Latest / Saving the World From Bad Ideas / Bad Idea #40 "the food system is fundamentally broken" with Jan Dutkiewicz
Transcript
- 0:00The livestock industry does not believe in the free operation of
- 0:03the market and they never have right?
- 0:06The livestock industry in every country relies on government
- 0:09largess in many ways, be it subsidies, be it regulatory
- 0:13carve outs in the case of agricultural exceptionalism or
- 0:16now with this quite aggressive moves against both plant based
- 0:19and cellular agriculture on a regulatory pre empting of
- 0:22competition. Actually banning running
- 0:24cultivated meat in several states in the US before it's
- 0:27even been before it's even been developed.
- 0:30Welcome to saving the world from bad ideas.
- 0:32I'm Mark Linus and I've had a few bad ideas in my time.
- 0:36I used to go out in the night time to destroy GMO crops, and I
- 0:39also opposed nuclear power. But then when I looked at the
- 0:41science, I found I got it wrong. Oops.
- 0:44I've learned the hard way that none of us are right all the
- 0:46time. So now I'm here to challenge the
- 0:48assumptions that we all too often take for granted because
- 0:51the future depends on us getting it right.
- 0:54Hello, My guest today is Jan Dukovitz, who's assistant
- 0:57professor at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn and a contributing
- 1:02editor at the New Republic. He's also co-author, with
- 1:06Gabriel Rosenberg, of a new book called Feed the People, Why
- 1:10Industrial Food is Good and How to Make It Even Better.
- 1:14Yeah. And welcome.
- 1:15Yeah, thanks for having me. Now your book suggests an
- 1:19immediate bad idea because on this show, we're all about
- 1:22saving the world from bad ideas. And so I just want to suggest
- 1:25and see whether you think this is a good bad idea.
- 1:28Industrial food is bad. Is that is that the bad idea
- 1:30that we can use to to headline this this episode?
- 1:33Industrial food is bad? Absolutely.
- 1:36OK, tell me why. Well, first we have to define
- 1:39what industrial food means. And I think that there's a
- 1:41common misconception where industrial is used as a synonym
- 1:45for bad or for ultra processed. And what Gabriel and I, my
- 1:51co-author and I do in the book is we take a step back and we
- 1:53say what exactly do we mean by industrial food?
- 1:55And by industrial food, we mean food that is produced using
- 1:58industrial principles of scale, standards and regulation in
- 2:05order to create abundance relatively cheaply, which is
- 2:11accessible to a large number of people.
- 2:13And we think that that describes many aspects of our current food
- 2:17system. And absolutely that does
- 2:18describe the sugary cereal on the shelves, but it also
- 2:21describes how we produce most fruit, most vegetables, most
- 2:26staples like grains. And we argue that on balance,
- 2:31that has made the world a better place, a healthier place, a more
- 2:35abundant place, a place where there's more varied access to a
- 2:38wide range of delicious foods. Yeah, because you so often hear
- 2:41that our food system is broken, right?
- 2:44I mean, obviously that's not your take and we'll dig into
- 2:48into why not a bit more deeply. But the, you know, the food
- 2:51system, I guess if you take a proper historical viewpoint of
- 2:54this, delivers incredible abundance at a scale and with
- 2:58the reliability never seen before in, in the whole of human
- 3:02history. You know, we do you think we're
- 3:04just getting a bit spoiled because, you know, we all eat
- 3:06like medieval kings now. And as a result, we're getting
- 3:09so fat that we have to take shots to decrease our appetite.
- 3:12And, you know, we've just forgotten what it's like to have
- 3:15food scarcity, at least on the kind of the general societal
- 3:19scale. I think that's exactly it.
- 3:21Most people living in, especially most people who are
- 3:24relatively affluent living in, broadly speaking, the global
- 3:26North, have no memory of food availability being the problem.
- 3:30That is to say, they're not being enough food to feed
- 3:33everyone. There are some access issues,
- 3:35but still, food insecurity, while unacceptably high, is
- 3:39still a minority, a vast minority of the population in
- 3:42the United States. The number is about 14% of
- 3:44Americans are food insecure. And in the book, we get into
- 3:47addressing food insecurity. But for the rest of us, we do,
- 3:51we, each of us can eat like, as you said, like a medieval king.
- 3:55And we've lost sight of that. And from that vantage point,
- 4:00it's easy to critique things like diseases of affluence,
- 4:04which are caused by eating too much of the wrong things
- 4:07whenever we want. It's relatively easy and I, and
- 4:11I think fair to critique some of the political economy of the
- 4:14food system. But I think critiquing the basis
- 4:18of the food system and what it has, what it has done, what it
- 4:21has allowed us to do as a society, which is for most
- 4:24people to not sort of work in drudgery in agriculture and live
- 4:31long and healthy lives, eating varied and very affordable
- 4:35diets, falls out. And I think from there we get
- 4:38these claims that whenever you identify as a problem with the
- 4:40food system, there's this leap to suggesting the food system
- 4:43itself is broken. And I'm happy to talk about why
- 4:47that doesn't even work as a descriptor of the idea, which is
- 4:50that the food system is a system, which is to say it's a
- 4:54complex array of relatively simple inputs or actors, right?
- 5:00So seeds, fields, farmers, commodity brokers,
- 5:05transportation companies, restaurants and so on that
- 5:10synergistically work together to achieve an outcome.
- 5:12So saying that that's broken is is the wrong term to describe
- 5:17what's wrong. It's like saying the example we
- 5:19use in the book. It's like saying that if you're
- 5:21at your house on a sweltering summer day and the air
- 5:24conditioner goes on the Fritz, it's like saying your house is
- 5:27broken. Well, your house isn't broken.
- 5:30You need to identify the specific problem that needs to
- 5:33be fixed, which is your air conditioner doesn't work.
- 5:35And if you fix your air conditioner, then your house is
- 5:36comfortable again. And so we think that approaching
- 5:39food system problems should be done like that, which is
- 5:43identifying specific problems and then seeking out specific
- 5:46solutions to those problems where those problems exist,
- 5:48rather than just throwing our hands up.
- 5:50Yeah, I want you mentioned about the food system being a complex
- 5:54system. And I wonder if the level of
- 5:56complexity is part of the reason for this critique is in that you
- 6:00can't almost by definition understand how a complex system
- 6:03works, right? I mean the it's almost an
- 6:06emergent property from all of this complexity that most people
- 6:08that most of the time get fed to quite a high level.
- 6:12But to most people, like, I guess the fact that it is so
- 6:16complex means that you can't directly affect it and you feel
- 6:20alienated perhaps and, and it, and it feels like the system is
- 6:23very vulnerable, whereas actually the complexity can, can
- 6:27also be a source of, of great resilience.
- 6:29So I mean, there's a whole study of complexity theory, which I
- 6:32know very little about, but I'm aware, I mean, the Earth system
- 6:35is also a complex system which you can't actually understand.
- 6:39You can sort of model it and you can understand the some of the
- 6:41dynamics that emerge from it, but you can't really produce and
- 6:44and change the system in in the same way you would say the
- 6:47Earth's system is broken like people say the food system is
- 6:49broken. Yeah.
- 6:50What do you think about that? Well, I mean, I think the Earth
- 6:52system is vastly more complex than a food system that we
- 6:55could, you know, that we could actually map out.
- 6:59But the food system is a highly complex system.
- 7:01And I think for that reason, few people understand every, in fact
- 7:06few people involved in the food system itself understand every
- 7:11complexity of every aspect of the system as it comes together.
- 7:14And I think that in the face of this, in the face of it being
- 7:18just so large, I think the average person both knows very
- 7:23little about how food works, how food gets on their plates, about
- 7:28food policy or about non food policies that actually affect
- 7:32the food system, affect the food they can eat.
- 7:34And then therefore, I think because food is so personal,
- 7:38it's so viscerally felt and so many people so personally and
- 7:41culturally important, it's easy to fall for simplifications,
- 7:46right? So it's easy to fall for
- 7:47scaremongering, be it about individual foods from sort of
- 7:51the diet gurus, or to fall for this claim that the food system
- 7:55is broken and needs to be sort of razed to the ground and
- 7:58rebuilt from scratch, which is what's offered by it a lot of
- 8:01food writers and a lot of people who influence public opinion on
- 8:03food. Yeah, let's talk about them a
- 8:05bit. I mean, it's not actually the
- 8:06food industry that you rail about quite so much as the food
- 8:09writing industry, as you call it.
- 8:11And these are all these people who are seeking to convince us
- 8:14that there's something terribly wrong and making a lot of money
- 8:17selling books, opening high end restaurants and, you know, going
- 8:21back to the land and becoming Wellness influencers and gurus
- 8:23and all the rest of it. I don't know if I'm doing them a
- 8:25disservice, but I mean, this is a, this is an enormous industry
- 8:29of quite successful people who who's staked a lot in telling us
- 8:32that the food system is, you know, quote, UN quote, broken.
- 8:35Yeah, exactly. So, well, I would not say that
- 8:38we let the food industry off the hook.
- 8:40I think we're I think in the book, I'd like to talk about
- 8:42this more later. We're quite critical of the food
- 8:44industry. What?
- 8:45But but what we want to do, the first thing we want to do in the
- 8:47book is disabuse readers of this idea that the food system is
- 8:50broken and to sort of bust a few of these myths that have been
- 8:53propagated by these super influential writers.
- 8:57So obviously I'm sitting in the United States.
- 8:59So people like perhaps most notably Michael Pollan and and
- 9:04of course the much broader as opposed Galaxy of the diet
- 9:10influencers and the food influencers who now it bears
- 9:14noting. I mean, we're not talking about
- 9:15a bunch of cranks, right? We're talking about best selling
- 9:17authors and we're talking about people who now influence food
- 9:20policy at the highest levels in the United States, right?
- 9:24So we're talking. About people, I mean, I've said
- 9:27they're virtually hegemonic and I'm certainly.
- 9:30Absolutely, yeah. I mean, especially, especially
- 9:33in the cultural realm in terms of in terms of food discourse, I
- 9:36would say they're hegemonic and increasingly they're influencing
- 9:39policy. So, and I, and I think these
- 9:42people need to be critiqued for the basic reason that they often
- 9:47misrepresent research or don't rely on research at all about
- 9:51the food system. And this is whether we're
- 9:53talking about questions of nutrition.
- 9:56So what constitutes a healthy diet versus not a healthy diet
- 9:58in terms of the environmental impact of foods, perhaps most
- 10:02notably, and downplaying the environmental impact of
- 10:05livestock, but not exclusively. And also in sowing up, I mean,
- 10:10disinformation, sometimes this information, but often simply
- 10:12misinformation to the public about what's wrong with the food
- 10:15system, about what the public should eat, about what they
- 10:18should worry about, and about who's at fault, right, Sort of
- 10:20who the bad guys are in the story of food.
- 10:24So what we want to do is we want to change the narrative.
- 10:26We want to actually like many of these people who say that there
- 10:28are problems of the food system don't even define what a food
- 10:31system is, much less identify problems.
- 10:34And even if they identify problems in a way that's more or
- 10:38less convincing, they turn to solutions that are unviable, be
- 10:43it economically or literally, physically, or that can't scale.
- 10:47So to give you a concrete example, Michael Pollan, who
- 10:49wrote The Omnivore's Dilemma. Omnivore's Dilemma is a I'm sure
- 10:53your readers have heard of it. It's a just a runaway bestseller
- 10:58from 2006 that really put the question of thinking about the
- 11:03food system into the modern American zeitgeist.
- 11:08You know, and pollen points to the usual problems, right?
- 11:10Americans are obese, their environmental externalities,
- 11:13food production, food corporation have quite a bit of
- 11:15power. But then when he turns to
- 11:17solutions, he points to, you know, his sort of avatar of who
- 11:21constitutes a good farmer and what good farmers should look
- 11:24like as a small scale livestock farmer who is deeply opposed to
- 11:29scaling production, who is deeply opposed to the regulatory
- 11:32state, who's de facto libertarian right, and who
- 11:36produces hyperlocal food that's primarily based around a
- 11:39livestock system. And we just know from, you know,
- 11:43basic economics suggests that food that's so small, that's not
- 11:48produced at scale will be very expensive.
- 11:51It's simply not viable. In the United States, a country
- 11:54where about less than 1% of people actually work on farms.
- 11:57Most people work in cities. You need systems that can scale.
- 12:01Opposition to the regulatory state is obviously an awful
- 12:05idea. In large, complex economies.
- 12:07The role of the regulatory state is both the put guardrails on
- 12:11the function of capital and also to protect the public interest,
- 12:14be it around environmental externalities, be it around food
- 12:17health. In fact, I would argue that we
- 12:18need far more regulation of agriculture rather than far
- 12:22less. And then moreover, this leaves a
- 12:25lot of basic questions unanswered, like questions of
- 12:26Labor, this idea that, oh, all food will be produced by family
- 12:30farms. Well, we know that's not the
- 12:31case. Who will work on these farms?
- 12:33None of, but none of these questions are answered, right?
- 12:35These actual ants, these actual important questions that need
- 12:39answering, are replaced just by this persona of the righteous
- 12:43farmer, which of course, in the American National conscience
- 12:47goes back to the sort of Jeffersonian frontiersman,
- 12:51yeomer Yeoman farmer, sort of like a salt of the earth true
- 12:54American who's beyond being questioned all of.
- 12:56It all of it works in every country.
- 12:58I mean, the French ideal have their ideal peasant and sort of
- 13:01the Italians and so on, you know.
- 13:04Yeah. So it's it's a sort of myth
- 13:05making, right. And it's a myth making that's
- 13:07divorced from any consideration of real pragmatics of improving
- 13:11the diet of the average person and it's divorced from sort of
- 13:18non productive considerations of the food system, right.
- 13:20So how would you how would you link, for instance, this small
- 13:23farm to things like food aid programs like the SNAP program
- 13:27or food stamps in the United States?
- 13:28How would you link it to school lunches and so on and so forth.
- 13:31All of this falls out behind this romanticization of a non
- 13:36scalable small farming system. Yeah, and the patron St. of all
- 13:41these foodies and agrarian nostalgics, of course, is, is
- 13:44Wendell Berry, who sort of sparked a movement that's both
- 13:49kind of proudly Luddite and also very ahistorical.
- 13:53And perhaps because he was a poet, he could be a lot more
- 13:56eloquent and convincing in his narrative storytelling than all
- 13:59of us data-driven types. He's kind of like, in my mind,
- 14:02he's kind of like an anti Norman Borlaug in that he, you know,
- 14:05hates the Green revolution, looks back to a world of
- 14:08structural famine. And well, it obviously wouldn't
- 14:11say this, but this was a world where there was structural
- 14:13famine, high infant mortality and all these diseases of
- 14:16malnutrition. Like Goiter and Ricketts, as you
- 14:18write in your book and and and you know, Wendell Berry's
- 14:20saying, you know, that was better because at least it
- 14:23wasn't industrial. Yeah, absolutely.
- 14:25Well, so Wendell Berry is the godfather of this idea, and he's
- 14:28in fact, I think the godfather of this very idea that
- 14:30industrialism is somehow impure, right?
- 14:34Yeah, it's moral. There's a moral, there's an AB
- 14:37Sanctity isn't there with. Absolutely, absolutely.
- 14:39There's there's a very, there's very, very specific morality at
- 14:42play in people like Wendell Berry who see anything
- 14:46industrial. And as we note in the book, this
- 14:48applies to for Bury as much to agriculture as it does to sex,
- 14:51right? But anything modern is somehow
- 14:54sullied and impure. And so we need to return to this
- 14:58pre modernity while ignoring all of, as you said, that pre
- 15:01modernity is harms. So Barry is looking at a world
- 15:04where pre modern food science. So if we're talking about the
- 15:09turn of the 20th century, the United States is a place that is
- 15:12deeply unhealthy. Life expectancy is 47.
- 15:17And of course, that's brought down by Hyde.
- 15:19Hyde and mortality. It's not just a question, you
- 15:22know, Scurvy goiters, Ricketts, Merasmus, pellagra.
- 15:27Pellagra alone kills hundreds of thousands of people you know.
- 15:30No one will even, no one will even know what these diseases
- 15:32are so. Exactly because because they've
- 15:34been, because they've been forgotten, right?
- 15:36Because they've been, they've been banished to the dustbin of
- 15:38the past by an industrial, abandoned, excuse me, an
- 15:44industrial abundant food system. But so so he's looking back to
- 15:46that world. He's looking back to a world of
- 15:50these small family farms, many of which relied on child labor,
- 15:57were not necessarily environmentally sustainable.
- 15:59I would like to remind your listeners, especially those in
- 16:02the United States, that the Dust Bowl, which is perhaps the
- 16:05greatest ecological disaster in American history, was caused in
- 16:08large part by poor Land Management by small scale family
- 16:12farmers. It happened before American
- 16:16agriculture was truly industrialized.
- 16:18And Barry looks back to that world, and again, he's sort of
- 16:22blinded by this image of the Yeoman frontiersman farmer,
- 16:27which was so central that that image is so central to the
- 16:30American psyche that you can sort of push everything else
- 16:34aside. You push aside all the other
- 16:35downsides, and you focus on this sort of avatar of frontiersman
- 16:40American masculinity, if you will, and you fixate on that.
- 16:44And it's just a very poor basis for thinking about the better
- 16:48food system. And there's a reason, right?
- 16:50There's a reason that this food revolution promised by Barry and
- 16:54by his acolytes, by the sort of Alice Waters of the world that
- 16:57Michael Pollan's The World has never happened because of what
- 17:00it's done is it's influenced how relatively affluent people think
- 17:05about food. And it may have influenced how
- 17:07relatively affluent people shop. So a certain tranche of people
- 17:11who, you know, go to the farmers market and get food from their
- 17:14local CSA and go to these farm to table restaurants.
- 17:17But it hasn't structurally changed the food system.
- 17:20And the question is why? And of course one question is a
- 17:23sort of institutional inertia and the interests of large scale
- 17:27food business. But the other reason it hasn't
- 17:29changed the food system is because it can't, because we
- 17:32can't have a food system that works at scale and provides
- 17:36affordable food that's based on those principles.
- 17:39I mean, it's hardly surprising given that what Wendell Berry's
- 17:43essentially saying is, is the kind of food Luddism.
- 17:46And I think he was a proud Luddite when it came to other
- 17:49forms of technology as well. I was just skimming through some
- 17:51of his quotes before we talked and there's a post from many
- 17:56years ago called Why I'm Not going to Buy a Computer and I
- 17:59wondered, well, how did this post end up online then?
- 18:03How does his not buying computer end up by posting stuff on the
- 18:06web? Anyway, he writes as a writer.
- 18:08I work with a pencil or a pen and a piece of paper.
- 18:12My wife types my work on a Royal standard typewriter and this,
- 18:16this is the process. So he he avoids the
- 18:18technological trap by having a new piece of technology called
- 18:20wife. And actually there's a lot of
- 18:23gender politics that come into into this agrarian fantasy,
- 18:27isn't there? Because, you know, if you if
- 18:29you're going to cook food from scratch or insist, that has to
- 18:32be the way that households are run.
- 18:33It's not that you're not a long way away from the kind of trad
- 18:36wives movement, are you? No, not at all.
- 18:38And and yet again, let's go to the data and not to, you know,
- 18:43not to moralize. And the simple fact of the
- 18:45matter is that statistically, most household work, and
- 18:47especially food preparation work, historically and
- 18:50contemporarily, is unpaid labor done by women in the household.
- 18:54So every call to produce everything from scratch or to
- 18:58type up your notes because you couldn't be bothered to write
- 19:00the on a typewriter yourself is implicitly a call for more
- 19:07unpaid labor by by women in the household.
- 19:09And similarly, the notion of the small family farm is an idea
- 19:14predicated on domestic labor often done by offspring.
- 19:18As we write about in the book when the earliest anti child
- 19:22labor crusaders in the United States really tried to pin down
- 19:26where most child labor was being done.
- 19:28Sure, some of it was being done in industry in a sort of like
- 19:31Dickensian British industrial revolution sense, but the vast
- 19:35majority of child labor was being done on family farms by
- 19:39the children of farmers. And so there's this, there's
- 19:42this whole notion of this farm is this sort of like stand alone
- 19:48economic unit that should be the basis of the sort of better and
- 19:53potentially healthier quote UN quote, healthier agrarian
- 19:55political economy, which is entirely predicated on unpaid
- 19:58family labor. Yeah, absolutely.
- 20:00And. You know, Barry's alternative to
- 20:03industrial eating is, you know, that you have to essentially you
- 20:06have to grow your own. So you need land.
- 20:09Fortunately, he, he inherits a farm, but most of us aren't in
- 20:12that position. You need a lot of time.
- 20:15So you need presumably to have enough income from elsewhere
- 20:18that you, you don't need to have an actual real job.
- 20:21You need labour, of course, and you need a lot of education
- 20:24because you need to learn all about why the food system's
- 20:26broken and all of that sort of stuff.
- 20:28And, you know, it just shows really how elitist the whole
- 20:31sort of program really is because, as you say, you've got
- 20:34to start by taking your kids out of school so they can actually
- 20:37work on a farm at harvest time or on planting time or whatever
- 20:40during, you know, which is exactly what happened during the
- 20:42good old days. That very romanticizes.
- 20:45And you also say in the book that the one place where child
- 20:47labor laws are currently exempted is in the farming
- 20:50system still. Yes.
- 20:51So this is a much bigger question that applies.
- 20:54I mean it applies globally, but it's it's very marked in the
- 20:57United States. So there's a broad concept
- 20:59called agricultural exceptionalism, which is a term
- 21:02used by people who study agricultural policy to refer to
- 21:05the broad range of carve outs and exemptions in laws and
- 21:10regulations for agriculture as compared to other industries.
- 21:14Which is to say that agriculture is treated as an industry apart
- 21:19with far more LAX regulation when it comes to virtually
- 21:21everything from zoning production facilities to the
- 21:28environmental harms of those facilities to questions of
- 21:32Labor. So just to give you an example,
- 21:33if you were to want to build, you know, something that
- 21:37produces a factory, that produces widgets that had, you
- 21:42know, certain uses of water and certain eutrophication effects
- 21:46on water, you would need to either filter or clean that
- 21:51water to some to some degree, right?
- 21:54And you certainly would need basic things like plumbing for
- 21:57the toilets for your employees. If you want to build a factory
- 21:59farm which has 10s of thousands of pigs individually confined in
- 22:04gestation crates, you can just literally dig a hole in the
- 22:07ground, line it and Chuck all the manure and all the other
- 22:14emissions from the factory farm into that pit.
- 22:17These things are called manure lagoons.
- 22:19So just so that's just one example of how something like
- 22:23factory farming exists by dint of an of an exception.
- 22:27And the same goes for all kinds of processes within that, right.
- 22:29So every things like artificial insemination of animals at a
- 22:32large scale in the United States, in over 30 states,
- 22:36artificial insemination needs specifically got legal carve
- 22:39outs from animal abuse legislation because it would
- 22:42count as animal abuse if you did it to your dog or cat in your
- 22:47household and the same thing. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- 22:50So there are there are basically carve outs for artificial
- 22:55insemination because if if it was done to a household pet in a
- 22:58number of states in the US will be treated as bestiality, it
- 23:00will be treated as sexual abuse of animals.
- 23:02Wow. And of course, if you use a
- 23:03cattle problem, your dog because it's, you know.
- 23:06Yeah, because it's because it's because it's not moving to go
- 23:08for its walk or not moving to get inside from its dog.
- 23:10Yeah, that would also be. Jail, Yeah.
- 23:12That would also be animal abuse and and so this sort of filters
- 23:18all the way down right and it filters through to labor.
- 23:20So agriculture is left to agricultural minimum employment
- 23:25ages are often left to the states, which means that states
- 23:28where agriculture is an important part of the economy,
- 23:31or at least where agricultural interests have a lot of sway
- 23:34with policy makers, minimum aid, both absolute minimum ages tend
- 23:39to be lower. So, you know, there are states
- 23:41where children as young as 10 can be employed in seasonal
- 23:44harvest labor doing things like picking berries, but also the
- 23:47age for using a heavy and potentially hazardous machinery
- 23:51or working with hazardous machinery.
- 23:53So be it cleaning sharp blades at a meat, processing plants or
- 23:58driving a tractor or what have you is also lowered.
- 24:02And it's also no surprise that as we write in the book,
- 24:06agriculture far and away has the most injuries, but I mean both
- 24:10in general, but to underage laborers and has the most
- 24:14underage laborer deaths. And you have kids and flowery
- 24:17lagoons and awful things like that.
- 24:18Don't. You.
- 24:18Yeah, absolutely. I mean, you have you have kids
- 24:21who work with diggers, who are crushed under diggers.
- 24:24There are multiple cases of kids drowning exactly in these manure
- 24:28lagoons that I just described. You've got multiple cases of
- 24:32children working long hours in the heat and dying of of heat
- 24:35stroke or exposure out in the fields.
- 24:38And so, yeah, And it's sort of this, it's an endemic problem
- 24:42that no one wants to talk about. So again, as we document in the
- 24:45book, there have been for decades, there have been
- 24:48opponents of child labor in Congress who have tried to pass
- 24:52bills to close his basic loophole.
- 24:55Right. They're not trying to say, you
- 24:57know, let's make agricultural work completely safe because
- 25:01it's impossible. Agricultural labor is very
- 25:03difficult, but let's at least normalize the minimum labor age.
- 25:07And these bills lose. They just cannot pass.
- 25:10It doesn't matter if the Democrats are in power or if the
- 25:13Republicans are in power. And they can't pass for two
- 25:15reasons #1 the pressure of agricultural lobby groups,
- 25:19including farmer groups, which is something I'd like to, if we
- 25:23have time, come back to right? This idea that we think of Agri
- 25:26business as bad, but farmers as noble and pure.
- 25:29Not, not the case. In fact, most farmers are.
- 25:33What would we should think about as Agri business, but I digress.
- 25:36So farmer groups, industry groups have put so much pressure
- 25:40on lawmakers that this thing had that these sort of bills trying
- 25:43to increase the minimum age in agriculture have, have all been
- 25:47dead or arrival. And in fact, and, and I think
- 25:50and, and one thing I'll say is that this is the moment we're
- 25:52all, all of these sort of people who claim to care about the food
- 25:56movement. So all these sort of food
- 25:59writers and all these politicians who adhere to the
- 26:03sort of vision of making farmer, making farming better,
- 26:06healthier, etcetera, etcetera. Where were they?
- 26:09Where were these champions of agricultural justice when there
- 26:12was a call for common sense regulation which would take more
- 26:16kids out of dangerous agricultural labor and they were
- 26:19nowhere to be found? Well, maybe Wendell Berry's
- 26:22perspective, and I'm only being a bit facetious here.
- 26:24Maybe he maybe he thinks it's fine.
- 26:26Well, yeah, maybe they he thinks that the kids are at least, you
- 26:30know, connected to the land in some spiritual sense and, and
- 26:33now know where the food's coming from.
- 26:34Yeah, or they think of it as education, which is exactly how
- 26:37opponents to these talk to these laws have framed this right?
- 26:41Because the people trying to pass these laws have
- 26:43specifically said that this applies to large scale food
- 26:47production that is dangerous and that relies on wage child labor.
- 26:51So carve outs for children working on farms owned by their
- 26:55parents and carve outs for 4H clubs, which are these sort of
- 26:58American agricultural education clubs if your readers haven't,
- 27:01or CV if your listeners haven't heard of them.
- 27:03So there were clear carve outs, clear exemptions, and
- 27:07nonetheless all critics, so starting from Fox News to even
- 27:10Democratic state senators, all said that these anti child labor
- 27:15crusaders were trying to kill job opportunities and sort of
- 27:19job training and cultural training opportunities for the
- 27:22for the children of for the children of small farmers and
- 27:25for 4H clubs, which are specifically the things that
- 27:27were exempted. The idea was to not have kids,
- 27:31you know, cleaning slaughterhouses at night,
- 27:33working around the newer lagoons, picking apples and
- 27:36berries in the hot sun for multiple hours.
- 27:38But the two were conflated. And that's how these bills,
- 27:41that's how these bills died. Well, and that's the the danger
- 27:44of a growing romanticism in the real world, isn't it?
- 27:46It does, it just does so much damage.
- 27:48And I wonder, and I promise we'll move on in a bit, but I
- 27:50just want to dig into this because I do find it so
- 27:51fascinating. What why is it that these
- 27:54fantasies of a sort of pre industrial Garden of Eden are so
- 27:57hard to to shake off? And, and I think it's it's sort
- 28:01of a horseshoe theory of politics here.
- 28:02It affects the left and the right in in almost the same way
- 28:06with this kind of nostalgic impulses, I think because, you
- 28:09know, MAGA, of course, make American great, make America
- 28:12great again is this idea that it was great in the past and we
- 28:14need to go back to the past. And the same for Maha, you know,
- 28:17Robert F Kennedy's Junior's anti vaccine crusade, which is now
- 28:21running the US Department of Health all about making America
- 28:24healthy again. These were the times when you
- 28:25had all these diseases, malnutrition and the life
- 28:28expectancy expectancy was in the mid 40s.
- 28:30You know, that was of course a great time when everyone H
- 28:33organic and there was no such thing as autism.
- 28:35So you know what, where does this come from this this kind of
- 28:39this crazy shit? And why is it so universal?
- 28:44I mean, I, I think we've, I think we've touched on it.
- 28:46I think there's a real appeal for people who live in the
- 28:52modern West to feel a sort of enemy about their the state of
- 28:58the world that to try to and to try to seek something like like
- 29:02a moral clarity about different about different issues and to
- 29:06find it in the past, right. Like where, where do you look to
- 29:09for, for a better world? Where you look, you look to
- 29:12simplicity and where do you find simplicity and you find
- 29:16simplicity in the past. So I think it's, it's very easy
- 29:19to find, to find sort of like moral sucker in, in the purity
- 29:25of an imagined past, especially when you are so removed from
- 29:28that past that you can romanticize it, right?
- 29:31That you're sort of you're looking at a, you know, you're
- 29:33looking at like a like an American Gothic painting because
- 29:36you've never lived on a small Iowa farm in the 1930s.
- 29:40And I think, and I think that's the appeal, right?
- 29:41And I also think that many of the trappings of these fantasies
- 29:46are actually paradoxically made available by the modern systems
- 29:51that these people rail against, right.
- 29:53And So what I mean by this is, for instance, proponents of
- 29:55carnivore diets like RFK, you know, they say, well, people
- 30:00should just eat less junk and they should eat more meat.
- 30:03Well, the level of meat that they're suggesting people eat is
- 30:07only possible in a world of factory farms and animals on
- 30:12factory farms eating mass scale monocrop grains.
- 30:16Americans already eat 220 lbs, perhaps more of meat each every
- 30:21year. The new the new nutritional
- 30:23guidelines call for an increase in protein consumption,
- 30:26especially from animal based sources.
- 30:28So this idea that we know we should eat like our ancestors,
- 30:31but our ancestors and actually Gabriel Rosenberg and I have
- 30:33written about this for Fox, our ancestors, what our ancestors
- 30:37ate is a is a big question about our ancestors who dwell on farms
- 30:40a few generations ago certainly did not eat that much meat.
- 30:44In fact, they ate very, very diets because they didn't have
- 30:46access to mass produced animals. So animals were eaten seasonally
- 30:51or sparingly amidst other foods, amidst A narrow, relatively
- 30:55narrow range of other foods. But what I mean by this is this
- 30:58idea that like, you should eat more meat.
- 30:59Well, you can only eat more meat in a hyper modern system.
- 31:02In fact, you can only proselytize about eating more
- 31:04meat on the Internet as a result of modernity, right?
- 31:09And these very same people who urge you to eat like this.
- 31:12So you know, the sort of Andrew Huberman's and Joe Rogan's and
- 31:16the rest of them also, it just so happens that the very people
- 31:20who don't want you eating industrial junk are the same
- 31:22people who are peddling you food supplements, food supplements
- 31:25that are under regulated and that are produced in industrial
- 31:30settings that and that have few if any peer reviewed benefits,
- 31:34right. So they're benefiting from
- 31:36massive loopholes within sort of industrial modernity,
- 31:40communicating and selling these through the commercial channels
- 31:44and the information channels made possible by modernity,
- 31:46urging diets only made possible by modernity, but casting this
- 31:50totality as a sort of iconoclastic return to a past
- 31:54right, which is which is which is both ridiculous, but also but
- 31:58also quite paradoxical. But the fact that that's
- 32:01accepted, that's widely accepted and people are adherence to it,
- 32:05I think speaks to this, to this tension, right, where people are
- 32:09sort of want the benefits of modernity they have, but they
- 32:12they want ways to enact what they perceive as sort of a
- 32:16purity of action or morality from the past without thinking
- 32:19that they're not actually moving towards towards that past.
- 32:23They're not like Wendell Berry, right?
- 32:24They're not throwing out their computers and their smartphones
- 32:26and moving to the land and raising their own animals.
- 32:29They're just going to, you know, they're going to Costco and
- 32:32buying beef and not buying bread.
- 32:35Yeah, maybe it's a point of phrase they they want to have
- 32:37their cake and eat it and not get fat thanks to ozone pick,
- 32:40but there's. Yeah, exactly.
- 32:42But you, you, you, you actually vote a piece in the New York
- 32:46Times actually today at the point at the time of recording,
- 32:50which suggests that perhaps that things might be changing.
- 32:53I mean, the New York Times was really the kind of paragon in
- 32:56house journal of the of the sort of upper class foodies, you
- 32:59know, being the home of Michael Pollan and I think Mark Bittman
- 33:02too and others. And it's headlines why we
- 33:05shouldn't want to eat like our great, great grandparents, which
- 33:07is a nod to Michael Pollan's original phrase, wasn't it?
- 33:10In the Omnivore, I was saying don't eat.
- 33:12I think don't eat anything that your grand great great
- 33:14grandmother wouldn't recognize as food.
- 33:16As food, Exactly. Right.
- 33:18And so, you know, things changing, you've you've had an
- 33:20op-ed in the New York Times, which is about as good as it
- 33:22gets. Does that tell us something?
- 33:24As much I think the pat myself on the back and say that my one
- 33:27op-ed in the New York Times is going to change the course of
- 33:29American food conversation, I think I'm cognizant of the fact
- 33:32that that's not going to happen. But I think people are hungry
- 33:35for I think people are hungry for a more honest conversation
- 33:39about food. I mean, I food is, I think
- 33:41always top of mind. It's especially top of mind now
- 33:43with, you know, these sorts of food influencers and Maha and
- 33:47the rise of Ozempic. And I think people are
- 33:51interested in an honest conversation about food and
- 33:53hearing different viewpoints. And the op-ed that I wrote with,
- 33:57again, with Gabriel Rosenberg, basically just says that rather
- 34:01than demonizing all aspects of the modern food system, we
- 34:05should take a slightly more nuanced approach, which is that,
- 34:08yes, we live in a food system where we are surrounded by junk
- 34:11and bad foods, but we can just as easily, most of us opt for
- 34:17healthier options or less environmentally impactful
- 34:19options. And we have to recognize that
- 34:21both the good and the bad come through the same value chains
- 34:25and are the result of the same system.
- 34:26And so our argument in the book is quite simply that we can't
- 34:30start from scratch. We can't go back to this
- 34:33identic, or actually not so identic, the sort of past full
- 34:37of malnutrition and child labor. We need to start where we are.
- 34:40And I think the best way to think about building a better
- 34:43food system is to use, well, sure, a little bit of consumer
- 34:48action, but also regulation to really lean into the good of the
- 34:53food system, which is abundance, a kind of scale, cheap prices,
- 34:58accessibility and away from the bad right, which I, which I
- 35:03think is, which is not, which I'm not saying is an easy lift,
- 35:06but ultimately that's what you want.
- 35:07Ultimately, what you should want from a complex food system is
- 35:11less harms. Less harms to labor, less harms
- 35:13to the environment, less harms to animals, and as much upside
- 35:17as you can. And the upside should be
- 35:21improving the quality and variety of the average diet for
- 35:25the average person. Yeah.
- 35:26And the industrial system is particularly, I'd say at its
- 35:29worst when it comes to meat and, and, and the livestock industry
- 35:32generally. Right.
- 35:33Absolutely. I mean you've mentioned about
- 35:35manure lagoons and so on, but I mean the sheer I guess the most,
- 35:40the more efficient there seems to be this trade off, the more
- 35:42efficient the animal system, animal production system is, the
- 35:46worse it tends to be for animal welfare.
- 35:49And I mean efficient in terms of feed.
- 35:51You can, you can raise a chicken and you know in a matter of
- 35:54weeks or a cow with a concentrated animal feeding
- 35:57operation much more quickly than having it out roaming and grass
- 36:00fed. But obviously the animal welfare
- 36:03implications of that are quite profound.
- 36:05And the environmental implications.
- 36:06But first, I'd like to, I'd actually like to stop you on
- 36:09that first point because when we talk about efficiency of animal
- 36:15production, we're talking on, on farm, we're talking about
- 36:20growing an animal with as effective feed conversion ratio
- 36:24of feeds to protein as quickly as possible and doing it at
- 36:28scale. And we can do that, we can
- 36:30produce a lot of animals, far more animals than we ever could.
- 36:33But as far as actual efficiency of that system delivering
- 36:36calories and protein, I mean that's very dubious, right?
- 36:40Because the feed conversion loss over the lifetime of any animal
- 36:46that's fed crops that are grown to be feed, they will lose.
- 36:51They will be fed far more calories and far more protein
- 36:53over their lifetimes than their flesh will actually yield.
- 36:57And we're talking about massive conversion loss.
- 36:59And I don't have the number off hand.
- 37:00I don't want to make them up, but I think probably the most
- 37:03efficient animal is chicken. And that's still something like
- 37:07an 80 something percent loss of net calories and protein.
- 37:10And it's far more for beef or larger animals that that live
- 37:13longer. And so ultimately, if we had
- 37:16just taken the land on which we're growing animal feed, which
- 37:20we can grow quite efficiently and grown food for humans rather
- 37:23than feed for animals, that would be a more efficient use of
- 37:26land. So I just want to, I want to put
- 37:28that little proviso in the in the efficiency question because
- 37:31it's actually not an efficient way of producing protein and
- 37:34calories. It's an efficient way of
- 37:35producing a lot of meat. And those are two, two different
- 37:38things. But of course, this system, what
- 37:40it does is it by virtue of increasing the number of animals
- 37:44that are grown quickly, primarily in enclosed spaces
- 37:48when we're talking about chickens.
- 37:50And if we're talking about pigs and in the in case of ruminants,
- 37:53you know, they're not factory farm per SE.
- 37:55So dairy cattle will be milked in industrial settings and a
- 37:59large number of beef cattle will be finished, which is to say fed
- 38:02to slaughter weight on industrial feedlots.
- 38:06So there's there are some differences, right?
- 38:08But these systems, especially the systems for chickens and
- 38:10pigs are massively inhumane, right?
- 38:14Because for a number of reasons which start with genetics, these
- 38:16are animals that are bred to four feet conversion ratio and
- 38:20to become saleable meat of the kind humans like as fast as
- 38:25possible and a lot is sacrificed there.
- 38:28You know, at the genetic level, we grow, we grow chickens that
- 38:30pass their slaughter weight. Their bones can't hold up the
- 38:34the mass of their bodies and muscle, which is why, you know,
- 38:37if you go to if you go to an animal sanctuary where they have
- 38:40animals that were rescued from industrial systems rather than
- 38:44non industrial systems, those animals leave lead hellish lives
- 38:48because they quite simply were they're not bred to live that
- 38:51long. But then of course, within
- 38:53within the systems themselves, you know, we're talking about
- 38:56cages that are highly constricting that prevent
- 38:59natural movement. They prevent, for instance,
- 39:01birds from rooting or even from stretching out their wings and
- 39:05turning around. When it comes to, and this is
- 39:08here, there may be some differences because European
- 39:11systems, if some of your listeners are in the UK and
- 39:14Europe, this animal production is slightly more regulated.
- 39:17But you know, in the United States, the use of gestational
- 39:20crates for pregnant sows is still extremely common.
- 39:23So that is to say that pregnant sows will spend 114 days at a
- 39:27time the length of their pregnancy locked into gauges
- 39:30that are 7 feet by two feet, unable to turn around or even
- 39:33lie down. And you know, I mean, like, I
- 39:35could give you more examples, but the point is that to achieve
- 39:38these systems where you have standardized economy scale
- 39:42production of meat, you need to remove much that is sort of
- 39:48inherent about animal behavior or animal welfare and treat the
- 39:51animals as much as possible as widgets.
- 39:54So the animal welfare impacts are are massive and, and very
- 39:58hard to change, right, Because you, you can make small changes
- 40:02within, within factory farmers, but ultimately you're talking
- 40:05about having thousands or 10s of thousands of animals in enclosed
- 40:08spaces with no access to the outdoors.
- 40:11And this is how we produce most need in the United States,
- 40:13right? Because most people.
- 40:14Free range, I mean free range will have access to the
- 40:16outdoors, but is that is that much better?
- 40:20It depends, right? Because these things, these are
- 40:23often sort of buzzwords that are not well regulated similarly to
- 40:26humane, right? There's in the United States,
- 40:27there's no federal animal welfare legislation other than
- 40:32the Human Methods of Slaughter Act, which applies to how
- 40:33animals are slaughtered and some legislation that comes to animal
- 40:36transport. But actual animal welfare, so
- 40:39animal treatment is legislated at the state level.
- 40:42And so, for instance, if someone makes claims about meat being
- 40:46humane, they're referring to some set of practices that they
- 40:51deem humane, but they're not referring to legislation, so.
- 40:55It could mean anything to anyone.
- 40:56So it so it could mean anything and the same.
- 40:58Goes I'm not sure there's a humane way to get slaughtered.
- 41:00I mean it's. No, I mean, there's, there
- 41:02isn't. Oh, absolutely, there's no
- 41:04humane way to get slaughtered. But what I'm saying is that even
- 41:06these basic terms like humane, humane or high welfare systems
- 41:10are, these aren't legal categories, right?
- 41:13These are ultimately, I mean, if you want to be cynical about it,
- 41:16they're just marketing categories.
- 41:18To get back to your initial question.
- 41:19And the second impact of producing animals at such a
- 41:22large scale is that you're increasing the externalities,
- 41:25right? So if you're producing more
- 41:27cows, you're of course generating more methane.
- 41:31I mean, I mean, the same goes for factory farms, right?
- 41:33If you're producing a lot of pigs, you quite simply have so
- 41:36much manure that you pump into those manure lagoons that when
- 41:38that breaks down, that's producing methane, but it's also
- 41:42leaching at the groundwater leading to eutrophication.
- 41:44So as soon as the sort of local environment can't sort of absorb
- 41:52effluent or absorb externalities, you're causing
- 41:55mass harms. And so anything that, so any
- 41:57scaled production of animals just far outstrips the capacity
- 42:00of natural systems to to absorb those externalities, right.
- 42:04And so across any metric you look at.
- 42:07So if you look at these basic metrics, which is, you know,
- 42:10emissions, land use, water use, eutrophication, impacts on
- 42:14biodiversity, by far the biggest impacts out of the entire modern
- 42:17food system are caused by livestock and especially quote
- 42:22UN quote industrialized livestock.
- 42:24And most of the time the supposed solution to us is to
- 42:27give up industrial meat and to by, you know, organic or free
- 42:31range or whatever the label happens to be.
- 42:34But I mean, not only is that not better, I was certainly not
- 42:36better once the happy pigs catch a catch wind of the
- 42:39slaughterhouse. But at the same time, it's not
- 42:41that much better in terms of the environmental metrics either
- 42:43when you consider things like land use and so on.
- 42:45Yeah, it's actually on a on a per unit basis, especially for
- 42:49for ruminants on on a per unit basis, the impact of a, you
- 42:53know, free ranging, lifelong free ranging grass grazing.
- 42:58I was going to say grass fed, but grass fed is actually one of
- 43:00these one of these marketing terms, right?
- 43:02Because you could have an animal out of feed lot who is fed grass
- 43:07that's brought in and you could call that grass fed, but
- 43:09obviously it's not an animal munching on grass, right?
- 43:11But I digress. So free ranging animals, free
- 43:16ranging ruminants on a per unit basis actually have higher
- 43:20impacts, right? Because #1 they graze, they
- 43:23require a lot of land. Number 2, they live longer, so
- 43:26they emit more methane over the course of their lifetimes.
- 43:30But small farms of the types that raise these animals do have
- 43:34lower aggregate environmental impact.
- 43:38But that's not because on a per unit basis, they're more
- 43:41environmentally benign. On a per unit basis, they could
- 43:43be environmentally worse. Their total environmental impact
- 43:46is lower just because they have far fewer animals, right?
- 43:49And it's very easy to say so, you know, the sort of the
- 43:51average person, and certainly, you know, the Michael Pollans of
- 43:56the world would say, well, of course, of course I hate factory
- 43:59farms, right? It's sort of this first line of
- 44:01defense against any critique of animal agriculture.
- 44:05And that's great that they hate them.
- 44:06But we have to accept the implication of what would happen
- 44:10if we did away with factory farms, which I think we should.
- 44:12But that means 99% in the United States.
- 44:15It means 99% less chickens produced.
- 44:18It means about 97% less pork if we get out, if we do away with
- 44:21industrial feedlots, that's about 67% less beef.
- 44:25So we'd all be de facto vegetarian or vegan overnight
- 44:28just because of this supply side intervention.
- 44:30And so I'm, I would love to have a conversation about the impacts
- 44:35of animal agriculture in a world where there are no factory
- 44:37farms, right? The average American is needing
- 44:40220 lbs of meat every year. They're eating under 100 lbs of
- 44:44meat. There is no factory farming.
- 44:46And then we can start having this conversation about how to
- 44:50regulate and how to address small scale farming.
- 44:54But we're not in that world. Small scale farming.
- 44:56That's going back to a world of scarcity, which is what we're
- 44:58trying to get away from. Here exactly and that's but
- 45:00exactly but and that is going back to the world of scarcity.
- 45:01And so that's and that's sort of the problem, right.
- 45:04And so in a sense, the small farm, the sort of this idea of
- 45:07the small farm as a foil for the factory farm is, is a real
- 45:12problem. Because what it does is it
- 45:13suggests that that's possible at scale.
- 45:15It's suggests that every piece of chicken eaten in the United
- 45:17States could come from a farm like that.
- 45:19And it quite simply can't. And so you've got this, you've
- 45:22got these systems that create more expensive food with more
- 45:26per unit environmental impact and which you can't scale.
- 45:29So it's the worst of it's the worst of all three worlds, if
- 45:32you will. Yeah, I, I remember my friend
- 45:35George Mumbio doing some doing the figures on, on beef
- 45:39production from a rewilding estate here in the UK.
- 45:42And I'm going to misquote him here, but it was something like
- 45:44one steak per person every four years or something because the
- 45:47productivity for the land is so low.
- 45:50Because actually what you're trying to do there is rewild,
- 45:52which really means removing all farming altogether.
- 45:55And certainly all actual livestock production for meat,
- 45:59but you know, a certain bit of surplus which you want because
- 46:02it's ecologically better or something.
- 46:04But exactly, you know, in terms of, in terms of what's better
- 46:07ecologically, you know, we need to, to look at serious large
- 46:11scale land sparing, which you can only get if you really
- 46:13tackle the, the livestock issue head on.
- 46:15Absolutely. So the only way around this and
- 46:17we got, I had a really good episode of the show where we
- 46:21talked to Bruce Friedrich from the Good Food Institute who just
- 46:23published a book called Meat. It is to move to plant based
- 46:28diets and meat alternatives with cell cultivation and so on.
- 46:33Because just insisting, as you suggested, that the world turn
- 46:36vegan or that Americans turn vegan or whatever.
- 46:38I mean, I, I eat meat and I know all of I know all of this and I
- 46:41still eat meat. Not, not not a huge amount, but
- 46:44enough that I feel bad about it. And you know, for me, it's a bit
- 46:47like being an alcoholic and constantly falling off the
- 46:49wagon. I mean, I've tried being vegan
- 46:51and I just just can't sustain it.
- 46:52So I love meat alternatives, the more kind of chewy and protein
- 46:56the better. And I'm really excited to see
- 46:59this, this whole kind of revolution develop.
- 47:03And you, you give us some examples in the book.
- 47:04I think you have cultivated chicken and cultivated salmon
- 47:06and things, but they seem to be taking an awful long time to
- 47:09reach the market. Cellular agriculture is is a
- 47:11tricky 1 to talk about, I'm sure.
- 47:14I'm sure Bruce gave you a lot of this if you've already if you've
- 47:18already spoken to him. But cellular agriculture is a
- 47:21very promissory technology. I mean, it's a technology that's
- 47:24not there yet. And I think that sort of hanging
- 47:27our hopes just on cellular agriculture is perhaps foolhardy
- 47:32or at the very least a long term bet.
- 47:35And the primary reason for this is because cellular agriculture
- 47:38emerged, unlike a lot of technologies, the a lot of the
- 47:42basic science wasn't quite done because it just wasn't funding
- 47:45for it. So sort of synthetic biology for
- 47:49food applications. And so while many of the early
- 47:51prototypes came out of government funded programs at
- 47:54universities, such as, you know, Mark Post's first burger, which
- 47:58was made at Maestricht University, the need for money
- 48:03to do the basic research really drove the industry towards
- 48:08towards venture capital. Venture capital as a source of
- 48:10money for doing basic science, which is just an awful way of
- 48:13doing basic science because venture capital wants returns on
- 48:16investment in the short or medium term.
- 48:20And so a lot of these, so hence all of these promises, hence,
- 48:24you know, we'll be having lab grown chicken by 2020, by 2022.
- 48:30And these prototypes come out and they're quite good, but
- 48:32they're not perfected and there are deadlines.
- 48:34And then there's this sort of, you know, through of
- 48:36disillusionment. And a lot of it has to do with
- 48:38the funding structures for science.
- 48:40I think it's a technology that was that was commercialized very
- 48:43prematurely. And I think now actually what
- 48:46we're what we're seeing is we're seeing a return to funding at
- 48:50universities. In a sense, you needed this
- 48:51first wave to show the viability of the product in order to
- 48:54convince funders to fund the the university research, right?
- 49:00And so now a lot of universities are picking this back up.
- 49:02This is in, you know, in China's agricultural development
- 49:05program. And so I think cellular
- 49:07agriculture, I think the basic science of, I mean all aspects
- 49:13of it, right from how to design bioreactors to growth media to
- 49:18scaffolds, all of this still has to be figured out.
- 49:21I think the technology is very promising.
- 49:22I think writing it off is foolhardy.
- 49:24I actually have pretty high hopes that it will succeed.
- 49:28But we're talking in the medium term.
- 49:29So I think if we're talk, but if I think if we're talking about
- 49:32dietary change and especially convincing meat eaters to eat
- 49:36less meat, other than just beating the drum of the
- 49:38environmental and ethical impacts and urging people to eat
- 49:40more plants, I think plant based meat alternatives is really
- 49:45where we need to focus. And really developing plant
- 49:48based meat alternatives that, you know, that really hit these
- 49:52notes of taste of mouthfeel, really giving consumers
- 49:57something as close as possible to what they need and doing it
- 49:59at an affordable price point. Will that solve everything?
- 50:02No, there are a lot of intangibles, including
- 50:06technophobia, including cultural attachments to meat, including
- 50:09sort of cultural opposition to plant based eating that I think
- 50:12have to be overcome. But I think within the the sort
- 50:16of range of tools needed to achieve dietary change away from
- 50:19meat, I think really good plant based alternatives have to be
- 50:22part of that, have to be part of that toolbox.
- 50:24Well, you're not wrong about the cultural opposition in Europe.
- 50:28We've got this ridiculous proposal in the European
- 50:32Parliament and and also from the Commission to remove any meaty
- 50:37terms from plant based labour. So sausage burger, I mean, so
- 50:42you wouldn't even be able to say not chicken or you know, chick
- 50:45star and anything which even implies a relationship to
- 50:48animals because supposedly consumers are terribly confused
- 50:51about all. Of course we know that's not the
- 50:52case at all. This is the livestock industry
- 50:54trying to make it more harder and harder for plant based
- 50:57alternatives to compete. Absolutely, because the
- 51:00livestock industry does not believe in the free operation of
- 51:03the market and they never have. Right.
- 51:06The livestock industry in every country relies on on government
- 51:11largess in many ways, be it be it subsidies, be it regulatory
- 51:16carve outs in the case of agricultural exceptionalism or
- 51:19now with this quite quite aggressive moves against both
- 51:22plant based and cellular agriculture on a regulatory pre
- 51:25empting of competition. Actually banning banning
- 51:28cultivated meat in several states in the US before it's
- 51:31even, before it's even the divan of isn't.
- 51:33It exactly right and all of which is a handout to to farming
- 51:37interests and to ranching groups.
- 51:39And I mean, but the same thing goes for Europe, right.
- 51:41So you have these, you know, in in Italy, the big Farmers Union
- 51:47called RETI, as far as we know is the primary actor pushed
- 51:50which pushed for the ban on the sale of cellular agriculture,
- 51:53which is currently not available anywhere in Europe, as far as I
- 51:56know on a band of its sale in Italy strictly to protect the
- 52:01business interests of livestock producers, right.
- 52:04And so, and in fact, since since we're on this topic, I think one
- 52:09thing which should be absolutely painfully obvious to everyone
- 52:12but somehow isn't when you talk about food, is that ultimately
- 52:14we need to think of all food producers as just businesses.
- 52:17Businesses pursuing their bottom line, which sometimes can lead
- 52:22to good outcomes such as a bounty of fresh produce and
- 52:28plants at your supermarket, and sometimes can lead to awful
- 52:31outcomes such as Craven special interests lobbying lawmakers to,
- 52:37you know, stymie the development of promising new technologies.
- 52:40And I think that. And you were sorry just to cut
- 52:42in, but you were defending the regulatory state.
- 52:45And one of the ways in which the incumbents can actually defend
- 52:49against innovation is through having this very burdensome
- 52:51regulation, which is why we don't get Impossible burgers in
- 52:54the UK or in or in the EU, because they're tied up in all
- 52:56of this regulation, particularly about the GMO nonsense as well.
- 53:00Absolutely right. But again, I mean the term the
- 53:02regulation is not a is not a neutral term, I think.
- 53:06I think regulation should be thought of as the result of
- 53:09legislation that is carried out in the public good.
- 53:11But as we well know, the public good is not always top of mind
- 53:14when when it comes to legislation, often because of
- 53:17lobbying by business interests. So when I say regulation the
- 53:21public good, I mean things like increasing minimum labor age on
- 53:26farms, I think doing away with maneuver lagoons, tightening
- 53:31animal welfare laws. But yeah, but absolutely
- 53:34incumbents can use regulation to do things like prevent fair
- 53:37competition, such as change language or interfere in the
- 53:41capacity of businesses to use language to communicate what
- 53:43product they're selling to to their consumers.
- 53:45And that's, and that's a real problem.
- 53:47And again, I think agriculture and farmer groups often punch
- 53:49far above their weight when it comes to political influence.
- 53:54And I think part of that has to do with this, again, with this
- 53:57quite universal notion that farming groups sort of
- 54:00represent, you know, the true whatever the true Italian, the
- 54:04true Brit, the true American. And so if you look at any
- 54:09developed Western democracy, agriculture is a very small,
- 54:13small piece of the GDP, right? And yet agricultural lobby
- 54:18groups often punch very, very much above their above their
- 54:23weight. And I think it has partially to
- 54:25do with this and partially to do with the fact that they're very,
- 54:30I hesitate to say this with, you know, with full confidence, but
- 54:35just from what we, from what we've seen, you know, we know
- 54:37this is the case in Eastern Europe, certainly the case in
- 54:39Italy. Agricultural groups make very
- 54:42easy allies for sort of an for populist movements and sort of
- 54:45an emergent populist rights right, which both will try to
- 54:50pass legislation in their interest, but also leads
- 54:54opposition politicians to pass legislation to placate these
- 54:56groups, lest they, you know, just sort of get them on side,
- 55:00lest they sort of lest they jump ship entirely to the populist
- 55:03right. And, and the interests who
- 55:05nobody seems to be fighting for, neither the farmer groups nor
- 55:08the high culture food is, is the interests of the very poorly
- 55:11paid agricultural workers, servers and fast food
- 55:14restaurants and so on. And you you give them a lot of
- 55:17space in the book, which I think is really, really different and
- 55:19also really a really important missing part of this whole kind
- 55:22of food system debate. Tell us why you, you know, why
- 55:26you decided to, to really focus on that.
- 55:28I mean, obviously it's, it's, it's such an important justice
- 55:30issue, but I'm trying to figure out why it is that that all of
- 55:35these liberal, liberal foodies don't seem to care how little
- 55:38people are paid in the food sector.
- 55:39Well, so I we decided to focus on it in the book because the
- 55:44aim of the book is to present an analysis of the food system, but
- 55:48also a vision for a better food system.
- 55:49And so we break the book down by thinking about food
- 55:52availability. So what food is produced in what
- 55:56quantities, how by whom? We then think about the
- 55:59sustainability of that production in the 2nd chapter.
- 56:01And then we turn to the question of access.
- 56:04So food access and food insecurity.
- 56:06And then we turn to the question of Labor because obviously labor
- 56:10is an absolutely central part of the entire food system.
- 56:13Oh, and then we turn to questions of nutrition last or
- 56:16food utilization. But I think labor is, is often
- 56:20overlooked if one views the food system through a very simplistic
- 56:24lens of sort of this magically for short value chain of farmer,
- 56:31the consumer, right, or sort of farmer intermediary consumer.
- 56:34But the fact of the matter is that you need labor to both
- 56:37produce and process and sell food.
- 56:40In the United States, you've got over 20 million people who work
- 56:43in food. Over half of those work in food
- 56:46service. So these are the sort of people
- 56:47who are making your burger or making your waffle at the Waffle
- 56:50House. You've got about 3 million
- 56:52people who work selling food in various forms, be it a grocery
- 56:56stores or a convenience stores, and you've got about 3 million
- 57:00people on farms. Among all those people, 8 out of
- 57:02the 10 worst paid jobs in the United States are in food.
- 57:05And the question is why? And there are two answers to
- 57:08this. One is basic economics.
- 57:10These are mostly jobs that, while highly skilled in the
- 57:14literal sense, are considered economically to be low skilled
- 57:17because a lot of people can do them.
- 57:20So employers can. I have a huge labor pool to
- 57:24choose from. It's very much a buyer's market.
- 57:26So they can depress wages, right?
- 57:28So there's a very high, there's a high the sort of supply of
- 57:32potential laborers. Yeah, I can.
- 57:33I can illustrate this. I'm paid a lot more now to sit
- 57:36around waffling on podcasts all day than I was when I used to
- 57:38work in McDonald's when I was 17 years old.
- 57:40Yeah, I mean similarly with me as a as a professor rather than
- 57:43someone who works in a bike shop in neighborhood.
- 57:46And so, so that's the first reason is the economics, but the
- 57:49second reason is legislation and the, especially in the United
- 57:54States, a very long term concerted effort by employers
- 58:00across industries, but especially the restaurant
- 58:04industry and the food service industry to depress wages in
- 58:08food service work. And so this means both
- 58:10agricultural work, but also serving work.
- 58:12And so you've got this. So you've got these millions of
- 58:15people who are really caught and this really unfortunate sort of
- 58:19confluence of 22 regressive currents, which is #1 the
- 58:24economics of the industry don't work for them and #2 legislators
- 58:28don't work for them. And So what we focus on in the
- 58:32book rather than just bemoaning the situation is how to address
- 58:36the situation. And very often it is not, you
- 58:38know, it's not the sort of liberal do bitters or certainly
- 58:41not liberal foodie writers who are championing not not just not
- 58:45championing this cause, but who aren't, who are getting results
- 58:48for these people? Who's getting results for food
- 58:51system workers or the food system workers themselves?
- 58:55And if you look at where people are organizing, I mean,
- 58:57historically people of course organized on on farms, right?
- 59:03Sort of, you know, people sort of know this movement of, you
- 59:06know, Cesar Chavez organizing farm workers, often migrant farm
- 59:10workers in California. But if you look at wins in other
- 59:13sectors, if you look at, for instance, fast food workers, the
- 59:16fight for 15 started with workers in New York City.
- 59:20You're. Fighting is what for 15?
- 59:22Oh, sorry, sorry, sorry. Yeah, sorry for your.
- 59:25This is very much the the book, the book center is on the United
- 59:28States. So a lot of I sort of just
- 59:30assume that listeners are in the United States and I apologize.
- 59:33So the fight for 15, for those unfamiliar, is a movement that
- 59:37started in the mid 20 teens calling for a minimum wage of
- 59:42$15, which was more than double the federal minimum wage.
- 59:46The federal minimum wage was 725, and I'm sure if you're
- 59:51sitting at home, you can just do the math.
- 59:53Getting paid 725 and living in a city like New York City, the
- 59:59numbers just don't work right. The numbers don't work for rent.
- 1:00:03The numbers don't work for food. There's a reason that so many
- 1:00:05people who work in food are also food insecure and rely on food
- 1:00:07stamps. And so the fight for 15 was
- 1:00:11organized by fast food workers. Basically calling for a $15
- 1:00:15minimum wage. You know, people don't remember
- 1:00:18it now, but there was a time in the mid 20 teens, the United
- 1:00:20States where major cities were ground to a halt by fast food
- 1:00:24workers protesting. And see, these people were
- 1:00:26getting dragged off the street. There were marches shutting down
- 1:00:29streets. And what these people wanted was
- 1:00:33dignity. They wanted a dignified life,
- 1:00:35right? They didn't say we don't want to
- 1:00:37work in fast food because it's somehow below us.
- 1:00:40They said we want to work in fast food if we get a food.
- 1:00:42System's broken. If we, they didn't say the food
- 1:00:44system's broken. They didn't say raise the, you
- 1:00:46know, raise the Waffle House to the ground.
- 1:00:48They said we want dignified work within the food system.
- 1:00:52And what's remarkable about the fight for 15 is how successful
- 1:00:56it has been, at least in some places, right?
- 1:00:59So for instance, when the fight for 15 started, Cuomo, who was
- 1:01:03governor of New York State, said it was an absolute non starter.
- 1:01:06Within a few years, he was the one phasing in a $15 minimum
- 1:01:10wage, right? Just because these people had
- 1:01:14their message is so clear, which is calling for dignified labor
- 1:01:17within the food system. They got progressive legislators
- 1:01:20on side, they got other social movements on side and they got
- 1:01:24the public on side, right. The other person might not think
- 1:01:28about how the person serving them at McDonald's burger is
- 1:01:30paid. But if that person confronts
- 1:01:32them and says, look, I'm getting paid like garbage to serve you
- 1:01:35that burger, do you think I should be paid better?
- 1:01:36The average person says, yes. So the fight for 15 was has been
- 1:01:40tremendously successful. Of course, it's not a pro
- 1:01:43unionization effort. It's a call for increasing
- 1:01:47minimum wages. So also in the United States
- 1:01:50we're we've been seeing, I think most visibly the drive to
- 1:01:53unionize Starbucks, which is a massive effort because it's just
- 1:01:58because of the nature of Starbucks franchises and the
- 1:02:00nature of the National Labor Relations Board in the US.
- 1:02:03We're talking about store by store organizing to.
- 1:02:08And Starbucks has fought back massively.
- 1:02:09Starbucks has spent more on lawyers than they would have
- 1:02:12spent in wages had they just had they just increased wages and
- 1:02:15allowed people to unionize, right.
- 1:02:17And they're also closing stores as allegedly as push back
- 1:02:23against unionization. But the, sorry, I, I could just
- 1:02:27sort of keep talking about these examples, but what I'm saying is
- 1:02:30that we need to look to workers themselves who are organizing
- 1:02:35for better working conditions, safer working conditions, more
- 1:02:38dignified working conditions, better wages, and let them lead,
- 1:02:43right? Because they're sort of the
- 1:02:44vanguard of improving the food system.
- 1:02:46A huge part of improving the food system is improving the lot
- 1:02:49of the people who work within it and the people who are doing
- 1:02:52that, you know, are not are not liberal food writers.
- 1:02:56You know, they're not liberal professors sitting at
- 1:02:59universities. They're the food workers
- 1:03:01themselves. And there are tremendous witness
- 1:03:03to be to be talked about here, right like the the book is not
- 1:03:06all doom and gloom because we point to particular when such as
- 1:03:10the massive increase in minimum wages.
- 1:03:13But, and I think, and I think people should support,
- 1:03:18especially in the United States should, should support this more
- 1:03:21more broadly, right, including things like doing away with the
- 1:03:24tip minimum wage. We talk about tip minimum wage.
- 1:03:26I think this is a little bit insider baseball so people can
- 1:03:29read about it in the book. And the last part of this I do
- 1:03:32want to mention is also the organizing by delivery riders,
- 1:03:35right? New York City alone has over
- 1:03:3760,000 food delivery riders. So people delivering for Uber
- 1:03:42Eats and Grubhub and what have you, whatever the the analogs
- 1:03:46are in the UK who are placed by these apps in this terrible
- 1:03:53situation where they're not employees, right?
- 1:03:56They're legally not employees. They're treated as independent
- 1:03:59contractors with the app as basically an intermediary
- 1:04:02between them and customers, which puts them in this really
- 1:04:05unenviable position of having to get all the gear they need.
- 1:04:09So they have to buy their E bike, rechargeable batteries,
- 1:04:12foul weather gear, and then they have to meet the very exacting
- 1:04:17timing standards and performance standards demanded by the apps
- 1:04:22in order to even keep their job right.
- 1:04:24So if you, if you missed, if you have late deliveries, if you get
- 1:04:27bad ratings, not just bad ratings from customers, but bad
- 1:04:29ratings from the app itself, you get less work.
- 1:04:33So many of these people find it hard never, never mind making
- 1:04:36the living wage, but just to recoup the costs of doing the
- 1:04:40delivery work and, and never mind the fact that these apps
- 1:04:44have also been caught, you know, stealing tips and so on and so
- 1:04:47forth. And so, and who was championing
- 1:04:50these people's interests? No one.
- 1:04:52And so in New York City, they organized, they, they made a
- 1:04:54group called Deliveristas Unidos, which means delivery
- 1:04:57drivers united. And they basically said, look,
- 1:05:00during COVID, the city would have starved without us.
- 1:05:02There were more delivery drivers than cars out on the streets of
- 1:05:05Manhattan. And they organized basically
- 1:05:08calling for a minimum wage, even though they were independent
- 1:05:11contractors, and other benefits such as less onerous and less
- 1:05:15dangerous delivery schedules. And they won, right?
- 1:05:19They haven't won everywhere this has been tabled, but in New York
- 1:05:22City, they won by getting legislators on side.
- 1:05:24And so these are all winnable. These are all winnable fights,
- 1:05:28right? And I think what we should want
- 1:05:29as citizens and as eaters is for the people who not just produce
- 1:05:33our food, but deliver us our food and sell our food and make
- 1:05:36our coffees, to be paid a dignified wage and to be paid
- 1:05:40living waved. I don't think it's, uh, you
- 1:05:42know, I don't think it's too much to ask, and neither do
- 1:05:44they. Well, I think that's a, that's a
- 1:05:46good stopping point and a real really important lesson.
- 1:05:49And I think if anything that people can take away from this
- 1:05:53is perhaps to talk a bit less about consumer health and
- 1:05:56Wellness and, and all of this stuff.
- 1:05:58And talk, think a bit more about, about the, the pay and
- 1:06:02the labour standards within people who for people who work
- 1:06:05within, within the food system. And of course, and of course the
- 1:06:07animals who provide the meat and the welfare issues that that
- 1:06:11come with the livestock industry too.
- 1:06:13But yeah. And I just want to say thank you
- 1:06:15so much. Just to remind people, the book
- 1:06:18is called Feed the People, Why Industrial food is good and how
- 1:06:21to make it even better, and I think it's out now.
- 1:06:23Is that right? It's out on February 17th.
- 1:06:27All right. Well, thanks again, Jan, for
- 1:06:29joining us on saving the world from bad ideas.
- 1:06:31I hope it goes very well with the book and best of luck with
- 1:06:33the rest of your work. Yeah.
- 1:06:35Thank you very much. Thanks for having me on.
- 1:06:40Thanks so much for listening to Saving the World from Bad Ideas,
- 1:06:42a Weplanet podcast. Weplanet's a movement of
- 1:06:45citizens and scientists dedicated to defending the
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