Latest / Chef's PSA Podcast / Building a Restaurant Under Pressure With Emmanuel Chavez Episode 199
Transcript
- 0:00If we didn't get a start, it was going to be motivation for us to
- 0:02get a start. If we did get a start, I was
- 0:05going to make sure that the team understood that that start
- 0:08doesn't make us better than anyone, but we have more
- 0:12responsibility than anyone. Hello chefs.
- 0:15This is Chefs PSA and I'm your host Andre Natera.
- 0:17Today I'm joined by Chef Emmanuel Chavez of Tatamo in
- 0:20Houston, a Michelin starred chef whose tasting menu restaurant
- 0:23has earned national recognition, including Esquire's Best New
- 0:27Restaurants and a James Beard Best New Restaurant Finalist
- 0:30nod. In this episode we talked about
- 0:32the origins, the pressure of rapid success, and what it takes
- 0:35to build and run a Michelin level tasting menu in a tiny
- 0:38kitchen. We talked about growth,
- 0:39leadership, and finding your voice under pressure.
- 0:41Stay tuned. Chef, I'm glad you're here.
- 0:56I want to first of all congratulate you on all the
- 0:58success that you've achieved lately.
- 1:01So the Michelin star, congratulations, but you've
- 1:04you've been on a run. How did we get here?
- 1:07Like how did this run began? It is.
- 1:10Thank you for having us. It's super excited to be here.
- 1:12Massive fan. I don't know, things just kind
- 1:16of just happened so, so quickly. And then you have 30 seconds to
- 1:20yourself, whether it's in the restroom contemplating your
- 1:23whole career. And then you start to think back
- 1:25like, man, I'm 20 plus years into cooking.
- 1:28It's hasn't been that, that fast.
- 1:32But I, I, I love it that you started with, with the accolades
- 1:35because off camera we're talking about accolades, how they can be
- 1:38a double edged sword. And for restaurants like ours
- 1:41that people don't know that are the modern day small business
- 1:46mom and pop, so to speak there. We're not, we don't have the
- 1:50infrastructure for certain accolades.
- 1:53So when we started accumulating at a really fast pace, it
- 1:58definitely shifted how we tried our basically our whole five
- 2:04year plan changed. We're no longer to be making the
- 2:08mistakes that most restaurants or business owners were able to
- 2:10make. We had to tighten up the ship
- 2:13without having the infrastructure, the financial
- 2:15help or even the space to like be able to accommodate those
- 2:19accolades coming our way. When did the team open?
- 2:22We signed lease 2021, we open 2022.
- 2:25So there's like idea was born in the pandemic.
- 2:28Basically, yeah, we're while everyone was doing sourdough,
- 2:30we're doing tortillas. Yeah.
- 2:32And it kind of just didn't stop. When, when you opened it in
- 2:362021? So now we're in 2026.
- 2:39How different is it when you open to what it is now from a,
- 2:41from a food philosophy, from cuisine or even service?
- 2:45Everything when we started, we wanted to use, we wanted to do a
- 2:49restaurant, right, But pandemic restaurants didn't exist.
- 2:52So we shifted into wholesale. So now we had to learn how to
- 2:56create accounts, mass produced tortillas, give those the masa
- 3:01to other chefs to be able to do other things during the pandemic
- 3:03and specials. So we were no longer cooking.
- 3:05We would just we're providing a business or service.
- 3:09So that was very hard ship in, in my career 'cause I had no, I
- 3:14didn't know how to bulk anything up until something that was
- 3:19going to be used, utilized for some someone else being a chef.
- 3:23And you know, it's very selfish. Like my, my masa, my dish, my,
- 3:27my vision. It's no longer that.
- 3:28It's about the customer, the driving and delivery, the
- 3:31invoices and things of that. Once we got over the hump and
- 3:36things kind of just started to flourish and make sense for us,
- 3:40then we started going back and like, OK, this, this worked for
- 3:44us. This is funding itself.
- 3:47Let's go back into the restaurant and we've opened 16
- 3:51seated, 16 seats tasting menu. That wasn't a tasting menu.
- 3:55So you opened a la carte and then transition tasting?
- 3:57Menu No, we've opened brunch. Oh, you opened for brunch?
- 4:00Because we were doing pop ups, man.
- 4:02It's a bad word in a lot of places.
- 4:03It is. So it's funny because I, I, I
- 4:06have a, a line of clothing that I do for chefs.
- 4:09PSA it says Buck French and people ask me like, do I hate
- 4:13brunch? No, I don't hate it.
- 4:14Like I just I, I don't like working it and my gripe with
- 4:18brunch. So I want to, I want to make
- 4:20sure I go on record because I sometimes people like it like
- 4:22haters like what you know, brunches like I understand that
- 4:26my problem with brunch is sometimes a restaurant's not set
- 4:28up to deliver it. Correct.
- 4:30There's restaurants that are set up to deliver brunch, meaning to
- 4:32have an AM crew and APM crew and the AM crew knows how to work
- 4:35it. Where I have a problem with
- 4:37brunch is that it's the PM crew during dinner service Saturday
- 4:42night, the busiest service, prepping for brunch, closing,
- 4:47going out, partying, coming in hungover and opening for brunch.
- 4:50That's where I have a problem with brunch.
- 4:51So for people that aren't sure why I I hate brunch so much, I
- 4:55don't hate brunch. Like I understand it's also a
- 4:57great driver of revenue in the economic engine and it's a it's
- 5:01a great meal period. Like if you're paying rent on
- 5:07your property, like you're paying for that service when
- 5:10you're closed too. So why not be open?
- 5:12You're even, I'm excited you're paying for Sunday brunch rent,
- 5:14so might as well serve it. So I get that my thing is like,
- 5:17but if you're going to do it, don't do it to the detriment of
- 5:19your staff. Correct.
- 5:20No, I I agree 100% and I've worked in restaurants where it
- 5:23is exactly what you described. Saturday night service, we deep
- 5:27clean, leave at 1:00 AM and then come back at 7:00 AM and prep or
- 5:31I worked at restaurants where the Saturday night crew kind of
- 5:33tap into the prep for brunch and then you come in thinking you're
- 5:36ready to go and then your shallots are gone, your chives
- 5:39are gone and it's it's a mess. If it's not even structured
- 5:42properly, it can be been in the. Ass I I joke around.
- 5:45I say brunch is the only service that that ruined Sunday brunch
- 5:50ruined Saturday night dinner because because the cooks were
- 5:53busy prepping brunch instead of focusing about the orders.
- 5:56But I've come to realize that brunch actually makes some of
- 6:01the greatest cooks. If you endure brunch, if you
- 6:03love it, because brunch is more about nurturing people than the
- 6:06actual. It has to be a great dish,
- 6:08right? It's about commodity and
- 6:10understanding the you mean some plus list, understanding that
- 6:14you have to be up on time, that you have a responsibility to the
- 6:16team not to go out. But if you endure those things,
- 6:19Oh my God, you're going to have a very successful career.
- 6:22Yeah, So little things. So, so you, you open for brunch
- 6:26and then and then from there you transition into like, how do we
- 6:29go from brunch to tasting menu? We went from brunch because.
- 6:31It's funny. Well, people don't know if if
- 6:33you didn't pick up what I said earlier, they're not familiar
- 6:34with you. Like how do we go from brunch to
- 6:37Michelin *? That's a great question.
- 6:39We went from brunch. We started with brunch because
- 6:42we're doing the pop ups in between.
- 6:45So people knew of us through pop ups.
- 6:47So it was going to be very hard for us to just transition random
- 6:50like we no longer doing pancakes and because of the yes, we're
- 6:53going to do a tasty menu. So we understood the market,
- 6:56right? You have to like slowly make
- 6:57that transition. Instead of us doing pop ups, we
- 7:01had to bring people in. So how do you reap people in?
- 7:03By giving, by putting things on the plate that they trust you
- 7:07that they enjoy. So the smart thing for us was to
- 7:10start with brunch, get their trust back, get them to come to
- 7:13us, understand where the space is, the commute and things of
- 7:16that. Once we got through that hump,
- 7:19then slowly we started like, hey, now we're doing a tasting
- 7:21menu. It's going to be 4 courses.
- 7:23Two months in, that's five courses.
- 7:25That's 5565. Little by little we start
- 7:28adding. The thing that we I think worked
- 7:30for us is that we didn't do it with an ego.
- 7:32People open restaurants with egos and not with business
- 7:36plans. We open it with a business plan
- 7:38and not with the ego. So we slowly increased what we
- 7:45were able to do and that kind of helped.
- 7:48Those kind of got it. Once we got the first accolate,
- 7:52then we started to attract cooks.
- 7:53What was the first big accolade that you got that started?
- 7:56You started to see the shift and not only how you operated but
- 7:59also in attracting. Cooks, I think, if I'm not
- 8:02wrong, Squire named those one of the, I think it's 5025, best in
- 8:08America, 2022. And I do think they rank them.
- 8:12If I'm not mistaken, I think we ranked at 10 and that tracked a
- 8:16lot of got a lot of attraction because before that in Houston,
- 8:21there was in a lot of restaurants coming up in the in
- 8:24a national way in the national life locally, yeah, left and
- 8:27right, we open restaurants nationally.
- 8:29I think we're one after maybe Oxford by Justin that was kind
- 8:34of being recognized at a national level and that
- 8:37definitely piqued people's interest and started to see, oh
- 8:40wow, the pandemic, kids are doing something special and that
- 8:43just that came. Did you say the pandemic kids
- 8:46that's. Pandemic kids.
- 8:47Yeah, I liked it. It was those as a pandemic
- 8:49babies, kids. Yeah, OK.
- 8:51There's a lot of new. Restaurants there.
- 8:52Pandemic babies it is. Yeah, it's a lot of those out
- 8:54there. Yeah.
- 8:56How did it feel when you got that Esquire?
- 8:59Like, like when you started to realize that, hey, OK, this is
- 9:03something, how did it, how did that Esquire feel when it first
- 9:07came out? Honestly didn't feel like
- 9:08anything because I didn't. I knew we weren't ready for it.
- 9:11But you thought you weren't ready.
- 9:12For it. I knew we weren't ready for it
- 9:14again, not from a legal standpoint from like, OK, we're
- 9:17going to get busy. People are going to expect more
- 9:19from us. We don't have the infrastructure
- 9:21for it. So now we got to be very careful
- 9:24how how we take this, right? Let's take the compliment, but
- 9:28then let's move past it. It doesn't exist the following
- 9:31day. Just put it away.
- 9:32It's going to be there forever, right?
- 9:34But let's little by little, let's not say yes to everything.
- 9:37We don't have to do every pop up.
- 9:38We don't have to do every chef guess.
- 9:40Slowly start building a culture within the team.
- 9:43Let's start bringing in more talent, teaching them properly,
- 9:45and then we'll see what what where that gets us.
- 9:48That's really mature. Of you by the way, I I I know
- 9:51like a lot of people that get a little bit of shine.
- 9:53It's like I'm the fucking best it.
- 9:56Doesn't work like that. Yeah, it doesn't work like that.
- 9:59Fresh news one day or news the next day.
- 10:01It's the cycle of life. Yeah, how did?
- 10:04OK, so let me let me ask you this because you were also
- 10:07nominated for James Beard. I think the following year,
- 10:11right? And then that was the same year
- 10:14that you achieved your first Michelin *.
- 10:17No, so right after this Squire 2023, we got finalists for best
- 10:22new restaurant James B Foundation.
- 10:25That definitely felt a little bit more nerve wracking I guess
- 10:31because people were like Oh my God, like 16 seater at that
- 10:35point. I can tell you our menu fucking
- 10:37sucked. We weren't, that wasn't what it
- 10:40is now. We're still very fresh.
- 10:42We're on that one year mark trying to figure out making a
- 10:45lot of mistakes. I was making a lot of mistakes
- 10:47with their ordering, leading the team.
- 10:50I think leading the team were was my some of my biggest, not
- 10:54regrets, but lessons learned early on.
- 10:56What do you mean? I wanted it to be like the
- 10:59restaurants that I came up in. Very not hostile, but definitely
- 11:05very intense because I, I enjoyed it, but that didn't mean
- 11:10that the team that was there enjoyed it.
- 11:13They were definitely not there for that.
- 11:14So I had to separate my, my beliefs and my experiences to
- 11:19what my restaurant needed and was becoming.
- 11:24And that's where I go bike once and needs.
- 11:26Kitchens are brutal right now, everyone knows it.
- 11:28Fewer people on the line, margins tighter than ever, and
- 11:31somehow the expectations keep going up.
- 11:34There's just no room to miss anymore.
- 11:35I was talking to a chef recently who said the biggest stress
- 11:38wasn't the volume, it was the mental load.
- 11:41Babysitting, food, timing, everything perfectly, trying to
- 11:44be everywhere at once. And that's where equipment
- 11:47matters more than people want to admit.
- 11:49Rationals Technology comes up a lot in those conversations.
- 11:52The Icon B Pro, the Ivario Pro overnight roast that don't need
- 11:56to be checked, custom programs for all your recipes,
- 11:59consistency without hovering completely automated cleaning,
- 12:03monitoring everything from your phone, the list goes on.
- 12:05And what really buys you the headspace?
- 12:08Less standing over pans and more time to leave the kitchen
- 12:11instead of constantly putting out tiny fires.
- 12:13When you're down to cook, When the prep list is rough, when the
- 12:17production ramps up. Think rational.
- 12:19Why? Why do you think you enjoyed the
- 12:20intense kitchen? Because I did too.
- 12:23I like, I enjoy intense kitchen, but I, I also realized that in
- 12:28intense kitchens and kitchens were maybe the culture is a
- 12:33little bit different. A lot of it has to do with the
- 12:35people in those kitchens and you, you adapt a little bit.
- 12:39You know, if you have a group of very intense people, you could
- 12:42run it that way. But if you have people that are
- 12:44not that way, you can't run it that way.
- 12:45And I think a good chef understands how to get the best
- 12:49out of their team in a healthy way.
- 12:51Correct. And that's funny you said that
- 12:53because last year someone in my team that's been with me like
- 12:57almost three years brought that to my attention was like, hey,
- 13:01you're not so intense anymore. And I said the restaurant
- 13:05shifts, changes we have, I'm like the coach, right?
- 13:08I'm not the star player. You guys are the star players.
- 13:10I need to figure out your strengths and your weaknesses.
- 13:13And I have to like adjust the styles to ensure that we all
- 13:16succeed. So I like you said, I can't be
- 13:19intense like I used to because not everybody enjoys that and
- 13:23they, no, not everyone can perform well under that
- 13:26pressure. So he was like, OK, I kind of
- 13:28see that, but I kind of miss the intensity from back then.
- 13:31Just because we're not intense doesn't mean we don't have high
- 13:33standards. And I told him that and I had to
- 13:35learn that the hard way, right? I personally enjoy it because as
- 13:39an immigrant, you're forced to understand that you're going to
- 13:44be in, in uncomfortable environments, right?
- 13:46So whether it was going to a school that where you didn't
- 13:50speak in English, that was uncomfortable, right?
- 13:52Going to a job and not getting the job because of what, what
- 13:55you sounded like or how you look like, that was uncomfortable.
- 13:58Playing sports, right? You weren't always getting the
- 14:01opportunities to, to either start on a team because of your
- 14:03skin color. So those intensities were in my
- 14:07DNA very at a, at 9 years of age.
- 14:10So being in the kitchen and being told that you can't be
- 14:13promoted to a Swiss ship because you're Hispanic, that drove me,
- 14:17that that fueled me. I was ready to like.
- 14:19Yeah, I'll tell you, I, I don't think I've ever said this on the
- 14:22podcast. This is like one of my kitchen
- 14:26traumas, kitchen traumas, one of my first jobs.
- 14:31And for people that don't know I'm Hispanic, people don't know
- 14:33that. And I, I hate to say I was
- 14:35probably more Hispanic when I was younger because, you know, I
- 14:39was, I was, I was straight out the hood, right?
- 14:42I've, I've been a chef now. I've been in corporate
- 14:44environments like I've, I've toned down the the hood in me.
- 14:49But I remember one of my first jobs, I remember I was so pissed
- 14:53because I had just graduated from culinary school.
- 14:55I probably had about a year experience under my belt and I
- 14:58was working in this fine dining restaurant at the time and
- 15:03someone from the CIA had graduated and they were an
- 15:05intern. Susha loved to fuck with me and
- 15:09he'd come up to me and that's your new boss.
- 15:11I'm like, how's he my new boss? Like he's an intern, I've
- 15:14graduated even though I didn't go to CIA, but they're like, but
- 15:17he's CIA. And we would grind my gear so
- 15:20much. And back then, you know, 'cause
- 15:22you know, kitchens were different.
- 15:24You know, my nickname in the kitchen was a stupido, right?
- 15:26Or Feto which is like fetus for people that don't know.
- 15:29Yeah, yeah. So, so my nickname in the
- 15:31kitchen was Feto, 'cause I was young, so that that meant fetus
- 15:37or a stupido. So when I come into the kitchen
- 15:38they'd Hi everyone stupidos here, you know, they'd make a
- 15:41big deal. You know, it was whatever, but
- 15:44I, I'll never forget that my chef came up to me in a fucked
- 15:46up way because he knew that this kid coming in as an intern and
- 15:51he would say that's going to be your like he would constantly
- 15:53fuck with me. Like that's your new boss.
- 15:55And he came up to me and he says this is fucked up.
- 15:58This might trigger warning for some people.
- 16:00Comes up to me and says, you know what we call someone that
- 16:04speaks English in the kitchen, Andre and I said, what's that?
- 16:07He says we call them Chef. That's.
- 16:10And I was like, it was like one of those moments that I was
- 16:13like, I boiled over in anger. I wanted to kill the guy.
- 16:19I didn't understand. But there was also a part of me
- 16:22that understood that I was a guest in this environment that I
- 16:25wanted to succeed in. So I couldn't spill over in
- 16:27anger. But it was one of these
- 16:30emotional scars that has stayed with me forever.
- 16:32So I understand what you're talking.
- 16:33About yeah, I need that intensity drove me to the next
- 16:37job, so yeah. Wow, yeah, it's, it's it's
- 16:41tough. And I and I don't think, I
- 16:44don't, I don't know if people fully understand what a cook
- 16:48chef go through when they come into a kitchen that they, you
- 16:55know, they, they think they're walking into Disneyland because
- 16:57they're young and they're naive and they don't know what this
- 16:59is. And they watch some Food Network
- 17:01and they walk in and, and they walk in and they think I'm I'm
- 17:05right out of high school, I'm 18 years old, or I'm out of school
- 17:08and I'm 20 years old out of culinary school.
- 17:10And you walk into kitchen, you think everyone has that same
- 17:12mentality. And you realize the line cook
- 17:14next to you is 40. Right.
- 17:16They don't give a shit about you.
- 17:19They've, they've had, you know, 20 years of, of you'll figure it
- 17:23out. Yeah.
- 17:25And. But I, I enjoy those moments
- 17:26because I, when I was in those in those kitchens, I, I must
- 17:31have been like 1617. So I idolize the guys that were
- 17:36twice my age that were telling me, don't listen to a cookbook
- 17:43from Noma, right, because those ingredients don't, don't
- 17:47translate in Texas, understand Texas.
- 17:51So they definitely, even though they were tough and it was tough
- 17:54love and sometimes it sucked and opportunities went there.
- 17:57There are very moments, there are pockets of moments that
- 17:59you're like looking back now, because I'm now I'm their age
- 18:02and I look back, I'm like, wow, like that stuck with me
- 18:06throughout the years because if I would have not listened to
- 18:09that moment of like, don't do that, That's leave that to that,
- 18:12that side. Do do this because this is you,
- 18:15this is ours. It's it's our responsibility to
- 18:18take ownership of it and, and evolve it and move it forward
- 18:21and learn from it and then pass it on.
- 18:23I don't think I would have had the career that I have now for
- 18:26sure. How did it feel looking?
- 18:29Yeah. You're talking about your story,
- 18:31immigrant, struggling sometimes with your identity in your own
- 18:35skin. And then how did it feel to be
- 18:39called up on the stage to receive a Michelin star?
- 18:43You know, one of the few restaurants in Houston.
- 18:45So who else got a star in Houston?
- 18:46You March. Le Jardinian.
- 18:48Yeah, 33. Restaurants, Foster and I
- 18:52believe a BBQ spot, yeah. So.
- 18:55It's like 6 obesian. So how did I mean, like there's
- 18:59there's legacy in Houston, so many great chefs, Chris
- 19:02Sheppard, so many other greats that are that are there and
- 19:07people that have been doing it. And you're going to have some
- 19:12haters saying that, you know why you and not me?
- 19:17How did it feel when you were called on stage?
- 19:20First of all, did you think you were going to get a star?
- 19:21Oh. Man, I'm probably going to get
- 19:24roasted for this. They my whole idea was operate
- 19:30the restaurant at a once like we have a Michelin star before even
- 19:33their guide. That's since they won since
- 19:3520/21 was open the restaurant with the mentality of we're
- 19:39going to get a start. We need a star for in personal
- 19:42integrity, right? Take ownership, do it right, do
- 19:46right by the team, take your time.
- 19:48Taste, taste, taste right. Hospitality.
- 19:51That was my that that was a model of the restaurant.
- 19:54And that's something that was given to me at a very young age.
- 19:56And that's something that I to this day, it's like hospitality
- 19:59tastes now, maybe some things are out of place and order, but
- 20:03that's the, the root of it all. So I wasn't personally shocked
- 20:08when the guide was announced and my restaurant was already
- 20:12operating. At that's what you were aiming
- 20:13for. Not because I needed to start,
- 20:15but for personal integrity, right?
- 20:17So I feel like I had a head start before everyone else
- 20:21because when the guy was announced, now everyone wants to
- 20:23like tighten up and do tasty menus.
- 20:25It's been engraved and since I was 20 years old and me so to me
- 20:30wasn't strange. So I wasn't surprised by it, but
- 20:33it definitely felt a sense of calmness.
- 20:38Calmness before the storm for sure.
- 20:40I was calm because I was like, OK, I'm not too crazy.
- 20:43My format works. But then I was like, tomorrow
- 20:47when the repos and the Congrats and the text N and people come
- 20:52in comparing us to other institutions, not restaurants,
- 20:55institutions to other chefs, it's going to suck a little bit,
- 21:00but like everything in life, it's going to pass.
- 21:02How did so so put us, put us in that room.
- 21:07You're in Houston. They're they're calling people
- 21:10out. I mean, what are you, I'm, I'm
- 21:12sure you got a bespoke suit. You're dressed up.
- 21:15I was dressed down. You were dressed up.
- 21:17I was dressed down for sure. Just because you never know.
- 21:19You know, you, you got that, the invitation, you got the e-mail.
- 21:22You really don't know. Like you're second guessing and
- 21:24you're I'm, I remember just keeping keeping my nerves calm,
- 21:29saying hi to the people that I knew and just being present in
- 21:32the moment. My phone.
- 21:33I wasn't taking pictures, I wasn't on social media checking.
- 21:37I was legitimately just soaking up the moment for whatever way
- 21:40it went. If we didn't get a start, it was
- 21:41going to be motivation for us to get a start.
- 21:43If we did get a star, I was going to make sure that the team
- 21:47understood that that star doesn't make us better than
- 21:50anyone, but we have more responsibility than anyone to
- 21:55one maintain it and to to just show people what it what it
- 21:57means to like be fucking bad ass cooks, right That have a small
- 22:01restaurant with one blender with one three door cooler and we
- 22:06could be in the same conversation at this multi
- 22:08$1,000,000 restaurants, right? Well, because of the core values
- 22:12of integrity, hospitality, taste, taste, taste.
- 22:15From from a business standpoint, once you received the Michelin
- 22:18star, did you see a significant uptick in reservations and.
- 22:23For sure. We our restaurant caps at 32,
- 22:2832, nine courses. It's a lot.
- 22:30It's almost 2270 something plates of food from a little arc
- 22:34in my kitchen, smaller than this room.
- 22:36We don't have a dish machine. Everything has is washed by
- 22:38hands. Everything, everything.
- 22:39Plates. Everything, everything,
- 22:40everything. We don't have wine glasses,
- 22:42everything. Wow.
- 22:43We don't have an actual machine. The the gentleman, the two
- 22:47gentlemen. Shout out to your team that does
- 22:49dishes. The whole team does dishes.
- 22:51I do dishes. Everybody has to do dishes.
- 22:54We don't. So we don't have a dishwasher,
- 22:56right? We call it back court, kind of
- 22:58like a sports championship defense with championships,
- 23:02right? So if the back court's secure,
- 23:03we're going to have a great service, we're going to win
- 23:05championships because we're taking care of that area, not
- 23:09that person because it's everyone's responsible.
- 23:11I don't want the person that washes dishes, the 19 year old
- 23:14to be like I'm a dishwasher out of them all.
- 23:16He's a team member out of them. All right, His responsibility
- 23:19might be to Polish or wash that night, but if he calls off, it's
- 23:22going to be someone's responsibility because we don't
- 23:24have a machine. So it's once in one dream.
- 23:28Well, actual positions it's. It's about 300 plates a night.
- 23:32It's a it's a lot. It's.
- 23:34My math is right. It's, and that's not including
- 23:36the pots pans, right, the yakumi pans, everything that we utilize
- 23:40to prep, cook family meal. It's it's hard.
- 23:44Wow. So we have 24 team members.
- 23:47That's a. That's a lot of stat.
- 23:48For a 16 seater. That's a lot of cooks for a
- 23:51small kitchen, Yeah. So how do you how do you teach
- 23:54them to work efficiently in a tight space?
- 23:56You have like certain things that are like rules in the
- 23:59kitchen, like for a new cook coming in, then hey, there's a
- 24:01tight space. This is how you work.
- 24:03We actually how I like to to handle it as someone comes in,
- 24:07it's more like a trial. They know that I don't get
- 24:10involved as much with with the fresh, not fresh meat, but the
- 24:15fresh meat one because they're they're what's well.
- 24:19But with my sous chef, with my lead cook, with the guys, I've
- 24:23been there for the longest. So if I put in, it's going to
- 24:26create, it's going to not it's going to unbalance the scale.
- 24:29So my job now, and this is something that I want to talk
- 24:32about my transition. How do I transition?
- 24:35I teach the people that have been with me the longest how I
- 24:39like things, whether it's the label cut, the salt, the oils,
- 24:43which bought bottles, the towels, they know me right now.
- 24:46They're like a representation of of me.
- 24:48If I'm not there, everything should be in its place and they
- 24:52know it. I come in and I'm like, that's
- 24:53not that doesn't go there. So they're responsible for
- 24:58teaching the new guys things like that.
- 25:00I'll jump in from time to time. I mean, give advice on, hey, I
- 25:04saw you doing this. Let me show you how I do it.
- 25:07If it works for you, great. If it doesn't, let's keep
- 25:09figuring out what works for best.
- 25:11But at the end of the day, you need to show whoever's next to
- 25:14you the same respect you're showing me because I'm not here
- 25:17during the prep, right? My job is more about ensuring
- 25:21that we have seats and people are still coming in and the
- 25:24lights, the doors on. We don't have water.
- 25:26How, how, how much business training and education did you
- 25:31have before you opened the restaurant?
- 25:34Training opening restaurants. I've opened hotels, so I've come
- 25:37from structure and I worked in country clubs, so I understand
- 25:40volume, I understand prep sheets, I understand food costs
- 25:43and all that. Training, opening the restaurant
- 25:47was probably, it's my first one, solely Megan, my business
- 25:54partner, but like solely, solely fully responsible for
- 25:56everything. My first one and I had no idea
- 25:59what I was doing so it was hard. So I'm assuming the best
- 26:03Business School you could attend is the school of doing it.
- 26:06For sure. Figuring it out for sure.
- 26:08But I grew up in an industry like I've been inside a
- 26:11restaurant since I was 10/11. My parents both work in
- 26:13restaurants so today they work in restaurants.
- 26:15So I understood the insurance and outs and and the back end of
- 26:20things. I also like I said, I'm not
- 26:22selfish or I understood that there's I don't know everything
- 26:27so I like to hire people that are better than me.
- 26:29I don't she doesn't like to hire good.
- 26:32They like they want to hire good cooks, but they don't want to
- 26:34admit or hire people that are better than them.
- 26:37I hire people that are better than me.
- 26:40For for chefs that don't understand that, which I think
- 26:42is super important, I'm I'm I'm a firm believer of what you are.
- 26:45I want to surround myself with people that know things that I
- 26:47don't know. I'll teach you what I know, but
- 26:49I want you to know things that I don't know exactly learn from
- 26:51you as well, because when you're in a position of chef, sometimes
- 26:54you can't go out and stodge and work in all these other
- 26:56restaurants anymore. You're learning is now didactic
- 26:59self self. It's self driven.
- 27:01So when you hire people, you're, you're hoping that they're
- 27:04better than you. And from an example of like
- 27:06Chef's like, no, no, I want to be the best one in the kitchen.
- 27:08I'll give you a podcast example. I edit the podcast, right?
- 27:11If I was going to hire someone to edit my podcast, but I want
- 27:14me to be better than them. No, I'd want to hire an editor
- 27:17that's better than me to, to make the podcast look better,
- 27:20look sharper, you know, have more graphics or whatever.
- 27:24Like why would I hire someone that's not as good as me or, or
- 27:28why would I be intimidated that they're better?
- 27:30It lifts everything else up in the kitchen.
- 27:32It doesn't mean that they are going to take my job.
- 27:34It doesn't mean that that they're going to outside me.
- 27:39It's like, no, no, it's your restaurant, right?
- 27:42Why, like you own? It exactly though it doesn't
- 27:44make sense. I think that's the key to
- 27:46success, right? Hire the people that are better
- 27:48than you at the job because you have to evolve.
- 27:50You know, I'm 30, I turned 37 this year.
- 27:53My body's slowly telling me the 17 hour days are no longer and
- 27:58durable like. It really kicked in for me at
- 28:00like 39. Yeah.
- 28:02At 39, I felt. It's a hard it's it's such a
- 28:05brutal industry. Doesn't matter if it's tasty
- 28:07menu or 120 seater. It's mentally, emotionally and
- 28:12definitely physically toxic relationship.
- 28:16Yeah, it's love, hate, right? Yeah, I love it and I hit it.
- 28:19What, what were some of the, the things that like some of the
- 28:22biggest lessons that you learned when opening the restaurant that
- 28:26you could advise someone like, hey, you're going to go down
- 28:27this journey. Don't do this or make sure you
- 28:30do this. From a financial standpoint is
- 28:34understand the needs and wants. Everyone wants to have a fancy
- 28:38well equipped kitchen or restaurant, but do you really
- 28:42need one? I think that that would be the
- 28:44first one. I'll give you an example.
- 28:46I spent 10K replacing the floor in the dining room, what we call
- 28:50the dining room. Those 10K could have, I could
- 28:53have used for something else more probably more equipment or
- 28:56better, I don't know, something else in the beginning besides
- 28:58the floor. In my mind, I wanted the floor
- 29:01to be. But I have an ambition, right?
- 29:04I wish somebody and because we don't have financial backing, I
- 29:08wish somebody would have said no, right?
- 29:11Think it's a lot to spend on floors, floors.
- 29:13And four years later I, I contemplated I don't own the
- 29:17building. I don't own that floor.
- 29:19I gave 10K to a future tenant and I it eats me alive everyday.
- 29:25Every time I walk in I'm like God damn it.
- 29:28So that's one right? Understand that unless you own
- 29:33the building, the property, the whole thing, it's not yours.
- 29:36Don't, don't invest the second one we.
- 29:41You know how to cook. That's not the problem.
- 29:43The problem is getting your team to do what you want when you
- 29:46want it. That's leadership.
- 29:48My book, Culinary Leadership Fundamentals, breaks down
- 29:50exactly how to run a kitchen without losing your mind.
- 29:52Stop yelling. Start leading.
- 29:54Get the book at Chefs psa.com. Understand the the team
- 29:58camaraderie, right? Understand how they basically,
- 30:05sometimes they we don't know how the same schooling of Hard
- 30:11Knocks, right? If someone yells at me, I'm
- 30:14going to thrive because I love it.
- 30:15If I get a bad A1 review and I've we've gotten many one
- 30:18reviews, I thrive. I come back the next morning and
- 30:21next, you know, it's a new menu completely or we bat another
- 30:24course because I like things like that.
- 30:26That's someone telling me that I suck and I love it.
- 30:30But not everybody, not everybody works that way.
- 30:32So sometimes you have to have a lot of one on ones.
- 30:35Sometimes you have to have make room on your schedule to have
- 30:37team meetings and you don't always have to speak.
- 30:40Let them speak. You just got to listen.
- 30:42I think the best lesson is to hear them out right?
- 30:47Like maybe they're not happy, maybe they want to learn
- 30:49something else, but they're too afraid to or you're too busy for
- 30:52them to like grab your attention and they're they're timid and
- 30:55next, you know, like, oh, check, here's my two weeks.
- 30:56Oh, because you spent 20 minutes listening to to their needs and
- 31:00wants. So I think those are the 2.
- 31:03Is there anything that in in the restaurant right now that that
- 31:07you if you could go back and do it all over again besides the
- 31:11floor if you were starting another restaurant, so version 2
- 31:14point O, what would be some of the things that you would start
- 31:17out immediately and say, OK, we're going to make sure we do
- 31:19this completely different if you had carte blanche.
- 31:22It's funny you said that because we're working on something like
- 31:24that right now. Can you announce it here?
- 31:25No. No, no, not yet.
- 31:27Not yet. Yeah, but don't give it to
- 31:29Eater. No, I'm not going to give it to
- 31:30Eater. That's a great question.
- 31:37Definitely would think that investing in more refrigeration.
- 31:41It's never have enough, right? You can never have enough
- 31:43refrigeration. I didn't think I in my mind 3A3
- 31:48door cooler, like yeah, I'll make it happen.
- 31:49And as the team evolves, the restroom evolves, the there's
- 31:53more needs. There's not enough space to like
- 31:56store things. So I think just more
- 31:58refrigeration. Your, your menu is, is is
- 32:01interesting and your style of food is interesting because
- 32:04what's unique to Texas? I would say, obviously it's not
- 32:06unique to the world, but it's unique, I would say to Texas,
- 32:10especially receiving a Michelin star and then doing tasty menu.
- 32:14There's not a lot of restaurants in Texas that do this style of
- 32:16cuisine and tasty menu. You know yourself initially, I'm
- 32:20trying to think, who else tasting menu, It's probably just
- 32:25you too, right? Shout out to the guys that
- 32:28initially. But the reason, the reason I
- 32:29asked that is when it comes to the creative process, when you
- 32:33were starting to go down the tasting menu route and develop
- 32:38your own voice and your own style of cooking, where were you
- 32:41drawing inspiration from? And then was there ever a
- 32:44certain point where that inspiration stopped becoming
- 32:47inspiring, and then that inspiration was just coming from
- 32:51just only a year? So I'm going to touch into
- 32:54things trying to answer the question.
- 32:57The only reason we did Tasting Menu is because of our location.
- 33:00So we're outside of the city. We're like 10 minutes away from
- 33:04the city in a street mall that's basically three businesses in a
- 33:08street mall, a donut shop that's only open from 6:00 to 2:00, and
- 33:12then a church next to us. Everything.
- 33:14I think it's an office, like a works office next to us or next
- 33:17to the donut shop that operates from like 9:00 to 5:00.
- 33:21There's not a lot of like walk in traffic, so there was no
- 33:24inhale. I was going to survive opening
- 33:27an Ala carte menu there. It wasn't going to happen.
- 33:31The only reason brunch was successful is because instead of
- 33:34us doing pop ups going to markets, we said come to us,
- 33:39right? We also didn't have a big
- 33:40overhead. We had like 2, two team members
- 33:43at the time. So we're basically there all day
- 33:46by ourselves. I was washing dishes, prepping.
- 33:48I was doing the whole thing for like a year by myself.
- 33:51So I was able to save a lot of money that way.
- 33:56The Tasty menu was basically forced on us.
- 33:58Like you not going to the only way to survive is if you it's
- 34:02prepaid secure people's money and then you basically force
- 34:05them to go visit you, right. Otherwise it wouldn't work.
- 34:09From the Tasty menu, their creative side was to in the
- 34:12beginning was all vegetables. It was a vegetable forward
- 34:14tasting menu and people hated it in Texas.
- 34:17Yeah, but my food calls a lot of time super low time, right?
- 34:21My main, my what? Made you want to do vegetable
- 34:24tasting menu. Labor, you know, I realized that
- 34:28I need to start not with my ego, but being smart, you know, and I
- 34:32couldn't just new restaurant A5. It was not going to work.
- 34:37You know, you have to like slowly build momentum, make sure
- 34:41that I get the money back that I spent on the flooring and things
- 34:44like that. It's my own money.
- 34:45So every cent counts. You like when it's money that
- 34:47people give you blow it, not really keeping track of it,
- 34:51sure, but when it's yours, yours, like from years of like
- 34:54savings, every penny counts. Someone grabs an extra tile and
- 34:58you're like, Oh my God, stop. Like stop being so messy, so
- 35:04vegetable, tasty menu. Our main course was a smoked
- 35:07sweet potato Taco. That was our main course.
- 35:11All right, so some people loved it, some people hate it, but I
- 35:14didn't care. It was an illegal thing.
- 35:15It was a survival thing. Once, like I said, all the
- 35:19accolades started coming in, more people started coming into
- 35:22the restaurant, Then we're able to kind of shift and that's
- 35:24where the inspiration started coming in because I had more
- 35:27people with more pedigrees different.
- 35:30Coming to work. For you for sure resumes and I'm
- 35:33like, OK, what do you want to do?
- 35:35Like what's in your mind? What's in your palette?
- 35:37And then we start buying something on IDs and then this
- 35:39kind of shifts and then I feel like people take ownership.
- 35:41It's not, it's not my menu even now.
- 35:43The menu that we have now, I think the only thing that's
- 35:45hasn't changed is quesadilla since day one.
- 35:49And that's something that like maybe just reminds me of home.
- 35:52Everything else has kind of changed from ideas bouncing by
- 35:54talking to the team so. So you have a very collaborative
- 35:57menu. When it's 700 square feet, you
- 35:59have to collaborate with people because you also have to be
- 36:02mindful that if I want to do something and they can't execute
- 36:05it, it's not going to be. How do you how do you determine
- 36:08when a when a menu item is not a good fit for the menu?
- 36:12When? From your team, not not from
- 36:14your ideas, but let's just say it, a team member, sous chef or
- 36:17or cook is coming to and say, hey, what do you think of this
- 36:19as they're presenting it to you? How do you determine if it's?
- 36:21It's just that's not going to work.
- 36:23It has to go to the three stages, first stage sourcing,
- 36:26second stage story because again, sourcing something for I
- 36:30don't know, 100 people a week, It's not easy, especially
- 36:33proteins, right? Not a lot of people want to make
- 36:35that drive to like or make that commitment to you.
- 36:38Let me rephrase that. After the star that hold that
- 36:41change, but before the start, it was like you need to get at
- 36:45least half a case of something and I can't just break the case
- 36:48because you need 11 item storing when we have a three door
- 36:52cooler. So it has to make sense with our
- 36:54storing. And the final one, would we call
- 36:57them sequences has to make sense with it the sequence.
- 37:00So for us, a sequence is because it's such a tight space, you can
- 37:05just move kind of like scramble. We have a procedure of like when
- 37:11guest comes in, the kitchen's already understanding the
- 37:14movements. It's like a valet.
- 37:16It's very organized and you can tell when you're done with us
- 37:18and you sit at the counter that we're having a bad service
- 37:21because it's very chaotic. People are not synchronized.
- 37:24We're synchronized. I can honestly say, and I've
- 37:27been at at least like 82 stars. We had a two star level.
- 37:31When we are synchronized, it's not often, but I can, I can see
- 37:35it, I can smell it, I can see it.
- 37:37I don't hear it when I don't hear anything like not one pot
- 37:40being like put down overly hard because you're scrambling to
- 37:46grab something else. I know we have a two star
- 37:48service on the front of the house.
- 37:50Team members are coming in and like sorry, doing swiney like
- 37:56sequences of like the silverware, cleaning it up.
- 37:59They're having fun and they're having fun.
- 38:02I'm having fun and that's when we're like, OK, if all those
- 38:07three things click the dishes perhaps for.
- 38:09The menu you said something that I haven't really thought about
- 38:12in quite some time because I haven't been in a kitchen in a
- 38:13while, but like the the noise of the pot on the on the on the
- 38:17stainless. I hate it.
- 38:18I I every kitchen where I go like should have trivets.
- 38:22Nothing hot goes on. Nothing hot goes on the counter.
- 38:24Have a trivet like. No, we haven't.
- 38:26Yeah, we have them, yeah. Something but if you if you
- 38:28don't have a towel, if you don't have a trivet, use a towel or
- 38:30whatever. Because I hate the when when
- 38:33you're in the flow, nothing drives me crazier than banging
- 38:35pots and slamming, slamming ice machines or doors.
- 38:39That would drive me crazy. But I haven't thought about that
- 38:42in quite some time. But yeah, you know, you're in
- 38:45this flow state when everything is like like this ballet and
- 38:49everything just going it's clicking.
- 38:51So when it comes to tasting menus, because I have a lot of
- 38:55thoughts on tasting menus, I don't want to get into them, but
- 38:58when it comes to tasting menus and you're structuring it
- 39:01because you're doing Mexican style food, what like a
- 39:08traditional tasting menu is going to start, you know, maybe
- 39:10some, some bites are used at the beginning.
- 39:11And then you might go into a raw fish dish and you're going to
- 39:15progress in, in, in intensity and flavor and and spice.
- 39:20You're ramping up because you don't want to kill the palate
- 39:21early on. Then you're going to have
- 39:23usually a cold seafood, a hot seafood, you know, meat #1 meat
- 39:29#2 desserts, dessert, one dessert, 2 ER DS at the end.
- 39:36And I'm probably forgetting a couple of things in here as I'm,
- 39:39you know, going off the top of my head structure in a tasting
- 39:40menu, depending on how many courses.
- 39:42But for you, what is the, the format like?
- 39:45What's the playbook for a tasty menu in your restaurant for your
- 39:49style? Like you said, it has to start
- 39:51cold, it has to have balances of acid and spice.
- 39:56Right at the beginning. Yeah, it's Mexican food, right?
- 39:58So we get to play with those things.
- 40:00You go to a taqueria and you're like, oh, can I get a fish Taco?
- 40:03No, it's like, can I get a Taco? And then you're going to citrus.
- 40:07That's in my mind. It's a form of acid because it
- 40:10just salivates your mouth. Not from spice level, but it
- 40:13just salivates your mouth. And you have satsas, right?
- 40:16You don't really think about it. And it's also greasy and messy.
- 40:19So we have a little bit of luxury to be like, eat it with
- 40:23your hands. Right.
- 40:24And then people will complain like, oh, it's a, it's a tasty
- 40:27menu. It shouldn't be.
- 40:28When you go eat nigeries, you eat it with your hands. 9 out of
- 40:3210, you're going to eat it with your hands, right?
- 40:34So we have the luxury to, yeah, be a Mexican tasty menu.
- 40:38So we get to play with bold flavors.
- 40:41We're also in Texas. So people we have, we have to
- 40:44listen to what people want. People want bold flavors, right?
- 40:47They want heavy items, even if it's small, small pieces of it.
- 40:52They want that, OK, I'm getting my money, my values, my values
- 40:55worth. And then the other one is like,
- 40:57I like to compare it a lot with Japanese cuisine.
- 40:59And I know a lot of shows do do it, but for me it's more about
- 41:02the mentality or like educating the guest.
- 41:05When you go to a kind of sushi counter, you get a negative
- 41:08piece for 19 bucks, right? You don't ask for another one,
- 41:12you're going to pay for another one.
- 41:14That's kind of the same thing with tasty menu, especially in
- 41:16Texas, right? People are not educated enough
- 41:18because we don't have enough. So they're hit and miss.
- 41:22People are going to come in and be like, I don't know what I'm
- 41:24getting myself into, but I'm excited.
- 41:26And they either hate it or love it.
- 41:28And then you have the the other half that's going to come in and
- 41:32they're going to start critiquing it and like, oh, it's
- 41:34not like, oh, it's not like, oh, it's not like such such in San
- 41:37Francisco or New York. I'm like, no shit.
- 41:40Those are institutions. 20 years plus.
- 41:42We're going on five years. Look around, look around, right?
- 41:45It's a small restaurant. Was it good?
- 41:49Yeah, it was good. But it's it doesn't stand up to
- 41:51to those other establishments. You don't have a wine list and
- 41:54and whatnot and all that's fair. And then you have like the
- 41:58people that has kept have kept us alive that come in and don't
- 42:01know tasty menus and don't know all the restaurants, but they
- 42:04enjoy what we're doing. And to them is unique.
- 42:07It's fresh, it's new and it's modern.
- 42:09And then you get it and they fucking love it.
- 42:11And they keep coming back and they tell their friends and they
- 42:13post and next you know that we're doing events.
- 42:16And I feel like all all those 3 genres are are fair game, right?
- 42:23So, so going back to your, yours is 9 course correct, Correct.
- 42:27So what, what is what? How do you start out?
- 42:28What's courses like? What are?
- 42:30What are the 9? Course one's going to be a
- 42:32tostada. Is it always a tostada?
- 42:35No, it's been a ceviche in the past, so it's small bite.
- 42:39It's a small bite. It's like 30 grams of 15 grams
- 42:41of seafood and like 30 grams of masa.
- 42:43So it's pretty nice started it's very delicate nice.
- 42:47We've spent a lot of lot of time doing them.
- 42:49That's going to be the first course.
- 42:51Then you have a a tracoyo sope, which is something more heavy
- 42:54with beans, raises cheese. Then you have a quesadilla
- 42:58that's fried and then you have a vegetable course.
- 43:01We're now it's a chili tole with coconut froth and masa vigne.
- 43:05That's all vegetables. So it's a little more starts to
- 43:08like tone down a little bit and then you have the right now and
- 43:11then Molada with duck two ways, which is your first protein and
- 43:16then you will go straight to. The what are the two ways on
- 43:18the? Duck.
- 43:18Right now we do a carnita style that's kind of like roulade, and
- 43:21then we season that with green olives and a lot of citrus.
- 43:25It sounds scary. It's.
- 43:26Yeah, delicious. It's really, really like you eat
- 43:29it and you can't stop. This.
- 43:30I'm hungry by the way. Like it's lunch time as your
- 43:32tongue. Since then, I just roll into
- 43:33town. I'm like ready to go to eat.
- 43:34Shout out to Nix that because we're coming through right now.
- 43:37And then we do the breast itself that gets cooked down with a
- 43:41satire spice 'cause we're featuring a mole from Cueva and
- 43:44there's a lot of Lebanese population in Puebla, so we're
- 43:47allowed to you to tell those stories through this dish.
- 43:50And then that gets a little bit of a roasted pineapple juice
- 43:54that gets seasoned with Mexican egg.
- 43:56So we call it Mexican Exo, which is like Chicatanas, anything
- 43:59that's dry basically. People don't know what are
- 44:01chikatanas. Chikatanas are wahakan ants
- 44:04rather. They're short, which are
- 44:05delicious. They're salt crunching and high
- 44:07nutrient and amazing. And the flavor of those ants for
- 44:11people that have never had them because you think, oh, I'm not
- 44:14eating ants. Like trust me, it's like a
- 44:15flavor you've never had. It's so worth it.
- 44:17Yeah, right. So worth it.
- 44:18So we use all the dragon umami things that we can utilize and
- 44:22make our own cheese. That you get that ions to make
- 44:24the Mexican exo, yeah, that's that's a good idea, yeah.
- 44:27Yeah, so same thing, right? Umami has to be rich.
- 44:30Anybody also has to make sense. So we you can be inspired, but
- 44:34we have to utilize our ingredients.
- 44:36And then that you get just brushed on the duck and it's
- 44:38like sweet, spicy, tangy. And you're like, it's like
- 44:41getting like a perfect student sour chicken.
- 44:44Yeah, but you don't know why. And you're like, oh, shit.
- 44:46And then when the team members feels the oh, we make a
- 44:49Chicatana with others and people are like, it's just like sweet
- 44:52and sour chicken. But I'm OK with that.
- 44:53You know, not everything has to be avant-garde or I'm not.
- 44:57No one's going to reinvent the wheel.
- 44:59I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel.
- 45:00I'm just trying to make things that are delicious make sense.
- 45:02Yeah. And get people paid.
- 45:04Right. Yeah.
- 45:05And then you have a carne asada utilizing A5 and that's the
- 45:10tortilla course when we talk about a little bit about the
- 45:13history of the of the restaurant.
- 45:14And then we go to our Bay Post today.
- 45:17We're about to add another post today.
- 45:18And then the mayor, Dees. To go, Yeah.
- 45:21To go. No, we have them there.
- 45:23Oh, OK, OK. Yeah, I need to.
- 45:24I haven't. I haven't.
- 45:25No, please. I need to come.
- 45:28I don't. I don't get down to Houston
- 45:29enough. But I have a reason now.
- 45:31I mean, I have a lot of reasons, but I want to.
- 45:34I'm hungry, like you're talking. I was like, I want to eat this
- 45:36right now. What is what is exciting you
- 45:41right now in culinary doesn't necessarily have to be your
- 45:44restaurant like what are you looking at right now to get
- 45:46inspiration that out there in the in the world that is and I
- 45:50really like because they're doing.
- 45:52Over here, I'm going to use you as an example.
- 45:57I love how the generation that I saw from afar and I, I call them
- 46:02the old hits and, and, and I'm sure you have it because I've
- 46:05seen it. I've seen you wear it.
- 46:07When I started cooking, you had two aprons.
- 46:10You had the black one with The White Stripes, and then you had
- 46:13the blue one with the thin color.
- 46:15If you had the blue one, you're your friend.
- 46:18You're Thomas Keller in my book, right?
- 46:19Because not a lot of cooks had the blue ones.
- 46:21That means that you worked in some kitchens that were.
- 46:23Like the blue Brigard. Yeah, yeah.
- 46:25And by the way, that blue Brigard, for people that don't
- 46:27know, there's two of them. The people that know, know.
- 46:30There's the one with the pocket in the front.
- 46:32I never seen those. That one's not as good.
- 46:34You got to get the one without the pocket.
- 46:37I work with people who have the blue ones, so I've always wanted
- 46:40a blue one, but I never that was before my time, right?
- 46:42So I that's how I difference. Like, OK, you've been in some
- 46:46kitchens, like, you know, shit, the blue apron a little bit
- 46:49before the tweezers booming, right, The transition that you
- 46:55guys are making, right? Like it's like sports, like you
- 46:59play it at the high level for so long.
- 47:01Something else has What's the plan after within the space?
- 47:06How do you continue to evolve in this space?
- 47:08You don't have to, because you can't beat Father Time, right?
- 47:11It's no, you can't. And it's funny that you're,
- 47:15you're saying this because I, I think for people that don't
- 47:19know, and I'll say this, my opinions about food today are
- 47:23not the same opinions I had five years ago.
- 47:25They should. And the way I would cook today.
- 47:28I want to ask you this because I'll, I'll tell you what I'm
- 47:30thinking and then I'm going to ask you your opinion on this.
- 47:33What excites me about food today is not what excited me five
- 47:36years ago. And the way I would run a
- 47:38Business Today is not the same way I would do it five years
- 47:40ago. And I've written books on
- 47:41leadership and the way I lead a kitchen is not even necessarily
- 47:45today 100% the way I wrote in my leadership books because I, I
- 47:49evolved. And I think, you know, the chef
- 47:51that I was when I was 28 or 38 or 35 or, or, or 40 is not who I
- 47:57am today. And I've, I've learned a lot
- 47:59from it. And the reason I bring this up
- 48:04is because when you're in the game, sometimes it's you're in
- 48:07the game, but when you pull back from the game, you see the game
- 48:10from from different angles. From a business standpoint, you
- 48:14see it from a, from a human resources standpoint, you see it
- 48:17from why was I so mad about that standpoint?
- 48:19Like why did I get so mad they fucked up the chives that day?
- 48:22Like why did I like, does it really matter?
- 48:24Did anyone notice besides me? So a lot of things start to make
- 48:28sense. And so my question for you based
- 48:31on my little rant here is when because you open as a brunch
- 48:37restaurant and the food that you're doing now, now put aside
- 48:41the business and like not, not from a business standpoint and
- 48:46not from a creativity standpoint either.
- 48:48Because I understand that doing the tasty menu, you're going to
- 48:50be able to come up with more creative things.
- 48:53But just from a joy of cooking standpoint, like you enjoy
- 48:57cooking, Which one brings you more joy Cooking like brunch
- 49:03food. I'm just using brunch food as
- 49:05the example. Or cooking high end.
- 49:07Like when you're in the kitchen and you're cooking for the pure
- 49:09love of cooking for you and people that you love, How do you
- 49:12cook? How I cook.
- 49:15OK, I love both. Yeah, I adore both.
- 49:18They both can coexist because at the same time, it doesn't have
- 49:22to look pretty, but same ingredients and same attention
- 49:25to detail and the same respect for it, right?
- 49:27So it's a craft, right? I don't expect you can't expect
- 49:31me to go home and and give the intensity just shooting hoops
- 49:35with my friends at the YMCA as you would do at Game 7 on the
- 49:39finals, right? Sure, that's but you love the
- 49:42game of basketball, right? Because you, you out there,
- 49:43clearly you out there because you love it.
- 49:45And like I said earlier, the individuals that love brunch
- 49:49respected and understand it and they thrive in that environment
- 49:52because they know it's not about them are going to go far because
- 49:57it's not brunch is not about you.
- 49:59It's not what you want. It's what people want to eat.
- 50:02Right. And then the other one, yeah,
- 50:05like that's what you're getting ready for.
- 50:06Like 1 could be practice a warm up.
- 50:09The other one's like the end game, but you have to love both.
- 50:12There's not different highs, right?
- 50:13Yeah, different intensities, different mentalities, but the
- 50:16love for the game is the same. I'll give you a great example.
- 50:19Yeah, that's a by the way, that's a good example because
- 50:21you you could say the winning of Game 7 is amazing, but playing
- 50:27with your best friends is also a once in a lifetime.
- 50:29It's the it's one of the best. They're both amazing.
- 50:31Yeah, you can find you in both of them and I will give you a
- 50:33great example. I have a, a young lady right now
- 50:35on our team, super talented, extremely talented, and she's
- 50:39always like, she's been with us almost two years.
- 50:40She's like, chef, let me pick your brain, like I want to open
- 50:44my own thing. And she's all over the place.
- 50:45And she's probably the best person on on our beaches on that
- 50:49I've ever had because she they're spot on.
- 50:51Like she's very posed and things and she's on the older side and
- 50:56she's like, I think I'm ready. I think I'm ready.
- 50:57And I and every time we get somebody in the in the dining
- 51:01room asking for a well done A5, whatever it is well done, she
- 51:04makes this, can't believe it. And like it's like the worst
- 51:09thing for her. And I'm like, I don't want to
- 51:11call her by name. I'm like, hey, at some point
- 51:16when it's your place, you'll understand like it is OK, that
- 51:19person was well done, right? It's not about you.
- 51:23It's never going to be about you, the woman.
- 51:25You realize that and you make peace with that.
- 51:28You're ready. Until then, you're not ready to
- 51:30open a restaurant because it's not about you.
- 51:32Yeah, yeah, I, I mean, it's, it's a, it's a hard lesson to
- 51:36learn when the guest comes in and, you know, they want that
- 51:39well done steak or, you know, they they can I get, you know,
- 51:42can I get a sliced chicken breast on top of the.
- 51:43Pasta, whatever you want, as long as you enjoy your night
- 51:46with. Us.
- 51:47Yeah. Who might it tell you what what
- 51:48you you should like? Obviously within our.
- 51:51It's not the main. Right.
- 51:52Yeah, within our reach. Like don't come in and ask for
- 51:54something that we don't have or can't provide.
- 51:57We're, you know, there's a lot of talk right now and kitchens
- 52:02online, whatever the industry is, a lot of people think the
- 52:06industry is broken. I don't necessarily think so.
- 52:08I just think we complain, yeah, a lot about things that don't
- 52:12really affect us. It's fun to smoke a cigarette
- 52:15outside and complain about the world.
- 52:17You know, it's like it's not really affecting what we're
- 52:19doing day-to-day. But with that being said, is
- 52:23there, when you look at the culinary industry right now and
- 52:29the direction that it's going, is there anything that excites
- 52:32you and is there anything that frightens you as we move
- 52:34forward? I think definitely the, what
- 52:37excites me is the accessibility to knowledge that it's a lot
- 52:43easier to open things up and, and learn from things without
- 52:46having to travel. But that also frightens me a
- 52:48little bit because you take that emotion and that human
- 52:52connection and experience. So that's a little scary to
- 52:54think about to be able to say, and I use myself as an example.
- 52:59I haven't gone to I don't go to Mexico as much as people think
- 53:01or want me to go just because I'm Mexican and I have a Mexican
- 53:04taste in many restaurant. People are constantly like, oh,
- 53:06have you been here? Like I didn't have the needs to
- 53:08travel when I was younger. I didn't have the papers to
- 53:10travel. So and I was able to do
- 53:14something without traveling as much, right, memory and things
- 53:20of that nature. But nowadays people cannot
- 53:23travel at all and, and say that, Hey, this is Asian inspired, but
- 53:27I've never been to Asia. So that frightens me a little
- 53:29bit because I feel like monkey see, monkey do.
- 53:33It's just going to replicate, right.
- 53:34And then next thing you know, like we're not going to take the
- 53:37time to to understand the craft and the ingredients and the
- 53:40culture. Also, what frightens me is how
- 53:46and the amount of people that have opinions on our industry
- 53:50that never worked on the industry can be a little bit
- 53:56scary as an owner, right? A critic can come in and be
- 54:00like, this is the best restaurant without or the worst
- 54:04restaurant. Let's just say the worst for the
- 54:06sake of the conversation, without ever, ever understanding
- 54:09what a bad day is or a bad week or someone walking off or
- 54:12someone stealing or someone being sick or something not
- 54:14coming in on time, right? But because I have a platform
- 54:18and and and a pedigree, it's just kind of just the struggle
- 54:23shakes things up, can be scary, yeah.
- 54:26I agree with you and I think it's a it's a slippery slope
- 54:29when I see content creators or influencers out there that their
- 54:32sole objective is to hurt people.
- 54:34Yeah, I can't respect that at all.
- 54:36For people that don't know, I have a rule on the podcast, it's
- 54:40I don't do gossip. I don't, I don't talk badly
- 54:43about other chefs and I don't allow people to come on my show
- 54:45and use it as a platform to to speak badly about other chefs
- 54:49because I feel like that doesn't provide any solutions.
- 54:54And we need to be solutions based, solutions oriented and
- 54:57and working on what's going to improve this industry, what's
- 55:01going to help you become a better chef or help you become a
- 55:03better cook. And anyone that I think goes
- 55:07into an operation and celebrates someone else's demise, I've had
- 55:12the opportunity to be on both ends.
- 55:13I've had the opportunity to be successful and I've had the
- 55:15opportunity to be a complete failure and and you know, hit
- 55:18rock bottom. I've been on both.
- 55:20And what's amazing is when you are on rock bottom, everyone
- 55:25loves to kick you when you're down.
- 55:27And I and I and I, and then when you come back up, everyone loves
- 55:30to be your friend again. And it's like, why are we like
- 55:33that as human beings? Like, what do you think is the
- 55:37the greater good to stone them in the in the public square
- 55:43while they're, you know, while their life is crumbling so you
- 55:45can feel better about yourself or to step up and say, hey, you
- 55:49know, what are you doing? All right, can I help you out?
- 55:52Can I help? Can I help lift you up from this
- 55:53rock bottom? But unfortunately people say no,
- 55:56no, stone them in the public square.
- 55:57Like you said, I think it's just a mentality that we have.
- 56:00You see monkey? Do yeah, it's a lot easier to to
- 56:02knock someone out than to help someone up, yeah.
- 56:06Yeah, yeah. And, and I think that's mostly
- 56:08because people just want to feel better about themselves and
- 56:09their situation. I yeah, I mean, I've never been
- 56:12one to gravitate toward towards someone.
- 56:17It's not that I don't care about people.
- 56:19Obviously I care. But I, I have boundaries within
- 56:22myself, right? I have 20 something individuals
- 56:26that require my full attention, not including my friends and
- 56:30family. So I need to make sure that I
- 56:31take care of take care of mine. And then that's basically where
- 56:35I stand. Like, I can't, I can't Knee can
- 56:37pick about other places, other restaurants, because mine's not
- 56:40perfect. No, no, and and no one is and
- 56:42everyone everyone has skeletons in their closet and things that
- 56:46they wish they could do over and you know, I have AI would say to
- 56:50people have a little compassion, like one day you might be the
- 56:54one that. For sure you will be.
- 56:55It's a circle life. Yeah, eventually they'll will be
- 56:58knocking on your door too, right.
- 57:01Difficulty eventually comes for everybody in life.
- 57:03Anyway that I'll I'll leave it at that, but I want to ask you a
- 57:06couple of wrap up questions as as we come to a close in your
- 57:10kitchen, what is the salt? What is the the salt standard
- 57:14for all-purpose? Not not finishing SO, but just
- 57:16for all-purpose cooking? The kosher one, the Diamond 1
- 57:19Diamond. Crispy, yeah.
- 57:21And then what do you use for finishing?
- 57:24Right now we're playing with a few salts.
- 57:25There's some from Colima, they're coming in from Mexico.
- 57:27They're really, really like high end, but I don't feel like the
- 57:31Houston palace ready for them. They're a little too coarse.
- 57:34OK. It's like almost, it's almost
- 57:35like sea borderline. It's sea salt, sea salt.
- 57:37But you know, when sea salt hates you for the first time and
- 57:40you were like, this is unedible. Yeah, yeah.
- 57:42Kind of like that. So I think we're going to just
- 57:44kind of creep it into people here and there.
- 57:47And do you have a a finishing acid go to that you typically
- 57:51use? Yes.
- 57:52Key Lime, Key Lime, Key Lime. It's the.
- 57:54Little, the little. One yeah, it's I just it's funny
- 57:57because we are so used to lemon, lemon, lemon, but the Key Lime
- 58:01like it's like the best merrier of like lemon and lime.
- 58:05It's like as sweet. It's high, high in acid, but a
- 58:08little undertones of sweetness at the end.
- 58:10It's a perfect balance for sure. And is there something that you
- 58:13do in your kitchen that people could say, hey, look, start
- 58:16doing this and you'll be able to get a lot more flavour or just
- 58:19be more efficient? Taste, taste as you go.
- 58:23I tell them all the time, just because we have a recipe doesn't
- 58:26mean that things are going to taste the same.
- 58:27The product is not the same, you know?
- 58:30So we gotta adjust. Are you a green tape person?
- 58:33Blue tape. How green?
- 58:34OH, man, I love this question. Green tape all the way.
- 58:36Green tape. Green tape all the way.
- 58:37Yeah. Team green tape.
- 58:39That's level because there's levels.
- 58:41I don't. I don't like to brag.
- 58:42When you come into my space and you see the green tape, you'll
- 58:46know that I'm building professionals.
- 58:48Into the world, Yeah, Team green tape for sure.
- 58:53Last question, chef, if you have a a Mount Rushmore of chefs, 4
- 58:57people that should be on Mount Rushmore to you Who?
- 59:00Who should those 4 chefs be? Who?
- 59:02Are we talking about national? Anyone.
- 59:04Anyone. Anyone living dead.
- 59:06Oh man, here. Abroad doesn't matter 4 chefs
- 59:09that that you you feel are the greatest to you.
- 59:13We're going to go with Bao Cantu in California at one.
- 59:17Yeah. He's he's opening a spot here.
- 59:18Yeah. Yeah.
- 59:19You're in Austin. Yeah.
- 59:20Yeah, Yeah, yeah. He's been a massive inspiration
- 59:24in my career. I was luckily enough to dine at
- 59:26the first one and then at the large space.
- 59:28We've kept in contact throughout my career.
- 59:30He actually tipped me. I don't know if I should say
- 59:32that. He he gave me advice when when
- 59:35the guy was announced, for sure. Then Olvera and Regola in Mexico
- 59:40for sure, just because a pioneer, right?
- 59:43You got to give the guy credits for sure.
- 59:45Shepherd out there, just because I'm a firm believer that none of
- 59:50us in Houston, and I do mean none of us in Houston will be
- 59:53where we at without him. He broke.
- 59:56Barriers shout out to. Christian yeah shout out and
- 59:58Southern smokes too, especially now like another one hot
- 1:00:01transition away from when it's time and I I love that and for
- 1:00:05that he has to be up there. Justin, you for sure.
- 1:00:10For me personally, just. He was able to he was ahead of
- 1:00:14his time. You know the tasty menu,
- 1:00:16vegetarian tasty menu in 2012 in Houston, unheard of, right?
- 1:00:22Changed the game and he was also able to transition into
- 1:00:24multiple. He's now a business owner has
- 1:00:26bars late concepts James B Winter.
- 1:00:30I'm sure he's going to. He's going for a Michelin star.
- 1:00:32Like you can tell, like he has a little.
- 1:00:34Chip, he's a, he's a, he's a bad motherfucker.
- 1:00:36Yeah, he's super talented. He's done it all.
- 1:00:38Yeah. I feel like once you cook at
- 1:00:40Meadowood, back when Meadowood was around, if you got invited
- 1:00:43to the 12 years of Christmas, yeah, that solidified you.
- 1:00:46That's one of the greatest ever. You got invited.
- 1:00:49That's. Smart, That was very smart, what
- 1:00:51they were doing at Meadowood during that time, bringing in
- 1:00:53the talent. Before the talent flourished.
- 1:00:55Yeah. John Shields was there.
- 1:00:57Yeah, it's, but again, not a lot of people nowadays know that
- 1:01:00because they don't do their history and research.
- 1:01:02And I'm a student of the game. I I thrive on little pockets of
- 1:01:06history like that. Yeah, I am too.
- 1:01:08I love, I love. I love it.
- 1:01:10Chef, this was great. Where can people find you if
- 1:01:13they want to eat your food, if they want to follow you on
- 1:01:14social media? Social media go by dishwasher 89
- 1:01:18and then Houston, TX at the demo we'll.
- 1:01:21Have to. We'll have to bring you back.
- 1:01:22Please do. Thank you.
- 1:01:24All right, that's the show. If you liked it, make sure you
- 1:01:26leave five stars. Nothing less than five stars.
- 1:01:28If you want more chefs PSA, go to chefspsa.com.
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- 1:01:43We'll see you next week. Hit the porno music no?
- 1:01:46Smelling dress in the kitchen mixing Drop the chef Dallas No
- 1:01:50fiction. Stirring up the BT enough the
- 1:01:52session listen close classes in session.