Latest / Specialty Matcha Podcast / Back to Basics
Transcript
- 0:00Hello and welcome to the Specialty Match Podcast.
- 0:02My name is Ryan, this is my Coho Zhangjun.
- 0:04Hello who also goes by Sam and we're the Co founders of Sanko
- 0:08Matcha products. We launched this podcast to
- 0:10discuss our learning journey much share startup stories and
- 0:13interview experts. Ryan from the Future here.
- 0:16Apologies for the late release. The whole team is actually in
- 0:20Kyoso Prefecture participating in some hand picking and meeting
- 0:26with farmers and some other industry people that are here
- 0:28for the 2025 harvest. So we have some exciting content
- 0:32coming down the pipeline and enjoy this episode.
- 0:36And before today's episode, Ryan sent me some very unfortunate
- 0:39photos of his encounterment in London of drinking some very
- 0:45interesting matcha. So what was it wrong?
- 0:48Can you describe those in detail since we cannot share photos?
- 0:51Yeah, no, this, the scene overall was quite interesting
- 0:54and kind of disappointing and kind of extra ironic considering
- 0:58the impact that the UK has had on tea culture in general and
- 1:04how it's a a culture that has historically cared a lot about
- 1:07tea and tea quality. And the way that much is being
- 1:09served there was actually kind of shocking.
- 1:12I kind of went in with low expectations because I think the
- 1:15way Matcha is being treated in the average Western Cafe is
- 1:19pretty bad. And so I was expecting something
- 1:21kind of a step above that. But I was pretty disappointed
- 1:24and it prompted quite a bit of thinking, especially because
- 1:28over half I visited 4 cafes, I think 3 out of the four where
- 1:33Japanese operated and where the people behind the counter were
- 1:36Japanese and speaking Japanese to themselves, which made it
- 1:39even more surprising. OK.
- 1:43That's that's interesting. So it so it was Japanese people
- 1:47who are the staff and operating the host.
- 1:49At a lot of these, at a lot of these places and the sequence
- 1:54that I did, and by no means could we call this like the
- 1:57status quo of matcha in London or the London matcha scene.
- 2:01You know, 4 is not enough. And I'm also not going to give
- 2:05away the names, at least not on this podcast.
- 2:07I posted them to my personal stories, which thankfully is
- 2:10impermanent because, you know, it's unfair to judge somewhat
- 2:14somewhere where you've only been once, especially when, you know,
- 2:19businesses can change and improve over time.
- 2:21So we don't want to call anyone out.
- 2:23But I do think there's a lot of learnings for the whole industry
- 2:25about what we were encountering there and things that we can
- 2:28improve upon. And Zheng Jin, you and I just
- 2:30recorded an episode on why matcha is so bad at cafes.
- 2:36And we had recorded that like a week before I went on this
- 2:38weekend trip to London. And it feels extra prescient now
- 2:43after recording that. And in some ways this episode I
- 2:46kind of want to be Part 2 of why is matcha so bad at cafes and
- 2:52what can cafes do to raise matcha quality?
- 2:55So for these cafes that you have been to in London, what are some
- 3:01of the things that really stands out to you and are coherent
- 3:06between cafes? Yeah.
- 3:08So let's set the scene a little bit.
- 3:10Three out of the four places that I went were Matcha
- 3:12specialty shops. Like Matcha was either in the
- 3:15name or it was some Japanese name.
- 3:18And it was a, they was a company that specifically focused on
- 3:22Japanese tea. And the other was a Japanese
- 3:25style pastry shop, which I had heard had a very good matcha
- 3:28program. And thank you, by the way, to
- 3:30the listeners who live in the UK or in London who gave me
- 3:34recommendations. And so I asked three different
- 3:36people for recommendations and kind of chose the one that were
- 3:40overlapping on a lot of people's lists.
- 3:42And one of them was a Japanese bakery, which has supposed to
- 3:45have a very good matcha program. So that's sort of the scene from
- 3:49a consumer experience, just being a consumer walking in
- 3:53objectively, you know, everything tastes pretty bad.
- 3:56The one caveat I will say is that I was shocked by the price.
- 4:01You can get an A matcha Americano or a matcha latte
- 4:04beverage in London. The price range was anywhere
- 4:09from 3:50 to 7 lbs, which is way cheaper than I was anticipating
- 4:17considering matcha prices both in Paris and in places like New
- 4:21York where I have a lot more consumer experience.
- 4:24So they're really targeting a price point that could be
- 4:27somebody's sort of everyday cup of coffee, so to speak.
- 4:30Interesting. 3 British pounds. That's close to four U.S.
- 4:35dollar. Yeah, about four U.S. dollars.
- 4:37OK. OK.
- 4:38That's not bad at all. It's like actually cheaper than
- 4:41some of the much Americano that I've seen even in Shanghai in
- 4:45China. Wow.
- 4:49It's not bad. So across all of these different
- 4:51places, it was actually a pretty unique set because the way they
- 4:53prepared matcha was so different.
- 4:55At one place they were measuring everything to order hot,
- 4:58whisking it in a bowl and dumping it in a cup.
- 5:01So like what we would consider like pretty normal preparation.
- 5:04One place we're using those electric vibrating frother
- 5:08things in a setup that looks very similar to Chacha matcha.
- 5:12If anyone's been to one of their locations in New York or LA, the
- 5:16the behind the bar service experience looks pretty
- 5:18identical. And then a place that was using
- 5:21syrups where they were had a pre made matcha mix and we're
- 5:26dumping that either into hot water for an Americano or into
- 5:29milk or some various syrups for some of the specialty drinks.
- 5:32So seeing all of that and then tasting all of that, there was a
- 5:35really large range of issues that I experienced.
- 5:39I had super clumpy matcha. I had matcha that had no foam on
- 5:44it. That was this murky lake color
- 5:46and pretty tasteless. That was actually the least
- 5:49worst that I had was the one with no foam at the Japanese
- 5:54patisserie. It wasn't that bitter and it
- 5:57didn't really taste like anything, which we actually
- 5:59ended up being kind of a good thing.
- 6:00I had a broken bamboo tine in one of them and one of them did
- 6:06have some foam but just tasted objectively horrible.
- 6:09This one was from from the concentrate and where they just
- 6:12dump it into some hot water, which I consider that to be the
- 6:15least intentional way of preparing matcha, let's say.
- 6:19Definitely the fastest. That was actually pretty
- 6:21incredible. I ordered it and I had my drink
- 6:22about 15 seconds later. So I kind of I understand why
- 6:26they do that. You kind of see that technique
- 6:28in a lot of these high volume cafes, like a lot of these chain
- 6:32cafes use that technique to compensate for, you know, really
- 6:37high bargain consumers. Yeah, and there might be a way
- 6:41to do it. Well, I've had some that are not
- 6:43bad. In Paris, there was a cafe that
- 6:45was doing it was serving Rocky's matcha, and that's how they
- 6:48served it. But unfortunately, my experience
- 6:51was less than stellar. They pulled out a large water
- 6:53pitcher that was about a gallon or about 3 liters, and it was
- 6:57only had 1/3 remaining, so it was 2/3 empty.
- 7:01The matcha had settled to the bottom.
- 7:03I was clearly the first person ordering this.
- 7:06They kind of gave it a light like swirl, but not really.
- 7:10I could tell there was still a lot of matcha still on the
- 7:12bottom. And they measured into a
- 7:14cocktail jigger and dumped it in a glass of ice water for the
- 7:17iced Americano. And it was not offensive.
- 7:20It was on offensive from a sensory perspective.
- 7:22Like it tasted fine, actually tasted kind of decent, but it
- 7:26was by no means exceptional. Like it was when I was paying
- 7:29€6. I was really expecting a little
- 7:32more care, especially for a place that didn't even have a
- 7:34line when I walked in. So that was kind of
- 7:36disappointing. I understand why they do it, and
- 7:39I think for a latte, when you're missing a lot of subtlety and
- 7:41nuance, that's getting when you're using much as an
- 7:44ingredient, maybe it can also work there.
- 7:46But within the context of an Americano boy, the one that I
- 7:49had in London, it tasted like really low quality nori or
- 7:54seaweed. It was very bitter, astringent,
- 7:57completely empty and at the same time like tasteless.
- 8:01Other than those notes, all of the sensory expression would be
- 8:05what I would call like negative attributes.
- 8:07Other than the green color, there was this very few things
- 8:10to rave about that product when it was consumed on its own.
- 8:14So that was very bad. It was very bad.
- 8:16Anything good that you have experienced in these places?
- 8:20Well, the best thing that I noticed is the demand.
- 8:24Oh my word, I had to wait 20 minutes in line for one of these
- 8:26places. Every place was busy, full of
- 8:28people. People love matcha and people
- 8:32love this matcha, which is very strange to me knowing kind of
- 8:36the flavors, expressions that are out there.
- 8:39And it just makes me so optimistic.
- 8:41If people are waiting 20 minutes for this, how long would they
- 8:45wait and how much would they spend for a product that is much
- 8:49higher quality, like the average quality that you would get in a
- 8:52city like Bangkok for example, or even in Japan?
- 8:56Also OK before I ask before I make this comment, are these
- 9:01places like new or they have been around for for a lot I.
- 9:06Think they're relatively new, all of the ones that I went to
- 9:09OK. So my.
- 9:11Comments. Multi generational, centuries
- 9:14old institutions, relatively new businesses.
- 9:18Sure, sure. But my comment is that this is
- 9:20also probably a little worrying because there are probably where
- 9:24a lot of first time matcha drinkers in all these places and
- 9:29they probably end up trying it once and never come back because
- 9:34you know, based on your description, a lot of these are
- 9:37objectively not a good product. Wow, so here's where it plays
- 9:41into a pretty negative stereotype around matcha lattes.
- 9:44So thankfully I went with my girlfriend for this weekend
- 9:47trip. She loves matcha lattes so I had
- 9:49a perfect tasting experience where we got the same thing as
- 9:53an americano and a latte. I really don't like drinking my
- 9:56coffee or tea with milk, but I got to taste them side by side
- 10:01and it in a latte format, especially if you're putting in
- 10:04cherry syrup or sakura blossom syrup like everyone was doing
- 10:08because it was spring or some of these others.
- 10:10I think it's just like a nice sugary drink.
- 10:12Like it's the same thing that like why everyone like likes
- 10:16pumpkin spice lattes or vanilla lattes or you know, brown sugar
- 10:20lattes. It's kind of a more mixed drink
- 10:23fascination where I think people are like the color.
- 10:27They like the fact that it's healthy, and it's in this big,
- 10:30Milky, sugary drink that is a little easier to appreciate.
- 10:34And the fascinating thing, Sam, every place I went to, everyone
- 10:40warned me. Are you sure you want to get the
- 10:44amacha Americano? Are you sure?
- 10:46OK. Do you realize there's no sugar,
- 10:48There's no milk. Are you sure it's just matcha?
- 10:51There's matcha and water. Are you sure?
- 10:53Interesting, so they they don't want you to consume it on its
- 10:56own? No, and I'm sure they're
- 10:59thinking, why is this guy ordering this?
- 11:02Like no one orders this. This tastes disgusting.
- 11:04That that was an interesting and actually I have a call to action
- 11:06about that a little later on in the podcast.
- 11:09Also, I I tried to have as much staff interaction as I could.
- 11:13So I went to be like, Hey, where are you guys sourcing your
- 11:15matcha from? How much matcha are you using?
- 11:18And usually it ranged between 2G.
- 11:20One of the place used 3 grams. It was actually interesting.
- 11:24Most of them were two. One of them gave me 1.2g.
- 11:29I felt like I was being cheated and I'll talk about that cafe in
- 11:33a little bit. But then I would ask like,
- 11:34where's the matcha from? Except for one place everywhere
- 11:37said Japan. This matcha's from Japan and I
- 11:40had to think about it, which was a little weird.
- 11:43One of the places said Fukuoka, and I was like, OK, that's a
- 11:47surprising answer. That was one of the Japanese run
- 11:49places, and that was also the only place that was offering
- 11:53single cultivar matcha. They had a much, much, much more
- 11:56expensive Oku Midori they were selling, but you couldn't get it
- 12:00in a drink. You could only buy it as powder.
- 12:02I see. I see.
- 12:04But I bet if I asked, I have little confidence that anyone
- 12:08would have been able to explain anything about that product to
- 12:11me just based on my interactions the current.
- 12:14Scene for me is still a little bit far away from, you know what
- 12:18we have been seeing in Bangkok, like a very professional single
- 12:22origin focused matcha scene. It's still very much.
- 12:26So it's. An extra bubble tea kind of
- 12:29concept. Yeah, maybe not quite bubble
- 12:31tea, but definitely more mixed drinks, mixed desserts.
- 12:34They also sold matcha granola. They sold matcha croissants,
- 12:37they sold matcha crepe cakes, They sold matcha sponge cakes.
- 12:40Like it's matcha, matcha, matcha, matcha, matcha, matcha.
- 12:42It's like it's like a theme store almost, which I honestly I
- 12:48find quite strange. Like I kind of understand why
- 12:50businesses do that, but imagine going into a coffee shop and
- 12:53everything was coffee themed. It's just like it's a little
- 12:56weird you. Know it's it's weird but it's
- 12:58also not like consider a lot of these people probably were
- 13:02getting introduced to matcha for the first time and this is like
- 13:05a very nice showcase like education Cultural Center for
- 13:10them to see the possibility of how much can be used as a flavor
- 13:15that's my. Take true yeah, yeah, yeah
- 13:17actually it's probably a good thing at this stage in the
- 13:19market especially where there's less consumer education for what
- 13:22is higher quality matcha, the concept of origin or cultivars
- 13:26or processing or shading days and all the things that can
- 13:30create a higher quality product are not known.
- 13:32So having it be a more versatile ingredient with that type of
- 13:35exposure, yeah, I agree it's probably a good thing.
- 13:38But I would love to see a day when you can go in and have
- 13:41something that actually pairs well with matcha.
- 13:44I always find some of the like like pairings a bit annoying.
- 13:48Like do you know what goes perfectly with the Smokey
- 13:51whiskey? Like BBQ, another Smokey thing.
- 13:55It's like very low level pairing ability.
- 13:59It's like, you know what you want with your matcha latte?
- 14:02You need matcha ice cream and a matcha cookie.
- 14:06I understand why businesses do that right now.
- 14:09And quite frankly, if we owned a cafe, we would probably do that
- 14:11too. But like, when you go get a
- 14:14coffee, you don't want a coffee like cake and a tiramisu And
- 14:19like all of this. Maybe some people do, but like,
- 14:22like, I don't know, like a cardamom bun goes really well
- 14:25with a nice cup of coffee. Like, you can get it.
- 14:27All of these Nordic roasters, like there's much more
- 14:31thoughtful pairings. It's, it's my only complaint.
- 14:33It feels like they lean into the novelty so strongly when you're
- 14:37a new matcha business that I find that it's very, there's a
- 14:40lot to be improved. Anyway, the core issues that I
- 14:44find across the board after some reflection is, is staff training
- 14:48is pretty bad. Both on the preparation side,
- 14:50making sure you don't have clumps, making sure the matcha
- 14:52is stored well, making sure it's staff can answer basic questions
- 14:56like where is this matcha from? It felt like no one was prepared
- 15:00to answer that question and typically they would look to
- 15:02another colleague and the other colleague would say Japan.
- 15:05Very strange customer interaction.
- 15:07Baseline product quality also really needs to be worked on.
- 15:10If you are not proud to serve the matcha as an Americano,
- 15:14maybe you shouldn't be serving it.
- 15:16The baseline product quality is very low.
- 15:19That is a good take. Probably just not even offering
- 15:22it as an option I think. Or you do it, and you do it
- 15:27well. Yeah, that's what that's that's
- 15:30what should be done. It's I think that actually
- 15:33should be the action standard for cafes.
- 15:36If the matcha you're serving, you would not be proud to serve
- 15:39as an Americano, maybe you shouldn't be serving it.
- 15:42Or you have two choices. You have one that's to be used
- 15:46as an ingredient in a latte or some sort of mixed drink with
- 15:49like strawberry matcha latte, for example.
- 15:52And then you have one that can be used as an Americano.
- 15:55Doesn't taste disgusting. That someone wouldn't be
- 15:58embarrassed and say, Are you sure?
- 16:00You realize that there's no milk, there's no sugar.
- 16:02Are you sure you don't want a little bit of milk?
- 16:04I was asked that, so it's I think that'd be a great call to
- 16:08action for anyone listening. Bad preparation technique is #3
- 16:12it there was, I had this very strange experience.
- 16:15The last place that I went to, it's felt like they were doing
- 16:18everything right. They had two matcha products and
- 16:20they had a premium one and a normal 1.
- 16:22So I said I'd like the premium one is an Americano, please.
- 16:25And they put it on a scale and they had a special can and it
- 16:28was a special area actually for the premium matcha.
- 16:30And the whisk wasn't hydrated. And I could tell by looking at
- 16:34the station that people don't order this very often.
- 16:36So the the whisk wasn't hydrated.
- 16:38It looked like it hadn't been used that day.
- 16:40They put the scale down and the person preparing it scoops and
- 16:44two scoops of matcha and it's 1.2g.
- 16:47But she didn't even look at the weight.
- 16:50So she just did 2 scoops and then she took some hot water
- 16:55from like a little tiny cup, filled it up and dumped it in
- 17:00and didn't look at the weight. This scale, it was like
- 17:04measurement theater. The scale was there, it was on,
- 17:08but it wasn't used in any way whatsoever.
- 17:13It was complete. You know, it's like, you know,
- 17:15they talk about security theater at the airports and in the
- 17:19United States where like you go through this whole rigmarole of
- 17:23like taking your laptop off out and your shoes off and it's like
- 17:27it's to make you feel safe like that they're doing something it
- 17:32it was really like measurement theater, which was very bizarre.
- 17:36They didn't sift the tea, they whisked it.
- 17:39There was some foam. So I was pretty impressed by the
- 17:41foam. But by the time I got to the
- 17:43bottom of my cup, I felt even more cheated because not only
- 17:46did they use 1.2g and charged me more than £5 for this drink,
- 17:50which is Hwy. robbery, but there were tons of clumps at the
- 17:53bottom. So there was a lot that I wasn't
- 17:55even consuming because they were still in the form of clumps and
- 17:59there was a broken bamboo tine at the bottom because they
- 18:03hadn't hydrated the whisks. So just like baseline, like
- 18:08preparation and staff training could have gone a long way.
- 18:13And this measurement theater was very concerning too.
- 18:16It's like you have all these tools and they're not being
- 18:18used. It's just clearly a staff
- 18:20training problem. Yeah, yeah.
- 18:22And you know, honestly, it's not just them, right?
- 18:25Like it's quite ubiquitous, you know, from places to places, not
- 18:29just in London either. You see this kind of treatment
- 18:32of matcha in many, many other cafes, which is also interesting
- 18:36because, you know, unlike coffee, you have a lot of these
- 18:40books and videos that people can reference, can, you know, easily
- 18:44train their Staffs to give a pretty decent quality coffee
- 18:49preparation. You don't quite see that in
- 18:51matcha yet. You see a lot of these handbooks
- 18:54telling you how to prepare matcha ceremonially, but very
- 18:57rarely that you run across any reading material or educational
- 19:02material telling you how to prepare matcha for a high volume
- 19:05cafe. Yes and no.
- 19:07I mean, the steps are not that complicated.
- 19:11Like most people should know how to use a scale.
- 19:15Like we're not talking about a very sophisticated form of
- 19:18preparation. Dialing in an espresso machine,
- 19:21that's complicated. Making sure you don't have
- 19:24channeling, making sure you're looking at volume in and volume
- 19:27out, doing all and making sure you're like depending on the
- 19:30humidity of the day and how you dial in the amount of coffee
- 19:34that you're using. That's complicated.
- 19:37This is, I mean, we're talking about sifting a powder, making
- 19:40sure you get 2G and then making sure the water temperature is
- 19:43appropriate and you're using the right amount of water and then
- 19:46whisking it. It does not require masterful
- 19:50skill or technique just to get its baseline quality.
- 19:54That is true. That is true.
- 19:55It's the I think the base. The fundamental problem of this
- 20:01is not caring. It's not caring.
- 20:04I think everyone who says that there's not enough much
- 20:06education, which is us sometimes, but to get we're
- 20:10usually referencing like like really high quality product, but
- 20:14like just to get baseline quality.
- 20:17There's no excuses other than not caring.
- 20:19Like that does exist on the Internet chat.
- 20:22GTP could tell you how to get baseline quality.
- 20:25It's a little pathetic. Yeah.
- 20:28Well, GTP sense that a higher standard usually, yeah.
- 20:32But it was very concerning. And then there was this weird
- 20:35use of these vibrating whisking things.
- 20:37Very interesting. It actually does produce pretty
- 20:39good foam as I was watching it, but boy, it makes a mess.
- 20:43And like they were cleaning it. It was so disgusting.
- 20:46The place that I went to that was using one of these, all of
- 20:49their macho was in this gigantic bowl that wasn't covered,
- 20:53exposed to light and air. Granted, this was a high volume
- 20:56place, so they probably go through that bowl in two hours,
- 21:00but it's still kind of was a mess everywhere.
- 21:03They take scoops, they do measure it and they create large
- 21:06batches of matcha and then they use this electric frother and it
- 21:11just gets everywhere. This matcha station was a mess
- 21:15and green and the whisk then gets dunked into a cup of what
- 21:20was once water, but it's basically now in Usacha.
- 21:24Based on the number of times they have cleaned it off, they
- 21:27it into this cup of Usicha, which is now Usicha, take it
- 21:31out. It's still covered in green.
- 21:33And then they set it down. And then I was watching them
- 21:36measure it out into the lattes and they didn't give a
- 21:39consistent dose. Some people got, you know,
- 21:42certain. I forget what that number was.
- 21:45Let's say it was 10 grams of the syrup and the next person got
- 21:4812, the next person got 9. And you could just visibly tell
- 21:52how little care. I can understand if you're off
- 21:55by a little bit, but the person behind the counter so obviously
- 21:59didn't care and really didn't know what they were doing and
- 22:02had a mess of a station. And actually she looked
- 22:05overwhelmed to be honest. Didn't look like she was trained
- 22:08very well. She wasn't given tools that
- 22:12worked very well, and the workflow sucked and there was no
- 22:16time for her to clean the station.
- 22:18So I think this operation was kind of set up to fail by the
- 22:22very design of it, yeah. You know, there's still a lot of
- 22:25arts and science into that, like how modern Cafe can optimize
- 22:30their workflow and station design and tools to cope with
- 22:35high volume consumers. And you don't necessarily, again
- 22:39back to my previous statement, you don't have a lot of
- 22:42materials to reference how to do it well exactly.
- 22:45Or someone you can copy. I mean, the beauty of specialty
- 22:48coffee is you had Blue Bottle, you had Stumptown, you had
- 22:51counterculture, you had intelligentsia, you had the
- 22:54early multi roaster cafes and everyone can just copy each
- 22:59other. It's like the dining industry.
- 23:01If you listen to fine dining and the pinnacles of dining and like
- 23:05the Michelin status restaurants, they go eat at each other's
- 23:09restaurants and they get inspired, right?
- 23:11Part of the reason why 1111 Madison Park improved their
- 23:15coffee and tea program is because they had a dinner per SE
- 23:19and had a fantastic dinner and then at the end of the meal they
- 23:22had a pretty mediocre cup of coffee and they thought to
- 23:25themselves, wow, everything about this is world class except
- 23:29the coffee. And then that inspired them to
- 23:31do a coffee probe. You have all this cross
- 23:32pollination of understanding what other people are doing
- 23:35really well or really poorly and then improving on.
- 23:38I think we need a copy culture in matcha where these places go
- 23:42around. I mean, really, everyone just
- 23:43needs to take a trip to Bangkok or to Thailand, really be to
- 23:47learn what's going on, to see the matcha scene in that part of
- 23:50the world and then copy them, bring it back.
- 23:53Like this stuff isn't precious. Like recipes shouldn't be
- 23:57precious, ratios shouldn't be precious, workflow shouldn't be
- 24:01precious. Let's go to who's doing this
- 24:04well and copy it for the love of God.
- 24:06It's embarrassing. And I can understand this
- 24:09quality standard at a coffee shop that might not know any
- 24:14better, but at a specialty matcha cafe where it's the only
- 24:18thing they're serving, it's unacceptable.
- 24:21Like it's ununderstandable. I don't understand it how the
- 24:25quality standard can be that low and the staff training can be
- 24:29that bad and how the workflows can be that bad and everyone's
- 24:32interested in respecting tradition tea ceremony and using
- 24:37a whisk and using a bowl and whisking everything to order.
- 24:40Do you know what they should copy from Chano Yu?
- 24:42The concept of working clean. There's this concept of working
- 24:46clean in cafes. James Freeman recently put out a
- 24:49post about it, the founder of Blue Bottle on his personal
- 24:52account, talking about their the first time they opened a cafe in
- 24:56Japan in Kyoto or in Tokyo, excuse me, And they served, I
- 25:00forget how many hundreds of people that day.
- 25:03They had news helicopters. It was a big deal when this Blue
- 25:06Bottle opened in Tokyo and tons of press came and they were just
- 25:11working nonstop all day, endless line.
- 25:14I think some people wait. Someone waited overnight to be
- 25:17like the first person in line at this Blue Bottle opening.
- 25:21Do you know how long it took them to clean up at the end of
- 25:24their service? Yeah, it was like 15 or 20
- 25:27minutes, Yeah. It was 20 minutes.
- 25:29That's crazy. Imagine serving hundreds of
- 25:32people and it takes you 20 minutes to end the day.
- 25:36And the reason that they did it is because they worked clean.
- 25:39You don't have a big mess everywhere like it's crazy.
- 25:44And that's what we should copy from Chaniyu.
- 25:46Chaniyu has cleaning procedures baked in.
- 25:49They not only do you pre heat your bowl, you pre clean your
- 25:52bowl in front of the person you're serving it to.
- 25:55And there's a special white piece of linen that's part of
- 25:58the tea ceremony that every tea ceremony student learns where
- 26:01you pre wash the bowl. It's a pre wet piece of linen to
- 26:06pre wash it, to rinse the rim, to make sure anyone that was
- 26:10drinking from that bowl before that the rim is clean, that the
- 26:13bottom is clean and then like you drink from it and then they
- 26:16clean it at the end. It's actually a huge part of
- 26:19what a temi or the procedure of making matcha even is in the
- 26:23traditional way and showing that type of intentionality.
- 26:27And not only that, here's another thing that can copy from
- 26:29T ceremony, inspecting the whisk.
- 26:32There is a motion where you inspect the whisk before and
- 26:37after you prepare the bowl of tea to make sure that you didn't
- 26:41accidentally serve someone a little piece of bamboo for them
- 26:44to choke on. There's all of these pieces of
- 26:47intentionality that that we should be copying the spirit of
- 26:51tea ceremony in this manner, like working clean and making
- 26:55sure you're not giving someone a piece of bamboo and not the form
- 26:59of tea ceremony which everyone's focused on.
- 27:01I totally agree you know, on the other hand Ryan, we we should
- 27:04probably not even copying the idea of how clean was being done
- 27:09in China. U either like it's probably very
- 27:12unrealistic to do all of those procedures in a high volume
- 27:16cafe. I think what the current
- 27:18specialty matcha industry is suffering is a lack of
- 27:22infrastructure, lack of tools that can support the spirit of
- 27:26working clean while maintaining the efficiency.
- 27:29Then speed cleaning a matcha ball or like inspecting a macho
- 27:36whisk that will break all the time.
- 27:38I think that's just unrealistic for a high volume matcha cafe.
- 27:42There should be tools that just don't break all the time.
- 27:45There should be pairs or equipments that don't need that
- 27:50amount of carrying, you know, from day-to-day basis.
- 27:54Like the whole idea of working clean needs to be baked into the
- 27:59very fundamental tool designed and workflow designed from the
- 28:03very beginning. And I think that's what the
- 28:05current specialty matcha industry is really suffering
- 28:09from implying this, you know, high standard onto like
- 28:13operating a mixed drink store in London, I think might be a
- 28:17little bit too too, too high because she probably won't don't
- 28:20even know how to improve the current workflow or how to
- 28:25procure any better tools to cope with the difficulties that she's
- 28:29running into every day. Yeah, potentially.
- 28:31But I mean, even with the existing tools, I think that the
- 28:35level of quality preparation and inconsistency and the lack of
- 28:39ability to operate in a way where you're getting exacting
- 28:43standards can be done with existing tools and with DIY.
- 28:47You know, let's not be too self promotional in this podcast.
- 28:50I mean, we're working on that infrastructure too.
- 28:53But I think even with what exists now, you're able to have
- 28:57very good workflows and even very good workflows in high
- 29:00velocity environments. I think it is possible.
- 29:03We do see it in Southeast Asia where they are able to do it and
- 29:06to work clean that way meant to work efficiently and with
- 29:09exacting standards where, you know, you're not getting
- 29:12significant variation drink to drink.
- 29:14Look at Oheka. Oheka because a high volume cafe
- 29:17or kettle, I mean everything's sifted, measured, whisked to
- 29:21order on a, on a scale with a variable temperature kettle.
- 29:24And so I mean there are people who are, and I'm sure there's
- 29:27many others who are not even aware of that are doing things
- 29:30to very exacting standards. It definitely can be done.
- 29:33I think the call to action is these matcha businesses or cafes
- 29:37doing matcha programs need to go out and experience it first hand
- 29:41at people and places that are doing it very well and just
- 29:44copying it. Yeah.
- 29:46That will be a more exciting future for Matcha.
- 29:49And also a lot of the times consumer, consumers don't know
- 29:53better. They are already liking the
- 29:55products that are being served today and there's a very little
- 29:59push from the consumer and for cafes to improve.
- 30:02And I think for more experienced consumer in the future, the pull
- 30:06and push dynamic will be more, more intense and we can have,
- 30:12you know, more kind of motivation coming from the
- 30:15consumer and to push cafes to improve their workflow and their
- 30:19product quality. Yeah.
- 30:21Well, now, right now all the much of businesses have a great
- 30:24gift. Much is booming.
- 30:25There's a much of shortage so much as in the news like you
- 30:29know these places, there's very few of them and they have long
- 30:33lines. But that's not going to be that
- 30:35way forever. The economic opportunity of
- 30:37starting a matcha business is very obvious at the moment and
- 30:41just be by the fact that you have matcha and are serving
- 30:44matcha or a matcha specialty place will one day be not unique
- 30:49and special on its own. There's going to be more
- 30:52competition and the places that will win in the long term I
- 30:55think are places where the intentionality is clear, the
- 30:58price is fair and the quality is consistent.
- 31:02Just like any good business out there that has very good staff
- 31:05training, at some point it's just going to be unacceptable
- 31:09for these places to exist at the way that they do.
- 31:12I think so. I agree that it's not there and
- 31:15there's not consumer demand for this type of perfection yet.
- 31:19But the consumers will change and the competitive landscape
- 31:22will change. And the businesses that are
- 31:25going to succeed in the long run are going to do so in large part
- 31:30by improving quality. I mean, it's just sad.
- 31:33The products that I tasted were disgusting.
- 31:36And you know, these these consumers that are drinking
- 31:39lattes or sakura mixed drinks and all, all of this stuff are
- 31:44one day those people are going to form the foundations of the
- 31:48people who want to have an usucha or a quartz kocha or a
- 31:51light brew or an Americano style beverage or interested in
- 31:55competition grade tea or single cultivar, single origin tea.
- 31:58Like Brian from Machu Matcha who we had on as a guest.
- 32:02He started with matcha pastries and matcha lattes full of sugar
- 32:05and milk. What he said in the recording,
- 32:07you know, now he started one of the most prolific high quality
- 32:10matcha companies in Singapore. These people who are waiting in
- 32:14line 30 minutes for a matcha latte are the foundations of
- 32:17this specialty market. We don't know who they are or
- 32:20exactly from an individual standpoint, but they are going
- 32:23to form this foundation who will care about quality.
- 32:26Totally great. So I think one call to action
- 32:29from this episode is that I think every Matcha cafe that
- 32:33serves an Americano or matcha with just water or whatever they
- 32:36call it comes by different names.
- 32:38Some just called it matcha, some called it matcha tea, some
- 32:40called it matcha americano on their menu.
- 32:43I know MTCH calls it a light brew.
- 32:45Anyone who's serving this type of thing, baseline should be
- 32:48proud to serve what they're serving.
- 32:50I think it's a pretty good action standard for any
- 32:55specialty matcha cafe out there. In getting the matcha not being
- 33:00bad, we asked ourselves in the previous recording, in the
- 33:03previous recording on this topic, why is all the matcha so
- 33:06bad? I think the matcha will be of
- 33:08acceptable quality when the matcha Americano can taste good.
- 33:13I think it's a pretty easy action standard.
- 33:16And the other thing is I think there just needs to be better
- 33:18staff training and better staff training.
- 33:21Not in like being told what to do, like not treating your staff
- 33:25like they're stupid and give them a list of instructions and
- 33:29say follow this exactly, but lead with context.
- 33:33How can we give everyone the first principles to understand
- 33:37why does matcha clump and how do you make it not clump?
- 33:40Why does water temperature matter?
- 33:43How is foam formed? And we give everyone the
- 33:48foundational knowledge to understand the mechanisms that
- 33:51lead to a higher quality product.
- 33:54And I think my suspicion is a lot of these places give
- 33:57employees a list. They treat them like they're
- 33:59stupid. They say you follow this list.
- 34:02I came up with this procedure and they're not armed with the
- 34:05foundations to create a better product with that type of
- 34:08knowledge. Yeah, totally agree.
- 34:10Like probably on the list, one of the cafes that you have been
- 34:13to says take two scoops of matcha into the bowl, but didn't
- 34:17really, you know, convey the message that, you know, what
- 34:21exactly should two scoops wait? It's just two scoops.
- 34:26Yeah. And I think, you know, a lot of
- 34:28these guidelines, you know, you probably need to have the staff
- 34:33to understand the fundamental reason why the, the guideline is
- 34:38there, the, the, the operation is there, instead of, you know,
- 34:42just springlessly training them or telling them, you know, this
- 34:45is the exact order that you should follow.
- 34:47Yeah. I mean, and it's not rocket
- 34:49science either. I mean, I could do this in like
- 34:52a couple minutes. Like here would be my very
- 34:54impromptu education to someone who knows nothing about matcha,
- 34:58who's going to be preparing at a cafe for the first time.
- 35:01I'd say matcha is an extremely delicate product.
- 35:04This is actually powdered tea leaf.
- 35:06This is not something that dissolves like instant coffee or
- 35:09like Tang or like liquid IV. So because of that, you need to
- 35:13think of it much more like flour than you would like, mixing up
- 35:17powder together like you would in a beverage normally.
- 35:20Just like if you're making pancakes and you add way too
- 35:22much water too fast and you're mixing it and get very clumpy.
- 35:26Matcha is exactly the same. Because we're not actually
- 35:29dissolving the matcha, it forms a suspension in water, which
- 35:33means that these particles are mixed in with the hot water.
- 35:36So that means 1. You need to save it either in a
- 35:38batch prior to service or you can sift it to order, but it
- 35:42needs to be pre sifted so it doesn't clump.
- 35:44And then you need to really whisk it well.
- 35:47But be careful. This bamboo Chasen is extremely
- 35:50delicate. This bamboo is fragile when it's
- 35:53dry and because bamboo is fragile when it's dry and these
- 35:57tines are so small, this has to stay hydrated.
- 36:00So hydrate it, give it, just run it under the sink for a second
- 36:04before you and then wait a couple of minutes.
- 36:06And then you can use this whisk, whisk it very vigorously.
- 36:11But this is still a fragile instrument, so try not to scrape
- 36:14the bottom too hard. Be gentle with this whisk,
- 36:17whisk, whisk. And then what you're doing is
- 36:20you're incorporating air to create foam, which is also an
- 36:23important part of the sensory experience.
- 36:25And when you do this, please use the right temperature Water
- 36:28Matcha has an unusually high number of a compound called
- 36:32catechins. Catechins taste very bitter,
- 36:35very astringent, and they will readily extract past 80°C
- 36:39Celsius. So make sure your water
- 36:42temperature is between 70 and 75, otherwise you're going to
- 36:45bring out a lot of bitterness in this tea because matcha is not
- 36:48like other types of tea. It has a very unusual number of
- 36:51these bitter compounds which will stay locked in the leaf so
- 36:55long as we keep the water temperature low enough and we're
- 36:57only extracting the good flavors.
- 37:01There you go, right? Pretty well encapsulate the
- 37:03first principles that you need to know to create baseline
- 37:07decent matcha. Yeah.
- 37:09And maybe a little bit more on matcha storage.
- 37:12And I think that would be a perfect handbook.
- 37:15Yeah, exactly. Yeah, storage too.
- 37:17Matcha is very sensitive to light.
- 37:18It contains a lot of chlorophyll.
- 37:20When chlorophyll is exposed to UV and to light, it degrades
- 37:25into a yellow compound, which tastes very bitter.
- 37:29So we're taking this very precious green stuff, and when
- 37:32it gets exposed to the sun and to the air, it's going to turn
- 37:35from green to brown. And not only does the color
- 37:38degrade, but the taste will degrade too.
- 37:40So you need to make sure you keep the sealed and the
- 37:43refrigerator, or if not in the refrigerator than in a sealed
- 37:46opaque container. If everyone could just listen to
- 37:49that 5 minutes and implement that and incorporate it into
- 37:53their staff training, everyone would be drinking much higher
- 37:56quality matcha. Totally agree.
- 37:58It's really not rocket sign. The amount of procedures
- 38:02required probably is even less than using a Chemex to brew
- 38:07coffee. Yeah.
- 38:07Probably, and by the way, anyone listening who has a cafe or has
- 38:11a friend that has a cafe, we offer free consulting services.
- 38:16I don't know how long we will do it for depending on demand, but
- 38:20anyone who just like wins basic seminar on matcha, what is it?
- 38:25How do you prepare it? What are common mistakes to
- 38:27avoid? We do this for free so please
- 38:30talk to us. It's actually our way of kind of
- 38:31doing user testing too and to perfect our own training
- 38:35materials for the future. So if anyone's interested in
- 38:38that, we're happy to do it no matter where you are in the
- 38:41world or for your clients for that matter, and happy to share
- 38:45our educational materials as well.
- 38:47We think that this should not be precious or gate kept in any
- 38:50way. So we're we're happy to do it.
- 38:52And same thing with baseline staff training for how to answer
- 38:56questions like what is matcha? Where is it from?
- 38:59Why is it so expensive? What makes this matcha better
- 39:02than this other matcha so that like staff are able to have
- 39:05educated come in with confidence.
- 39:08When I asked where is this matcha from and no one gave me a
- 39:10confident answer or they had to like ask someone else.
- 39:13Like it doesn't send a good sign, especially if you're a
- 39:17matcha specialty place. It's crazy.
- 39:21So that's not the world that we would like to see.
- 39:23In the spirit of giving first, we're very happy to help anyone
- 39:27that wants any help with this and to share educational
- 39:29materials that we have and that we are creating.
- 39:32This is a good place to end. Yeah, I think this is a good
- 39:35place to end. So really back to the basics I
- 39:39think is what's required to improve matcha quality all over
- 39:42the world and that staff education is super important.
- 39:46We need to improve baseline product quality where people are
- 39:49just buying better matcha because garbage in, garbage out.
- 39:52We need to improve preparation techniques.
- 39:55So we need to do away with measurement theater for using
- 39:58these tools. Please use them actually.
- 40:00And we also need to improve matcha storage.
- 40:03And the last thing that I wrote that we didn't.
- 40:05To talk about is dosing, which we've talked about before, but a
- 40:08lot of the drinks that I have, especially in latte format were
- 40:11way too weak. Matcha felt like it was
- 40:13primarily being used as a colorant.
- 40:15That's like something you were actually tasting.
- 40:17So I think places need to to dose a bit higher so that you
- 40:21can actually taste the product. Or if you're not dosing higher,
- 40:24don't serve like a 16 ounce beverage and with 2G of matcha
- 40:28in a latte format, you won't taste it.
- 40:31Like force someone to have significantly less volume so you
- 40:35can actually taste it. It's something I've noticed that
- 40:37all the best matcha latte places do.
- 40:39You're not served this gigantic drink, right?
- 40:43You're served much smaller, much more concentrated drinks where
- 40:46you can actually taste it. Even though it might not be what
- 40:49consumers are specifically asking for, but protecting the
- 40:53integrity of the product, they might come around to actually
- 40:57appreciating that more. Totally agree.
- 40:59And also I would like to add that we need to do our part as
- 41:03well, Ryan, supplying the world with better tools and
- 41:07infrastructure. And other companies too, working
- 41:10on much equipment. Yeah, this is not just us.
- 41:15There's definitely an infrastructure gap and needs the
- 41:18creativity of everyone around the world who notice different
- 41:20problems or in different cultures or for different
- 41:23problems. Spaces not the same.
- 41:25Matcha equipment is not meant for all types of businesses.
- 41:28Some places need to make a matcha drink in 20 seconds or 30
- 41:32seconds to be profitable. Different businesses require
- 41:35different solutions as well. Absolutely, but all in the
- 41:38service of better matcha. So anyway, if you enjoyed this
- 41:42episode, please consider sharing with friends or giving it five
- 41:45stars and whatever you're listening to.
- 41:47And demand better matcha from businesses.
- 41:50Yeah, in the next episode. See you in the next episode.
- 41:53Bye.