Latest / The Art of Costume Podcast / White Christmas
Transcript
- 0:06Hello and welcome to the Art of Costume podcast.
- 0:08I'm Elizabeth Joy Glass. And I'm the ghost of Christmas
- 0:11past Spencer Williams. You would be the ghost of
- 0:14Christmas Past. Yeah, is that usually the creepy
- 0:16one? Yeah.
- 0:17Yeah, the one that comes off like chains and, you know, like
- 0:21a ghostly figure. Yeah, yeah, yeah, the ghost of
- 0:24Christmas Future is also pretty creepy, but yeah, 'cause you'd
- 0:29be like, OK, let's go, Let's figure out what you did wrong.
- 0:33Yeah, If I were to go to the Christmas future, I would just
- 0:35be like, just so you know, like elections are going to go this
- 0:38way and climate change is going to cripple the economy and
- 0:41devastate our world's, you know, wildlife.
- 0:45And I would just, like, talk about the future.
- 0:47It's so much. We'd be like, oh, I can't, I
- 0:49can't do it. You would, you would depress
- 0:51them, yeah. Start showing them my my news
- 0:56feed. Yeah, they just feel like what?
- 1:01Happy holidays, Christmas nerds. Welcome to our holiday specific
- 1:07season finale, our fifth season finale.
- 1:10I'm so excited. I'm so excited.
- 1:13I'm so happy we're doing a Christmas movie again.
- 1:17We didn't. Yeah, we didn't for like a year
- 1:20or two, cause there aren't that. I mean, there's a lot of
- 1:24Christmas movies, just not a lot of Christmas movies that we want
- 1:28to talk about. Yeah, I mean, we did Elf, we did
- 1:32the Grinch, we did Jingle Jangle, we did a bunch of them.
- 1:35So we were kind of like, I don't know, I feel like maybe the
- 1:38costumers aren't into it as much.
- 1:39But then we start talking about cozy classics and I so I have
- 1:46this, this memory, if it's not even, it's not even like a
- 1:48distant memory. It's like 2 whole years ago.
- 1:50I went and visited my dad in Iowa and I was like in this warm
- 1:55bedroom with like a heated blanket and I kept falling
- 1:58asleep and waking up and I left. I think it was like Turner
- 2:01classic on or whatever. And White Christmas came on and
- 2:05I've never seen this movie before.
- 2:07And it was the part, you know, one of the multiple musical
- 2:10numbers. I sat up in bed and I was like,
- 2:12what is this? I really want to see this wife.
- 2:16I never seen this. So when we were talking about
- 2:19cozy classics, I texted Elizabeth.
- 2:21I was like, Hey, there's this movie that everyone talks about
- 2:24and I've never seen and it it's definitely cozy classic and it's
- 2:27a holiday movie. So I don't know.
- 2:29I felt like it hit the nail on the head.
- 2:30Sorry to My Fair Lady, we will get to you but.
- 2:34Yes, yes, no, you, you texted me, 'cause I hadn't started the
- 2:39slides that and you were like, hey, what if we did this?
- 2:45And I'd seen it like a million years ago in high school.
- 2:48And I was like, oh, that's a good Christmas movie.
- 2:50That's a good Christmas movie. Might as well make it a holiday,
- 2:54so. We might as well, especially
- 2:56when we have such a great team of actors.
- 3:00Costume designer Spencer, do you want to give us a summary for
- 3:04White Christmas? I Do White Christmas Bob Wallace
- 3:08and Phil Davis, 2 army buddies, become a top notch musical
- 3:12comedy team. After the while on the road in
- 3:15Florida, the stars become involved with two aspiring
- 3:18singers, the sister act of Betty and Judy.
- 3:22Despite some romantic complications between the
- 3:25couples, everything ends on a happy note when Christmas Eve
- 3:28brings rave reviews for the show and much needed snowfall.
- 3:32And that is White Christmas. It's such a it's such a cozy
- 3:38movie. And part of that is the
- 3:43costumes. Let's meet our costume designer,
- 3:47a classic Edith Head. You know, just a goat.
- 3:51Just the goat, literally. You will know her work from her.
- 3:59Some of her asking Oscar winning winning films such as The
- 4:04Heiress, Samson and Daliah, All About Eve, A Place in the Sun,
- 4:09Sabrina, The Sting and some of her not Oscar winning films like
- 4:16To Catch a Thief, The 10 Commandments and Funny Face.
- 4:20She didn't win something for a funny face, I could have sworn,
- 4:22but. I don't think so.
- 4:24Maybe she was. She could have been nominated.
- 4:26Yeah, I believe you. That's a lot to keep track of
- 4:29with this Edith Head. She got like 38 nominations in
- 4:34her life or something like. Speaking of, I would like to
- 4:37watch All About Eve on the podcast at some point next year.
- 4:41That's good. It's such a good movie.
- 4:42I watched it again recently. It's so fun.
- 4:46But yeah, Edith had the costumes of this film in particular I
- 4:51think are just so fun. You know, I love the holidays,
- 4:55but you know, I'm more of a Halloween person.
- 4:58Obviously. Yes, you are.
- 5:00And I tend to sometimes get frustrated with the typical like
- 5:04red and green or the Santa look to me just always feels done,
- 5:09you know, done over and over again.
- 5:11But the way that Edith had approaches film in the 50s, I
- 5:16don't know. It felt like some very
- 5:19revolutionary holiday costumes. Honestly, it was.
- 5:22It felt, it feels different. And to this day, it still feels
- 5:25timeless to me. It, it does feel very fresh in
- 5:30white Christmas, especially because like the 50s, this is,
- 5:33this is post World War 2. Like everybody's still kind of
- 5:38like getting back on their feet after the war and it this time
- 5:43period, the 50s and 60s, at least in America, it's very much
- 5:48where like our modern looks and ideas for Christmas were
- 5:53established. Like, people love a good like
- 5:581950s, like themed Christmas decoration or like, like my dad
- 6:05like collects vintage Santas. So it's definitely a time period
- 6:13that, at least for the States, really establish.
- 6:16Like, this is what it looks like when we celebrate Christmas.
- 6:20And I really think this movie, and especially that final
- 6:24musical number, has a lot to do with that.
- 6:26Yeah, yeah. Oh, that last musical number.
- 6:29It's a good one. Well, we have a lot of costumes
- 6:31to get into. Not a lot of behind the costume
- 6:34facts. I should have went to the
- 6:36library before. I'm very sorry, but it's the
- 6:39season finale, so I want to get some hot chocolate, cuddle up in
- 6:42bed, and let's just talk about some fun, glitzy, glamorous
- 6:46white Christmas costumes after the break.
- 6:53Hi, I'm Dan, who does all the magic behind the scenes.
- 6:56I wanted to say thank you. And if you want to support the
- 6:58show even farther, go to tpublic.com/user slash The Art
- 7:05of Costume, where you can buy a couple variations of our logo on
- 7:09T-shirts, mugs, and stickers. Also, be sure to leave a like
- 7:14comment and subscribe. And if you're an audio listener,
- 7:17leave us a Five Star Review and Apple Podcast.
- 7:20Now back to the show. Spencer, Are you ready to jump
- 7:29into White Christmas? I am especially I was not I was
- 7:34not expecting to drop into World War 2 torn battlefield.
- 7:40I know we start Christmas Eve 1944 and we are at a clearly a
- 7:52army encampment for the US somewhere in Europe they're.
- 7:56Like it's vague but it seems like hell.
- 7:59Yeah, it honestly, this first scene, I was like, oh, for a big
- 8:07musical of the time, they really made this first scene look
- 8:12depressing, which makes sense. But also I was like, oh, OK,
- 8:17like Christmas. And I'd seen it before.
- 8:18I'd forgotten about this. Yeah, yeah.
- 8:21And especially because this film is so heavily relies on color
- 8:25too. So I thought it was very
- 8:26exciting to kind of start with this very desaturated, you know,
- 8:31dark, like kind of lonely environment.
- 8:33So that as the color starts to come back into the film, it's
- 8:38it, it gets all very exciting. One thing that I love to learn,
- 8:40which I didn't know, this White Christmas, it was Paramount's
- 8:45first Vista Vision film. And I really feel like you get
- 8:49to see that with that first. I mean first scene, you see it
- 8:53throughout the film. It's just like those big,
- 8:56beautiful shots of this war-torn set.
- 9:00Even though it was very grim and dark, you really get to see it
- 9:03in all of its detail and no details left unturned with this
- 9:08World War Two set and the entire film.
- 9:10Exactly. And I love the desaturation
- 9:13'cause even we have our two main characters, Bob and Phil,
- 9:19they're like they're doing a Christmas number and they're
- 9:26dressed up as Santa. But it it's also very
- 9:30desaturated. Like all the Reds that really
- 9:33pop at the end just melt in in this first scene.
- 9:39Yeah, it's it's very funny. Well, funny and not funny.
- 9:44I thought it was funny. Donna set that.
- 9:45I'm like, obviously this is on the sound stage though, you
- 9:48know? So it's just, it's so fun to go
- 9:51back and see scenes like this. But you know, I'm obsessed with
- 9:56Bob and Phil. They're such a great duo.
- 9:58Being Crosby and Danny Kaye, they're just so fun.
- 10:02And honestly, this would pick up my spirits too.
- 10:07Yeah, absolutely. And I love how, like, they're
- 10:11only in the situation because Phil saved Bob's life.
- 10:16And it's like I you get the impression that, like, Bob was
- 10:19an entertainer also before the war.
- 10:22Oh yeah. Who had had some success, but
- 10:25then the two of them together after the war skyrocket to fame.
- 10:31I mean, they were hitting the ground running and all of their
- 10:34numbers are together together. So hilarious.
- 10:37They're always very dapper and put together.
- 10:40It's just like a classic look that, I don't know, it's just so
- 10:44much nostalgia in it. Absolutely, Especially because
- 10:48after the war we kind of get this like newspaper headline
- 10:53montage. All from Variety, by the way,
- 10:56which I thought was funny. Of their careers with like
- 11:01snippets here and there and they're becoming producers and
- 11:05we get to see them at their club act in Miami and they're just
- 11:11wearing like it. It looks so silly, but it's so
- 11:14fun. They it's like a barbershop
- 11:16quartet kind of look with like the straw hat burgundy.
- 11:21They're canes. And I was just like, OK, here we
- 11:24are, here we go. This is what I remember.
- 11:29The canes are hilarious. Bob is played by Bing Crosby.
- 11:34Of course, the Bing Crosby. And I just thought he was so
- 11:39great in this role as Bob, too. I mean, really, this is a pretty
- 11:43heavy hitting cast. Everyone's pretty fantastic.
- 11:46Yeah. His eyes though, they look right
- 11:50into your soul. I know they're so blue.
- 11:54And I think Danny Kaye alongside him, I was just like, oh,
- 11:58casting perfect. He's hilarious.
- 12:02We also get cause Phil just wants Bob to settle down with a
- 12:07wife for some reason. Yeah, he's very intent on it.
- 12:10She's so intent on it 'cause he's like, you're miserable,
- 12:13Obviously you need a woman 'cause that solves problems.
- 12:20Back then it did. Did it?
- 12:24Well. Did it, Spencer?
- 12:25That's what that's what the rule book said.
- 12:29Technically, yes. And.
- 12:32I am obsessed with the two dancers that Phil wants them to
- 12:37like take out for the night, especially with the girl.
- 12:42Oh my gosh, what did she say? It's mutual.
- 12:44I'm sure that's a good one and they just have such like classic
- 12:52showgirl looks. Oh, yeah.
- 12:54They're very beautiful. And you could tell.
- 12:56I mean, you know, Edith Head and her team had a had a good time
- 13:00with those two in particular. They probably were, you know, I
- 13:03wonder what other films does showgirl costumes might have
- 13:06been used in, but they're just so.
- 13:08Oh. We should check.
- 13:09Spectacular. So sparkly.
- 13:11Love the purple, of course. The purple with the green and I
- 13:15love she uses this look a lot of like this the body, the short
- 13:21like body suit with this like peplum skirt.
- 13:26Oh yeah, So like it looks almost looks like they're wearing a
- 13:29gown, but like, their legs are free to do these.
- 13:31Fantastic. You'd have had love that
- 13:34silhouette in this film. It's actually it's we're going
- 13:37to talk about again later, but it's it's my favorite.
- 13:41It is there a lot what is also there a lot in this in this film
- 13:46is Dior's new look also gets a bit of a showing in this.
- 13:51It's being developed and shown around the same time.
- 13:55So I think Edith Head was very much inspired by it and you can
- 14:00see it in our introduction to the Haines sisters.
- 14:06This fantastic. A lot of people are calling it
- 14:10turquoise blue but I always saw it looked like a very like light
- 14:15sky blue. To me it looks cerulean blue.
- 14:22OK. If we want to go there.
- 14:25All right, Well, there's cerulean blue dresses.
- 14:34It's got that cinched in waist. It's got that that big wide hip
- 14:41for the skirts with the T length.
- 14:43I'm just like, Oh yes they are. They are killing it fashion
- 14:48wise. Yeah, once you said that, it
- 14:50kind of clicked almost immediately.
- 14:52And like, this is definitely that silhouette that means that
- 14:56skirt is heavy. Oh yeah.
- 14:58I mean, that's holding them down.
- 15:01Plus they have these huge ostrich feather fans behind
- 15:04them, which that's that's a lot of feathers.
- 15:06As well that are dyed ombre blue and have gems like inside of
- 15:12them. Like we I we have big
- 15:19spectacular films now, we really do.
- 15:23But there was just something about those big studio films.
- 15:28Yeah. It it's, it's like, it's like
- 15:30the random almost like garish detail is just so cool.
- 15:36And to me, I feel like what it is, you know, after having just
- 15:39done Wizard of Oz and we watched some other like, you know,
- 15:43Cleopatra, Yes, Cleopatra, another one.
- 15:46Like, that's a perfect one actually.
- 15:48Like, between that and these other films we watched this
- 15:50season in particular, I feel like classic Hollywood studio
- 15:53films. They never knew when, like,
- 15:55enough was enough, you know, just more was more.
- 15:58And they would always complain about like, oh, we're going way
- 16:00over budget. And then you would look at the
- 16:03things they would do like, well, yeah, of course, because every
- 16:07single detail was thought of. And.
- 16:09You know, say what you want about the old Hollywood studio
- 16:12system, but I mean, they did it. It felt like they did it right
- 16:17because they always are Marino classics like this because the
- 16:20color, the fantasy, the detail, it was just always there and it
- 16:24was always taken to a different level.
- 16:26So, you know, that's why like someone like Edith Head is the
- 16:29goat because I mean, I just look at it.
- 16:32This was just costume after costume for a little Christmas
- 16:36movie. For a little Christmas movie,
- 16:39The studio system definitely had its problem, but it created some
- 16:43bangers. Yeah.
- 16:45And one of them is this musical number.
- 16:48Sisters with Rosemary Clooney is Betty Haynes, and we have Vera
- 16:57Ellen as Judy Haynes and they're just hilarious through this
- 17:01whole thing. They're so funny and so
- 17:04beautiful. Like just looking at their faces
- 17:07striking out. That's just like Hollywood
- 17:09glamour right there when you see.
- 17:10Absolutely. They're yeah, they're hilarious.
- 17:14Their costumes are funny to me. I really feel like they're,
- 17:17they're kind of like the soul to this movie.
- 17:19And they're actually not like in as many scenes as you would
- 17:23think when you see like the promo of it.
- 17:25They're in the musical numbers. I mean, Fiora Allen's basically
- 17:28doing backflips consistently through.
- 17:32Through the whole thing. And it's so funny because, you
- 17:37know, Danny and Bob have come because they're the sisters of
- 17:43an old Army buddy. So they're coming to see their
- 17:46performance. So after the sisters number,
- 17:50they sit down with them and I like you get the impression that
- 17:55like, yes, they're working, they're taking care.
- 17:57Like they're not doing poorly. Yeah, but they're definitely on
- 18:03the road all the time. But they somehow pack these two
- 18:08gorgeous just like evening gowns.
- 18:12Each suitcase can only hold 1 gown.
- 18:14Like I am low key obsessed with Betty's, like Violet, just like
- 18:26this gorgeous tall dress just for a casual sit down in between
- 18:30numbers. Like, come on.
- 18:32Yeah, and I was on the other hand of that, I was really in
- 18:36love with Judy's looks. She really has.
- 18:39Her looks were very inspired by to me, it felt almost like
- 18:44Chinese culture and her silhouettes, I don't know if you
- 18:46noticed, but she always was wearing like these high collars,
- 18:49stylized lines going down the center, even even in her like
- 18:54kind of like classic sheer looks To me, it's still has like a
- 18:57very like world like well travelled silhouette to all of
- 19:02her costumes as well too. She's the sister that I feel
- 19:05like has done a lot more travelling than, say, Betty,
- 19:08who's very Americana, very, you know.
- 19:14I. Mean housewife?
- 19:15Almost. Yeah.
- 19:17Yeah, Betty Stress is straight from Dior and I feel like Judy
- 19:23picked hers up, like maybe from someone who had travelled
- 19:29abroad. But you're right, that
- 19:31definitely has a much more cultural influences.
- 19:35Also for Judy, though, a lot of her dresses, they're a little
- 19:42more girlish, they cover up a lot more.
- 19:46And I think it's because she is the little sister and while she
- 19:53loves her sister, loves being part of their act, she is afraid
- 19:57like that she's holding her older sister back and kind of
- 20:02maybe wants to do her own thing a little bit.
- 20:05Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. Oh, I love these two costumes
- 20:08though too as well. When we get to see Bob and Phil
- 20:11get to play around with the with the girls props a little bit.
- 20:16Especially because like, the cops are after Judy and Betty
- 20:22because a landlord said they burned a hole.
- 20:27Something I even carpet. I watched that scene and I was
- 20:31like, wait, what's going on? I even had a Wikipedia.
- 20:34I'm like, can you explain what's happening 'cause I don't know.
- 20:37Yeah. And like Phil just like is like,
- 20:45oh, this is totally Betty is totally the girl for Bob.
- 20:50And he's like, all of a sudden trying to like, orchestrate how
- 20:54they can, like, he can get the two of them together.
- 20:58And part of that is helping them escape the sheriff.
- 21:02Yeah, Phil right now looks like the human.
- 21:07If if SpongeBob were to become a human, it would be Phil and the
- 21:11same. Stop.
- 21:12Yes it would, because they put on what they can of the sister
- 21:17costume. We're going to put up a side by
- 21:20side Phil and SpongeBob and you'll see what we're talking
- 21:23about. Oh my gosh, yes.
- 21:25But yeah, I love when the two of them do the sister number,
- 21:30especially because it seems like Bing Crosby is just having the
- 21:33time of his life in that moment. Totally.
- 21:37He's yeah, he's such a good performer and you could just
- 21:39kind of tell that he's really kind of game for everything.
- 21:42But they all end up at the ski resort cabin of their old army
- 21:49officer who is down on his luck. So they decide to bring their
- 21:58show to his ski resort to hopefully attract some business
- 22:02help him out. Because there's no snow in
- 22:05Vermont for the skiers. So all the skiers are canceling
- 22:08their reservations, no? It's a Christmas tragedy.
- 22:13It is a Christmas tragedy. They only have like what, like a
- 22:16week to Christmas and there's no snow.
- 22:21Yeah, this leads to this musical number.
- 22:24So this is a musical number I was talking about earlier when I
- 22:27woke up and I was like, what is this movie?
- 22:30The moment when you see Judy arise from the back of the room
- 22:35and that white like you mentioned, that silhouette that
- 22:39Edith had so loves in this film. It's very short cut, but then
- 22:42she has to strain peplum behind her that trails behind her with
- 22:47the bright red gloves. It is such a stunning costume,
- 22:51the way her arms move and that loved, and I'm walking through
- 22:55this crowd of dancers. It is a spectacular show.
- 22:59There's nothing quite like it. It really is.
- 23:03And I love Betty in this scene as well, because Phil and Bob.
- 23:12Yeah, Phil and Bob, they're, they're wearing like black and
- 23:17red, like not traditional Christmas, but it feels very
- 23:22Christmassy still. And then Betty comes out in this
- 23:26fully sequin black with red accent strapless gown, and she
- 23:33just looks gorgeous and she reminds me of a Barbie doll.
- 23:36I'm like the woman who created Barbie totally saw this because
- 23:41Barbie has a very similar iconic gown from around the same time
- 23:46and I'm. Like Elizabeth would know.
- 23:47She knows her iconic Barbie gowns.
- 23:49Yes, I do. I'm like, Oh my gosh, she's like
- 23:54a living Barbie doll in this number.
- 23:57Yeah, I, I love that. The like, contrast again, like
- 24:00how Betty tends to kind of, I don't know, like she works
- 24:03really well with Bob and Phil. And then Judy comes in and she's
- 24:07like the Satine of Moulin Rouge or whatever comes in.
- 24:10It's like, I'm going to command this entire stage and you're
- 24:14with like the boys act over there kind of.
- 24:16And so together, that's why they work so well together.
- 24:19They really do. And I love the background
- 24:22dancers 'cause we have the guys in these fantastic green
- 24:29tuxedos, especially the guy who's like a feature dancer in
- 24:35like a Grinch green tuxedo. And they're wearing these like
- 24:40bright red shirts, red gloves, and I'm just like, eat up head
- 24:45like how? How many candy canes were you
- 24:49eating while designing this number 'cause this is wild.
- 24:54It's like she must have like been on a sugar high.
- 24:57Yeah, and just seeing like all the other dancers too, it just
- 25:00feels like different variations of like gift wrapping paper and
- 25:04bows. Yes.
- 25:05I know it's not but like just seeing it from afar and that
- 25:08Vista vision like look, it just all looks.
- 25:12It all works so cohesively beautiful.
- 25:14Feels like the like wrappings underneath a tree.
- 25:16Yeah, especially the the women, their their headdresses look
- 25:20like big bows and then their their body suits almost each of
- 25:25them look like 1/2 of like a point set of flower.
- 25:29Like, it's very much like that, like like elongated petal
- 25:35silhouette, but things get dramatic.
- 25:40They do. At the ski lodge, really
- 25:42quickly, the boys are like, trying to figure out how to
- 25:47help, you know their old commander as best they can.
- 25:53And there's the snoopy housekeeper who keeps listening
- 25:56in and overhears some stuff, takes out a context, tells
- 26:02Betty. Oh, right.
- 26:04Which makes Betty think that the two of them are just like PO S s
- 26:09who are trying to use this opportunity to like make
- 26:13themselves look better to the rest of the world.
- 26:16It's literally a bad game of telephone.
- 26:18It's a horrible game of telephone and all of a sudden
- 26:21Betty's like, never mind Bob, I'm I'm not interested, even
- 26:26though we were making out last night.
- 26:32So her sister has the brilliant idea to get fake engaged to kind
- 26:40of force her sister to get back with Bob.
- 26:44Yeah, which to me, I was like, the math isn't math thing, but
- 26:47that's kind of what I, I gathered.
- 26:49I was like, oh, it's a, a phony engagement too.
- 26:52Oh, what's going on over there? Elizabeth just fell, even though
- 26:58she's sitting down. I was like slowly sliding down
- 27:04and I needed to needed to write myself.
- 27:08Yeah, that's a phony engagement that I mean, her job, her, her
- 27:13plan. Typically it kind of works
- 27:15actually. But Betty though, she another
- 27:19like very classic 50s silhouette, looking like Betty
- 27:25Davis over there a little bit with the pearls, while again,
- 27:29Judy is also very covered up, always has like her neck up
- 27:34covered, but lots of different, you know, movement and and
- 27:40pleats in her costume as well. I really love Judy's look in
- 27:44this scene. It's very ski lodge.
- 27:48And I love how it's very casually like, 'cause her, her
- 27:53and Danny announced their engagement at this cast party
- 27:58and she's wearing it's, it's like a, a white turtleneck
- 28:01dress. And it has this, I don't know if
- 28:04they were sequins or it's some sort of embellishment on the top
- 28:11that almost makes it look like Argyle.
- 28:14Yeah, like pattern a little bit. And it's like, it's so ski
- 28:18lodge. Like the white is very much, you
- 28:21know, oh, I'm gonna be a bride. We're getting engaged.
- 28:24Isn't that exciting? But Betty again, that gorgeous.
- 28:33I love it's velvet and I love it.
- 28:36Or I don't know if it's velvet. It might be a satine because
- 28:39it's it's not as like it probably is velvet.
- 28:43They went they would always go all out.
- 28:45So it probably is velvet. I didn't get good, too good of a
- 28:49look at it up close, but I did love Phil's, you know, kind of
- 28:54checkered print suit, though, that he's wearing for his
- 28:57engagement, though. I would actually wear that.
- 28:59I don't know if it looked good on me, but I'd give it a go.
- 29:02I think I I don't know if that particular check would look
- 29:06good, but I think a check would look.
- 29:09Yeah. Would look good on you.
- 29:10It's kind of like a Wednesday Adams type color.
- 29:13It's like not black. It's it's different Shades of
- 29:16Grey. It's like a bluish grey, which
- 29:21looks fantastic, but this is like Bettys last straw is her
- 29:27sister getting engaged and they have a talk like well, I guess
- 29:32there's no sister act anymore, even though Judy she's trying to
- 29:37be like, hey, you could like also find a man.
- 29:41Yeah, things get severe for Betty very quickly, and she has
- 29:45this sort of revenge dress #2 which is just absolutely
- 29:51gorgeous. She gets like a lounge singer
- 29:54almost act in New York and it just kills it.
- 30:03Like the rhinestone studded gloves, the back to that dress.
- 30:09Oh my gosh, with the big ass brooch.
- 30:12Yeah, it's gorgeous. She's killing it.
- 30:16And I love the mermaid silhouette.
- 30:18I used to be deeply obsessed with mermaid silhouettes when I
- 30:21was like, especially when I was in college.
- 30:24Really. Yeah.
- 30:25Which to me now I'm like, but like Betty's doing it right
- 30:30though, right here. Like this is how you do the
- 30:31mermaid silhouette via Edith Head.
- 30:34Like this Looks incredible. This does look incredible.
- 30:38And I was the reverse like in high school and like college, I
- 30:43hated the mermaid silhouette. I think because at the time
- 30:47there were a lot of really ugly prom dresses that were the
- 30:52mermaid silhouette. Like it's just there were a lot
- 30:55of dresses in the mermaid silhouette that were not cute.
- 30:59But this is, I'm like, I think this is what a mermaid is
- 31:02supposed to be. It's much more.
- 31:04This is how. You do it right.
- 31:05Yeah, it's a lot more subtle than like a lot of mermaids of
- 31:09the time. And she just, she kills it and
- 31:13Bob's like, hey. Yeah, hey, Remember Me?
- 31:18Hey I don't know what I did, I would like to fix it.
- 31:22I think what makes the merits successful is that it's paired
- 31:25with like, like you said, the back cut out is incredible.
- 31:29Yeah, paired with a different colored glove that's also
- 31:34jeweled. Yeah, that that's how you do it,
- 31:36right? Also like the proportion of
- 31:38things 'cause we I have her sketches up here and even in the
- 31:43sketch I don't love how the mermaid looks like the skirt is
- 31:48too like it comes in way too much in my opinion.
- 31:53And then it's like all of a sudden there's it looks more
- 31:55like what should be a peplum higher up and then like a
- 32:00mermaid. But then the end product is very
- 32:03graceful and flattering. Yeah, I think it went in the
- 32:07right direction because I too feel the same about looking at
- 32:10the sketch. But yeah, that's that's such a
- 32:13great. Even though Betty is, you know,
- 32:16scoring at this moment, her show is killing it though.
- 32:19I would go I would go see Betty's scoring show.
- 32:22Her, her show's killing it. I would also go see that and and
- 32:26she catches Bob's like late night appearance where she
- 32:32realizes like, oh, they're not trying to take advantage of of
- 32:38the in their old commander. They're just really trying to
- 32:42make sure he he doesn't go under.
- 32:46They're really trying to put together a very nice surprise
- 32:49event for. Him.
- 32:50Too, So we see Bob and Phil's old battalion, all the boys get
- 32:56back together, and it's this great, beautiful tribute.
- 33:00I didn't really realize we were watching such a patriotic movie
- 33:03when I turned it on, but, you know, it's.
- 33:05The 50s, of course it's patriotic.
- 33:08Yeah, but when I turned it on, I I didn't know that until I was
- 33:11like, oh, OK, World War 2. So it's, it's actually very
- 33:15touching. I I even teared up a little bit.
- 33:17I was like, oh that's very sweet.
- 33:20And then they paired off with this great send off number at
- 33:22the end though, and I was waiting for this 'cause I knew,
- 33:25I knew from all the promos. It was like there's a scene when
- 33:27they're in high glam Santa costumes.
- 33:31Yeah. And this does not get more high
- 33:34glam Santa than this very moment.
- 33:36No, no it doesn't. We have the boys in in matching
- 33:41red Santa suits with just like killer Red.
- 33:46I think it's like rhinestone and sequin, like snowflakes.
- 33:51Yeah, on it. Like not.
- 33:53This is also what I love like about these films.
- 33:56The guys are like also dressed to the nines.
- 33:59They are. I was gonna say Santa should
- 34:01take some pointers because I like the way that the trouser
- 34:04hits right above the boot. Yeah, it's very kind of
- 34:08European, actually. Yeah.
- 34:09So I'm like Santa. I don't know if there's like a
- 34:12different Santa in like Europe and one in the US or what.
- 34:16That makes sense. Yeah, I mean, that's how else
- 34:18you get around the world so quickly.
- 34:21I think European Santa should probably they they all the Santa
- 34:25should take this little tip so. They should, and Missus Claus
- 34:29could learn a thing or two from Betty and Judy.
- 34:33Like I love Betty's look in this scene.
- 34:38It's again that like Dior new look, cinched waist, full skirt
- 34:44to the floor. It's this beautiful satin and
- 34:48the muff and the sequins and the brooches and the everything.
- 34:53And some point to that, like, I love how you and I are so
- 34:56opposite Betty and Judy because me, I love that Judy's so
- 35:00avant-garde and she has this muff that's kind of like off
- 35:03shoulder a little bit, kind of like metrical.
- 35:07Yeah, that's cool. I'm like, OK, she's edgy.
- 35:10I like it. Edgy.
- 35:11Mrs. Claus. Yes.
- 35:13Yes. And I also like this is one of
- 35:16the like attention to detail things I love about old
- 35:20Hollywood is when you there's this great part where it's like
- 35:26we got Judy and Danny and Betty and Bob on opposite like sides
- 35:33of the Christmas tree. And there's this cute little
- 35:34ballerina dressed up in white and sequins.
- 35:38But Judy and Betty, they have these like white fur likes like
- 35:44over skirt swooshes and they go to opposite sides so that they
- 35:50they match on either side of the screen.
- 35:54Oh. My gosh, they do.
- 35:55I didn't even realize that I'm looking at it now.
- 35:58Like it's like that's like, why would you think about that?
- 36:03Yeah, those are the details. It's almost like it feels like
- 36:07Edith had was working almost like the production designer on
- 36:10this film at some points, the way that she was using costumes
- 36:13to build these different. Like earlier we talked about how
- 36:15I felt like we're building out the gifts under a tree and now
- 36:19she's building out like the curtain or the the skirt
- 36:23underneath the Christmas tree with their actual skirts.
- 36:26Absolutely. That's incredible.
- 36:28That's a I went. I didn't even catch that.
- 36:31No, it's so cool and it's an amazing number to end on with
- 36:37the snow coming down in Vermont. Everyone's happy, everyone's
- 36:41fulfilled. You feel kind of warm and fuzzy
- 36:45on the inside as a viewer because you just watched a nice
- 36:50Christmas movie, Spencer. It was so sweet, I loved it so
- 36:55much. Let's take a little break and
- 36:56get a hot chocolate refill and when we come back we will play
- 37:00our favorite games for the final time this season.
- 37:03Yes. All right, Elizabeth, I hope you
- 37:09got your hot chocolate refill, probably with some Bailey's or
- 37:14something in it if I know you. You know me.
- 37:21Gosh, such a great movie. Let's do our stitch rating.
- 37:25So cozy. I feel like.
- 37:28I feel like I could have almost even fell asleep a couple times
- 37:32watching this film because I was just so content and cozy, you
- 37:34know, like they have a fireplace on, have some hot chocolate
- 37:38watching White Christmas. That's just a vibe listening to
- 37:42these musical numbers. It was great.
- 37:44So I feel kind of weird giving this just rating because I don't
- 37:47love these just ratings to old Hollywood films because I'm
- 37:51looking at from different lens of, you know, they're so
- 37:54classic. So if I would have watched this
- 37:57in the 50s, I probably would have gave it A5.
- 38:00So that's what I'm gonna stick with.
- 38:02I'm going with 1950s Spencer, what I would have gave it.
- 38:06Understandable. Understandable.
- 38:09I am definitely. I'm giving this like a solid
- 38:14four. Yeah, 'cause this is a vibe.
- 38:17You're totally right. This movie is a Christmas vibe.
- 38:20Like it. It just is.
- 38:24This story's weird. Yeah, actually I'm going to
- 38:27downgrade to four. Also with you, 'cause I didn't
- 38:29understand what's happening half the time.
- 38:31I just knew I liked it. This story is they could have
- 38:34taken some of that musical number parts and like wrote the
- 38:40non musical number parts better. Yeah.
- 38:44Like I think that would have been a good trade off.
- 38:47'Cause when they were singing, we were all having a good time.
- 38:50It's when they start talking. I was like, wait, the landlord's
- 38:52mad about what now? I know, I know.
- 38:58I'm like, it would have cause like, yeah, no, it I, I'm not
- 39:03going to get into it. They could have made this make
- 39:06more sense. The script wasn't all the way
- 39:09there. Well, I I like the idea of like
- 39:12the surprise for the major at the end.
- 39:15Like I loved building up to that.
- 39:17But all the like random drama was like kind of like not fully
- 39:21baked yet. Yeah, that part made sense, but
- 39:27the the relationship drama, Yeah, the.
- 39:30Side stories, It just wasn't necessary.
- 39:32It was not hitting. It was not working.
- 39:35Well, like this is, it's the holidays.
- 39:37Just fall in love already. Yeah, get on with it.
- 39:40This is this is a 2 hour film, which I was actually surprised.
- 39:44I thought this was gonna be like 3 hours 'cause it's it's the
- 39:481950s. They made some long ass films,
- 39:51Yeah. And I'm like, I wouldn't have
- 39:54minded half an hour if it meant the story overall was better.
- 39:58Yeah, I've almost feel like they need to either need to commit to
- 40:02just going full musical or they need to align some of the story.
- 40:06But yeah, either way, still such an incredible film.
- 40:09I'm glad I got to watch it. Let's play our favorite game.
- 40:12One costume to rule them all. Are you ready?
- 40:14Hit it, Spencer, the one costume to rule them all.
- 40:24All right, so my costume is quite easy.
- 40:27Actually. I had to pick Judy's white high
- 40:34low look with the peplum train behind her when she arose from
- 40:39that riser during the musical number 0.
- 40:41Those red gloves? The red gloves I love.
- 40:45That's one thing I've been loving lately is gloves.
- 40:48Specifically red gloves. I've been I've seen him a lot in
- 40:51films lately. I know this one didn't come up
- 40:54come out so recently, but either way, it's such a look.
- 40:58It just feels so put together. The hair is right, everything
- 41:01down to the shoes are right, the jewelry, it's just perfect.
- 41:06And I honestly want to watch this film just because of this
- 41:09costume. So it was worth the wait.
- 41:12Definitely worth the wait. MY1 costume is the sister's
- 41:18costume. A duo.
- 41:21It's, it's just so fun. It's, it's so of the time.
- 41:28It's very recognizable. I also love like, it's a
- 41:31Christmas movie and it's like this number is not a Christmas
- 41:35number, but like the blue, the sparkle, the lace.
- 41:40It reminds me of snowflakes. Yeah, and I just, it's so much
- 41:45fun. And then how, you know, the guys
- 41:48take bits and pieces to do their own version.
- 41:52It's it's so fun. It's so fun.
- 41:55Reminds me of like a winter Peacock almost a little bit.
- 41:58It's like a winter, like a Peacock caught out in the snow
- 42:01or something. Absolutely and.
- 42:03With that, that doesn't just bring us to the end of this
- 42:05episode. That brings us to the end of
- 42:07Season 5 of the Art of Costume podcast.
- 42:10Elizabeth, what a year we have. Oh yeah.
- 42:14I mean, this year started with the fires and Pasadena and
- 42:18Altadena, if you all remember that I.
- 42:20Moved back out here. Yeah, Elizabeth moved to LA, We
- 42:25started the season with Wicked and we had Nos for Ratu around
- 42:29there also going all the way through Ward season and Sinners
- 42:34and I don't know, we've just done so much this year.
- 42:37It's and it flew by at the same time.
- 42:39Cleopatra One episode was an entire journey for us.
- 42:43I'm still talking about Cleopatra.
- 42:45We had we we're on YouTube this season.
- 42:48That's also new this year. It's it's been a year.
- 42:52It's been a year. What was one of your favorite
- 42:54episodes this year? That's so hard.
- 42:58I don't know, Cleopatra just like sticks out to me.
- 43:01That's so that's. Mine too, I really loved doing
- 43:04Cleopatra. I think because like, I knew I
- 43:08was like, ooh, this is gonna be fun.
- 43:09This is gonna like, I knew there was drama surrounding Cleopatra,
- 43:15but then we we found the podcast and I did my research and we
- 43:19were just like back and forth, like, oh, my gosh, this
- 43:22happened. This happened.
- 43:23Like, it was almost like we were watching a miniseries.
- 43:27Yeah. That episode might end it for
- 43:28you all on a Tuesday, but we were talking about Cleopatra for
- 43:32weeks after that episode. Yeah.
- 43:34We did our vampire month this year.
- 43:37Yeah. Which was fun deep diving into
- 43:40hot sexy vampires. We watched True Blood this year.
- 43:43Well, attempted to watch True Blood.
- 43:45I don't know if you all know this, but I only got through
- 43:47like three seasons. And you did not get far.
- 43:49Now my brain was exploding. I couldn't.
- 43:53I could do it, but I really wanted to.
- 43:55We discovered only lovers left alive.
- 43:58That that was a good one. We did a live episode this year.
- 44:03I did the sketch the screen event with HBO Max and
- 44:06interviewed 8 designers. That was crazy.
- 44:09That was incredible. Oh, we had on Sandy Powell this.
- 44:13Year we did. Oh my gosh, that was this year.
- 44:16That was this year. We talked about Shakespeare in
- 44:18Love and Orlando that I still get goosebumps when I think
- 44:26about the episode because I was so terrified to meet Sandy
- 44:29Powell just because she's, she's one of, she's a living legend in
- 44:33our field, you know? And Oh my gosh, we were
- 44:35complaining about the bird that wouldn't shut up outside our
- 44:38apartments. Yeah, she logged on.
- 44:42Yeah, she logs on. And we were like, Hope.
- 44:43I wish you all would have been on set.
- 44:45I mean, Elizabeth puckered up real quickly.
- 44:47Oh my God, she's in my living room.
- 44:51That's so scary. It was so.
- 44:54She was so lovely though. She was so cool.
- 44:58Yeah. I mean, we interviewed a lot of
- 44:59cool people this year. We also launched the Costume
- 45:02House, our sister podcast, which I should say, we're going to be
- 45:06going on a little hour holiday end of the year break for a few
- 45:11weeks. We don't have a comeback date
- 45:13yet, but it will likely be sometime in January.
- 45:16But the costume House of Spencer Williams, our sister podcast,
- 45:19will still continue next week after the the holidays.
- 45:25Before New Year's, we're going to have a Tron episode, Tron
- 45:29Aries with costume designer Christine Beaseland Clark, which
- 45:32Elizabeth actually interviewed Once Upon a time for her work on
- 45:35Star Trek Picard. I did.
- 45:38I did. I've never got to meet her.
- 45:40So now I got to meet her and she was so cool.
- 45:43And we have lots of more episodes coming up.
- 45:45And I'm sure you're all wondering where is the Wicked
- 45:49and the Frankenstein episode? It's on the tip of everyone's
- 45:53tongue. It's coming.
- 45:55It's. Coming.
- 45:56But with films like this, Oscar films, 'cause we all know that's
- 46:00probably where this is going. It's a longer timeline, so
- 46:04expect lots of returning back to Oz or Guillermo del Toro's
- 46:10messed up mind in the new year. Yes, everyone.
- 46:16If you want to send us your thoughts on White Christmas,
- 46:20e-mail us at theartofcostume@gmail.com.
- 46:24And as always, follow us on Instagram at the Art of Costume
- 46:27Pod TikTok at The Art of Costume.
- 46:30We're posting lots of great content there all the time.
- 46:32And it's probably too late for you to get a holiday gift, but
- 46:36still do it anyways. Head to the Art of
- 46:38costume.com/pod store. Shoot, text me.
- 46:42I'll. I'll drive it over to your house
- 46:43if you live within 5 miles of me.
- 46:46OK, it's. Very specific, yeah.
- 46:50And if you all maybe wanted to get us a little something for
- 46:54Christmas, you could leave us a five star text review on Apple
- 46:59Podcast or just a five star review on Spotify.
- 47:02Both help us so much and are greatly appreciated.
- 47:06Hey, that would make my holiday break.
- 47:08Same. Same honestly.
- 47:10Because I love reading nice things.
- 47:12And if that Elizabeth, congratulations to you on
- 47:17another fun, successful season. It was not without challenge
- 47:20this. Year, yes.
- 47:23But I'm proud of the work we did, and I'm just so happy that
- 47:27we have to get the that we get to share it with all of our
- 47:29listeners time and time again. And we appreciate all of you so
- 47:32dearly. We love you, costume nerds, and
- 47:35I'm excited for 2026, which sounds crazy to say.
- 47:39Sounds wild and. With that, happy holidays
- 47:45everyone. Take care of yourselves, don't
- 47:46drink and drive. Have a happy holiday.