Latest / Aztec Ruins National Monument, New Mexico / 009 - The Aztec Ruins Today
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- 0:00Speaker 1: Section eight of Aztec Ruins National Monument, New Mexico. This
- 0:05Speaker 1: is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the
- 0:09Speaker 1: public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit
- 0:13Speaker 1: LibriVox dot org. Read by Prettipah Aztec Ruins National Monument,
- 0:18Speaker 1: New Mexico by John M. Corbett. The Aztec Ruins to
- 0:23Speaker 1: day Aztec Ruins National Monument consists of an enclosed area
- 0:29Speaker 1: of twenty seven acres containing six major archaeological complexes of
- 0:34Speaker 1: rooms and structures, and at least seven or eight small
- 0:37Speaker 1: amounts which may contain structures or may simply be trash
- 0:41Speaker 1: and refuse mounts from the larger occupation zones. Two of
- 0:45Speaker 1: these major complexes have been excavated, the West Ruin and
- 0:49Speaker 1: the Hubbard Mound. Two of the others, the East Ruin
- 0:52Speaker 1: and Mount F, have been tested. Mount F is evidently
- 0:56Speaker 1: very similar to the Hubbard Mound. The Xtruin, if excavated,
- 1:01Speaker 1: might be similar in most respects to the West Ruin,
- 1:04Speaker 1: both in appearance and time of occupation. As to whether
- 1:08Speaker 1: the smallermounds contain trash or house remains, only thorough archaeological
- 1:12Speaker 1: investigations can tell Morris's diggings, and subsequent small tests have
- 1:17Speaker 1: indicated there may be earlier developmental poeblo remains underlying the
- 1:22Speaker 1: main prehistoric complexes. Also, such remains might still be found
- 1:27Speaker 1: under the wind blown sand in the flatter areas between
- 1:30Speaker 1: the major ruins. No real archaeological work has ever been
- 1:34Speaker 1: done in the monument area to determine the possible extent
- 1:37Speaker 1: of such earlier remains. The two main sites seen by
- 1:41Speaker 1: the visitor to the monument are therefore the West Ruin
- 1:45Speaker 1: and the Hubbard Mound. The West Ruin was the one
- 1:48Speaker 1: first entered by early settlers in the late nineteenth century.
- 1:51Speaker 1: The profuse remains caused extensive digging and looting for about
- 1:55Speaker 1: a decade. Then, under the ownership first of John R.
- 1:59Speaker 1: Kuhn's and later of HD Abrams, the area was given
- 2:02Speaker 1: a certain amount of protection. During nineteen sixty to twenty one,
- 2:06Speaker 1: the American Museum of Natural History excavated extensively in the
- 2:10Speaker 1: West Ruin under the guidance of Morris. To day, three
- 2:14Speaker 1: forts of this ruin has been excavated, cleared, and stabilized
- 2:18Speaker 1: so that you may gain a first hand impression of
- 2:20Speaker 1: its original appearance. The remaining one fourth is largely unexcavated,
- 2:26Speaker 1: and for all anyone knows, may contain archaeological riches equal
- 2:30Speaker 1: to any recovered in the early days or during the
- 2:32Speaker 1: excavations by the American Museum of Natural History. Although some
- 2:36Speaker 1: of the rooms and walls seen by the first white
- 2:39Speaker 1: settlers in the valley have now collapsed, evidence of at
- 2:42Speaker 1: least three stories is still clearly visible in several places
- 2:45Speaker 1: in the ruin. The main part consists of three sides
- 2:49Speaker 1: of a rectangle, with a slightly bowing outer wall on
- 2:52Speaker 1: the fourth side composed of single rooms, which seals off
- 2:56Speaker 1: the central plaza. The only entrance into the pueblo was
- 3:00Speaker 1: the one along the path by which visitors enter the ruin.
- 3:03Speaker 1: To day, the poeblow was built of yellowish brown and
- 3:07Speaker 1: tanned sandstone blocks, most of them shaped into rectangles by
- 3:11Speaker 1: pecking or grinding to support the weight of the upper rooms.
- 3:15Speaker 1: The lower walls are much thicker and are composed of
- 3:18Speaker 1: rubble fill with an outer veneer wall of the better
- 3:21Speaker 1: shaped rectangular blocks. In many places, the spaces between them
- 3:25Speaker 1: are filled with small chinking stones set in adobe mud.
- 3:30Speaker 1: Sometimes broken pieces of pottery vessels were used for spalls. Originally,
- 3:35Speaker 1: the walls were plastered with layers of adobe, most of
- 3:38Speaker 1: which unfortunately have eroded away. One unusual feature in the
- 3:42Speaker 1: west ruin consists of two very fine bands of green
- 3:45Speaker 1: sandstone blocks which extend horizontally along the west outer wall
- 3:49Speaker 1: of the pueblo and into a few of the interior
- 3:52Speaker 1: rooms of the southwest corner. There are indications in a
- 3:55Speaker 1: few places that originally there may have been three such
- 3:58Speaker 1: parallel bands. The north and northwest sides of the ruin
- 4:02Speaker 1: contained the most extensive building remains. The highest walls and
- 4:06Speaker 1: best construction still exist there, and one can see evidence
- 4:09Speaker 1: of at least three stories. Also in the north portion,
- 4:13Speaker 1: along the extreme back row of rooms at the ground level,
- 4:16Speaker 1: there is a series of seven rooms, each of which
- 4:19Speaker 1: has its original ceiling intact. These seven were the first
- 4:23Speaker 1: entered by early relic hunters, who found most of the
- 4:26Speaker 1: original doorways to the south sealed up, and who broke
- 4:29Speaker 1: through the walls of each room in an easterly direction.
- 4:33Speaker 1: These breeches in the walls have been repaired but left open,
- 4:36Speaker 1: so that to day you can go from one room
- 4:38Speaker 1: to the next along the path taken by the early explorers,
- 4:42Speaker 1: rather than through the doorways used by the Indians from
- 4:45Speaker 1: the plaza. The Indians gained access to these northwestern rooms
- 4:48Speaker 1: by entering the west side rooms, then turning at right angles,
- 4:52Speaker 1: they proceeded northward through the doorways and rooms until they
- 4:56Speaker 1: reached the final row of rooms at the north Although
- 4:59Speaker 1: not all are open to the public because of their
- 5:01Speaker 1: difficulty of access, there are nineteen rooms in the ruin
- 5:04Speaker 1: which still have their original ceilings intact. In making a ceiling,
- 5:09Speaker 1: the Indians used two or more main stringers, that is,
- 5:12Speaker 1: large beams of pine or juniper, which they set into
- 5:15Speaker 1: the walls of the room at a height of eight
- 5:17Speaker 1: or nine feet. Traversing the shorter dimension of the room,
- 5:21Speaker 1: running at right angles to the stringers, they placed cottonwood
- 5:25Speaker 1: poles or splints of juniper, and over these reeds, rushes
- 5:29Speaker 1: or woven matting. Upon this they put adobe mud, which
- 5:33Speaker 1: was well packed to make a firm roof, or, if
- 5:35Speaker 1: there was to be another room above it, a stout floor.
- 5:39Speaker 1: Since the entire ruin has not been excavated, it is
- 5:42Speaker 1: possible there may be more rooms with ceilings intact, or
- 5:45Speaker 1: others in which, although the ceilings have collapsed, the first
- 5:48Speaker 1: floor walls and part of the second remain As far
- 5:51Speaker 1: as we can tell from the excavated rooms and from
- 5:54Speaker 1: the surface evidence, there are two hundred and twenty one
- 5:57Speaker 1: first story rooms. There are interiors of one hundred and
- 6:01Speaker 1: nineteen second story rooms, and at least twelve third story rooms.
- 6:05Speaker 1: When originally inhabited, there were many more than the three
- 6:08Speaker 1: hundred and fifty two rooms that we can count today. Generally,
- 6:12Speaker 1: access from one room to another was by doorways that
- 6:15Speaker 1: led from the back or side portions of the pueblo
- 6:18Speaker 1: out toward the central plaza. However, several rooms also had
- 6:22Speaker 1: lateral doorways, many of which had at one time been
- 6:25Speaker 1: sealed up, either by the first inhabitants or by the
- 6:28Speaker 1: second group. When burials were made in a room, it
- 6:32Speaker 1: must have been necessary to seal all the doorways, unless
- 6:35Speaker 1: the bodies were placed in subfloor pits or covered with
- 6:38Speaker 1: dirt or debris. Among the second story rooms in the
- 6:41Speaker 1: northeastern section are four special doorways, each placed in the
- 6:45Speaker 1: corner of a room so that it connects with the
- 6:48Speaker 1: adjoining diagonal room. As far as we know, corner doorways
- 6:52Speaker 1: occur only in second story rooms, with the possible exception
- 6:55Speaker 1: of the double doorway mentioned below. One corner doorway leads
- 6:59Speaker 1: into a room that had four normal doorways, one in
- 7:02Speaker 1: each side. We do not know if this room had
- 7:04Speaker 1: a special function, but it was the most accessible in
- 7:07Speaker 1: the entire Poe Blow. One corner doorway is possibly unique
- 7:12Speaker 1: in the entire southwest. Beneath it is a second and
- 7:15Speaker 1: much smaller one, which led from the second floor level
- 7:18Speaker 1: into a first floor room which could be entered only
- 7:21Speaker 1: by this means. Although there is a step arrangement in
- 7:24Speaker 1: this lower doorway, it is so small and its roof
- 7:27Speaker 1: is so low that it must have been a matter
- 7:29Speaker 1: of crawling rather than walking through it. This doorway enters
- 7:33Speaker 1: the lower room so high in the wall that it
- 7:35Speaker 1: would also have been necessary to have a ladder inside
- 7:38Speaker 1: the room to enter or leave it. In addition to doorways,
- 7:42Speaker 1: many rooms, especially toward the back or sides of the
- 7:45Speaker 1: Poe Blow and in the lower tiers, had one or
- 7:47Speaker 1: two openings about a foot square high in the back wall.
- 7:51Speaker 1: These are above the height of an average man even today,
- 7:54Speaker 1: and could not have served as view halls or windows
- 7:56Speaker 1: for the Indians. They must have been put there for ventilation.
- 8:00Speaker 1: There are a few other openings in some walls which
- 8:03Speaker 1: are not as large as the average doorway or as
- 8:05Speaker 1: small as the ventilators. Usually these are placed at a
- 8:08Speaker 1: medium height in the room and could well have served
- 8:11Speaker 1: as windows to allow a view from one room to another.
- 8:15Speaker 1: None of these so called windows, however, opens to the
- 8:17Speaker 1: rear or sides of the pueblo, nor is any known
- 8:21Speaker 1: that opens onto the plaza in front. Not counting the
- 8:25Speaker 1: great kiva which bulks so large in the plaza, excavations
- 8:29Speaker 1: have revealed at least twenty nine other kivas or ceremonial chambers. Several,
- 8:34Speaker 1: especially in the southeast corner, underlie the main structure and
- 8:38Speaker 1: may represent kivas from the earlier or developmental Pueblo period.
- 8:43Speaker 1: Besides the cluster of small kivas around the southeastern corner,
- 8:47Speaker 1: there is a second grouping of larger kivas among the
- 8:50Speaker 1: rooms in the northeast corner and out into the northeastern
- 8:53Speaker 1: part of the plaza, where a rather large Chaco type
- 8:57Speaker 1: kiva is located. A third cluster composed of smaller mesa
- 9:02Speaker 1: Verde type keyhole kivas, is located near the southwestern corner
- 9:06Speaker 1: of the pueblo, and Morris found scattered remains of one
- 9:09Speaker 1: or two other kivas toward the front of the southwestern part.
- 9:13Speaker 1: The Great Kiva, or House of the Great Kiva, as
- 9:16Speaker 1: Morris called it, is centrally located in the south side
- 9:19Speaker 1: of the plaza. It is essentially circular in form and
- 9:23Speaker 1: has two distinct parts. The inner part the Kiva Proper,
- 9:27Speaker 1: has a floor about eight feet below the surface at
- 9:30Speaker 1: ground level, and surrounding this inner section is an outer
- 9:34Speaker 1: circle of fourteen arc shaped rooms. Twelve of these are
- 9:38Speaker 1: essentially similar, but the other two are markedly different. One
- 9:42Speaker 1: is merely an open passage about three and a half
- 9:44Speaker 1: feet wide, which leads directly from the plaza to the
- 9:48Speaker 1: head of the south stairway. The other is a large
- 9:51Speaker 1: rectangular alcove like structure on the north side of the
- 9:54Speaker 1: Kiva Proper, with the stairway leading up into it from
- 9:58Speaker 1: the Kiva floor. On the north and west sides of
- 10:01Speaker 1: this alcove there is a low bench like structure around
- 10:04Speaker 1: the inner wall, and on the south side are water
- 10:07Speaker 1: appear to be a piece of a wall and two
- 10:09Speaker 1: rectangular masonry blocks. Toward the center back portion of the
- 10:13Speaker 1: alcove is another low, square masonry structure, which may have
- 10:17Speaker 1: been an altar. When excavated, this latter structure had burnt
- 10:22Speaker 1: poles embedded in the north side, as though it once
- 10:24Speaker 1: had a small roof or some kind of entablature over it.
- 10:29Speaker 1: The kiva proper is forty one feet three and a
- 10:31Speaker 1: half inches wide at floor level and forty eight feet
- 10:35Speaker 1: three and a half inches wide at a height of
- 10:37Speaker 1: three feet above the floor. This difference is caused by
- 10:41Speaker 1: two benches or concentric rings, which completely encircle the kiva base.
- 10:46Speaker 1: At the north end, three masonry steps led to the
- 10:49Speaker 1: second bench, which at this point formed a fourth step
- 10:52Speaker 1: in the stairway leading to the alcove. Above this, another
- 10:55Speaker 1: masonry step was surmounted by five sets of double juniper
- 10:59Speaker 1: logs set in the sides of a recess with an
- 11:02Speaker 1: average rise of nine and a half inches each. These
- 11:05Speaker 1: logs formed the final steps leading from the kiva floor
- 11:09Speaker 1: into the north alcove. Originally there had also been a
- 11:12Speaker 1: stairway on the south side leading to the small exit
- 11:15Speaker 1: at that point. Some time while the kiva was in use,
- 11:18Speaker 1: these stairs had been eliminated. The two benches had been
- 11:21Speaker 1: filled in smoothly at that point, and the recess above
- 11:24Speaker 1: had been partially closed. The modern wooden stairways at both
- 11:28Speaker 1: these points have been placed there by the National Park
- 11:31Speaker 1: Service for the convenience of visitors. On the floor of
- 11:35Speaker 1: the Kiva are remains of the central altar or fire pit,
- 11:38Speaker 1: flanked on either side by two large rectangular stone lined pits,
- 11:42Speaker 1: the bottoms of which are well below the kiva floor.
- 11:45Speaker 1: These pits, often referred to as foot drums, may have
- 11:48Speaker 1: served at other times as hiding places for the shamans
- 11:51Speaker 1: or medicine men who performed magical rites during ceremonies. Surrounding
- 11:56Speaker 1: the Kiva at ground level are twelve similar arc shaped
- 12:00Speaker 1: chambers of varying dimensions, which represent components of the building
- 12:04Speaker 1: as last used sometime during one or another of the
- 12:07Speaker 1: several alterations made by the Indians on the Great Kiva.
- 12:10Speaker 1: Every door from the plaza into these peripheral chambers was
- 12:14Speaker 1: sealed with masonry. The floor of the rooms was adobe
- 12:17Speaker 1: without much sign of use, and the quantity of gypsum
- 12:20Speaker 1: found by Morris indicates they may have been painted white.
- 12:24Speaker 1: Once the outer doors were sealed. Entrance was doubtless by
- 12:27Speaker 1: way of the niched vertical stairways in front of each room,
- 12:31Speaker 1: about ten inches from the top bench. In front of
- 12:34Speaker 1: most of the alcove rooms Morris found a slot eight
- 12:37Speaker 1: and a half inches wide and eight inches deep which
- 12:40Speaker 1: continued to the top of the wall. About a foot apart.
- 12:44Speaker 1: In each niche were two round junipes sticks laid side
- 12:47Speaker 1: by side with their ends extending into the masonry. On
- 12:51Speaker 1: the east side of the kiva, the veneer facing of
- 12:54Speaker 1: the wall had fallen, and it could not be positively
- 12:57Speaker 1: determined if these alcove rooms also had similar slot stairways
- 13:01Speaker 1: in front of them. If they did not, the rooms
- 13:04Speaker 1: would have been non functional in connection with the kiva proper,
- 13:07Speaker 1: and therefore the present day restoration shows them correctly. That
- 13:11Speaker 1: the Great Kiva was originally roofed was determined by Morris's
- 13:15Speaker 1: finding the remains of four rectangular columns, counter sunk below
- 13:19Speaker 1: the level of the kiva floor and composed of alternating
- 13:22Speaker 1: courses of masonry and wooden poles. Each course of wooden
- 13:26Speaker 1: poles was laid at right angles to the alternating one below.
- 13:29Speaker 1: Each column was supported by three thick circular sandstone blocks,
- 13:33Speaker 1: evidently to prevent the weight of the columns and the
- 13:36Speaker 1: roof they supported from pressing them down into the soft
- 13:39Speaker 1: ground or spreading out the footings. In the excavation of
- 13:43Speaker 1: the kiva fill. Morris also found many pieces of charred timbers,
- 13:47Speaker 1: so that although we do not know the exact method
- 13:50Speaker 1: of roofing the kiva, one method which the Indians could
- 13:52Speaker 1: have used has been duplicated in the modernary construction. Evidently,
- 13:57Speaker 1: the kiva burned and was then abandoned. Just to the
- 14:00Speaker 1: northwest of the main ruin at Aztec is a small
- 14:03Speaker 1: tri walled ceremonial structure known as the Hubbard Site. Sixty
- 14:07Speaker 1: four feet in diameter. It consists of three concentric walls
- 14:11Speaker 1: of stone and adobe, with a small twenty four foot
- 14:14Speaker 1: circular kiva enclosed in the center. This kiva is not
- 14:17Speaker 1: directly connected with any of the tri walls. There is
- 14:20Speaker 1: a space one and a half feet wide between the
- 14:23Speaker 1: outer shell of the kiva and the inner side of
- 14:25Speaker 1: the nearest wall. There are remains of eight roof pilasters,
- 14:29Speaker 1: a central fireplace, a deflector, and a ventilator shaft in
- 14:33Speaker 1: the kiva. On the south side are openings in the
- 14:36Speaker 1: two outer walls, one directly behind the other, so that
- 14:40Speaker 1: access could have been along this passage and then up
- 14:43Speaker 1: over the roof of the kiva and down into it
- 14:45Speaker 1: through the smokehole. None of the rooms in the outer
- 14:48Speaker 1: two circles connect in any way with the Kiva. There
- 14:51Speaker 1: are seven rooms of roughly equal size within the inner circle.
- 14:54Speaker 1: An eighth room might be the one mentioned above, which
- 14:57Speaker 1: forms part of the passage leading out to the south.
- 15:01Speaker 1: These rooms do not connect with each other, and access
- 15:04Speaker 1: to each of them must have been through the roof.
- 15:06Speaker 1: In the outermost circle, there are thirteen rooms, with another
- 15:09Speaker 1: constituting the outer portion of the south passage. This is
- 15:13Speaker 1: the same number of alcoves as surrounded the Great Kiva,
- 15:16Speaker 1: except that in the latter case two were entranceways. Here
- 15:20Speaker 1: in the Hubbard Mound, there is no north alcove entranceway
- 15:23Speaker 1: as there is in the Great Kiva. In the outer
- 15:26Speaker 1: circle of rooms, the first four east of the south
- 15:29Speaker 1: entrance opened into each other through a lateral doorway, and
- 15:33Speaker 1: the next two rooms around to the northeast also opened
- 15:36Speaker 1: into each other. The following room toward the north was
- 15:39Speaker 1: self contained. Proceeding around to the west, the next five
- 15:43Speaker 1: rooms all opened on each other through lateral doorways. Finally,
- 15:48Speaker 1: on the southwest there is a single room not connected
- 15:51Speaker 1: to any other. None of the rooms in the outer
- 15:53Speaker 1: circle opened on to any In the inner circle or
- 15:56Speaker 1: to the outside, except for one doorway on the west,
- 16:00Speaker 1: which led to the series of five interconnecting rooms. The
- 16:03Speaker 1: separate rooms and the other series of connecting rooms must
- 16:06Speaker 1: have been entered through the roof. Extending southward from the
- 16:10Speaker 1: triwall structure are two massive parallel walls made of cobblestones
- 16:14Speaker 1: laid in thick mortar, and two more equally massive walls
- 16:17Speaker 1: extend westward. From these, there are scattered smaller walls, also
- 16:22Speaker 1: of cobblestones. While we do not know their original dimensions,
- 16:25Speaker 1: they suggest rectangular enclosures which may have contained house rooms
- 16:29Speaker 1: of lighter construction. The ruins contained within the Aztec Ruins
- 16:33Speaker 1: National Monument constitute a complex of prehistoric remains representative of
- 16:38Speaker 1: several different construction periods. Different groups of Indians seem to
- 16:43Speaker 1: have been involved at various times, and only further excavation
- 16:46Speaker 1: will fully clarify their relationships. End of Section eight.