Latest / The Overland Journal Podcast / Elspeth Beard: One of the First British Women to Motorcycle Around the World
Transcript
- 0:05Speaker 1: Hello, and welcome to the Overland Journal podcast. I'm your host,
- 0:09Speaker 1: Ashley Jordano, and today's guest went on a two and
- 0:14Speaker 1: a half year, three thirty five thousand mile motorcycle trip
- 0:18Speaker 1: around the world, and the kicker is it was in
- 0:23Speaker 1: nineteen eighty two to nineteen eighty four. Welcome Elsbeth Beard
- 0:27Speaker 1: to the Overled Journal podcast. I'm so excited to have
- 0:29Speaker 1: you here.
- 0:30Speaker 2: Thank you very much, lovely to be here.
- 0:33Speaker 3: That's so great.
- 0:34Speaker 1: So you took a nineteen seventy four bmw R sixty
- 0:37Speaker 1: six flat twin bike on this trip. You're in your
- 0:41Speaker 1: early ties, and I'm wondering, like, what were the building
- 0:44Speaker 1: blocks that led to the trip.
- 0:45Speaker 4: I kind of started riding bikes when I was sixteen seventeen.
- 0:49Speaker 4: I think I got my first bike when I was seventeen,
- 0:53Speaker 4: and it was just cheap and easy transport around London.
- 0:58Speaker 2: Wasn't you know. I had no idea at the.
- 1:02Speaker 4: Time that motorbikes were going to become such a sort
- 1:04Speaker 4: of important part of my life at all. But it
- 1:08Speaker 4: was a small, little one hundred cc Amahar And then
- 1:11Speaker 4: I got a little bit bored. I wanted to get
- 1:13Speaker 4: a bit faster, and so I brought myself at two
- 1:17Speaker 4: fifty and then I got a bit bored with that,
- 1:19Speaker 4: so I want to got a little bit faster again.
- 1:21Speaker 4: So then in nineteen seventy nine I bought my BMW
- 1:25Speaker 4: sixty stroke six, and that was quite an important moment
- 1:30Speaker 4: because I think that was the bike that I suddenly
- 1:33Speaker 4: realized the traveling potential of a motorbike. It was a
- 1:38Speaker 4: serious machine and I really felt for the first time
- 1:42Speaker 4: I could.
- 1:42Speaker 2: Go anywhere on it.
- 1:44Speaker 4: But again there was a time there was no thought
- 1:47Speaker 4: about doing any long trips or whatever. The first trip
- 1:51Speaker 4: I did was up to Scotland on my own. Then
- 1:53Speaker 4: I went around Ireland, and then in nineteen eighty the
- 1:58Speaker 4: summer of nineteen eighty I rode around Europe. So the
- 2:01Speaker 4: trips were getting, you know, slightly bigger and bigger each
- 2:05Speaker 4: each time. And then in nineteen eighty one I flew
- 2:10Speaker 4: out to Los Angeles and I bought an old seventy
- 2:12Speaker 4: five stroke five, again BINGMW, and I rode that from
- 2:17Speaker 4: the West coast to the well not quite the east coast,
- 2:22Speaker 4: to Detroit, where my aunt lived, and I left the
- 2:27Speaker 4: bike there and then she managed to sell it for
- 2:29Speaker 4: me a year or so later, and it was kind
- 2:33Speaker 4: of somewhere on that trip I thought, wouldn't it be
- 2:35Speaker 4: amazing if.
- 2:36Speaker 2: You could could ride around the world. And I didn't
- 2:39Speaker 2: even know whether it's possible to ride around I knew
- 2:42Speaker 2: nobody who had done it.
- 2:43Speaker 4: I didn't even know whether it had been done before.
- 2:47Speaker 4: I mean, this is all in the age before social media,
- 2:50Speaker 4: the internet or everything at your fingertips, where you just
- 2:54Speaker 4: find these things out. It was just and so I
- 2:57Speaker 4: don't know, just this crazy sort came in my head,
- 3:00Speaker 4: wouldn't it be amazing if you could ride around the world.
- 3:03Speaker 4: Not I am going to try, but just if you
- 3:06Speaker 4: could ride around the world. And then it was a
- 3:09Speaker 4: whole series of events that happened to me the following year.
- 3:12Speaker 4: So during all these small trips to Scotland, Ireland and
- 3:16Speaker 4: Europe and America, I'd started studying architecture. So I was
- 3:21Speaker 4: doing my first BA Honors in architecture, which is a
- 3:25Speaker 4: three year course, and it was during that time that
- 3:29Speaker 4: I met this guy and fell madly in love with him,
- 3:31Speaker 4: and then our relationship sort of finished about three months
- 3:36Speaker 4: before my finals. So I kind of found it really
- 3:40Speaker 4: hard to study and work and I was feeling very
- 3:43Speaker 4: broken hearted, depressed, and sort of as.
- 3:46Speaker 2: A result, I did very badly in my finals. I
- 3:50Speaker 2: got a very lousy degree.
- 3:51Speaker 4: I was an architecture here is like a seven year course,
- 3:54Speaker 4: so I had another four years to go if I
- 3:57Speaker 4: wanted to qualify as an architecture. So I think I
- 4:00Speaker 4: was thinking, do I do I want to continue on architecture?
- 4:05Speaker 2: Is it? Is it the right subject for me to
- 4:07Speaker 2: be doing? And I just.
- 4:10Speaker 4: Needed a break. I just wanted to get away from England.
- 4:15Speaker 4: I just wanted a distraction. Putt it like that, and
- 4:18Speaker 4: so I thought, let's see if I can ride my
- 4:21Speaker 4: bike around the world. And I know that sounds a
- 4:23Speaker 4: slightly kind of extreme thing to do for a distraction, but.
- 4:31Speaker 2: It was brilliant. I mean it worked, it worked, it
- 4:34Speaker 2: worked very well.
- 4:35Speaker 4: So and then I, you know, then I did whatever
- 4:38Speaker 4: I could do to prepare myself the best I could
- 4:41Speaker 4: in order to go. And again I had no idea
- 4:44Speaker 4: what I was doing, what I needed to do, what
- 4:46Speaker 4: I was what world I was going out into. I mean,
- 4:50Speaker 4: apart from America that obviously i'd ridden across the summer before,
- 4:54Speaker 4: but the rest of it was completely unknown, and I
- 4:57Speaker 4: just thought, well, I'll try I'll just see how far
- 5:01Speaker 4: I can get and.
- 5:04Speaker 2: See how it goes.
- 5:05Speaker 4: So I sort of I taught myself as much as
- 5:08Speaker 4: I could about my bike. I stripped it down and
- 5:12Speaker 4: we built bits of it, replacing all the gaskets and
- 5:15Speaker 4: the oil seals.
- 5:16Speaker 2: And everything I could think of.
- 5:18Speaker 4: That because by this stage my bike was already eighty
- 5:21Speaker 4: years old and had forty five thousand miles on her
- 5:24Speaker 4: when I started the journey, so she was a kind
- 5:28Speaker 4: of fairly well used bike right at the beginning.
- 5:31Speaker 2: So I thought, well, i'll.
- 5:32Speaker 4: Strip it down, I'll replace everything I can think of,
- 5:35Speaker 4: I'll learn about the bike, because I knew that I
- 5:38Speaker 4: was going to have to fix it. And then I
- 5:41Speaker 4: shipped it to New York and that's where I started.
- 5:44Speaker 5: Thanks to Hauntcok Dinapro Tire for supporting this week's podcast,
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- 5:54Speaker 5: take a close look at the Dina Pro MT two
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- 6:00Speaker 1: Incredible, that's like sort of a perfect storm for the
- 6:04Speaker 1: desire to travel is to get away sometimes and to
- 6:08Speaker 1: try to figure things out a little bit heartbreak. It's
- 6:11Speaker 1: like the perfect storm for the situation.
- 6:15Speaker 4: But also it was because the world was there to
- 6:18Speaker 4: be discovered. It's not light now where you can see
- 6:22Speaker 4: it all at the click of a button or whatever.
- 6:25Speaker 4: You know, the whole world was there and if you
- 6:27Speaker 4: wanted to see it, you had to get out and
- 6:29Speaker 4: see it. It's the only way and experience it. So
- 6:34Speaker 4: it was, yeah, it was, it was. It was the
- 6:38Speaker 4: perfect storm.
- 6:38Speaker 2: I mean, I've been riding for a certain number of years.
- 6:41Speaker 4: I was fairly confident, riding on my own everything, all
- 6:45Speaker 4: the events, and then that's it. I just started off
- 6:49Speaker 4: in you know, by flying off off to New York
- 6:52Speaker 4: where I picked up my bike, and that's where I
- 6:55Speaker 4: set off across the States.
- 6:58Speaker 1: So tell me walk us through your route. So you
- 7:00Speaker 1: went through the U, you know.
- 7:02Speaker 2: I went through the US. Well, I went up to
- 7:04Speaker 2: Canada briefly, just just to Niagara Falls, and then I
- 7:08Speaker 2: went and then it was cold and wet, so I thought, right,
- 7:11Speaker 2: I'm heading south.
- 7:12Speaker 3: Sorry about that.
- 7:14Speaker 2: Actually the route a lot of the time was governed
- 7:17Speaker 2: by the weather.
- 7:18Speaker 4: You know, I'm very much I don't like getting so
- 7:20Speaker 4: I then decided to head straight down south to New
- 7:24Speaker 4: Orleans and then I crossed the States through Texas, Arizona
- 7:28Speaker 4: and New Mexico, so through through to California, and then
- 7:32Speaker 4: from there I went to New Zealand then Australia. I
- 7:36Speaker 4: worked in Sydney for six or seven months because I
- 7:39Speaker 4: was completely broke when I arrived in Sydney. I had
- 7:42Speaker 4: no money left at all, so I got two jobs.
- 7:45Speaker 4: I worked as an architect's assistant during the day and
- 7:48Speaker 4: a and I was I just got some bar work
- 7:52Speaker 4: every evening. So I had to save as much money
- 7:55Speaker 4: as I could to get me home. And then I
- 7:59Speaker 4: went around Australia and Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and then I
- 8:04Speaker 4: tried to get through Burma but I couldn't because all
- 8:07Speaker 4: the borders were closed and I had to ride back
- 8:09Speaker 4: down to Malaysia to Penang where I shipped the bike
- 8:12Speaker 4: from Panang to Madras and then rode up to Calcutta,
- 8:16Speaker 4: up to katman Do in the Pool, and then back
- 8:19Speaker 4: into India, around India, Kashmir, Lay and Ladakh and then
- 8:25Speaker 4: through Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, Greece, Europe back to London.
- 8:30Speaker 3: So yeah, it's a long way.
- 8:32Speaker 2: It was a long way.
- 8:33Speaker 3: It's a long way.
- 8:35Speaker 1: What was going on in the world at that time,
- 8:37Speaker 1: like politically, you were noticing some of those things were
- 8:41Speaker 1: affecting your travels along the way.
- 8:43Speaker 6: Well, I think the most significant one was that was
- 8:46Speaker 6: traveling through through through Iran because the war was the
- 8:51Speaker 6: country was at war with Iraq, so the shah had
- 8:54Speaker 6: been kicked out about two years beforehand, and it was
- 8:58Speaker 6: strict Islamic rule and.
- 9:02Speaker 2: You couldn't really find out anything about the country at all.
- 9:05Speaker 2: It was just literally closed.
- 9:07Speaker 4: Tourists didn't go there, Westerners didn't go there, and yet
- 9:10Speaker 4: it was on my route. I had to go through
- 9:13Speaker 4: it in some way, so that was problematic. I mean,
- 9:17Speaker 4: Maggie Satcher was in power in England at the time.
- 9:21Speaker 4: Unemployment was very high, which is also one of the
- 9:23Speaker 4: reasons that I decided.
- 9:25Speaker 2: To I don't know, that wasn't much yet. I wasn't
- 9:29Speaker 2: really much yet.
- 9:30Speaker 4: I mean, there's always something going on somewhere in the well.
- 9:33Speaker 4: People say to me, no, it's much more dangerous.
- 9:36Speaker 2: Now, and I'm kind of going, well, it kind of isn't.
- 9:39Speaker 4: We're just more aware of it now because we get
- 9:42Speaker 4: twenty four to seven news now, which then you didn't
- 9:45Speaker 4: get twenty four seven years, so you didn't know about it, and.
- 9:48Speaker 2: What you don't know about you don't worry.
- 9:50Speaker 1: About, yes, And things are always shifting, So like, for example, Columbia,
- 9:56Speaker 1: when I told my parents were going to Columbia, they're like,
- 9:58Speaker 1: I'm sorry, what's happening right now? And yeah, people tourists
- 10:03Speaker 1: didn't go to Columbia at the time that they were
- 10:06Speaker 1: still referencing, but it had been many years later that
- 10:08Speaker 1: we went. So some places are opening up, some places
- 10:12Speaker 1: are not as open.
- 10:14Speaker 3: So it's like constantly shifting.
- 10:16Speaker 4: But also when you get there, you know, the only
- 10:20Speaker 4: accurate information you're going to find is it on the
- 10:23Speaker 4: ground when you're there, just by talking to people.
- 10:26Speaker 2: Exactly, you know, the West Coast, I wouldn't go anywhere
- 10:30Speaker 2: near there. Stick to the East coast and you'll be fine.
- 10:32Speaker 4: And that's what you do, And so there's no point
- 10:35Speaker 4: listening to any news. You've got to get there on
- 10:38Speaker 4: the ground, speak to people who are there, speak to locals,
- 10:41Speaker 4: and just find out and that's that's always the best
- 10:44Speaker 4: way to do it.
- 10:46Speaker 1: Yeah, And that rings true now and definitely obviously when
- 10:49Speaker 1: you did this trip too, So great advice, but I
- 10:53Speaker 1: was wondering when you went back to the US and
- 10:55Speaker 1: started the trip there and you were riding solo across
- 10:59Speaker 1: the country, but you had been traveling with someone else
- 11:03Speaker 1: before on the previous trip to the US. Yes, I
- 11:07Speaker 1: noticed a difference in the experience. Can you tell us
- 11:11Speaker 1: more about it?
- 11:12Speaker 4: Well, I did a bit, actually, I mean I found
- 11:14Speaker 4: I mean, America was a strange. It was obviously it's
- 11:19Speaker 4: such a huge country and the east coast of the
- 11:22Speaker 4: West coast north, so that that is so different. And
- 11:25Speaker 4: you know, it was, you know, on the on the
- 11:28Speaker 4: East coast when I arrived, it was did get the
- 11:31Speaker 4: sense that there was a slight anti motorcycle culture and
- 11:36Speaker 4: I think whether Easy Rider I think had come out
- 11:39Speaker 4: four or five years earlier, which didn't paint motorcyclists in
- 11:42Speaker 4: a very good light sometimes, and so we were all
- 11:46Speaker 4: tarnished with the same brush, you know, we were all
- 11:49Speaker 4: trouble and so you know, I did find it strange
- 11:55Speaker 4: when I would turn up at petro stations with my
- 11:59Speaker 4: helmet off before they could see I was a woman,
- 12:02Speaker 4: and they almost just wouldn't serve me. And then the
- 12:05Speaker 4: minute I took my helmet off, they rushed over to
- 12:09Speaker 4: you know, to serve me. So then somehow being a
- 12:12Speaker 4: female motorcyclist was less threatening than if I'd been a
- 12:16Speaker 4: male motorcyclist. And then when I opened my mouth and
- 12:21Speaker 4: they heard I was English, and that was even better.
- 12:24Speaker 4: So they were all incredibly klind and helpful of but
- 12:27Speaker 4: it was. And then as I moved more.
- 12:30Speaker 2: Westwards towards California, well, they're the whole motorcycle culture in
- 12:35Speaker 2: California as much. It's very different.
- 12:38Speaker 4: You know, the climate's more, I mean, a lot more
- 12:42Speaker 4: people ride bikes out there then anyway, I don't as
- 12:45Speaker 4: to say now, And so I found it a lot
- 12:48Speaker 4: more accepting of motorcyclists, but get strange reactions from people
- 12:55Speaker 4: all over the world that you would never really imagine,
- 12:59Speaker 4: if you know what I mean. It's and I don't
- 13:01Speaker 4: think you can pigeonhole it to a particular nationality or
- 13:08Speaker 4: a particular it's just people are different and people react
- 13:12Speaker 4: to you in.
- 13:13Speaker 2: A different way.
- 13:15Speaker 1: Yeah, and the culture at the time, like you were saying,
- 13:17Speaker 1: there was kind of this association in the US that
- 13:20Speaker 1: when you were traveling through there with your motorcycle gangs
- 13:25Speaker 1: or groups or it's intimidating, and you know, all of
- 13:28Speaker 1: those things, but then going there now or I don't know,
- 13:31Speaker 1: if you've been back since then and had a different experience,
- 13:35Speaker 1: or if you're traveling with a group or whatever, would
- 13:37Speaker 1: be a different different I.
- 13:39Speaker 4: Mean, I think definitely traveling in a group or certainly
- 13:43Speaker 4: with one other person, it.
- 13:45Speaker 2: Makes life a lot easier and a lot safer.
- 13:48Speaker 4: And I think then because I had very long hair
- 13:50Speaker 4: and I had a plat, so I had a plant
- 13:53Speaker 4: so they could see I was a female. After that
- 13:56Speaker 4: I cust on my hair off because.
- 13:57Speaker 2: It just made life easier.
- 13:59Speaker 4: So when I riding my bike wearing my helmet, everybody
- 14:03Speaker 4: assumed I was male, and that just made life a
- 14:05Speaker 4: lot easier.
- 14:07Speaker 1: Yeah, And as you continued through on this around the
- 14:10Speaker 1: world trip, well were sort of the reactions and did
- 14:13Speaker 1: they change from place to place like or was it
- 14:16Speaker 1: a mix of excitement and curiosity or kind of shock
- 14:20Speaker 1: and awe a.
- 14:21Speaker 4: Bit of everything, to be honest, I mean in the
- 14:24Speaker 4: Far East, I mean I really enjoyed traveling through through
- 14:28Speaker 4: the Far East because they they would always smile, and
- 14:32Speaker 4: they would always, i don't know, be really happy to
- 14:35Speaker 4: see me, and they just thought it was amazing. And
- 14:39Speaker 4: I think the women really liked seeing a fellow female
- 14:47Speaker 4: doing something like that, you know what I mean, I
- 14:50Speaker 4: think they they and so they would always give me
- 14:53Speaker 4: big smiles and pat me on the back and thumbs
- 14:56Speaker 4: up and all this kind of stuff because they were
- 14:58Speaker 4: really and they loved it.
- 15:00Speaker 2: India was completely different India.
- 15:03Speaker 4: I mean, the curiosity in India was quite you know,
- 15:07Speaker 4: you get I was surrounded by people, and I'm not
- 15:11Speaker 4: talking about just a handful.
- 15:12Speaker 2: I'm talking about fifty people. Every time I stopped, I'd
- 15:15Speaker 2: be surrounded.
- 15:16Speaker 4: By forty fIF fifty people and they were all men. Yeah,
- 15:22Speaker 4: I didn't you hardly saw any women on the streets
- 15:25Speaker 4: at all.
- 15:26Speaker 2: It was all men.
- 15:27Speaker 4: And I didn't feel it endangered or anything. They just
- 15:30Speaker 4: never seen anything like it. They'd never seen a BMWM.
- 15:34Speaker 2: I don't think I'd ever seen you know, you know,
- 15:37Speaker 2: a motifikeer that size before and then being ridden by
- 15:41Speaker 2: a woman was just kind of you know.
- 15:43Speaker 4: They just couldn't they couldn't understand what it was they
- 15:46Speaker 4: were looking at.
- 15:47Speaker 2: You know, it was this kind of complete bewilderment of
- 15:49Speaker 2: what they were seeing. So that was and that was
- 15:52Speaker 2: quite you know, to start with, it.
- 15:54Speaker 4: Was quite well, I wouldn't say funny, but you know,
- 15:57Speaker 4: but then after a while it did get quite exhausted,
- 16:00Speaker 4: and just every time I stopped, I had this constant
- 16:03Speaker 4: attention and being followed and curiosity and being stared at.
- 16:08Speaker 2: And you know, and I've been back to India since
- 16:10Speaker 2: and it's not like that anymore. It's you know, because obviously,
- 16:13Speaker 2: well now with the Internet, I mean, you guess a
- 16:15Speaker 2: bit of it, you get a bit of it, but
- 16:17Speaker 2: now with the Internet, and you know, in fact, they
- 16:21Speaker 2: can see everything now on their phone from all over
- 16:23Speaker 2: the world. I mean, I'm, I'm you know, they've I wasn't.
- 16:27Speaker 4: You know, they don't see me as a sort of unusual,
- 16:31Speaker 4: extraordinary thing anymore because they've seen.
- 16:33Speaker 2: It all before on the internet. So it just changed
- 16:37Speaker 2: all around the world. Every country was different. Yeah, and
- 16:41Speaker 2: just people, you know, as I say, people are It's
- 16:45Speaker 2: interesting how different people are around the world.
- 16:50Speaker 1: Yeah, it's yeah, why we do it partially, for sure.
- 16:54Speaker 1: It's so interesting and learning and seeing things you would
- 16:57Speaker 1: never see if you hadn't gone, so super interesting, rewarding,
- 17:02Speaker 1: and it's so fascinating to hear the differences between when
- 17:06Speaker 1: you did this trip and now. And you've been traveling
- 17:08Speaker 1: since that time. You've gone many trips, so it must
- 17:11Speaker 1: have been interesting. Has been interesting, I'm sure for you
- 17:14Speaker 1: to see the differences and how things have changed since
- 17:18Speaker 1: the early eighties.
- 17:20Speaker 2: Yeah, and I think now, I mean the main difference
- 17:22Speaker 2: now is that so many more women ride bikes, which
- 17:26Speaker 2: is just so many.
- 17:28Speaker 3: Yeah, it's so inspiring.
- 17:30Speaker 1: Like I see more than more women like riding motorcycles
- 17:35Speaker 1: than driving vehicles. I would say, like the vehicle overland
- 17:38Speaker 1: or there are more women motorcycling.
- 17:40Speaker 2: That's probably true.
- 17:41Speaker 4: And I think actually the state has more women percentage
- 17:45Speaker 4: of riders, and more women than anywhere else in the world.
- 17:50Speaker 2: I think. So it's not such a surprise when you
- 17:53Speaker 2: take your helmet off and you're a woman and everybody
- 17:56Speaker 2: just stopped whatever and just turns around and stares at
- 17:59Speaker 2: you if you're some kind of strange creature from out
- 18:03Speaker 2: of space. So all of that has gone. I mean,
- 18:05Speaker 2: that doesn't happen anymore. So things have changed.
- 18:09Speaker 4: I mean it's forty five years is a long time.
- 18:13Speaker 4: One would hope it has.
- 18:14Speaker 1: But yeah, great, I'd like to do some rapid fire
- 18:18Speaker 1: questions with you. Okay, we're going to start, So first,
- 18:21Speaker 1: most ingenious repair, Yeah.
- 18:23Speaker 4: I'm proud of fixing my horn because I didn't have
- 18:27Speaker 4: a soldering iron, so I got a Malaysian two cent coin,
- 18:32Speaker 4: cut it in half, and then I held it in
- 18:36Speaker 4: the ply as heated it up. Managed to find it
- 18:39Speaker 4: a bit of solder, and then I melted the solder
- 18:43Speaker 4: and I fixed the and I fixed the horn. The
- 18:46Speaker 4: other quite ingenious one was I was replacing a seal
- 18:50Speaker 4: that stopped the oil from my rear bevel getting into
- 18:54Speaker 4: my brake shoes, and you needed some special BMW tool to,
- 18:59Speaker 4: you know, to slide the seal over the whatever.
- 19:02Speaker 2: I and I used string in a plastic bag and
- 19:05Speaker 2: some washing up liquid, so that that was a good one.
- 19:09Speaker 3: Amazing.
- 19:11Speaker 4: I don't know all sorts of things, but I would
- 19:12Speaker 4: say the most most useful things that I carried was
- 19:16Speaker 4: why insulating tape and rubber band, and pretty much for
- 19:21Speaker 4: those three things, I could bodge and repair kind of
- 19:26Speaker 4: most things.
- 19:26Speaker 2: On my bike.
- 19:27Speaker 3: Nice.
- 19:28Speaker 1: Yeah, that's almost like a combination of the zip tie
- 19:30Speaker 1: like today's zip tie.
- 19:33Speaker 3: Unfortunately they didn't have those then exactly. Yeah, okay, cool.
- 19:40Speaker 3: Best food, best food.
- 19:43Speaker 2: I loved the food in Thailand.
- 19:47Speaker 4: Thailand, and I actually when I got into Turkey because
- 19:50Speaker 4: I hadn't eaten things like bread and butter, and I
- 19:54Speaker 4: hadn't had a I hadn't had some nice bread, crusty
- 19:58Speaker 4: bread and butter for ten months.
- 20:01Speaker 2: No more a year, oh my gosh, since I left Australia.
- 20:06Speaker 4: And I remember when I got to Eastern Turkey, so
- 20:10Speaker 4: I just couldn't stop eating this bread and butter.
- 20:12Speaker 2: I just eat bagets and bagets all day because I
- 20:15Speaker 2: just hadn't eat any of that.
- 20:16Speaker 4: So although it wasn't great, I mean it was, it
- 20:18Speaker 4: was lovely, but it just tasted extra special because I
- 20:22Speaker 4: hadn't had any for so long, so I can remember
- 20:24Speaker 4: that that was probably it Actually Thailand. I think the
- 20:27Speaker 4: food in Thailand that was fantastic because it all it's
- 20:30Speaker 4: all street food. I used to eat a lot of
- 20:33Speaker 4: street food and it was all instantly cooked hot.
- 20:36Speaker 2: I didn't get ill or fresh, and you know, it
- 20:39Speaker 2: was great.
- 20:39Speaker 1: It was really so good. Such good food in Thailand,
- 20:43Speaker 1: oh my gosh. And you're right, it's like fast, fresh
- 20:47Speaker 1: street food, delicious.
- 20:48Speaker 4: And it's cooked there. When you turn up, you say
- 20:51Speaker 4: on some of that and they just put it all
- 20:52Speaker 4: in a walk. It's like that, and then you eat it.
- 20:55Speaker 4: And it's just perfect, absolutely perfect.
- 20:57Speaker 1: Yes, no mystery things happen. It's not sitting out, you're
- 21:01Speaker 1: eating right away.
- 21:02Speaker 2: Perfect, exactly, exactly.
- 21:04Speaker 3: A worst illness, worst illness.
- 21:08Speaker 2: Worst illness was definitely India.
- 21:11Speaker 4: I mean I arrived on the shores of India and
- 21:14Speaker 4: I think I was ill for about a year. I
- 21:17Speaker 4: lost two and a half stone in weight. I got dysentery,
- 21:20Speaker 4: I got hepatitis. I was incredibly ill. I was incredibly
- 21:25Speaker 4: ill in it.
- 21:26Speaker 2: I mean the worst one was hepatitis, which actually I
- 21:29Speaker 2: picked up in India, but it didn't manifest itself until
- 21:33Speaker 2: I was riding through.
- 21:36Speaker 4: Riding through Iran. So I got hepatitis halfway through Iran.
- 21:42Speaker 4: But it takes like like three weeks from picking it
- 21:44Speaker 4: up to actually having the symptoms.
- 21:49Speaker 3: And then you were in right and you were on your.
- 21:53Speaker 1: Way to do border crossing and got quite ill. And
- 21:57Speaker 1: I can't imagine the strength and determination that that required
- 22:00Speaker 1: to pick yourself up and get in your bike to
- 22:02Speaker 1: be able to cross a border when you feel like
- 22:04Speaker 1: you're so sick.
- 22:06Speaker 2: Yeah, I was so ill.
- 22:08Speaker 4: I mean just those last two or three because I
- 22:11Speaker 4: actually got it in Isfahan, which is about halfway through
- 22:15Speaker 4: through Iran, and we were only given seven day transit
- 22:20Speaker 4: visas because tourists didn't weren't really allowed to visit the
- 22:23Speaker 4: country then, and so we had to ride four or
- 22:28Speaker 4: five hundred miles every single day just to do the
- 22:32Speaker 4: miles and get.
- 22:33Speaker 2: Out of the country within the seven days.
- 22:35Speaker 4: And bang in the middle of it, I've got hepatitis,
- 22:38Speaker 4: So Robert had to carry me down, put me on
- 22:41Speaker 4: my bike in the mornings, push me off, and I
- 22:44Speaker 4: just used to try and ride all day without hoping.
- 22:46Speaker 4: I didn't have to stop because I didn't have the
- 22:48Speaker 4: strength in my legs to hold the bike up. And
- 22:51Speaker 4: then got to the border with Turkey and I felt dreadful,
- 22:55Speaker 4: absolutely dreadful.
- 22:57Speaker 2: So that was definitely the worst, definitely the worst.
- 23:00Speaker 1: No, we will get back to Robert and who Robert
- 23:03Speaker 1: is in one moment. If listeners don't know who that is,
- 23:06Speaker 1: we'll get back to it after we finished our rapid
- 23:08Speaker 1: fire questions.
- 23:09Speaker 3: Next is highest high?
- 23:12Speaker 4: Highest high was definitely lay in Ladakh when Robert and
- 23:17Speaker 4: I fell in love.
- 23:18Speaker 2: Definitely ra and that was the highlight of the trip.
- 23:25Speaker 1: So you and Robert met on the road and he
- 23:28Speaker 1: was also riding his motorcycle.
- 23:30Speaker 2: Yeah, so we met.
- 23:31Speaker 4: He was the only other Overlander I met in two
- 23:34Speaker 4: and a half years, which just shows her then to
- 23:37Speaker 4: what they are now. We met in Katmandu, but we
- 23:42Speaker 4: agreed to meet up two months later because we he
- 23:48Speaker 4: because I wanted to go and see a part of.
- 23:50Speaker 2: India that he had already done, and he wanted to
- 23:52Speaker 2: get somewhere.
- 23:53Speaker 4: Else, and so we agreed because in those days, no
- 23:56Speaker 4: mobile phones, no way of contacting each other. So we
- 24:00Speaker 4: agreed to meet in at the General post Office in
- 24:05Speaker 4: Agra at two pm on the twenty ninth of June,
- 24:11Speaker 4: and we actually met and.
- 24:12Speaker 2: That was like two months time. So we just agreed.
- 24:16Speaker 2: We just agreed that the.
- 24:18Speaker 4: Time, the place and the date and whatever that we
- 24:22Speaker 4: met and we actually met up. We were both there
- 24:25Speaker 4: at the post office in Agra two pm on the
- 24:28Speaker 4: twenty eighth or twenty ninth of June or something.
- 24:31Speaker 1: And then from the specific time you're like two pm,
- 24:35Speaker 1: and all the things that had together to make sure
- 24:37Speaker 1: that you arrived at two pm sharp on that day
- 24:39Speaker 1: is incredible, I know.
- 24:41Speaker 4: And that was like in two months time. It was
- 24:43Speaker 4: literally it was two months time. And from when we
- 24:45Speaker 4: passed our ways in katman Do and amazingly we met.
- 24:50Speaker 2: Anything could have happened.
- 24:51Speaker 4: I could have had an accident, I could have held
- 24:54Speaker 4: up somewhere, his bike could have broken down. He might
- 24:58Speaker 4: not have been able to get there on time. So
- 25:01Speaker 4: many things could have happened. That meant one of us
- 25:05Speaker 4: didn't actually get there, but we both did, which was anyway.
- 25:08Speaker 4: So then so from there we traveled up through Kashmir
- 25:12Speaker 4: and Lay and Ladak together and then through through Pakistan
- 25:16Speaker 4: and Iran and through back to Europe.
- 25:19Speaker 2: And traveling with somebody else.
- 25:20Speaker 4: It was just completely it was it almost turned into
- 25:24Speaker 4: a holiday from like a survival thing.
- 25:27Speaker 3: It absolutely such.
- 25:29Speaker 2: A difference, such a difference. So yeah, that was great,
- 25:34Speaker 2: all right.
- 25:34Speaker 3: Next is lowest low.
- 25:36Speaker 2: The lowest low?
- 25:37Speaker 4: Well, I had several and I think the times I
- 25:40Speaker 4: found difficult were when I had accidents. I had a
- 25:44Speaker 4: sort of medical issue in New Zealand which I don't
- 25:48Speaker 4: really want to go into, but I think you have to.
- 25:51Speaker 2: Read my book exactly, but I.
- 25:56Speaker 4: Think accidents were tricky, and I think you know, when
- 26:00Speaker 4: you're injured and you're on your own and you have
- 26:04Speaker 4: to recuperate and fix your bike and get back on
- 26:07Speaker 4: it again and keep going.
- 26:09Speaker 2: I think those were the.
- 26:10Speaker 4: Times I really had to push myself to you know,
- 26:14Speaker 4: to continue, So they were probably the lowest. And I
- 26:18Speaker 4: am being ill, I mean it was. It's pretty grim
- 26:22Speaker 4: being ill when you're when you're on your own. Fortunately,
- 26:24Speaker 4: when I had the hepatitis, I was traveling with Robert,
- 26:28Speaker 4: so I had him to help me and look after me.
- 26:30Speaker 2: But when you're.
- 26:32Speaker 4: Really ill and you're and you've got nobody to help
- 26:35Speaker 4: you and nobody to look after you, it's pretty it's
- 26:39Speaker 4: you know, it's quite tough.
- 26:40Speaker 1: That's a lot. Yeah, that's yeah, a lot and scary.
- 26:44Speaker 3: I'm sure. Next up is best budget tip.
- 26:47Speaker 2: Budget tip. Oh oh my goodness. Hopefully leave with a
- 26:51Speaker 2: lot more money than I left with only I only
- 26:56Speaker 2: had two and a half thousand pounds. But saying that,
- 26:59Speaker 2: I say think, I think it.
- 27:01Speaker 4: Is important to leave and don't let things stop you
- 27:05Speaker 4: from leaving, and don't give yourself excuses why you can't
- 27:08Speaker 4: leave or I don't quite have the right bike, or
- 27:10Speaker 4: I haven't quite got enough money, or you.
- 27:12Speaker 2: Know, I didn't have the right bike. Really I had.
- 27:16Speaker 2: I had an eight.
- 27:16Speaker 4: Year old bike that had forty five thousand miles on it.
- 27:19Speaker 4: I had two and a half thousand pounds.
- 27:21Speaker 2: In my pocket and that was it, and I left,
- 27:24Speaker 2: and it kind of doesn't really matter. You'll work it out.
- 27:27Speaker 2: You'll as you go along, you'll work it out. You'll
- 27:29Speaker 2: get a job, you'll, you know, you'll, you'll replenish your money.
- 27:34Speaker 2: You know. The important thing.
- 27:35Speaker 4: Is to leave, and that's one of the hardest things
- 27:38Speaker 4: to do. So definitely try and be a little bit
- 27:42Speaker 4: more prepared. But then it's much easier now because you can.
- 27:45Speaker 4: I had to carry all my money with me in
- 27:48Speaker 4: a money bell I had strapped around my waist. I
- 27:51Speaker 4: mean I didn't have credit cards or I couldn't get
- 27:53Speaker 4: money from cash machines.
- 27:55Speaker 2: That it just didn't wasn't you know. I had travelers checks.
- 27:59Speaker 4: And I and I used to have to change money,
- 28:05Speaker 4: usually on the black market if I could, because you
- 28:08Speaker 4: got a much better rate.
- 28:10Speaker 2: And everything I had I carried on my waist in
- 28:15Speaker 2: my money belt. Yeah, I don't know, I think. I
- 28:18Speaker 2: mean I was very frugal as well. I was very frue.
- 28:22Speaker 4: I always liked to keep one thousand dollars in reserve
- 28:27Speaker 4: for an emergency, so I had my money. I actually
- 28:30Speaker 4: say before I left Sydney, I said I left with
- 28:33Speaker 4: six thousand, six thousand US dollars. But I had no
- 28:41Speaker 4: idea how much it was going to cost me to
- 28:43Speaker 4: get home. I mean, I had nothing, no reference point,
- 28:46Speaker 4: no one to talk to. I hadn't got a clue
- 28:48Speaker 4: whether I was going to get home with two thousand
- 28:50Speaker 4: get home with four thousand and ten thousand, have faintest
- 28:54Speaker 4: idea all I had to do.
- 28:56Speaker 2: I knew I had six or seven months in Sydney.
- 29:00Speaker 4: I had to work and save as much money as
- 29:02Speaker 4: I could, and then I would.
- 29:03Speaker 2: Just leave with what I got.
- 29:05Speaker 4: But I always liked to think that I had a
- 29:07Speaker 4: thousand that like a thousand of that was was like
- 29:10Speaker 4: a reserve. So if I had an accident, had to
- 29:13Speaker 4: stay in hospital somewhere around the world for a month
- 29:16Speaker 4: or something, I had that as my sort of backup fund.
- 29:22Speaker 2: I don't know just I don't know I was, but
- 29:25Speaker 2: I was very frugal.
- 29:27Speaker 3: I was very frugal for sure.
- 29:29Speaker 1: Good tips. Favorite piece of Moto gear.
- 29:32Speaker 2: Probably probably my leather jacket. Actually I wore that. That
- 29:36Speaker 2: was every day. I wore that.
- 29:38Speaker 4: It was a Lewis leather jacket, which I still got
- 29:42Speaker 4: and I can still wear it.
- 29:43Speaker 2: Which is even more amazing.
- 29:45Speaker 4: Wow, and that was probably my Yeah, that was probably
- 29:53Speaker 4: the because trousers that I just had jeans. I just
- 29:56Speaker 4: wore jeans, and you didn't have any of the riding
- 29:58Speaker 4: gear you have now, and they didn't make gear for
- 30:02Speaker 4: women either, so that even my mind jacket was made
- 30:08Speaker 4: for a man. And then I had Lewis leather boots
- 30:13Speaker 4: which were also sized too big, and just my Bell helmet,
- 30:18Speaker 4: which was good.
- 30:19Speaker 2: It was a good helmet, which I've still got as well.
- 30:21Speaker 2: I don't wear it anymore, but I've still got it.
- 30:24Speaker 3: Nice. What's your favorite piece of motive gear?
- 30:26Speaker 2: Now, I have lots. I'm very spoiled.
- 30:29Speaker 4: I have to say, I get these I get I
- 30:32Speaker 4: get these companies who give me a lot of gear.
- 30:35Speaker 4: I wear a lot of is it climb I think
- 30:38Speaker 4: you call it in America or clim k l I
- 30:42Speaker 4: M yep.
- 30:43Speaker 2: It's really nice gear.
- 30:44Speaker 4: And they make really nice gear for women as well,
- 30:47Speaker 4: So I like all of all of their gear is great.
- 30:51Speaker 2: I've got quite a lot of their gear.
- 30:52Speaker 4: I've got Bell Staff gear, I've got well, I don't know,
- 30:57Speaker 4: I wear different different outfits totally.
- 31:02Speaker 1: I love that great. What was the most powerful lesson
- 31:06Speaker 1: you learned from that trip.
- 31:09Speaker 2: That I could do anything, And how has.
- 31:13Speaker 1: That set you up for your life going forward? From
- 31:16Speaker 1: that time?
- 31:17Speaker 2: Everything? It completely set me off on set me down
- 31:21Speaker 2: the course I took for the rest of my life.
- 31:23Speaker 2: I mean, I you know, I've done and I think
- 31:27Speaker 2: it taught me that there was that it was good
- 31:30Speaker 2: to take risks.
- 31:32Speaker 4: And I think that's important. I think people sometimes an
- 31:36Speaker 4: hour always want to play it safe and don't want
- 31:40Speaker 4: to take any risks. And the best things that I've
- 31:46Speaker 4: done in my life are things that I took risks.
- 31:49Speaker 4: I stepped over the line and I took a risk.
- 31:53Speaker 4: And I mean, obviously it's got to be a gay
- 31:57Speaker 4: you know, you've got to weigh it up. But think,
- 32:01Speaker 4: I think, you know, you have to take risks in life.
- 32:04Speaker 2: Believe it.
- 32:06Speaker 4: You know that you can do it, that you can
- 32:07Speaker 4: do anything. And that's not that's not something that comes
- 32:11Speaker 4: It wasn't for me.
- 32:12Speaker 2: It was that was something I learned on my trip
- 32:15Speaker 2: that there wasn't a problem I couldn't deal with and
- 32:19Speaker 2: a problem I couldn't solve, and there was always another
- 32:21Speaker 2: way around it.
- 32:22Speaker 4: You know, you're going to just think out of the
- 32:24Speaker 4: box a bit, and and it just and also to
- 32:28Speaker 4: be adaptable, to be prepared to change your your plans,
- 32:33Speaker 4: your route, and just to survive.
- 32:36Speaker 2: And I, you know, and I learned a lot, you know,
- 32:39Speaker 2: a lot.
- 32:40Speaker 4: About myself, about the world, and yeah, it completely changed
- 32:44Speaker 4: my life.
- 32:45Speaker 5: Thanks to Hankoch Dina pro Tire for supporting this week's podcast,
- 32:49Speaker 5: head over to Expeditionportal dot com and join us as
- 32:52Speaker 5: we take a closer look at an impressive Jeep Diadiator
- 32:55Speaker 5: build from the Jeep Invasion event and explore the mountain
- 32:58Speaker 5: terrain around Pidgeon for Tennessee.
- 33:01Speaker 1: Those are really powerful lessons to learn it at such
- 33:03Speaker 1: an early age, and it's so incredible, Like your perspective changes,
- 33:08Speaker 1: as you've mentioned, like maybe things that you would think
- 33:11Speaker 1: that are a big deal, you don't really think they're
- 33:14Speaker 1: as big of a deal. Like when you got back
- 33:16Speaker 1: and bought a water you know, got a water tower
- 33:20Speaker 1: and put so much hard work and heart and soul
- 33:22Speaker 1: into it, and as an architect, like a powerful stuff.
- 33:26Speaker 1: And also you got your pilot's license, I.
- 33:29Speaker 2: Heard, yeah, and learning to fly helicopter.
- 33:36Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, yeah, the helicopter.
- 33:39Speaker 2: But I when I.
- 33:40Speaker 4: Got back and about two or three years later, I
- 33:43Speaker 4: bought this old Victorian water tower and no one had
- 33:47Speaker 4: converted a water tower the local council, and it didn't
- 33:50Speaker 4: have any permits or listed building consent, so basically you
- 33:54Speaker 4: can do anything with it unless they gave you.
- 33:57Speaker 2: You know, the permits and whatever to do it.
- 34:00Speaker 4: I remember, and I had to buy it auction, so
- 34:02Speaker 4: that was like, you know, you had to put the
- 34:04Speaker 4: money down and take the risk.
- 34:06Speaker 2: And you know, I phoned up the local council before
- 34:10Speaker 2: before the auction, and I said, you know, I want
- 34:12Speaker 2: to turn this WaterTower into my home.
- 34:16Speaker 4: What's the likelihood of getting change of use? And they
- 34:19Speaker 4: basically say, we will never give you planning. We will
- 34:23Speaker 4: never give you planning or list.
- 34:24Speaker 2: Of building consent because there were all these problems, you know,
- 34:27Speaker 2: fire and means of escape and overlooking and thermal properties.
- 34:32Speaker 4: And insuly, you know, all these technical problems. And I
- 34:35Speaker 4: can just remember listening to this person on the phone,
- 34:39Speaker 4: and I can just remember thinking, those are problems.
- 34:42Speaker 2: Being stuck in a desert with no water broken down,
- 34:45Speaker 2: that's a problem.
- 34:47Speaker 4: Dealing with some fire regulations to get out of a
- 34:50Speaker 4: water tower. That isn't a problem. It's a solvable problem,
- 34:54Speaker 4: but it's not something you can't you can't work around,
- 34:58Speaker 4: and you know and deal with. And so I just
- 35:01Speaker 4: remember after Phoco and I've bough fit and then I
- 35:06Speaker 4: did fight for a year and a half to get
- 35:08Speaker 4: the permissioned and they did turn me down, but then
- 35:13Speaker 4: appeal and I won on appeal. So I got there eventually.
- 35:16Speaker 4: But you know, totally, it's just believing that what you're
- 35:21Speaker 4: doing is the right thing.
- 35:22Speaker 2: And I knew it was.
- 35:24Speaker 1: And you're like, I've done this bureaucratic thing before I can.
- 35:27Speaker 1: I've dealt with visas and border crossings and all this.
- 35:30Speaker 1: I'll just apply the same sort of mindset to this problem. Yeah,
- 35:36Speaker 1: very cool.
- 35:37Speaker 4: I speak your language. We both speak the same language.
- 35:40Speaker 4: I mean a lot of the countries. I had a
- 35:42Speaker 4: whole language.
- 35:43Speaker 2: Problem as well. You know, I had a lot of
- 35:44Speaker 2: other problems.
- 35:46Speaker 1: Yeah, oh my gosh, And I wanted to talk to
- 35:48Speaker 1: you about So when you laughed or before you left,
- 35:52Speaker 1: people weren't that interested in the trip, like motorcycle magazines.
- 35:57Speaker 1: We'll talk about the response that you received too, and
- 36:00Speaker 1: then you'd go do the trip, this amazing thing, get
- 36:03Speaker 1: back home. And like many other travelers, I got the
- 36:07Speaker 1: impression from the book that you felt as though people
- 36:11Speaker 1: didn't really understand or weren't that interested in hearing about
- 36:14Speaker 1: the trip.
- 36:15Speaker 3: That's very relatable.
- 36:16Speaker 1: Yeah, you talk about your trip, but people can't conceptualize
- 36:19Speaker 1: it or don't they're like, yeah, okay, cool, like how
- 36:23Speaker 1: was it? And then that's the end. And then that continued.
- 36:26Speaker 1: And while you were on the trip, you had been
- 36:31Speaker 1: keeping a diary in journals and recording audio and micro
- 36:35Speaker 1: cassette tapes, and that sat in a box for thirty years.
- 36:41Speaker 1: My question is, take me through the progression of the
- 36:47Speaker 1: kind of like disinterest in the trip and the ad
- 36:52Speaker 1: to how many decades later and all of a sudden
- 36:58Speaker 1: you publish this book called Loanwriter.
- 37:02Speaker 2: Well that's a very yeah. I mean, the thing is
- 37:05Speaker 2: you've got to kind of understand. And I know it's
- 37:07Speaker 2: hard now to imagine a world with no social media,
- 37:12Speaker 2: no internet, no way of telling anybody or everybody every
- 37:17Speaker 2: day or hour or whatever, what you're doing, what you're eating,
- 37:21Speaker 2: where you're going. It wasn't like that then. It just
- 37:24Speaker 2: wasn't like that, and people traveled for completely different reasons.
- 37:29Speaker 4: And I mean, my journey was a very personal journey.
- 37:32Speaker 4: And when I got back in nineteen eighty four, I mean,
- 37:35Speaker 4: the only way then that you could get your story
- 37:38Speaker 4: told was to convince a editor of a magazine or
- 37:43Speaker 4: newspaper to print your story, put your story in print,
- 37:47Speaker 4: and then sell the magazine.
- 37:49Speaker 2: That was it. That was the only avenue you had.
- 37:52Speaker 4: And unfortunately the British press were not very encouraging to
- 37:58Speaker 4: women motorcyclists.
- 38:00Speaker 2: They were incredibly rude to me before I went, which
- 38:03Speaker 2: you know, I can understand I hadn't really done anything
- 38:05Speaker 2: very much. But anyway, so when I got back and
- 38:08Speaker 2: I thought, well I've done it, you know, they might
- 38:10Speaker 2: be a little bit more interested in but I think
- 38:13Speaker 2: it was just too much for them. They didn't almost
- 38:15Speaker 2: want to admit that a woman had written around the
- 38:18Speaker 2: world on her own, and so I was kind of
- 38:20Speaker 2: completely ignored, and I kind of didn't really, I mean
- 38:23Speaker 2: I was, I was a bit.
- 38:24Speaker 4: I mean, I suppose I was probably more hurt because
- 38:27Speaker 4: my friends and family didn't show much interest in what
- 38:30Speaker 4: I had done. But again, I think, as you say,
- 38:34Speaker 4: it's just something they couldn't relate to. They couldn't understand,
- 38:38Speaker 4: and you know, so and it's.
- 38:41Speaker 2: Boring for them.
- 38:42Speaker 4: I suppose to listen to my tales or whatever on
- 38:45Speaker 4: their own. They couldn't understand them, you know, they just didn't.
- 38:49Speaker 2: It was so far from their reference for anything. So
- 38:53Speaker 2: I just put everything in a cardboard box.
- 38:55Speaker 4: I nearly threw it away, actually, because I was moving
- 38:58Speaker 4: out of London. I no I know when I was
- 39:00Speaker 4: moving out of London, because my dad had just died
- 39:02Speaker 4: and I was moving out of London.
- 39:04Speaker 2: I'd just become a mother. Tom had been brought.
- 39:06Speaker 4: Tom was about six month months old then, and I
- 39:10Speaker 4: had just had so much on my plane. I bought
- 39:12Speaker 4: the water Toowl, which was a building site. I had
- 39:14Speaker 4: no kitchen, no water, and no toy that's nothing. And
- 39:17Speaker 4: I was going to have to live there with my son,
- 39:19Speaker 4: who was six months old. And so this box of
- 39:23Speaker 4: stuff from a trip that I did like ten years beforehand,
- 39:27Speaker 4: that nobody seemed to be interested or cared about, was
- 39:30Speaker 4: not really high on my priority list to kind of
- 39:32Speaker 4: try and save. So I nearly threw it away, and
- 39:36Speaker 4: I thought, nah, just keep it. You know, there might
- 39:38Speaker 4: be a few pictures in there or something I might
- 39:40Speaker 4: want to look at one day. So I kept it,
- 39:43Speaker 4: put it in a cupboard, which is where it stayed.
- 39:46Speaker 4: I actually stayed there for thirty five years. And then
- 39:50Speaker 4: it was a friend of mine who was speaking to
- 39:52Speaker 4: somebody at BMW in two thousand and eight or nine,
- 39:56Speaker 4: and he mentioned to this guy that I'd done this trip,
- 39:59Speaker 4: and so so Andy said, well, why don't you write
- 40:01Speaker 4: a short piece and get a few pictures and we'll
- 40:04Speaker 4: put it up on our international website. So that's that
- 40:07Speaker 4: was the very first time my story was told, or
- 40:13Speaker 4: two thousand and nine. So this went out on the
- 40:16Speaker 4: international website and it pinged all over the internet, which
- 40:19Speaker 4: I had no idea it was happening. There's one picture,
- 40:23Speaker 4: not the one on the front of that book, but
- 40:25Speaker 4: the one when I got home and I'm sitting on
- 40:28Speaker 4: my bike. There's one picture which has become a sort
- 40:31Speaker 4: of iconic apparently, but anyway, and that picture just went
- 40:35Speaker 4: viral everybody, and everybody will say, who was it?
- 40:38Speaker 2: She done? Anyway, So my story was retold and blah
- 40:40Speaker 2: blah blah.
- 40:41Speaker 4: And then it was about four or five years later
- 40:43Speaker 4: that this agent in Hollywood picked up my story and
- 40:47Speaker 4: they were looking for stories. Then this was in twenty fourteen,
- 40:51Speaker 4: and they wanted to buy the rights to my story
- 40:54Speaker 4: to make a film. So they flew me out to
- 40:56Speaker 4: Hollywood and I was kind of wined and dined and whatever,
- 41:00Speaker 4: and then but I kind of realized that actually the
- 41:04Speaker 4: first thing I needed to do was write my book
- 41:07Speaker 4: and have an accurate story of what actually happened to me.
- 41:10Speaker 2: And I hadn't looked at any of my diaries. It's
- 41:13Speaker 2: for thirty five years. I couldn't remember half the details
- 41:16Speaker 2: of it all. So I kind of said thanks, but
- 41:18Speaker 2: no thanks.
- 41:19Speaker 4: Came back to the UK and I thought, well, maybe
- 41:21Speaker 4: I should write a book, and then I spent the
- 41:24Speaker 4: next three years or two and a half years writing
- 41:26Speaker 4: a book. That's how it came about, and then it
- 41:29Speaker 4: was published finally in twenty seventeen.
- 41:32Speaker 3: And it's really detailed.
- 41:34Speaker 1: So I was wondering because you said, you know, sitting
- 41:36Speaker 1: there for thirty five years, but you obviously took pretty
- 41:40Speaker 1: detailed notes and diary entries and mix.
- 41:44Speaker 4: I mean, I give all the letters that my parents
- 41:47Speaker 4: sent me. They kept all of my letters. I had
- 41:50Speaker 4: tapes which I used to send home, but that was
- 41:52Speaker 4: only from Sydney onwards back home, so I had tapes.
- 41:57Speaker 2: I I was quite good at my diary for some
- 41:59Speaker 2: bizarre reas.
- 42:00Speaker 4: I think I was really bored in the evenings because
- 42:03Speaker 4: you didn't. I used to get into my call into
- 42:05Speaker 4: my tent at four or five in the in the
- 42:09Speaker 4: early evening because I never used to ride after dark.
- 42:12Speaker 2: And of course I didn't have a phone. I didn't
- 42:13Speaker 2: wanted to play with you don't have them to do,
- 42:15Speaker 2: so I used to. I used to write. So I
- 42:18Speaker 2: used to.
- 42:19Speaker 4: I used to write all my petrol and how much
- 42:21Speaker 4: and where I bought it, and and and I wrote
- 42:25Speaker 4: down where I stayed every night, and all the dates,
- 42:30Speaker 4: and all my diary, how much money I had left,
- 42:32Speaker 4: how much money I'd spent that week, and I mean
- 42:35Speaker 4: it was ridiculous. And also I kept at the end
- 42:38Speaker 4: of each stage, I would keep all my shipping documents.
- 42:42Speaker 4: I kept everything, all my paperwork, and at the end
- 42:45Speaker 4: of each various stages along the way, I put it
- 42:48Speaker 4: all in a brown envelope.
- 42:49Speaker 2: Send it home.
- 42:51Speaker 4: And I hadn't opened any of these envelopes for thirty
- 42:53Speaker 4: odd years that they just were thrown in this box,
- 42:56Speaker 4: you know, and my parents just kept them, and then
- 42:58Speaker 4: I just threw them in this I even kept ticket
- 43:02Speaker 4: stubs from temples that I went to in Thailand.
- 43:05Speaker 2: I mean, it was just bizarre the stuff I kept.
- 43:08Speaker 2: And I don't know why I kept it.
- 43:09Speaker 4: Honestly, why I kept it, I just kind of thought
- 43:13Speaker 4: I just didn't want to.
- 43:14Speaker 2: Throw it away. Yeah, I kept all this stuff, and
- 43:18Speaker 2: I mean it was a year just putting it all
- 43:22Speaker 2: in the right order and trying to work out where
- 43:25Speaker 2: I was and everything. And then from that the book came.
- 43:29Speaker 4: So it was a long process because I did want
- 43:32Speaker 4: it to be absolutely accurate the dates, the times, the places,
- 43:36Speaker 4: absolutely accurate to what I did.
- 43:39Speaker 5: Hankook Dinah pro Tire Welcome to you to visit Expeditionportal
- 43:43Speaker 5: dot com and enjoy a series of adventures from the
- 43:46Speaker 5: Cheap Beach Event in Florida, the Broncos Stampede and Jeep
- 43:49Speaker 5: Invasion in Tennessee, and the Off Road Expo in California.
- 43:54Speaker 5: Thanks Han Cook.
- 43:55Speaker 1: Was it an emotional journey going through all that stuff
- 43:58Speaker 1: and reliving.
- 44:00Speaker 4: Very emotional that writing a book was a whole nother
- 44:04Speaker 4: journey in itself.
- 44:05Speaker 2: And actually quite unexpected. I kind of laid quite a
- 44:08Speaker 2: lot of demons to rest.
- 44:11Speaker 4: My parents were very disinterested in my whole trip from beginning,
- 44:15Speaker 4: during it and at the end, and never actually never
- 44:19Speaker 4: actually saw it as any kind of achievement.
- 44:22Speaker 2: But they were just different. They were from a different generation.
- 44:26Speaker 4: So then the only sort sort of you know, achievement
- 44:30Speaker 4: that counted for anything was academic achievement, and riding a
- 44:34Speaker 4: motorbike around the world didn't count.
- 44:37Speaker 2: And I was quite hurt by all that. You know,
- 44:40Speaker 2: they they because they died.
- 44:43Speaker 4: I mean, my mom died in two thousand and three
- 44:45Speaker 4: and my dad died in nineteen ninety, so they went around.
- 44:49Speaker 2: So I felt quite free and liberated to write what
- 44:54Speaker 2: I did, and I mean not in a horrible way,
- 44:58Speaker 2: I hope, but.
- 44:59Speaker 4: It just it helped me unload a lot of stuff,
- 45:03Speaker 4: and it also made me Actually the key thing is
- 45:06Speaker 4: writing the book made me realize what the trip had
- 45:09Speaker 4: done for me, because I never really stopped, I never
- 45:13Speaker 4: really stopped to think about it.
- 45:16Speaker 2: You know. I got back, I was really depressed.
- 45:19Speaker 4: I felt very isolated, very lonely, really hard to adjust,
- 45:23Speaker 4: and nobody wanted to hear about what I'd done. I
- 45:26Speaker 4: went back, finished off my architecture. I hated every minute
- 45:29Speaker 4: of it, but actually hid myself in my basement, didn't
- 45:33Speaker 4: really go out very much. And then I gradually and
- 45:36Speaker 4: then I bought the water tower, and then that was
- 45:38Speaker 4: seven years of my life building the water Tower.
- 45:40Speaker 2: In the process of that, you know, I became.
- 45:43Speaker 4: A mother, I started my own architectural practice, so you know,
- 45:47Speaker 4: I just kind of moved on from my trip.
- 45:49Speaker 2: It just it just was look gone.
- 45:52Speaker 4: And so I never really stopped the thing. And I
- 45:54Speaker 4: think it was it was actually writing the book and
- 45:57Speaker 4: putting it all down. I realized, you know, I never
- 46:00Speaker 4: would have had the courage to buy the water Town.
- 46:03Speaker 4: I never would have taken that risk to buy the
- 46:05Speaker 4: water Tower. And without doing the water Town, you know,
- 46:09Speaker 4: I never would have probably started at my own architectural
- 46:12Speaker 4: practice because I won like five architectural awards for it
- 46:15Speaker 4: and all kinds of you know, everything kind of came
- 46:17Speaker 4: from that point, really, the trip when I got back,
- 46:20Speaker 4: everything I did from there and the rest of my
- 46:23Speaker 4: life and how I've lived my life and my attitude
- 46:26Speaker 4: to I don't know, just dealing with people and keeping
- 46:29Speaker 4: things in perspective, and you know, it's all it all
- 46:32Speaker 4: comes from that kind of grounding of that trip.
- 46:38Speaker 1: Big stuff, super powerful, and also that act of being
- 46:43Speaker 1: very honest and vulnerable and sharing your story through a
- 46:47Speaker 1: book and with so many people as well, and inspiring
- 46:52Speaker 1: other people in various capacities of their life too.
- 46:55Speaker 3: What has that been like?
- 46:57Speaker 2: It was odd because that's the other thing writing the book.
- 46:59Speaker 2: I think it's so.
- 47:00Speaker 4: Much time had passed between doing the trip coming back,
- 47:04Speaker 4: and then I'd like lived like ten other lives between
- 47:08Speaker 4: and then I wrote my book.
- 47:09Speaker 2: It was almost like writing it about somebody else. And
- 47:13Speaker 2: in many ways it made it easy to be open
- 47:16Speaker 2: and honest. And now I've never had a problem with,
- 47:20Speaker 2: you know, admitting making mistakes in life.
- 47:23Speaker 4: We all make mistakes, and that's absolutely fine. You have
- 47:25Speaker 4: to just acknowledge them, learn from them, and move on.
- 47:29Speaker 2: So it was it was a very it was, yeah,
- 47:32Speaker 2: it really it was extraordinary. How just.
- 47:38Speaker 4: It just made me realize, I say, how important and
- 47:42Speaker 4: pivotal that trip was for the rest of my life.
- 47:46Speaker 3: M M.
- 47:48Speaker 1: What has the response been like? Because you, as you
- 47:51Speaker 1: were saying, you did the trip, and then a long
- 47:53Speaker 1: period passed, and then you wrote the book and then
- 47:57Speaker 1: people started reading it, and I bet your life changed
- 48:00Speaker 1: after that as well.
- 48:03Speaker 2: I mean, I've been completely blown away.
- 48:07Speaker 4: I mean, I honestly didn't think I thought a few
- 48:09Speaker 4: people might be interested in reading it. I mean, honestly,
- 48:12Speaker 4: I really didn't think it would be received as well
- 48:16Speaker 4: as it has been, and it's just fantastic. I mean,
- 48:20Speaker 4: now it's changed my life all over again. I mean
- 48:23Speaker 4: now I don't do that much architectural work anymore recently
- 48:27Speaker 4: the last year or two, and now I just travel,
- 48:30Speaker 4: I do talks, I do book tours, I do I
- 48:34Speaker 4: you know, it's just fantastics. It's just completely different life,
- 48:40Speaker 4: which is brilliant. So something that changed my life forty
- 48:44Speaker 4: five years ago is now changing my life.
- 48:47Speaker 2: All over again.
- 48:48Speaker 4: It's kind of like I'm all the way back around again,
- 48:50Speaker 4: and now it's changing my life all over again.
- 48:53Speaker 2: Amazing when I don't really want to work anymore.
- 48:56Speaker 4: You know, I'm sixty six now, so I don't you know,
- 48:59Speaker 4: I'm kind of well, no, I don't like using the
- 49:02Speaker 4: word retire. I'm at that stage where it's a good
- 49:06Speaker 4: time to start doing different things.
- 49:08Speaker 1: Absolutely wonderful. I'm so stoked. I'm so stoked for you.
- 49:13Speaker 1: It's so exciting, and especially because I just finished the
- 49:15Speaker 1: book and so I felt like I was writing along
- 49:18Speaker 1: with you in your twenties. And then there's a little
- 49:21Speaker 1: bit more of like a wrap up a bit later
- 49:23Speaker 1: at the end, and so yeah, what I feel like
- 49:26Speaker 1: I've just been transported from the past into the present
- 49:29Speaker 1: and to see, you know, where things started and developed
- 49:33Speaker 1: and are going. It's exciting. So, yeah, you've done many
- 49:37Speaker 1: many interviews. Is there anything you wish someone had asked
- 49:41Speaker 1: you about?
- 49:43Speaker 2: Yeah, in the book, To be honest, it's a very
- 49:49Speaker 2: open and honest book.
- 49:50Speaker 4: As we say here walks and all good and bad. No,
- 49:53Speaker 4: I don't think so, I don't think.
- 49:55Speaker 3: Okay, great, that's great. Yeah, I loved it.
- 49:58Speaker 1: I've very like powerful, like I said, honest, emotional, but
- 50:03Speaker 1: also I don't want to say practical. I don't know
- 50:05Speaker 1: if that's a good word. But it was very much
- 50:07Speaker 1: like we're doing this and this, and I am doing this,
- 50:10Speaker 1: and I found it really lovely to follow along. And
- 50:12Speaker 1: I think it appeals to more than motorcycle riders for sure.
- 50:17Speaker 1: There are like big life lessons in there that I
- 50:19Speaker 1: think anybody can relate to. And yeah, the tenacity to
- 50:24Speaker 1: go do something that you've been dreaming about, Yeah, that's
- 50:27Speaker 1: a huge thing. But I'm wondering too, like who inspires
- 50:30Speaker 1: you and why?
- 50:32Speaker 2: Mostly I can't really thing anybody that inspired me. It
- 50:36Speaker 2: was just kind of in me to do it. I mean,
- 50:38Speaker 2: none of my family rode motorbikes.
- 50:41Speaker 4: My parents hated motorbikes, so they tried to stop me
- 50:44Speaker 4: from even riding a motorbike when I started riding when
- 50:47Speaker 4: I was seventeen. They actually hated by being doctors, you know,
- 50:52Speaker 4: they saw all these injured people coming in a and e.
- 50:57Speaker 2: So I didn't really and I didn't know of.
- 51:00Speaker 4: Anybody else who had done around the world for it.
- 51:03Speaker 4: It wasn't really. I was just kind of slightly in
- 51:05Speaker 4: my own little world. You know, this is what I
- 51:08Speaker 4: want to do, and this is what I'm going to.
- 51:09Speaker 2: Do, and I don't really care about what anybody else
- 51:12Speaker 2: thinks about it or tells me I can't, which is
- 51:15Speaker 2: what a lot of people did.
- 51:17Speaker 4: That's what I'm doing, and so I just kind of
- 51:19Speaker 4: ignored all the noise, you know, and just got my
- 51:22Speaker 4: head down and I just did it.
- 51:23Speaker 3: Does somebody or anybody inspire you today.
- 51:26Speaker 2: Not really, I mean, that's terrible, that sounds terrible. No, No, no,
- 51:31Speaker 2: I mean I've read. I mean I've read. Now obviously
- 51:35Speaker 2: information is a lot more available and you can find
- 51:38Speaker 2: out and you know, I've read about extraordinary women who
- 51:42Speaker 2: rode motorbikes down through Africa in the person Robert Fulton,
- 51:46Speaker 2: who was American and who rode his Douglas around the
- 51:49Speaker 2: world in nineteen thirty something. I mean, can you believe it?
- 51:53Speaker 2: I mean he was just completely on another planet. That guy.
- 51:56Speaker 2: Extraordinary man.
- 51:58Speaker 4: And so there are there are people now, but I
- 52:02Speaker 4: have to say most of them are before I did
- 52:04Speaker 4: my trip.
- 52:06Speaker 3: Yeah, I can relate to that.
- 52:09Speaker 1: Yeah, most of the people I've been in inspired by
- 52:13Speaker 1: as well.
- 52:14Speaker 4: I think I can just relate to them more. I
- 52:18Speaker 4: can relate to traveling before technology or even before before
- 52:23Speaker 4: before before you had bikes that didn't break down every day,
- 52:27Speaker 4: before you had riding gear that the you know, Robert
- 52:30Speaker 4: Fulton had a pit helmet for goodness sake, he didn't
- 52:34Speaker 4: even wear a helmet.
- 52:35Speaker 2: He was in shorts wearing it and wearing and wearing
- 52:40Speaker 2: a sun hat.
- 52:42Speaker 4: Yeah, And so that I can look at and think,
- 52:45Speaker 4: oh my god, you know that's extraordinary, that really.
- 52:49Speaker 2: Is absolutely And so I think now I look at
- 52:53Speaker 2: these and I know loads of people travel and I
- 52:55Speaker 2: think it's fantastic that people do. But you know, I
- 52:58Speaker 2: see them all on there, snazzy by that never break
- 53:00Speaker 2: down hardly, and all their great riding gear that's all
- 53:03Speaker 2: perfect and all that and the GPS and the this
- 53:06Speaker 2: and then that, and I I don't really see it
- 53:10Speaker 2: as I don't know, it's not the same.
- 53:13Speaker 3: It's different.
- 53:15Speaker 2: I'm not it's just different totally.
- 53:19Speaker 3: Yeah.
- 53:21Speaker 1: Good, Thank you Elsbeth for coming on the podcast and
- 53:24Speaker 1: chatting with me. Oh my gosh, it's been really fun. Yeah.
- 53:29Speaker 1: I appreciate your time. And I loved the book. And
- 53:32Speaker 1: if anybody's looking for it, it's called Loan Writer by
- 53:36Speaker 1: Elsbeth Beard. Yay, great book, highly recommend And where can
- 53:42Speaker 1: you find Where can we find you on the internet?
- 53:46Speaker 1: And what do you have coming up next? I heard
- 53:48Speaker 1: there's a Pakistan trip happening.
- 53:50Speaker 2: Yeah, I'm doing well.
- 53:52Speaker 4: I've been invited to lead a tour in Pakistan in
- 53:56Speaker 4: end of May beginning of June. And that's going to
- 53:58Speaker 4: be an amazing tour. It's all in the northern Mountain
- 54:01Speaker 4: to Pakistan. It's the most spectacular scenery. It really is amazing.
- 54:06Speaker 4: And it's with you know, a tour company who are
- 54:09Speaker 4: really good. They just do mainly do trips in Pakistan,
- 54:13Speaker 4: and so yeah, it's very well organized, very safe, and
- 54:17Speaker 4: it's great.
- 54:17Speaker 2: It's really good. So it would be good. And then
- 54:21Speaker 2: I'm doing a book tour.
- 54:22Speaker 4: Hopefully I'll be coming back to the States in September
- 54:25Speaker 4: October time, doing a sort of book tour in Ohio
- 54:30Speaker 4: and Maryland, Virginia and.
- 54:33Speaker 2: New York State. But we'll see. It's all early stages.
- 54:36Speaker 2: Early stages.
- 54:39Speaker 3: Great. And you have a great website. People can hop
- 54:42Speaker 3: on there.
- 54:43Speaker 4: And I've got a website which is just Elsabethbear dot.
- 54:47Speaker 1: Com, perfect and Instagram as well, and I'm sure that's
- 54:52Speaker 1: probably pretty easy to find. Yeah, awesome stuff. Well, I
- 54:56Speaker 1: look forward to following along with the of your adventures
- 55:01Speaker 1: and that Pakistan trip sounds incredible. But yeah, thank you
- 55:05Speaker 1: again so much for taking the time to chat with
- 55:07Speaker 1: me on the podcast today. It's been it's been wonderful.
- 55:11Speaker 2: Thank you, Thanks very much for having me.
- 55:13Speaker 1: And a shout out to the Overland Journal podcast listeners.
- 55:17Speaker 1: Thank you so much for tuning in to this episode
- 55:19Speaker 1: and we will catch you later