about lactic acid versus glycolic acid, which is a great point, and that's the reason why I chose it, is that glycolic acid is a little smaller of a molecule and it actually can penetrate a little bit deeper.
• 20:29
  SPEAKER_00: And so you're going to get more um sort of the exfoliation with that.
• 20:34
  SPEAKER_00: It is good for acne.
• 20:36
  SPEAKER_00: Lactic acid, it does the very similar goals, but it's a bit larger of a molecule, so it actually remains more superficial.
• 20:44
  SPEAKER_00: And this is makes it much more tolerable between the two.
• 20:49
  SPEAKER_00: And so I wanted this to be used even for people with sensitive skin because we want the benefits of the alpha hydroxy acid without the downsides, the irritation, the redness.
• 21:00
  SPEAKER_00: And many people can become really irritated to glycolic acid because they can A, use it maybe too much, or B, uh it's just too harsh for their skin.
• 21:10
  SPEAKER_02: Oh, that makes so much sense.
• 21:12
  SPEAKER_02: That makes so much sense.
• 21:13
  SPEAKER_02: And that's interesting because I know that people love using acids in their routine.
• 21:17
  SPEAKER_02: So I'm glad that you clarified that for us.
• 21:20
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah.
• 21:21
  SPEAKER_00: And the the the history goes that Cleopatra used to use rotten milk or spoiled milk because that is actually produces lactic acid.
• 21:31
  SPEAKER_00: So when milk spoils, like lactic acid is produced.
• 21:34
  SPEAKER_00: And the the story goes is that she used to bathe in that type of spoiled milk and it would help her skin, which I thought was I always loved the history of skincare.
• 21:44
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, that's so cool.
• 21:45
  SPEAKER_02: And you know, it's interesting you brought up Cleopatra.
• 21:47
  SPEAKER_02: I always try to bring up uh Egyptian culture when it comes to oils, because I'm always so intrigued.
• 21:53
  SPEAKER_02: I'm like, you know, people used to use oils to like preserve their bodies and like even, you know, and and that's very interesting though.
• 21:59
  SPEAKER_02: I Yeah.
• 22:02
  SPEAKER_00: Um I love those little like uh sort of historical facts on skincare because really, you know, skincare has been around for so long.
• 22:10
  SPEAKER_00: And it's really important to know the roots.
• 22:13
  SPEAKER_02: No, I absolutely agree with you.
• 22:14
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's very, very interesting.
• 22:16
  SPEAKER_02: And also, you know, I I actually want to ask you now that we're talking about um, you know, like I mentioned oils, right?
• 22:23
  SPEAKER_02: So this kind of like needs me to ask you about your night complex because I really love it.
• 22:28
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I just wanted to, I really want to give a huge shout out to this product because it's a for me, I'm a huge night.
• 22:35
  SPEAKER_02: Like, if I can put something on and it's like a it's deeply nourishing and it's it's gonna help my me wake up with better skin.
• 22:43
  SPEAKER_02: Like I'm a huge fan of those kind of products, and this is definitely sitting on my vanity.
• 22:48
  SPEAKER_02: I use it every night.
• 22:49
  SPEAKER_02: And I really want you to talk about this product that you created for the nighttime because um I noticed there's not a retinol in the line, but this specific product is amazing.
• 22:59
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it leaves my skin when I wake up.
• 23:01
  SPEAKER_02: Um, for everyone listening, you know, it's very dewy, it's very plumped up, it's exactly what I want it to be, you know.
• 23:08
  SPEAKER_02: Um, and so I would love to learn about that.
• 23:10
  SPEAKER_02: Like what really led to you creating this product.
• 23:13
  SPEAKER_00: Oh, yeah.
• 23:13
  SPEAKER_00: Thank you.
• 23:14
  SPEAKER_00: I mean, you're so astute because I purposely did not put retinol in any of these products because I, as a dermatologist, often prescribe retinod, which is the prescription strength, and a retinol is a derivative of retinoid, which are both vitamin A derivatives.
• 23:32
  SPEAKER_00: But and retinoids are great.
• 23:34
  SPEAKER_00: Dermatologists use them all the time because they do help with skin turnover, but not everyone can tolerate retinol and retinoids.
• 23:41
  SPEAKER_00: And I do think they're overused or misused because so many people are using them so much in multiple products that they don't even realize that their skin is actually becoming more retinized or more inflamed because you can get something called a retinoid dermatitis.
• 23:58
  SPEAKER_00: Um that's it's that's one of the reasons why I didn't put it in.
• 24:03
  SPEAKER_00: The the great thing about this line is that you can actually use it with your prescription strength retinoid if you're already on it.
• 24:10
  SPEAKER_00: Um, but that is an awesome point, and I'm glad you brought it up.
• 24:15
  SPEAKER_00: The night synthesis is a restructuring concentrate that's meant for overnight.
• 24:20
  SPEAKER_00: It's probably the hero ingredient and one that I really love.
• 24:23
  SPEAKER_00: It's the hero product, sorry.
• 24:25
  SPEAKER_00: Uh, because it's so thick and rich, and it's meant to really hydrate the skin overnight and do what it's supposed to do the best, which is at night our body repairs itself.
• 24:37
  SPEAKER_00: It repairs the cellular processes.
• 24:40
  SPEAKER_00: You know, while we're sleeping, um we're trying to rebuild uh things that we've used during the day, right?
• 24:47
  SPEAKER_00: And so the same with skin, we we want to improve the barrier, we want to protect it, we want to moisturize it, we want to hydrate it.
• 24:54
  SPEAKER_00: Um, and then also it gives us a chance for the active ingredients to sit on our skin without being rubbed off or removed.
• 25:02
  SPEAKER_00: And so the night synthesis is super rich and it's going to not only hydrate the skin, but it's gonna allow the active ingredients, the biotheria complex that has the C anemone peptide, the niacinamide, the hyuronic acid, to do its work.
• 25:17
  SPEAKER_00: And so those are potent antioxidants that sit on the skin.
• 25:21
  SPEAKER_00: And the hydration comes from all the humectants and the moisturizers in there.
• 25:26
  SPEAKER_00: So humectants are molecules that have the property to absorb water and really trap that water onto the skin.
• 25:34
  SPEAKER_00: So things like swaline are in there, shea butter, and there is even a coconut oil in there.
• 25:39
  SPEAKER_00: And some people, you know, get worried that coconut oil uh would be chetogenic, which means would be like acne forming, but it's not at a high level.
• 25:48
  SPEAKER_00: And and coconut oil has even been shown in the literature to help with acne because of its antibacterial properties.
• 25:54
  SPEAKER_00: So I know some people get worried about oils, but when they're used in the right concentration and in the right formulation, they can really help nourish the skin.
• 26:04
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, no, I think that this is a beautiful product.
• 26:07
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, it's really been for me um actually very unique, exactly for what the reasons you described, which is it's not, it doesn't have all those crazy ingredients.
• 26:17
  SPEAKER_02: Like I feel like everything now has some sort of a vitamin A derivative in it, you know, for a night product.
• 26:23
  SPEAKER_02: And I just it drives me insane because I'm like, I don't need that.
• 26:27
  SPEAKER_02: I don't think I just don't want it in my skincare tune.
• 26:31
  SPEAKER_02: I just want something that's going to protect my skin overnight, put in the hydrate or leave the hydration in, help me have a dewy appearance in the morning, and then I'm good to go.
• 26:40
  SPEAKER_02: And this is exactly what this does.
• 26:41
  SPEAKER_02: And it's so easy to like drop in a bag or like carry with you.
• 26:46
  SPEAKER_02: I love that.
• 26:48
  SPEAKER_00: I love it.
• 26:49
  SPEAKER_00: I and then you know, because I thought about everyone.
• 26:52
  SPEAKER_00: This this line is for all skin types and all people, right?
• 26:56
  SPEAKER_00: Regardless of gender, regardless of ethnicity.
• 26:59
  SPEAKER_00: Our my approach to skin is that biologically, skin is very similar between different genders, between different races.
• 27:07
  SPEAKER_00: Um, there are differences, but those differences are not as drastic as people make them out to be in the terms of function of the skin and biology of the skin, right?
• 27:18
  SPEAKER_00: An interesting fact is that like we all have the same number of melanocytes in our skin, which are the pigment-producing cells, um, but we make different amounts of melanin.
• 27:29
  SPEAKER_00: And I always think that's a fun and interesting fact about the skin.
• 27:32
  SPEAKER_00: So, all genders, all races have the same number of melanocytes.
• 27:37
  SPEAKER_00: We just make different amounts of melanin depending on where we have evolved from, which is super interesting.
• 27:44
  SPEAKER_00: And so, retinol, you know, can't be used in people who are pregnant and you know, many other people who cannot tolerate them.
• 27:50
  SPEAKER_00: So, again, it's like one of the reasons why I didn't uh include retinol in this product or any of the products.
• 27:57
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's, you know, and the thing is, you know, even getting away from retinol, it's like there's very few products out there that are um able to do this, what the night synthesis is designed to do, which is basically, you know, a lot of us have very busy jobs, you know, you go through your day, and part of that is that you're gonna run into obviously the pollution, the environment, you know, the things that are just sucking the life out of your skin, right?
• 28:22
  SPEAKER_02: Like literally the moisture.
• 28:24
  SPEAKER_02: So if you can come home at night and then just, you know, put on a cream that is going to just rejuvenate all of that moisture, all of that good stuff that's gonna balance you out again.
• 28:35
  SPEAKER_02: That's I think that's something we need to see more of in this industry.
• 28:38
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, people, I think it's almost like you look at it as tryharding, you know, some of the lines I see because I'm like, why are you putting in like 18 different acids and like, you know, then you got the retinol in there, and then you got some crazy.
• 28:52
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, I we don't need all of that.
• 28:54
  SPEAKER_02: So I think it's just such a sophisticated and simple formula, but it's it's obviously, you know, not simple.
• 29:00
  SPEAKER_02: It there's a lot of science behind it.
• 29:03
  SPEAKER_00: But yeah, no, I think I want people to realize that, you know, as a dermatologist, I really take pride in putting out a line that means something and also has real clinical results.
• 29:13
  SPEAKER_00: And many times, you know, there the science behind some of the formulations that are out there don't make a lot of sense because certain things will inactivate retinol, right?
• 29:24
  SPEAKER_00: If you in if you include it with other ingredients, you may deactivate the retinol or you may make the other active ingredient not work as well.
• 29:33
  SPEAKER_00: So there's a lot of science about the formulations that go into this.
• 29:37
  SPEAKER_00: And I really took a long time to take a deep dive.
• 29:41
  SPEAKER_00: And I really love the idea of peptide-based skincare because these peptides have activity and they also have great formulations, which the sensorial aspect, how you feel when you put them on, really means a lot because you want to take pride in you know your skincare routine.
• 29:59
  SPEAKER_00: And like you said, after a long and busy day, it's great to you know be able to clean your face, wash it, and then add something onto it that is going to really help uh maintain the look and feel that you want.
• 30:13
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 30:14
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 30:14
  SPEAKER_02: I couldn't agree more.
• 30:15
  SPEAKER_02: And I I think that you've really knocked it out of the park with this whole line.
• 30:19
  SPEAKER_02: I'm just such a fan of every product.
• 30:22
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, even the eye cream, you know, I that's the that's the product I really wanted to touch on um in the end because for me, I'm a huge eye cream, like like when it comes to eye creams, I'm I'm very, very skeptical.
• 30:35
  SPEAKER_02: Let's just put it that way.
• 30:36
  SPEAKER_02: And I the reason for that is because I feel like every eye cream I've come across is like, oh, well, this is gonna improve your dark circles or this is gonna stop the puffiness or blah, blah, blah.
• 30:46
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm like, you know what?
• 30:47
  SPEAKER_02: Why don't you just give me something that's going to keep things normal, you know?
• 30:53
  SPEAKER_02: And I and I really love your eye cream.
• 30:55
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's a wonderful product.
• 30:56
  SPEAKER_02: And I would love for you to like tell us what your take on eye um eye products is, because I think very little is known about that, right?
• 31:04
  SPEAKER_02: Like in terms of the skin around the eyes.
• 31:07
  SPEAKER_02: And I mean, we all know that it's thinner skin, but also just understanding like what can we put around the eye area.
• 31:14
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I agree.
• 31:15
  SPEAKER_00: I think there's so much um misconception about eye creams and about the under-eye area.
• 31:22
  SPEAKER_00: It's something obviously we're all drawn to because we look at people every day and we always make eye contact, right?
• 31:29
  SPEAKER_00: So eye contact is really important to convey emotions, to convey your feelings.
• 31:34
  SPEAKER_00: So you want to make eye contact, but people are very insecure about their under-eye area because, like you said, it's one of the thinnest skin parts of the body.
• 31:43
  SPEAKER_00: And that thin skin can show a lot of imperfection.
• 31:46
  SPEAKER_00: It can show the blood vessels that are underneath that area, because we have a lot of blood vessels, obviously, in that area because they're feeding the eyeball, which makes sense biologically.
• 31:56
  SPEAKER_00: But the blood vessels can give off a hue, right?
• 31:59
  SPEAKER_00: They can give off a blue hue or a dark hue that can contribute to the dark circle appearance.
• 32:06
  SPEAKER_00: There's also a lot of inflammation in this area because the skin is so thin and sensitive, allergies around the eye can be quite common.
• 32:13
  SPEAKER_00: So eyelid dermatitis or an eyelid rash can happen from many different products.
• 32:18
  SPEAKER_00: And it's always important to test any product that you're using, especially around the eye area.
• 32:24
  SPEAKER_00: I tell people to test it on their forearm to at least it's a use test, right?
• 32:29
  SPEAKER_00: That's what we call a use test to make sure that they're not irritated or alert allergic to any product that they're using.
• 32:36
  SPEAKER_00: So that's a given for any skincare.
• 32:38
  SPEAKER_00: I like to, I like to say do the use test.
• 32:41
  SPEAKER_00: Um, but back to the eye area, it's it's an area that's not only prone to inflammation but swelling, right?
• 32:48
  SPEAKER_00: We collect a lot of water under there.
• 32:50
  SPEAKER_00: So your eyes can look puffy, especially when you wake up.
• 32:53
  SPEAKER_00: So the idea of this of my eye cure is that I call it an emulsion because it's not a cream.
• 33:00
  SPEAKER_00: Cream in in dermatology or or chemistry is mainly water-based.
• 33:06
  SPEAKER_00: Um, a gel is more alcohol-based.
• 33:10
  SPEAKER_00: And so I didn't call it any of those.
• 33:12
  SPEAKER_00: I called it an emulsion because it's sort of a hybrid of different formulations and it feels differently than most other products that are out there.
• 33:23
  SPEAKER_00: So I I encourage everyone to take a feel.
• 33:26
  SPEAKER_00: And it has a very good cooling sensation, which is important around this area to depuff.
• 33:32
  SPEAKER_00: And again, it has the biotheria complex.
• 33:34
  SPEAKER_00: So it has the peptide, it has the niacinamide, and it has the hyaluronic acid.
• 33:39
  SPEAKER_00: Uh, it also has an amino uh amino acid complex, which are important with amino amino acids around this area because the skin is so thin that it is able to absorb more products than most other types of skin.
• 33:53
  SPEAKER_00: Um, what it doesn't have is it doesn't have vitamin C.
• 33:57
  SPEAKER_00: It doesn't have ascorbic acid.
• 33:59
  SPEAKER_00: And I purposely again left this out because I think many people get irritated to vitamin C.
• 34:05
  SPEAKER_00: And also the biology of vitamin C is interesting.
• 34:08
  SPEAKER_00: While many people think that they definitely need it, it's important because you have to ingest vitamin C for collagen production.
• 34:14
  SPEAKER_00: So you have to take in vitamin C in you know in your diet.
• 34:18
  SPEAKER_00: Um, it's an important vitamin, it's an important cofactor in making collagen the disease that actually happens if you don't take in enough vitamin C is scurvy.
• 34:27
  SPEAKER_00: Um but vitamin C on the skin is tricky because not all of it is absorbed and it can only be absorbed to a certain percentage.
• 34:36
  SPEAKER_00: And if you're intaking enough vitamin C inside the body, then technically you probably wouldn't absorb a lot through the skin, and it would mainly just sit on the skin as an antioxidant.
• 34:47
  SPEAKER_00: And I do think it can be quite irritating for some people.
• 34:50
  SPEAKER_00: So I did purposely leave it out.
• 34:52
  SPEAKER_00: And I know a lot of eye creams put vitamin C in there because it is it is a great molecule and it is, it does have uh good benefits, but it's something that we're ingesting anyway.
• 35:03
  SPEAKER_00: And for me, I wanted to go more of the peptide-based route, the amino acid complex, as well as the C anemy peptide and the niacinamine, because this these help improve the skin integrity.
• 35:16
  SPEAKER_00: And our clinical study showed that just using the eye cure alone in this area, 92% of the participants saw a reduction in the number of fine lines and wrinkles.
• 35:27
  SPEAKER_00: And we used qualitative measures, like ask um asking the patient how they felt and how they looked, but also quantitative measures using camera analysis and digital photography to really analyze the fine lines, the wrinkles, the redness, the pores.
• 35:42
  SPEAKER_00: So a lot of a lot of uh work went into these clinical trials to really show our reduction and improvement in the skin.
• 35:50
  SPEAKER_02: I love that you mentioned that, the qualitative and and quantitative uh aspects of collecting data when it comes to you know over-the-counter products, because that's something that no one wants to talk about.
• 36:02
  SPEAKER_02: And I think, you know, I'd let me just say like the eye cream, I love it because I think it's a really, really great um, it's a great product for those of us who do use like under-eye concealer or something else, you know, in terms of makeup or whatever you use, because it's got such a smoothing um capacity, like it's able to smooth everything.
• 36:22
  SPEAKER_02: Like, you know, when I use it, all of the, even though I have fine lines and stuff under my eye, um, it just makes a really nice even canvas.
• 36:30
  SPEAKER_02: So whatever I put on top of the of the eye cream, it really helps in terms of keeping it, you know, just stable and not, you know, going into the creases and stuff of my eyes.
• 36:41
  SPEAKER_02: So I really, really enjoy this eye cream.
• 36:43
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's it's really great.
• 36:44
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm not a huge fan of the over, you know, just uh over-amplifying vitamin C in your routine either.
• 36:51
  SPEAKER_02: I think it's a little, you know, irritating to me to see that you know, certain products and certain ingredients have been picked up along the way, and we've just kind of, you know, like it's like beating a dead horse.
• 37:02
  SPEAKER_02: Like we keep doing this over and over again, you know, and it's like you don't need that.
• 37:07
  SPEAKER_02: You need new approaches.
• 37:08
  SPEAKER_02: And so I think this is a very, very cool approach.
• 37:10
  SPEAKER_02: And I really love it.
• 37:12
  SPEAKER_02: I love the eye cream.
• 37:13
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, no, thank you.
• 37:14
  SPEAKER_00: I I agree.
• 37:14
  SPEAKER_00: I think you know, part of the problem with skincare, and you know, you and I are uh skincare aficionados, we love it, right?
• 37:21
  SPEAKER_00: So, but we're seeing just like more and more products come out of the same ingredient, and yeah, that's fine and that's great, but I it's we want innovation, and innovation takes a while.
• 37:31
  SPEAKER_00: And this line for me took years to make because it's hard to change the gamut, it's hard to change the minds of you know chemists or manufacturers.
• 37:40
  SPEAKER_00: So it really took a lot of back and forth and trial and error and you know, tinkering with all the formulations, not only to get the right concentrations of ingredients, but also that that aspect, the feeling.
• 37:52
  SPEAKER_00: Like when you put this on, it just glides.
• 37:55
  SPEAKER_00: And for me, I love that feeling.
• 37:57
  SPEAKER_00: You know, I cheat.
• 37:58
  SPEAKER_00: I not only put it around my eyes, but I also, you know, spread it to other parts of the of the face.
• 38:03
  SPEAKER_00: Um, so for me, I'm always cheating a little bit with this.
• 38:07
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, I know it's a really, really product.
• 38:09
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm the same.
• 38:09
  SPEAKER_02: I put it on my cheeks, like that inner cheek area.
• 38:12
  SPEAKER_02: That's like a problem for me.
• 38:13
  SPEAKER_02: I put makeup on that area too.
• 38:15
  SPEAKER_02: So it's like it's a really nice product.
• 38:17
  SPEAKER_02: Like for everyone listening, by the way, it's like it's skincare and like a primer combined.
• 38:21
  SPEAKER_02: I don't know, like the the chemistry is really like solid for this product.
• 38:26
  SPEAKER_01: Thank you.
• 38:26
  SPEAKER_01: Yeah.
• 38:27
  SPEAKER_02: Yeah, it works really well.
• 38:28
  SPEAKER_02: No, you know, actually, Dr.
• 38:30
  SPEAKER_02: Rosie, I wanted to actually round out the interview and just give you like a huge, you know, hats off because I rarely see, you know, um dermatologist and someone with your background that has the chemistry background as well.
• 38:42
  SPEAKER_02: And I am a huge fan of that because like I'm not gonna lie, all the love out there for all the you know, uh cosmetic chemists and stuff, but it's very easy to become very narrow-sighted, you know, when it comes to formulations and not really looking at the human body, right?
• 38:59
  SPEAKER_02: Over as an overall picture.
• 39:01
  SPEAKER_02: And I think with your background, I mean, you've definitely done that here with your line, you know, in terms of not only do you know the chemistry, but you know the medicine and you know the dermatology and the the biology and all the other, you know, disciplines that go into understanding skin.
• 39:15
  SPEAKER_02: And that's for me as a consumer and as a medical, you know, colleague, it's it's for me, it's like very important for us to all really consider that when you're approaching your skin, you have to go to people who know it from the inside out, you know, and that requires that chemistry background.
• 39:31
  SPEAKER_02: That requires the you've done such a phenomenal job with this line.
• 39:36
  SPEAKER_02: I'm I'm very excited that you you gave this to us.
• 39:39
  SPEAKER_00: Oh no, thank you.
• 39:40
  SPEAKER_00: And you know, being a doctor, you know, I never, you know, we're doctors, so like, you know, we want to make sure that people are taking care of themselves wholly, right?
• 39:48
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, exercising, hydration, it's not just about what we put onto our skin, but it's also what we put into our body.
• 39:54
  SPEAKER_00: So, you know, I always talk to my patients and tell them, you know, of course, we want to we want to set you up with great skincare, but we also want to speak holistically and talk about, you know, how you're treating your body, how you're exercising, how you're maintaining hydration, what you're eating, what foods you're eating.
• 40:10
  SPEAKER_00: It's it all goes hand in hand.
• 40:13
  SPEAKER_02: Absolutely.
• 40:14
  SPEAKER_02: I 100% agree.
• 40:15
  SPEAKER_02: And I think for everyone listening, you know, you guys really, really have to check out this line.
• 40:20
  SPEAKER_02: It's a wonderful line.
• 40:21
  SPEAKER_02: I mean, and the fact that it's I love the packaging also.
• 40:25
  SPEAKER_02: I never got to mention that.
• 40:26
  SPEAKER_02: And I love the aesthetic of it because it's so friendly for all of the men out there that need good skincare in your routines.
• 40:34
  SPEAKER_02: Stop stealing your wife's skincare.
• 40:36
  SPEAKER_02: Okay.
• 40:37
  SPEAKER_00: Exactly.
• 40:38
  SPEAKER_00: Yeah, I know, I agree.
• 40:39
  SPEAKER_00: I think, you know, this is for all genders.
• 40:41
  SPEAKER_00: There's no fragrance in there.
• 40:43
  SPEAKER_00: And because, you know, I feel like fragrances are just meant to like genderize skincare, right?
• 40:49
  SPEAKER_00: It's the same formulations that people are making, they're just putting a musky scent into something that's called for a man, but like, why are we genderizing skincare?
• 40:58
  SPEAKER_00: You know?
• 40:59
  SPEAKER_02: No, exactly.
• 41:00
  SPEAKER_02: And it's like, you know, it's all about the quality of the product.
• 41:03
  SPEAKER_02: So, you know, if you um men and women, anyone listening, you know, if you really are looking for a line that is gonna get to the point and it's not like a million steps where you have to figure out what goes first, what goes last, this is the perfect solution for you.
• 41:17
  SPEAKER_02: And I really urge you guys check out Dr.
• 41:19
  SPEAKER_02: Rosie's line.
• 41:20
  SPEAKER_02: I'm going to tag everything in the concept art for this episode.
• 41:23
  SPEAKER_02: But again, you know, Doc, thank you so much.
• 41:26
  SPEAKER_02: This is such a beautiful, beautiful product line that you've come out with.
• 41:29
  SPEAKER_02: And I'm I'm really excited to see what you do next.
• 41:32
  SPEAKER_00: Oh, thank you.
• 41:33
  SPEAKER_00: And as a as a next up is the actually, as a dermatologist, of course, you know, I have to advocate for uh sunscreen.
• 41:41
  SPEAKER_00: And the next uh product that's coming out is the day formula, which is a completely physical sunscreen made out of titanium dioxide that goes on shear.
• 41:52
  SPEAKER_00: So it's very hard to make a physical blocker that goes on shear, which can be used on any skin tone.
• 41:59
  SPEAKER_00: And I love the physical blockers because they block against UVA and UVB, and they're not as irritating as the chemical sunscreen.
• 42:07
  SPEAKER_00: So there is no chemical sunscreen filter in this, it's only physical, but it's also a really hydrating daytime moisturizer that's also containing niacinamide, that topical antioxidant.
• 42:19
  SPEAKER_00: So I call it a smart sunscreen that goes on shear, can be used for any skin tone.
• 42:24
  SPEAKER_00: That's called the day formula.
• 42:26
  SPEAKER_00: So watch out for this drop.
• 42:28
  SPEAKER_02: Oh my gosh, you have to send me that as soon as you can.
• 42:30
  SPEAKER_00: Yes, I will, of course.
• 42:32
  SPEAKER_02: Oh my gosh, so cool.
• 42:34
  SPEAKER_02: Wait, yeah, I've been uh I've been looking for a new sunscreen too.
• 42:37
  SPEAKER_02: So that sounds like absolutely fantastic.
• 42:39
  SPEAKER_02: I'm super to see that.
• 42:41
  SPEAKER_02: Um, well, everyone listening, thank you for tuning in as usual, and I will be back next time.
• 42:46
  SPEAKER_02: Thank you, Dr.
• 42:47
  SPEAKER_02: Osi.
• 42:48
  SPEAKER_00: Thank you so much.
• 42:49
  SPEAKER_00: Have a great summer.
• 42:51
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